
Class 

Book 

GopyrightN 



COPYRIGHT DEPOSIT. 



THE TOURIST'S NORTHWEST 





BOOKS BY 




RUTH KEDZIE WOOD, 


F.R.G.S. 


Honeymooning in Russia 




The Tourist's 


Russia 




The Tourist's 


Spain and Portugal 


The Tourist's 


California 




The Tourist's 


Maritime Provinces 


The Tourist's 


Northwest 






THE TRYST 



THE TOURIST'S 
NORTHWEST 



BY 
RUTH KEDZIE WOOD, F.R.G.S. 

Author of "The Tourist's California" "The Tourist's 
Maritime Provinces," etc. 



With Numerous Illustrations 




NEW YORK 

DODD, MEAD AND COMPANY 

1916 



F8: 

.WSf 



Copyright, 1916 
By DODD, MEAD AND COMPANY, INC. 



Made in U-. S. A. 

JUN -5 1916 
©GI.A431359 



v> 



TO 
PHILIP 



CONTENTS 



CHAPTER PAGE 

I General Information Concerning the Amer- 
ican Northwest 1 

II Hotels — Cuisine — Sports — Amusements 

and Festivals 29 

III Chronology 54 

IV Portland and its Environs 66 

V The Columbia River from Portland to Mt. 
Hood and The Dalles. Central and East- 
ern Oregon. The Columbia from Portland 
to Astoria. Pacific Beaches . . . . .87 

VI Through the Willamette and Rogue River 
Valleys to Crater Lake, with Excursions 
into the Cascades, to Pacific Beaches, the 
Josephine County Caves, the Klamath 
Basin and Lake County 127 

VII Seattle and Its Environs — The Olympic 
Peninsula — Routes Across the Cascades to 
the Columbia Basin 160 

VIII The Upper Puget Sound Country. Across 

the Cascades to Lake Chelan .... 189 

IX Lower Puget Sound. Rainier National 
Park. " The Harbor Country " and Pacific 
Beaches. The Columbia River .... 210 

X Eastern Washington. The Idaho Lakes . 243 

XI Glacier National Park 267 

XII General Information Concerning the Can- 
adian Northwest 291 



CONTENTS 



CHAPTER 

XIII Hotels — Cuisine 



Sports — Festivals 



XIV Chronology 



PAGE 

362 



XV Vancouver — Coast Excursions — Vancouver 

Island 373 

XVI Vancouver to Revelstoke by the Canadian 
Pacific, with Excursions into Southern 
British Columbia through the Okanagan, 
Arrow and Kootenay Lakes. To Macleod 
by the Crow's Nest Pass 403 

XVII Revelstoke to Calgary through the Sel- 
kirks and the rocky mountains, with an 
Excursion into the Windermere Valley . 425 

XVIII Prince Rupert, with Excursions up the 
British Columbia Coast and to Queen 
Charlotte Islands. Prince Rupert — Ed- 
monton via Jasper Park 466 

Tourist Towns and Resorts op the North- 
west . . ;.; . .. K Bi ...... 509 



ILLUSTRATIONS 

The Tryst Frontispiece 

Facing Page 
Mt. Hood and Portland, from City Park 68 



S 



The Columbia River looking from St. Peter's Dome . 80 

the Deschutes River, Centn 
Photograph by Kiser, Portland. 

ton, Oregon 116 



The Canyon of the Deschutes River, Central Oregon . 92 ^ 
The Grand Parade at the Round-up, Pendleton, Oregon 116 i 



Wallowa Lake, Eastern Oregon 130 

Photograph by Prank Palmer, Spokane. 

"The Chapel," Josephine County Caves, Oregon . . 144 ^ 

Dutton Cliff, Crater Lake, Crater Lake National Park 156 * 

Looking North on Second Avenue, Seattle 176 ^ 

Snoqualmie Falls, "Western Washington ..... 190 >/ 

Chelan Canyon, Northern Washington . . . K »■ 212 
Photograph by Kiser, Portland. 

Deming Glacier, Mt. Baker, near Bellingham . . . 226 v 

The Road from Tacoma to Rainier National Park . . 238 >< 

A Forest Lane in Eastern Washington ..... 250 
Photograph by Frank Palmer, Spokane. 

On Lake Pend d'Oreille, Northern Idaho 262 

Looking from Gunsight Lake, Glacier National Park . 280 

Canadian Pacific S. S. Princess Charlotte .... 304 v 



ILLUSTRATIONS 

Facing Page 
Unity Falls, Princess Louise Inlet . 320 

Mt. Arrowsmith, Vancouver Island ...... 336 

Photograph by Leonard Frank, Alberni, B. C. 

In Old Massett, Queen Charlotte Islands, B. C. . . 348 

Seracs of the Illecillewaet Glacier, near Glacier Station 360 

In Sinclair Canyon, on the new Highway from the 
Columbia River Valley, to Banff, across the Rockies 378 

Mirror Lake, above Lake Louise ........ 392 

Mt. Ball, near Banff, Alberta 408 

Photograph by Harmon, Banff. 

The Skeena River, on the line of the Grand Trunk 
Pacific Railway, east of Prince Rupert, B. C. . . . 420 

Babine Indians Spearing Salmon on the Bulkley River 434 

Mt. Robson, Monarch of the Canadian Rockies . . 448 

On a Rocky Mountain Trail 460 y/ 

Maligne Lake, Jasper Park, Alberta 482 I 

The First Cathedral of St. Albert, near Edmonton . . 490 

The Lounge of the McDonald Hotel, Edmonton . . 500 

MAPS 

Oregon 10 ^ 

Washington 164 

Road and Trail Map of Glacier National Park . . .270 

British Columbia 292 

Alberta 470 



From 

"THE MENTAL TRAINING OF A TRAVELLER," 

An address delivered by the 

Right Hon. Viscount Bryce, O.M., 

Before The Royal Geographical Society, London. Extract 
reprinted from The Geographical Journal, February, 1915. 

... If a man enters the finest picture-gallery in 
Europe knowing nothing at all about the painters, 
whose work is there stored, their dates, the schools 
they belonged to, or the subjects they painted, he 
will derive very little benefit, and will carry away 
a most confused impression; but a little prelimi- 
nary study will enable him to appreciate and enjoy 
pictures in a way which will be profitable all the 
rest of his life. 

So it is when we enter the vast gallery of Nature. 
If we start to travel with a certain amount of pre- 
liminary knowledge, our travels repay us more and 
more at every step. The three things we ought 
to carry with us in order to learn and to profit are 
these: first of all, we ought to know what to look 
for ; secondly, how to observe ; and thirdly, how to 
reflect upon the things we do observe. Thus, also, 
the pleasures of travel are three : in the first place, 
the pleasure of observation, that which arises in 
the exercise of the faculty of observing; secondly, 
the pleasure of reflecting upon and generalising 
from what we have observed ; and thirdly, the 
pleasure of memory, because it often happens that 
the pleasure of travel is greater in recollection than 



x "TRAINING OF A TRAVELLER" 

at the actual moment. The traveller may be 
under a severe stress ; he may be suffering some 
grievous hardship, or even sickness ; he may have 
what is even worse, the disappointment of being 
forced to hasten on when he desires to examine 
some spot more carefully. But long afterwards 
he can recall what he has seen and done; he can 
call up the impressions and meditate upon them; 
he can visualise a long series of scenes, and, still 
better, can talk them over with, and draw further 
light from, those who have had a similar ex- 
perience. 

. . • Now I approach the most important part 
of our subject, because it is one which admits of 
very various forms of observation. It is the study 
of the surface of the Earth and of scenery. What- 
ever else we travel for, we all do so, at least in part, 
for the sake of observing scenery, and few can 
appreciate scenery to the full, or get the real en- 
joyment of it, without a strong desire to under- 
stand the elements of which scenic beauty consists. 
Of these elements the chief are those given by 
Geology. When I name that science, do not sup- 
pose that I am going to suggest to any of you 
that a scientific knowledge of geology is in any way 
essential to the traveller. I am thinking of some- 
thing far simpler and more easy of attainment 
than the scientific mastery of geology. It has 
become now a very elaborate science, which has 
ramified out into many branches, and grown quite 
large enough to occupy the whole of a man's 
energies. What I mean is very much less than 
that. I refer to those elements of the knowledge 
of the structure and formation of the Earth which 
are directly connected with scenery : what one may 
call the composition of the Earth as regards its 



"TRAINING OF A TRAVELLER" xi 

substance and materials, and its structure as 
respects the succession of strata and the forms of 
the rocks which rise in eminences from the surface. 
These things interest the naturalist because the 
character of the surface and the rocks affect the 
vegetation and, indirectly, the animals ; they in- 
terest the painter because it is his business to 
portray beautiful and varied landscapes; they in- 
terest the climber because his object is to get as 
high as he can upon mountains, and in order to 
know how to climb any particular kind of moun- 
tain, he will profit very much by his knowledge of 
the particular kind of rock of which it is composed, 
as I shall try to explain to you presently. And 
lastly, apart from all these specialists, there is 
the lover of beauty, and the poet, who desires to 
derive inspiration from nature. From all these 
points of view, whatever enables us to increase our 
power of grasping the quality and charm of scenery 
and carrying it in our memory is an addition to 
our capacity for enjoyment. I am not suggesting 
anything that requires a great amount of study. 
What the traveller needs is something like the gift 
for catching the type of scenery which a great 
painter possesses. Many of you are familiar with 
the landscapes of Turner. Has it ever occurred 
to you that Turner is one of the very few lands- 
cape painters from whose landscapes you can gen- 
erally perceive what is the rock he is painting? 
If you go to his pictures you can almost always 
tell whether the mountain he is delineating is a lime- 
stone, or granite, or sandstone, or a slate moun- 
tain, because he had the gift of precise discrimina- 
tive sight, and took pains to catch the exact char- 
acter of the rock and render it faithfully in respect 
both of colour and of line. The same is true of 



xii "TRAINING OF A TRAVELLER » 

Titian. Any one who had ever seen one of the 
dolomitic mountains of Southern Tyrol would be 
able to recognise them from Titian's backgrounds. 
If you were set down before one of these Titian 
landscapes and did not know where the scene 
represented was situated, any one who had climbed 
among the valleys between the Pusterthal and the 
plains of Venetia would recognise the scene as 
belonging to the Dolomite country. Now the basis 
of this sort of knowledge which geology can give 
to help our appreciation of scenery may be said 
to reside in four things. In the first place, in a 
knowledge of the substance of the rock of which 
the hills are composed; secondly, in a knowledge 
of the series or succession of the different strata 
one above another; thirdly, in a knowledge of the 
processes by which the hills and mountains were 
raised; and fourthly, in a knowledge of the later 
process by which, after the raising had been com- 
pleted, the mountains and hills were carved into 
the present shapes in which we now have them ; that 
is to say, the processes of elevation and denuda- 
tion. These four things are pieces of knowledge 
which a limited amount of geological study would 
be sufficient to give, and they would suffice to help 
a man to appreciate and enjoy the scenery of a 
mountainous country. 

I pass away from the subject of geology to call 
your attention to the fact that some knowledge of 
botany provides another fertile source of interest 
to the traveller. He who has even an elementary 
acquaintance with geographical botany and with 
the classification of the various families of plants 
will find such acquaintance adds a great deal to 
his pleasure in travelling. Some families of plants 



" TRAINING OF A TRAVELLER " xiii 

are most frequently found under certain conditions 
of soil and climate ; some are richer in species use- 
ful for food, or for other economic purposes. 
When one has learnt to know these and become 
familiar with them in his own country, he will 
derive no small enjoyment, when he visits other 
countries, from recognising his old friends in their 
flowers and trees and in making new friends among 
their flora, and also in fitting these new friends of 
the vegetable kingdom in among the families, other 
members of which he knows already. To find new 
types akin to but a little different from the types 
of the flora he has known at home is one of the 
keenest enjoyments the naturalist can have in 
travelling abroad. What has been called w The 
pleasure of Recognition " is a very real pleasure. 
It gives a zest to every excursion, especially to 
mountain excursions, and opens an inexhaustible 
field for fresh observation. Neither will I venture 
to say anything about zoology, except to observe 
that what has been said about botany holds true 
of the animal kingdom also. If you have already 
some knowledge of the families of animals and 
their relations, it becomes very instructive to see 
the wild creatures of other countries. 

From the field of nature we may now pass on to 
the other department in which a man can prepare 
himself by study for travel, namely, the things 
which belong to man and to the works of man. 
The relation of nature to human development, the 
influence which natural environment has upon the 
progress of civilisation and on all the arts which 
belong to civilisation, is an enormous theme on 
which one might discourse for days or even weeks ; 
I only indicate to you what profit the historian, 



xiv "TRAINING OF A TRAVELLER'* 

and especially the historian who has devoted him- 
self to the study of the earlier stages in man's 
growth and development, finds in examining in one 
country after another the relations which exist be- 
tween natural environment and the progress of 
human communities. 

. . . The racial changes in progress to-day 
illustrate the process by which races were formed 
in prehistoric times. The ancient races and their 
customs and their habits are in many regions van- 
ishing and in others suffering change. There are 
processes going on in the Pacific islands which will 
probably have in forty years completely altered 
them and destroyed half their charm. . . . 

Besides all these sources of pleasure which a man 
may derive from carrying along with him as he 
travels some knowledge of history, some trained 
power of observation, and some elementary knowl- 
edge of the sciences of nature that are easiest to 
learn, besides all these there is the instruction and 
stimulus to thought which one may derive from 
studying the temper and mind and ideas of the 
peoples with whom one comes in contact. 



OREGON AND WASHINGTON, 

NORTHERN IDAHO 

AND 

GLACIER NATIONAL PARK, MONTANA. 

CHAPTER I 

GENERAL INFORMATION 
CONCERNING THE AMERICAN NORTHWEST 

Transportation — Customs — Local Railway and Steamer 
Lines — Routes — Tourist Bureaux — Cabs and Street Cars 
— Motorways — Money — Language — Climate and Seasons. 

Transportation. 

By Rail. 

The Pacific Northwest of the United States is 
served by seven trunk lines, which enter from the 
south, east, and north. Connection from Cali- 
fornia is by Southern Pacific across the border of 
Oregon, and north to Portland. Related to the 
Southern Pacific, and forming the Northwest ex- 
tension of the Union Pacific continental system, 
is the pioneer corporation, the Oregon — Washing- 
ton Railroad and Navigation Company. This 
road branches from the Union Pacific east of 
Ogden, Utah, and reaches Portland via the south 
bank of the Columbia River. It then proceeds to 
Tacoma and Seattle, the latter being the northern 
terminus. At Pendleton, Ore., there is a branch 
to Spokane. 

The second continental line to approach Portland 
from the east is the Northern Pacific, which fol- 
lows the rails of its subsidiary road, the Spokane, 
Portland and Seattle, along the north bank of the 
Columbia to the metropolis of Oregon. The main 



2 THE TOURIST'S NORTHWEST 

line of the Northern Pacific loops northwestward 
from the Columbia near Pasco, Washington, to 
the Puget Sound cities. 

The Chicago, Burlington and Quincy Railroad 
joins the Northern Pacific and Great Northern in 
Montana by two routes, and delivers its trains 
to the Coast over the tracks of both these roads. 
The Northwestern and the Soo lines also run into 
coast cities on tracks used by other roads. 

The Chicago, Milwaukee and St. Paul boasts 
the shortest route between Chicago and Puget 
Sound. It holds a course almost due west from 
St. Paul, touching tidewater at Seattle. 

The Great Northern skirts the southern border 
of Glacier National Park, Montana, and passes 
through Spokane to Everett, on the Sound. There 
it turns north to Vancouver in British Columbia, 
and south to Seattle in Washington. 

The farthest north railway to enter the state of 
Washington is the Canadian Pacific, which routes 
its passengers over the Northern Pacific from Mis- 
sion, B. C, to Seattle; and over the Spokane In- 
ternational Railway from Kingsgate, B. C, to 
Spokane. Prom the latter city, tourists holding 
Canadian Pacific tickets travel to Portland via 
the Oregon — Washington Railroad and Naviga- 
tion Co. 

Round trip tickets may be purchased west by 
one route and east by another, at an approximate 
cost of $105, under an arrangement existing be- 
tween the various railroads in the United States 
and Canada. 

Through trains consume about three days in 
making the trip from Chicago to Portland and the 
Puget Sound terminals, a distance of approxi- 
mately 2200 miles. The fastest service of each 



GENERAL INFORMATION 3 

railroad is complemented by such extravagant car 
appointments as can be found only on this con- 
tinent. Besides the luxurious electric-lighted, 
vacuum-cleaned, all-steel limited expresses, 
equipped with compartment, observation, buffet 
and library cars, and having valet, barber and bath 
facilities, a standard Pullman and Tourist sleep- 
ing-car service is maintained on daily trains over 
each route. The Tourist, or second-class, coaches 
are well upholstered, are supplied with superior 
bedding, and have the additional convenience of a 
kitchenette which is free to passengers carrying 
their own baskets of provisions. The occupants 
of the Tourist coaches are also served in the din- 
ing-cars. All Tourist as well as Standard cars 
are in charge of Pullman conductors and porters. 

The rate in the second-class sleeping-cars is about 
half that charged in the standard Pullman, which 
from New York to points in the Northwest is $18 ; 
from Chicago, $13 ; from Omaha and St. Paul, $11, 
for a double lower berth. 

The regular minimum first-class railroad fare 
from coast to coast is approximately $75, the price 
being affected by the route chosen between New 
York and Chicago. The fare from Chicago, 
Omaha and St. Paul to the Coast is about a third 
less. By way of Canada, over the Grand Trunk, 
Canadian Pacific and Canadian Northern lines, the 
Pullman rate is $19 from New York; the mileage 
rate to Seattle, Tacoma and Portland is the same 
as by routes entirely in United States territory. 

From Halifax to all cities of the Pacific North- 
west the first-class fare is $87.90, second-class 
$74.30; from Montreal the fares are respectively 
$72.75 and $62.50. Lower first-class berth, 
Canadian Pacific, Montreal - Vancouver or Mont- 



4 THE TOURIST'S NORTHWEST 

real - Seattle, $17. Travellers by the Canadian 
Pacific to Vancouver and thence to Seattle by 
water, and travellers by the Grand Trunk, Can- 
adian Government Road and Grand Trunk Pacific 
across the continent, and by steamer, Prince Ru- 
pert - Seattle, are transported at the foregoing 
all-rail rates. 1 

By Steamer. 

Two swift and spacious steamers carrying the 
ensign of the Great Northern Pacific Company ply 
three times a week, from spring to fall, between 
San Francisco and Flavel, at the mouth of the 
Columbia River. Winter sailings are less fre- 
quent. These vessels, built in the Cramp Ship- 
yards and put in commission early in 1915, are 
designed to compete with the fastest express 
trains running between California and Oregon. 
Passengers embark in San Francisco at Pier 
9. Steamer trains operate between Flavel, 
Astoria and Portland in connection with the 
arrival and departure of the steamships Great 
Northern and Northern Pacific. The time at 
sea between San Francisco and Flavel is 26 
hours ; on the special train, Flavel to Portland, 
3% hours. Tacoma and Seattle are brought 
nearer to San Francisco by this route than by any 
other over either rails or water. The fare to 
Portland is the same as by train ($20 first-class), 
and includes meals and berth at sea. 

The Bear, the Beaver and the Rose City of 
the San Francisco and Portland S. S. Company 

i The reader is referred to The Tourist's California for de- 
tailed information concerning routes by land and water 
which are available for travellers to the Northwest, via Cali- 
fornia. 



GENERAL INFORMATION 5) 

(operated by the O.-W. R'y & N. Co.) enter the 
Columbia and steam 100 miles along its narrowing 
shores to the docks of Portland. Connection is 
made by this company between San Pedro (harbour 
of Los Angeles), San Francisco, Portland and 
Seattle. 

The North Pacific Steamship Company main- 
tains a regular schedule between San Diego, Cali- 
fornia, San Pedro, San Francisco and Portland, 
calling en route at Eureka, California and Coos 
Bay, Oregon. 

Seattle, Tacoma, Everett, Bellingham and Port 
Townsend, Washington, many be reached from 
southern and northern California ports by the 
Pacific Coast Steamship Company's fleet of five 
vessels. 

The Pacific Alaska Navigation Company has bi- 
weekly sailings between California and Puget 
Sound, the steamers Admiral Dewey, Admiral 
Schley and Admiral Farragut being maintained in 
the service. 

Two Canadian trans-continental railways operate 
fast steamers from British Columbia to ports in 
the state of Washington. The steamships Prin- 
cess Victoria and Princess Charlotte of the Cana- 
dian Pacific Company make daily trips between 
Vancouver, Victoria and Seattle, the total time 
being less than twelve hours. There is direct 
connection nightly between Vancouver and Seattle 
in nine and a half hours. A steamer is in daily 
service on the route, Victoria - Port Townsend - 
Seattle - Tacoma. Time, seven hours. 

Canadian Pacific steamers from Victoria and 
Vancouver connect with Prince Rupert and other 
points on the northern coast of British Columbia. 

From Prince Rupert, its western terminus, the 



6 THE TOURIST'S NORTHWEST 

recently constructed Grand Trunk Pacific Railway 
despatches thrice a week, on the arrival of trans- 
continental trains, the twin screw steamships, 
Prince George and Prmce Rupert, for Vancouver, 
Victoria and Seattle. These oil-burning vessels 
have a tonnage of nearly 4000 tons and a maxi- 
mum speed of 18% knots. Their schedule time 
from Prince Rupert to Seattle (710 miles) is 
twenty hours; from Vancouver (160 m. via Vic- 
toria) twelve hours; from Victoria (76 m.), six 
hours. 

Through passengers over the Grand Trunk 
Pacific or Canadian Pacific Railway travelling to 
Seattle from Prince Rupert, Vancouver or Vic- 
toria by boat are transported at the all-rail con- 
tinental rate, the water trip being optional on 
the C. P. R. Fares include meals and berth on 
steamers of both lines. 

Customs. 

Passengers arriving by a ship which has called 
at a foreign port, or by rail from Canada, must 
submit their baggage to Customs examination on 
entering the United States. This regulation also 
applies to all trans-Pacific passengers except those 
who have embarked at Honolulu. Aside from 
wearing apparel, articles of personal adornment, 
toilet articles and similar personal effects, resi- 
dents of the United States may bring in articles 
for personal or household use, or souvenirs or 
curios not bought on commission or intended for 
sale to the value of $100, exempt from duty. But 
all articles must be declared. 

Each person over 18 years of age may bring in 
free of duty 50 cigars or 300 cigarettes, or smok- 
ing tobacco not exceeding 3 pounds, if for the bona 



GENERAL INFORMATION 7 

fide use of such passenger. These must be de- 
clared, but will be passed free by customs officers 
in addition to the $100 exemption. 

Non-residents must declare all articles of their 
own aside from personal effects, and all articles 
of any nature whatsoever if brought in for other 
persons or for sale. 

See under " Motorways," Chapter XII, for 
United States regulations covering motor-cars en- 
tering from Canada. 

Local Railway and Steamer Lines. 
Oregon. 2 

The following railway lines, given in alphabetical 
order, provide excellent transportation facilities 
throughout the State to the points mentioned 
therein. 

Coos Bay, Roseburg & Eastern Railroad, main 
line from Marshfield to Myrtle Point, 29 miles. 
Operated by Southern Pacific Railroad. 

Corvallis & Eastern Railway, main line running 
east and west from Yaquina to Hoover, 140 miles. 
Operated by Southern Pacific Railroad. 

Great Southern Railroad, main line from The 
Dalles to Friend, 45 miles. 

Great Northern Railway, which operates to all 
territory in Washington and Northern Idaho, in- 
cluding Puget Sound points, from Vancouver to 
Portland terminus, 10 miles. 

Mt. Hood Railroad, main line from Hood River 
to Mt. Hood station, 20 miles. 

Nevada — California — Oregon Railroad operates 

2 Compiled by the Secretary of the Portland Chamber of 
Commerce, for the Oregon Almanac, 1915, published by the 
State Immigration Commission. 



8 THE TOURIST'S NORTHWEST 

from New Pine Creek to Lakeview, Lake County, 
13.91 miles. 

Northern Pacific Railway, main line from Port- 
land to Columbia River, being a part of the main 
line to all Washington territory, including the 
Puget Sound, and all of the principal points in 
Northern Idaho. Branch line from Pendleton to 
connect with main line in Washington, total 83 
miles. 

Oregon - Washington Railroad & Navigation 
Company, main line runs east and west across the 
state from Portland to Huntington. The new line 
from Ayer Junction, Washington, to Spokane, 
Washington, has been opened and is in operation. 
This shortens the Portland - Spokane route 43 
miles and changes mileage from 421 to 378 miles. 
Branch lines to Puget Sound and Grays Harbor 
points in Washington, to Bend in Central Oregon, 
to Shaniko, Condon, Heppner, Pilot Rock, Joseph, 
Homestead and Brogan in Eastern Oregon. 
Branch lines run also to Walla Walla, North 
Yakima, Spokane, Moscow, Lewiston and other 
cities and towns in Eastern Washington and North- 
ern Idaho. Line now under construction across 
Central Oregon from Vale, through Malheur 
County, has been completed to Riverside, a dis- 
tance of 78 miles, and is being extended beyond. 
Total in Oregon, 815 miles. 

Oregon Trunk Railway, part of the Spokane, 
Portland & Seattle Railway system from Fall- 
bridge, Washington, on north bank of the Colum- 
bia River, to Bend, Oregon, 156 miles south. 

Pacific & Eastern Railroad, main line from Med- 
ford to Eagle Point, 34 miles, owned by S. P. & 
S. R. R. 

Pacific Railway & Navigation Company, main 



GENERAL INFORMATION 9 

line from Hillsboro to Tillamook, 63 miles. Op- 
erated by Southern Pacific Railroad. 

Southern Pacific, main line from Portland to Cali- 
fornia state line and a part of the through line to 
San Francisco and other California cities. The 
entire Willamette Valley served by branch and 
auxiliary lines, a large part of which are operated 
by electric power. Also line in Klamath County, 
connecting with the main line at Weed, California. 

Spokane, Portland & Seattle Railway, main line 
Portland to Spokane, 377 miles. From Portland 
across Willamette and Columbia rivers to Van- 
couver, along the north bank of the Columbia 
through eight counties of Washington to Spokane, 
connecting with the Great Northern and Northern 
Pacific railways, with which it affiliates, and forms 
a through line to the East. Main line also ex- 
tends from Portland to Astoria, Flavel and Ore- 
gon seaside resorts. Total in state, 119 miles. 

Oregon Electric Railway, main line Portland to 
Eugene, 122 miles, which, with branches to Forest 
Grove and Hillsboro, Woodburn and Corvallis, 
total 154 miles. Standard electric road operat- 
ing freight and passenger trains and inter-chang- 
ing business with system lines. Owned jointly by 
Great Northern and Northern Pacific railways. 

The United Railways, to Wilkesboro, 27 miles. 
Projected to Tillamook City, Tillamook County, 
90 miles west from Portland. Standard electric 
road, operating freight and passenger trains, 
owned jointly by Great Northern and North- 
ern Pacific. Runs through the milling and 
manufacturing suburbs to North Portland har- 
bour. 

The Portland, Eugene & Eastern Railway. 
Northern terminal, Portland ; southern terminal. 



10 THE TOURIST'S NORTHWEST 

Eugene. Total mileage, 340. Main line follows 
Willamette River ; Molalla division swings through 
rich hills on east side ; west side line is an electri- 
fication of part of the Southern Pacific Company's 
steam lines. Operate street car systems in 
Salem, Albany, Corvallis and Eugene. 

The Portland Railway, Light & Power Co., which 
owns the street railway system and street lighting 
system of Portland, runs interurban lines to Ore- 
gon City, Estacada, St. Johns, Fairview, Trout- 
dale, Bull Run and Vancouver, Washington, 144 
miles. 

The Willamette Pacific Railroad has been con- 
structed and opened from Eugene to Mapleton, 
Lane County, a distance of 58 miles, and is being 
extended to Marshfield. 

Frequent express trains afford excellent trans- 
portation between Portland, Tacoma and Seattle, 
over the joint route of the O.-W. R. & N., the 
Northern Pacific and Great Northern. 

Steamboat lines of chief interest to tourists in 
Oregon are those which run north and east of 
Portland, on the Columbia. The O.-W. R. & N. 
Company schedules a steamer every night except 
Sunday between Portland, Astoria and way-towns ; 
at Megler, Wash., connection is made with the 
shore railroad to Ilwaco, Long Beach and Nah- 
cotta, Wash. Smaller boats run direct to North 
Beach and Kelso, Wash. The Harkins Company 
has sailings over the Astoria route daily except 
Monday. 

Steamers of the Coos Bay, and North Pacific S. 
S. Company lines sail regularly for Coos Bay, via 
the Willamette and Columbia Rivers and the 
Pacific Ocean. 



GENERAL INFORMATION 11 

Rival lines offer almost daily service from Port- 
land to the Cascades, Hood River and The Dalles, 
88 miles west on the Columbia River. 

Attractive water trips may also be taken down 
the Willamette to Vancouver, Wash., and up the 
same river from Portland to historic Oregon City 
and the Falls of the Willamette. 

Washington. 

The main lines of the Northern Pacific, the Great 
Northern, the Spokane, Portland and Seattle, the 
Chicago, Milwaukee and St. Paul, and the Oregon - 
Washington Railroad and Navigation Companies, 
with their various extensive branches, furnish 
transportation to all sections of Washington that 
concern the tourist. 

The Northern Pacific enters the State from 
Montana just east of Spokane, and from there 
radiates in several directions. The tourist is in- 
terested in the lines due south over the Idaho — 
Washington branches into the Clearwater country 
of Idaho, and to Lewiston, Idaho; and southwest 
from Spokane to Pasco, where the through road 
to the Coast via North Yakima joins the Spokane, 
Portland and Seattle Road to Portland. The 
Northern Pacific also operates trains from Pasco 
to Walla Walla, Wash., and Pendleton, Ore. 
Across the Cascade Mountains, Northern Pacific 
rails go north from Seattle to the British Colum- 
bia boundary (227 m.), branching to Snoqualmie 
Fails, Everett and Bellingham ; and run south 
from Seattle to Tacoma (40 m.) and Olympia 
(73 m.). By way of Olympia, there is connec- 
tion for stations on Gray's Harbor; from Cen- 
tralia a branch goes to South Bend on Willapa 
Harbor. On week-days a steamer serves the route 



12 THE TOURIST'S NORTHWEST 

from South Bend to Nahcotta, on the southwest 
coast of Washington. 

The Spokane, Portland and Seattle Railway, 
owned by the Northern Pacific and Great Northern 
companies, and called, also, the North Bank Road, 
traverses southern Washington on the border of 
the Columbia River for 370 miles. Its rails do 
not touch Seattle, passengers being routed north 
from Vancouver, Wash., or Portland, by the 
Northern Pacific and Great Northern over the 
Oregon — Washington railroad's traces. 

The Great Northern serves the superior half of 
Washington almost exclusively. At Spokane an 
important road, £00 miles long, joins the Inland 
Empire to Nelson, British Columbia. A branch, 
which crosses and re-crosses the boundary, turns 
off at Marcus to Oroville. The last-named point 
is also reached from the trunk line, Spokane — 
Everett — Seattle (339 m.), by a road which bisects 
the upper portion of the State and taps the Lake 
Chelan region. The route of the Great Northern, 
Everett - Bellingham - Blaine (85 m.) follows the 
curve of the north Washington coast; proceed- 
ing across the boundary beyond Blaine, Vancou- 
ver, B. C, is reached 37 miles further on. 

The Great Northern main line is connected with 
the Canadian Pacific Railway in southern Alberta 
and British Columbia by branches which run 
north from Virden and Rexford (respectively east 
and west of Glacier National Park). 

The Spokane International Railway joins Spo- 
kane to Kingsgate, B. C. 

The transcontinental route of the Chicago, Mil- 
waukee and St. Paul forms the most direct link 
between the cities of Spokane and Seattle, which 
are nearly the full width of the State apart. 



GENERAL INFORMATION 13 

Short branches give access to Everett, via 
Snoqualmie Falls, and to Gray's Harbor and 
Willapa Harbor towns. The Bellingham and 
Northern Railway goes inland from the coast 44* 
miles to Glacier, nearest station to Mt. Baker. 
Another road allied with the continental system 
is the Seattle, Port Angeles and Western, which 
connects with Port Townsend, and parallels the 
Strait of Juan de Fuca, along the north shore of 
the Olympic Peninsula. To the tourist the most 
important of the short lines associated with the 
Chicago, Milwaukee and St. Paul in Washington is 
the Tacoma Eastern Railroad, which takes its way 
southward from Puget Sound beneath the shadow 
of Mt. Rainier, and terminates at Morton (67 m.) 
near the base of Mt. St. Helens. This is the only 
railway passing the gates of Rainier National 
Park, though a branch of the Northern Pacific 
leads to within 9 miles of the northwest entrance. 

Besides its main line from Portland to Seattle 
(183 m. = 6% hrs.), the Oregon - Washington 
Railroad and Navigation Company controls in 
Washington a branch 26 miles long from Megler, 
opposite Astoria, along North Beach to Nahcotta ; 
another from Centralia to Aberdeen and Hoquiam 
(57 m.), and a third from Attalia, on the road 
Portland - Spokane, to North Yakima (101 m.). 
A fourth branch joins Wallula to Walla Walla 
(31 m.). These two junction points are con- 
nected by several routes with Spokane, the short- 
est being the newly finished road via Ayer, Hooper 
and Marengo. 

Interurban electric trains unite all large cities 
of Washington with outlying towns and resorts. 

Many beautiful water journeys are afforded by 
steamers small and large, plying Puget Sound and 



14 THE TOURIST'S NORTHWEST 

its inlets. Out of Seattle there are trips by the 
boats of the Puget Sound Navigation Company 
daily, or six times a week, to Port Townsend, Port 
Angeles, Everett, Anacortes, Bellingham and Vic- 
toria, B. C, with calls at way points. The same 
company gives a daily service up the long arm of 
the Hood Canal; his tri-weekly sailings for the 
San Juan Islands; makes eight trips daily down 
the Sound to Tacoma and return ; and nine trips 
a day to Bremerton Navy Yard. 

Seattle and Olympia are connected by steamer 
via Tacoma. 

The Pacific Coast Steamship Company offers a 
three-day tour around the Sound, leaving on Sun- 
days from Seattle for Vancouver, B. C, Belling- 
ham, Anacortes and Tacoma; fare $10, including 
berth and meals. 

Various day excursions from Seattle, Tacoma, 
Port Townsend, Everett and Bellingham, among 
Puget Sound inlets and islands, are advertised in 
the local newspapers. The Daily Index, pub- 
lished in Seattle, may be consulted. 

Alaska and Trans-Pacific Steamers. 

Seattle is the home port of half a dozen passenger 
lines to Alaska, the principal ones being the Pacific 
Coast Steamship Company, the Alaska Steamship 
Company, the Pacific Alaska Navigation Company 
and the Humboldt Steamship Company. Fare, 
Seattle - Skagway - Sitka and return, $66, Time, 
about 12 days. A steamer of the Grand Trunk 
Pacific Company leaves Seattle weekly for Alaska 
during the tourist season, calling at Canadian 
ports en route. 

The Japanese lines, Nippon Yusen Kaisha from 



GENERAL INFORMATION 15 

Seattle, and Osaka Shosen Kaisha from Tacoma 
and Seattle, have regular sailings for principal 
ports in Japan and China. 

Routes. 

A circular tour of the chief natural features of 
the American Northwest may be conveniently ar- 
ranged if tickets are taken over the Great North- 
ern to Glacier National Park, thence through the 
Lake region of Northern Idaho to Spokane, from 
which point there is direct access by three trunk 
lines over the Cascade Range to the Puget Sound 
country. The return journey may be made from 
Seattle to Portland, from where there is a choice 
of two all-rail routes to Spokane, and a water 
and rail route along the Columbia part way to 
Spokane. 

The same tour can be made in inverse direction 
by entering the charmed scenic circle at Portland 
by the Southern Pacific line or by water routes 
from California; at Seattle by steamers from the 
south and north, or by three railroads connecting 
with Canada; and at Spokane by the Northern 
Pacific, the Chicago, Burlington and Quincy and 
the Chicago, Milwaukee and St. Paul. The Union 
Pacific, Oregon Short Line and Oregon - Wash- 
ington Railway and Navigation Company make 
possible the same tour, beginning on the Columbia 
River half way between Portland and Spokane ; or 
at Spokane, via a branch of the O.-W. R. and N. 
Co. from Pendleton, Ore. 

The magnificence of Crater Lake National Park 
in Southern Oregon rewards the long journey by 
rail and water, even if one must retrace one's 
steps by the Southern Pacific to Portland in order 



16 THE TOURIST'S NORTHWEST 

to include it in the Northwest itinerary. Coming 
by way of California, the lakes of Southern Oregon 
are convenient of access. 

En route to the north, the traveller who has 
elected the trail of the Union Pacific or the Chi- 
cago, Burlington and Quincy may visit the won- 
ders of Colorado. From Denver, the C. B. and Q. 
approaches Yellowstone National Park. The Un- 
ion Pacific system routes its passengers via Salt 
Lake City and has a branch (Oregon Short Line) 
to the Yellowstone. This Park is also the featured 
attraction of the Northern Pacific Road. 

Widening the touring circle, one may go west by 
the Santa Fe or Southern Pacific, travel the length 
of California, turn aside to see Klamath Lake, 
Crater Lake and the Marble Caves of Southern 
Oregon, visit the towns and beaches of upper Ore- 
gon, go from Portland by train, steamboat or 
motor-road up the Columbia, return to Portland, 
proceed by train or the San Francisco and Port- 
land S. S. Co. to Seattle, make a tour of Puget 
Sound, return east from Seattle, Tacoma, Everett 
or Bellingham to Spokane (if by the Great North- 
ern from Everett, visiting Lake Chelan en route), 
and from Spokane continue east by roads lead- 
ing to Glacier National Park, Yellowstone 
National Park, 3 Salt Lake or Denver. 

If the tour is to include Western Canada, the 
trip west or east may be taken through the 
Canadian Rockies via the Canadian Pacific, Grand 
Trunk or Canadian Northern. Or the tourist can 
go by rail or water from Puget Sound points to 
Vancouver; travel from there through the most 

3 The Department of the Interior, Washington, issues a 
pamphlet, "Glimpses of our National Parks," which the 
tourist will find of interest. 



GENERAL INFORMATION IT 

spectacular section of the Canadian Pacific route 
to Calgary, Alberta; and at Calgary make rail 
connections which will without great inconvenience 
bring him to Glacier National Park, across the 
border. The same result may be effected by tak- 
ing Grand Trunk Pacific steamer from Seattle to 
Prince Rupert, and there beginning the eastward 
journey by the new Grand Trunk Pacific Railway 
along the Skeena River, past Mt. Robson, monarch 
of the northern Rockies, and through beautiful 
Jasper National Park to Edmonton, Alberta, 193 
miles north of Calgary, with which it has frequent 
train connection. This programme will appeal to 
tourists who wish to see the Canadian Sierra, but 
who prefer to return east from the Rocky Moun- 
tains through the United States, instead of across 
the prairies of central Canada. 

Excursionists to Alaska who embark at Seattle, 
may disembark at Prince Rupert or Vancouver, B. 
C, from certain steamers, and, travelling east over 
the Grand Trunk Pacific or Canadian Pacific lines, 
re-enter the United States as above outlined. 



Tourist Bureaux. 

In Portland, the Peck-Judah Company, 
Stark Street, and the Travel Bureau, 116 Third 
Street; in Seattle, the Travellers' Bureau, 1220 
Fourth Avenue, and A. E. Disney, correspondent 
of Thomas Cook and Son, 619 Second Avenue, all 
gratuitously advise the tourist. Information re- 
garding local resources, attractions, routes and 
transportation may also be obtained from Cham- 
bers of Commerce, Development Leagues and 
Business Men's Clubs in the various cities, towns 
and villages of Oregon and Washington. 



18 THE TOURIST'S NORTHWEST 

Cabs and Street Cars. 

Electric and horse-drawn vehicles are for hire by 
the course and by time in all the cities of the 
Northwest. Electric rail transportation, both 
urban and suburban, is carried to a high degree 
of efficiency. Aside from many miles of street car 
lines in Portland, there are cars running into the 
country in seven directions. Seattle's 250 miles 
of street car tracks transport resident and visitor 
to the city's generous limit and beyond. Spokane's 
street car mileage totals 137, and suburban lines 
make easy of access a great number of delight- 
ful resorts. 

The jitney automobile, whose enterprise has 
seriously affected the profits and equanimity of 
chartered transportation companies, continues to 
thrive in the Northwest, and gives a cheap, rapid, 
convenient, and, withal, democratic service to all 
classes of people. 

Motorways. 

The great transcontinental automobile road of 
the United States, the Lincoln Highway, extends 
3384 miles from Forty-second street, New York, 
to Lincoln Park, San Francisco. The official em- 
blem of the Highway is a large letter L on a tri- 
color sign-board. 

Lateral roads join the highroad from the north 
and south. One which branches from the main 
artery of motor travel 200 miles east of Ogden, 
strikes toward Boise, Idaho, and continues over the 
trail of the Oregon pioneers through Baker City, 
Ore., beyond the Snake River, and down the valley 
of the Columbia to Portland. The same route 
followed from Boise turns northward at Walla 



GENERAL INFORMATION 19 

Walla, Wash., to North Yakima, Ellensburg and 
Seattle. 

The American Automobile Association, 437 Fifth 
Ave., New York, will supply information concern- 
ing this ocean to ocean tour. 

The National Parks Transcontinental Highway, 
born of the ambition and energy of the good roads 
enthusiasts of the Northwest, is open to traffic from 
June 15 to October 1, and presents a well main- 
tained highway from Chicago, through St. Paul, 
Bismarck, N. D., Livingston, Montana, Missoula, 
Wallace, Idaho, Spokane and Ellensburg to 
Seattle and Tacoma. The sign is a device in red 
and white. Though three ranges are crossed, the 
grade never exceeds five per cent. Along its 
course this northern continental route touches by 
branch roads the Yellowstone, Glacier and Rainier 
National Parks. On the coast of southwestern 
Washington it brinks the Pacific. The Motorists' 
Travel Service Bureau at Spokane will send free 
a pamphlet about this highway and its contribut- 
ing branches. 

Spokane is also the headquarters of the Western 
office of the Automobile Trail Blazing Associa- 
tion of America. This organisation undertakes to 
blaze motor-ways throughout the continent, by 
placing a painted mark on telephone and tele- 
graph poles, or other suitable places, at every 
opening in given roads. A trail from New York 
to Seattle is so marked, also the Pacific and Col- 
umbia Highways, besides many others of interest 
to motor tourists. Inquiries as to routes, dis- 
tances and road conditions will be answered by this 
association if addressed, Post Office Box 156, 
Spokane, Washington. 

The Pacific Highway, "Road of Three Nations," 



20 THE TOURIST'S NORTHWEST 

was originally projected at Seattle in 1910, when 
representatives of Coast automobile clubs met in 
conference to outline a system of routes which 
should j oin Mexico to Canada, via California, Ore- 
gon and Washington. 

The sign bears the name of the Highway with 
arrows pointing north and south. 

Tourists entering Canada from Washington are 
required to give a bond for the export of their 
machines within three months or six months. 
Upon re-entering the United States the sum of 
this bond is returned. Seven-day Touring Per- 
mits, issued without payment of bond by the Cana- 
dian Customs, will be extended to fourteen days 
upon request. 

The Pacific Coast Automobile Blue Book, pub- 
lished at 541 Pacific Building, San Francisco, at 
$2.50 per copy, gives exhaustively, touring maps, 
descriptive notes, traffic regulations and auto- 
mobile laws relating to California, Oregon, Wash- 
ington and Western British Columbia. Customs 
Regulations are printed in detail at the rear of 
the volume. 

A superior map showing the motor routes and 
topography of the entire Pacific Slope will be sent 
free upon application to the California Automobile 
Tours Co., Hotel Oakland, Oakland, California. 
The path of the Lincoln Highway is also out- 
lined, together with its main laterals. The 
author is indebted to this folder for the follow- 
ing information concerning speed regulations and 
licenses. 

Under a recent ruling of the Supreme Court of 
California the state law was held to supersede the 
city and town ordinances and the speed regulations 
of motor vehicles are therefore uniform. Practi- 



GENERAL INFORMATION 21 

cally the same regulations apply to Washington 
and Oregon. These permit thirty miles an hour 
on all highways, twenty miles an hour in the out- 
lying districts of towns and cities, and ten miles 
an hour in the congested districts. By observing 
these regulations the visiting motorists will not be 
annoyed by the motor-policemen maintained in 
many districts, particularly on the State Highway 
in the vicinity of the cities. The fine usually im- 
posed where arrests are made for speeding is $25 
for the first offence, $50 for the second, and $100 
or a jail term for the third offence. The third 
offence usually carries with it a revocation of the 
license to drive an automobile. 

Foreign cars are allowed thirty days' touring 
privilege on the Pacific Coast without taking out 
a license. This is the provision of the State laws, 
but as a matter of fact one may safely tour 
for a period of ninety days without the necessity 
of taking out a license, as all Pacific Coast com- 
munities are lenient in this regard and desirous of 
extending every courtesy to visiting motorists. 
The car, must, however, bear the license number 
of its home State displayed conspicuously both on 
the front and rear. 

The Portland Automobile Club issues an illus- 
trated booklet, entitled, " Oregon's Scenic High- 
ways," which is distributed gratis, and similar 
printed matter is obtainable from the Automobile 
Club of Seattle, concerning the roads of Wash- 
ington. 

The good roads enterprise of Oregon is of com- 
paratively recent date. During the past three 
years, over $2,000,000 has been spent by counties 
traversed by the Pacific Highway and the Colum- 



22 THE TOURIST'S NORTHWEST 

bia Highway in perfecting these roads alone. 
Since 1903, the total sum of $18,000,000 has been 
expended in the State upon the construction of 
roads and bridges. The proudest achievement of 
the counties which border the Columbia from 
Pendleton to Astoria is the hewing and surfacing 
of the superb motorway along the palisades of 
the River of the West, which in the summer of 
1915 was opened to wheeled traffic. Counties on 
the Washington side of the river are also develop- 
ing a highway which follows the course of this 
storied stream. 

The Columbia Highway; the Ocean Highway 
from the Columbia's mouth southward along the 
Pacific; the Central Oregon Highway, which 
divides the state in two from the Columbia River 
to the California border ; and the Pacific Highway 
south from Portland are the principal motor 
courses of Oregon. Each of them has its partic- 
ular lure of vast peak, wide plain and valley, 
broad river, towering forest or ocean view. 

Roads leading from Medford or Ashland, in 
southern Oregon, or from California by way of 
Klamath Falls, arrive at the gates of Crater Lake 
National Park. Within the Park, the Govern- 
ment is building a system of roads, to include one 
of 22 miles around the lake rim, with four roads 
leading in from contiguous counties. 

Moderately good roads from Medford and 
Grant's Pass approach the Josephine County 
Caves, 47 miles off the Pacific Highway. The last 
10 miles is by pack trail, not negotiable by auto- 
mobile. True appreciators of the miraculous in 
nature will disregard all discomfort to see these 
Marble Halls, within the fastnesses of southern 
Oregon. 



GENERAL INFORMATION 23 

Some Oregon towns, notably Ashland and Spring- 
field, maintain free camping-grounds for tourists 
by motor. Among pleasant groves are stores, 
garages, free shower baths, chalets and cooking 
facilities — all at the disposal of the stranger who 
stays the night. Thousands of cars are annually 
parked in these hospitable grounds. 

The western and eastern sections of Washington 
are veined with roads adapted to touring. From 
Tacoma a splendid road as regards both surface 
and scenery, spans the distance of 56 miles between 
Puget Sound and Rainier National Park. From 
the Park entrance, motors go on by Government 
road in view of Mt. Rainier to Nisqually Glacier 
and Paradise Valley. 

Good roads lead from the local boulevards of 
Seattle, Tacoma and Olympia to the Gray's Har- 
bor country. A trip replete with vigorous sen- 
sations is the one from Olympia by the Olympic 
Highway, newly completed, up the broad peninsula 
to Quilcene, Port Townsend and Port Angeles, 
across sapphiric Lake Crescent, and so to the Pa- 
cific Ocean, distant by this route 275 miles from 
Seattle. 

A detour of 10 miles from the western end of 
Lake Crescent brings one to Sol Due Hot Springs, 
high in the mountains of Olympus. 

Of the short trips east from Seattle, the one to 
Snoqualmie Falls (28 m.) and Snoqualmie Pass 
(65 m.), via the Sunset Highway, is the finest. 
Five miles beyond the Pass is Lake Keechelus. 

The Pacific Highway follows the coast 125 miles 
north to Blaine, on the way into British Columbia. 
West from Everett (32 m. north of Seattle), there 
is a beautiful mountain drive to Index, From the 



04 THE TOURIST'S NORTHWEST 

latter point, a new highway has been constructed 
across Stevens Pass to Wenatchee, east of the 
Cascades. Two roundabout routes lead from Bel- 
lingham (7£ m. north of Everett) towards Mt. 
Baker. 

An international tour consuming about a week 
and covering 500 miles of good road around 
Puget Sound is known as the Georgian Circuit. 
The route from Seattle follows north to Van- 
couver, B. C. ; thence to Nanaimo, Vancouver 
Island by steamer; thence to Victoria by road; 
thence ferry to Port Angeles, Wash. ; thence down 
the Olympic Peninsula to Olympia, and back to 
Seattle via Tacoma by road. 

Washington's great central tract is crossed by 
the Sunset Highway (joined at Wenatchee by the 
Stevens Pass road from Index), and by the Inland 
Empire Highway. 4 The Sunset Route lies across 
the Cascades through the Snoqualmie Pass, from 
Puget Sound to Ellensburg. From the latter 
point it proceeds by way of Wenatchee (detour by 
steamer to Lake Chelan) and Coulee City to Spo- 
kane, and there loses its identity in the National 
Parks Highway, of which it is a part. Travellers 
by this route describe the going as very bad 
on the desert between Wenatchee and Spo- 
kane. 

Seattle to Spokane via Ellensburg and Wen- 
atchee, 360 miles. 

The Inland Empire Highway turns south from 
the Sunset at Ellensburg and proceeds across Cen- 
tral Washington via North Yakima and Sunny- 
side to Walla Walla. From the latter city it 
mounts almost due north to Spokane, where many 

* The McClellan Pass Highway, Auburn to North Yakima, 
is in process of building, across the Cascades. 



GENERAL INFORMATION 25 

roads focus, and continues on to the British Colum- 
bia border. 

The 100-mile journey east from Spokane, 
through the Rockies to Kalispell is especially fine. 
Glacier Park, which lies just beyond, is the resort 
each season of an increasing number of enthusias- 
tic motorists, who find the Park roads, the scenery 
and lodging accommodations beyond criticism. 

Money. 

Gold and silver currency are in more frequent 
circulation on the Pacific Coast than paper money. 
The 25-cent piece is familiarly termed " two-bits." 
Canadian silver is accepted at face value. 

The most convenient method of carrying funds 
is in the form of travellers' cheques, such as are 
issued by various banks, express companies and 
tourist agencies. A list of principal banks is 
given at the rear of this volume. 

Language. 

Interesting traces are still to be found in the 
Northwest of the " Chinook jargon," a patois of 
Indian origin which the pioneer settlers employed 
in trade. 5 Just as in California the Spanish word 
often usurps the English, so in the Northwest one 
hears tillacum (or tilikum) used for " companion " 
or " friend," and slcoohum to express " excellent," 

s Captain Cook in 1778 " recorded a list of native words 
which were afterwards used by other captains until it be- 
came the foundation of the great Chinook jargon, which, as 
developed by the Hudson Bay Company, became the com- 
mon language of all northwestern Indians from California 
to Mt. St. Elias, and from the Rocky Mountains to the 
Pacific Ocean." — E. S. Meany in History of the State of 
Washington, 



26 THE TOURISTS NORTHWEST 

or " forceful." The " skookum house," because it 
is strong, is a common term applied to the local 
jail. If something to eat or enjoy is particularly 
pleasing, it is also " skookum." 

Place-names, particularly in Washington, reflect 
Indian occupancy. Charles Nordhoff in his book 
on Northern California and Oregon, published in 
1874, decries the inelegance of Skookumchuck, 
Newaukum and Toutle, and of the county names 
Wahkiakum, Snohomish and Klickitat. " They 
complain in Olympia," says he, " that Washington 
Territory gets but little immigration; but what 
wonder? What man, having the whole American 
Continent to choose from, would willingly date his 
letters from the county of Snohomish, or bring up 
his children in the city of Nenolelops. . . . Seattle 
is sufficiently barbarous ; Steilacoom is no better ; 
and I suspect that the Northern Pacific Railroad 
terminus has been fixed at Tacoma . . . because 
that is one of the few places on Puget Sound whose 
name does not inspire horror and disgust." Nord- 
hoff's distaste might reasonably have extended to 
Pe Ell, Cle Elum and Enumclaw, Humptulips and 
Moclips, but the census records do not indicate 
that any of the communities afore-named have suf- 
fered in population by reason of their uncouth 
cognomens — certainly not Seattle, which a wood- 
cut of forty years ago portrays as a scant village 
of low wooden houses. 



Climate and Seasons. 

A well-known author-physician has declared 
that one lacks " important qualifications for imag- 
ining what the climate of heaven may be like," if 
he has never known an Oregon or Washington sum- 



GENERAL INFORMATION 27 

mer. As applied to the coast this is praise which 
in normal years any traveller will corroborate. 
Concerning the vast territory east of the Cascades, 
and even the western valleys which serve as funnels 
for the torrid prairie winds to draw through and 
in those confined by mountain ranges, one might 
more truthfully agree with Pere Accolti, a Jesuit 
writer of the early half of the nineteenth century, 
who described the Oregon climate as " Huit mois 
d'hiver, et quatre d'enfer." 

In the central and eastern sections of Oregon and 
Washington, away from the cooling influence of 
moist sea winds, one may suffer oppressive sum- 
mer heat during persistent periods unrelieved by 
rain-storms. Here, summers are dry and hot, 
winters cold and rainy, with some snow on the 
upper plateau. West of the Cascades and east 
of the Coast Range, in the Rogue River Valley 
of southern Oregon, the average maximum for 
July is 87°, with a correspondingly high tempera- 
ture in winter. In Portland, 100 miles from the 
sea, the thermometer occasionally attains the cen- 
tury mark in mid-summer, but the temperature at 
the same season in the Puget Sound district rarely 
exceeds or equals 90°, and 60° is the average tem- 
perature during July and August. The nights on 
the Coast are invariably refreshingly breezy. 
Oddly, Tacoma is usually one degree cooler than 
Seattle, possibly because of its closer proximity to 
the great glacier-hung peak of Tacoma — Rainier. 
Bellingham, 100 miles north of Seattle, claims 
" the most sunshine, the least rainfall and the 
coolest summer on Puget Sound." 

Winters are humid, but mild and equable, 
throughout the whole extent of the Northwest 
Coast. In Seattle and Portland it seldom freezes, 



28 THE TOURIST'S NORTHWEST 

the mean record for January being about 15° 
higher than in Chicago, which is geographically 
over 700 miles further south. 

The rainfall west of the Cascades varies in av- 
erage precipitation from 36 inches on Puget 
Sound to 133 inches at Glenora, on the coast of 
Oregon. Washingtonians jibe at their neigh- 
bours, call them 6i web-feet," and protest that time 
in Oregon is reckoned only in terms of the deluge. 
During the wet season, that is approximately 
November to April, nearly as much rain falls 
upon Portland as upon New York in a year, the 
normal annual precipitation being about 45 inches 
in both cases. The coastal rains, as official 
pamphlets are careful to explain, usually descend 
gently, without accompaniment of heavy thunder 
or cyclonic winds. Contrary to popular impres- 
sion, there are many pleasant or partly pleasant 
days during the winter, or rainy season. 

The dry bright summers of the Northwest are 
one of the region's chief inducements to travel. 
Outdoor excursions may be freely planned without 
proviso as to inclement weather. Most of the 
main highways are hard-surfaced, so that dust, the 
sole penalty of an all-sun and no-rain summer, is 
not a serious detraction from the pleasures of 
road touring. 

Across the Cascades, eastward from the Pacific, 
the rainfall is in some places less than 6 inches in 
a year. The reason given by weather scientists 
for this decline in the scale of humidity is that the 
prevailing west winds are forced upward, rarified 
and chilled in passing over high snowy ranges, 
and thus lose much of their moisture. 



CHAPTER II 

HOTELS — CUISINE — SPORTS 
AMUSEMENTS AND FESTIVALS 



The cities of the Northwest are distinguished by 
the number, size and modernity of their hotels. 
The Davenport at Spokane, outgrowth of a suc- 
cessful restaurant, has lately been constructed at 
a cost of millions, and is marked by individual 
characteristics which find favour with travellers. 
The new Washington Hotel, which succeeds a for- 
mer of the same name, occupies the site of a Seattle 
hill demolished within recent years by municipal 
edict. The Tacoma Hotel has long been estab- 
lished as a rendezvous for tourists in the terraced 
city down the Sound. Portland is fortunate in 
the possession of a hotel so elegant and so com- 
plete as the Benson, whose proprietor is a man of 
public spirit feted and honoured the length of the 
Coast for his unique benefactions. The Portland 
Hotel, of gracious court-yard and mellow memory, 
annually plays the host to large numbers of visi- 
tors. European rates prevail in principal hotels 
and range from $1 to $2.50 and up. Where 
rooms and meals are provided on the American 
plan the terms are from $3 a day upward. 

In each of the larger cities of the American 
Northwest there are several good and medium- 
class houses, with rates proportionate to their ac- 
commodation. At least one well-built hotel serves 



30 THE TOURIST'S NORTHWEST 

each of the tourist towns having an inferior popu- 
lation. 

Transients may also secure apartments in vari- 
ous cities at such establishments as the Wheeldon 
Annex, Portland, where charming little suites have 
house-keeping equipment, and where in an hour, 
with the aid of a resourceful management, the 
stranger finds himself installed amid comforts and 
conveniences which recall his own home. Under 
such auspices a party may find accommodation in 
a four-room apartment, with bath, closets and pri- 
vate hall, at a total lodging expense of but $3 to 
$4 a day. Smaller suites and single rooms are 
also available. The expense saved in preparing 
incidental meals in one's own kitchenette nearly 
equals the rent of such an apartment, and the 
markets of Northwestern communities offer tempt- 
ing products at low prices, throughout the four 
seasons. Certain streets are surrendered each 
week-end to the sidewalk and market stalls of ven- 
ders who produce the flowers, the fruits, the vege- 
tables, eggs, poultry, cheeses, preserves, and other 
delicacies they sell. 

Within recent years, since the Northwest began 
to consider seriously its touristic development, a 
number of attractive inns have been erected at 
mountain resorts, and overlooking highways, beau- 
tiful lakes, rivers and seas. As yet there has 
arisen no Frank Miller of the North to embody 
within the walls of a hotel regional sentiment and 
history, as has been done at Riverside, California, 
in the matchless Mission Inn. Sites there are 
a-plenty, possessing souvenirs of the Northwest a 
century or nearly a century old, to inspire with 
their high historic note architect and host. Pic- 



HOTELS — CUISINE — SPORTS 31 

ture the charm of a hotel somewhere on the River 
Spokane, on the Columbia or the Willamette, at 
Astoria near the sea, or on the southern shores 
of Puget Sound, whose exterior and interior were 
designed to reflect the customs, surroundings and 
life of settler and trapper. ... So far, imagina- 
tion has been lacking; a guest-house which re- 
creates the atmosphere of Northwestern pioneer 
days, as the Riverside casa recalls the epoch of the 
Spanish friars, remains for some practical dreamer 
to build. 

The hotels and chalets erected by Great North- 
ern interests in Glacier National Park reflect their 
surroundings in massive and rustic designs relat- 
ing to the forest. The main reception hall of the 
" Glacier Park," with its two tiers of balconies, 
is notable for the arrangement of supporting col- 
umns and beams, which are actually undressed fir 
trunks. The same rugged scheme is carried out in 
all the lobby furniture. Blankets of Indian weave 
and trophies of the chase are used as decoration. 
The Many Glacier Hotel is another forest lodge 
in this superb wilderness, fashioned of native tim- 
ber and occupying a narrow strip between Mount 
Allen and McDermott Lake. Several chalet 
groups, disposed among the mountains and water 
courses of the Park, invite the traveller to so- 
journ in comfort and at his leisure in an alpine 
environment unsurpassed on any continent. 

The rates at hotels in Glacier Park ascend from 
$4 a day, American plan; at the chalets, prices 
are a dollar a day less. 

Hotels, sportsmen's inns, camps and ranch 
houses provide housing for the tourist among the 
hills and lakes that so lavishly beautify the sec- 



32 THE TOURIST'S NORTHWEST 

tions of Washington and Idaho of which Spokane 
is the hub. The average rate at such stopping- 
places is $2 a day. 

A mountain hostelry of charming aspect is the 
Hotel Field at the upper end of Lake Chelan, in 
the Cascades. Near the summit of the Cascades, 
also on the Great Northern route, there is a hotel 
at Scenic ; on the line of the Chicago, Milwaukee 
and St. Paul Railroad and the Sunset Automobile 
Highway, is Keechelus Inn and its colony of tent- 
houses, overlooking mountain-bordered Lake 
Keechelus, just east of the divide. 

The most widely reputed alpine establishment 
on the Northwest coast is the hotel and thermal 
sanitarium of Sol Due, on the Olympic Peninsula 
between Puget Sound and the sea. Here supple- 
mental cottages and tents are at the disposal of 
guests. At Lake Crescent, Lake Cushman and 
Lake Quiniault, on the coast of the Peninsula, 
and on the idyllic shores of Hood Canal are numer- 
ous summer camps and hotels where food and lodg- 
ing and outdoor diversions are provided at $2.50 a 
day, or $12 to $15 by the week. 

Taverns more or less pretentious, and many 
boarding-houses serve vacationists and motorists 
who seek the highways and by-paths that thread 
the perpetually lovely country from Seattle 
northward to the frontier of Canada. Many de- 
lightful nooks on Whidbey Island and in the San 
Juan Archipelago hold hotels of homey charm. 

On the road between Tacoma and Rainier Park 
are several wayside retreats whose joint claims 
upon the attention of the passerby are amazing 
views and truly appetising menus of game, fish and 
chicken. Within the Reserve are the National 
Park Inn (American and European plans), and 



HOTELS — CUISINE — SPORTS 33 

Longmire's hotel at the Springs. The tent camps 
at Indian Henry's and Paradise Valley offer com- 
fortable quarters in the Park to mountaineer tour- 
ists at rates surprisingly low considering the 
exigencies of transportation. 

Washington holiday-makers have an especial 
fondness for resorts bordering Gray's Harbor 
and Willapa Harbor, and for the sea beaches 
which extend north and south of these inlets. In 
consequence many hotels, some of them but crude 
summer shacks, may be found up and down the 
coast of Southwestern Washington, from Moclips 
to Ilwaco, at the mouth of the Columbia. The 
average rate of these shore hotels is $2 a day. 

Back from the Columbia, between Vancouver, 
Washington and White Salmon, there are several 
camps and small hotels offering rustic accommo- 
dation for persons seeking the out-of-door life. 
At White Salmon are two frequented resorts, 
" The Eyrie," and Jewett's Farm, situated on the 
Columbia palisades, opposite Hood River, Ore- 
gon. From this point parties start inland to ex- 
plore the region about Mt. Adams. 

On the Oregon side of the river, Mt. Hood is the 
excuse-for-being of a bevy of inns at varying ele- 
vations. At Hood River one is genially enter- 
tained by Mrs. Howe, the mistress of Cottage 
Farm, where besides a hotel building there are 
cottages and tents. Mt. Hood Lodge is at an 
altitude of 2800 feet. Cloud Cap Inn, 6000 feet 
above sea level and 35 miles by road from Hood 
River village, perches on a northern spur of 
the mountain at the snow line, ten minutes from 
Eliot Glacier, source of the Hood River. A num- 
ber of other hotels and camps which attend the 
needs of the casual tourist or mountain-climber are 



34 THE TOURIST'S NORTHWEST 

clustered about the base of Mt. Hood at Rowe, 
Welches, Tawney's and Arrah Wannah. At some 
of these resorts there are log bungalows in con- 
nection with a central dining-hall. The prevailing 
rates are from $2.50 to $3 a day. 

Chanticleer Inn occupies a most fortunate site 
just off the Columbia Highway, above Rooster 
Rock. Very appropriately, chicken dinners, of 
excelling goodness, are the specialty of this road- 
house. Over-night and week-end guests are also 
accommodated. Other inns for rest and enjoy- 
ment overlook the river from the Columbia's cliffs. 

The principal Oregon beaches, Gearhart and Sea- 
side, and neighbouring resorts, are endowed with 
excellent vacation hotels. The Hotel Gearhart and 
the Hotel Moore (Seaside) are both large struc- 
tures situated directly on the beach, with a delight- 
ful environment of lawns, sport-fields and open 
meadow-lands. Rates here are $3 to $5 a day. 

Hotels, tent cities, and cottage colonies house 
thousands of merry-makers on the Oregon coast, 
from Astoria to Newport and Coos Bay. Fur- 
nished bungalows and camps, as well as camping 
sites, are for rent by the week or by the season at 
reasonable rates. 

South of Portland, the wayfarer who drives or 
tramps among the hills surprises likeable little 
houses in such places as Mehama, on the Santiam 
River, inland from Albany, at Mackenzie Bridge, 
on the Mackenzie River, 60 miles from Eugene, 
and elsewhere at springs and fishing-resorts. 

Crater Lake Lodge is the only hotel within the 
southern Oregon Government Reserve. There is 
also a camp five miles from the Crater's rim where 
guests are accommodated, and a store where camp- 
ers may buy provisions. Board and lodging at 



HOTELS — CUISINE — SPORTS 35 

both hotel and camp costs $3.25 a day. Tents 
furnished and unfurnished are to let, the former at 
$1 per day per person, the latter at $1 per day. 
Capitalists whose lumber interests in Klamath 
County necessitated long sojourns in this region 
south of Crater Lake, constructed the White Peli- 
can Hotel at Klamath Falls, primarily that they 
might themselves be luxuriously lodged. At the 
European plan rate of $1.50 per day and up, tour- 
ists and sportsmen share the delectable quarters 
provided by these unusual landlords. The same 
proprietors have taken over the handsome " camp " 
formerly owned by Mr. E. H. Harriman at the 
head of the Klamath Lake, and named it Harri- 
man Lodge. The building, supplied with all citi- 
fied comforts, stands beneath the shadow of Mt. 
Pitt on the water-edge among trees which also 
shelter a group of well-designed cabins. 

Cuisine and Products of the Northwest. 

The cuisine of the Northwest exhibits few individ- 
ual characteristics, but prolific varieties of native 
sea food, game, vegetables, fruit and berries enrich 
the table at all seasons. 

The Pacific Coast (Olympia) oyster is very small 
and strong-flavoured, but pleasing to the accus- 
tomed palate. A pan-roast of Toke Points, taken 
from the waters of Willapa Harbor, is especially 
esteemed. Clams, and particularly razor-clams 
which grow near the mouth of the Copalis River, 
Chehalis County, Washington, are delicious. 
Crawfish cooked in wine is a specialty of the Hof- 
brau-Quelle, Portland. Pre-eminent among shell- 
fish in this part of the world is the Dungeness crab, 
a giant and succulent species which is netted in the 



36 THE TOURIST'S NORTHWEST 

Strait of Juan de Fuca. The body not infre- 
quently measures eight or ten inches across, and 
the meat is extraordinarily sweet and fine-fibred. 

Fresh-water and sea trout are abundant, likewise 
halibut. Salmon of several varieties are taken in 
enormous quantities. As regards the flavour and 
grain of the flesh, however, the salmon of the Pacific 
is not comparable to that of the Atlantic streams. 

The meat of the Mongolian pheasant is counted 
the choicest viand in Oregon markets. Hood 
River apples are another Oregon specialty. So 
extravagant is the demand for the shiny beauties 
that they are said to have fetched a dollar apiece 
in European hotels. Monarchs and restaura- 
teurs command their monograms stencilled upon 
the crimson surface, this being accomplished by 
the aid of applied paper letters and the rays of the 
sun. Rogue River, Willamette, Wenatchee and 
Yakima Valley apples and cherries are also re- 
nowned. 

Semi-tropic fruits and nuts mature in favoured 
sections of southern Oregon. In the Willamette, 
Rogue and Umpqua Valleys is grown a prune of 
distinctive variety. The annual crop runs into 
millions of pounds. Among the foothills of the 
Cascades and the Coast Range, uncountable bush- 
els of wild berries are harvested each year. Both 
the cultivated and uncultivated berry-fields of Ore- 
gon and Washington yield many varieties, some of 
them unknown east of the Rockies. Chief among 
them are the red and yellow salmonberry, the blue 
and the tart red huckleberry, the wild raspberry 
and dewberry (ripe in September), the wild cur- 
rant, blackberry and white strawberry, the moun- 
tain grape, the yewberry, sarvisberry, manzanita, 
loganberry, salal and choke berry. The culti- 



HOTELS — CUISINE — SPORTS 37 

vated strawberries of Puget Sound Islands and in- 
terior irrigated valleys of Washington and Ore- 
gon, the raspberries of Puyallup, near Tacoma, 
and the blackberries of Clatsop Plains, Oregon, are 
particularly luscious. The loganberry, a grafted 
product, has of late years been canned in great 
quantities, being too tart to eat without a sweet 
syrup. Its juice is also bottled, the flavour rival- 
ling that of the grape. 

The temperateness of the West Coast winter en- 
courages the outdoor growth of small fruits and 
green vegetables until late in the year. 

Sports. 

Hunting and Fishing Licenses. 

Washington: For each county (payable to 
County Auditor) resident, $1.00; non-resident, 
$5.00 ; alien, $50.00. For state (payable to State 
Auditor) resident $5.00; non-resident, $10.00; 
alien, $50.00. 

The office of the State Game and Fish Commis- 
sioner is located at Bellingham, Wash. 

Oregon: Resident Hunter's License $1.00 per 
year; Non-Resident Hunter's License, $10.00 
per year. Resident or Non-Resident Angler's 
License, $1.00 per year. 

The office of the State Game and Fish Commis- 
sioner is at Portland, Oregon. 

Idaho: Resident licenses, which also entitles 
holder to hunt, $1.00 ; non-resident or alien license, 
$2.00. 

The office of the State Game and Fish Warden 
is located at Boise, Idaho. 

Montana: It is required that all persons who 
desire to hunt and fish procure a license, the cost 



38 THE TOURIST'S NORTHWEST 

of which for a resident is $1.00 ; for non-resident 
(divided in 3 classes), the "General," $25.00, 
which entitles the holder to hunt large and small 
game and to fish ; the " Limited," $10.00, which 
entitles holder to hunt small or feathered game 
and to fish; "Fishing," $1.00, which entitles the 
holder to fish only. This fee applies to United 
States citizens who have resided in Montana for 
the six months last past. United States citizens 
who have not resided in the State for the six 
months last past, $2. Any person who is not a 
citizen of the United States is entitled to an alien 
license, which is divided in three classes, same as 
non-resident's license, and costs $25.00, $10.00, 
and $5.00 respectively. 

The office of the State Game and Fish Warden is 
located at Helena, Montana. 

It is recommended that application be made to 
state wardens for free copies of complete Game 
and Fish Laws, referring to seasons, bag limits, 
bounties, penalties, transportation and special pro- 
visions. The Chicago, Milwaukee and St. Paul, 
Southern Pacific, Spokane, Portland and Seattle, 
and other railways also issue folders concerning 
laws governing sport in the Northwest and lo- 
calities reputed for their game and fish. 

The huge area still untamed in the northwestern 
section of the United States constitutes a natural 
game preserve whose moors, uplands and moun- 
tains teem with wild creatures, and whose legions 
of streams are the habitation of finny hordes. To 
name all the districts where the sportsman's re- 
ward is sure would be to create a gazetteer of each 
State. Even the most populous city is figura- 
tively but the length of rod or gun from some realm 
where bags and creels are speedily filled to the 



HOTELS — CUISINE — SPORTS 39 

rim. Seventy-five Dolly Varden trout (30 to 35 
inches) is in Oregon the legal limit of a day's fish- 
ing per person. 

The rivers, lakes and salt water inlets of Wash- 
ington and Oregon yield Chinook, Steel-head, Blue- 
back, Silver-side and other species of salmon ; also 
salmon trout, Kelp, Rainbow, Cut-throat, Dolly 
Varden, Loch Levin, Beardsley and Eastern brook 
trout; bass, perch, pickerel, pike, flounder, cod, 
pogies and croppies, char, cat and white fish. 

The Skykomish River in northwestern Washing- 
ton is known for the size and gaminess of its trout, 
likewise the Snake River of Idaho and Washington, 
the Deschutes and the McKenzie in Oregon, and in 
general all the streams which flow down the slopes 
of the Cascades, and into the Pacific from the Coast 
and Olympic Ranges. Rainbow trout weighing 
more than 20 pounds have been taken from creeks 
tributary to Klamath Lake. Puget Sound and 
the Columbia synonymise salmon to the angler. 
Below the falls of the Willamette River, Chinook 
salmon are caught which weigh 50 pounds and 
heavier. The Spokane River, and the half hun- 
dred lakes and hundreds of streams contiguous to 
Spokane in Washington and Idaho, abound in 
sportive trout, perch and bass. 1 

Trout, greyling and black bass are among the 
species of fish to be hooked in Montana waters. 
Bull trout are indigenous to St. Mary Lake, 
Glacier National Park ; the Mackinaw trout may 
be caught up to 18 or 20 pounds weight. All the 
Park lakes afford good fishing. As everywhere in 
National Parks, hunting is forbidden. 

i For details as to localities and routes, see the illus- 
trated folder issued by the Spokane Chamber of Com- 
merce. 



40 THE TOURIST'S NORTHWEST 

The game animals of the Northwest include deer, 
ibex, caribou, moose, mountain sheep and goat, 
antelope, bear, cougar, wild cat, wolf, timber wolf, 
bobcat and lynx. Elk and deer are particularly 
plentiful amid the wilds of the Olympic peninsula, 
and the Yaquina and Mohawk River country of 
Oregon. Mountain goats and cougars are sought 
on the upper slopes of the Cascades, Lake Chelan 
being the centre of a good hunting ground. There 
are said to be more bear in southern Oregon than 
in any other part of the Union, due partly to the 
abundance of wild berries growing in the moun- 
tains. 

Of the lesser animals to be hunted and trapped 
there are the mink, martin, beaver, otter, skunk, 
coon, coyote, badger, ring-tailed cat, muskrat and 
squirrel. 

Wild fowl are numerous and of varied families, 
both native and foreign. Concerning the re- 
sources of the Willamette Valley, the Game War- 
den of Oregon says, 

" In no other region in the United States can one 
find such a variety and number of game birds. 
The sooty grouse, sometimes called the blue grouse 
or hooter, is common where the fir timber sur- 
rounds the grain fields. This is a bird that lives 
on grain and weed seed during the summer, but in 
winter stays well up in the fir trees where it lives 
mostly on buds. The ruffed grouse or native 
pheasant is everywhere a bird of the thick cover. 
It is found almost entirely in crab-apple thickets 
and alder swamps. Our mountain quail is abun- 
dant all through Western Oregon, a bird that likes 
wood patches, the brush heaps and the surround- 
ing fields. The bob-white is the quail of the East- 
ern States introduced years ago in the Willamette 



HOTELS — CUISINE — SPORTS 41 

Valley and is now very abundant in certain re- 
gions. The California quail was introduced into 
the Willamette Valley from southern Oregon and 
the Hungarian partridge from Europe. Both 
species have multiplied rapidly. In certain dis- 
tricts the Reeves pheasant is breeding in the wild 
state. 

" The real game bird that has made the Willam- 
ette Valley famous to sportsmen the world over is 
the Chinese, ring-necked or Denny pheasant. He 
is a fully naturalised citizen. He was introduced 
here in the early eighties. He has thrived in his 
new environment better than our native game birds 
and is now more abundant than any other species. 
No other place in the United States has proved 
such a favourable home for this bird as the Wil- 
lamette Valley. This is because of the good me- 
dium climate that is not too hot in summer nor too 
cold in winter. It is a land of many gardens and 
grain fields where birds find food abundant in sum- 
mer and winter. It is a land of wood patches 
where birds never fail to find cover. The Chinese 
pheasant has learned to make the best of his en- 
vironment here in Oregon." 

The Chinese or Mongolian pheasant has been 
called " the most beautiful of all game birds." 
With the quail, partridge, ruffed and blue grouse, 
sage hen and prairie chicken, it is hunted on the 
heaths of nearly every part of Oregon and Wash- 
ington. 

Snipe, woodcock, curlew, plover, brant, ducks and 
geese, infest the shores of both States. The Kla- 
math marshes and lakes are the home of swarms of 
ducks, geese, pelicans, cranes, herons, cormorants 
and swans. Water-fowl are so partial to the 
swampy tracts of Southern Oregon that a Federal 



42 THE TOURIST'S NORTHWEST 

preserve exists for their protection on Lower Kla- 
math Lake. 

Mountaineering. 

Guides and climbing outfits are supplied at inns 
and camps adjacent to principal peaks. The 
charge for guides varies according to the number 
in the party and the duration of the trip. 

There are three organisations in the Northwest 
of large membership, whose foundation motive is 
the promotion of mountain knowledge. 

Following the disbandment of the Oregon Alpine 
Club, first organised in 1887, a company of two 
hundred climbers founded the Mazama Club in 
1894, on the summit of Mt. Hood. The name is 
Spanish for a particularly agile mountain goat. 
Applicants for membership in this Oregon society 
must attain the crest of a perpetual snowcap, up 
whose sides it is impossible to ride. Novices are 
sometimes invited to join the camp held yearly for 
two weeks at the base of some mountain of the 
Northwest, chosen for the summer climb. 

The Mazamas were the first to make known 
Crater Lake to climbers and tourists. Their 
leader upon the occasion of the initial expedition 
was William Gladstone Steele, who influenced the 
establishment of the National Park. The moun- 
tain whose hollowed crest holds Crater Lake bears 
the name of the Club. 

The Mountaineers of Seattle formed their asso- 
ciation in 1907. Mt. Rainier has been the par- 
ticular object of their exploration and exploita- 
tion, though on the occasion of the annual summer 
camp, other peaks of the Northern Sierra have 
also been climbed. According to the by-laws, 
"Any person of good character, seventeen years 



HOTELS — CUISINE — SPORTS 43 

of age or over, who is in sympathy with the objects 
of this organisation is eligible for membership." 
On the outings, all members of the Club party are 
encouraged to qualify as true craftsmen of the 
mountains. 

Youngest of the three organisations is the Mt. 
Baker Club, instituted at Bellingham in 1911 by 
thirty-three graduates of that gruelling course 
which leads to the brow of the grand and lonely 
Patriarch of the North. Many hundred members 
are now enrolled whose aim is to acquaint them- 
selves, the State and the Nation with the glories of 
their eleven thousand foot mountain, and to bring 
to pass the creation of the Mt. Baker National 
Park. 

In the year of its founding, the Club conceived a 
project of daring novelty whose avowed purpose 
was the advertisement of Mt. Baker and the Mt. 
Baker district. It was proposed that a race of 
one hundred miles be run from Bellingham to the 
summit, and back to Bellingham, — two-thirds of 
the distance to be accomplished by train or auto- 
mobile, and one- third on foot. A prize of $100 in 
gold and a trophy were offered to the first man 
returning to the Chamber of Commerce and sign- 
ing the Book of the Marathon. For three succes- 
sive years, beginning in 1911, this test of thew 
and sinew, heart, wind and fortitude was staged 
on the plain between sea and mountain-base and 
up the sides of the giant Alp to its topmost spur. 
Of the three races, the best time was made in the 
final one, when Harry Westerlund accomplished 
the distance in nine and a half hours. After 1913 
the Marathon was annulled because of the perils it 
was found to entail — perils of crevasse and storm 
and racing wheels. The Mount Baker Marathon 



44 THE TOURIST'S NORTHWEST 

has passed into tradition, probably never to be re- 
vived as a sporting event. But the hundreds who 
in years to come scale the rugged flanks and per- 
haps achieve the summit can never be indifferent 
to the memory of the stalwarts who fought their 
good fight in this trial of snow and ice endurance. 
As a matter of record, it is interesting to set 
down here an abridged description of the final 
Marathon, written by an eye-witness for The 
Seattle Post-Intelligencer. 

" At 4 o'clock, the morning of August 15, every 
mill whistle in Bellingham started an inferno of 
sound which must have awakened almost the entire 
population and summoned more than 5000 of the 
more enthusiastic to the starting places of the 
race. 

" On Railroad Avenue a Bellingham & Northern 
special stood, fretting for the signal. Two 
squares away three automobiles, stripped to a 
framework, popped and snorted. 

" At one minute past the hour the train got away 
with a scream. A half-mile away, at a street in- 
tersection, it had reached a speed of sixty miles 
an hour. Like a roaring devil it leaped from town 
to country and from countryside to wilderness. 

" Four minutes later the automobiles were off in 
a bunch, and the crowd had scarcely found breath 
to cheer before their rapid-fire exhaust had faded 
in the distance. 

" So the race began. 

• •••••• 

" For twenty-four hours it had stormed without 
let-up. We were camped under a little canvas 
shelter at Hann Lake, 7000 feet high — four of 



HOTELS — CUISINE — SPORTS 45 

us. When it was not snowing the fog rolled in, 
and when the fog lifted it snowed again. 

" From behind the white veil which shrouded the 
mysteries of the giant peak came an intermittent 
thunder, at times a faint murmur, again an earth- 
shaking roar. Avalanches were sweeping down, 
walls of ice were falling from the glaciers, crevas- 
ses were opening with the rapidity of exploding 
dynamite. The mountain was in an agony. 

" Sometimes the clouds would blow back to re- 
veal the ebony cliffs of the black buttes, which 
tower 2000 feet above Deming Glacier. From a 
cliff top 1000 feet above we could drop pebbles 
onto the face of the great ice river. 

" A gale howled up the deep canyon below, 
though not a breath of wind stirred at the cliff 
top. As a puff of its breath tore apart the white 
veil the black cliffs opposite would start forth, 
stark naked rock, powdered at the top with a 
frosting of new snow. 

" Chisels of ice have carved them down sheer 
with an infinite world-old cunning and patience — 
a force the human mind cannot conceive. Black 
sentinels they stand, bounding a river of white 
glacier. Above where the ice tumbles from the 
precipices its chaotic cliffs gleamed occasionally 
in blue flame. 

" Then in the passage of a moment the clouds 
would shift again and the world was bounded by a 
horizon of dead white not twenty feet away. 

" And into that hell of cold plunged seven men, 
clad in gymnasium suits, barelegged except for 
calked shoes. 

" The trail from Heisler's ranch on the west slope 
was soaked by days of pelting rain. In many 
places it was more a ditch than a trail. Mud lay 



46 THE TOURIST'S NORTHWEST 

knee-deep along it, and travel had carved out its 
sides between the roots of trees, leaving no choice 
of footing. 

" It is no level trail through forest. It is ever 
climbing or descending, zigzagging over the slopes, 
crossing smaller streams by a single log. The last 
couple of miles it makes a heart-breaking climb up 
a mountain. 

" The men who went by automobile reached the 
foot of this track in fifty-five minutes. They 
started into the forest at 5:55 o'clock in the 
morning, and at 8 :39 o'clock Westerlund had cov- 
ered fourteen miles. Two minutes behind him 
came his nearest competitor, Joe Frankoviz. 
Both of these men passed up the steepest of the 
path at a heart-breaking stride, not even winded. 

" Westerlund, the winner of the run, leaped from 
the train at Bellingham at 2:39 in the afternoon, 
fresh and smiling. He paced two blocks to the 
Chamber of Commerce without apparent effort. 

" Clean living and hard training counted in that 
run. 

" The Mount Baker Club, of Bellingham, made 
no mistake when it adopted this thrilling out-of- 
door adventure to advertise Whatcom County's 
peak. 

" Of the mountain which it advertises, it is im- 
possible to speak calmly. Mere description means 
little to those who cannot or will not see for them- 
selves. 

" Already several good trails take the visitor to 
the snow line from various approaches. The 
tourists pass through a wonderland of untouched 
timber, great cedars and firs and hemlocks of 
amazing girth and splendid mien, immense water- 



HOTELS — CUISINE — SPORTS 47 

falls, glacial streams abounding in game fish, moun- 
tain parks carpeted with red and white heather, 
and a bewildering catalogue of rare and beautiful 
flowers, views which appall by their significance, 
all the joys of camp life; these are the attrac- 
tions. 

" It will not be many years until the Club accom- 
plishes its chief ambition. Mount Baker will be 
made a national park. Good roads will be built, 
and once they are, the tourists will come. One 
cannot hide the light of that shining peak under 
any common bushel ! " 

Winter Sports — Motor-boating and Yachting — Golf. 

The proximity of sierra and forest to thickly 
populated communities is conducive to widespread 
indulgence in every sort of winter game. In addi- 
tion, the influence of the Scandinavian in the 
Northwest is strong, and ski-ing contests organ- 
ised by these snow-loving Northerners are popu- 
lar events. There is perfect M riding " in Para- 
dise Park, on the slopes of Mt. Rainier. Parties 
go by motor to mountain lakes for skating car- 
nivals, hockey and tobogganing. 

To accommodate winter sportsmen, certain inns 
in the Olympics and Cascades keep their doors 
open all during the frosty season. 

The mercury so rarely drops below the freezing 
point in cities near the coast that skating is done 
under cover in Ice Hippodromes. The one at 
Portland is of great size, and witnessess many ex- 
citing inter-state and international competitions. 

Motor-boating is the premier sport of the region 
bordering Puget Sound. All-the-year cruising is 
possible, and every week-end fleets of speedy little 
power-boats, well-stocked with provisions and 



48 THE TOURIST'S NORTHWEST 

camp utensils, skim away to favourite nooks, be 
the month June or December. Annual regattas 
and distance races receive enthusiastic attention. 
The Puget Sound championship races are open to 
entrants from both the United States and Canada. 
A power-boat race from Seattle to Ketchikan, 
Alaska, is an annual event. 

Gasoline cruisers may be hired for a month, 
with captain, deck-hand and cook, provisions and 
fuel, at $50 each for a party of ten. The waters 
of the Sound and of isle-sheltered passages to the 
north are ever tranquil, and so deep inshore that 
1000-mile voyages may be made in safety. The 
round trip of 2000 miles from Seattle to southern 
Alaska and back has been accomplished by motor- 
boat in eighteen days. 

The membership of the Seattle Yacht Club in- 
cludes owners of splendid 100-foot gas-driven ves- 
sels, whose fleetness and luxury would mark them 
for comment in any waters. The Oregon Yacht 
Club and the Portland Motor Boat Club are also 
flourishing organisations. 

Various charming rivers and inlets up and down 
the coast are the anchorages of trim house-boats, 
some of which may be rented by the week or season. 

The use of municipal golf links in the suburbs of 
principal towns, and often in connection with the 
resort hotels, is granted to visiting golfers. Pri- 
vate clubs also extend courtesies to properly ac- 
credited persons. Among many others, the links 
at the Spokane Country Club, at the club on Hay- 
den Lake, at the two clubs of Portland, at Gearhart 
Beach, at the Seattle Golf and Country Club and 
at the Tacoma Club on American Lake are all well 
laid out and well-maintained, and golfing is en- 
joyed throughout the year. 



HOTELS — CUISINE — SPORTS 49 

Amusements and Festivals. 

The communities of the Northwest give prover- 
bially good patronage to theatrical and musical 
attractions. Even in some remote places there 
are theatre buildings which would do credit to 
much larger cities. Portland, Tacoma, Spokane 
and Seattle (note especially the Orpheum) have 
first-class houses where current road attractions, 
repertory, vaudeville and motion pictures are seen, 
and have, besides, elaborate amusement parks on 
the outskirts. Each of these cities supports sing- 
ing and orchestral organisations of unusual merit. 
The Portland Orchestra and Police Band, the 
Amphion singers and Symphony Orchestra of 
Seattle, and the Davenport-Engberg Orchestra of 
Bellingham are notable examples. The Belling- 
ham association was founded by Mrs. Engberg in 
1912 and has now nearly one hundred members. 
Annual symphonic concerts enlist the services of 
some soloist internationally known. 

Water carnivals enliven the summer season at 
lake and ocean resorts. The aquatic spectacles 
presented each year at Hayden Lake, near Spo- 
kane, and at Lake Washington, Seattle, are espe- 
cially elaborate. The parades and tourneys of 
Seattle's Golden Potlatch, which reflects aboriginal 
traditions, engross the country-round for a week 
in each July. In the same month Salem, Oregon, 
has its Cherry Fair. A play-monarch reigns each 
fall over the National Apple Show at Spokane. 
Tacoma has two summer festivals, the Rose Car- 
nival and a School Children's Celebration held in 
a great stadium on the heights. The Wenatchee 
Valley has its " Fair Hesperides," the Yakima Val- 
ley its Spring Blossom Festival and its Indian 



50 THE TOURIST'S NORTHWEST 

Round-ups, Walla Walla its May Day Festival 
and September Frontier Celebration, Browning, 
Montana, its annual Medicine Lodge of the Black- 
feet in July, and the Blackfeet Fair in September. 
Hop-picking festivities and county fairs make 
merry the early days of autumn. In September 
the Riddle Rod and Gun Club is host at a Venison 
Barbecue near Roseburg, Oregon. Marksmen's 
contests, log-rolling, fly-casting and dancing 
make up the programme. Four thousand visi- 
tors feasted on twenty barbecued bucks at the 
1915 celebration. 

Astoria signalises the close of each fishing-season 
by a regatta in which neighbouring cities are in- 
vited to join. This " biggest nautical event on the 
Coast " comprises every sort of water sport — 
yacht, launch, canoe and fishing-boat races, surf- 
riding, swimming, diving and water polo, besides 
marine processions, a ball at which the dancers 
wear nautical costumes, and daily parades and 
manoeuvres on land. 

Established on an annual basis since 1907, Port- 
land's Rose Festival constitutes this delightful 
city's best advertising medium. Funds for the 
carnival are popularly subscribed, and all the west- 
ern counties of the State unite in making this the 
most sumptuous thing of its kind in the Oregon 
Year. For half a week in June, some sort of di- 
version is scheduled for every hour from morn till 
midnight. Bands play and choral clubs sing; on 
the greens are children dancing; the story, tradi- 
tions and progress of the Northwest are celebrated 
by brilliantly contrived floats in a gala procession ; 
vehicles twined with the municipal flower compete 
for prizes, and throughout the whole high-coloured 



HOTELS — CUISINE — SPORTS 51 

celebration there is an exhibition of the glorious 
roses that have made Portland so famous. 

Pendleton in northeastern Oregon yearned for a 
city park to ease the stress of treeless and too-con- 
stant plains, but lacked the funds for the making 
of such a playground. On near-by cattle-ranges, 
the round-ups of spring and fall had for years 
been succeeded by unbridled exhibitions of horse- 
mastery. These equestrian tournaments had pro- 
gressed from localised cowboy larks to more for- 
mal inter-ranch competitions, when the Pendleton 
Commercial Association was gripped by the idea 
of assembling in the market-town of the Oregon 
cattle country the plainsmen and girls, with their 
ponies and steers, for a three-day frontier carni- 
val which all who paid might see. In 1910, a few 
thousand spectators came. In 1916 more than 
50,000 will be quartered on the thriving hospitable 
town, whose population on 362 days of the year is 
less than nine thousand. Other communities of the 
Northwest know the thrill of the Round-up Show, 
but only Pendleton has developed the range-riders' 
gymkhana to a festival of national fame and im- 
portance. Regulations concerning order and con- 
duct are strict ; no one showing the effects of liquor 
can assist in any event. But jollity and good hu- 
mour reign supreme. Hotels, boarding-houses, 
and Pullman sleepers take care of the crowds who 
each September, toward the end of the month, 
turn their faces toward the Mecca of the Buckaroo. 

Prices for seats at the Pendleton Round-up are 
as follows: Grandstand seats, reserved by num- 
ber, $1 each for each day's show, no reduction 
for all three days ; box seats, reserved by number 
(chairs in railed-in enclosures nearest the track), 



52 THE TOURIST'S NORTHWEST 

$1.50 each for each day, no reduction for season ; 
bleacher seats, no reservation, 75 cents for each 
day; forenoon tryouts, general admission to any 
seats without reservation, 25 cents. To Happy 
Canyon, the evening entertainment which has been 
staged during the past two Round-ups at the cor- 
ner of Main and Railroad Streets, general admis- 
sion, without reservation, 25 cents. 

Elimination races are scheduled for the first two 
days, championship contests for the last day. The 
prizes offered cowboys and girls, Indians and their 
squaws, and stage-drivers are saddles exquisitely 
carved and silver inlaid, money, trophies, beaver 
hats, silk mufflers, bridles, bits, spurs, chaps, whips 
and lariats. A gold and silver belt is given each 
year to the cowboy who points highest in the prin- 
cipal events open to men. The programme in- 
cludes half-mile pony races, ridden by cowboys 
and girls and by full-blooded Indians ; three-day 
relay races against time, " no cinche barred " ; 
steer bull-dogging, in which contest the man must 
throw the beast with bare hands and not touch 
teeth to lips until steer is down flat on the ground 
on his side, after which steer must be held by lip, 
and hands released — time limit two minutes, best 
time for three days wins ; bucking contests for men 
and women, mounted on horses drawn by lot and 
ridden with plain halter; four-horse chariot race; 
standing races ; quick change race ; stage coach and 
pony express races; rope-spinning contests, and 
finally the wild horse race, for which unbroken 
range horses, ignorant of " leather," are furnished 
by the management. With this demonstration of 
the riders' ability to control outlaws never before 
mounted and of an ingenious deviltry surpassing 
description, the fiesta closes. " A page out of 



HOTELS — CUISINE — SPORTS 53 

history has been seen, a scene from the vanishing 
West impressed." In the City of Happy Canyon 
the visitors spend their evenings, learning how a 
wild west town looked and acted sixty years ago. 
The management guarantees a thrill every half- 
minute in the Canyon arena, and everywhere are 
relics and reminders of a time when Pendleton was 
" woolliest " of all the settlements in the North- 
west. 

The Round-up is a communistic endeavour. Of- 
ficials give their services without remuneration. 
All the profits of the festival go into the town 
treasury. New exhibition grounds, a huge grand- 
stand and a free natatorium are cited to prove 
that in Pendleton it pays to " Let 'er buck." 



CHAPTER III 

CHRONOLOGY 



Ethnologists commonly agree that the western 
coast of the American Continent was once populous 
with the races of the Orient — Polynesians, Ma- 
lays, Birmans, Chinese, Japanese, Hindoos and 
Tatars, who as navigators were transported 
thither " by winds, waves and stress of weather," 
or came upon intended trading expeditions. 

Josiah Priest of Albany, N. Y., published in 1833 
a compilation of facts relating to American An- 
tiquities and Discoveries in the West, founded 
upon copious research among the files of Antiqua- 
rian Societies. He describes the discovery by 
Spaniards of a native town having Mongolian 
characteristics, which was situated "on the bank 
of a river running into the Pacific from the terri- 
tory now called Oregon." The inhabitants called 
the settlement Talomeco, and there " Hernando 
Soto was dined by a cacique named Guachaia," 
whose servants " stood in a row with their backs 
against the wall in Eastern fashion. The prin- 
cipal pride and grandeur of this people consisted 
in their temple ... a hundred paces long and 
forty wide. . . . There were twelve wooden statues 
of gigantic size with menacing and savage faces. 
. . . The cornice in the temple was ornamented 

with large shells mingled with pearls. ... In 

54 



CHRONOLOGY 55 

coffers and baskets the Spaniards found ... so 
many pearls that they distributed them among 
the officers and soldiers by handfulls. 

" The remains of cities and towns of an ancient 
population," continues our author, " exist every- 
where on the coast of the Pacific, which agree in 
fashion with the works and ruins found along the 
Chinese coasts, exactly west from the western limits 
of North America, showing beyond all dispute that 
in ancient times the countries were known to each 
other, and voyages were reciprocally made." Ra- 
finesque, the antiquarian, is quoted : " The exact 
time when the Chinese first discovered or reached 
America is not given in their books, but it was 
known to them and to the Japanese, at a very 
early period, and called by them Fu Sham, and fre- 
quented for trade. But who were here for them 
to trade with? Our answer is, those first inhabi- 
tants, the white, the red, and the black, the sons of 
the sons of Noah, Shem, Ham and Japheth, who 
got onto the Continent before it was severed from 
Asia and Africa, in the days of Peleg, one or two 
hundred years after the flood of Noah." 

Which all goes back much further than the im- 
agination of most of us can follow. However, an 
incident of the fall of 1915, chronicled in the press 
of the Northwest, demonstrates the facility with 
which Orientals may even to-day be unwittingly 
brought to American shores. A Japanese vessel, 
dismasted in a gale off the coast of Japan, was 
blown to sea. After forty-eight days three cast- 
aways who had been subsisting on rain water and 
scant portions of food, were succoured on one of 
the Queen Charlotte Islands, off the coast of Brit- 
ish Columbia. 

Spanish, Portuguese and Danish adventurers 



56 THE TOURIST'S NORTHWEST 

were the first white men to navigate the waters of 
the Pacific Northwest. In 1774, Juan Perez 
sailed from Monterey in the then Spanish 
colony of California, to claim for his country 
whatever lands might lie to the northward, as far 
as 60° latitude, where the Russians were known 
to be already established. The Spanish navi- 
gator attained the shores of lower Alaska, 
several degrees south of his goal, and on his re- 
turn to California called in a harbour which was 
later to be known as Nootka Sound, on the west 
coast of Vancouver Island. Bold headlands and 
low-lying meadows were visible from the deck of 
the Santiago as Perez coasted southward, but from 
Captain Heceta, who sailed north in the same ves- 
sel a year later, we have a description of a definite 
place on this foreign shore. He ran close to " a 
bay with strong eddies and currents, indicating 
the mouth of a large river or strait," which was in 
fact the estuary of the continental stream known 
to early travellers as the River of the West, and 
called by the Spanish, the Rio St. Roc. Heceta 
and his companion, Commander Quadra, formally 
claimed for Spain the Pacific Coast as far north 
as Sitka, Alaska. 

In 1776 began a period of English discovery and 
exploration along the Northwest Coast, inaugu- 
rated by the expedition headed by Captain Cook, 
who was under charge to find a northern passage 
from the Pacific to the Atlantic. Cook had al- 
ready discovered New Zealand and the Sandwich 
Islands. A biographer writing the introduction to 
the explorer's Voyages, published in 1785, de- 
scribes this intrepid man of deeds as " cool and de- 
liberate in judging: sagacious in determining: . . . 
unsubdued by labour, difficulties and disappoint- 



CHRONOLOGY 57 

ment: fertile in expedients: . . . always posses- 
sing himself and the full use of a sound under- 
standing." The great captain first approached 
the coast of present-day Oregon near Heceta Head, 
and followed the course of his Spanish predeces- 
sors to Nootka Sound, so named by him, and to 
Sitka Bay, from where he proceeded as far as Cook 
Inlet and Cape North. Cook had thus " com- 
pleted the work which Balboa began. The map of 
the western coast line of our continent had been 
traced, amid mighty perils by sea and shore, test- 
ing the valour of seven generations." 1 

In 1788, Lieutenant Meares voyaged from 
Nootka, passed the Strait of Juan de Fuca, and 
named Mt. Olympus. Foiled in his effort to trace 
the river mouth reported by Heceta, he called a 
promontory which actually flanked it, Cape Dis- 
appointment, and a bight through which the river 
flowed, Deception Bay. 

After the death of Captain Cook at the hands 
of Hawaiian natives in 1779, a youth named 
George Vancouver, who had accompanied him on 
the last two of his three voyages in the Pacific, 
received a commission to continue his command- 
er's explorations. He was of service to his coun- 
try at Nootka, in 1792, following a belligerent 
controversy concerning the respective rights of 
the British and Spanish in that harbour. In the 
same year Captain Vancouver discovered a great 
arm of the sea, which he named for Lieutenant 
Peter Puget, one of his officers. Members of Van- 
couver's crews were the first white men known to 
have seen Mt. Rainier and Mt. Baker. In the 
name of King George III, all the newly discovered 

* Joseph Schafer in his History of the Pacific Northwest. 



58 THE TOURIST'S NORTHWEST, 

territory bordering Puget Sound was baptised 
New Georgia. 

Another discovery, and one long deferred, made 
the year of 1792 a red letter date in the calendar 
of west coast exploration. Ships of all nations, 
attracted by the Eldorado of the northwestern fur 
country, were turning their prows in increasing 
numbers toward Nootka, on Vancouver's Island. 
One which left Boston in 1791 was called the 
Columbia, Its Yankee skipper, Captain Gray, 
coasting south after wintering in the harbour of 
Clayoquot, came in the month of May to the wide- 
mouthed inlet reported by Heceta. Being more 
inquisitive or more enterprising than Spaniards 
and Britons who had gone before, he pointed in- 
land and arrived at the bar of a broad-flowing 
river, up which he later sailed for thirty-five miles. 

Thus it was a Boston trader who determined be- 
yond dispute the outlet of this fabled stream, 
whose existence was bruited among the Spanish as 
early as 1570, and known to them under the In- 
dian name of Tizan in 1606. Eighty years later, 
voyagers in the interior of the continent heard from 
the aborigines of " a great river running to the 
west." Another eighty years passed, and Jona- 
than Carver, a captain of provincial troops in 
America, undertook his historic journey from Bos- 
ton to St. Paul. During the winter of 1767 he 
camped with a band of Sioux Indians and from 
them learned " that the four most capital rivers 
on continental North America, viz. : the St. Law- 
rence, the Mississippi, the River Bourbon and the 
Oregon or the River of the West . . . have their 
sources in the same neighbourhood." Probably 
the word Oregon, which Carver was the first to put 
in print, is not spelled exactly as the Indians pro- 



CHRONOLOGY 59 

nounced it. It is suggested that its origin may 
have been the Algonquin word, Wau-re-gan, 
" beautiful water." Joaquin Miller thinks the 
name had " rounded down phonetically from a 
phrase bestowed by Portuguese navigators, ' Hear 
the waters,' aure il agua, to or-agua, or-a-gon, 
Oregon." 

Captain Gray, first white man to enter the river, 
called it for his vessel, the Columbia. The first ex- 
ploration of the lower reaches was made in Oc- 
tober of 1792 by Lieutenant Broughton, who com- 
manded one of Vancouver's two vessels. 

Nine years before Gray's discovery, Thomas Jef- 
ferson had evinced his interest in a transcontinen- 
tal expedition under American leadership, to offset 
certain proposed activities of England to explore 
" the country from the Mississippi to California." 
At that time the Mississippi marked the limits of 
the United States. Soon after Jefferson became 
President he began two important negotiations. 
He proposed to France that the United States buy 
the territory formerly owned by Spain, extending 
from the Gulf of Mexico to a line running west of 
the Lake of the Woods; and he recommended to 
Congress in January, 1803, that a party be organ- 
ised to explore an overland route to the Western 
Ocean, and " have conferences with the natives on 
the subject of commercial intercourse." The last 
proposal, as Professor Schafer points out, was the 
one first matured, though it is the common under- 
standing that the expedition undertaken by Meri- 
wether Lewis and William Clark was not conceived 
until after the Louisiana Purchase was completed 
in 1803. 

It was not until 1804, however, that the two young 
officers, Lewis and Clark, set out from St. Louis in 



60 THE TOURIST'S NORTHWEST 

command of a company of thirty soldiers who had 
been chosen for the overland journey. 

Undiscouraged by strange and perilous incidents, 
the adventurers ascended the Missouri, crossed the 
plains to the Rockies, traversed this mighty range 
by heretofore untrodden passes, discovered and 
explored the upper waters of the Columbia, and 
followed it to the Pacific Ocean. The winter of 
1804-5 was spent south of the river's mouth, at 
Fort Clatsop. By the following autumn, Cap- 
tain Lewis had returned to Washington and re- 
ported to his patron the results of this first trans- 
continental journey undertaken by Americans. 2 

All the territory which now comprises Oregon, 
Washington and Idaho was until Washington's 
secession designated as the Oregon Country. No 
nation had established an exclusive claim to pro- 
prietorship. 

In the year 1811, the Pacific Fur Company, 
sponsored by John Jacob Astor, the German- 
American merchant, founded a trading-post at the 
mouth of the Columbia, and called this first Ameri- 
can settlement on the Pacific Coast, Astoria. 
Similar centres for trafficking in fur were estab- 
lished in the Oregon Country by the Hudson's Bay 
and Northwest Trading Companies. The war of 
1812 accomplished the defeat of Astor's plans on 
the Columbia, and left the British in territorial 
possession until 1818, when a provisional treaty 
of joint occupancy was signed, giving to both na- 
tions equal rights in respect to trade and colonisa- 
tion. However, the English Hudson's Bay Com- 
pany remained for a quarter-century the con- 
trolling influence on the Columbia. Fort Van- 

2 Alexander Mackenzie, a Scotchman, crossed to the Pacific 
by way of Canada, in 1792-3. 



CHRONOLOGY 61 

couver, the most important post west of the 
Rockies, was established at the confluence of the 
Columbia and the Willamette in 1825 by Dr. John 
McLoughlin. Though of British birth and senti- 
ment, he has been called the Father of Oregon, in 
recognition of his large-hearted consideration for 
the American colonists, who between the years 
1833 and 1845 came from across the Rockies to 
people the lower Willamette Valley. 3 

Among the newcomers were several companies of 
missionaries, who set about their labours in iso- 
lated places bordering the pioneer trail. 

The question of Oregon's political status was re- 
peatedly discussed in the American Congress, and 
overtures were made to Great Britain to finally fix 
the 49th parallel as the northern boundary be- 
tween western Canada and the United States. 
England obstinately supported her contention that 
the Columbia River, in latitude 46° 10', should 
form the dividing line. 

In the winter of 1842-3, Marcus Whitman, 
founder of the mission at Walla Walla, rode from 
Oregon to the Atlantic to report to the American 
Board of Missions and to the Government of the 
United States concerning conditions in the far 
West. Early in 1843 the "Willamette Settle- 
ment " first met to establish a system for law and 
order and a year later the first legislative assem- 
bly of the Provisional Government met at Oregon 
City. 

About this time there began an organised move- 

3 " In the face of Parke and Peel and all the British war- 
ships Dr. McLoughlin sent succour to the famishing immi- 
grants. Far up Des Chutes they met his messengers of 
mercy with shouts and hallelujahs." — McLoughlin and Old 
Oregon, by Eva Emery Dye. Dr. McLoughlin was born 
in 1784 at Riviere de Loup, Quebec. 



62 THE TOURIST'S NORTHWEST 

ment of pioneers from the plains of the Middle 
West through the defiles of the Rockies. The trail 
of the ox-teams led via the Platte and Sweetwater 
Rivers over South Pass (7450 feet), thence to the 
Lewis or Snake River, and down the Columbia Val- 
ley. Over this route came trappers, missionaries 
and immigrants, whose numbers eventually an- 
nulled British power in the Oregon Country, " and 
paved the way for the empire of the Pacific to be- 
come part of this great nation." Fourteen hun- 
dred settlers arrived in 1844, and twice that num- 
ber in the year following. Altogether there were 
about 6000 people in the Willamette Valley, and a 
few settlers in a newly formed country north of 
the Columbia, when, in 1846, it was definitely 
agreed between the two nations that the northern 
boundary of the Oregon Country should follow the 
49th parallel. 

Her frontier being at last determined and the 
Americans left in unqualified possession of the ter- 
ritory so long under dispute, the question of a per- 
manent government for Oregon now arose. No 
action had been taken at Washington, and the set- 
tlers on the Willamette were daily growing more 
restive, when the massacre by Indians of the Whit- 
man party at Walla Walla occurred in November, 
1847. This painful incident so impressed upon 
the country the need of extending formal protec- 
tion to the new country, that President Polk, al- 
ways the friend of Oregon, quickly influenced the 
passage of a bill in Congress. The Territory of 
Oregon came into being in August, 1848. General 
Joseph Lane was appointed to the post of gover- 
nor, following the refusal of Abraham Lincoln to 
accept the office. 

The southern shores of Puget Sound became the 



CHRONOLOGY 63 

objective of the overland pioneers as early as 1845, 
when Colonel M. T. Simmons and some companions 
built several cabins at Tumwater (Olympia). 
Fort Nisqually had been founded by the Hudson's 
Bay Company at the junction of the Nisqually 
River with the Sound in 1833, and five years later 
Archibald McDonald, a representative of the fur 
traders, had organised the Puget Sound Agricul- 
tural Company. 

In 1851, Arthur A. Denny, who had journeyed 
from Illinois by way of Portland and Astoria, set- 
tled on Alki Point. A few months later, in Feb- 
ruary, 1852, he surveyed the town site of Seattle 
and called it for a friendly Indian chief. The fol- 
lowing year, the Territory of Washington was 
created (March 2, 1853), the limits extending at 
that time into portions of Idaho 4 and Montana. 
Governor Isaac Stevens was the first executive of 
the new Territory. His belief in the American 
Northwest, his energies, ardour and capabilities 
had concrete result in the building of the Northern 
Pacific Railroad a generation later. In 1850 
there were 5000 people in the northern settlements. 

The discovery of gold in California and southern 
Oregon gave a new impulse to immigration in the 
Pacific Northwest in the late forties. Between the 
years 1850 and 1858, various parts of Washington 
and Oregon were the scenes of tragic contests of 
the Whites with warlike Indians. The worst mas- 
sacres occurred in the Rogue River Valley, Oregon, 
in the White River Valley, Washington, at Seattle, 
and on the Columbia River at the Cascades. 
Treaties were finally concluded with tribes west and 
east of the Cascade Mountains in both territories. 

4 Idaho was organized as a separate territory in 1863. 



64 THE TOURIST'S NORTHWEST 

Eastern Washington was opened to white settlers 
in 1858. The town of Walla Walla throve so 
lustily upon the commerce of miners, traders and 
travellers, passing to and fro between the Colum- 
bia and the mines of what was to be the State of 
Idaho, that it maintained its position as the largest 
town in Washington until 1880. Early in the 
sixties, roads were opened and mail routes estab- 
lished to serve the miners on Washington and 
Idaho rivers. Spokane, a fur-trading post since 
1810, also increased in importance, because of the 
proximity of rich mines. The population of 
Olympia in 1870 was 1200; of Seattle, 1100; of 
Tacoma, 73. 

In 1859 Oregon . took its vows of statehood. 
Portland, known until fifteen years before as Mult- 
nomah, had in 1860 a population of 2000. In the 
same year, the Oregon Steam Navigation Company 
began to operate a steamboat, railway and tram 
service on the Columbia. The first railroad in the 
Northwest had been laid in 1850 along an Indian 
trail on the north bank, where the Columbia's flood 
pours through a narrow, rock-harried gorge. The 
rails of this " portage road " were made of wood. 
Its single car was drawn by a mule. Iron rails 
and a steam locomotive were introduced by the 
Oregon Steam Navigation Company. This or- 
ganisation was a combination of competitors. Un- 
til 1879, when the various interests were sold to 
Henry Villard, the corporation enjoyed the bene- 
fits of a complete monopoly of freight and passen- 
get traffic both east and west in the Columbia Val- 
ley. Freight which is now carried between Port- 
land and The Dalles at $1.50 a ton, then cost $40 
a ton to transport. One steamer is said to have 



CHRONOLOGY 65 

repaid its full purchase price on its maiden trip. 5 

An era of enterprise devoted to lumbering, fish- 
ing, agriculture and cattle-raising succeeded the 
rush to the mines. Railways were laid in Oregon 
and Washington which supplied necessary facilities 
for carrying products and passengers, and popu- 
lation quickly increased. 

Washington became a state in 1889 ; Idaho was 
admitted a year later. 

Vast irrigation projects in the heart of Oregon 
and Washington have redeemed deserts for the 
growing of grains and fruit, and given a further 
impetus to immigration. 

Spokane, market-place of a great tract of wheat 
and mines, has become an affluent city. Alaska's 
Horn of Plenty, emptied into the lap of Puget 
Sound ports, and a mighty trans-Pacific trade, 
have stored coffers with gold, reared lofty build- 
ings, laid miles of boulevards and acres of parks. 
From Portland's harbour sail fleets to all the 
world carrying lumber, wheat, wool and fish. The 
population of the city is to-day twice what it was a 
decade ago. 

To the industries of the Northwest a new one is 
added: Multitudes of tourists journey each year 
down highways of steel or asphalt to behold the 
wonders of river, sea and mountain the Creator 
has performed, and to praise marvels of city and 
plain wrought by man. 

5 Passenger service between the Willamette River and 
California was inaugurated by the brig Henry in 1846. 
A few years later, the Columbia, "last word in marine ar- 
chitecture, size, speed and elegance," was placed in com- 
mission on the same route. 



CHAPTER IV 
PORTLAND AND ITS ENVIRONS 



A city without a shabby quarter, an alley or a 
blighting street is Portland — the most intrinsi- 
cally satisfying municipal fabric in the Pacific 
Northwest. Other cities are fair in part ; Port- 
land is wholly fair, wholly sane and charming. 
The civic house is so well ordered that development 
is unrestricted by political considerations. The 
city's site and prospect are nowhere surpassed. 
Its streets, business and residential, form an im- 
maculate procession from river to highlands, and 
gardens displayed on its terraces and planted be- 
tween curb and sidewalk make the landscape beau- 
tiful all the year with greenery and flowers. 

Portland is the twentieth-century fulfilment of a 
comparatively old civilisation. Settlers chose its 
site three quarters of a century ago. Though its 
extraordinary growth as to size and population 
is a matter of recent years, it was in its earliest 
days the chief port of the first American colony 
on the Pacific Coast. The farms of the Willam- 
ette Valley responded abundantly to the invita- 
tion of the settler's hoe, so that the period of hard- 
ship attendant upon the taming of a virgin district 
was of short duration. Soil and climate were the 
beneficent influences which gentled the pioneer's 
labours. With granaries brimming and minds at 

peace, there was repose for the planning of institu- 

66 



PORTLAND AND ITS ENVIRONS 67 

tions calculated to increase the culture of the fron- 
tier community. No one willing to exert his en- 
ergies was poor ; almost from the beginning the 
homes built in cleared fields were above the average 
in comfort. So Portland, at the gate of this 
Valley of Contentment, rose upon a prosperous 
foundation. Its first families are not newly rich, 
but are descended from a well-to-do and conserva- 
tive ancestry. Movements social, educational and 
commercial are based upon a ripe precedent, and 
we see in culmination a city of modern ideals ma- 
tured to the highest plane of efficiency — a very 
paragon of a city, comely, opulent, clean, tem- 
perate and industrious. 

Multnomah, " Down by the Waters," the Indians 
called the forefather hamlet of the present Port- 
land. A year after the first cabin was built 
(184*4) on the original townsite, at the southeast 
corner of the streets now known as Front and 
Washington, two American skippers let the verdict 
of a tossed coin decide the name of the embargo 
town. " Heads " for Boston, " tails " for Port- 
land. And tails won. 

The population which was 2000 in 1860 multi- 
plied sixty-five times over in forty-five years. 
During the period between 1905 and 1910, eighty 
thousand more souls were added to the roll of in- 
habitants. In 1916 the registration figures will in 
all likelihood give Portland a population of 300,- 
000, an increase of over 200 per cent, in a decade. 
This spectacular gain is primarily attributed to 
the agreeable impression of the city received by 
visitors to the Centennial Exposition in 1905. 

As a shipping-centre for lumber, Portland 
claims precedence over all harbours of the world, 
and in wheat exports it rivals New York. One- 



68 THE TOURIST'S NORTHWEST 

sixth of the timber standing in the United States 
is contained within the forest areas of Oregon, 
though much of it is still inaccessible. Millions 
of feet are cleared as the cargo of a single vessel, 
and annual shipments out of Portland approximate 
700,000,000 feet. Before the World War this 
fresh-water port was the Pacific Coast terminus of 
the two largest fleets afloat, it being chosen because 
of its position as the disbursing point for 250,000 
square miles of territory served by the Columbia, 
second river highway of the continent. 

Ships leaving Portland reach the Columbia by 
sailing ten miles down the Willamette to the con- 
fluence of the rivers. The name of the latter 
stream is a corruption of the Indian Woh-la-mutt. 
Washington Irving spells it Wallamot in his As- 
toria. The accent implied is the one to which na- 
tives still adhere, though the Gallicised spelling 
misleads the stranger into placing the emphasis 
upon the final syllable. By this token are the 
newly arrived identified, and for their error 
promptly chided by the punctilious Oregonian. 

The Willamette divides the city into two parts, 
which are joined by five railway and passenger 
bridges. On the east side is a wide tract, level for 
the most part and platted with miles of well-paved 
residential streets. The main commerce of the 
city, all the tourist hotels, the principal shops, 
banks, theatres and public buildings, and the most 
pretentious dwellings are on the west bank. 
Docks and mills occupy the river frontage. West 
of Front Street, streets are numbered. Those 
running at right angles to the river bear names of 
trees, presidents, pioneers and Oregon products. 
Seventh Street is known as Broadway. For a 
dozen squares south of Salmon, Eighth and Ninth 




Gifford, Portland 
MT. HOOD AND PORTLAND, FROM CITY PARK 



PORTLAND AND ITS ENVIRONS 69 

Streets are merged in the Park Blocks, and become 
Park Street and West Park Street respectively. 

Theatres and hotels are centred on or near 
Broadway in the six blocks between Salmon and 
Stark Streets, and department stores on Fifth 
Street between Morrison and Washington. The 
Union Station and the North Bank Station (Great 
Northern and Spokane, Portland and Seattle Rail- 
ways) are within a short distance of each other, 
on Hoyt Street in the northern part of the city. 

On the slopes above the business section are 
ranged streets ornate with beautiful homes and 
schools, parks and motor boulevards. Crowning 
all at an altitude of 1200 feet is the Crest where 
the Braves of old held council. 

In museums and buildings of historic or archi- 
tectural interest Portland is no richer than the 
average American city. At Third and Taylor 
Streets is the site of the first church, erected in 
1847. On the plot stands a tall-steepled edifice, 
successor to the plain little fane originally erected 
by the Methodists " among the blackened stumps 
and logs " of a partially cleared wilderness. 

Two blocks south on Taylor Street one comes to 
the unassuming brick portals of the Portland Mu- 
seum of Art, where the Art Association has in- 
stalled a creditable collection of paintings, sculp- 
ture, antique glass and porcelain. The work 
of greatest value is a good Corot. An auxiliary 
gallery is provided for the exhibit of loan collec- 
tions and the work of visiting and local artists. 
Scholarships in the Art School connected with the 
museum are offered to graduates of high schools 
throughout the State. 

A museum of native birds, shells, animals, botani- 
cal specimens and minerals rewards a visit to the 



70 THE TOURIST'S NORTHWEST 

City Hall, at Fifth and Madison Streets. The 
array of objects relating to the constructive period 
of Oregon history, assembled by the State Histori- 
cal Society, has had such meagre space in a build- 
ing downtown in the market district, that the ex- 
hibits, many of them of inestimable value, have 
been lamentably crowded. A hall in Portland's 
new City Auditorium, promised for 1916 at Third 
and Market Streets, is to be the future abiding- 
place of these pioneer relics. The Oregon His- 
torical Society was organised in 1898 to foster the 
memory of the Builders of the State, to collect and 
publish historical data, and to preserve souvenirs 
relating to the domain which was the first to be 
settled by natives of the United States west of the 
Rockies. Oregon has further distinction as the 
" only acquisition of territory on this continent to 
which we obtained undisputed title without either 
conquest or cash purchase." The Historical So- 
ciety is the guardian of original letters, diaries, 
books, newspapers and maps, which reflect the 
rigours and ambitions of the infant colony, and 
portraits of those who guided its affairs. Besides 
Indian handicrafts, and implements used in culti- 
vating the earliest valley farms, and furnishings 
from the log dwellings of the frontiersmen, another 
rude and symbolic relic, which it is to be hoped an 
appreciative citizenry will mount with ceremony in 
the new quarters, is an ox-cart whose great wheels 
rumbled westward across prairie and mountain- 
pass during the migration which peopled Oregon 
seventy-five years ago. George H. Himes, the 
curator of the Museum and its chief creator, is 
himself a poineer, having immigrated with his par- 
ents via the ox-trail in the year 1853. It is in- 
conceivable that Oregon can ever repay what it 



PORTLAND AND ITS ENVIRONS 71 

owes Mr. Himes and his associates for saving to 
the State, and to the United States, documents 
which would have been dissipated or destroyed but 
for their capable and devoted efforts. The col- 
lection laboriously gathered by them for seven- 
teen years is recognised to-day as the most ac- 
curate and prolific source of information to be 
found anywhere concerning the history, archaeol- 
ogy and Indian nomenclature of the Pacific North- 
west. 

Westward from the City Hall, at Tenth and Tay- 
lor Streets, stands the classic Georgian edifice of 
the Multnomah County Library, opened for the 
free use of the public in September, 1912. The 
exterior of the building is carved with the names of 
printers, historians, philosophers, poets, novelists, 
dramatists, book binders, educators, religious 
leaders, military commanders, naval commanders, 
explorers, statesmen, painters, etchers, sculptors, 
architects, musicians, scientists, inventors. 

In the backs of the seats of the balustrade sur- 
rounding the building are carved the names of 
notable fiction writers, with a few titles of im- 
portant novels. 

There are seventy-five pedestals in the balustrade, 
and on the panels of the larger ones are carved 
the Seal of the United States, the Early Oregon 
Territorial Seal, the State Seal, the County Seal 
and the Seal of the Library Association of Port- 
land. On the smaller pedestals are carved repro- 
ductions of printers' marks and water marks used 
by the early printers and book binders. 

Besides general reading rooms, a story hour room, 
exhibition galleries, individual study rooms, and 
an art library, there is on the main floor a large 
library hall which is used by fifty organisations 



72 THE TOURIST'S NORTHWEST 

without cost. A course of University Extension 
Lectures is also free to all who respond to the 
sculptured invitation, " Come Go With Us; We'll 
Guide Thee to Our House and Shew Thee the Rich 
Treasures We Have Got, Which, With Ourselves, 
Are All at Thy Dispose" 

The originator and director of the broad activi- 
ties of this exceptional library is Miss Mary Fran- 
ces Isom, who for fifteen years has been chief 
librarian. It is her aim to make the institution 
the civic and intellectual centre of the community. 
To this end she has established travelling libraries, 
has organised lecture courses and exhibitions, has 
created a travel bureau, which tourists will find on 
the second floor in the lobby, and has deposited 
in fire stations, in department store rest rooms, 
in factories and similar centres books adapted to 
the tastes and needs of the readers. Strangers 
may while an occasional pleasant hour in the 
Periodical Room, which is situated to the left of 
the main entrance. 

A 20-mile tour of the city, its parks and van- 
tage-points may be accomplished with slight effort 
and at small expense by means of the Seeing Port- 
land Automobiles, which leave Sixth and Morrison 
Streets at ten, two and four o'clock daily. These 
cars also call for passengers at all tourist hotels. 
Fare, one dollar. Seats may be reserved in ad- 
vance. There is also a trolley observation car 
which leaves Third and Washington Streets at the 
above-named hours. Fare, fifty cents. 

Individual trolley trips within the city limits and 
to near-by towns and amusement places are sum- 
marised in a leaflet distributed by the Portland 
Railway, Light and Power Company, First and Al- 
der Streets. A booklet issued by the Portland 



PORTLAND AND ITS ENVIRONS 73 

Automobile Club (Touring Bureau in the Commer- 
cial Club Building, Fifth and Oak) outlines a two- 
hour tour of the city which may be taken by in- 
dividual conveyance. 

All sight-seeing cars give patrons an opportunity 
to enter the Forestry Building, which occupies a 
site on the former Exposition Grounds, whose 
area comprised 400 acres in a residential section 
overlooking the Willamette River and Guild's Lake, 
fifteen minutes' ride from the business centre. 
This " log palace " was constructed of timbers five 
to six feet in diameter. " Thick as a man is tall," 
some of the logs weigh thirty-two tons and, accord- 
ing to the graphic statistics of one writer, contain 
each enough lumber " to build a small cottage, 
fence it in, and lay a walk to its door." The in- 
terior is a shadowy Hall of Giants, in which hewn 
trees stand in their rough coats as pillars to sup- 
port the high roof. The specimens were cut 75 
miles from Portland on the Columbia, down which 
they were floated to the Willamette and Guild's 
Lake. A guide explains various exhibits contained 
in the building. 

On the way to City Park, which lies under the 
summit of King's Hill, the visitor is entranced by 
the floral extravaganza presented by successive 
gardens bordering the highway. In June and Oc- 
tober the rose is queen. In midsummer one finds 
the blooms somewhat seared and fallen. The tea- 
roses are the aristocrats. But in " texture, tint, 
fragrance and size " all varieties grown in this 
section are superior to the roses of England, 
France or California. Growers are partial to the 
La France Rose and the lovely Caroline Testout, 
to the Merveille de Lyons, and the varieties named 
for the Baroness Rothschild, the Duchess de Bra- 



74 THE TOURIST'S NORTHWEST 

bant, Mrs. John Laing, Dorothy Perkins and the 
Viscountess Folkestone. Rose trees, rose vines, 
rose hedges bloom with wanton luxuriance. 
A hundred miles of rose bushes border the city's 
sidewalks. An eight-year-old climber bore five 
thousand golden blossoms at one time. At Penin- 
sula Park (reached from Fifth and Washington 
Streets, by Mississippi Avenue car), seven hundred 
kinds of roses are displayed in a picturesque 
sunken garden, and plans are now under way for a 
series of wonderful municipal beds in which all 
the varieties grown in this climate shall be planted 
according to horticultural classification. 
Winding up King's Heights to the City Park 
(also known as Washington Park), one obtains 
wide views of the busy town below, and of the coun- 
try which extends to the east. If meteorological 
conditions are favourable, the looming peaks of 
snow mountains will rise clear against the horizon 
on either side the glistening Columbia. The Park 
itself is a dusk retreat thick-grown with natural 
verdure and carpeted with the yellow eyes of a 
trailing Japanese vine. Two notable bronzes 
grace the reserve, each of which memorialises the 
Oregon of eleven decades ago. " The Coming of 
the White Man " is typified by two Indian figures, 
one haughty, the other inquiring, at the approach 
of the invaders. The other statue is also of an 
Indian, but a girl — Sacajawea, the Shoshone 
maid, who, with babe upon her back, was trail- 
maker and emissary of the Lewis and Clark expedi- 
tion. The copper for the casting of the figure, 
modelled by Alice Cooper of Colorado, was given 
by the owner of a mine named Sacajawea. The 
statue was erected by women patriots of the 
Dakotas, Montana, Idaho, Washington and Ore- 



PORTLAND AND ITS ENVIRONS 75 

gon, in memory of the services performed by the 
Indian girl-mother to the " bold spirits of that best 
crusade " during their journey across the territory 
now comprised within the limits of these States. 
The unveiling in July, 1905, was made a ceremony 
of the Lewis and Clark Exposition programme. 

Tsa-ka-ka-wea is the literal spelling of a Hidatsa 
tribal name meaning Bird Woman. It has been 
suggested that the name of the pathfinder was ac- 
tually Shoshone for " the Canoe Launcher " — Sac- 
a-j awa. 

When a child of five the maiden was carried 
east across the mountains by Blackfeet Indians, 
following a victory over the Shoshones in battle. 
In a Mandan village near the site of Bismarck, 
North Dakota, she was reared to the age of 
fifteen and then sold as wife to a half-breed French- 
Canadian trapper, Toussaint Chaboneau, de- 
scribed in the journals of Lewis and Clark as 
" coward, wife-beater and idler." The exploring 
party came upon the pair in a camp on the plains 
and engaged the man as interpreter for the ex- 
pedition to the Coast. During the winter, Saca- 
jawea's baby was born, and in April, 1805, she 
departed with her husband as one of the ven- 
turesome band. When the mountains were 
reached, the homing instincts of her race led her 
sure-footed and confident through forests and over 
streams which confused the white men. For she 
was born of a mountain tribe ; the slopes of the 
Rockies had been the dwelling-ground of her 
fathers. She saved documents which would have 
been lost in a seething river but for her quick wit. 
She it was who warned the Americans of a plot to 
take their lives, and when the company reached the 
camps of the Shoshones, she secured the good-will 



76 THE TOURIST'S NORTHWEST 

and assistance of her own people, among whom, so 
it happened, her brother was chief. During the 
progress of the expedition down the Columbia Val- 
ley it was she who pacified hostile members of the 
Flathead and Nez Perce bands. The records of 
Lewis and Clark commend her stoicism, her re- 
source and her trail instincts. When the infant 
Baptiste, who rode five thousand miles upon his 
mother's back, had grown to young manhood, he 
was summoned to St. Louis by Captain Clark to 
receive a white man's education, in token of the 
officer's high regard for the bronze woman. 

If we may believe the verdict of those who have 
made research, Sacajawea is buried on the Sho- 
shone Reservation at Windy River, Wyoming. A 
monument at the grave was erected by the State 
of Wyoming. Other memorials have been raised 
in North Dakota and Montana to the pilot of " the 
most hazardous and the most significant journey 
ever made on the Western Continent." 

Brave Lewis and Immortal Clark! 



You gave the waiting world the spark 
That thronged the empire-paths you made ! 

But standing on that snowy height, 
Where Westward yon wild rivers whirl, 

The guide who led your hosts aright 
Was that barefoot Shoshone girl! 

Where'er you turned in wonderment 

In that wild empire, unsurveyed, 
Unerring still, she pointed West — 

Unfailing^ all your pathways laid! 
She nodded toward the setting sun — 

She raised a ringer toward the sea — 
The closed gates opened, one by one, 

And showed your path of Destiny U 

lFrom a poem by Bert Huffman, composed for the un- 
veiling of the statue, 



PORTLAND AND ITS ENVIRONS 77 

On Council Crest, high above the river, the In- 
dians in conclave burned their festal fires. We 
mount thither by hillside roads garlanded with pic- 
ture-homes, and perfumed by wistaria and rose. 
Trolley and motor-car essay the bold rise once 
trod by the moccasined feet of gathering clans. 
As they climbed through the unhewn forest they 
looked, as do we, upon vistas of valley, river and 
summit, and thought these sights, these meadows, 
these peaks and streams, were theirs for eternity. 
On this hill-top we may picture them gathered in 
congress to discuss the encroachments of trappers 
and adventurers. From this height they were free 
to watch unseen the movements of trading-vessels 
and the sloops of the pioneers gliding to and from 
the River Woh-la-Mutt, once reserved for their 
own trading. 

At the pinnacle of this wooded butte we gauge 
from an observatory tower the extent of the realm 
which the Indians who met here in council surren- 
dered to their conquerors. Fourteen counties in 
two states lie below us. Toward the sunset 
spreads the tranquil valley of the Tualatin, 
rimmed by the Coast Range ; we turn to the south 
and see where this tributary joins the Willamette, 
and looking down the Willamette Valley gaze upon 
the winsome vale which the river makes green. 

Eastward across a rising plain, rilled by innu- 
merable creeks and rivulets, defiles the range whose 
hoary eminences stand aloof from each other, yet 
form a mantled procession from Baker to Shasta. 
When no haze intervenes, five great mountains per- 
petually snow-crowned are in view from the hills 
of Portland. Best beloved of Oregonians is Mt. 
Hood, piled in pure grandeur toward the sky. On 
a fair day the atmosphere seems rosy in contrast. 



78 THE TOURIST'S NORTHWEST 

Mt. Jefferson beckons to the south. Northward 
strides the range across the winding blue of the 
Columbia to the massive domes of St. Helens and 
reticent Rainier. Eastward in Washington, lordly 
Mt. Adams is revealed. 

When we descend from the Crest, some of these 
visions remain with us to startle and amaze, as 
we glimpse their god-like forms in the midst of 
trivial occupations. 

The supreme beauty of Oregon panoramas has 
spurred to striking achievement the noted photog- 
rapher, Fred Kiser, whose lens has interpreted 
the principal scenes of the whole Northwest. His 
main studio is in Portland. 

This city has also been chosen as base for the 
photographic expeditions of Benjamin Gifford, a 
rarely gifted portrayer of mountains and mystic 
forests, whose pictures are invested with the 
artistry of a great landscapist. 

Within the bounds of the city are several drive- 
ways to be recommended for their vistas as well 
as for their irreproachable surface. The Ter- 
williger Boulevard, 200 feet in width, follows a 
ledge 500 feet above the river, and forms part 
of Portland's park system, for which a mil- 
lion-dollar bond issue was voted. This parkway 
on a western slope is named for an ancestor of the 
family which gave the land it traverses. 

Out of Portland are drives which roam the wilds, 
run to the sea, brink rivers and canyons, and ac- 
quaint one at close range with fruitful fields and 
orchards. 

Columbia River routes and scenes are described 
in the following chapter. 

Trolleys, steam trains and a steamboat carry 
passengers from Portland to Vancouver, on the 



PORTLAND AND ITS ENVIRONS 79 

Columbia's north bank. Electric trains speed 
through an inviting country to Salem (50 m.) and 
Eugene (122 m.),and make a loop of 100 miles 
to Hillsboro, Forest Grove, McMinnville and 
Dallas, west of the Willamette River. There are 
trolley excursions to Bull Run, beneath the shadow 
of Mt. Hood, and to Estacada Park, a mountain 
resort 34 miles distant, in a forest of fir trees. 
Launches are for hire on the river-front for water 
excursions. 

The amateur of places historic will not fail to go 
by motor, steamboat, interurban train or railroad 
to Oregon City, 12 miles up the Willamette. 2 
Places to be noted on the way are the Oaks Amuse- 
ment Park, the Waverly Golf Links, and the stretch 
of water along the edge of the river and its islands 
where are moored villages of houseboats. 

The highway to the oldest incorporated munici- 
pality and the first territorial capital of the North- 
west crosses a shady little brother of the Willa- 
mette extolled by no less a person than Kipling. 
A chapter in his American Notes (1891), titled 
"Fishing," relates the events of a day upon which, 
after returning to Portland from The Dalles, he 
went with two friends through " a valley full of 
wheat and cherry trees " to catch salmon in the 
Clackamas. He asks us to imagine " a stream 
seventy yards broad divided by a pebbly island, 
running over seductive ' riffles ' and swirling into 
deep quiet pools, where the good salmon goes to 
smoke his pipe after meals. Get such a stream 
amid fields of breast-high crops surrounded by 
hills of pines, throw in where you please quiet 

2 Car half-hourly from First and Alder Streets. Oregon 
City Transportation, and Willamette Navigation Company. 
Southern Pacific trains. 



80 THE TOURIST'S NORTHWEST 

water, long-fenced meadows, and a hundred-foot 
bluff just to keep the scenery from growing too 
monotonous, and you will get some faint notion 
of the Clackamas." 

The author of Plain Tales cast " just above the 
weir," and snared after a dizzy contest of thirty- 
seven minutes a twelve-pound salmon. Alto- 
gether the party got sixteen fish whose weight 
totalled 140 pounds. 

Not far from the Clackamas, a branch of the 
trolley turns off at the town of Gladstone to an 
imposing grove of trees covering 75 acres, which 
has been ceded by the owner, Mr. Harvey Cross, 
for use as a Chautauqua camping ground. For 
two weeks, every July, thousands of subscribers 
enjoy the summer school and the programme of 
music, lectures, festivals and sport presented at 
this largest of all Chautauquas west of the moun- 
tains. The Park is also reached by Southern 
Pacific trains. Season tickets cost $2.50, single 
admission, 25 cents. Camping privileges, includ- 
ing ground and water, are granted at the rate of 
$1 per camp. Floored unfurnished tents may 
be rented at $3 to $3.50 for the fortnight. The 
Assembly is now entering its twenty-third year. 

Two miles beyond Gladstone is Oregon City, a 
likeable and essentially American town of roman- 
tic and industrial interest, built on the slopes of 
two successive bluffs above the river. In 1829 on 
the flats down by the " Great Falls " of the Will- 
amette, Dr. McLoughlin, when Hudson's Bay gov- 
ernor at Vancouver, staked a claim. In his wisdom 
he foresaw that the power generated by the pouring 
of the river over these rocky horseshoe ledges would 
«orae day drive the wheels of commerce. The falls 
are formed by the river leaping in numerous cas- 




THE COLUMBIA RIVER LOOKING FROM ST. PETER'S 
DOME, OREGON, TOWARD MT. ADAMS IN THE STATE 
OF WASHINGTON 



PORTLAND AND ITS ENVIRONS 81 

cades, with a total descent of about forty feet. An 
early chronicler thought Oregon City " destined 
to be one of the greatest manufacturing cities in 
the western world." If it is not yet that, it is 
nevertheless the site of three mills which annually 
produce 75,000 tons of paper, and of the Oregon 
City Woollen Mills, the largest industry of its kind 
west of St. Louis. Established half a century 
ago, when the Red Man's robe still lent its warm 
colours to the Oregon landscape, this plant has a 
special reputation for Indian-striped blankets and 
other gay-hued fabrics made from Oregon fleece. 
At the Falls there are also lumber and furniture 
mills, and an electric power plant which gives 
Portland its light. A canal and locks, toll-free 
since April, 1915, permit access to the river above 
the falls. 

Late in the spring when the Chinook Salmon are 
running up-stream, fishermen come from far to 
test their skill with the line at the base of the falls. 
Sometimes more than a hundred rowboats are con- 
gregated here, each one holding a fascinated group 
of anglers. Excitement runs high as gleaming 
salmon weighing from 9.0 to 65 pounds are played 
and finally conquered. A fish ladder west of the 
main fall assists the incoming thousands in their 
effort to reach the breeding- waters. 

The builder of Dr. McLoughlin's first cabin was 
the Frenchman who cleared the first Oregon farm, 
in 1829, on Swan Island, 10 miles down the river. 
In 1837, the Hudson's Bay factor organised a 
post at what was then the head of Willamette 
navigation. The first city to be incorporated on 
the Pacific Slope was the outgrowth of this early 
settlement. In the year of the incorporation 
(1844), Methodist immigrants built on the main 



82 THE TOURIST'S NORTHWEST 

street the mother church of all the Protestant 
temples this side the Rockies. The original build- 
ing is now embodied in a more modern edifice, 
which has been raised above the street level to 
make room for a row of stores. The first Con- 
gregational and the first Baptist organisations 
on the Coast also built churches in Oregon City. 

In 1846, the very settlers who owed so much 
to McLoughlin, the hardy Canadian, received him 
with somewhat grudging hospitality as a resident 
of the town. His benevolence to the American 
overland arrivals had made him enemies in Lon- 
don, who thought his kindness treachery to his 
country and to his company. Refusing to dis- 
continue his ministrations, these are the words 
with which he heroically severed his connection of 
twenty years' duration: 

" Gentlemen, as a man of common humanity 
I could not do otherwise than to give those naked 
and starving people to eat and to wear of our 
stores. I foresaw clearly that it aided in the 
American settlement of the country, but this I 
cannot help. It is not for me, but for God to 
look after and take care of the consequences. 
The Bible tells me, ' If thine enemy hunger, feed 
him; if he be naked, clothe him.' These settlers 
are not even enemies. If the directors find fault 
with me they quarrel with Heaven. I have simply 
done what any one truly worthy the name of a 
man could not hesitate to do. I ask you not to 
bear these debts ; let them be my own. Let me 
retain the profits upon these supplies and ad- 
vances made to settlers, and I will cheerfully as- 
sume all payments to the company. All I can do 
honourably for my company shall be done. Be- 
yond that I have no pledges. Shall I leave these 



PORTLAND AND ITS ENVIRONS 83 

Americans to starve, or drive them from the coun- 
try? Gentlemen, if such be your orders I can 
serve you no longer." 

How Dr. McLoughlin surrendered an income of 
thousands a year to keep his conscience straight, 
how his enterprise and shrewd judgments affected 
the early progress of Oregon City, how he led its 
July Fourth parades and livened its dancing- 
parties, and how he and his lady continued to feed 
and hearten the newcomers who made this a con- 
vening point — these things and many more tales 
of this just and lovable, though erratic person- 
ality are told in the form of a story by Mrs. Dye 
in her McLoughlin and Old Oregon. Through the 
efforts of this pleasing biographer and her com- 
panions in the Woman's Club, the McLoughlin 
house, which was moved some years ago from its 
neglected plot on Main Street to the " first bluff," 
is now restored to an almost complete semblance 
of the home occupied by the ex-factor and his 
household. A good many objects used by him 
have been given by people into whose hands they 
had fallen. In the room to the left of the en- 
trance Madame McLoughlin was accustomed to 
supervise her dusky servants in the packing of 
baskets for the poor. The humblest and the most 
destitute were as free to seek her aid as were the 
most exalted of the community's visitors to ask 
her hospitality. The term " open house " had its 
fullest interpretation within these portals. Lady 
Franklin was among the guests of the Doctor and 
his wife while she was on her long tour in search 
of her husband, the explorer. 

On the brow of the precipitous bluff, now beauti- 
fully turfed and planted as a memorial park sur- 
rounding the house, the Indians used to shoot 



84 THE TOURIST'S NORTHWEST 

their arrows down upon the hated white men. 
Here those who love and revere the memory of 
Oregon's Friend hope some day to see his statue 
rise, with hand out-held to the valley of which he 
was the patron, and by whose waters he now 
sleeps. 

On the east bank of the Willamette, 33 miles 
from Portland and less than 20 miles southwest 
of Oregon City, there was once an Indian village 
called Champooick, so named for an edible root in- 
digenous to the river bank. Dr. McLoughlin put 
up a warehouse at this place in which to store 
the harvest of the fields that retired French-Cana- 
dian trappers had tilled and planted early in the 
thirties. Here on French Prairie near the mis- 
sions of the Methodists and of the Catholic 
Fathers, in the hamlet called Champoeg by the 
Whites, the Willamette settlements from Oregon 
City to Salem were invited to assemble in May, 
1843, to hear the report of a committee which had 
been appointed two months previous " to take 
into consideration the propriety of taking steps 
for the civil and military protection of the col- 
ony." Such action in defence of the settlers' per- 
sons and property as had previously been pro* 
posed had been annulled by the passive antagon- 
ism of a few Americans and most of the French 
farmers. When the report of the committee was 
read at the meeting in May and was found to be 
favourable to the organisation of a civil govern- 
ment, a motion that it be accepted was lost. 
Then George Le Breton, a Catholic of American 
sympathies who had immigrated from Massachu- 
setts, proposed amid the reigning confusion that 
those approving the objects of the meeting stand 



PORTLAND AND ITS ENVIRONS 85 

to the right, and those of a contrary mind to the 
left. " We can risk it," he cried, " let us divide 
and count." The Transactions of the Oregon 
Pioneer Association record the scene that followed : 

" As quick as tongue could utter the words, 
William H. Gray emphasised the proposition by 
saying with great animation, ' I second the mo- 
tion.' Joe Meek thundered out with an earnestness 
not less than that he would manifest in an attack 
upon a grizzly bear — * Who's for a divide ? ' and 
as he stepped quickly and nervously in front of 
the settlers, he added in a voice that rang clear 
out as though it was the death knell to anarchy, 
6 All for the report of the committee and organisa- 
tion, will follow me.' This move was sudden and 
quite unexpected at that stage of the proceed- 
ings, and it was electrical in its effect. Americans 
followed the patriotic and large-hearted trapper 
and his Rocky Mountain companions and their 
allies and they counted fifty-two, while their ad- 
versaries numbered but fifty. Then in the t three 
cheers for our side,' proposed by Meek, there went 
up such a shout as Champoeg never heard before 
and never will again." 

A judicial staff was chosen, and a sheriff (none 
other than the Virginian, Joe Meek), also magis- 
trates and constables, and a major and three cap- 
tains, who were instructed to enlist men to form 
companies of mounted riflemen. A committee of 
nine was also delegated to draft a code of laws 
for the government of the community. 

In this manner Oregon's first constitution was 
born, her first judiciary and her first militia. 
And for the first time the flag of the nation be- 
came the emblem on the Pacific Coast of Ameri- 
can government. 



86 THE TOURIST'S NORTHWEST 

The site of old Champoeg was definitely located 
through the efforts of the Oregon Historical So- 
ciety in 1900. Since May, 1901, when a com- 
memorative monument was unveiled, the Society 
has celebrated each year with patriotic ceremony 
the recurrence of the Second of May. 

At St. Paul, within short walking distance of 
Champoeg and the site of the first Methodist Mis- 
sion at Mission Landing, the Romanist Fathers 
established the first Catholic school in the North- 
west for the conversion of the Indians, and there 
built a brick church in the year 1846. 



CHAPTER V 

THE COLUMBIA RIVER FROM PORTLAND TO MT. 

HOOD AND THE DALLES. CENTRAL AND 

EASTERN OREGON. THE COLUMBIA 

FROM PORTLAND TO ASTORIA. 

PACIFIC BEACHES 



Portland to The Dalles. 

Five routes are provided by which one may mark 
the majestic course of the Columbia east from 
Portland. On the south bank runs the Oregon - 
Washington Railway, on the north the Spokane, 
Portland and Seattle Road. Above the tracks on 
the borders of both States are highways for ve- 
hicle traffic, and on the river itself are steamboats 
which give frequent service between Portland, 
Vancouver, Wash., the Cascades, Hood River, and 
The Dalles. An interchange of routes permits the 
traveller who is returning to Portland to go one 
way by train and the other by boat ; or to ship his 
car by water and return in it by road. Coming 
west by rail one can leave the railway at The 
Dalles and continue the 100 miles to Portland by 
the more leisurely steamer, by motor-boat, or by 
automobile. If the latter plan is followed, the 
loveliest portions of the river are in the summer 
seen late in the afternoon and at sunset. The 
principal waterfalls are on the Oregon side. It 

is therefore well to enjoy the trip at least one 

87 



88 THE TOURIST'S NORTHWEST 

way along the south bank by the motor-road, 
which permits an intimate view of cascades and 
bosky dells. Tourists make half-day motor ex- 
cursions from Portland to Multnomah Falls and 
back, and day trips to Hood River and back. 
Sight-seeing automobiles leave at regular hours 
from the Tyrrel office at Sixth and Morrison 
Streets for Multnomah Falls (30 m.). In good 
weather these cars are often uncomfortably 
crowded, and there is no protection from the 
sometimes very ardent Oregon sun. Automobiles 
holding up to seven passengers are for hire at 
hotel garages. 

By the Columbia Highway, Portland — The Dalles. 

The sensational stretch of road which unites 
Portland with the hinterland of the Columbia Val- 
ley was first projected by a group of citizens of 
whom Julius Meier, a Portland merchant, and 
Samuel Hill, " the road-builder," were the leaders. 
Mr. Hill, whose vocation is telephones, has made 
the technique of highway construction his hobby. 
It was he who outlined a State highway scheme 
for Oregon and built at his own expense demon- 
stration roads to prove the advantages of various 
methods which he and his emissaries had witnessed 
in operation on two or three continents. By this 
means and by practical lectures he awakened the 
people of the Northwest to the advantages of 
good roads which should serve both the tourist 
and the farmer. Men of ideas had long dreamed 
of a boulevard which should lead to the infinite 
wonders of the Columbia's shores. In the sum- 
mer of 1912 a plan was formulated to fuse 
the road building energies of all the Oregon 
counties bordering the river. When the engineers 



COLUMBIA RIVER. EASTERN OREGON 89 

and labourers began their work under the direc- 
tion of the expert, Samuel C. Lancaster, and John 
Yeon, the millionaire road-master, the knowledge 
of " Sam " Hill was of invaluable aid in determin- 
ing materials, grades and routes, and in suggest- 
ing where culverts, bridges, retaining walls and 
buttresses should be built to hold the road upon 
its ledge carved high on the cliffs. Three years 
after the propaganda was launched, long stretches 
of hard-surfaced highway between Astoria and 
The Dalles were opened to traffic. In the fash- 
ioning of this royal road no beautiful thing was 
destroyed or marred. Ingenuity and money were 
painstakingly employed to spare each natural 
milestone. 

Twenty-two shadeless, monotonous miles inter- 
vene between Portland and the Gate of the Gorge. 
Midway, a road near the Automobile Club House 
turns off toward Mt. Hood. Auto stages make 
daily trips to Arrah Wannah, Welches, Tawney's, 
Rhododendron Tavern and Government Camp 
(57 m. from Portland), on the west side of the 
mountain. The Travel Bureau, 116 Third Street, 
reserves seats in advance. Return fares, $5- 
$7.50. Fishing and hunting are the attractions 
at these resorts. At Government Camp, parties 
are outfitted to climb the mountain. 

At Crown Point the car runs out an esplanade 
from which one looks 35 miles either way on the 
conquering river — a noble site for a memorial 
pavilion to those who voyaged this way to the 
Oregon Country. 

The Columbia, fifth waterway of the world for 
magnitude, is the only river of the Northwest that 
pierces the Cascades, and is one of four major 
rivers which reach the Pacific Ocean from the 



90 THE TOURIST'S NORTHWEST 

east side of a range of mountains. The other 
three are the Yukon, the Fraser and the Colorado. 
When it has journeyed twelve hundred miles from 
its source, 1 the Columbia approaches the sierras 
named for its cascades, and for a distance of 50 
miles breaks its way through highlands that are 
crowned on the south by Mt. Hood, and on the 
north by Mt. Adams and Mt. St. Helens. 

In the opinion of geologists, " this extraordinary 
passageway of the river . . . represents ages of 
gradual elevation of the mountain chain and a con- 
temporary erosion by the river, so that as the 
heights became higher, the river bed became 
deeper. The one-time shore slowly mounted sky- 
ward, and as the new upheavals rose from the 
ocean deeps the lines of erosion were in turn 
wrought on them, and river shore succeeded river 
shore through long ages. With these fundamen- 
tal forces of upheaval and erosion there were eras 
of local seismic and volcanic activity, more cata- 
clysmic in nature, from which there came the mag- 
nificent pillars of columnar basalt and the first 
trenching of the profound chasms which subse- 
quent lateral streams carved through the rising 
base of the great range." 2 

The Columbia's gorge is distinguished beyond 
that of other rivers for its rock-forms, for its 

i The river rises in Columbia Lake, southeastern British 
Columbia, flows north 200 miles through the Rockies, then 
south through the Arrow Lakes, and enters the State of 
Washington at its northern boundary. Making a great 
bend it crosses the 46th parallel, and thereafter on its 
westerly course to the ocean divides Washington and Ore- 
gon. 

2 Quoted from The Columbia River, its History, its Myths, 
its Scenery, its Commerce, by William Denison Lyman, — 
a book recommended to all travellers in the Northwest, and 
particularly to those who follow the path of the river. 



COLUMBIA RIVER. EASTERN OREGON 91 

contrasting intervales, its lofty waterfalls and its 
sublime and subtly beautiful palisades. A map 
showing the land's configuration about the north- 
ern base of Mt. Hood betrays the origin of the 
cataracts and airy cascades which fill a dozen 
forest alcoves with the music of their falling. 
Streams of melted snow hurrying through their 
valleys reach the broken face of the foothills and 
drop down ravine and granite gully to the river. 
Four hundred feet below the sheltered parapet of 
Crown Point stands tinted Rooster Rock among 
trees on the water-edge. Why so fair a monolith 
bears a name so ungainly is not explained. It has 
no likeness to a fowl. Some deem it the most 
graceful of all the river rocks. Perhaps admira- 
tion was implied in calling it the cock o' the shore 
line. More massive pieces of chiselling are the 
Pillars of Hercules, three miles above, and the 
wind and tide-worn bluff across the river, where 
the contraction of the bed becomes most apparent. 
This basalt wall on the Washington side, formed 
of half-imbedded, torpedo-peaked columns, has 
been unmelodiously christened, Cape Horn. Even 
from the south bank, its fretted sides glow with 
that singularly soft yet trenchant beauty which 
characterises the crags of the Columbia. 

Beyond Crown Point the road twists up and 
down a formidable but admirably graded incline 
to the first of those " handsom cascades " men- 
tioned by Clark in his Journal. Latourelle is not 
the handsomest, but in its exquisite descent it is 
the most poetic of the dozen falls to be seen in the 
next ten miles. Shepperd's Dell is as Pan-like 
as it sounds. One listens for the piping of fauns, 
and hears them in swaying waters and leaves that 
stir in the breeze. Four tumbling creeks veil the 



92 THE TOURIST'S NORTHWEST 

green bluffs with spray between the Dell and Mult- 
nomah Falls. Deep within the glooming shadows, 
this glorious cataract plunges over the edge of a 
cliff 607 feet high, buries its foam in a resounding 
pool, and makes a second leap of 67 feet to the 
river-shore. The Yosemite Fall is four times 
higher and of greater volume, but the master 
waterfalls of Oregon and California have points 
of resemblance in the lovely angle of the sky-line 
at their topmost ledge, and in the outward poise of 
their stream. By an ascending path, access is 
gained through the ferny woods to the pool and to 
the retreat behind Multnomah. The whiteness of 
the pendent waters is here intensified by mosses 
that cling to the cliff wall and by tall evergreens 
that lean from either side to make a perfect mis- 
en-scene. 

One of those aesthetically arched bridges that 
so frequently grace views on the Highway has 
been placed above the pool — a gracious gift to the 
people from Simon Benson of Portland.. 

A seven-mile trail up Multnomah Creek was com- 
pleted in 1915 to the summit of Larch Mountain, 
which rears itself 4000 feet above river level like 
" a grandstand where the children of men can 
come up and see all that God has done in shap- 
ing this land." 

From the road, little impression can be gained 
of the " peaks that ward the em'rald Oregon M 
beyond the crest of the southern palisades. Only 
from the river is Mt. Hood disclosed, and all the 
castellated coterie about its feet. 

The gorge of the Oneonta is a rift between gran- 
ite walls hugged so close above the stream that 
it grumbles in its narrow bed. Beyond a tun- 
nelled obstruction are falls which sweep down- 




THE CAXYOX OF THE DESCHUTES RIVER, CENTRAL 
OREGON 



COLUMBIA RIVER. EASTERN OREGON 93 

ward with the arch of a thoroughbred's tail. Op- 
posite Warrendale rises the basalt beehive called 
Castle Rock — one of the out-standing features 
of the Washington shore. Bonneville, on the 
Oregon side again, calls to mind the adventurous 
captain whom Washington Irving made the hero 
of a pioneer romance. To piscatorial experts 
Bonneville also spells fish, for this is the site of 
the mammoth trout and salmon incubator which 
each year produces fry by the million for Oregon 
waters. 

Now the road crosses the Multnomah County 
line, and looks from the level of the river upon the 
eminence known to unromantic geographers as 
Table Mountain, but called by those of us who 
put faith in Red Men's legends, the north pier of 
the fallen Bridge of the Gods. Hundreds of vol- 
umes have been written about the Columbia. At 
least one is devoted solely to the story of the 
great span which formerly united the two shores 
and was unwittingly wrecked by a rock from the 
hand of the god that was Mt. Hood, when in com- 
bat with the deity symbolised by Mt. Adams. 

Professor Denison gives " a finer, though less 
known " fire legend to account for the accumula- 
tion of rock in the river-course at this point, 
where Indians allege, and geologists confirm, 
the one-time existence of a natural arch un- 
der which the water made its way. There was a 
father whose two sons quarrelled over the posses- 
sion of the land which they found on the banks of 
the Great River. The father shot an arrow north 
and an arrow west, and sent a son in pursuit of 
each one to establish his tribe on the plains where 
the arrows fell. The son who went to the north 
became the ancestor of all the Klickitats, and the 



94 THE TOURIST'S NORTHWEST 

son who followed westward the arrow's flight es- 
tablished the Multnomah nation. That the land 
should be forever peaceful, the Great Spirit up- 
reared the Cascade Mountains as a barrier, but 
as a concession to convenience, he threw a rock 
bridge across the river. A sooth-sayer was 
placed upon it as the guardian of fire, the only 
fire in the whole world. But when Loowit the 
witch saw how the Indians needed the fire which 
they could never have without Sahale granted 
it, she appealed to the Great Spirit to let them 
enjoy the benefits of the Sacred Fire. He yielded 
to her plea, and he made her, moreover, a maid 
of beautiful instead of hag-like form to compen- 
sate her faithfulness and benevolence. Where- 
upon peace no longer reigned. Strife arose 
among rival chiefs who loved the sooth-sayer 
transformed. War raged, the land was desolated. 
Sahale thought he could partly annul the evil 
which had resulted from his good intentions. So 
he broke down the tomanowas bridge, the Span 
of the Sacred Fire, and put to death the one who 
had been its guardian and her lovers, Klickitat 
and Wiyeast. Then to commemorate what had 
been good in their lives he called into being the 
mountains known to us as Hood, Adams and St. 
Helens. 

So, after all, we have reason to be glad Loowit 
was changed from a witch, and braves fought for 
her. 

A few miles east of the rapids where the Govern- 
ment has built a chain of locks to surmount prob- 
lems of navigation, a feudal watch-tower has been 
made of Mitchell's Point, by tunnelling the pro- 
jecting height and piercing the river-wall with 
casements. At this point and at others on this 



COLUMBIA RIVER. EASTERN' OREGON 95 

remarkable road it is said surveyors hung by long 
ropes over the escarpments in order to mark the 
route for the blasters. Hood River, port of the 
red and yellow apple realm, is just beyond. 

The way to Mt. Hood is facilitated by rail and 
motor-roads, and good mountain inns rob the so- 
journ of even minor hardship. The Hood River 
Railway (one train a day, 8 a.m.) penetrates 22 
miles toward the base, Parkdale being the ter- 
minus. From this point a road connects with the 
main highway which ascends through the valley of 
orchards to Mount Hood Lodge (2800 ft.), and 
to Cloud Cap Inn at the snow line (6000 ft.). 
Guests of both will be met at Hood River and con- 
veyed by automobile to destination, if advance no- 
tice of arrival is given. The round trip rate by 
rail from Portland to Hood River station, by au- 
tomobile to Cloud Cap Inn, and return to Port- 
land, is $12.50. The O.-W. R. & N. ticket office 
at Third and Washington Streets, Portland, and 
the Travel Bureau at the same corner, will give 
further information about the inn and make reser- 
vations. Arrangements for accommodation at 
Mt. Hood Lodge must be made in advance (tele- 
phone Hood River-Odell 314). Rates at both 
houses are from $3 a day up. The Lodge manage- 
ment maintains a tent camp at the foot of Coe 
Glacier for the convenience of guests. Mr. 
Rogers, the host, is a member of the American 
Alpine Club, the Sierra and Mazama Clubs, and 
brings the experience of a true mountaineer to the 
service of his patrons. Many delightful expedi- 
tions are organised from this base point. 

The Hood River orchards vie in interest with 
vistas of Hood and Adams as the car makes the 



96 THE TOURIST'S NORTHWEST 

steep ascent to the timber line. The rolling backs 
of low hills and level benches basking in sunlight 
show regiments of trees symmetrically pruned, 
each one a mint of wealth coined in the specie 
of Spitzenberg or Newtown pippin. About 50 
square miles are irrigated and under cultivation. 
In occasional cases the yield is up to $1200 gross 
per acre, but the average return received from 
mature trees is $300 to $600 an acre. The an- 
nual harvest, approximating half a million boxes, 
is handled by a growers' organisation which has 
its own storehouse, ice plant and vending sys- 
tem. Strawberries are also a prosperous crop. 
The wage of berry-pickers averages $3.50 a day. 

Except for the lower and upper valleys of the 
river, most of the area of Hood County is in tim- 
ber. Half its forests are included in the National 
Reserve, which throws a cloak of fir, larch and 
pine about the feet of Mt. Hood. 

Though the heat in the valley be intense, 3 on 
the upper slopes the air blowing from acres of 
snow brings refreshment, and increasingly rugged 
views add to the sense of invigoration. Cloud 
Cap Inn (26 m.), the motor's ultimate goal, is 
a rambling structure of log and stone sprawled 
with its cabins on the brow of a wooded spur. Its 
aspect and social mien put one immediately in the 
mood of the high places. Though one may not 
have come to climb, the sight of tanned outdoors- 

3 Daily average maximum in July, 85°. During* short pe- 
riods the thermometer may register 100° and more in the 
hottest part of the day, but nights are usually cool. It 
will be remembered that at the cascades we have passed 
through the mountains and at Hood River are on the bor- 
ders of arid central Oregon. The precipitation at the cas- 
cades is 75 inches a year, and at The Dalles, 42 m. inland, 
16 inches. 



COLUMBIA RIVER. EASTERN OREGON 97 

men and women clad in knickers and calked shoes 
and armed with hatchets and stocks whets the 
appetite that latent lies in every one to know the 
mountains. 

Lifted by motor-road to the very shoulder of the 
peak, we must travel the last mile of altitude over 
glacier trails and fields of rock and snow. But 
the way is not too arduous even for the inexperi- 
enced, if guides and first-aids-to-climbing are at 
hand. By the north route the ascent is sharp 
but direct. About five hours are required by the 
average climber to reach the top. When in this 
case one says " the top," he means the pinnacle 
of a hoary watcher of the world, two miles and 
over in the air, a summit whose sovereign view 
counts within its scope the crests of three ranges 
and many isolated buttes, the rivers just ascended, 
the tawny plains to the east, and labyrinthine 
forests inset with sparkling lakes. 

More difficult to climb than Adams, Mt. Hood 
(its name was bestowed by Lieutenant Broughton 
of Vancouver's Columbia expedition) is neverthe- 
less somewhat lower than its neighbour across the 
Columbia. When first climbed, in 1854, it was re- 
ported to be 19,400 feet high. Government topog- 
raphers have reduced this zealous estimate by about 
8000 feet. 

The hours spent at Cloud Cap, altar of the moun- 
tain, brim with exhilarating walks and minor 
climbs, with discovery — a water-mirror lost in 
the forests, the snow-god from new angles, — and 
with enjoyment indescribable of colour and atmos- 
pheric changes. 

Like all who have dwelt on mountain-tops, we 
descend with reluctance to more material planes. 



98 THE TOURIST'S NORTHWEST 

The river beckons toward The Dalles, reminding 
us that we have not yet seen the end of its attrac- 
tions. By road, the distance from Hood River 
to The Dalles is a bit over 23 miles. The grades 
are often steep, in contrast to those between Port- 
land and Hood River (64 m.), which never ex- 
ceed 5 per cent. Inclines both before and after 
reaching Mosier occasionally have a grade of 7 to 
20 per cent. The route lies for the most part 
away from the river bank through the apple, 
peach, pear, prune and cherry orchards of Wasco 
County, of which The Dalles is county seat. 

In the summer of 1915, pioneering parties continued from 
The Dalles by a road at times superior both as to grades 
and quality to circum-motor Mt. Hood, going south to 
Dufur and Wapinitia, through the bunch grass country of 
north central Oregon, and west along the old Barlow trail 
to Portland, by way of Government Camp and Gresham, 
the total number of miles covered (Portland -Portland) be- 
ing 253. Transcontinental automobilists say this loop in- 
volves "every variety of road and every variety of scenery 
that is afforded on a tour entirely across the United States." 

A road of many turns connects The Dalles with main 
highways in Washington, via Grand Dalles, Sunnyside, 
North Yakima and Ellensburg. 

By Steamboat, Portland — The Dalles. 4 

The best general view of the river is afforded 
from the deck of a moving boat. The heights 

4 Every day but Sunday and Monday, daylight excursion 
steamers, moderately comfortable but much inferior in size 
and appointments to those on other scenic rivers at all com- 
parable with the Columbia, leave foot of Alder Street at 
7 a.m. On Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday mornings a 
slow boat leaves at 8:30. Passengers by the latter can re- 
turn from the cascades by Bailey Oatzert on the down trip 
from The Dalles the same day, arriving in Portland about 
10 p. m. Minimum time, Portland to Cascade Locks, 4>y 2 
hrs.; to The Dalles, 8 hrs. Round trip fare to Locks, $1.50; 
Sunday excursion (9 a.m.), $1. Single fare Portland to 
The Dalles, $1 ; return $9. Fare one way by boat and one 



COLUMBIA RIVER. EASTERN OREGON 99 

which surmount the Columbia Highway come into 
the picture, Mt. Hood adds its note to the har- 
mony of the landscape. 

Voyaging on the river itself we are more at one 
with it, and every island, every curving meadow- 
bank, every cliff that rises from the water-edge 
to reveal its woof of moss and chased stone woven 
with streamy threads of silver, confirms this feel- 
ing. 

For the first twelve miles out of Portland the 
Willamette is followed, beneath three of its 
bridges, to the meeting with the Columbia. The 
Broadway Bridge, the one furthest north, was 
completed in 1913, at a cost of over a million and 
a half dollars. This and the railway bridges 
across the Willamette and the Columbia, notable 
for their length and engineering, were built by 
Ralph Modjeski, son of a famous mother. The 
year 1915 saw the realisation of a plan over 
which legislatures had temporised, but which two 
counties in opposite states brought to fulfilment. 
The Commercial Clubs of Portland and Vancouver 
were the forces which spurred the people of Mult- 
nomah County, Oregon, and Clarke County, Wash- 
ington, to undertake at their own expense the 
construction of a highway drawbridge across the 
Columbia. A steel structure three miles long will 
unite the two shores sometime in 1916. Mult- 
nomah County made itself responsible for $1,250,- 
000 worth of bonds, Clarke County voting the bal- 
ance of the total cost, which is $1,750,000. 

Vancouver, at the Washington end of the new 
inter-state bridge, is 6 miles by rail from Port- 
land, 8 miles by road, and 18 miles by river. It 

way by rail, to Cascade Locks and back, $2; to Hood River 
and back, $2.90; to The Dalles and back, $3.60. 



100 THE TOURIST'S NORTHWEST 

was named for the Discoverer by Broughton in 
1792. In later years it was the landing-place of 
voyageurs and fur-traders, the Hudson's Bay post 
having been established at this point in 1825. 

As the prow of the boat points east, we look 
from base to summit on the dome which John 
Muir describes as giving " the supreme touch of 
grandeur to all Columbia views, rising at every 
turn, solitary, majestic, awe-inspiring, the ruling 
spirit of the landscape." Beyond the mouth of 
Salmon River, we sail past the tree-shadowed 
flanks of Rooster Rock and beneath the turrets 
of Cape Horn into the matchless realm of Colum- 
bia's waterfalls and battlemented precipices. St. 
Peter's Dome, unseen from the highway, rises 
like a pale-hued campanile from a massive pedestal 
at the head of Oneonta Gorge. Still higher tow- 
ers Cathedral Point. Many of the hills are walled 
about the rim and shored by long shafts of rock, 
as if fortified by nature against assault. Between 
the heights are green valleys which narrow to a 
canyon's width near the level of the river. 

The steamer calls at places on the Washington 
shore where produce is loaded and unloaded, and 
camping parties going into the hills put off their 
equipment. Huge salmon wheels constructed on 
the edge of the stream are frequent sources of in- 
terest, though summer excursionists rarely experi- 
ence the excitement of glimpsing so much as a 
single shiny tail in the revolving cups which dip 
and re-dip the water. Kipling speaks of coming 
down from The Dalles in a boat which stopped 
to pick up a night's catch of one of the salmon 
wheels. Twenty-two hundred and thirty pounds 
of Chinook were taken from the troughs. Later 
he visited a cannery " up a fishy incline." 



COLUMBIA RIVER. EASTERN OREGON 101 

At the cascades there is a fall of 50 feet within 
a half-mile. The water froths over the ledges 
and piled boulders which halted navigation at this 
point until the Government spent, in 1896, several 
millions to build locks on the south side of the 
channel. Here, " when every ripple of the Co- 
lumbia hid covert danger," ruffian Indians used 
to waylay travellers by canoe, and like the bri- 
gands of Tarifa, levy toll on their goods. As 
a defence against the Klickitats a blockhouse was 
built in 1856 on the north side of the rapids by 
Lieutenant Philip Sheridan, better known later 
as " General Phil." 

White Salmon, opposite Hood River, is the place 
of disembarkment for cliff resorts on the Wash- 
ington border, and for pilgrimages to Mt. Adams. 
Seven miles beyond lies the long lava " Isle of 
Sepulture," the Chinook Valhalla, Memaloose. 
For unnumbered years the Indians brought their 
dead here for burial, even though the performance 
of the rite entailed many weary miles of travel. 
Lewis and Clark describe the island in detail. In 
contrast with its dun sides stands a white monu- 
ment raised over the grave of one, Victor Trevet 
of The Dalles, who, friendly to the Indians in 
life, elected their companionship in death. 

The Dalles. 

Dalles City began life over seventy years ago as 
a Methodist mission station. After the Cayuse 
War it became a military post, commanded in the 
'50's by Grant and Sheridan. The settlement 
was advanced commercially by the miners' rush to 
Idaho in 1862. It is to-day one of the two or 
three most important wool shipping-points in the 



102 THE TOURIST'S NORTHWEST 

United States, though the region hereabouts de- 
pends less on sheep and more on wheat for pros- 
perity than formerly. Fifteen years ago there 
were very lively scenes in June at the arrival of 
ten- and twelve-horse wagon hauling the wool- 
clip. Thousands of sheep roaming the sage- 
dotted hills of northern Oregon produce in a year 
about a million and a half pounds of wool. The 
average weight of a fleece is eight pounds, its mini- 
mum value about a dollar and a quarter. North- 
ern Wasco County is the Florida of Oregon. The 
green grocers of Portland receive asparagus from 
its gardens the first of May, strawberries in the 
second week of May, lasting till October, peaches 
in June, grapes toward the end of July. Here 
one hears typical Oregon tales of acre patches 
that annually yield nine hundred dollars' worth 
of beans, of woodlands turned into prosperous 
vineyards, and artichokes that give 500 sacks to 
the acre. 

The City of The Dalles conforms to a bend in 
the river. Its sightly location is enhanced by 
the white cone of Mt. Hood, which climbs above 
a dip in the hills directly back of the town. The 
Dalles proper are the laminated sheets of cooled 
lava whose red-brown masses overflow the path 
of the Columbia six miles upstream. The river, 
which drains an area of 237,000 square miles, has 
a maximum discharge at The Dalles of 1,390,000 
cubic feet per second. Having gleaned its tribu- 
tary waters on the way through British Columbia, 
Washington and Oregon, and pushed wide its 
banks as its volume grew, the Columbia below 
Celilo Falls is of a sudden crushed into a channel 
no more than a few score yards across. Nordhoff 
remarks in his book written a generation ago, 



COLUMBIA RIVER. EASTERN OREGON 103 

"Of course water is not subject to compression; 
the volume of the river is not diminished; what 
happens, as you perceive when you see this sin- 
gular freak of nature, is that the river is sud- 
denly turned up on its edge. Suppose it is, above 
The Dalles, a mile wide and fifty feet deep ; at the 
narrow gorge it is but a hundred yards wide — 
how deep must it be? Certainly it can be cor- 
rectly said that the stream is turned up on its 
edge." 

The volcanic dalles (the word is of French ori- 
gin, dalle, a trough) obstruct the river-bed for a 
distance of 10 or 12 miles. At Celilo the river 
has a minimum drop of 40 feet. Not until the 
summer of 1915 were any vessels able to ascend 
beyond the mouth of the torrential gully. De- 
scending canoes and small vessels used occasion- 
ally to take the chute at high water, but once 
below the rapids, there was no returning to Celilo, 
except by portage. In 1905, Oregon ceded a 
right-of-way to the United States for the building 
of a long-mooted canal. The river was first 
dredged at Three Mile Rapids to a channel depth 
of 10 feet at low water ; concrete river walls were 
then sunk and lock gates installed at an estimated 
total cost of nearly $5,000,000. A steamer en- 
tering the Columbia at Astoria can now go 400 
miles to Priest Rapids on the Columbia, and 550 
miles to Pittsburgh Landing on the Snake River, 
beyond Lewiston, Idaho. About three hours is 
consumed in passing through this portal to em- 
pires beyond. 

An Excursion into Central Oregon. 

From The Dalles, the Great Southern Railway 
(41 miles long) runs through a productive valley 



104 THE TOURIST'S NORTHWEST 

to Dufur and Friend. Connection by rail and 
the Central Oregon Highway is also made from 
The Dalles and Celilo via Moody, Sherman, Mad- 
ras and Redmond with Bend, 160 miles south of 
The Dalles. 

Until the Hill and Harriman interests built into 
the Deschutes Valley a few years ago, central 
Oregon was the largest territory in the United 
States without rail transportation. It was known 
to Indians and cattle-rangers only. iEons be- 
fore, it had been the tramping-ground of the sloth 
and the mastodon, whose bones still encumber 
these plains. The Grand Canyon of the River of 
Falls (des chutes) forms a hundred-mile-long 
panorama (culminating in majesty about mid-way 
to Bend) of ribbed and bright-coloured cliffs 
which rise straight from the water and are 
heightened by hills a thousand feet in altitude. 
Lateral bands of rose and fawn contrast with bis- 
cuit-coloured bluffs patched and bordered with 
green herbage. Above the high plateaux trav- 
ersed by this tumultuous waterway, Mt. Hood, 
Mt. Jefferson, Mt. Washington and the Three Sis- 
ters lift their spectral forms, and bald and lonely 
buttcs keep watch over the hummocky desert and 
the ranches of planters and stock men. East- 
ward range the Blue Mountains like a misty cre- 
nate wall. 

The southeastern border of Wasco County is 
marked by the River John Day, whose gorge is 
flanked by steeps 3500 to 5000 feet above the 
bed. John Day, whose name is also borne by sev- 
eral minor streams, was a Virginia hunter of 
superb physique and prowess. He crossed the 
Rockies with Wilson Hunt, one of John Jacob 
Astor's partners, and suffered unspeakable hard- 






COLUMBIA RIVER. EASTERN OREGON 105 

ship with him in the winter of 1809-10. Occa- 
sionally they caught beaver; they ate their moc- 
casins and the dried pods of wild roses. In the 
spring they walked down the Columbia Valley. 
They were assailed and robbed by Indians 15 
miles east of Celilo, where the river named for 
Day meets the Columbia. The Oregon - Wash- 
ington Railway has given the Virginian's name to 
the station at the junction of the rivers. Stripped 
of clothing, food and arms, the two unfortunates 
were driven off by the savages, and would have 
perished but for a providential meeting with Ro- 
bert Stuart, who took them in his canoes to As- 
toria. Day died insane a year later, but his com- 
panion returned and brought to book their as- 
sailants. 

Crook County, south of Wasco, has a population 
of two persons to each one of its 6000 square 
miles, and 91 per cent, of the inhabitants are 
American born. Great irrigating works are in 
process of construction which will eventually af- 
fect an area of 250,000 acres. The western 
slopes of the Deschutes Valley are covered with 
forests of pine trees which afford remotely attrac- 
tive camping-places, and excellent bear, cougar, 
wild cat and deer hunting for sportsmen. 

Round trip excursion tickets are sold by the Spokane, Port- 
land and Seattle and Oregon - Washington Roads to De- 
schutes River fishing resorts. Wagon-roads radiate in sev- 
eral directions from Bend, present terminus of the railway. 

Daily auto stage, Bend -Klamath Falls, 150 miles; fare, 
$11.50. The Oregon, California and Eastern Railway is 
projected between these two points. By motor highway 
west over McKenzie Pass to Eugene, the distance from Bend 
in central Oregon to the Willamette Valley is 125 miles. 
Bend -Silver Lake - Lakeview in southern Oregon, 180 miles 
by daily auto stage; fare, $25. Bend - Brookings - Burns 
(140 m.) -Ontario, in eastern Oregon, 300 miles. Ontario 
is the point on the Idaho - Oregon border crossed by the 



106 THE TOURIST'S NORTHWEST 

Oregon Trail, over which the pioneers journeyed to the 
Northwest. 

Eastern Oregon via The Dalles. 

The main line of the Oregon - Washington Rail- 
road follows the south bank of the Columbia for 
100 miles from The Dalles to Umatilla, putting 
out, en route, short branches to Shaniko, Condon 
and Heppner, each the centre of an extensive 
wheat area. North of Umatilla, the railroad's 
Washington lines proceed to Walla Walla, North 
Yakima and Spokane. 

The road which turns away from the Columbia 
at Umatilla, and goes south to Pendleton (44 m.), 
is part of the continental Union Pacific System 
through Oregon, Idaho, Utah, Wyoming, Colo- 
rado and Nebraska. The route tracked now by 
gleaming rails is the one first furrowed by the 
wheels of the emigrants' wagons — the Oregon 
trail. From Omaha, on the Missouri River, the 
adventurers from the East and the Mid-West took 
their way across Nebraska to Casper, Wyoming, 
and to Independence Rock, where all who passed, 
including Lieutenant Fremont, inscribed the record 
of their journey; thence by the Sweetwater River 
to South Pass, and across the present State of 
Idaho to Boise City. The Oregon Country was 
broached at Ontario, near Vale, and the route con- 
tinued in a northwesterly direction through Baker, 
La Grande, Pendleton and The Dalles, and so down 
the Columbia, or by the Barlow Road south of 
Mt. Hood, to the Willamette Valley. The pio- 
neers' carts paused on the plains of eastern Ore- 
gon only that the occupants might stretch their 
cramped limbs, and feed and rest, the 



COLUMBIA RIVER. EASTERN OREGON 107 

. . . great yoked brutes with briskets low, 
With wrinkled necks like buffalo 

That seemed to plead and make replies, 

The while they bowed their necks and drew 

The creaking load. . . . 

The hopes of the incoming procession were fixed 
upon the enchanted vale beyond the Cascades; 
none of all the throng that passed this way be- 
tween 1843 and 1859 imagined that the tract, 
whose crossing was a dread and a weariness, 
would some day be a sea of grain fields, and pas- 
ture a million cattle. 

Washington Irving wrote that " the desert of 
sand and gravel " between the Snake and the 
Columbia had insufficient herbage to feed " horse 
or buffalo," and opined that this vast territory 
" must ever defy cultivation." 

Umatilla County for wheat acreage, yield per 
acre and total annual production of wheat (5,- 
000,000 bushels) excels all the countries of Ore- 
gon. Nearly 50,000 acres are under irrigation 
in Umatilla basin, where the " dust soil " is so 
rich in fertile substances that an acre in some dis- 
tricts yields ten tons of alfalfa a year, cut in three 
crops. Grapes, apricots, almonds and berries are 
also grown, and sheep rove in immense herds on 
the hills. Echo, 20 miles south of Umatilla sta- 
tion, has a wool-scouring plant covering five acres, 
where 2,500,000 pounds of wool are processed an- 
nually. 

Approaching Pendleton, the judicial seat and 
distributing center of Umatilla County, the 1800- 
foot rock is visible, by which the immigrants were 
piloted west from the Blue Mountains. Pendle- 
ton's liveliest interest for the stranger is the Sep- 
tember exhibition of cowboys' feats and races at 



106 THE TOURIST'S NORTHWEST 

the annual Round-up, already described at some 
length under " Sports and Festivals," in Chapter 
Two. At any other period of the year Pendleton 
is to the new arrival just a well-built and energetic 
frontier town, whose 6000 inhabitants are as 
friendly and brisk as the ideal of the frequently 
disillusioned Easterner conceives all far western 
communities to be. A loyal ranger rhymes it : 

Out where the hand clasp's a little stronger, 
Out where the smile dwells a little longer, 

Out where a fresher breeze is blowing, 

Where there's more of reaping and less of sowing — 

Pendleton, that's where the West begins. . . . 

The stranger who stays awhile in Pendleton 
senses by degrees the spirit of the fabled West. 
Veteran plainsmen have narratives to relate of 
Hank Vaughn and others of his ilk, who enlivened 
with their bravado and reckless frays the pre- 
respectable epoch of Pendleton. Hank, whose 
pseudonym alone prepares us for gun-fraught 
tales, was a gambler and a fighter of evil prowess, 
says a Pendleton journal, and, according to Lue 
Vernon, a distant acquaintance hereafter quoted, 
was not averse to acquiring others' livestock if 
the impulse drew him. " Hank had a revolver 
duel in Prineville with Charlie Long, another 
' bad man.' Long, before this shooting scrape 
at Prineville, used to haul wood into Heppner, 
and was well known in that town. Vaughn and 
Long had never seen each other prior to their 
meeting in Till Glaze's saloon in Prineville. They 
were known by reputation to each other, and had 
made threats as to what they would do, should they 
ever come face to face. They met in Glaze's place 
one summer's afternoon, argued over who was the 



COLUMBIA RIVER. EASTERN OREGON 109 

best man with a gun and agreed to 'shoot it out' 
to determine the question. 

" The men sat down to a round poker table, and 
at a signal from a friend of theirs, they arose and 
emptied their guns at each other. Both fell, and 
when the smoke cleared a bit (no smokeless cart- 
ridges in those days) both were thought dead. 
But such was not the case. When Hank was lifted 
from the floor he offered to bet $500 he would live 
longer than Long. But both men lived to tell the 
tale. What is more, they were the best of friends 
afterward — good to each other as long as they 
lived. Charlie Long always limped after the 
shooting. Vaughn lost the use of a muscle in his 
right arm, I think, from a bullet received during 
the encounter. 

" When Hank played ' faro bank ' in Pendleton 
there was something doing. ' Hank Vaughn's in 
town ! ' was the word passed from one to another. 

" I remember one time I was on a train going to 
Spokane Falls (it was called Spokane Falls instead 
of Spokane, during the days I am speaking of), 
and I met Hank, who was also ticketed to Spokane 
Falls. Two men boarded the train and under- 
took to ride without paying railroad fare. Both 
had Colt's revolvers and swore they would ride 
or hurt some one. It was in the summer time and 
Hank was trying to take a c snooze,' as he called 
it. When the conductor, a small-sized man, came 
through collecting fares, the two ' bad ' men re- 
fused to pay. They swore by all that was holy 
that all the Northern Pacific employes from Port- 
land to St. Paul could not make them pay fare or 
put them off. 

" When Hank saw that the conductor was get- 
ting the worst of it, he took a good stretch, yawned 



110 THE TOURIST'S NORTHWEST 

several times and, quick as a flash, struck the 
largest bully over the head with his own silver- 
plated pistol, took him to the platform of the car 
and kicked him off. Every one expected the other 
desperado to kill Hank, but he began to beg for 
mercy, but Hank took him by the collar and — 
well, I never saw a ' bad ' man get the drubbing 
this fellow received. Hank was the hero of the 
hour — every one wanted to be the first to shake 
his hand. . . . 

" Hank was famous in Pendleton and Walla Wal- 
la for his fast riding and fast drives. He always 
paid for what he destroyed, it seems, and nothing 
was ever said about it. Of course you know 
Vaughn met death in Pendleton from being thrown 
from a horse, while riding recklessly up and down 
the streets." 

" Thirty years ago," says Lot Livermore, dean 
of Pendleton pioneers and first mayor of the town, 
" robbing stages was one of the recognised busi- 
nesses of Eastern Oregon. I come pretty near 
knowing, for I was the Wells Fargo agent as well 
as the agent for the stage line for many years." 

Time was when passengers between Pendleton 
and Umatilla accepted with considerable equa- 
nimity the halting of their stage by an armed 
bandit. The drivers of those early conveyances 
now sit securely their familiar boxes and hold taut 
the reins in the rattling stage-coach races at the 
Round-up. Bronzed and reminiscent, one finds 
" old-timers " around the new post office, or down 
at Powers's or Hamley's, where carved saddlery, 
chaps and lariats are made for the annual prizes. 

Besides the saddle-makers' establishments, which 
invariably attract the stranger, there is a blanket 
factory whose product, woven in Indian hues and 



COLUMBIA RIVER. EASTERN OREGON 111 

patterns, carries the name of Pendleton far be- 
yond the limits of the neighbouring Reservation, 
where Cayuse and Umatilla dwell. 

As the Round-up date approaches, muscular 
figures in the livery of the range, strings of dap- 
pled Roman-nosed horses unaccustomed to the 
town, free-riding Indians and their muffled squaws, 
are seen in increasing numbers on Pendleton's 
streets, and personals like these appear in the 
papers concerning the year's performers : 

Among the fancy ropers here are Cuba Crutchfield, un- 
doubtedly the foremost master of the lariat in the world, 
Sammy Garrett, Tommy Grimes, Bee Ho Gay and Bertha 
Blanchett. Bee Ho Gay won the world's championship in 
fancy and trick roping at the 1915 Cheyenne show. 

John Spain won the championship in the bucking here in 
1911. He lost his right hand at Halfway, Oregon, July 
4, 1912, when it became entangled in a rope. He may ride 
at the Round-up this year to show that it is not necessary 
for him to "pull leather" to stick on a horse, in spite of 
the loss of his hand. 

Miss Ruth Parton, the popular champion relay rider of 
North Yakima, is one of the most skilful horsewomen in 
the country. She won the cowgirl's relay race last year 
at Pendleton and Walla Walla. Miss Parton has made 
a specialty of her celebrated exhibit which she calls "the 
Cowgirl's Drunken Ride." She is an enthusiastic autoist and 
is eighteen years old. 

Miss Lola Beach, one of the popular cowgirls competing this 
year, was prevented from participating in the show last 
year on account of a broken arm. She has been visiting this 
Summer in her home in Kalispell, Montana, where she 
found the people very enthusiastic over the Round-up. 

Buffalo Vernon, the spectacular all-around cowboy, had a 
narrow escape from death a few years ago. Buffalo was 
about to bulldog a steer. The ground was particularly wet 
and the steer entered so far into the spirit of the struggle 
as to fight with great ferocity. The pair fought furiously 
for fifteen minutes before the steer got in a solar plexus 
with his long horns. Vernon ducked and swung under, 
but the long prongs missed him by a shade, catching his 



112 THE TOURIST'S NORTHWEST 

nether garment full in the slack, and ripping the trousers 
asunder. Minus his pants, the roper continued the struggle 
to the immense interest of the audience, and finally won a 
victory over the steer. 

And prints are a- jingle with ballads of cayuse 
and vacquero : 

. . . But I must tighten my latigo 

For I'm off with the morning's first faint glow, 

Over the sagebrush plains I ride, 

Like a buccaneer on a rising tide. 

With new sombrero and silver spurs 
I'll search the herd for stray " slick-ears," 
For I'm off to the Round-up sure this fall — 
My broncho and I. Say, I've got gall! 



Then tighten the cinch, take off the blind, 
Let 'er buck in front; let 'er buck behind, 
We'll both go up and come down together, 
But I hope to die if I pull leather. 

Occasionally one comes on a bit like " The 
Maverick " in the Evening Tribune, depository of 
cowboy verse. 

I loped among the wildest brands 

Of saddle hating winners, 
Gay colts that never felt a brand 

And scared old outlaw sinners. 
The world was pasture wide for us, 

The wind was rein and girth for us, 
And our wild name was pride for us, 

High-headed, bronco sinners! 

So loose and light we raced and fought, 

And every range we tasted, 
And now since I'm corralled and caught, 

I know those days were wasted. 
From now the all-day gait for me ! 

The trail that's hard but straight for me! 
Far down that trail who'll wait for me? 

Ay! Those old ways were wasted. 



COLUMBIA RIVER. EASTERN OREGON 113 

The poet is a Flathead Indian and Round-up 
performer from Poison, Montana. " His pals say 
he can ride anything to a standstill ; that his fear- 
lessness and skill are almost unequalled in the 
Montana country." 

The stadium where the most characteristic of 
Western spectacles is staged occupies several acres 
on the edge of the town. The exhibition grounds 
are surrounded on three sides by grandstands, 
which seat tens of thousands of thrilled spectators. 
A field beyond the race-course gives space for wait- 
ing wide-hatted groups of performers on broncho- 
back or afoot, in sheepskins, striped blankets or 
divided skirts; for idle stage-coach and prairie- 
wagon; for the tepees of Indians, who, though con- 
trolled now, have the blood of the wildest in them, 
and for the corrals of steers and tamed, half-tamed 
and wholly untamed horses. 

Besides its newly earned park, Pendleton is proud 
of its manual training school, of its library and 
Federal building, its hotels, its mills and foundries, 
its city water system and electric-lighted streets. 
Decidedly, Pendleton is not a place to be missed. 

From Pendleton to Walla Walla, across the 
Washington border, is a matter of 47 miles. If 
one is going on to Spokane, he will journey another 
200 miles to the north. 

Leaving or entering the State by the main line 
of the Oregon — Washington Railroad, the travel- 
ler will get a view from the train of the Umatilla 
Indian Reservation, which is also visited from 
Pendleton by automobile. South of the Reserva- 
tion, the Blue Mountains are crossed and the Great 
Round Valley entered at La Grande. This im- 
mense fertile amphitheatre has an altitude of 



114, THE TOURIST'S NORTHWEST 

nearly 2800 feet. The mountains which enclose 
it, and shed the moisture of clouds and beneficent 
streams upon it are the highest in this part of Ore- 
gon. Some of the rough peaks of the Eagle or 
Power Range, east of the valley, climb 7000 feet 
above the plain and 10,000 feet above sea level. A 
floor of wheat-fields is laid from base to base of 
the encircling scarp. Eight-horse thrashers beat 
out the grain ; on steep hillsides thrive sheep, cat- 
tle and cherry trees. If one stops off at La 
Grande, it is to see its monster saw mills, and per- 
haps to spend a day at the summer Chautauqua 
held in Riverside Park. A still better reason 
for leaving the rail highway here is the wonderful 
alpine lake to which a branch road climbs 
among the crags, canyons and lofty plateaux 
of the Wallowa Valley for a distance of 84 
miles. This mountain paradise, over which Wal- 
lowa Lake presides like a scintillant houri, would 
in any state with a lesser heritage of scenic 
grandeur than Oregon be a signal tourist attrac- 
tion. Few except herders, ranchers and big game 
hunters know the majesty of its narrow gorges, or 
have heard the clamouring voices of its descending 
creeks and rivers. Many regions not so magnifi- 
cent, and removed by days of hard travel from the 
railway, are more visited and described. A four- 
hour train j ourney from La Grande along the base 
of straight-standing heights brings us to Joseph 
(4100 ft.). A mile to the south, a white-crested 
range shuts in the lake, whose waters fill a bed of 
unknown depth. 

The name of the settlement on the lake shore 
commemorates Chief Joseph of the Nez Perces 
who in defence of his ancestral holdings, defied 
in 1877 the forces of General O. O. Howard in the 



COLUMBIA RIVER. EASTERN OREGON 115 

Wallowa Valley, eluded the white troops, and 
fled by a succession of forced marches across the 
mountains, hoping to reach the old Nez Perce 
Reserve on the borders of Canada. Near Chinook, 
Montana, 200 miles east of Glacier National Park, 
the valiant warrior was subdued, and thereafter 
was banished from his beloved Wallowa Country, 
for which he mourned until his death. His father, 
also named Joseph, had been present at the great 
Walla Walla council twenty years before, and in 
return for a service done the Whites had asked, 
and believed he had been given these lands for all 
time. 

The hottest mineral spring in the world, if we are 
to believe its promoters, is 9 miles below La 
Grande. The Hot Lake Sanitarium offers a com- 
plete course of hydropathic treatment. Another 
thermal establishment, reached by a 20-mile drive 
from Union or Baker, is situated at an altitude 
of 3400 feet, midway between these two stations 
on the railway. 

Baker, 50 miles south of La Grande, is a centre 
of new development in irrigation, lumber and 
mines. The county of which it is the trade and 
social capital ranks highest in the State in hay and 
gold production. Broad level areas are capped 
on all sides by the Blue Mountains and two spurs, 
the mountains of the Powder River and the Burnt 
River. It is said that the three most extensive 
mineral zones known are tributary to Baker. In 
the Cornucopia, Rainbow and Sumpter Valley dis- 
tricts, hundreds of pestles operated by power 
crush an average of $1,500,000 worth of gold 
each year. Baker's exceedingly attractive and 
sturdy appearance is partially accounted for by 
the use of a native stone which cuts readily, like 



116 THE TOURIST'S NORTHWEST 

the limestone of Portugal, and hardens in use. 
Many stage routes run out of Baker to mining 
camps. 

The upper half of Oregon's eastern boundary is 
formed by the Snake River (called also the Mad 
River, and the River Lewis) from its junction 
with the Owyhee River, 50 miles below the little 
town of Huntington. From the latter station, 
which is 50 miles south of Baker, a railroad fol- 
lows the Snake on its northward course to Home- 
stead, a mining camp, 58 miles distant. Small 
river boats ply this tortuous and historic stream, 
touching landings first on the Oregon, then on the 
Idaho shore. 

Between Huntington, Umatilla, Bend and Lake- 
view there is enclosed a circle of Oregon territory, 
300 to 400 miles in diameter, which is penetrated 
by but two railways, and those from the east. 
The Sumpter Valley branch from Baker crosses 
the Blue Mountains to Prairie City (80 m.). The 
Oregon — Washington extension, Ontario — Vale — 
Riverside (92 m.), is to be carried on another 
60 miles to Arden in Harney County, and will 
eventually cross to meet the Klamath Falls — 
Eugene cut-off of the Southern Pacific line. For 
years to come, however, this great east central 
tableland, for the most part rolling and treeless, 
will continue as in the past, a region traversed 
by wagon-roads only, and by the trails of cattle- 
rangers. Conveyance is by automobile or saddle- 
horse. Once counted fit for breeding livestock 
solely, this sage brush desert is to-day blossoming 
with fruit and grain, and without irrigation, dry 
farming being the rule. 

The monarch of the Harney Valley is " Bill " 



COLUMBIA RIVER. EASTERN OREGON 117 

Hanley, " discoverer of central Oregon." His 
holdings amount to hundreds of thousands of 
acres. A constructionist as long of vision and 
broad of heart as his possessions are vast, he has 
influenced Federal legislation to release State 
resources for the use of the people, has pointed the 
way to builders of railroads, and wisely directed 
colonisation. The superintendent of all the Han- 
ley ranches is Tom Allen. 

Says the OregonicCn, anent a visit of the <c King 
of the Buckaroos " to Portland after a lapse of 
five years, " during which he had never been beyond 
the sound of the coyote's yell," " Eastern Oregon 
is still the cowboy's country. Tom Allen is its 
indispensable son. He travels about the railroad- 
less territory summer and winter, through storms 
and stifling heat, through mosquito-infested swamp 
and alkali desert. Every week in the year he 
visits the 20 odd ranches, knows all the broken 
horses by name and is the everlasting friend of 
the lonely children living 70 and 80 miles from a 
town. In the winter-time he is the dispenser of 
news, for the mail man seldom gets around to the 
remote sections of Harney County. He is the link 
that connects civilisation to the human beings 
pioneering in the semi-arid lands miles and miles 
from railroads and the cross-roads store." 

Malheur County, whose northeasterm limits are 
defined by the Snake River and the Oregon Short 
Line, is longer than the State of Indiana is wide 
and has more acreage than Massachusetts. It 
contains a tenth of Oregon's total area. Of this 
tenth, over 500,000 acres are unappropriated 
public lands, 700,000 acres are privately owned, 
and 240,000 acres are under cultivation. The 



118 THE TOURIST'S NORTHWEST 

counties of southeastern Oregon are generously 
proportioned, if scantily populated except by the 
coyote, the puma and the porcupine. 

The Journal of Peter Skene Ogden (see Note 5, 
Chapter Nine) says the " Rivier Malheur (Un- 
fortunate River) " was so named " because this is 
the place where our goods were discovered and 
stolen by the Americans last year." 

Ontario, Malheur County — Boise City, Idaho, on a branch 
of the Oregon Short Line, 60 miles. The capital and chief 
mining town of Idaho was called by the French, " Wooded," 
because of the trees that once covered its site. 

The Snake River, whose picturesque canyon between Weiser 
and Huntington is viewed from the car window, carves its 
deepest gorge, and in striking fashion, about 150 miles south- 
east of Boise City, near Twin Falls City. Branch from 
Minidoka (200 m. from Boise) — Twin Falls City, 59 miles. 
Twin Falls City - Shoshone Falls, 5 miles by road. The 
Twin Falls have a descent of 180 feet; the Shoshone leaps 
" with wall-like straightness " 200 feet from a crescent- 
shaped ledge, whose width is variously given as from 700 
to 900 feet. Lieutenant Fremont named the great fall, the 
Niagara of the West. The river grinds its way between 
lava walls 4000 to 5000 feet high, dashing spray against its 
confines. 

About Twin Falls, where the Snake divides around a crenel- 
lated boulder frowned upon by barren hills, a heroic recla- 
mation project has been successfully undertaken. The 
Milner Dam is 2000 feet long, and 80 feet high. 

The American Falls of the Snake River are sighted from 
the train, half-way between Minidoka and Pocatello, Idaho. 
Connection is made at Pocatello for Yellowstone National 
Park, 150 miles to the northeast. 

Portland to Astoria. 
By Steamboat. 

Daily except Sunday in the summer season, O.-W. R. & 
N. service from Ash Street dock. Sailings at 8 p. m. Time 
to Astoria, 10 hours, distance 98 miles. 

Daily except Monday, steamer Georgiana leaves foot of 
Washington Street 7 a.m., returning to the same dock at 

9 P.M. 

Local steamboats run from Portland to Vancouver and 



COLUMBIA RIVER. EASTERN OREGON 119 

Kalama, Washington, and to Rainier and Clatskanie, Ore- 
gon, all on the lower Columbia. 

By Rail. 

Spokane, Portland and Seattle south bank line to Astoria 
(100 m.)» daily trains in 3-4 hours, from the North Bank 
Station at Tenth and Hoyt Streets. Steamer trains direct 
to Astoria and Flavel (107 m.), Tuesday, Thursday and 
Saturday in summer season, at 9 :30 a. m., arriving at the 
docks of the Great Northern Pacific Steamship Company 
in 4 hours. 

By Road. 

The cross-country road between Portland, Buxton (36 m.) 
and Astoria (120 m.), and the Columbia Highway, Port- 
land - Scappoose (20 m.)-St. Helens (29 m.)-Goble (42 
m.) -Rainier (49 m.) -Clatskanie (65 m.) - Astoria (100 
m.), afford varied scenery on the way from the Willamette 
to the sea. 

This section of the Columbia Highway is of later construc- 
tion than the road between Portland and up-river points. 

The first adventurers who rode the lower reaches 
of the Columbia remarked its level sedgy shores 
relieved by occasional cliffs and by verdant high- 
lands receding from the water. The Oregon 
marshes are the resort of swarms of water-fowl, 
and are much visited by hunters. Opposite Rai- 
nier, a farm, fish and lumber centre, the Cowlitz 
River casts in its lot with the Columbia for the 
journey to the sea. Another point of interest 
on the Washington side is Mt. Coffin — an ancient 
burial place of the Indians. Below Clatskanie, 
where the river broadens, the channel is strewn 
with large islands ; some that are hilly and well- 
wooded are romantically associated with fisher- 
men's feuds and the illicit operations of traffickers 
in spirits. 

The seining grounds, staked with nets and alive 
with little boats, are before us when we have made 
the next wide curve with the stream. The nets 



120 THE TOURIST'S NORTHWEST 

full of fish are drawn in by hand or by horse 
power. Canneries are near by on the shore to re- 
ceive the day's harvest. A famous river-mark 
is Pillar Rock which stands 40 feet above the 
water at some distance from the Washington bor- 
der. 

Thirty miles above its mouth, the Columbia is 6 
miles wide. Before it reaches Astoria its breadth 
is 9 miles from shore to shore. Little wonder that 
navigators seeking the River of the West passed 
it by, thinking its ostiary but a great bay of the 
ocean. 

Below the outlet of still another John Day River 
is the long peninsula which the partners of Astor 
the fur merchant chose in 1811 as the site of their 
settlement. Fifteen miles further on, the river 
merges its flood with that of the Pacific. 

Astoria. 

The whole of the United States participates in 
the history of the principal fishing-town on the 
Columbia, for though of brief duration, the Pacific 
Fur Company's occupancy of this point of land 
in 1811 constituted the first American settlement 
on the Pacific Coast. Six years before the 
Tonquin arrived bearing the fur-traders, President 
Jefferson's envoys, Lewis and Clark, had wintered 
on Clatsop Meadows south of Astoria, but their 
camp was not established for purposes of trade 
or for permanent residence. Jefferson and his 
cabinet were in sympathy with the ambitions of 
the Rhenish trader and his associates who wished 
to dot the Mid- West and the West with fur posts 
whose catches should be delivered to the port on 
the Columbia, whence they should be despatched 



COLUMBIA RIVER. EASTERN OREGON 121 

for sale in China. John Jacob Astor, godfather 
of Astoria, was born in Waldorf, near Heidelberg. 
In 1783 he came from London to Hampton Roads, 
where he met a countryman who persuaded him to 
enter the fur trade between New York, London 
and Montreal. He was already a man of large 
means when he proposed the plan of carrying the 
fur traffic across the Rockies and controlling the 
commerce of the Pacific. But two years elapsed 
— eventful years, despairing and fearful — before 
the position of the Pacific Fur Company became 
untenable through rumours of America's war with 
England, and menaced attacks. Eventually the 
settlement and $100,000 worth of pelts passed into 
the hands of the British, the merchandise being 
purchased by the " Northwesters " at a third its 
value. The commander of an enemy frigate 
changed the name to Fort George, but the port 
again became Astoria at the return of peace in 
1818. In June of that year the U. S. S. Ontario 
arrived off the Columbia River, having been or- 
dered thither from Lima, Peru. The log of Cap- 
tain James Biddle relates that fifty officers and 
seamen crossed the bar in small boats and landed 
at a cove inside Cape Disappointment, on the 
north side of the river. " In the presence of 
several nations " the flag of the United States was 
displayed, a sod of soil was turned up and three 
cheers were given for the United States. There- 
upon, final possession was taken by nailing to a 
tree a leaden plate proclaiming this land as be- 
longing once more to the Americans. 

However, Astor's attempts at re-establishment 
were fruitless. The Canadians and British were 
in complete domination of trade on the Columbia, 
and thus perished the first enterprise intended to 



122 THE TOURIST'S NORTHWEST 

found " a commercial empire beyond the Moun- 
tains for the United States." 

The true story of primitive Astoria was told by 
Washington Irving at the solicitation of his friend, 
John Jacob Astor. 

Astoria of the hills interests itself no longer in 
peltry. To-day, its fortunes move with the tides, 
are founded on fish. Its own fleet of two thousand 
winged messengers, and smacks from other river- 
ports, bring to its hoppers millions of monster 
Chinooks to be dried, smoked, or packed pinkly 
into pink-labelled cans. Twenty-one thousand 
tons of salmon were taken from the Columbia in 
1915. Two-thirds of this catch was tinned in or 
near Astoria, thousands of people of many races 
being employed in the various processes of catch- 
ing and preserving the fish. 

The cans alone used in Astoria canneries repre- 
sent an investment of $350,000 a year, and the 
labels which advertise their contents, about $20,- 
000. The fisherman receives an average of five 
cents a pound for the " green " salmon, or about 
half the gross value of the pack. 

Astoria lives on and above the water, it thrives 
on what is brought from beneath the water, and it 
is surrounded on three quarters by the water. 
The city believes in its future and wears an opti- 
mistic smile. At its back are miles of forests and 
acres of rich pastures. Past its doors and to its 
great docks sail ships from all the world. It is 
both a sea and a fresh-water port, a market-place 
and an industrial centre. In the vicinity are great 
strawberry fields, cranberry bogs and dairy pas- 
tures. From the ridge above the town there is a 
queenly view of winding roads and waters and level 
delta lands, of mounting hills and snow peaks, a 



COLUMBIA RIVER. EASTERN OREGON 123 

view quite out of the ordinary in the sum and 
quality of its beauty. When at dawn or sunset 
shapely sails of fisher-boats flutter against the 
horizon, and river mists rise below, and the sea 
lies grey or rose beyond the outer shore of the 
continent, then one chafes at the inanity of ad- 
jectives, mentally thumbing his thesaurus for a 
single glowing word to express it all. 

For as many centuries as the Columbia is old 
the incoming and the outgoing tides have pitted 
their strength each day at the meeting of sea and 
river. The barrier of silt and sand piled at the 
mouth warned off the Columbia Rediviva, first craft 
to essay it. Since sail and funnel first entered the 
river, the bar has menaced the safety of ships. 
Operations extending over nearly forty years, but 
carried on with encouraging results principally 
within the past decade, have at last overcome this 
serious handicap to navigation and commerce. 
The Federal Government has expended many mil- 
lions in dredging a forty-foot channel in the vi- 
cinity of Cape Disappointment and Baker's Bay, 
and in throwing out from the shore long jetties 
to narrow the path of the river, so that its deeper 
flow shall eat away the bar and keep the passage 
free forever. 

The northwesternmost cape of Oregon is 
armoured by the guns of Fort Stevens, which is 
reached by road and railway from Astoria via 
Warrenton and Fiavel. On the Washington side 
of the Columbia outlet is Fort Canby, guarded by 
the lighthouse on Cape Disappointment, 100 feet 
above the sea. 

At Astoria the O.-W. R. & N. Co. makes connection twice 
every week-day for Megler, Wash., 4y 2 miles across the 
Columbia. Trains run from this station to North Beach 



124 THE TOURIST'S NORTHWEST 

resorts as far as Nahcotta (26 m.). Here a steamer con- 
nects with north-bound morning train and makes a trip 
around Willapa Bay to South Bend, Wash. 

The Beaches. 5 

The expansive meadows which lie between the 
strand and the forests of the breezy county of 
Clatsop are traversed by several streams. Some 
are famous for their fish ; one, at least, is historic. 
On the banks of the Lewis and Clark River its 
namesakes set up their penates in the winter of 
1805, and waited restively for Spring to release 
the way home. Touring-car and roadster speed- 
ing from the south side of Young's Bay to Clatsop 
Beach, pass within sight of the place where they 
raised their cabins and stockade on the " first point 
of high land " on the western bank. 

Clatsop Plains were first described in print by 
that Captain John Meares who came down from 
Nodtka Sound, on .Vancouver Island, to find the 
great river-of-the-many-names reported by In- 
dians and Spaniards. Searching for the elusive 
channel, he glimpsed in July, 1788, the downs of 
Clatsop, and recorded in his book of travels the 
pleasure they afforded his rock-weary eyes. He 
noted that " the high land which bordered the bay 
stretched a great distance ; and a flat unbroken 
country occupied all the space between this land 

6 The S. P. and S. Railway (see "Portland to Astoria") 
continues from Astoria to Gearhart on Clatsop Beach (16 
m.) and Seaside (19 m.). The wagon-road follows the 
same route along the ocean. Beyond Seaside it curves be- 
hind Tillamook Head to Cannon Beach and goes on to 
Nehalem. Across the inlet from Nehalem, the Pacific Rail- 
way and Navigation Co. touches at Wheeler (92 m. from 
Portland) and turns down the coast to Garibaldi, Bay City 
and Tillamook Bay (115 m. from Portland). Motor-road, 
Nehalem - Tillamook Bay, 27 miles. Tillamook - Portland, 
via Dolph and McMinnville, 106 miles. 



COLUMBIA RIVER. EASTERN OREGON 125 

and the bay ..." named by him " Deceptive," 
because he thought it was not a river leading to 
the interior, as he had hoped it was. 

Forest, sea, farm, hill, dune and beach diversify 
the road to Gearhart. At this popular meeting- 
place one bathes in the surf or in the natatorium, 
goes trouting on the Necanicum, walks or drives 
on the sand boulevards, enters into the social en- 
terprises of the hotel and villa colony ; above all 
one golfs over excellent links that lie within call of 
the ocean. 

If the visitor is staying across the bridge at Sea- 
side, the days will be similarly occupied. Beach 
amusements include digging for clams with a nim- 
ble shovel. 

Cottagers from Oregon, Washington, Idaho, 
Montana, and states farther East, call the village 
of Seaside their summer home. 

A mile south of the little watering-place is the 
Seaside House, once the hospitable dwelling of Ben 
Holladay, a builder of railways. Near this point 
were discovered in 1900, and since preserved, the 
very cairns employed by members of the Lewis and 
Clark party in evaporating salt from sea water, 
for the use of the sojourners at Fort Clatsop. 
Opposite the Seaside House geologists have un- 
covered " acres of shell-heaps " imbedded with In- 
dian relics. 

The broad sweep of beach 20 miles south from 
the Columbia bar is interrupted by Tillamook 
Head, whose long sea-reaching snout is the north- 
ern outpost of the Coast Range. A trail from 
Holladay ascends to the crest of this rugged tor, 
which commands limitless views up and down the 
Oregon shore and out upon the ocean. A frag- 
ment of rock directly off the Head is the pedestal 



126 THE TOURIST'S NORTHWEST 

of " the loneliest and most perilous lighthouse on 
all our coast." Ships avoid it by ten miles. 

Be}^ond the out-flung promontory of Tillamook 
nestles Cannon Beach, reached only by wagon-road 
or trail. Still further on, the shore is broken by 
fantastic caves in the face of bare cliffs, and queer- 
shaped rocks disport themselves in the waves. 
The forests that extend far behind Neah-Kah-nie 
Mountain and Nehalem Bay resorts, and for a 
hundred miles south through Tillamook and 
neighbouring counties, are but half explored. Few 
but despoilers of the pines ever tread them. 

Portland - Seattle. By O.-W. R. and N. Co. and North- 
ern Pacific from Union Station, and Great Northern from 
North Bank Station; 183 miles in 6 to 7 hours, via Van- 
couver, Wash., Chehalis, Centralia and Tacoma. On Shasta 
Limited (Southern Pacific, San Francisco to Portland; O.- 
W. R. & N. Co., Portland to Seattle), no extra fare is 
charged between Portland and Puget Sound cities. Time, 
6 hours. Daily at 2:10 p.m. 

By Pacific Motor Highway, 190 miles. 

For Seattle description, see Chapter VII. 

Portland - Spokane. By Spokane, Portland and Seattle 
Railway from North Bank Station, 380 miles in 12 hours, 
via Vancouver, Wash., Fallbridge and Pasco. 

By O.-W. R. and N. Co. from Union Station, 378 miles in 
12 hours, via Umatilla, Wallula, Hooper Junction and 
Marengo. 

Portland - Ashland. By Southern Pacific Railway from 
Union Station, 342 miles. In 12 hours by Shasta Limited, 
leaving 3:50 p.m. daily; 15 hours by other express trains. 
Route: Portland - Salem (53 m.)- Albany (80 m.) - Eu- 
gene (124 m.) -Cottage Grove (144 m.)-Roseburg (198 
m.) -Grant's Pass (297 m.)-Medford (329 m.) - Ashland 
(342 m.). 

By Pacific Motor Highway, 370 miles. 

Portland -San Francisco. By above route to California 
border, thence via Ager, Weed, Shasta Springs, and Red 
Bluff. By Shasta Limited, 771 miles in 27 hours. Extra 
fare, Portland to San Francisco. By ordinary express 
trains, 35 hours. 

By Pacific Highway, 745 miles. 



CHAPTER VI 

THROUGH THE WILLAMETTE AND ROGUE RIVER 
VALLEYS TO CRATER LAKE, WITH EXCUR- 
SIONS INTO THE CASCADES, TO PACIFIC 
BEACHES, THE JOSEPHINE COUNTY 
CAVES, THE KLAMATH BASIN 
AND LAKE COUNTY 



Salem. 1 

A place of assembly for Oregon's first citizens, 
Salem is to-day the legislative seat of the State, 
the centre of various educational interests, and the 
rendezvous of agriculturists up and down the land. 

Methodist missionaries who began their labours 10 
miles north of Salem in 1834, under the leadership 
of the Reverend Jason Lee, re-established them- 
selves at this point further down the Willamette 
in the beginning of the following decade. Educa- 
tion received attention as early as 1842, when the 
Oregon Institute was ambitiously founded on Wal- 
lace Prairie, three miles below Salem, " to promote 
science, morality and piety." There were then 
about a hundred colonists inhabiting the valley. 

In 1851, Salem succeeded its rival, Oregon City, 
as territorial capital. Two years later the settle- 

i For route by Southern Pacific Railway, see preceding 
page " Portland - Ashland." 

The Oregon Electric Railway schedules several trains daily 
between Portland and points south. Time by morning 
"Limited" from North Bank Station to Salem, 1% hrs.; 
to Albany, 2% hrs.; to Eugene, 4 hrs. 

There is also a daily steamboat service on the Willamette, 
between Portland and Salem. 

127 



128 THE TOURIST'S NORTHWEST 

ment became the seat of Willamette University, 
one of the first institutions for higher learning on 
the Pacific Coast. Another date that Salem likes 
to remember is September 18, 1857, when a state 
constitution was framed and adopted by county 
delegates as a preliminary to Oregon's admission 
to the Union. 

The capital, having passed its threescore and 
tenth birthday, gives no impression of Western 
newness. However, though a veteran of North- 
western civilisation, its activities are numerous, its 
outer garb well-groomed, and its temper genial, if 
reserved. 

Visitors are directed first to the high-domed State 
House, — a pleasing term which reflects the town's 
New England ancestry. With the Supreme Court 
and Library building, the Post Office and County 
Court House, it occupies a rectangular park at the 
civic centre. In the neighbourhood are some of the 
community's twenty-five churches 2 and many of 
its homes, rose-bordered and surrounded by rare 
old trees. Institutions for the criminal and the 
physically unfortunate are numerous, and all are 
housed in handsome buildings. A large Govern- 
ment school for Indians is situated a little way 
beyond the northern limits of the city. 

It was from the State Penitentiary in Salem that 
Tracy the Outlaw escaped with another convict 
in 1902. Three guards were killed as a prelude 
to their flight, and farmers and posses were reck- 
lessly defied as they made their way north to the 
Washington border. In the latter state, Tracy 
continued his spectacular campaign for freedom, 
killing and wounding recklessly. Eight thousand 

2 The population of Salem is about 15,000. 



WILLAMETTE VALLEY TO THE SOUTH 129 

dollars' reward was offered for his capture, but 
though all the time cognisant of attempts to seize 
him, he scorned to cover his identity, relying upon 
his desperate reputation to scare off any one who 
might recognise him. After hiding a while in the 
Cascades, he gradually worked east, and on several 
occasions stayed openly on farms, demanding shel- 
ter and sustenance before proceeding on his way. 
At the end of two months' dodging and threaten- 
ing, always to good effect, the lone brigand found 
himself surrounded by a courageous band near a 
town in central Washington. And them he cheated 
of their prey by firing with his own hand the bullet 
that ended the chase. 

Salem is not only capital of Oregon and of 
Marion County, but capital also of the Willamette 
Valley fruit and hop lands. Eight counties hav- 
ing an area of over 12,000 square miles find shel- 
ter in the Willamette's basin between the Cascades 
and the Coast Range. In this beatific domain, 
flowers and strawberries are picked nearly every 
month of the twelve, sweet peas live through the 
winter and blossom again in May, a hundred 
cherries, some of them an inch in diameter, grow 
on a single twig, and pippins often weigh a quarter 
more than a pound. Farmers exchange tales of 
nine-pound carrots and parsnips five feet long, and 
exhibit at the Grange onions that grow four tons 
to a fifth of an acre. A Cottage Grove newspaper 
reported the experience of Mr. DeLong with some 
blackcap bushes. After all the berries reachable 
from the ground were picked, it was necessary to 
climb on a barrel to obtain sufficient elevation to 
unburden the upper branches. A gentleman liv- 
ing in the city casually garnered two tons of black- 
berries from a patch occupying the rear end of his 



130 THE TOURIST'S NORTHWEST 

house lot. Blackberries, says a wag, grow on the 
banks of the Willamette with hardly any provoca- 
tion at all. The same is true of huge sweet cher- 
ries and of the Italian prune, which here out- 
Italys Italy ; of loganberries which grow thousands 
of pounds to the acre, and of raspberries, and 
walnuts, and hops. And also of Angora goats, 
which give valuable mohair. The region of which 
Salem is the chief market-town grows so many 
hops that only ten per cent, of all that the United 
States yields is left for other states to grow. An 
acre of prime Willamette hop soil will produce up 
to 3000 pounds of the bitter greenish cones, whose 
price in the last twenty-five years has varied from 
15 cents to a dollar a pound. Twenty-nine mil- 
lion pounds a year — an average income of five and 
a quarter million dollars — ninety thousand people 
employed in the industry — these are further sta- 
tistical items in connection with this prolific enter- 
prise. 

At the Cherry Fair in July, strangers are free 
to gorge themselves with Royal Anns, if only they 
will in the after-years cite the Willamette product 
when offered the sour puny cherry of less favoured 
orchards. 

The loganberry is a new performer in the horti- 
cultural ring. Its forefathers were the raspberry, 
the wild mountain blackberry and the dewberry. 
Thirty years ago, we. are told, this delicious, tart, 
dark red hybrid was evolved by the skill of Judge 
Logan, a resident of Santa Cruz, California. 
Willamette Valley soil and climate were needed, 
however, to bring the berry into its own as a com- 
mercial crop. Within the last few years only has 
Judge Logan's berry been widely introduced as a 
preserve. Reduced to juice, it excels all other 




WALLOWA LAKE, EASTERN OREGON 



WILLAMETTE VALLEY TO THE SOUTH 131 

fruit juices. Salem alone bottles 400,000 gallons 
annually of the ruby beverage. 

As the products of the Willamette Valley are ex- 
pressed in terms of tons and millions, so must one 
employ superlatives in phrasing the abounding 
fairness of the river-banks, of the fat meadows and 
the bending orchards, and in attempting to trans- 
late the exalted beauty of the mountain phalanx, 
white-crested and forest-robed, that hems the val- 
ley on either side. 

Says a famous trapper, recording in 1825 his 
passage through the Willamette Valley, " A finer 
stream is not to be found. All things grow in 
abundance here. One could enjoy every comfort 
here with little labour. . . . No doubt in years a 
colony will be formed on the stream and I am of 
opinion it will flourish with little care." 

From Albany, sierra streams and woodlands are 
accessible by the Corvallis and Eastern Railroad 
which penetrates for more than 50 miles the fa- 
mously beautiful valley of the Santiam, and has its 
terminus at Hoover, within 20 miles of the snow 
mount called Jefferson (10,520 ft.). Detroit, 2 
miles west of Hoover, is a base for expeditions to 
lakes and waterfalls, and to hot springs and parks, 
where tents and camp grounds are provided. 

A motor-road east from Albany ascends the south 
fork of the Santiam, known for its fighting trout, 
as are all these mountain rivers, and passes on the 
way, Sodaville, Waterloo and Cascadia (40 m.), 
resorts reputed for their curative springs. A 
much-photographed view of Three Sisters is ob- 
tained from Clear Lake, a short way off the road, 
30 miles or more beyond Cascadia. This lake, the 
source of the McKenzie River, is also visited for 
the curious sight here presented of a submerged 



132 THE TOURIST'S NORTHWEST 

forest whose tree-tops stand in islets above the 
water. 

The Corvallis and Eastern Railroad also goes 
down to the sea, following the Willamette from 
Albany to Corvallis, seat of the Oregon Agricul- 
tural College, and crossing the Coast Range to 
Yaquina (84 m.) from which point connection 
with Newport is made by boat (3 m.) across the 
bay. 

At Newport, where are moderate-priced accom- 
modations of all sorts, varying from tent-house to 
typical beach hotel, one finds himself directly on 
the Pacific. Besides sundry amusements and 
numberless shore and water excursions, a trip 
much in favour with tourists is the walk or drive to 
Yaquina Head, a beak-like foreland three miles to 
the north from which, as at Point Loma, Cali- 
fornia, there is a superb land-view of the sea and 
an equally glorious sea-view of the land. 

Fifty miles to the south, Heceta Head, jutting 
from the coast of Lincoln County, calls to mind 
the voyages of Captain Cook, and the half-hearted 
explorations of the Spaniard, Captain Bruno 
Heceta, near-discoverer of the Columbia. An 
hour's sail down-shore is Siuslaw Harbor, linked 
by a new railway with Eugene, 60 miles to the 
east in the Willamette Valley. This road 
smoothes the path to a region heretofore without 
rail transportation. By water, the journey from 
Portland to Florence consumes about 30 hours. 
A stage runs from the harbour 50 miles south to 
Coos Bay, crossing the mouth of the Umpqua 
River en route. Coos Bay, largest natural har- 
bour between San Francisco and Astoria, has a 
dozen inlets which penetrate miles into the in- 



WILLAMETTE VALLEY TO THE SOUTH 133 

terior. Two steamship lines sailing from Port- 
land make regular calls at Marshfield ; one con- 
tinues to Eureka and San Francisco. When Coos 
Bay has rail as well as steamer connection with 
the world beyond this out-of-the-way nook, the 
inhabitants of Marshfield, North Bend, and towns 
on the short rail line which already serves the 
Coquille Valley, anticipate tourist patronage pre- 
viously withheld. Besides square miles of cas- 
caded forests, and calm valleys, and trout brooks, 
and streams navigable by launch, and river, bay, 
lake and ocean sports to invite the traveller, there 
is bear, deer, cougar, wild cat, duck, goose, grouse 
and pheasant hunting for the sportsman. Mil- 
lions of stately fir and spruce trees people the 
mountain-sides, whose tranquillity is disturbed 
only by the operations of the crews who feed the 
great mills of Coos County with giant fodder. 

From Marshfield a railway line is in operation 
southward into the Coquille Valley. At Coquille 
Station a road follows the river 25 miles to Ban- 
don on the coast, where the beach is broad enough 
for half the State to play on, and seals set sport- 
ive example by gamboling among sunny rocks. 
If we pursue the road from Bandon to Port Or- 
ford, in Curry County, we shall pass within 5 
miles of Cape Blanco, the furthermost point to- 
ward the west on the coast of the United States. 
Cape Mendocino, California, is by a fraction of a 
longitudinal degree less near to the sunset. Port 
Orford has an Agate Carnival in mid-summer on 
a near-by beach, which glitters with striped and 
clouded chalcedony. 

Curry County is a wilderness without a railway, 
if we except a five-mile road whose only passengers 
are the kings of the forest, dethroned, and des- 



134 THE TOURIST'S NORTHWEST 

tined to become shingles, matches or ruddy planks. 
" In the continuous woods," where, paraphrasing, 
the Rogue River rolls 

And hears no sound 
Save his own dashings, 

the fox, the bear and the cougar roam and deer 
abound beyond all counting. There are heights 
and narrow valleys whose woodland jungles no 
man has ever parted, and rivers whose track has 
never been explored. Two-thirds of the area is 
in National Forest, and only one two hundred 
and fiftieth of the country's acreage is under cul- 
tivation. 

The main highway continues for 150 miles from 
Port Orford, along the base of mountains whose 
crags press close to the shore, to Eureka, Califor- 
nia. 

Eugene. 

Eugene, south of Salem, is at a valley cross- 
way. Five rivers and forks of rivers mingle here 
for the enrichment of the little city at the head of 
Willamette navigation. It is also the centre of a 
labyrinth of rails which run hither and yon to 
bring it wealth and population. Trees grow so 
large in Lane County, of which Eugene is the seat, 
and fields yield so abundantly that a very well- 
to-do and pleasurable trade-centre is the result. 
Banks, clubs, commercial blocks, theatres, schools, 
churches, hotels and homes, all substantial and at- 
tractive, miles of paved streets and street rail- 
ways, 150 acres' worth of parks, a climate that 
invites a ten months' blooming of roses, and an 
outlook upon mountains of excelling height and 
fairness, compose a town of 12,000 population 



WILLAMETTE VALLEY TO THE SOUTH 135 

hard to surpass for its natural and acquired ad- 
vantages. 

The Willamette, perennial beautifier of gentle 
landscapes, laps the oak-shaded lawns and fra- 
grant gardens of Oregon University. For the 
founding of the State School in 1872, the national 
Congress gave Oregon two townships comprising 
46,000 acres, whose sale price, $100,000, created 
the first endowment fund. Besides lectures in clas- 
sical and normal courses, in medicine, law, archi- 
tecture, journalism, banking, library work and 
music, the University conducts classes in various 
subjects by correspondence, and commissions 
members of the faculty to lecture in towns 
throughout the State. A dozen buildings, spa- 
cious and dignified, make up the University group 
on the 80-acre campus. Eight hundred students 
are enrolled here, and twelve hundred at the 
schools of law and medicine in Portland. 

The visitor will be interested in the Condon col- 
lection of fossils unearthed in Central Oregon and 
now in the keeping of the University. 

Mr. George H. Himes, curator of the Museum 
of the Oregon Historical Society, is sponsor for 
the following facts concerning a hand-press now 
perserved by the University's Department of 
Journalism. The Society " after an exhaustive 
investigation of all the evidence " reports this to 
be " the first press ever used west of the Rocky 
Mountains. The press is of the model patented 
by Samuel Rust in 1829 and was built by R. Hoe 
& Company of New York City. It was first 
brought to Oregon in 1845, having been purchased 
early in that year by George Abernathy, the first 
provisional governor of Oregon and a business 
man of Oregon City. The first paper printed 



136 THE TOURIST'S NORTHWEST 

on the press in Oregon was the Spectator, pub- 
lished at Oregon City for the first time on Feb- 
ruary 5, 1846. 

" The press has a bed 25 x 38 inches. The 
Spectator consisted of four pages, each 11% x 
17% inches. The press was used in Oregon City 
more or less irregularly until 1863, when it was 
sold to H. R. Kincaid, who brought it to Eugene. 
On its way up the Willamette River it was ship- 
wrecked, and lay for some time under water. At 
Eugene it was used for forty-six years in the 
printing of the State Journal, After it became 
too much out of date for further use it was kept 
in storage by Mr. Kincaid until its presentation 
to the University. It is now used as an auxiliary 
proofing press in the print shop of the Depart- 
ment of Journalism. It is in about as good condi- 
tion as when it first came around the Horn. 

" The press that printed the first paper in Cali- 
fornia had a more stormy history. Its first issue, 
the Calif ornian, was printed on paper used by the 
Spaniards to wrap their cigaritos, dated August 
15, 1846, seven months later than the first issue of 
the Spectator at Oregon City. Later after many 
vicissitudes it was burned by the populace of Co- 
lumbia, California, to save it from the ignominy 
of a sheriff's sale. The press was a 6 Ramage,' 
so called after Adam Ramage, the chief press 
builder in the United States at that time. 

" A third hand-press that saw much service was 
another Ramage, No. 913. It was brought to 
San Francisco in 1846 by Samuel Brannan. This 
press has the distinction of having printed the 
first paper in San Francisco, the California Star, 
January 7 ? 1847, one year later than the first 



WILLAMETTE VALLEY TO THE SOUTH 137 

Spectator, It also printed the first in Portland, 
the Oregonian, December 14, 1850 ; the first north 
of the Columbia River, September 11, 1852; and 
the first in Seattle, early in December, 1866. It 
was used in Seattle until about 1886. It was 
then put into storage, where it remained until it 
was presented to the University of Washington, 
where it now stands in one of the upper rooms. 

w The press at the University of Oregon has a 
clear claim to the honour of having been the first 
one operated in the newspaper business on the 
Pacific Coast." 

The motorist who has come from the north or 
the south by Pacific Highway to Eugene, is ad- 
vised to turn eastward via Springfield (free au- 
tomobile camp-ground) for a run of 55 miles along 
the valley of the McKenzie, — a valley tuneful 
with leaping brooks and tumbling cataracts, and 
a-shine with glossy rocks and the not-far-away 
snow summits of Mt. Washington (8600 ft.) and 
Three Sisters (highest, 10,660 ft.). A steep 
mountain road continues 25 miles beyond McKen- 
zie Bridge, where there is a frequented inn, to 
McKenzie Pass (5000 ft.) and to Bend (66 m.) 
in Central Oregon. A camper's resort in the 
summer, a hunter's mecca in the fall, anglers come 
to the McKenzie Valley many months in the year 
to fill their baskets with the game Dolly Varden. 
In the forests are Douglas firs 300 feet tall and 
45 feet in girth, whose lowest limbs grow 200 feet 
from the ground. High above the river and the 
soaring trees tower the Virgin Graces of the Cas- 
cades — three spires of white poised in chaste 
and friendly grouping midway between the green 
and the brown plains of Oregon. 



138 THE TOURIST'S NORTHWEST 

As if old Egypt planted there 
And left proud pyramids to grow, 
Ten million tall and multiplied 
Until they pushed the stars aside. 

Joaquin Miller lived in the Willamette Valley 
near Eugene, and as a child laboured in the fields 
within sight of the mountains he later loved to 
glorify. Born Cincinnatus Heine Miller, he took 
the Christian name, when about thirty years old, 
of a California bandit, Joaquin Murietta, whose 
romance he had put into verse. His first books of 
poetry were printed in Portland. 

When the Southern Pacific completes the Eugene and Kla- 
math Falls Cut-off (about 175 m.), travellers to Crater Lake 
and the Klamath Country will go by a more direct route 
than is now possible by the main line through Southern 
Oregon into California. The branch under construction will 
cross the Cascades north of Diamond Peak and pass below 
Crater Lake on the east. From the junction of the rail- 
road with the motor-road, Klamath Falls -Fort Klamath, 
the distance to the Lake will be 40 miles, or half the dis- 
tance now travelled by motors over the usual route, Med- 
ford- Crater Lake. 

Eugene — Grant's Pass — Medf ord — Ashland. 

Twenty miles below Eugene at Cottage Grove, 
a name which well describes the verdant homelike- 
ness of the place, the railway begins to climb the 
north slope of the Calapooia Mountains. From 
the ridge, a new land blessed with fruits and grain 
comes into view — the domain of the Umpqua. 
Not a valley of heaths and braes, but a valley 
with an unusual topography, composed of sharp- 
pitched hills grooved by ravines and fertile lanes 
so narrow that they are practically never swept 
by winds. Roseburg, at the heart of the little 
walled kingdom, has according to official statistics 
the lowest wind velocity in the United States. 



WILLAMETTE VALLEY TO THE SOUTH 139 

The products of the valley are grapes, flowers, tur- 
keys, and other tender things which love the sun 
and thrive best in bland climates. 

The southern barrier of this Valley of Hills is 
pierced by rail and motorway through Cow Creek 
Canyon, which forms a winding stone corridor to 
the golden meadows watered by the river the 
French called Rouge. A hundred miles south of 
Roseburg, wheels pause at Grant's Pass for those 
to alight who are to make the side trip from here 
to the Josephine County Caves. 

This ambitious town of 5000 population, " the 
good roads hub of enthusiasm and motor centre 
of the country," has undertaken to build a railway 
southwestward to meet a line ascending from Cres- 
cent City, California (96 m.). The rails are al- 
ready laid for several miles paralleling the auto- 
stage route between Grant's Pass and the Califor- 
nia port. The new road will offer rail facilities 
for approaching near to the Caves, which lie in 
the southeastern corner of this southernmost 
county, among the Siskiyous. The present route 
is via highway to Wilderville, thence by road along 
the Applegate and Williams Valleys to a point 
which is 37 miles from Grant's Pass and 10 miles 
by Government trail from the Caves. On foot, 
the trail ascent is made in 3% hours. Pack and 
saddle-horses are for hire at the comfortable camp 
maintained for visitors, the charge for them being 
$2.50 a day. Terms for lodging and meals at 
the camp, $3 a day. Return fare from Grant's 
Pass to Williams (end of wagon-road) by mail 
motor-stage, leaving the post office at 7 a. m. 
every week-day, $3. The charge for special trips, 
when two or more are in the party, is the same, 
and the time consumed on the trip is less. It is 



140 THE TOURIST'S NORTHWEST 

advisable to spend at least one night at the camp, 
in order to do justice to the Caves. 

A rather longer and hillier road to the " Marble 
Halls " is the one running west from Medford 
(32 m. by rail from Grant's Pass), via Jackson- 
ville, Applegate and Provost. 

Mother Nature so cunningly secreted these jew- 
elled caverns within a casket of brusque high 
peaks that even the forest-roaming aboriginal 
knew nothing of their existence. Only the wild 
creatures had found them out. It was a bear 
pursued by a youthful hunter that betrayed the 
passage-way to alabaster lairs adorned like a 
Bakst Hall of Orgy, to amazing dens pendent with 
calcium gems, to haunts pillared in frost-work, 
plumed with filigree fronds, tapestried in crystal. 
This palace of the bears, this mosque, this gor- 
geous marble dagobah was discovered to man 
forty years ago. The road which leads to it 
mounts through the Illinois Valley; encompassing 
summits have an elevation above sea level of from 
4500 to 7000 feet, and there are tall forests, can- 
yons and raging rivers to add vigour to the scene. 
Beside the trail, too narrow for vehicles to go up, 
are groves and fishing-streams to tempt a longer 
stay, during which the Caves, now by act of Con- 
gress a national monument, can be visited and ap- 
preciated at leisure. A Government guide whose 
services are free, is on duty every week-day after- 
noon from June 15th to October 1st between two 
and five. 

The lower caves are entered at an altitude of 
4300 feet. A main passage and circuitous by- 
ways are followed through chambers of unique 
imagery, sculptured in limestone that nature has 
left in various complete and incomplete degrees 



WILLAMETTE VALLEY TO THE SOUTH 141 

of crystallisation. These chambers are in tiers 
to the depth of many hundred feet and extend for 
an indeterminate distance into the mountain. 
The succession of bowers, cells, pits, kiosks, gal- 
leries, vaults, shrines, crypts, cloisters, viaducts, 
petrified gardens and cascades, ascending and de- 
scending aisles, chasms through which waters 
course, ladders, stairways and fantastic salons, 
the guide will name, for guides delight to fashion 
titles, obvious and grotesque, for all the wonders 
of the earth. Thus, we invade the privacy of the 
Heavenly Boudoir, we ascend the Devil's Back- 
bone, marvel at the Beehive, peer into Adam's 
Tomb, lit with lime icicles that drip from the ceil- 
ing or have been deposited on the floor, saunter 
among the crystals of the Pillar Room, regard 
with awe an imaginary monarch on his throne, 
exclaim at marble presentments of monuments, 
famous falls and mountains, shudder at the 
shadows in the Ghost Chamber, and lose our- 
selves in Paradise Hall, hung with chiming glass- 
clear cones and concealed over a quarter of a mile 
below the surface of the mountain called Grey- 
back. One domed room with spreading columns 
was named Joaquin Miller's Chapel by the poet 
himself, during a visit paid by him five years be- 
fore his death. 

The extent of the Oregon Caves is yet to be de- 
termined. Each season, new rooms are broken 
through, new thoroughfares discovered. It is be- 
lieved that no similar phenomena of geological 
structure excel them in size. Certainly the caves 
of Yallingup and Jenolan present no forms more 
daring, more complicated and massive than the 
crankling, scabrous, glassy, toothed and twilled, 
graved, moulded, panelled, festooned and tasselled 



142 THE TOURIST'S NORTHWEST 

phantasies which justify any inconvenience or ex- 
ertion necessary to reach this recessed and chan- 
nelled eyrie of the Siskiyous. 

The Valley of the Rogue is mellow with harvests 
and sunlight, and undisturbed by blasts or any 
poverty. This halcyonic sentence describes the 
water-shed about Grant's Pass and Medford. 
East and west of the open basin in which the two 
towns are situated the river is the close friend of 
crags and shaggy hills that give southern Oregon 
some of its wildest scenery. The French called 
it red (Rouge) because of a pigment found in its 
bed; settlers and miners who were robbed and 
slaughtered by Indians called it the Rogue, because 
its waters ran red with blood, and treachery lurked 
on its banks. To the left of the railway going 
down to Medford is Table Rock, where in the year 
1853 General Lane fought a disastrous battle with 
the natives. In 1856 the enemy tribes of the Val- 
ley were removed to reservations. Now orchards 
file across the plain where the Indians used to pitch 
their smoke-stained tepees, and crops of prize- 
winning Newtowns and Bartlett pears are garnered 
where once was a desolated field of carnage. 

Medford is prosperous to the bursting-point. 
Her banks overflow with profits from fruit, lum- 
ber, alfalfa and mines, civic improvements are lav j 
ishly made, there is a golf and country club whose 
grounds extend over a hundred acres, the beauti- 
ful homes of gentlemen orchardists line her paved 
streets. Most important of all to the stranger, 
there is a modern hostelry which cost $125,000 
to build. Medford's tourist traffic is yet embry- 
onic, though increasing thousands alight every 
year at her gates. It is conceivable that within a 



WILLAMETTE VALLEY TO THE SOUTH 143 

brief span of summers, travellers to the number 
of several times the town's rapidly growing popu- 
lation will pause here en route to the Marble 
Caves, Ashland and Crater Lake. 

Those who go into Josephine County from Med- 
ford pass through one of the oldest settlements 
in the State. Jacksonville, 5% miles west by 
branch line, was born with a gold spoon in its 
mouth the year that Oregon became a territory. 
It was the stage then of frenzied mining scenes, 
and since that time quartz and placer operations 
have never ceased to be carried on in the neigh- 
bourhood. The value of the total gold harvest 
of Southern Oregon since 1851 is estimated at 
$150,000,000. Place-names in this vicinity recall 
graphic communities in California — Jump-off- 
Joe Creek, Whisky, John Mule, Pistol River. . . . 

Allied with Medford as a touring base for the 
Caves, Crater Lake and the Klamath Basin, Ash- 
land, half an hour's run south by railroad or Pa- 
cific Highway, asks the traveller's attention to 
its claims as a mountain hydropathic resort. 
Spread on an upland, it surveys the spacious val- 
ley of the Rogue River and curving ranges of 
tree-covered heights which have their climax in 
imposing snowcaps. The dominating peak of the 
vista is Mt. Ashland (7662 ft.), a chieftain of 
the Siskiyou clan. An automobile road is in- 
vading the forests of this wide-viewing mountain ; 
situated at the State border, it welcomes and 
speeds travellers to and from the Northwest. 

Ashland was settled a long while ago. It has 
old-fashioned homes as well as concrete blocks and 
bungalows, and a solid, satisfied air. The cause 
of greatest satisfaction is the galaxy of mineral 
springs possessed by the municipality — springs 



144 THE TOURIST'S NORTHWEST 

hot, springs cold, springs of soda, lithia and sul- 
phur, springs carbonated and chloro-carbonated. 
Ashland foresees itself the American Carlsbad, and 
to the end that the ailing, the tourist and the 
pleasure-seeker shall come here in Carlsbadian 
proportions and go away healed and amused, as 
from the Austrian spa, Ashland has reserved many 
acres for parks, has instituted a summer Chau- 
tauqua and free automobile camp grounds (which 
Carlsbad distinctly has not), has built fountains, 
swimming-pools and gas, mud and vapour bath- 
houses, and tea, dance and music pavilions. 
Scientifically equipped sanitaria and a large hotel 
are promised for the future. 

Of the twelve springs in America highest in lithia 
contents, Ashland has two whose analysis exceeds 
that of the Hathorn and Congress waters of Sara- 
toga, and a third which ranks well up in the list. 
The lithia and soda springs are carbonated by na- 
ture and are therefore agreeable to the palate. 

Though situated nearly 2000 feet above sea 
level, Ashland's summer days are unqualifiedly hot. 
June and October are the pleasantest months of 
the tourist season. A table of August, 1915, tem- 
peratures, naively circulated by the local Com- 
mercial Club, records six dates on which the maxi- 
mum degree indicated by the thermometer was 96 
and over, eight on which the mercury registered 
90° to 95°, fourteen when the maximum attained 
was not less than 85°, and five whose highest point 
was 80° to 84°. Which accounts for the thirty- 
one days of the month. This day-time torridity 
is not peculiar to the little city on the knees 
of the Siskiyous. All the towns of these walled 
mountain valleys in Oregon have excessive sum- 
mer temperatures and no rain to speak of in mid- 




"THE CHAPEL," JOSEPHINE COUNTY CAVES, OREGON 

Named by Joaquin Miller 



WILLAMETTE VALLEY TO THE SOUTH 145 

summer. At night a cool wind stirs, so that rest- 
ful sleep usually solaces the heat-weary. 

South of Ashland, the Southern Pacific road to Sacra- 
mento and San Francisco follows a devious route over, 
around and through the Siskiyous, across gorges by perilous 
spans and along well-braced ledges. Streams gurgle and 
leap, the air comes sweet from the dark oratory of the 
forest, the climb exhilarates and appals. The summit of 
the road is 15 miles from Ashland. When we look down 
and back, the valley we have soared above lies like a rich 
garden aglow in the sun. Down the other side of the bar- 
rier which separates the two states the train glides like a 
creature unleashed into the Shasta-land of northern Cali- 
fornia. 

Routes to Crater Lake National Park. 

Superior road conditions induce many tourists to go to the 
Park via Medford. During the tourist season, July, August 
and September, auto stage leaves Monday, Wednesday and 
Friday in the morning, and arrives at the Crater Lake camp 
or hotel seven or eight hours later. Stage leaves Crater 
Lake Lodge Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday for Med- 
ford. Single fare, $9; return, $16.50. The outbound trip 
from the Lake can be made by stage (Monday, Wednes- 
day and Saturday; fares, $3.50 single, $6 return) to Kirk (26 
m.), from which station there is rail connection three times 
a week with Klamath Falls. Daily trains make the run 
of 86 miles from the Falls to Weed, California, on the 
Southern Pacific main line. Passengers coming north from 
California frequently elect to go in from Weed by rail to 
Klamath Falls, thence by rail to Kirk (or lake steamer, 
Klamath Falls - Agency Landing and from there road and 
rail to Kirk), thence by road to Crater Lake, and return to 
the mail railway line at Medford. Stage, Kirk -Crater 
Lake, Monday, Wednesday and Saturday. Fare, Kirk - 
Crater Lake - Medford, $11.50. Travellers by this southern 
route are reminded that trains operate on the Kirk - 
Klamath Falls branch Monday, Wednesday and Friday af- 
ternoons only. Therefore, arrivals at the Lake from Med- 
ford must arrange for a two-day (Monday- Wednesday; 
Wednesday - Friday) or three-day stay (Friday -Monday) 
in the Park. Either arriving at or departing from Weed a 
delay is entailed before connections can be made with 
trains of the main line, and going either way, a night must 
be spent at Klamath Falls. 

The Southern Pacific gives stop-overs and makes inclusive 
rail and stage rates from specific points to Crater Lake. 



146 THE TOURIST'S NORTHWEST 

Only hand baggage weighing 25 pounds or less is carried 
free on each whole-fare ticket Medford - Crater Lake -Kla- 
math Falls, or inversely. Trunks must be checked to pas- 
senger's point of departure, or point at which journey by 
rail is to be resumed (Medford, Ashland, Weed or Kla- 
math Falls). 

From Ashland (13 m. south of Medford), motorists un- 
afraid of rough and mountainous conditions take the Dead 
Indian Road east to Klamath Lake, and proceed via Peli- 
can Bay and Fort Klamath to Crater Lake (85 m.). A 
circular tour of 225 miles from and back to Medford is 
completed by way of Crater Lake to Fort Klamath, along 
the west shore of Klamath Lake to Klamath Falls, and 
thence to Ashland. On this trip, the road, Pelican Bay- 
Klamath Falls - Ashland (125 m.) is substituted for the 
Dead Indian cut-off, Pelican Bay -Ashland (50 m.). 

Finally: the shortest, smoothest, prettiest, least complex 
and dusty way to Crater Lake is by motor from Medford 
through the Valley of the Rogue. The only advantage of- 
fered by the route north from Weed is that the distance 
necessary to be travelled by motor is less (26 m. Kirk- 
Crater Lake). 

With the completion of the Southern Pacific line from 
Klamath Falls to Willamette Valley points, and the O.-W. 
R. & N. and Oregon Trunk extensions from Bend (Med- 
ford - Butte Falls, 35 miles, already constructed by the 
Hill line), three through railways will approach within a 
short distance of the east gate of Crater Lake Park. A 
lateral of the Oregon Short Line (Union Pacific System, 
Salt Lake - Pendleton and Umatilla) will eventually build 
across the State to tap the Klamath Falls cut-off. This will 
some day afford another rail route to Crater Lake. 

The motor-road from Medford is in itself a rea- 
son for turning aside from the rail highway to 
visit the lake in a crater's basin. Those inclined 
to leisurely travel and not confined to stage sched- 
ules may spend profitable days camping, fishing 
and tramping among pines and wilderness streams. 
Mill Creek Falls hurtle down a boulder terrace a 
quarter-mile off the road to Prospect (47 m.). 
The California - Oregon Power Plant, which prof- 
its by a river-fall of several thousand feet, may be 
visited. A little way beyond the inn at Prospect, 
where stage passengers stop for luncheon, and also 



WILLAMETTE VALLEY TO THE SOUTH 147 

off the main road, is the lava arch beneath which 
the Rogue rushes for a hundred yards. About 
60 miles toward the Lake, the river canyon, con- 
fined and rocky, lures us again from the high- 
way. A steady ascent of 7 miles from Silver 
Camp (62 m.), and we are at the west entrance of 
the park. At Mile 75.7 is the office of the Park 
Superintendent, who dispenses licenses for auto- 
mobiles and motor cycles to enter the Reserve. 3 
Camp Arant is close by the Superintendent's quar- 
ters, the post office, store and stables. 4 A road 
which twists sharply up the mountain brings us 
in 5 miles to the Lodge on the brink of the crater. 

Crater Lake and the National Park. 

Few make the pilgrimage thither with a defined 
notion of what they are to see. And looking for 
the first time on this amazing sapphire tarn sunk 
within a mountain-top, few are impressed as they 
have been told they ought to be. If Crater Lake 
does not instantly smite us with its transcendent 
strangeness and sublimity, astound us by its dis- 
play of primal agencies, it is because we adjust 
our minds slowly to grasp supreme demonstra- 

3 Fee for permit to go once around the Park, $1; annual fee, 
$5. Roads leading to and from the Lake may be used from 
6:30 to 10:30 a.m., and from 3:30 to 6:30 p.m. Motor 
vehicles must stop at the approach of horse teams, and 
take position on the outer edge of the road. 

4 The Government controls the rates for lodging, meals, 
horse and boat hire within the Park. Lodging and board 
at Camp and Hotel, $3.25 day. Lodging, $1 day per per- 
son. Lodging and board per week, $17.50. Unfurnished 
tents, $1 a day; tents furnished except for cooking utensils, 
$1 day per each occupant. Saddle and pack horses, 50c an 
hour each, or $5 per day. Launches and rowboats are for 
hire by the hour, trip or day. 

Camping permits are issued by the Superintendent, and 
provisions, gasoline and horse feed are sold at the store. 



148 THE TOURIST'S NORTHWEST 

tions of the Infinite. Many forces combine to 
make this spectacle unique among all the concepts 
of the Great Scene-painter. A visit to the de- 
molished dome, on whose broken rim we stand 8000 
feet in the air, explains elemental geology, makes 
clear phases of the earth's manufacture, and ac- 
quaints us with glacial and volcanic operations — 
the grinding of crags, the hollowing of water-beds, 
the filling-up of valleys, the obliteration of rivers, 
the beheading of mountains. In this primitive 
laboratory are exhibited glacial drifts and 
notches, fields of pumice and basalt, fired cliffs 
and pinnacles, flinty streams, layers of cooled 
rock, conglomerate debris, ice-grooved ridges, an 
island peak having an exposed crater, and a crater 
whose collapse made an undated lava floor for a 
vast blue pool of water, accumulated for cycles 
of years from earth and sky. 

Once, this oval chalice which now holds a lake 
five and a half miles in diameter and two thousand 
feet deep, had a conical cap as high again as are 
the loftiest cliffs of the rim above sea level. At 
some long-ago period of the earth's moulding, 
perhaps even before Shasta and its sisters of the 
Cascades were evolved by flood and flame, the 
cauldron of a mountain that topped them all in 
height and energy was bedded with creative fires. 

The elements furiously fed upon the flames and 
mounted till walls could not contain them, they 
boiled through fissures down the outer side of the 
cone, and volcanic glass and steam were exploded 
from the crest. The crucible of the mountain 
seethed hot with fluid rock. The country all 
about smoked in ruin. ... At last the fiery 
tumult subsided, the interior contracted as it 
slowly cooled, and the unsupported summit, whose 



WILLAMETTE VALLEY TO THE SOUTH 149 

bulk geologists estimate as seventeen cubic miles, 
collapsed into the furnace and sank down through 
the caverns of the earth. 

This is the explanation accepted by most investi- 
gators. The theory that the head blew off in a 
single devastating cataclysm is given less credence. 

The maximum depth of the crater from brim to 
bottom is 4000 feet. The pool — it is more like 
a deep and glassy pool than one's ordinary con- 
ception of a lake — is girdled by banks that rise 
from 500 to 2000 feet out of the water in sheer 
steeps of talus and striated rock. Glacier Peak, 
on the west side, has an altitude above sea level of 
8156 feet, and seven other ridges approximate this 
height. Kerr Notch, on the south wall, is 6700 
feet above the sea. 5 Between these dismantled 
spurs of the once mighty summit is Victor Rock. 
Here an attractive stone lodge has been erected 
for the housing of visitors. 

The Rock is the platform from which people 
of many races and countries have gained their first 
view of the placid sheet below, its singular islands, 
its circular wall and the distant mountains which 
peer down upon it. The Indians believed these 
shores inhabited by the Great Spirit. None but 
the conjurer of a tribe ever approached the Lake, 
and only he after rites had been performed to se- 
cure the good will of the Llaos children of the 
Spirit, who were always near. Like a sleepless 
eye, blue, unfaltering and omniscient, the lake lay 
watching through the centuries. Superstitious 

5 The Geological Survey, Washington, D. C, will mail a 
topographic map of the Park upon receipt of 10 cents. 
Excellent sketch maps are contained in a pamphlet, Geo- 
logical History of Crater Lake, by J. S. Diller, which may 
also be had for 10 cents by addressing the Superintendent 
of Documents, Government Printing Office, Washington. 



150 THE TOURIST'S NORTHWEST 

pioneers who fell under its glance named it " Bot- 
tomless Spook Lake." Men to this day shudder, 
weep, turn from their fellows discomfited by the 
baffling look of the " Sea of Silence," the " Deep 
Blue Lake," the " Lake of Mystery." 

The two last names were bestowed by a party of 
prospectors who in 1853 passed this way in search 
of a lost claim. Because they were the first white 
men to stand on this ragged brink, they are called 
the discoverers of the crater. W. G. Steel, whose 
knowledge of all this region is encyclopoedic, began 
in 1885 a campaign for the preservation of the 
Lake country at a National Park. The efforts of 
nearly twenty years were rewarded in 1902 when 
the necessary laws were enacted to give Crater 
Lake to the people of the United States. The 
Mazama Club of Oregon mountaineers camped 
here in 1896, and presumptuously affixed the 
nimble title of their organisation to the seared and 
world-old Cyclops whose decapitation brought 
about the creation of the Lake. Their christening 
has been officially approved. The Headless Giant 
of the Cascades is therefore designated on all pres- 
ent-day maps as the Mount of the Jumping Goat. 

The sides of the crater are broken with precipi- 
tous gullies marked by slanting trees. The trail 
on the cliff below the Lodge is the only one pos- 
sible to be descended without danger; to climb up 
it leaves one breathless at the end of a strenuous 
fifty minutes. Though the altitude of the lake 
repels familiarity it draws you like a magnet and 
when you have looked on it awhile, you wish to 
touch it and move upon it. Like a sea of azurite 
it flows limpid from the shore. Its great depth 
of colour and sounding seems to give it weight, 
and you are surprised that the prow of your row-* 



WILLAMETTE VALLEY TO THE SOUTH 151 

boat or launch cleaves it lightly as other water is 
cleft. If the boat is directed toward the north 
from Victor Rock, Wizard Island will soon ob- 
struct the course. This wooded, flat-topped cin- 
der cone thrust 763 feet above the surface from 
the submerged mass below is an example of a 
crater within a crater. Mr. Diller, of the United 
States Geological Survey, says it is " a perfect 
little volcano . . . surmounted by a crater 80 feet 
deep ... an entirely new volcano built up by 
volcanic action upon the bottom of the caldera 
since the subsidence. Were it not for the lake the 
whole bottom of the caldera could be examined, 
and it is possible that other small volcanic cones 
might be found. This suggestion is borne out by 
the soundings of the lake, which appear to reveal 
two other cases, but they do not rise to within 400 
feet of the surface of the water. It is evident 
that the volcanic eruptions upon the bottom of the 
caldera have partially filled it up. Originally it 
may have been much more than 4000 feet deep." 

From the channel west of the island's beach you 
look up nearly 2000 feet to the sloped ridge of 
the Watchman and Glacier Peak. The water is 
called shallow at a hundred feet. Bright objects 
lying that far down on the bottom are clearly seen, 
and the fish introduced here for the angler can 
be descried to the very colour of their spots. The 
inner walls of the west and north side of the 
crater are of especially interesting construction. 
On the face of Llao Rock " the outline of the val- 
ley in cross section is evident. It rests upon pum- 
ice and many layers of older lavas, forming the 
rim down to the water's edge." Each cliff of the 
notched inclosure has its individual origin and 
conformation; and is an illuminating text-book 



152 THE TOURIST'S NORTHWEST 

to students of geology. The reflection of the 
varied contours is so distinct on and apparently 
beneath the water that you have the sensation of 
imminent collision, as oars or engine drive forward 
the boat. 

Beyond the Palisades is the shelving slope of 
the Wineglass, above Grotto Cove. Eastward 
from Cloudcap Bay are Mt. Cloudcap (8070 
ft.) and Scott Peak (8938 ft.) which are in- 
cluded within the 160,000-acre tract of the Gov- 
ernment Park. The small springs which occur 
along the southeast wall indicate that larger 
streams entering below the water may be a source 
of the lake's supply. Though never brackish or 
cloudy, and excellent to drink, the water has no 
visible ingress or exit. The boat-ride in a moun- 
tain is concluded when the needle spars of the 
Phantom Ship are passed and the landing made in 
Eagle Cove. The pinnacled isle moored in the 
curve of Dutton Cliff wears its ghostly name be- 
cause in the morning shadows its shape is lost 
against the background of the bluff. The Lake's 
adornments, its eerie tints of turquoise and zaffer, 
its vari-coloured embankment, its origin, its sur- 
roundings seem all preternatural, and though you 
stay for days on its borders, driving or walking by 
the 20-mile road around the margin of the crater, 
riding to distant canyons and falls, camping in 
near-by glades, climbing to other summits in the 
Park, its spiritual influence is always with you. 

Accessible from various parts of the Reserve by 
road and horse trail, Scott Peak is ascended for 
the prospect from its slopes of valleys and moun- 
tains, from the Willamette to Shasta. Visible im- 
mediately below, deep in its pit, is the wondrous 
Orb of Colour in the rigid brow of Vulcan. 



WILLAMETTE VALLEY TO THE SOUTH 153 

Crater Lake — Klamath Falls. 

One motor-route to the south turns away from 
the Medford road at Camp Arant, near the west- 
ern entrance of the Park, and follows all the way 
to Fort Klamath the canyon of Anna Creek, one 
of the chief-works to be seen in the Government en- 
closure. The walls, balustraded in regular pal- 
ings, are most lucid examples of the power of 
water to chisel stone. 

At Fort Klamath (21 m.), in the Wood River 
Valley, several roads converge. One which makes 
a V with the highway from Crater Lake goes due 
north toward Bend (100 m. ; Klamath Lake - 
Bend, 150 m. ; daily stage, $11.50). A new road 
leading from the east gate of the Park along Sandy 
Creek crosses the highroad to Bend and descends 
to Kirk, present terminus of the Klamath Falls 
rail extension. Stage connections to Kirk have 
already been given under " Routes to Crater 
Lake." 

From Fort Klamath, two roads go to the town of 
Klamath Falls: one (38 m.) runs south via the 
Indian Agency along the east side of Klamath 
Lake; the other (58 m.) follows the west side, via 
Pelican Bay. The latter is the best for scenery 
and hotels. The former is interesting for its 
reminiscence of hostile conflicts with the Modocs, 
whose chiefs were executed by the avenging hand 
of justice at Fort Klamath in 1873, following two 
years of depredation and massacre. Part of the 
battle-ground of the Modocs and the Whites is 
incorporated in the Reservation east of the lake, 
which has an area equal to that of the State of 
Delaware. Two famous trout streams, the 
Sprague and the Williamson Rivers, traverse the 



154 THE TOURIST'S NORTHWEST 

Reservation. The Klamaths who till the desert- 
and marsh-reclaimed acres are peaceful and com- 
mon-place, like all Pacific Coast tribes of our 
generation. 

Pelican Bay, 23 miles south from Fort Klamath 
by road, is also reached by steamer across Kla- 
math Lake from the east side motor-road, and 
from the Harriman Lodge Station on the railway, 
Kirk — Klamath Falls. The narrowest arm of this 
plateau lake of large area and wonderfully clear 
water, is the traditional habitation of legions of 
the white, web-footed birds whose distinguishing 
mark is a distensible pouch beneath an enormous 
horned beak, into which fish are drawn whole and 
gulped greedily. Also, there are black cormo- 
rants in great number, which, though smaller, 
are even more gluttonous than the pelican. In the 
summer, herons stand on the lake-bank, one-legged 
and pensive. On the edge of the bay, Mr. E. H. 
Harriman chose a site for a summer home, for 
which outlook and wilderness background were the 
chief considerations. Since 1912, the property 
has been at the disposal of travellers, through 
the enterprise of the Klamath Development Com- 
pany. Guests are diverted by big game and 
water-fowl hunting, by extremely good fishing in 
dozens of trout-habited streams, by pleasures per- 
taining to the lake, 10 miles wide at this point, and 
by joys of forest and mountain. Rainbow and 
Dolly Varden trout, weighing from 2 to 25 pounds, 
are baited by fly and spoon. Pyramidal Mt. Pitt 
(9750 ft.) stands guard above the Lodge and its 
cabins, before whose doors its angled shadow is 
cast upon the surface of the lake. 

Klamath County is composed of several extinct 
lake beds; some are densely forested and belted 



WILLAMETTE VALLEY TO THE SOUTH 155 

by mountains, others are open sun-beaten mesas 
of volcanic soil, 4000 to 4700 feet in altitude, and 
capable of exceedingly profitable farming when ir- 
rigated. Marshes, one-time lakes incompletely 
drained, and several broad bodies of fresh water, 
cover other areas. Twenty billion feet of white 
and yellow pine are standing in this rich and 
oddly configured portion of southern Oregon. 

Inspiring views of the Cascades, and glimpses 
of lakes and rivers frequented by hunters, beguile 
the 30-mile journey from Harriman Lodge to 
Klamath Falls, on the Link River, at the foot of 
Klamath Lake. The town's growing prosperity is 
ascribed to its position at the heart of immense 
timber tracts and vast acres of irrigated lands in 
the Klamath Basin. Aside from road, railway 
and steamer routes north toward Crater Lake, 
several rail lines are built or are building into 
Klamath Falls from Oregon and California. By 
the Weed -Klamath Falls - Eugene cut-off, the 
running time of trains between San Francisco and 
northern coast cities will be reduced several hours, 
owing to the avoidance of the grades through the 
Siskiyous, via Ashland. Another rail route to 
the Klamath Basin and Crater Lake which will 
benefit the tourist is the Modoc Northern, building 
from the Ogden Route of the Southern Pacific. 
The continental line is tapped at a point east of 
Reno, Nevada. Klamath Falls and Bend are to 
be joined by the Oregon, California and Eastern 
Railway. 

The visitor who stays over-night at Klamath 
Falls or makes it the centre for sundry instructive 
excursions among alfalfa fields and logging camps, 
will find himself luxuriously served at the White 
Pelican Hotel, The proprietors, who are also re- 



156 THE TOURIST'S NORTHWEST 

sponsible for the delights of Harriman Lodge, ex- 
pended $340,000 in 1911 on the building, its fur- 
nishings and the mineral baths provided for 
guests. 

If the days are hot, a cool goal may be reached, 
but over a blazing road, by going 20 miles south- 
east to Merrill, and thence through the lava coun- 
try to vaults in the earth that are walled and 
floored with pure ice, which never melts. West 
of Merrill is Lower Klamath Lake, east is Tule 
Lake, The land hereabouts is springing with 
prosperous crops as a result of elaborate irri^ 
gation affecting many thousands of acres. 

The motor-road through Merrill continues into 
northeastern California. From Klamath Falls 
motor-road and railroad go southwest 40 miles to 
Klamath Hot Springs, a popular vacation resort 
below the Oregon border, reached from the main 
Southern Pacific line, via Ager, California. 

The highway from Ashland to Klamath Falls 
continues 100 miles east to Lakeview, seat of Lake 
County, and from here into northeastern Cali- 
fornia. Lakeview at the head of Goose Lake is 
the Oregon terminus of the Nevada, California and 
Oregon which joins the Southern Pacific Ogden 
Route in Nevada and the Western Pacific in Cali- 
fornia. North from Lakeview to Bend, the new 
Oregon, California and Eastern Railroad is 
promised for the future. 

Stage-roads branch northwest from Lakeview, 
via Summer Lake, Silver Lake (93 m.), Fort Rock 
and Fremont, to La Pine, Bend (180 miles ; auto 
stage daily ; fare $25) on the Deschutes River, and 
to Prineville, 6 on the Crook River. A road goes 

6 Bend - Redmond - Prineville - Madras - Shaniko - The 




Fred II. Kiser, Portland, Ore. 
DUTTON CLIFF, CRATER LAKE. CRATER LAKE 
NATIONAL PARK 



WILLAMETTE VALLEY TO THE SOUTH 157 

northeast via the Warner Lakes and " P " Ranch 
(dangerous 35 per cent, grade) to Harney Lake 
(O.-W. R. line under construction, from Arden 
to Ontario, on main line north from Idaho), Mal- 
heur Lake, Burns and Vale (on main O.-W. R. 
line and motor-road to Pendleton). The so- 
called Oregon Central Military Road (Ashland - 
Klamath Falls - Ely — Lakeview - Idaho border) 
crosses the Steins Mountains and the Owyhee 
River on the way to Boise City, Idaho. 

Says a State publication, " Lake County is a re- 
gion of scenic curiosities ; gigantic rims rise thou- 
sands of feet above the level plains and are im- 
pressive, but doubly so is the view from the tops 
of the rims, looking straight down on the blue 
lakes, the hay fields and the vast soda deposits. 
From above, the latter look like a veritable in- 
ferno, the yellow incrustations being in sharp con- 
trast with the gleaming white of exposed soda de- 
posits and the intense blue of the lakes. Lieuten- 
ant John C. Fremont, in December, 1843, entered 
what is now Lake County from the west, gradu- 
ally ascending a high timbered plateau amid deep 
snows and howling winter winds. At an altitude 
of 7000 feet the prospect suddenly opened, and 
he and his small party reached the rim from which 
a scene of marvellous beauty was unfolded; the 
rim he named Winter Ridge and the blue lake 
directly below him he called Summer Lake, because 
of the green verture along its western bank close 
to the rim. Descending 3000 feet to the lake he 
found warm springs, green grasses and trees and 
a mild temperature in December. Near where he 

Dalles, via the Central Oregon Highway, 172 miles. Bend - 
The Dalles by rail, 156 miles. See "Excursion into Central 
Oregon," Chapter V. 



158 THE TOURIST'S NORTHWEST 

descended and flowing from under the great rim 
are the Anna River springs — a cluster of springs 
— the largest of which flows from an aperture 
nearly £00 feet across, being the largest spring 
in the State of Oregon and one of the largest in 
the world. This spring water feels warm to the 
touch and forms the Anna River which winds 
through the plains at the north end of Summer 
Lake and enters the lake. Fossilised remains of 
the three-toed horse, the mammoth mastodon and 
other numerous remains of the early geological 
periods are found in the vast plains that once 
were lake beds. Also remains of the ancient In- 
dian civilisation. In the heavy forests of the 
mountain ranges are found bear, deer, cougar and 
wildcat; also excellent fishing streams. Hun- 
dreds of hunters go from California and Nevada 
every year to Lake County for big game and fine 
fishing. In Warner Lake, Goose Lake and a few 
other lakes are found pelican, swan and other rare 
fowl. Goose and duck hunting is splendid in the 
marshes. Steamboats and launches ply Goose 
Lake, altitude 4700 feet, said to be the highest 
navigated lake in the United States. Before the 
advent of the railroad considerable freight was 
carried in the steamboats on Goose Lake. There 
are many resorts along its banks. The buttes in 
the open country in the north of the county are, 
many of them, exceedingly rough and picturesque, 
their rock formations being fantastic and massive. 
One of the best known landmarks is an ancient 
crater, several hundred feet above the level plains, 
called Fort Rock; the steep walls of the crater 
are so nearly perfect as to give this giant emi- 
nence the aspect and character of a great forti- 
fication. The homesteaders who settled near this 



WILLAMETTE VALLEY TO THE SOUTH 159 

crater named their town after Fort Rock. Two 
buttes in the northeastern part of the county are 
called Glass Buttes, as the molten volcanic rock 
of which they are composed has the brittle and 
semi-transparent character of jet black glass." 



CHAPTER VII 

SEATTLE AND ITS ENVIRONS 

THE OLYMPIC PENINSULA 

ROUTES ACROSS THE CASCADES TO THE 

COLUMBIA BASIN 

Seattle — Snoqualmie Falls and Index. Seattle — Bremerton — 

Hood Canal — Port Townsend — Port Angeles — 

Lake Crescent — Sol Due — Neah Bay. 

Seattle— Ellensburg— Wenatchee and North Yakima en 
route to Spokane. 



Seattle. 1 

Poseidon, Greek god of the sea, took to wife Am- 
phitrite from among other fair nymphs, endowed 
with fishes' tails. Chosen bride of the North Pa- 
cific, Seattle has domain over the lesser Nereids 
of the inland Puget Sea. 

A thousand waterways contribute to her king- 
dom. Gulfs, bays, streams, friths and fjords all 
serve as courses for the doughty craft, big and 
small, that attend her varying needs. Her perch 
is the ridge between the Sound and Lake Wash- 
ington whose prospect to the west is the jagged 
Olympics, to the east, the Cascade Range, to 
the north, the Sound crowned by Mt. Baker, to 
the south, Mt. Rainier. A river and three lakes, 
besides a newly dredged canal, are enclosed within 

i For rail connection from Portland, see end of Chapter V. 
For steamers and other trunk lines, see under " Transpor- 
tation," Chapter I. Also fine print, Seattle - Tacoma, Seat- 
tle - Everett, Seattle - Spokane, at end of this chapter. 

1G0 



SEATTLE, OLYMPICS, EASTERN" ROUTES 161 

her civic bounds. The site, too steep in places, 
has been hydraulicked to lower levels, and the 
surplus earth applied where it serves to give foot- 
hold for docks and mills along the water-front. 
The main body of the town is roughly shaped like 
a crescent and is flanked by two wings. From the 
north wing it is separated by Salmon Bay, the 
Canal, Lake Union and Union Bay; the latter, a 
fresh-water bight, opens into Lake Washington, 
which for several miles rims the inland shore of 
the city. The wing to the south is divided from 
the central part by the devious Duwamish, whose 
wanderings are terminated in Elliott Bay, the 
salt-water vestibule of Seattle and its two penin- 
sulas. 

The outer pillars of the harbour are 5 miles 
apart and are called West Point and Alki Point. 
West Point is the appropriate site of Fort Law- 
ton, which extends back from the edge of the bluff. 
At Alki, a dozen adult settlers arrived in the year 
1S51 after an overland journey of 108 days from 
Illinois to Portland, and a coast voyage north 
from Astoria. The trading-post on this sharp- 
angled cape projecting into Puget Sound was first 
called New York. Alki means in the Chinook 
tongue, " after a while," and this phrase signify- 
ing postponed expectations was facetiously added 
to the original name. The city which was subse- 
quently platted along the edge of Elliott Bay, 
some miles east of Alki, might to-day consistently 
add the Chinook words to her scutcheon. For 
Seattle hopes, after a while, to be the New York 
of the Pacific. 

Chief Se-alth came in 1852 with some of his tribe 
to camp at Alki and fish. His father, according 
to Arthur Denny, the Illinois pioneer, was a 



162 THE TOURIST'S NORTHWEST 

Suqumpsh, his mother a Duwampsh. Blessed with 
a good disposition, a firm character and uncom- 
mon intelligence, he had influence with his tribes- 
men and was respected by the Whites. In compli- 
ment to him, Denny, Bell and Boren gave his name, 
slightly altered, to the infant community which 
came into being on the bay shore and on the bluff 
above the water. The village was scarcely out of 
its swaddling clothes when Indians from the banks 
of the Snoqualmie attacked and massacred some 
of the settlers. Block-houses and a stockade were 
built in 1855-6 for the defence of the settlement. 
A series of hostile engagements with Leschi, " one 
of the Nisqually chiefs ... a busy intriguer and 
great traveller," occupied a lengthy period during 
which it was unsafe to live outside the palings of 
the village enclosure. 

Gone are warrior Indians, gone are the cabins on 
the bluff, and the Yesler mill which sawed the tim- 
ber for the building of Seattle, and the rough 
stores that sold pork and butter from the other 
side the Horn, flour from Chili and sugar from 
the Orient. A massive city with high contour of 
buildings and towers, hemmed at its base with 
masts, tracked by railways, boulevards and 
thronged streets, is the present-day bearer of the 
old chief's name. 

Great piers occupy the centre shore line. To 
the right of an incoming vessel rears the L. C. 
Smith Building, a 42-story landmark as chill and 
ungainly as any lighthouse on a lonely cliff. 
Structural billows of ten or twenty stories' crest 
surge toward it from the north. On the topmost 
of the city's mounting terraces stands a stately 
cathedral, as so often a cathedral stands high 
above the cities of the world. 



SEATTLE, OLYMPICS, EASTERN ROUTES 163 

Seattle's progress lias not bated since the first 
treasure-ship came down from Alaska with its 
cargo of lucky miners' pokes. Between July, 
1898, and January, 1907, nearly $140,000,000 was 
received at the Seattle Assay Office. Since then, 
another hundred million has been added to the 
store. A proportion of the gold washed on the 
banks of the Klondyke and transported in frail 
ships to the city on the Sound was employed in the 
purchase of real estate "additions," in erecting 
in Seattle new commercial buildings, new hotels, 
houses and factories, and in establishing new farm, 
fish and lumber enterprises. Since 1900, Seattle, 
the cash-box of Alaska and the Yukon and entrepot 
of Oriental produce, has gained 300 per cent, in 
population. Millionaires are as plentiful as briers 
in a bramble. Not a few laid their fortune on the 
oozy flats at the mouth of the Duwamish, where a 
payment of $10 a month originally secured a size- 
able plot, at times invisible above water. When 
bay frontage grew scarce, and two new railways 
sought ocean level terminals in 1904, the value of 
the tide-lands rose, higher than any waves that had 
washed them, and presently the clerk, promoter, 
marketman or dock-hand who had sunk his sav- 
ings in the mud, found himself worth many hun- 
dred times his investment. 

A prophet, not a Northwesterner, who believes 
in Seattle, expounds the reasons for his confidence 
on the following convincing basis : 

"The causes that produce urban centres of popu- 
lation are fairly defined, easy of classification and 
ever present. They are nine in all, five natural 
and four man-made. Those cities that measure 
nearest 100 per cent, standard in all these causes 
develop faster and more permanently. The 



164 THE TOURIST'S NORTHWEST 

causes, in order, are : Natural : — water, topogra- 
phy, climate, location, fertility; man-made: — 
energy, character, civic development, good roads. 

" Some of these terms, in reference to Seattle, 
need no explanation — for instance, water supply 
and climate. 

" With regards to topography, I take into con- 
sideration the hills with their unsurpassed views of 
Sound and lakes, forest and snow-capped peaks, 
for residences ; a business centre easy of access ; 
plenty of level land alongside deep water and rail 
transportation for manufacturing and commercial 
purposes. 

" As to location, this city is the gateway to 
Alaska and the Orient, and a primary shipping- 
point coastwise. . . . 

" The word fertility is not used in the restricted 
sense of how fertile the farming area may be, but 
rather of all things in which the tributary terri- 
tory may be fertile. For instance, the sea here- 
about is fertile in fish, the ground in coal and 
other mineral, the land is grain and cattle, the 
forest in lumber. 

" The energy of your people is shown in the won- 
derful city you have built in a quarter of a cen- 
tury. . . . 

" These things also illustrate the character of 
the people: obstacles no matter how great, over- 
come; splendid institutions, and business crea- 
tions that dominate this important section of the 
United States, civic development that is ideal, such 
as is typified in a system of boulevards and parks 
that has no equal anywhere. 

" The term good roads, like fertility, must be 
used in a generic way, including waterways for 
commerce; the Sound and its splendid harbour, 



SEATTLE, OLYMPICS, EASTERN ROUTES 165 

for instance; steam railways, many transconti- 
nental lines having termini here; street cars, in- 
terurban trolley lines ; automobile roads, such as 
the Pacific and other Highways in which the State 
and county are so widely investing for the future ; 
well-paved streets, arterial lines of travel. 

" Seattle . . . will in time become the largest 
city on the Coast; and, eventually, one of the 
half-dozen largest cities in the United States. 
Why? Because Seattle has within itself all the 
essentials for the making of a really great city." 

No one questions statements so logical and so 
true in analysis. Materially, Seattle is all that 
is sprightly and ambitious, shrewd, capable and 
knowing. Moreover, great institutions for learn- 
ing have been built, the music of local organisa- 
tions is liberally patronised, homes are beauti- 
fied beyond the homes of most other cities, away 
from the Pacific Coast. Yet to the stranger, the 
sojourner for a week or a month, the city has the 
cold gloss of a new house in which no fire has yet 
been lighted; too busy in its rearing, it has had 
no time, so far, to mature a soul. The dollar 
mark is obtrusively the city's crest. The visitor 
is greeted with a noisy geniality if his pockets 
jingle loud enough. If his touring-car be large 
and shiny, or if as a " home-seeker " he express 
interest in a sightly lot, the eagerness of Seattle 
is as Calif ornian as — Los Angeles. 

Given a longer period for the seasoning of its 
roof-tree, for the mellowing of the wine of cour- 
tesy, for the refining of its money-lust, and per- 
haps we shall have in Seattle a civic personality 
less brusque, less conscious of its bank clearings, 
less glib as to the size and cost of " improvements," 
a, city cultured, not boastful of its literacy only, 



166 THE TOURIST'S NORTHWEST 

and one more in tune with that best of all things, 
common kindness unalloyed with self-interest. 

The cradle of the town is Pioneer Place, an ir- 
regular plot enclosed by four streets which were 
the first built upon by the fathers of Seattle. 
Originally it was the centre of industry. Vari- 
ous interests still revolve around it, though busi- 
ness has extended north and south of this old- 
time region at First Avenue and oblique Yesler 
Way. Loungers seek the sun here, as in San 
Francisco's Portsmouth Square. The tourist 
comes to see the ancient pole of Thlinget heraldry 
installed on a central grass plot. This symbol 
of totemism, 60 feet tall and allegorically carved, 
once belonged to a prominent family of the Raven 
Clan, who resided on the Alaskan island of Ton- 
gas. It is related that loyal sons of Seattle made 
off with the armourial souvenir in the absence of 
the chief, and thereby called down upon their 
heads dark Thlinget maledictions. Any one 
happening upon the spot unawares might think 
the curse had come true in the coloured and dis- 
torted sculpturings that clamber up and down the 
column. At the top, according to Alaskan in- 
terpreters, is the Raven carrying off the moon, in 
compliance with a north coast legend. His feet 
rest upon a symbolical women and frog, who in 
turn crouch upon the Mink, the Whale and the 
Chief of All, the Thunder-bird, each of which has 
its own significance in the lore of the Alaska In- 
dians. 

Down Yesler Way are the docks where one takes 
ship for Shanghai or Tacoma, Skagway or the 
San Juan Islands ; where half a hundred steam- 
ship lines unload silks, gold and halibut, and where 
cargoes of salmon, lumber, wheat and merchan- 



SEATTLE, OLYMPICS, EASTERN ROUTES 167 

dise, in incredible volume, are taken aboard for 
world ports. The shops on the harbour-front sell 
things that whisper of the sea. Odours are salt 
and tarry. Boots are hip-high, coats plaid or 
shiny yellow. Head-gear is broad brimmed behind. 
Windows bulge with tackle and cordage, anchors 
and seines, and the bow-legged men you jostle 
may be cod-fishers outfitting for a Bering bank, a 
whaling captain shopping for the latest thing 
in harpoons, a Siwash with a 20-pound salmon 
caught from his canoe in the bay, or a knot of 
navvies just off an up-from-the-depths submarine. 

The fish markets are as appetising, if not so 
curious, as those of Marseilles. All the markets 
of Seattle show tasty produce the year through, 
and the proper thing, if you are a householder, 
is to turn your feet or your motor to the several 
centres of buying any week-day, with a basket on 
your arm. 

Up Yesler Way, above First Avenue, are the 
stations of the interurban and continental rail- 
ways, and the City Hall, in an attractive park. 
The Great Northern and Northern Pacific Com- 
panies, with allied railroads, use the high- 
towered building at King Street. The new pass- 
enger station of the Oregon — Washington Rail- 
road, and the Chicago, Milwaukee and St. Paul, 
with its Puget Sound subsidiaries, is a block or 
so beyond. The chief business blocks are be- 
tween University and Stewart Streets, on the 
avenues numbered First to Sixth, each one of 
which is a block higher up the hill than the num- 
ber next below it. Shops and many theatres, 
banks, steamship agencies, some hotels, and, in 
general, establishments which cater to tourists' 
needs, centre on Second and Third Avenues, be- 



168 THE TOURIST'S NORTHWEST 

tween Cherry and University streets, with Madi- 
son as the vertebra. Third and Fourth Avenues 
were lowered to make business and residential 
streets with a comfortable grade. A well-paved 
and comparatively level thoroughfare now tra- 
verses the Denny Hill section where the old Wash- 
ington Hotel formerly stood on a dusty bluff. 

Things-to-do in the downtown district include a 
visit in favourable weather to the tower of the 
Smith Building at Second and Yesler Way, for a 
survey of the city and its extraordinarily beauti- 
ful surroundings. Even in summer-time, moun- 
tain mists, often obscure the Olympics, which 
oppose a serrated wall across the Sound, and the 
signal peaks of Rainier and Baker. Travellers 
come and go who never behold them, except as 
their beckoning summits lift ethereally above a 
screen of vapour. But a crystal day such as the 
Puget Sound weather-god not infrequently grants, 
discloses ranges of unimaginable beauty, and in- 
dividual pyramids of glinting snow to whose apex 
we look up from sea level more than two miles to- 
ward the blue. The long, many-fingered inlet 
thrusts far to the south and west, and reaches 
among romantic isles to the Pacific. A world 
resort must surely have arisen here, if not a place 
of commerical activity. 

The doors of the Chamber of Commerce Alaska 
Bureau, 1206 Fourth Avenue, are open to every 
one interested in the exhibit and noon lecture 
concerning the land of mines, fish, glaciers 
and big vegetables. Near-by are the Travellers' 
Free "information Bureau, and the seven-story 
building of the Seattle Athletic Club. The 
dignified and costly structure of the Public Li- 
brary occupies, with its marble approaches, the full 



SEATTLE, OLYMPICS, EASTERN ROUTES 169 

block between Fourth and Third Avenues and 
Madison and Spring Streets. The branch system 
of the Carnegie-aided institution includes ten or 
more buildings specifically erected for the instal- 
lation of reference and circulating libraries, and 
several others where, in rented quarters, books are 
permanently installed or are in temporary deposit 
in stores. Strangers properly identified have no 
difficulty in securing the privileges of the circulat- 
ing libraries, and are at all times made welcome in 
the congenial reading-rooms. Opposite the main 
edifice is the new home of the Young Men's Chris- 
tian Association. 

The million-dollar Federal Building, which houses 
the Post Office, is situated at Third Avenue and 
Union Street. In this vicinity are the offices of the 
Times and the Post-Intelligencer, chief among the 
city's seventy journals. University Street is a 
focal district for fine clubs, churches and resi- 
dences. The Automobile Club, at Number 405, 
supplies informing literature concerning drives 
over local boulevards and to outlying regions of 
varied interest. At Fifth Street, the Washington 
Art Association admits visitors to view its small 
but well-chosen collection. Three paintings that 
especially appeal, " Davidson Glacier," " Autumn 
Cottonwoods," and " Charm of the Yukon," are by 
Leonard M. Davis, an Eastern artist who is 
recognised as at once the most spiritual and the 
most accurate interpreter of Alaskan moods. 
His work is the result of sixteen years' artistic 
research, during which he lived on the Arctic 
Circle and travelled in every part of Alaska and 
the Yukon. Mechanically, his canvases have in- 
terest in that the pigments are laid on, not in 
the ordinary manner ? but with spatulas of two 



170 THE TOURIST'S NORTHWEST 

sizes, by which, in the eyes of an eminent critic, 
Davis obtains " a purity, luminosity and uniform- 
ity of colour values having a higher vibratory ac- 
tion than with the brushes." The clearest, finest 
effects are secured in this simplest of manners. 
Visitors to the Government Building at the San 
Francisco Fair saw an exhibition of 127 sketches 
and finished paintings done by this ardent crafts- 
man during his protracted journey ings in the 
Northland. 

A block up the hill from the rooms of the Art As- 
sociation one's curiosity is excited by a large rec- 
tangular edifice with colonial facade and steeple, 
which suggests architecturally any thing from a 
school to a State House. It is in fact an institu- 
tional church, whose membership expended upon the 
building several hundred thousand dollars and an 
amount of originality usually lacking in ecclesias- 
tical organisations. The Plymouth Congrega- 
tional Church contains four main floors and 
seventy rooms, including an auditorium having 
1600 seats, a school, a gymnasium and a banquet 
hall. Seattle is prolific in church buildings of un- 
common size and design. The congregation of 
the First Presbyterian Church is said to be the 
largest of that denomination in the country. St. 
James Roman Catholic Cathedral, situated on the 
crest of the ridge, has twin square towers 175 
feet high, and a seating capacity of 1400. 

Many civic and private structures signifying 
zeal and prosperity, numerous engaging hillside 
residential quarters, some untidy stretches and 
ugly blocks mark the route of the electric railways, 
and of motor omnibuses and observation cars 
which leave from convenient centres at stipulated 
hours of the day and evening. All the city's forty 



SEATTLE, OLYMPICS, EASTERN ROUTES 171 

parks are accessible by car. Seattle has a park 
adapted to every condition, humour and taste, and 
a score of neighbourhood fields for children and 
youths to grow well and happy on. To Alki Park 
one goes for the surf bathing, and to Schmidt's 
Park, near-by in West Seattle, to see big trees ; to 
Jefferson Park, on Beacon Hill, to play golf, with 
Mt. Rainier for score-keeper ; to Seward, Mt. 
Baker, Colman, Leschi, Madrona and Madison 
Parks for sundry diversions inspired by the 
proximity of Lake Washington, a twenty-mile 
playground for water sports ; to Washington, In- 
terlaken and Louise Boren Parks for lake vistas, 
as to Kinnear for views of Puget Sound; and to 
Volunteer for the gardening, for the tower view 
of twenty peaks which have more than 6000 feet 
altitude, and to pay tribute, before his statue, to 
William Henry Seward, instigator of the Alaska 
purchase and unknowing patron of Seattle. An 
aesthetically devised boulevard system, 50 miles 
in extent, unites the city's green acres and facili- 
tates the enjoyment of all its scenes of mountain, 
grove and water. Motor-cars and trams cross 
Lake Union to North Seattle and speed through 
Woodland Park, arrayed in satin lawns and copses, 
then circle Green Lake and go by a diagonal boule- 
vard east to Ravenna Park, where nature's reign 
is undisturbed except by cautious paths and slen- 
der bridges laid at thabase of ancestral firs. 

Swinging back toward the canal that links Lake 
Washington with Lake Union and makes possible 
a passage by boat to the Sound, we approach the 
pleasant site of the Alaska - Yukon Exposition, 
held here in 1909. The State University, for- 
merly established in the centre of the city, fell heir 
not only to the location but to buildings occupied 



172 THE TOURIST'S NORTHWEST 

by the Fair exhibits. The 350-acre campus is 
planted with conifers and deciduous trees, and 
decorated with hedges, flower-beds and peristyles. 

Most of the buildings are light in colour and con- 
form to a severe style of architecture agreeably 
set-off by the park-like surroundings. An open- 
air theatre seats thousands of spectators at pag- 
eants and festivals, and athletic fields are the 
scene, winter and summer, of events important in 
the Northwestern Sports Calendar. The State 
Museum and the Forestry Building are open to 
visitors. The statue of George Washington, by 
Lorado Taft, invites attention, and varied com- 
ment. 

The early biography of the University, which 
has now on its roll about 4000 students, is given 
in the following paragraph by Professor Edmond 
S. Meany, long associated with the Chair of His- 
tory and author of historical works : 

"In 1851, the Legislature created two equal uni- 
versities — one at Seattle and one at Boisfort, in 
Lewis County. These were united in 1858 and 
located on Cowlitz Farm Prairie in Lewis County. 
The third and successful location was made in 
Seattle in 1861, the Legislature requiring the gift 
of ten acres as a site, which was made by Arthur 
A. Denny, Charles C. Terry, and Edward Lander." 

This grant, of comparatively small commercial 
value fifty years ago, now ^comprises one of the 
most profitable parcels of real estate in Seattle. 

Excursions East from Seattle. 

Interposed between two mountain ranges only 100 
miles apart, and situated on both salt and fresh- 
water bodies, with hundreds of miles of boat and 



SEATTLE, OLYMPICS, EASTERN ROUTES 173 

motor routes branching in all directions to islands, 
to sea-arms, to highland lakes and rivers, and 
to dominant peaks and fruitful valleys, Seattle 
offers an infinitude of excursions, many of which 
will yield in a day rare experiences not to be 
forgotten in a lifetime. 

Close at home there are the little steamers which 
ply the length of Lake Washington and through- 
out their course acquaint one with innumerable 
coves where house-boats idle, and canoes and 
launches substitute wheeled vehicles. Automo- 
biles cross the lake by one of two ferries, or travel 
around its shores to reach the hilly country be- 
3 7 ond Renton and Enumclaw. The interurban car 
to Renton passes near the lake, among trim gar- 
dens and orchards. 

The same alternative of an all-road or a ferry- 
and-road route is presented in planning the trip 
(25-28 m.) to Snoqualmie Falls, among the foot- 
hills of the Cascades. (De Lape motor tour 
from 114 James St., Seattle, daily at 9 a. m. 
Return fare, $3.) Near North Bend (also 
reached by rail, 52 m.), three forks of the 
Snoqualmie River unite and are precipitously cast 
over a flange of broken rock, whose drop is 268 
feet. Niagara's maximum fall is a hundred feet 
less. The roar and the eternal spray which in 
spring and early summer flings half way up the 
cliff, token the great power of the torrent. Its 
flow, fretted by the wind and torn by jutting 
prongs, descends like a billowy train of some fabric 
filmier than lace to the dark floor of the on-going 
river. 

A short way off is the plant where electricity 
for the lighting of Seattle is generated by the 
cataract. 



174 THE TOURIST'S NORTHWEST 

The Snoqualmie road is a lateral of the Sunset 
Highway, from which a detour beyond North Bend 
is made to Cedar Falls. Continued up the slope 
of the Cascades, the Highway attains an altitude 
of 3000 feet at Snoqualmie Pass, 2 65 miles dis- 
tant from Seattle. A few miles east of the divide 
is charming Lake Keechelus, where an inn offers 
good accommodation for excursionists, or for 
travellers by the through rail and motor route be- 
tween Seattle and Spokane (rail, 314 m.), via 
Ellen sburg. The views on the way up the flank 
of the range and over the summit are thrillingly 
beautiful. 

Another motor excursion whose reward is gush- 
ing waters and still high pinnacles patched with 
summer snows is the popular day run to Gold Bar 
and Index, the latter distant to the northeast 56- 
75 miles, according to the road taken. 

An excellent way to view Seattle harbour, its 
beaches, piers and great mills, is to hire a launch 
on the water-front, or take passage on the sight- 
seeing yacht which leaves foot of Columbia Street 
twice every afternoon; fare 75 cents. 

The Olympic Peninsula. 

An hour's trip by steamer (Colman Dock, 6 times 
every week-day), out of Elliott Bay and across the 
Sound, is concluded at Bremerton Navy Yard. 
The route lies past Bainbridge Island, where Chief 
Se-alth was buried on the Indian Reservation fol- 
lowing his death in 1886. The old civilisation, 
represented by this ancient landlord of Puget 

2 Early in 1915, the Chicago, Milwaukee and St. Paul Rail- 
road completed a tunnel over 2 miles long through the 
summit, 450 ft. beneath the former elevation of the tracks. 



SEATTLE, OLYMPICS, EASTERN ROUTES 175 

Sound, and the new, exampled in the clangour about 
the Government's 870-foot dry-dock and the mod- 
ern gear for the renovation of dreadnaught and 
torpedo boat destroyer, is in illuminating contrast. 
Naval vessels cruising Pacific waters come to 
Bremerton to be riveted, or scraped, or fitted with 
new engines, and these processes of restoration 
outsiders are permitted to witness. Thirteen 
hundred workmen are here in the employ of the 
Government. In May, Bremerton folk invite the 
Puget Sound country to their Rhododendron Fes- 
tival. 

A salt-water voyage at the foot of virgin peaks 
is the one which may be begun from Seattle any 
morning, and pursued 78 miles into the ocean- 
bordered Olympic Peninsula by way of Hood 
Canal, longest inlet of this " longest and most in- 
tricate sound in the world." As we cross to Ad- 
miralty Inlet and round Foulweather Bluff, we 
recall that the first one to navigate this fjord into 
the depths of a mountain wilderness was a lieu- 
tenant of Vancouver's crew of argonauts. A 
point directly opposite Seattle, off Bainbridge 
Island, was the anchorage of the Discovery and 
the Chatham in the spring of 1792. From this 
base, small boats were commissioned to reconnoitre 
the bays and arms of the newly-discovered inter- 
ior sea. Mt. Baker and Mt. Rainier had already 
unveiled their faces to the navigators and received 
white men's names to substitute the Indian Kulshan 
and Tacoma. Capes, caves and deep harbours 
along Juan de Fuca Strait had been christened 
and anon recorded in the log of the explorers. 
With a degree of envy we read of these first forays 
of the English captain and his associates. To be 
the first of one's race to look on the overwhelming 



176 THE TOURIST'S NORTHWEST 

heights of Rainier - Tacoma, to know that the 
prow of no other white man had cut the deep 
and placid waters of these tree-shadowed fair- 
ways — these were dispensations to recompense all 
hazard ! 

The Canal, named on May 13, 1792, for the Right 
Honourable Lord Hood, enters from the west side 
of the Sound and makes a wide track, over 80 
miles long, at the base of mountain palisades whose 
culminating ridge to the northwest is 5000 feet 
above the deck of the trim Potlatch. The Olym- 
pic Highway is laid along the cliffs of the west 
bank. Beyond Dabop Bay and Quilcene, the 
Rivers Dosewallips, Duckabush, Hama Hama and 
Liliwaup, more musical in their passage than are 
their names upon the lips, pour down dim canyons 
in crashing water-falls. Their sources are among 
the topmost flights of the range called by the 
Spaniards the "Angels' Stairway." The Olym- 
pics have their apex in the lofty triumvirate, 
Olympus (8183),Fitzhenry (8098) and Constance 
(7717), which rise in the north central part of 
the broad peninsula. Each of these summits is at 
the head of descending ranges which branch like 
the radial arms of a star-fish, and carry on their 
backs forests so dense and remote as to be solely 
habited by bear, elk, cougar and other denizens 
whose haunts are rarely disturbed, except by hun- 
ters and fire rangers. The central and southern 
area of the Peninsula is set apart as a Federal 
Reserve. 

Camps and inns cluster about the streams that 
disgorge in the canal, and may also be found 
back from the water among groves of firs and 
cedars whose branches often soar more than 200 
feet above the earth, and are planted about their 




LOOKIXG NORTH OX SECOND AVENUE, SEATTLE 



SEATTLE, OLYMPICS, EASTERN ROUTES iff 

wide-spreading bases with maples, fern thickets, 
and jungles of the fatsia Jwrrida, known also to 
wary pedestrians as the Devil's Club. At Lake 
Cushman, reached via Hoodsport by auto-stage 
or saddle-horse over a 9-mile road, there are at- 
tractive log hotels, cottages and tents for those 
to whom the call of the wild is insistent. 

Where the Canal bends acutely to the east, it is 
significant of the country's ruling sport in its 
fish-hook curve. The Skokomish Valley opens 
into the inlet near the terminal of the steamer line 
and suggests another route toward the foot-stool 
of high Olympus. Union City, with a population 
of 100, is " devoted to fishing, farming and logging 
. . . has a broom handle factory and a saw mill." 
From this statement an idea is gained of Hood 
Canal commerce. A stage conveys passengers 
from the tin}^ rural port to Shelton on a narrow 
fork of the Sound, a few miles distant. Here one 
takes boat or stage for Olympia (21 m.). From 
the State capital, at the southern extremity of 
Puget Sound, the journey may progress by boat 
or train to Tacoma, and so back to Seattle. 

Shelton is the eastern terminus of a rail line which 
crosses the lower Peninsula to within 10 miles of 
M'oclips, a favourite beach. 

A 150-mile excursion along the upper coast of the 
sea-girt, snow-tipped domain of the Olympics re- 
traces the path of the Discovery and the Chatham, 
when they followed whither the Strait of Juan de 
Fuca led, twelve decades ago. 3 They came seek- 

3 Steamers of the Puget Sound Company leave the Colman 
Dock, Seattle, on frequent schedule for Port Townsend (42 
m.)» Port .Angeles, and landings between these harbours 
and Neah Bay (147 m.), near the mouth of the Strait. 
Most of the sailings are at night. Three boats leave daily 



178 THE TOURIST'S NORTHWEST 

ing among the island chain which stretches between 
the Peninsula and the mainland, north of Seattle. 
Near the entrance to Hood Canal, Whidbey Island, 
commemorating one of Vancouver's subordinates, 
contracts the channel through which sloop-of-war 
and armed tender passed, as we pass on the steam- 
ing Bellingham or Sol Due. 4 Port Townshend 
was the name originally given to the harbour on the 
eastward headland of the Peninsula. Behind the 
headland, the adventurers had a temporary 
rendezvous in a deep haven named for Vancouver's 
flag-ship. The forests have been cleared on a 
high green bluff to make room for the sightly town 
which in a year records the movements of many 
hundreds of vessels bound for home and foreign 
ports. Puget Sound Coast Artillery, the Revenue 
Cutter service, the Quarantine and Hydrographic 
Service of the United States have their headquar- 
ters at Port Townsend. Two regular army gar- 
risons are stationed on the west side, and a third 
on the east side of Admiralty Inlet. 

Port Townsend is connected by regular steamer 
service with the San Juan Islands. 

for Port Angeles, where there is connection for Lake Cres- 
cent and Sol Due Springs, the resorts principally visited. 
Steamers on the route, Seattle - Bellingham and Seattle - 
Victoria also call at Port Townsend, at the northeastern 
corner of the peninsula. From Port Townsend, the coast 
may be followed westward by the railroad recently built by 
the Chicago, Milwaukee and St. Paul, as far as Earles, be- 
yond Crescent. 

The Olympic Highway also crosses the upper end of the 
peninsula from Port Townsend to Mora (about 100 m.), 
via Lake Crescent. By motor, Seattle - Tacoma - Olympia - 
Shelton - Hoodsport - Quilcene - Port Townsend - Port An- 
geles - Lake Crescent - Mora, 275 miles. 

4 The first steamboat in the Sound trade, the Fairy, a side- 
wheeler, was brought on the deck of the bark, Sarah Warren, 
and thereafter substituted the canoe as mail carrier to 
Olympia. The Beaver also called in here in 1836. 



SEATTLE, OLYMPICS, EASTERN ROUTES 179 

Port Williams, the next call to the west, is the 
outlet for the Sequim country where 65,000 sandy 
acres have been redeemed for agriculture by ir- 
rigation. As a gauge of the prairie's produc- 
tiveness, the size of potatoes is quoted, — pota- 
toes so generously girthed that the Northern Pa- 
cific Railroad thinks them worthy to be served, 
with other Big Potatoes, as an advertised feature of 
its dining-car service. Crops of hay and vege- 
tables share interest on this northern shore with 
catches of crabs and clams — of crabs so huge 
that a single one makes an ample and most ex- 
cellent family dinner. Little thought Captain 
Vancouver when he bestowed the name Dungeness 
upon a sand spit reminiscent of the one he knew 
off the coast of England, that the appellation as 
applied to an immense crustacean, with tender 
sweet meat, would in generations to come enliven 
the menu of eager gourmets up and down this 
coast. 

As the steamer swings wide of the sand bar we 
get a good view of Mt. Baldy, back of Sequim, 
and of Mt. Angeles (6000 ft.), with Constance, 
Fitzhenry and Olympus climbing 2000 feet behind 
the spurs in the foreground. The profile of these 
mountains shows a series of angled pikes capped 
with white, entirely different in effect from the 
detached formations of the Cascade Range. Mt. 
Olympus, first climbed in 1907, is accessible to al- 
pinists from Port Angeles. 5 A horse trail fol- 
lows the Elwha River to the crest of a high ridge 
below Fitzhenry, then drops to Queets Basin, at 
the base of Olympus. An ascent difficult enough 

s The Mountaineers, Seattle, welcome new members (the 
fees are nominal), and give dependable information as to 
climbing routes, camping-places and outfits. 



180 THE TOURIST'S NORTHWEST 

to unaccustomed climbers is crowned by an in- 
describable view of a forest sea, of river valleys 
leading to Sound, Strait and Ocean, and of a 
titanic upheaval of barbs and volcanic cusps re- 
splendent in an armour of ice and snow. 

Port Angeles, distant 25 miles across the Strait 
from Victoria on Vancouver Island, 6 is the landing- 
place for steamer passengers whose destination 
is Lake Crescent and the Hot Springs. The Port 
of the Angels has a history shared by no other 
town in the United States except the national capi- 
tal. Allured by the rare climatic charms of this 
harbour and by its environment, a Government 
Customs Collector, by name Victor Smith, moved 
his office in 1862 to Port Angeles from Port Town- 
send. At his instigation and through the influence 
of President Lincoln and Salmon P. Chase, of Lin- 
coln's cabinet, a law was passed in 1863 permitting 
the Government to trade in new townsites, and 
thereby gain a revenue which should be applied to 
the Civil War debt. Uncle Sam inaugurated and 
terminated an unsuccessful career as a real estate 
promoter at Port Angeles. The last of the " na- 
tional town " lots were sold under the hammer 
twenty years ago, following a series of delays and 
disturbing events during which Mr. Smith, the 
agent provocateur of the whole scheme, was de- 
posed and the customs headquarters re-established 
at Port Townsend. 

The clamorous Elwha and recurring views of 
the mountains companion the way to Lake Cres- 
cent. Sixteen miles from Port Angeles, the mo- 
tor-road is interrupted by the long blue arc which 
flows about the feet of Mt. Storm King (4300 

8 Daily ferry service between these two points. See 
" Georgian Circuit," under " Motorways," Chapter I. 



SEATTLE, OLYMPICS, EASTERN ROUTES 181 

ft.). Cars are ferried from East Beach to Fair- 
holm, 12 miles distant. The lure of Lake Cres- 
cent is the placidity of its water in contrast with 
abrupt and rugged slopes which rise from its 
banks. Vistas real and reflected are framed be- 
tween trees that are devoid of branches for 50 feet 
or more above the ground, and have the smooth 
straightness of brown columns. The scenery of 
its kind is flawless. But most people who stay 
at the Tavern, at Ovington's, or at smaller hotels 
and private camps, come not for scenery only, but 
to fish. One authority gives the number of Cres- 
cent's trout species as ten. Of these, the fighting 
Beardslee is known nowhere else. This is a place 
where anglers' tales come true, as creel-burdened 
processions corroborate. 

From Fairholm, the motor turns due south and 
by a climb of a dozen miles through magnificent 
timber arrives at the Hot Springs of Sol Due — 
locally pronounced Sole Duck. The implied 
scarcity of game does the region injustice. 
Rather, we like to think that here, nearly 2000 
feet above and 30 miles distant from the ocean, 
the sun is arch-duke, in a kingdom of mountains. 

As at most Western places of this sort, the In- 
dians were the pioneer guests. They were cured 
by their own methods of hydro-therapy. They 
believed, as do many white men, in the effect of the 
thermal waters of Sol Due upon a great number 
of varied ills. The spring " whose total of min- 
eral solids is four times greater than the amount 
yielded by any other mineral waters in analysis," 
has a natural temperature of 140°, which is 15° 
hotter than the hottest of the famous Paso de 
Robles waters, in California. The setting of the 
Sol Due establishment is boldly impressive. A 



182 THE TOURIST'S NORTHWEST 

clearing in the midst of evergreen trees provides 
space for a fine new hotel, a sanitarium, several 
bath-houses, and an electrice-lighted tent and cot- 
tage community. The clearing is on the face of 
a sharp slope that is separated from still higher 
and steeper ridges by a trough-like valley, which is 
clothed, like the mountain-flanks, in an unbroken 
sweep of dark forests. Trout fishing, tramping 
glacier trails, recreating in primal woods where 
only the footfall of antlered creatures and the 
murmur of snow streams sound — these are ro- 
bust pleasures enjoyed among the environs of Sol 
Due. 

The motor-road from Fairholm continues west 
for 40 miles, almost to the shore of the Pacific. 
If the steamer trip is resumed at Port Angeles, 
or at Port Crescent (the latter is nearer the lake 
but the road is not so attractive), a 50- or 60-mile 
run through the Strait, between the Peninsula and 
the Island of Vancouver, will have its end at 
Neah Bay. This village is inhabited by Macah 
Indians who live by fishing, by canning fish, by 
conducting sportsmen in expertly handled canoes 
to Pacific halibut grounds, and by the occasional 
capture of a whale. 

A road 5 miles long crosses from Neah Bay to a 
cove just under the reach of Cape Flattery — 
sinister monument of shipwrecks, and the furthest 
corner to the northwest of any point in the United 
States. 

Seattle - Tacoma. By Oregon-Washington Railroad and 
Navigation Company and Chicago, Milwaukee and St, Paul 
Railway, from the station of the first-named line. By Great 
Northern and Northern Pacific Railways, from the Union 
Station. Both stations are near Third Avenue and Wash- 
ington Street, south of Seattle's retail centre. Distance to 
Tacoma, 40 miles in about 1% hours, via Auburn and Puyal- 



Seattle; Olympics, eastern routes iss 

lup. The rail journey may be continued from Tacoma to 
Rainier National Park by the Tacoma Eastern to Ashford 
(55 m.), and thence to the park entrance by auto-bus (6 m.). 

By Interurban electric car every hour from station on 
Yesler Way near Second Avenue; time, 1 hour and 20 
minutes. 

By steamer from Colman Dock, nine times daily. Single 
fare, 35 cents; return 50 cents. Distance and time, 30 
miles in less than 2 hours. Vashon and Maury Islands, 
fertile gardens occupying a large area in the middle of the 
channel, are frequented in summer, and have direct boat 
connection with Seattle and Tacoma. 

In clear weather, the mountain views are especially fine 
on this sound route between the two cities. 

By motor-car, via Hill Road from Auburn, 37 miles; via 
Pacific Highway through Sumner, 41 miles. 

The Pacific Coast Automobile Blue Book notes that tour- 
ists headed for Rainier National Park can shorten the 
route from Seattle by turning off the Pacific Highway 2 
miles beyond Sumner, and proceeding via Puyallup to Orting, 
thence by one of two roads to La Grande on the Tacoma - 
Rainier Highway. 

The De Lape Tours Company, besides operating sight- 
seeing cars in Seattle, despatches a 12-seated car at 7 a. m. 
every day from 114 James Street, Seattle, for a trip of 2 
hours to Tacoma. From Number 1017 A Street, Tacoma, 
the excursion is continued by motor to Longmire Springs 
(63 m.) and Paradise Valley (78 m.), in Rainier National 
Park. Round trip fare between Seattle and Longmire's, 
$9.50; between Seattle and Paradise Valley, $12.50; between 
Tacoma, Longmire and Paradise Valley, $2.50 less. The car 
arrives in Tacoma on the return trip at 6 :45 p. m., and in 
Seattle at 9 p. m. 

The same company sells an optional route excursion ticket 
for $1.95, which permits the purchaser to travel between 
Seattle and Tacoma one way by steamer and one way by 
Interurban, and to book while in Tacoma for one of the 
daily 2-hour sight-seeing trips about the city. Fare for 
the latter trip alone, $1. 

For Tacoma and Mt. Rainier description, see Chapter IX. 

Seattle - Everett (34 m.) - Belllntgham (97 m.) -Blaine 
(119 m.) by Great Northern Railway. The upper Sound 
country is also served by the Northern Pacific line, Seattle - 
Sumas (127 m.), with branches to Everett and Bellingham. 
For route to Wenatchee and Lake Chelan, via Great North- 
ern, see under " Everett," Chapter VIII. 

By Interurban electric car from Fifth Avenue near Pine 
Street, Seattle - Everett in 1 hour and 10 minutes. 



184 THE TOURIST'S NORTHWEST 

By steamer, Seattle - Everett, daily except Saturday at 
10 p. m., from Colman Dock. S.S. Kulshan continues to 
Anacortes, Bellingham and Port Townsend, calling at these 
ports every day. Steamers to Everett are also scheduled 
in the daytime. Seattle - Port Townsend - Anacortes - Bel- 
lingham, by steamer every week-day at 9 a. m. Seattle - 
San Juan Islands direct, three times a week at midnight 
from Colman Dock, touching at Port Townsend en route. 

The Pacific Coast Steamship Company (office 608 Second 
Avenue, Seattle) offers a 3-day tour around the Sound, as 
detailed under " Transportation — Local Steamers — Wash- 
ington," Chapter I. See same chapter for Canadian steam- 
ers which traverse Puget Sound on the way to and from 
British Columbia ports. 

By motor-car, via Pacific Highway, Seattle - Everett (32 
m.)-Mt. Vernon (75 m.) - Bellingham (105 m.) -Blaine 
(130 m.). A tour to Camano and Whidbey Islands may be 
begun at Stanwood, 12 miles south of Mt. Vernon, and ended 
at Mt. Vernon via the road from Anacortes, or the route 
reversed. 

For description of the upper Sound country, see Chapter 
VIII. 

Seattle - Spokane. By the Chicago, Milwaukee and St. 
Paul Railroad, 314 miles in 12 hours. Seattle or Tacoma to 
Spokane by Northern Pacific, 400 miles in 13% hours, via 
Auburn. By Great Northern, via Everett, 339 miles in 12% 
hours. 

By motor, over Sunset Highway, Seattle - North Bend - 
Snoqualmie Pass - Ellensburg - Wenatchee - Coulee City - 
Spokane, 361 miles. The road via North Yakima and 
Walla Walla is considerably longer. 

Routes Across the Cascades 
to the Columbia Basin. 

The route of the Chicago, Milwaukee and St. 
Paul line, via Renton, Snoqualmie Pass (see Note 
2, this chapter), Ellensburg and Marengo, and so 
to Spokane, is diverted for the first 100 miles by 
splendid scenery, embracing mountain heights 
and depths, lakes and bountiful valleys. Lake 
Keechelus, bordered by the track, is the chief re- 
sort advertised by the railway. A short distance 
off the highway are the Kachess Lakes and Clea- 



SEATTLE, OLYMPICS, EASTERN ROUTES 185 

lum Lake, renowned, like Keechelus, for their lofty 
environment and their " trouting." Ellensburg 
(120 m. east of Seattle) is the seat of Kittitas 
County and the manufacturing and agricultural 
centre of a prosperous irrigated section. 

At Beverly, 36 miles further on, the Chicago, 
Milwaukee and St. Paul Road crosses the Colum- 
bia River, which here flows due south between the 
lower slopes of the Cascades and the high plains 
of Eastern Washington, which stretch to Spokane. 

" The longest rapid and the most serious impedi- 
ment to navigation in the whole course of the river 
from Kettle Falls to Tumwater Falls " is Priest 
Rapids, whose 10-mile descent, during which the 
bed drops TO feet, begins a little way below Bev- 
erly. From the foot of the rapid, the river is 
navigable to Pasco, near the borders of southern 
Washington. The section of the Columbia be- 
tween Beverly and Wenatchee, 60 miles to the 
north, is closed to regular navigation by the Cabi- 
net Rapids, whose channel is narrow and shal- 
low, and the Island Rapids, at which the river is 
u split in sunder by ragged pinnacles of basaltic 
rock." A traveller whose book about the Colum- 
bia River has been recommended on an earlier 
page, says, " The river has cut this part of its 
course through the great plateau, and its banks 
on either side are rocky walls a thousand feet high, 
with occasional sandy stretches, sad, barren, and 
monotonous. ... As we proceed upon our way 
the banks fall away, wider expanses of land ap- 
pear, and we discover an occasional band of cattle 
or a settler's hut on the bare, brown prairie." 

The soil about Beverly, though sandy, is highly 
productive under irrigation. Apparent aridity 
is so readily converted to fertility in this amazing 



186 THE TOURIST'S NORTHWEST 

country, that one may remember a certain ter- 
ritory as drearily unproductive, only to return 
in a few years to find great orchards and wheat- 
fields spreading across the one-time desert. 

The western terminus of the Northern Pacific 
Railway is Tacoma, but a branch connects Seattle 
with this line which first linked Puget Sound to 
the eastern world. The Northern Pacific ascends 
the Cascades by a zigzag track from Weston, 
and at a point between Keechelus and Kachess 
Lakes approaches within a short distance the 
trunk line of the Chicago, Milwaukee and St. Paul. 
The two roads run parallel as far as Ellensburg, 
down the eastern slope of the range. From El- 
lensburg the route of the Northern Pacific is to 
the southeast, by way of North Yakima. 

In this northwestern kingdom of incredible con- 
trasts there is no more marked divergence of scen- 
ery and soil characteristics than that which is pre- 
sented about North Yakima. A flat plain of mag- 
nificent breadth, traced by rivers and the precise 
rows of many kinds of fruit trees, specked by 
countless barns and dwellings and squared off 
here and there by yellow grain patches, spreads 
from the lower benches of the Cascades to the 
far dome of Mt. Adams, whose crest is outlined 
against the southwestern horizon. On the rim of 
fortune-making " dry " farms and artificially 
watered orchards are wide tracts where only the 
sage-hen and the coyote thrive in the midst of 
hoary shrubs and sand. Two million apple trees, 
600,000 peach trees, besides trees of the plum, 
the prune, the apricot and the cherry, yield 7,000,- 
000 boxes of rosy-cheeked fruit for the growers 
in the Valley of the Yakima. 



SEATTLE, OLYMPICS, EASTERN ROUTES 18T 

North Yakima, the chief town and county seat, 
had the phenomenal increase in population of 346 
per cent, between the years 1900 and 1910. The 
authoritative estimate of over 20,000 at this writ- 
ing indicates that the ratio is not slackening. 
North Yakima has all the hall marks of western 
progress — paved streets by the mile, a paid fire 
department with modern motor trucks, a central 
heating plant for the whole municipality, a park, 
a library, splendid school and church buildings 
and well-designed homes — all this from out a land 
that was born a desert. 

Wrote Captain George B. McClellan, in Septem- 
ber, 1853, " The valley of the Columbia, near the 
mouth of the Yakima, is a vast sage desert . . . 
barren sage plains mostly without grass, always 
without timber, and very stony." This melan- 
choly report of the future General followed a sur- 
vey of the great new realm to determine the 
feasibility of colonising it and building railroads. 
A few years later the sun-burned valley between 
the Yakima and the Cascades was the battle- 
ground of native forces and a little army of 
American soldiers commanded by officers of the 
regular service, among whom was Lieutenant Sheri- 
dan. The territory marked by the most serious 
engagements is now included in the Yakima In- 
dian Reservation, south of North Yakima. 

A motor highway is projected beyond North 
Yakima and Fort Simcoe through the Reservation, 
to meet one already constructed from Glenwood 
to White Salmon on the Columbia River, opposite 
the town of Hood River, Oregon, with which there 
is connection by ferry. North Yakima, a high- 
way centre, is distant by road 140 miles from The 
Dalles, Oregon, via Sunnyside and Goldendale. 



188 THE TOURIST'S NORTHWEST 

Southeast from North Yakima, the Northern 
Pacific and a lateral of the Oregon — Washington 
Railroad are paralleled by the Inland Empire mo- 
tor highway. Pasco, 90 miles beyond, is the focal 
point of railroads to Spokane and Walla Walla, 
Washington, and to Pendleton and Portland, Ore- 
gon. Here, the Columbia with its recently merged 
tributary, the Yakima, is joined by the Snake 
River. 

The eastern section of the State is described in 
Chapter X. 



CHAPTER VIII 

THE UPPER PUGET SOUND COUNTRY. 
ACROSS THE CASCADES TO LAKE CHELAN 

Everett and near-by Excursions. Everett - Snohomish - In- 
dex - Scenic - Wenatchee - Lake Chelan. From Lake 
Chelan into British Columbia. The San Juan 
Islands - Bellingham - Mt. Baker. Bel- 
lingham to British Columbia. 



Everett. 1 

The beach and upland of Puget Sound belonged 
to Great Britain half a century before the 49th 
parallel fixed the northwestern boundary of 
American territory. Vancouver, standing on the 
shore of the mainland east of the long indented 
hook of Whidbey Island, upon a spot now within 
the bounds of Everett, expressed his loyalty to 
George III of England by claiming and naming 
all this land for him on the royal birthday, June 
4, 1792. The monarch probably cared little that 
his new namesake comprised all the territory ad- 
jacent to the world's largest estuary — all its 
mountains and forests, its minerals, its furry crea- 
tures and the fish that swam its bays and rivers. 
As regards the hilly peninsula which is now the 
site of Everett, it invited no one's interest until 
little more than 25 years ago. Yet to-day there 
are 30,000 people here, supported by the earnings 
of a hundred mills and factories, whose products 
range from shingles and paper to tools, shoes and 

i For routes to the upper Puget Sound country, see page 
183. Also, Everett - Bellingham, page 199. 

189 



190 THE TOURIST'S NORTHWEST 

arsenic. According to a local statistician, " The 
largest body of merchantable timber now standing 
in the world is located on the North Pacific Coast ; 
the densest portion of this marvellous growth is 
found in the Puget Sound country, and no portion 
of the Puget Sound country is more fortunate 
in this respect than Snohomish County, of which 
Everett is the commercial centre and county seat. 
The forests here are immeasurably rich in fir, 
cedar, spruce and hemlock (about 14,000,000 feet 
in sum) and the enormous value of these resources 
is greatly enchanced by their exceptional acces- 
sibility." The rivers Snoqualmie, Skykomish, 
Snohomish and Stillaguamish, the Sauk and the 
Sultan furnish transport for the huge timbers. 
In Snohomish County there are 40 saw mills, 100 
shingle mills and half a dozen box and sash fac- 
tories. The characteristic perfume of Everett is 
that of newly sawed lumber, spiced with the tang 
of the sea. 

Tourists who stop off at the thriving mart can 
gain admission to wood-working plants by apply- 
ing to the secretary of the Commercial Club. One 
industry has an output of more than a million 
red cedar shingles in a day. The mills of the 
Weyerhauser Company also have an enormous ca- 
pacity. 

Not content with views of Baker, the Olympics 
and Rainier, Everett has a double-crowned peak of 
its own — the singularly graceful Mt. Pilchuk, 
which watches above its smoke-wreathed ward from 
a height of 5300 feet. At the city's door is the 
southern half of Whidbey Island, a strangely sea- 
fashioned strip of fertility whose total length is 
50 miles, or approximately the distance between 
Everett and Anacortes. Vacationists seek its 




SNGQUALMIE FALLS, WESTERN WASHIN 



GTOX 



NORTHWESTERN WASHINGTON 191 

deep coves and shady meadows when the cool 
breezes of Puget Sound blow in summer-time. The 
several little ports at which steamers call from 
Everett and Seattle are particularly favoured in 
climate. Snow descends lightly if at all, fogs are 
rare, though the passage to the sea named for 
the Greek navigator, de Fuca, is directly opposite, 
and according to record, the rainfall at Coupe- 
ville, the seat of Island County, averages less than 
17 inches a year. The steamer lane north of Ev- 
erett passes between Whidbey Island and Camano 
Island, which is the width of a narrow channel 
to the east. 

Back of Everett is Lake Stevens, off the line of 
the Northern Pacific Railway, Seattle - Snohom- 
ish — Sumas. A road which forks from this line 
at Hartford (15 miles northeast of Everett by 
rail) carries one for 4& miles through a region 
rich in gold and granite. Monte Cristo is the op- 
timistic name of the terminal station, under the lee 
of the northern cordillera. The point on this 
road principally visited by rail and motor tourists 
is Granite Falls, a little way beyond Hartford. 

The extreme northeast corner of Snohomish 
County is made illustrious by the presence of the 
little known but truly sublime Glacier Peak, whose 
elevation is but a few hundred feet less than that 
of Baker, its neighbour 60 miles to the north. 
Difficult trails lead to it from Index and from the 
head of Lake Chelan, east of the Cascades. 

Everett — Scenic — Wenatchee — Lake Chelan. 2 

Everett is the headquarters of the Great North- 
ern's Cascade Division. The tracks are laid 

2 For route, Everett - Bellingham, see page 199. Everett - 
Wenatchee by Great Northern Railway, 132 miles in 6 hours 



192 THE TOURIST'S NORTHWEST 

through the Snohomish Valley, which has its de- 
bouchement at Everett. En route to the moun- 
tains is the town of Snohomish, 9 miles east of the 
Sound. Here the Great Northern trunk line 
meets the Northern Pacific Road, Seattle - Sumas, 
and meets also a branch of the Chicago, Milwau- 
kee and St. Paul, Cedar Falls - Snoqualmie Falls - 
Everett. Interurban and river-boat lines from 
Everett, and the motor highway, Everett — Sno- 
homish — Index — Stevens Pass — Wenatchee, in- 
crease the importance of this valley town as a 
transportation centre. 

The stations Monroe, Sultan, Startup and Gold 
Bar intervene between Snohomish and Index. 
Near Monroe, the Rivers Skykomish and Snoqual- 
mie join the Snohomish River. The little village 
of Index is at the junction of the impetuous South 
and North Forks of the Skykomish and is confined 
by a pinnacled wall so steep, so white, in every way 
so beguiling to the mountain-lover that this region 
has become the resort of camping parties and of 
enthusiasts who outfit in Index and seek long trails 
up the breast of the Cascades, and among their 
passes as far north and as high as Glacier Peak. 

Above the swirling Skykomish, the mountain 
called Index (6125 ft.) marks the way. The 
tracks assume an additional incline of 100 feet 
every 10 miles or so, until at Skykomish station 
an electric engine lends its aid in the climb to 
Scenic Hot Springs (2086 ft.), where a chalet hotel 
offers entertainment to guests who come to take 
the waters and to revel in canyon views along the 
River Tye. Beyond Scenic, there follows for half 
an hour an ingenious ascent of nearly 1300 feet 

by morning train. Everett - Wenatchee - Spokane, 306 miles 
in 11 hours. 



NORTHWESTERN WASHINGTON 193 

through tunnels winding and straight, short and 
long, and through concrete snowsheds to the high- 
est bore on the Great Northern route, Cascade 
Tunnel. During a run of S 1 /^ miles the engines 
climb BOO feet into the heart of a mountain, 
whose summit is over a third of a mile above 
the inclined track. 

The automobile road through Stevens Pass 
(4000 ft.) follows the abandoned grade of the 
railway, which formerly spiraled over the sum- 
mit a short distance to the south of Cascade Tun- 
nel. 

The exhilaration of the down-ride begins at 
Berne, — Swiss in name and prospect. Wild 
views engross the traveller during the quickening 
passage past resonant gorge and ravine, through 
still forests to Leavenworth and down to the apple- 
set plain of the Wenatchee River, which at the 
town of Wenatchee empties into the Columbia. 
A panorama of prosperity similar to the one about 
North Yakima stretches here for many miles, 
where lay a mesa of unproductive ash until irri- 
gation was practised. Thirty-five thousand acres 
are given to the cultivation of apples alone, but 
all sorts of temperate zone fruits thrive in this 
benign climate. The part of the valley which is in 
Chelan County, protected by the mountains and 
arched by a rarely clouded sky, yields nearly 
4,000,000 boxes of high-coloured fruit in a year. 
The peaches, the pears and the apples are luscious 
to look at and bring top prices. Prejudiced East- 
erners protest that the flavour of these fruits 
grown under irrigation is inferior to the juicy 
product of New York or Ohio. 

In 1900, the town of Wenatchee, financial re- 
pository of North Central Washington, had 450 



194 THE TOURIST'S NORTHWEST 

inhabitants. Now it has ten times as many. Of 
late years the name has meant more than apples 
to travellers, for Wenatchee is the departing-point 
of the new Great Northern branch to Oroville 

(137 m.), and by this route, Chelan, limpid jewel 
of the American alps, is conveniently approached. 
A few who knew this lake fifty miles long, one mile 
narrow, a thousand feet above the sea, — knew 
what supreme exposition of mountain beauty re- 
warded the journey, used sometimes to ascend the 
swift channel of the Columbia before the railroad 
came, pack their outfits by road from the river to 
the lower end of the lake, and voyage in small 
boats over the jade and azure highway which is 
Chelan — " beautiful water " — into the high re- 
cesses of the northern sierra. All fatigue and 
exposure they thought compensated by the visions 
revealed to them. One of these pioneer pilgrims 
to the shrines of Chelan has chronicled the joy 
of " rocking on the glassy swell " in a little boat 
driven by his own oars, the delirious trepidation 
of crouching all night in a cleft of the shore while 
thunder beat its wings " from peak to peak, the 
rattling crags among," the ecstasy of a tranquil 
dawn when again " lake and sky smiled . . . 
serenely at each other." 

We journey to Chelan, not by the arduous Co- 
lumbia, but by an accommodating train which 
awaits the arrival at Wenatchee 3 of morning ex- 
presses from both Seattle and Spokane. For an 
hour and a half the curve of the Columbia is fol- 
lowed to a point near which the out-poured waters 
of the lake tumble from the orifice of a marvel- 

3 Fare, Wenatrhee to head of Lake Chelan and return, June 
1st to September 15th, $&S5. Before and after the dates 
specified, return fare, $0.80. 



NORTHWESTERN WASHINGTON 193 

lously contorted gorge into the river. Descend- 
ing from the train, we find seats in motor omni- 
buses which convey us 4 miles up the Chelan River 
canyon to Lakeside. The night is spent here 
at the foot of the lake in comfortable hotels. 
By half past seven of a summer week-day morn- 
ing (Monday, Wednesday and Friday only, in 
. June and October), the Lady of the Lake 
and Comanche are away on their cruise to Stehe- 
kin, at the head of the fresh-water fjord. The 
agreeable leisure of the slower craft is supple- 
mented by the fast service of the high-powered 
May Belt, which makes the run of 50 miles in S 1 ^ 
hours, following the arrival of the noon train from 
the north. 

Embarked upon the lake which opens like a 
rift of blue through ranks of snowy peaks, we ride 
in a glacial abyss whose depth below the water is 
a third of the mountains' height above it. " Not 
such another furrow/' says our pioneer chronicler, 
K has Time wrought on the face of the Western 
Hemisphere. . . . Over a mile and a half of ver- 
tically! This surpasses in depth Yosemite, Yel- 
lowstone, Columbia, or even Colorado Canyon. 
As compared with those more familiar wonc. 
continues Professor Lyman, " Chelan lacks the in- 
comparable symmetry and completeness of Yose- 
mite; it has not such a multitude of waterfalls 
and groups of ' castled crags ' as are seen within 
the basaltic gates of the Columbia ; it does not 
display that variety of colouring, especially of the 
lighter and warmer hues, which astonishes the be- 
holder of the Colorado or the Yellowstone, and it 
has no especially curious feature like the geysers 
of the last ; but for immensity, for a certain 
chaotic sublimity, for the rich and sombre gran- 



196 THE TOURIST'S NORTHWEST 

deur of the purple and garnet, dusky and indigo- 
tinted shore views, Chelan surpasses any of the 
others, while in its water views, — s sea of glass 
mingled with fire,' where every cloud in the chang- 
ing sky and all the untold majesty of the hills 
find their perfect mirror ... a kaleidoscope 
of earth and heaven beyond imagination to 
conceive ... in all this Chelan is without a 
rival." 

As our boat progresses, the height and glamour 
of the spectacle grows upon us. Foothills give 
way to spurs, and spurs to the main structure 
of the Cascades built up in crested masses to the 
north and west. Tree-covered spines which come 
down to the water and dip their shadows in the 
crystal flow, inter-fold like green and rocky sur- 
plices to bar the path. But an unforeseen turn 
of the channel, and the way is revealed to new won- 
ders, to combinations of wonders, to motley moulds, 
postures and encincturcs creating an entirely dif- 
ferent investment of mountain splendour. The 
sky is dulled by spreading clouds — the close- 
drawn cordon holds a menace of storm and domi- 
nant power which alarms, but thrills. The placid 
rippling of the lake is stirred to wavelets flecked 
with grey; the wind rises in the narrow lane and 
sweeps the water into winged fury. The skipper 
sets his course to the nearest landing as a drift 
of white masks the highest peaks. The gusts are 
cold from off the glaciers bosomed among the 
storm king's haunts. We shiver, but an elemental 
love of conflict keeps us on the deck of the quiver- 
ing craft to witness the surge and lash of things in 
this upper nook of the world, where tempests 
are brought forth and torrents fabricated. . . . 
In an hour the wind-gods are appeased. The flur- 



NORTHWESTERN WASHINGTON 197 

ried water resumes its calm above the deep chasm 
of its bed. We are on our way once more, the 
boat trembling like a dumb creature released from 
the scourge. Pinnacles throw off their veil of 
white, the clouds part, clear — the sun looks 
through! Slopes and jutting ramparts glitter 
beneath the new-strewn web of brilliants. The 
colour of the sky is out-matched in the cerulean 
glints of ice walls ; pallid hues and shadows give 
way to tinge of damask and green, and radiant 
palisades grow warm again in the grateful shine 
of the sun. 

Above the Hotel Field at Stehekin, granite chiefs 
in their bucklers of snow challenge to assault. 
To go near them, or to try to go near to them, 
there are long canyons to be travelled on the backs 
of plodding ponies, whose feet feel out the way 
aJong ledges on the rim of shuddery cliffs, and 
forge upward to ridges where shoreless vistas un- 
fold. From the hotel grounds, the Stehekin 
River may be followed to its source among the 
high passes. Detours on either side are made 
alongside water-paths which fill steep gullies, and 
emerge from crevasses. The brooks and creeks 
which feed the Stehekin are born of the ice ; from 
Twisp Pass, Washington Pass, Cascade Pass, 
Bonanza Mountain, we can watch the melting and 
out-flowing of legions of streams which steal down 
from their " cloud-curtained cradles " to meet the 
Stehekin and go with it to the lake — and 
through the lake to the Columbia. Mountaineers 
who go up Stehekin Canyon to its head turn aside 
to see Rainbow Falls, 4 miles from the hotel, and 
especially remark at the thirtieth mile the ragged 
buttress of Horseshoe Basin which is the cirque 
of an immense glacier, fringed with waterfalls. 



198 THE TOURIST'S NORTHWEST 

Cascade Pass (5400 ft.) is reached in three days 
or a little less, and side-trips to lakes and glaciers 
consume another day before the descent is begun. 
A still longer and more spectacular excursion is 
made west of the Stehekin to Bonanza Mountain, 
Cloudy Pass and Glacier Peak (10,436 ft.), via 
the very gorgeous Railroad Creek. The goal of 
this climb is a nimbus of the Cascades, a fountain- 
head from which the range flows in radiating spurs. 
Here the summits form an ocean of glaciated bil- 
lows, and are not segregated into single towering 
beacons, or groups of beacons, as is the case in 
other mountain localities. In this area are many 
peaks without a name which vie in attaining an 
elevation of 9000 or 10,000 feet, and satellites of 
5000 to 8000 feet altitude attend them. 

A four-day trip to the glacier-infested region 
of Bridge Creek may be continued northeast from 
Stehekin Canyon to Twisp Pass and Washington 
Pass. 

The hotel management equips and provisions trail 
parties and supplies guides, at a minimum charge 
of $5 a day per person, in groups of not less than 
four. Game hunters come to Chelan for bear and 
mountain goat. The latter may sometimes be 
spied through a glass from the veranda of the 
hotel. But to hunt them with a gun or camera, 
and not with field-glass only, entails precipitous 
excursions into the wilds. That the mazama, 
which leaps and climbs as nothing else can do, 
is a traditional denizen of this region is witnessed 
by the petrographs incised on a cliff below Castle 
Mountain, at the edge of the lake. These crude 
representations of an immemorial sport depict 
huntsmen giving chase to forty or more goats 
in one herd. 



NORTHWESTERN WASHINGTON 199 

The schedule of outbound boats from Stehekin is so ar- 
ranged that passengers can make connection the same day 
at Wenatchee for Spokane and Seattle. The road to Spokane 
crosses the wheat-fields of the Big Bend country, which lies 
beneath the wide northward curve of the Columbia. Points 
of interest on the way are the novel descent down the slop- 
ing walls of the coulee near Crater and Soap Lake. We- 
natchee - Spokane, 174 mileo. 

Tourists who go from Chelan station through the Okano- 
gan Valley, east of the far-famed Methow Valley, to Oro- 
ville, 4 delightful hours by rail to the north, pass near the 
site of the first Canadian fur post in what was later the 
Territory of Washington, and can continue 40 miles across 
the British Columbia border to Keremeos, and there take 
stage Monday, Wednesday and Friday for a drive of a few 
hours to Penticton, B. C, at the foot of Okanagan Lake. 
(This is the Canadian spelling.) Steamers on the lake con- 
nect six times a week for Sicamous, on the main Canadian 
Pacific line, west of Glacier. By this route, one may go 
quite directly from Lake Chelan to the heart of the 
Canadian Rockies, with less than 24 hours' actual travel. 
At both Penticton and Sicamous there are good hotels un- 
der Canadian Pacific supervision. 

When the Great Northern links its branch Oroville -Ke- 
remeos - Coalmont with the line already built east from 
Vancouver, B. C, to Sumas Landing, a tour around a rough 
square can be made from Everett to Lake Chelan, and back 
to Everett, via Oroville, Vancouver and Bellingham. 

East of Oroville, branches of the Great Northern give 
transportation facilities to the lovely highland counties in 
which lie the Kettle and Colville River Valleys. By way of 
Marcus, Spokane is reached from the north. 



Everett — Bellingham. The San Juan Islands. 

By water, rail or motor-road, the route north 
from Everett to Bellingham (63 m.) is more than 
ordinarily attractive in its related views of moun- 
tains, heaths and sinuous islands. The confor- 
mation of our northwest coast is responsible for a 
succession of such views, majestic and pastoral, 
cloud-swept and sea-laved. The irregular shore 
which unites the two largest towns of the upper 
Sound is prolific in every kind of scenery. About 
Mt. Vernon are floor-like pastures where dairy 



200 THE TOURIST'S NORTHWEST, 

herds graze on the perennially green grass of the 
lower Skagit Valley. Some miles inland, the 
course of the Skagit River is through canyons 
where the trout leap; still further toward the in- 
terior it follows a mountain trail from beyond 
the British Columbia frontier, under the cornice 
of Mt. Baker. Steamboats, an interurban line 
from Bellingham and an automobile road from 
Mount Vernon to Burlington, Sedro Woolley, Con- 
crete and Marblemount furnish access to the di- 
versified charms of this farm and mountain val- 
ley, which has its end in the sea. 

Burlington (two-thirds of the way to Belling- 
ham) is at the junction of rail and motor-roads to 
Anacortes, a port on Fidalgo Island called the 
Gloucester of the Pacific. Salmon, cod and hali- 
but, fresh, cured and canned, form the bulk of its 
trade in fish. Its inhabitants also occupy them- 
selves with the making of ships and shingles. 

The channel plied by steamers from Everett to 
Bellingham divides Camano and Whidbey Islands, 
flows between the north end of the latter and 
Fidalgo Island, via Deception Pass, and skirts two 
other islands, Guemes and Cypress, which lie off 
the outer entrance to Bellingham Bay. 

Steamers from Seattle and Port Townsend pur- 
sue a course further to the west which threads 
the San Juan Archipelago, an aggregation of 
three main and many lesser islands occupying the 
centre of the passage between Vancouver Island 
and the coast of Washington. A tour of this 
channelled domain is usually made as an excursion 
from Bellingham, with which there is daily steamer 
connection. 

Cartographically, the galaxy of islands, islets, 
reefs and eyots, which takes its name from the 



NORTHWESTERN WASHINGTON 201 

largest unit, resembles nothing so much as a pic- 
ture puzzle about to be solved. By a slight re- 
arrangement the component parts could be made 
to fit very neatly into the angles and curves of 
their fellows. Or, looking at the map, one thinks 
of the San Juans as having formed a rocky table 
which Neptune pried open with his trident and let 
canals of sea water seep through. But stern 
geologists declare these " fertile uplifts of the 
sea " to be the summits of submerged mountains. 
When we regard the islands themselves, we see 
justification of this theory in the rounded eminence 
which thrusts upward for 2400 feet the centre of 
Orcas Island, and in the tree-clad hillocks which 
comprise other broken bits. The outlook from 
Mt. Constitution is one of uninterrupted enchant- 
ment. Good roads lace its sides and glimpse on 
the way the various features of the summit view — 
Mt. Baker and the long wall of the Cascades with 
its timbered glacis ; the Olympics and Mt. Rainier 
on the south, silhouetted in high relief against 
the shield of the sky ; the mountainous shores of 
British Columbia and Vancouver's Isle, and 
spreading all between the blue mosaic of the sea 
gemmed and garlanded with islands. Altogether, 
it is a view to make one forget vistas more stupen- 
dous, which by their very grandeur are more diffi- 
cult to comprehend. 

There are two landing-places on Orcas Island 
from which Constitution is climbed. A maze of 
water aisles wanders to other wee ports, among 
mounds steepled with firs and girdled with bright- 
pebbled beaches. Perhaps a sad-eyed cow looks 
down from an islet farm upon our passing boat ; 
beyond is a fantastic whim of granite which sug- 
gests fairy tales, or a Japanese print, or the linea- 



202 THE TOURIST'S NORTHWEST 

ments of familiar portraits. Some formations 
elicit boatman's narratives of midnight raids upon 
bands of opium smugglers who for years, with the 
aid of clandestine crannies and crafty inlets defied 
the revenue service of the United States. In the 
balmy summer-time, mermaids bask on island 
strands and nymphs haunt the greenwoods ; the 
plash of the paddle is heard on creek and lake, 
and gay groups who find in this archipelago a 
symposium of vacation delights occupy farm- 
house and inn, mansion and bungalow. 

Below Orcas Island are Lopez Island to the east, 
and San Juan Island to the west. These three 
principal islands are separated by a Y-shaped pas- 
sage. Directly opposite Lopez village is Friday 
Harbor, seat of San Juan County and in appear- 
ance much like a Maine sea port town, primly 
built, and smelling of fish and brine. Once the 
Harbor knew the bristle of arms and the men- 
ace of war. To understand why, we must recall 
the year of the boundary settlement, 1846, when 
representatives of the United States and Great 
Britain signed a treaty stipulating that the divid- 
ing-line should coincide with the 49th parallel " to 
the middle of the channel which separates the 
continent from Vancouver's Island; and thence 
southerly through the middle of said channel, and 
of Fuca's Straits, to the Pacific Ocean." Whether 
this phraseology alluded to the channel to the west 
or to the east of the San Juan Islands was not 
defined. The Americans contended during the 26 
years which followed that the treaty-makers in- 
tended Vancouver Island as the limit of British 
possessions in the Sound, and held out for the 
Canal de Haro as the division line; the British 
declared the ambiguous wording was in their fa- 



NORTHWESTERN WASHINGTON 203 

vour and claimed the San Juan Islands because 
they lay west of Rosario Strait. Settlers of both 
nationalities took up land and lived under equal 
rights pending a termination of the arguments and 
parleys which had an end, after innumerable fruit- 
less negotiations and hints of war, when in 1872 
the first emperor of the German Federation, in his 
difficult position as arbitrator, declared for the 
United States. 

The history of the controversy involves the shoot- 
ing of a British pig in an American potato patch, 
with subsequent hostilities ; discloses the tyrannical 
exactions of the Hudson's Bay Company regard- 
ing the rights of settlers in the island community ; 
relates the alternate furling and unfurling of the 
Jack and the Stars and Stripes ; the arrival of 
blue-uniformed regulars at Friday Harbor, com- 
manded by Captain Pickett, afterwards famed at 
Gettysburg, and the posting of red-coats at Roche 
Harbor, at the northern end of San Juan Island. 
General Harney and Lieutenant-General Winfield 
Scott personally investigated conditions at San 
Juan; Seward and Stanton and Grant deliberated 
upon the complicated circumstances, and in the 
end, a sovereign of high degree decided the status 
of the islands. 

Modest shafts of marble mark the location of the 
two garrisons, who though serving under antagon- 
istic flags are said to have agreed most amicably 
during their twelve years' joint occupancy of the 
disputed territory. 

Bellingham and Mt. Baker. 

Due east of Orcas Island is the gate to Belling- 
ham Bay where smaller islands sit thick as beggars 



204. THE TOURIST'S NORTHWEST 

about some frequented door. Launch and steamer 
avoid the out-thrust arms of spits and peninsulas. 
Bellingham town pre-empts a likely group of hills, 
and stretches for several miles along a steaming 
water-front. Above the highest point of back- 
ground Kulshan's summit spreads out like a 
crown. It is said that every great city is pos- 
sessed of a river. In the Northwest there is no 
town of importance that does not share the glory 
of a brooding mountain. Bellingham is the point 
of departure for the park projected as a national 
enterprise with Mt. Baker as the lode-star. In 
her capacity as guide to future multitudes who are 
expected to include in their itinerary a journey 
to this furthest-north peak of the American Cas- 
cades, Bellingham has much pride and satisfac- 
tion. Her industrious club of mountaineers is 
chiefly responsible for the publicising of this sec- 
tion of the Northwest, and has been the active 
force in the movement for a Government Park to 
surround the Shining Steep of the Noocksacks and 
the Skagits. 

Bellingham has another cause for satisfaction in 
her temperate climate and in being secluded from 
heavy storms because of her position between a 
barrier of hills and a great number of close- 
drawn islands. Summer days are cool, winter 
days rarely very cold, both seasons being affected 
by winds and currents of the sea. On two-thirds 
of the year's days there is no rain. Yet enough 
moisture is precipitated to refresh the air, quench 
dust, and mature to perfection bulbs, berries, ap- 
ples and all sorts of garden produce. The estab- 
lishment, near Bellingham, of the 160-acre Gov- 
ernment Experimental Farm for the cultivation 
of tulips, hyacinths and daffodils testifies to Jhe 



NORTHWESTERN WASHINGTON 205 

favourable climatic conditions in this northwest- 
ern corner of the United States. 

Materially, Bellingham is rich in saw-mills and 
canneries. As a commercial outlet for the great 
Puget Sound fisheries and as the nearest American 
port to Alaska, the city's yearly salmon pack rep- 
resents several million dollars in value. The bay 
is the homing-ground of a fleet of fishing-boats, 
whose operations tourists are often interested to 
watch from launches moored near the traps. A 
fish trap as customarily made in these northern 
waters consists of a lead of piling and nets which 
the salmon follow into a heart-shaped, webbed en- 
closure whose outlet is in a " pot," from which 
a tunnel empties into a " spiller." Both the lat- 
ter chambers are so confined that the fish cannot 
escape until lifted in brails, when they are flooded 
in a silvery mass onto waiting scows. The sock- 
eye salmon is the species most prized by canners 
because of its rare flavour and tint, but, controlled 
by one of the mystic laws that affect the salmon 
species, it is present on the Pacific Coast in great 
numbers but one year in every four. The run will 
occur next in 1917. An enormous catch was taken 
in the summer of 1913. 

For a day and a half at every week-end, all de- 
vices for the catching of salmon must remain in- 
active, according to a State regulation which pro- 
vides in this way for the periodical passing of the 
fish to spawning-grounds in near-by rivers. 

When the yield of traps, nets and seines is de- 
livered at the canneries, the " iron chink," a me- 
chanical substitute for the discarded Chinaman, 
receives the fish, beheads and betails them, disem- 
bowels and scrubs them more expeditiously and 
thoroughly than the deftest yellow hand could do. 



<206 THE TOURIST'S NORTHWEST 

A white-gloved crew examines and cleans each 
fish anew and feeds them into the troughs of cut- 
ting machines, where revolving blades make six or 
seven can-size portions of one salmon. The cans 
are automatically filled, the air is exhausted by 
steam, tops are adjusted by mechanical fingers, 
and the completed package lacquered to prevent 
rust. The Pacific American Fisheries, besides 
packing salmon in quantities larger than any other 
establishment in America, makes its own cans, 
boxes and labels. 

We like Bellingham because it flaunts no florid 
slogan on its banners. It claims to be neither a 
City of Destiny, a Pearl of Puget Sound, nor a 
Garden Town, but modestly asks to be considered 
the metropolis of this part of Washington, and 
to be remembered for its sunsets. Bellingham's 
prize views are the ones of the bay, the Sound and 
their islands from the Chuckanut Road and from 
Sehome Hill, on which the State Normal School is 
situated. Poems have been written and pictures 
painted of this scene at the cherished hour when 
the sun glides down its arc and dips below the 
crescent line that marks the joining of sky and 
sea. 

Just outside the city limits is Lake Whatcom 
which, with the beaches on the bay, affords varied 
amusements for this fortunately placed and pleas- 
ant-mannered little city. 

The pilgrim to Mt. Baker will find it advanta- 
geous to consult, before leaving Bellingham, the 
historical and descriptive matter which has been 
compiled for the public library by members of the 
Mt. Baker Club. Together with photographs 
and written accounts of ascents by various trails, 
there are trustworthy maps prepared at great 



NORTHWESTERN WASHINGTON 207 

pains by Mr. Easton, Historian of the Club, and 
diagrams demonstrating the extent and position 
of glaciers, craters, peaks, forests, streams and 
camps. 
The mountain marathon, noticed at length under 
" Sports — > Mountaineering," Chapter II, which 
was thrice run in the years 1911-13, utilised both 
the railroad approaches to Mt. Baker. One set 
of entrants left from Deming, the other from 
Glacier. Deming is on the Northern Pacific, 25 
miles distant from Bellingham by a roundabout 
route. A motor-road arrives at Deming by way 
of Everson and Lawrence. A direct trail leads 
from the rail station to the snow line. The best 
tenting-ground on the southwest side of the moun- 
tain is at Camp Gorman, below Sherman Peak and 
Summit Crater. Through a funnel of ice 200 feet 
deep, the dying breath of the volcano that lies 
within the cone is expelled in a sulphurous vapour 
from the basin whose outline is fixed by Sherman 
Peak on the south and by Grant Peak on the 
north. Near Camp Gorman is a high vantage- 
point from which to survey the mightily crevassed 
stream of Deming Glacier, flanked throughout its 
five-mile descent by fire-wrought cliffs and banks of 
slender trees. 

It was by the seaward face of this inspirational 
pile that the Coleman party, first explorers of the 
mountain, made their halting way in 1869. " Mr. 
Baker," of Vancouver's crew had traced its snowy 
bulk from the Strait near Dungeness, in the year 
of the Sound's discovery. Before that the Span- 
iards are said to have reported it, and generations 
in advance of the white men's coming native tribes 
had christened it Koma Kulshan, a name signify- 
ing its precipitous whiteness. 



208 THE TOURIST'S NORTHWEST 

The way from Glacier to the northwest side 
of Mt. Baker — " Kulshan " has a more sentimen- 
tal appeal — is preceded by a three-hour journey 
over the rails of the Bellingham and Northern 
Road, via Sumas on the frontier of the United 
States and Canada. Glacier is nearer to the 
mountain than Deming, but from Bellingham to 
Glacier the distance is longer than from Belling- 
ham to Deming. 

Beautiful views of forests and wild gardens en- 
hance the path up the slopes to Camp Heliotrope 
and to snow-fields and glaciers that gleam like 
tinted epaulettes on the angular shoulders of the 
mountain. Spires of lava show dark against the 
wide expanse over which the sure-footed travel 
to Grant Peak, the highest boss on the topmost 
ledge. Its altitude is variously given as 10,730 
feet, 10,827 feet and 11,250 feet. The area of 
the level summit totals 35 acres. Seven glaciers 
are conceived here, and in turn give birth to rivers 
and waterfalls whose tumult whitens canyons and 
forests in regions far below. The Mazama Falls 
flow out of the great ice-field of the same name, 
which is visible from the town of Glacier. 

Another trail from which the aspect of glaciers is 
particularly imposing leaves from Concrete in 
Skagit County, and terminates at Camp Morovits. 
Still another route is the one from Baker Lake, 
above which are visible three glaciers — Easton's, 
Park and Boulder. Beyond Mt. Baker to the 
southeast are the pinnacles of Mt. Shuksan, also 
a goal of mountaineers. 

From Bellingham, the Great Northern Railway 
and the Pacific Highway conduct to Blaine (22 
m.), " most northwesterly municipality in continen- 



NORTHWESTERN WASHINGTON 209 

tal United States," and proceed by way of this cus- 
toms port into British Columbia. Forty miles 
from Blaine is the Canadian city of Vancouver, 
reached via the same routes, across the Fraser 
River and through New Westminster. 

Customs regulations are given under " Customs," 
Chapters I and XII, and under w Motorways," in 
the same chapters. 



CHAPTER IX 

LOWER PUGET SOUND. RAINIER NATIONAL 

PARK. "THE HARBOR COUNTRY" AND 

PACIFIC BEACHES. THE COLUMBIA RIVER 

Tacoma - Rainier National Park - Olympia - Grays Harbor 

-Willapa Harbor -North Beach Resorts, Moclips to 

Ilwaco. The Columbia from Ilwaco to Pasco. 



Tacoma. 1 

Tacoma has a dozen sobriquets bestowed by 
prophets and admirers. Let another be added: 
the City of the Mountain. No one who has sailed 
Puget Sound will ask what mountain. The Moun- 
tain. The unification of mountain attributes, the 
be all and end all of mountainism — the Indians' 
" Mighty Snow," standing tall above the sea in 
placid grandeur apart from others of its kind, 
mothering within its specious confines greater 
bulk and spread of ice than all the alps of Swit- 
zerland massed together. To such a transcend- 
ent mountain is Tacoma the port. 

John Williams' book, a compendium of every- 
thing that pertains to the colossus, quotes from 
the Atlantic Monthly of November, 1876, the state- 
ment of General Stevens, who first climbed it: 
" Tak-ho-ma or Tahoma among the Yakimas, 
Klickitats, Puyallups, Nisquallys and allied tribes 

i For routes by rail, motor-road and steamer, see " Trans- 
portation," Chapter I, and " Seattle - Tacoma," page 182. 
See also " Routes across the Cascades to the Columbia 
Basin," Chapter VII. 

210 



LOWER SOUND. SOUTHWEST COUNTIES 211 

is the generic term for mountain, used precisely as 
we use the word ' Mount, 5 as Takhoma Wynatchie, 
or Mount Wynatchie. But they all designate 
Rainier simply as Takhoma, The Mountain." The 
Indian name was first transcribed to the written 
page by Theodore Winthrop, author of The Canoe 
and the Saddle, who visited Puget Sound in 1853 
and heard from the Siwashes 2 their term for the 
mountain divinity. Winthrop's record was pub- 
lished in 1863. Five years later the name was 
given to the new townsite on Commencement Bay. 

In Book Two of Vancouver's Voyages, the Brit- 
ish navigator, who seems to have left nothing visible 
un-christened, wrote of " the round snowy moun- 
tain . . . which after my friend, Rear Admiral 
Rainier, I distinguished by the name of Mount 
Rainier." 

The Federal Geographical Board has officially 
determined that Rainier shall be the map name of 
the peak the Indians called Tacoma — a decision 
unsupported by precedence of time, or patriotism, 
or descriptive fitness. Vancouver's friend was an 
active antagonist against the colonials in the Revo- 
lutionary War. Less than a decade after peace 
was made, the explorer possessed this land for his 
British sovereign, and in large-handed manner 
complimented his superiors and companions by 
labelling with their names all the wonders that he 
saw. The name he gave the country adjacent to 
Puget Sound — New Georgia — was changed at 
its occupation by Americans to Washington. 
Just as reasonably might the aboriginal appella- 
tion of Washington's grandest summit have been 
officially restored. 

The goodly site of Tacoma City provides, like a 

2 A corruption of the French sauvages. 



212 THE TOURIST'S NORTHWEST 

well-designed theatre, for an unhampered view of 
the stage on which peaks, ranges, islands and a 
resplendent gulf of the sea are the chief figurantes. 
Not only is the elevation considerable, as any one 
will testify who has climbed Eleventh Street from 
A Street to the Court House or Library, or ram- 
bled over Prospect Hill, but a peninsula shaped like 
a boar's snout carries far into the Sound a solid 
rank of wharves, high buildings, shops, parks and 
bowered homes which command uncommon vistas 
on every side. 

Steamship lines and railways converge below the 
centre of the town. From the passenger docks, a 
long slope leads upward through a gate formed by 
the City Hall and the Northern Pacific Office Build- 
ing to Pacific Avenue, the main thoroughfare. 
The round-topped Union Station and the depot of 
the Chicago, Milwaukee and St. Paul Road are 
south of Eleventh Street, which is the principal 
commercial highway running at right angles to Pa- 
cific Avenue. The Tacoma Hotel, on a bluff at the 
edge of the harbour, looks down upon the activities 
of Commencement Bay, beyond which the Mountain 
rises, apparently from the shore. In this deep- 
water haven, protected from all the winds that blow 
by a fortunate disposal of islands and high penin- 
sulas, vessels sail to widely scattered ports with 
wheat, flour, ore, lumber and fish in their cavernous 
holds. Tacoma claims for many of her plants the 
largest area or production " in the world," " in 
the United States," or west of a given point. 
Wheat elevators and the gaseous shaft of a smelter 
chimney are the most striking features of her 
water-front silhouette. 

The city's growth dates from the completion of 
the Northern Pacific Railroad's transcontinental 




CHELAN CANYON NORTHERN WASHINGTON 



LOWER SOUND. SOUTHWEST COUNTIES 213 

system early in the '80's. Its population which 
was then 1098 has increased a hundred-fold. Out- 
distanced now beyond dispute by Seattle and Spo- 
kane, Tacoma has relaxed her agitated race to be 
top city of Washington, has convalesced from 
fevered " booms," and settled into an even pace 
much more conducive to stable prosperity than the 
jerky going of the past. 

Tacoma has long had pride in its great High 
School, gabled like a French chateau and pictur- 
esquely situated on a rise overlooking the bay. 
In recent years, the concrete benches of an open- 
air auditorium have been constructed about a 
horse-shoe field, where games, festivals and mass 
meetings attract on special occasions a concourse 
of spectators and performers equal to half the 
population of the city. As the cost of the amphi- 
theatre was borne by the citizens, through popular 
subscription, it is in every sense a municipal insti- 
tution. 

In the vicinity of the stadium, and among the un- 
dulated heights back from the water are types of 
houses and gardens which the visitor comes to re- 
gard as characteristic of this ever-blooming and 
architecturally tradition-free Northwest. Effects 
winsome and stately, cosy and large are gained by 
the use of native materials, natural terraces and 
depressions, and individual tastes in home-build- 
ing on Tacoma's hilly, flower-hedged streets. 
Roadways of perpetually smooth surface link the 
various residential districts with public pleasure- 
grounds whose woods and lawns and horticultural 
displays are under the supervision of a particularly 
efficient and imaginative board of commissioners. 

Within walking distance of the commercial centre 
is Wright Park, an arboretum of 28 acres contain- 



214 THE TOURIST'S NORTHWEST 

ing trees of 300 distinct varieties, both native and 
alien. Other parks depend for their charm upon 
hilly glades and rustic canyons interspersed with 
artificial pools. Half the city's park area of 1100 
acres is included between the banks of a strip 
of land called Point Defiance Park, which thrusts 
a sylvan arm two miles into the Sound and pro- 
vides cliffs, baths, beaches, sport fields, floral and 
zoological exhibits and acres of primitive forests 
for the enjoyment of Tacoma and its guests. 
Park automobiles are for hire at low rates, but 
those who have leisure to do so prefer to thread 
the woods and to wander from rose arbour to buf- 
falo paddock and lively shore by winding foot- 
ways. 

Gasoline omnibuses and a comprehensive electric 
car system expedite an acquaintance with the city 
and its purlieus. Puyallup (9 m. east) is visited 
for its berry fields, which produce several hundred 
carloads of berries a year, for its view of Rainier 
— Tacoma across a wide savannah, and for its in- 
teresting Indian Reservation, where a shell-heap 
laid open by the Jesup North Pacific Expedition 
some years ago revealed typical deposits of char- 
coal, burned stones, clam, mussel and scallop 
shells intermixed with crude implements fashioned 
by pre-historic artisans from the bones and horns 
of animals and from bits of smelted iron. 

The town of Puyallup is founded on the Ezra 
Meeker homestead, where as a youth of twenty- 
two this early believer in the future of the fertile 
Sound country unyoked his continental ox-train 
and built himself a cabin. A little over a half cen- 
tury later, in 1906, he set forth again in bullock- 
drawn prairie-wagon to mark the path of the Pa- 
cific pioneers with appropriate stones. This 



LOWER SOUND. SOUTHWEST COUNTIES 215 

" Monument Expedition," which consumed eleven 
months and traversed 2600 miles of prairie, desert 
and mountain, was undertaken by Ezra Meeker 
in his seventy-sixth year " to perpetuate the iden- 
tity of the trail ... to honour the memories of 
true heroes, and to kindle in the breast of the 
rising generation a flame of patriotic sentiment." 
We can imagine with what ecstatic furor such a 
pilgrimage by so old and ardent a patriot would 
have been heralded in some other countries, in ap- 
preciative France, for instance. Yet scattered 
communities treated coldly and refused the loyal 
wish for a simple shaft to blaze this epic road, 
others tolerated the request and indifferently sub- 
scribed the dollars necessary, while a few towns and 
villages conceived the expedition in its heroic light 
and despatched envoys to meet the patriarch, to 
welcome him, and to conduct him with the honour 
due his age and mission to some spot where ground 
had been broken for a memorial, or where one had 
already been raised in advance of his coming. A 
strangely unsympathetic country, this, to all such 
enterprises, and one generally unresponsive to true 
patriotic appeal touching the lives and deeds of its 
Great Adventurers, in respect to settlement and 
exploration. High lights of chivalry we recognise 
and acclaim. But our Anglo-Saxon imagination 
fails when we are asked to picture the suffering 
of arid trails and tedious ascents, the loss of goods 
and cattle, and the despoiling of families by ex- 
haustion and disease, whose goal was a new land 
to be wrested from the wilderness and peopled for 
the empire. 

The river valleys adjacent to Tacoma, "the 
Puyallup, Stuck, White, Ohop, Muck and Clover," 
grow famous fruits, cabbages, and celery in soil en- 



216 THE TOURIST'S NORTHWEST 

riched in ages past by the expulsion of ash from 
the Rainier volcano. In its final demonstration 
a pointed cap was blown off, which in all prob- 
ability reached nearly 2000 feet above the present 
summit. As seen from the Puyallup River, the 
pyramid shows plainly this truncation, the cupola 
at its centre being a " dune of snow " drifted 
about two volcanic basins not so old nor so large as 
the main crater. Topographers have made half 
a dozen conflicting pronouncements as to the 
elevation of the wind-driven apex of the moun- 
tain. A geological survey made by the Gov- 
ernment some years ago gave Rainier precedence 
over Mt. Whitney, California, by 20 feet. Rainier 
was then acclaimed the highest mountain in North 
America, excluding Alaska, with an elevation of 
14,526 feet. A few years later another compu- 
tation lopped 16S feet from this estimate, and 
Rainier dropped to second place as regards tech- 
nical altitude. The last survey, that of 1913, 
fixes the elevation at 14,408 feet. To the unstable 
quality of the flattened crest is undoubtedly due 
the contradictory reckonings. Rainier's founda- 
tion rests on a plain approximately at sea level. 
Even ridges extend north and south from which 
the furrowed dome is raised as an apse above its 
transepts, or as a fane from among low-roofed 
cloisters. 

The Rainier National Forest and the Park it en- 
closes may be approached over a Northern Pacific 
branch by way of Puyallup and Orting. Fairfax, 
41 miles from Tacoma and 65 miles from Seattle, 
is the terminus of the line. Situated on the Car- 
bon River, it is 9 miles distant from the northwest 
corner of the Park. Saddle-horses are used into 



LOWER SOUND. SOUTHWEST COUNTIES 217 

the Reserve, as there is no wagon-road from this 
point up the Mountain. Neither is there any hotel 
on this north side, but tents and equipment are 
packed over a trail to Spray Park, a grassy ex- 
panse, watered by streams that issue from Carbon 
and Mowich Glaciers in rushing creeks and water- 
falls. 

South of Tacoma is American Lake with a mili- 
tary camp-ground on its shores. Near-by is the 
Tacoma motor-track and a golf club whose links 
usurp part of an elysian field which comprises 
square miles of level sward planted by Nature 
with oaks, shrubs and cone-bearing trees in perfect 
similitude of a park artfully planned and immacu- 
lately cared for. Perhaps as famous a view of the 
" Great Snow " as may be seen in the environs of 
Tacoma is the one from across Spanaway Lake, 
which beautifies this lovely prairie-land and holds 
upon its mirroring surface a perfect image of the 
city's guardian, an image which never fades ex- 
cept when mists or darkness shut it out, or rain 
rimples the reflection. Other aspects of the Moun- 
tain smite us with its might and its significance 
among all the mountains of the universe. This 
two-fold presentment from the banks of Lake 
Spanaway is the lyric view — shows the" virginal 
slopes in their most lenient posture, ringed at the 
base by poetic trees and strands. 

Rainier National Park. 

This way, over the prairie park and past the lake 
goes the automobile road to the National Reserve. 
The rails of the Tacoma Eastern are laid in the 
same direction. Near Eatonville, they meet and 
inter-twine, until at Ashford, the iron road halts 



218 THE TOURIST'S NORTHWEST 

and the other pursues the Nisqually through the 
southwest gate of the Park to the Inn at Longmire 
Springs, and still further to the river's icy source 
and to Paradise Valley. 

A train leaves the Chicago, Milwaukee and St. 
Paul station morning and afternoon over the Ta- 
coma Eastern, arriving at Ashford (55 m.) in 2^4 
hours and 3 hours, respectively. An auto stage 
conveys passengers to the Inn, 13 miles beyond, 7 
of the miles being within the Park gates. The in- 
clusive round trip fare from Tacoma to Longmire 
Springs is $5, to Narada Falls, $7, to Paradise 
Valley, $8. Vehicles and saddle-horses are avail- 
able for other tours within the Park by road and 
trail. A train returns from Ashford about three 
in the afternoon and nine in the morning. A hur- 
ried excursion by the rail route can be made from 
Tacoma and back in a day, which will give a cur- 
sory view of the attractions most advertised. 

Besides the De Lape motor service from Seattle 
and Tacoma to the Park, several garages in Ta- 
coma send cars regularly during the months June 
to October over the splendid forest highway, the 
trip consuming three and a half hours to the Na- 
tional Park Inn at Longmire Springs (63 m.), and 
costing from $7.50 to $10.50 per seat, according 
to the mileage covered in the Park. The county 
boulevard runs south from Tacoma through the 
wooded levels of Ferndale, Parkland, Brookdale 
and Spanaway, passes rustic inns and gradually 
assumes gentle grades and inclines until the Nis- 
qually River is reached near La Grande, where 
power is generated for the municipal utilities of 
Tacoma. The river roars in its bed far below a 
curving and unfendcd cliff road that is exciting 
but not dangerous. One's interest in the Moun- 



LOWER SOUND. SOUTHWEST COUNTIES 219 

tain, which appears to heighten as we draw near, 
is divided with massive trunks of towering fir and 
cedar which shadow the highway and bound end- 
less pictures of vales narrow and broad, and of the 
monarch who is about to give us audience. 

Through the rural valley fantastically yclept Suc- 
cotash, the road proceeds 6 miles beyond Ashford 
to the log-pillared portal of the 200,000-acre do- 
main set aside by Congress in 1899 " for the benefit 
and enjoyment of the people." At the lodge by 
the entrance, all who visit the Park are required 
to register. 3 Seven miles beyond, one comes by an 

3 Automobile permits are issued in Ashford at the superin- 
tendent's office, and validated at the Park gate on payment 
of $5, which fee is demanded alike for one round trip in 
the Park, or for any period ending in December of a cur- 
rent year. Cars and motor-cycles may use the Government 
road from 6 a. m. to 9 p. m. between the western en- 
trance and Longmire Springs and from 6 a. m. to 9 :30 p. m. 
between the Springs and Nisqually Glacier. Paragraphs 4, 
5 and 8 of the Park road regulations stipulate that horses 
shall at all times be given the right of way and the inner 
side of the road, automobilists and cyclists being more- 
over required to stop and to cut out their motors if so 
requested by drivers of horse vehicles, pack trains, etc. 

Round trip rates for transportation by automobile or horse 
stage in the Park are as follows: From the Inn at Long- 
mire Springs to Nisqually Glacier (5 m. each way), $1; to 
Narada Falls, $2; to Camp of the Clouds at Paradise Valley 
(15 m. each way), $3. Saddle-horses can be had at $2.50 
per day, or $2 for single trips to Paradise Valley, Indian 
Henry's Hunting-grounds, or Van Trump Park. Packers 
and horses may be hired by campers who bring their own 
equipment. Where a charge is made for parking automo- 
biles it does not exceed $1 per day of 24 hours. 

Terms for room and meals at the National Park Inn, 
managed by the Chicago, Milwaukee and St. Paul Railroad 
under concession from the Government, are as follows: 
American plan, $4.50 per day for one person in a room; 
one person in a tent per day, $4. For room alone, the 
charge is $2, and a tent $1.50 per day. Breakfast and 
luncheon, 75 cents each, dinner $1. 

Rates at Longmire's Hotel, at Reese's Camp in Paradise 
Valley, and the camp of Indian Henry's Hunting-ground 



220 THE TOURIST'S NORTHWEST 

artful and beautiful road to the hamlet of huts, 
tents and home-like hotels which surround the min- 
eral springs developed by James Longmire, who 
between the years 1861 and 1864 hewed the first 
paths up these timbered flanks through a claim 
owned by his family before the National Forest 
Reserve of 2,000,000 acres was set apart. The 
boundaries of this original grant contain the more 
recently created Park, a third of whose 300 square 
miles is occupied by the Mountain. 

No longer is Takhoma " distant from human in- 
quisitiveness as a marble goddess from human 
loves." The author of Canoe and Saddle, looking 
on the peak sixty years ago, pronounced it " royal- 
est " of all the mountains from California to 
Fraser's River, and declared no foot of man had 
ever sullied its pure snows. The Indians, he 
knew, dared not encroach beyond the rough timbers 
of the snow line the hallowed precincts of this fire 
god, this ermined tyrant, this octopus of ice and 
Midas of hiaqua which they worshipped as an all- 
mastering spirit. In 1833, Dr. Fraser Tolmie, a 
young Hudson's Bay surgeon, lately arrived from 
England at Fort Nisqually, made a trip to the 
lower slopes of Rainier by way of the " Poyallipa 
River " for the purpose of gathering herbs, but 
did not ascend beyond the flowered valleys, though 
it is said he related having glimpsed the ice-beds 
above him. The first authentic record that gla- 
ciers existed within the territory of the United 

vary from $2.50 to $3, American plan. Single meals and 
bed in camp cost 75 cents. 

A guide to the summit of Rainier may be employed by a 
party of eight at a fixed price of $60. A person claiming 
the exclusive services of a guide pays $25, a charge of $5 
being made for each additional member of the party up to 
the limit of eight. 



LOWER SOUND. SOUTHWEST COUNTIES 221 

States is credited to Lieutenant Kautz, who in 
1857 was stationed at Fort Steilacoon and made an 
excursion to the region now known as Van Trump 
Park. P. B. Van Trump and General Hazard 
Stevens, climbing by the south side, reached the 
snow hill on the summit in August, 1870, and 
spent the night in the middle crater, alternately 
frozen by the walls of their lofty bed-chamber and 
steamed by the hot spurts of a volcanic radiator. 
Two months later, two Government surveyors 
achieved Columbia Crest (14,408 feet). One of 
them, S. F. Emmons, recorded the view therefrom 
as he looked down " an unbroken slope of nearly 
10,000 feet to the head of the White River. . . . 
The system of glaciers and the streams which flowed 
from them lay spread out as on a map. . . . Look- 
ing to the more distant country, the whole stretch 
of Puget Sound, seeming like a pretty little lake 
embowered in green, could be seen in the northwest, 
beyond which the Olympic Mountains extended out 
into the Pacific Ocean. The Cascade Mountains, 
lying dwarfed at our feet, could be traced north- 
ward into British Columbia, and southward into 
Oregon, while above them rose the ghost-like forms 
of our companion volcanoes. To the eastward the 
eye ranged for hundreds of miles over chain on 
chain of mountain ridges which gradually disap- 
peared in the dim blue distance." 

This is the prospect which in clear weather com- 
pensates the rugged ascent from the east over 
White Glacier, or from the south by way of Para- 
dise Valley (5500 feet) to the crags above Nis- 
qually Glacier, across Cowlitz Cleaver, up the 
shelving ledges of treacherous Gibraltar, and over 
the snow to Crater Peak and the Crest. But only 
those may make these expeditions who have exer« 



332 THE TOURIST'S NORTHWEST 

cised lung and limb in inferior ordeals and who, well 
practised, accoutred and guided, are equal to a 
ten-hour trek over moraine, sharp-angled rock, 
cleft ice and glaring neve to the platform at the 
top, which is three miles broad and is raised two 
and three-quarter miles toward the vault of heaven. 
This "majestical roof fretted with golden fire" 
is not for the ease-loving tourist who imbibes his 
scenery from train, pony-back or rubber-shod car. 
For him the Park holds other wonders, — crooked 
trails through templed woods, iridescent grottoes 
and rivers of ice, looking-glass pools that visualise 
the face of the Mountain, waterfalls that shower 
their foaming tulle down terrace and cliff-side, and 
pied meadows where humming-birds light and phlox 
and lily nod to ponderous glaciers. 

The gabled windows of the Inn and its hospitable 
verandas offer vistas enough for some, — tranquil 
souls content to view a three-mile mountain from 
a rocking-chair and breathe at leisure the fir- 
scented ozone. But the novelty of motoring to 
the front door of a glacier over a smooth moun- 
tain road lures the majority of the 35,000 visitors 
who annually enter the Park to the melting wall 
of the great Nisqually ice pack. 

East of the wondrous highway built by Rick- 
secker and his aides is Eagle Peak, from which, at 
an altitude of 6000 feet, one may sight all the tur- 
baned sheiks of the Cascades from Canada to the 
Columbia, if he be minded to climb a three-mile 
path from the Inn. 

A bevy of waterfalls is visited on the way to Nis- 
qually, either from the road or from the pony 
trail. Arrived at the nozzle of the glacier, we 
mark the receding wall of a vast grinding body 
which heads below Gibraltar, " up-standing rem- 



LOWER SOUND. SOUTHWEST COUNTIES 223 

nant of Rainier's cone," and here we see the river 
born that for so many miles kept beside us on our 
way up the mountain. A diagram of the peak's 
glacial system, which has an area nearly 50 square 
miles in extent, shows the crater as the hub of a 
dozen curving spokes of snow-covered ice, each of 
which sends off rivers and water-falls from its ex- 
tremity. Between the slow-moving glaciated deeps 
are wedge-shaped valleys and hollowed cirques 
eroded by receded or entirely extinct glaciers. 
The Nisqually Glacier, visible from several coigns 
of vantage, is a concrete lesson to the amateur in 
varied ice forms — glacial tables, crevasses, mo- 
raines, domes, each of which has vivid exemplifi- 
cation on its acres-wide and miles-long expanse. 
Glaciers, according to a Government treatise, are 
found " where mountains rise in the paths of warm 
humid winds. 9 ' The year's snows pack into dense 
stratified ice which at a depth of a thousand feet 
is weighty enough to acquire movement. The 
avalanche of ice bearing down the granite slopes, 
carrying with it boulders and earth and piling up 
debris, undermines the very structure of the moun- 
tain. In its glacial carvings, as in its volcanic 
forms, the mount called Rainier is of the highest 
geologic import. Every conceivable phase of 
glacier life is displayed in the ice-paved circuit be- 
low its crown. Nisqually's nearest associate on 
the east is Paradise Glacier, especially visited for 
caverns that are walled and arched with ice tinted 
like the rainbow. Next follows the great Cowlitz 
Glacier at 8000 feet elevation, the most character- 
istic example of the Alpine type of glacier on 
Rainier's slopes, according to an eminent geolo- 
gist. The largest of the ice bodies is the White, 
which feeds the White River, flowing northeast 



224 THE TOURIST'S NORTHWEST 

toward the Cascades. In turn, continuing around 
the circle, follows Winthrop, notable for its inter- 
glacial tables and terraces. Carbon Glacier, 
reached by rail from the north, is included in the 
trip to the forests and cascades of Spray Park, 
and rules a region of valleys and snow-fields, talus 
heaps and tumbling rocks. To the west is the two- 
armed Mowich Glacier, also called the Willis, and 
one of the most interesting of all for its combina- 
tion of primary features. North and South Ta- 
homa are divided from each other and from their 
neighbours, Puyallup and Kautz, by ground-out 
barriers of rock, which indicate the approximate 
height of the mountain's sides in its pre-glacial 
period. Between Kautz and Nisqually is a pla- 
teau which extends high up toward Crater Peak 
and forms the pleasaunce named for P. B. Van 
Trump, already mentioned as having climbed to the 
summit by this southern route nearly fifty years 
ago. Some of the glaciers named are connected 
by trails, and new paths are projected. A road 
encircling the mountain is a future possibility. 

The Mountaineers on their 1915 Outing made the 
circuit of the Mountain at or near snow line. 
Volume VIII of The Mountaineer, published at 
Seattle, is dedicated to the forests, the geology, 
the surveys and accents of Rainier. 

An amazing road is the one which doubles back 
from Nisqually to the immaculate stream of Na- 
rada Falls, formed by the Paradise River leaping 
a 187-foot ledge, and soars by dizzy, serpentine 
grades above the Nisqually's gorge to Paradise 
Valley, which is as high again toward the summit 
as the Inn at the Springs. Here on the very torso 
of the Mountain is spread a flowery heath several 
thousand acres wide, whose rolling turf is broken 



LOWER SOUND. SOUTHWEST COUNTIES 225 

here and there by peaceful groves which tinkle with 
brooks and falls and offer a pastoral retreat from 
the domination of the Mountain. " Above the 
forests," says John Muir, who was among the first 
to know these snow-bordered parks, " there is a 
zone of the loveliest flowers, fifty miles in circuit, 
and nearly two miles wide, so closely planted and 
luxurious that it seems as if nature, glad to make 
an open space between woods so dense and ice so 
deep, were economising the precious ground and 
trying, to see how many of her darlings she can get 
together in one mountain wreath — daisies, ane- 
mones, columbine, erythroniums, larkspurs, — 
among which we wade knee-deep and waist-deep, 
the bright corollas in myriads touching petal to 
petal. Altogether this is the richest subalpine 
garden I have ever found, a perfect flower elysium." 

If one stays in camp at Paradise Valley, he will 
have time to study the patterns of this floral car- 
pet wrought in butter-cups and heather, valerian, 
fire-weed, snow lilies and asters, and folded among 
glades and rounded furrows beneath the white 
image of Takhoma. 

From Paradise it is not a far climb to Alta Vista 
which looks into the basin of Nisqually's slow melt- 
ing mass where it flanges from the nucleus of its 
snows and swerves down the mountain-side. It is 
only when one stays a while with the Mountain that 
awe in its presence fades and one begins to under- 
stand its moods and lineaments, expressive of 
kingly wrath in storm, fair as Aurora at the dawn, 
rose-flushed or steel-blue, repelling or gracious in 
the changing lights and temper of the day. Some- 
times it permits the familiarity of tobogganers who 
by the simple expedient of sitting upon its crusty 
surface are whirled down a snow chute with no 



226 THE TOURIST'S NORTHWEST 

steering-gear but an alpenstock, amid shouts and 
shrill screams of delight. 

Excursions are made from Paradise Valley to 
Sluiskin Falls and to the "javelin peaks " of the 
Tatoosh Range, southeast of Reese's Camp. 
From Longmire Springs, favourite trails lead to 
Van Trump Park, and across the Cowlitz River to 
the Ramparts. Below this rocky wall whose sum- 
mit commands a spacious view of indescribable 
beauty, nestles the valley known as the hunting 
range of Indian Henry, an ancient Nimrod whose 
demesne comprised fir-tufted meadows and lakes of 
melted snow on whose bosom lay the cameo of the 
Mountain. Here one may enjoy tent life under 
congenial auspices, discovering each day a new 
beauty in the steep fields of the twin Tahoma gla- 
ciers which meet the green line of the Hunting- 
ground, surprising the curious peak of St. Helens 
as it peers down from the clouds to the floor of the 
upland, and making pilgrimages by pony trail to a 
dozen points from which to gain more intimate 
knowledge of our Mountain of Mountains. 

Retracing the way to Longmire's and over the Govern- 
ment and county roads to Ashford, the traveller may con- 
tinue by rail from Ashford to Mineral Lake, via Park 
Junction, and from Mineral Lake, an agreeable resort 
with unpretending accommodation, to Morton, at the end 
of the Tacoma eastern track. From this point auto stages 
run to towns in the Cowlitz and Chehalis River Valleys. 
Motorists pursue the same route from Elbe, near Park 
Junction, over the last lap of the National Parks Trans- 
continental Highway, which begins at Chicago and touches 
the Pacific at Willapa Harbor. The automobile road lies 
through Mineral, Morton, Alpha, Chehalis and Centralia, 
where junction is made with the Pacific Highway, and with 
the main rail line, Seattle - Tacoma - Portland. Lateral 
rail and motor-roads branch at Chehalis Junction from 
these trunk lines to South Bend on Willapa Harbor; and 
from Centralia to Aberdeen and Hoquiam on Grays Har- 
bor, a few miles north of Willapa Harbor. 




J. W. Sandison 

DEMING GLACIER, MT. BAKER, NEAR BELLINGHAM., 
WASHINGTON 



LOWER SOUND. SOUTHWEST COUNTIES 227 

From Centralia, there is also connection by rail and 
motor-road with Olympia, at the foot of Puget Sound. 

Tacoma - Olympia, by Northern Pacific Railway, 43 
miles. Puget Sound steamers leave Tacoma thrice daily 
for Olympia. Single trip 75 cents, return $1.25. A morn- 
ing steamer comes through from Seattle and returns there 
the same day, via Tacoma. 

A section of the Pacific Highway 31 miles in length gives 
motor communication between Tacoma and Olympia. The 
road skirts Steilacoom and American Lakes on the way. 

Olympia. 

When General Isaac Stevens, first Governor of 
Washington Territory, arrived at Olympia in 1853 
he found it " a rain-drenched mud-hole." The 
cities which neighbour the capital to-day were not 
then in existence. A mile south of the harbour, a 
small company of pioneers had cleared land for a 
village first called New Market and later Turn- 
water, in the year 1845. The settlement which 
grew up about rude mills for grinding grain and 
sawing lumber was the first one founded by Ameri- 
cans on the shores of Puget Sound. There had 
been an American mission station on the Nisqually 
River a few years before. Still earlier, in 1833, 
Nisqually House, half-way post between the Col- 
umbia and the Fraser, had been erected on the 
shore of the Sound by the Hudson's Bay Company. 
Representatives of the latter organised in 1838 
the Puget Sound Agricultural Company, with a 
capital stock of £200,000 and headquarters in 
London. 

Soon after Simmons and his co-settlers began 
their home-making at Tumwater, other families 
occupied land on and near Budd Inlet, which forms 
the harbour of Olympia. As these were the parent 
communities of western Washington it was logical 
that the territorial capital should be established in 



228 THE TOURIST'S NORTHWEST 

their midst. Washington became a separate ter- 
ritory in March, 1853. It was first proposed that 
" the portion of Oregon Territory lying north of 
the Columbia River and west of the great northern 
branch thereof, should be organized . . . under 
the name and style of the Territory of Columbia." 
As sentiment in the senate was against the latter 
name, it was suggested that the new sub-division 
bear the surname of the country's first President. 
An amendment, later withdrawn, suggested Wash- 
ingtonia instead of Washington, to avoid con- 
fusion with the nation's capital. In February, 
1854, the inaugural assembly met at Olympia to 
formulate laws affecting the new territory's popu- 
lation of 4000 people. A generation later the 
little town situated on the lower reaches of the 
Sound became the seat of State government. 

The original house of the Governor is especially 
remarked by visitors because Grant and Sheridan 
were entertained there during tours to the Coast. 
The New England Inn also has its memories of 
illustrious guests at ball and banquet in the days 
when Olympia was not only the capital, but the 
sole town north of the Columbia having any pre- 
tensions to social distinction. Capital Place, fac- 
ing the inlet, is graced by a dignified State House, 
with auxiliary buildings of new design. The town 
has a contented, retrospective air furthered by 
rows of pleasant homes withdrawn from the high- 
way to the shelter of wide shade-trees. When on 
pleasure bent the townsfolk seek the park at Priest 
Point, on the outskirts. 

Olympia's name is everywhere associated with the 
oyster native to Pacific waters, a small strong- 
flavoured bivalve held in high esteem by dwellers 
on the Coast, though assuredly not to be compared 



LOWER SOUND. SOUTHWEST COUNTIES 229 

with the product of the Gulf of Mexico or Eastern 
beds. As a shipping point for the Harbor 
Country to the west, Olympia annually despatches 
many hundred thousand pounds of oysters, clams 
and shrimps. 

Neighbouring excursions may be made by road 
to Tumwater and the falls of the Des Chutes River 
of Washington, and to the historic site of the 
Hudson's Bay post, at the junction of the Nis- 
qually with the Sound. Half a dozen lakes are 
within a radius of 13 miles. Steamers run out 
Puget Inlet to suburban islands, and to Shelton, 
connected by auto stage with Union City on 
Hood Canal. By the water route or over the 
Olympic Highway, Lake Cushman (46 m.) is 
accessible. The motor-road continues north along 
the Canal and past Quilcene to Port Townsend, 
Port Angeles, Lake Crescent and Mora, as de- 
scribed under the heading " Olympic Peninsula," 
Chapter Seven. 

The Harbor Country and Pacific Beaches. 

The automobile road through Tumwater reaches 
to Grays Harbor towns and to beaches on the 
Pacific. A westward cut-off of the Northern Paci- 
fic Railway joins Okympia to Gate (19 m.). Gate 
to Aberdeen through the Chehalis Valley, 41 miles. 
On the south, Olympia has connection by rail and 
Pacific Highway with Centralia (30 m.). From 
Centralia, midway between Seattle and Portland, 4 
the Northern Pacific proceeds along the north 
bank of the Chehalis River, and the Oregon — Wash- 

4 Centralia - Portland, 91 m., by v\ T ay of Kelso at the 
mouth of the Cowlitz River, Kalama on the Columbia, and 
Vancouver, Wash. See under " Megler — Kalama — Kelso 
— Castle Rock — St. Helens," this chapter. 



230 THE TOURIST'S NORTHWEST 

ington Railroad along the south bank to Grays 
Harbor. 

The valley of the Chehalis is a refreshing high- 
way to the sea, fertile in farms and prolific in 
mighty forests. Eighty inches of rainfall in an 
average year, and bottom lands and logged-off 
acres respond richly to the cultivation of agricul- 
turists and fruit-growers. Grays Harbor County 
is one of the most densely timbered regions of all 
the State, fir, spruce, cedar, hemlock and pine 
trees comprising the major part of its wealth. 
The ocean contributes salmon, oysters, crabs and 
clams to swell the list of the county's resources. 
Aberdeen, at the head of Grays Harbor, a wide 
bay discovered in 1792 by the skipper of the 
Columbia Rediviva, is a manufacturing, trade and 
shipping port of increasing importance in the 
world of lumber and fish. Hoquiam, 4 miles to 
the west, shares the advantages of its big sister 
in opportunities for lumber manufacture, ship- 
building and fish export. 

In January, 1916, the death was reported at 
Hoquiam of Schickulash Pete, last of the Grays 
Harbor Indian " slaves. " Born in 1806, and vet- 
eran of tribal wars which took place seventy- 
five years ago, the grizzled aboriginal was said 
to be the oldest man in the Northwest. In 1840 he 
made one of an invading canoe party which came 
up the coast from the Columbia River to attack 
the Harbor Indians. During the battle which 
followed, he with many others was taken captive 
and held in slavery until set free some fifteen years 
later by the treaty of Governor Stevens with the 
tribes about the mouth of the Chehalis River. 1A 
companion in captivity, John Kettle, died not long 
ago at the age of 105. 



LOWER SOUND. SOUTHWEST COUNTIES 231 

A wonderful mountain playground has been 
opened to the north of Hoquiam by the completion 
of a western leg of the Olympic Highway, 45 miles 
in length, which has its end at Lake Quiniault, a 
beautiful body of water hemmed on three sides by 
the Olympics and situated between the Humptulips 
Valley and the sea-bordered Reserve of the Quini- 
ault Indians. The last half of the motor-ride is 
through a sunless concourse of superb trees. 
Several camps and log hotels serve as bases for ex- 
cursions into the Olympics, which may be extended 
to Mt. Baldy and to the crest of the range water- 
shed. The lake is fed by the Upper Quiniault 
River which flows through a sheltered valley of 
surprising productivity. The lower Quiniault, 
outlet of the lake, is a riotous stream which below 
the Indian village of Taholah, puts to test the 
skill of native canoeists. For a price venturous 
tourists are conveyed in dug-outs over a six-hour 
race-course of riffles and " white water " to the 
rocky beach above Point Grenville, on the verge 
of the Pacific. j 

A less exciting route to the same shore is by way 
of the railroad north from Aberdeen and Hoquiam 
to Pacific Beach and Moclips, the latter resorts 
being favourite summer rendezvous for vacationists 
from the lower Sound and Grays Harbor cities. I 

Across the river from Aberdeen, a spur of the 
Northern Pacific extends to the southern bay of 
the wedge-shaped harbour. Bay City, the ter- 
minal station, is a part of the American Pacific 
Whaling Company, where leviathans of the sea 
are towed in and dissected by various interesting 
operations. The whales of the North Pacific in- 
clude humpbacks, finbacks, sulphur bottoms and 
sperms, the sperms being the most valuable and 



232 THE TOURIST'S NORTHWEST 

the rarest caught. One of average size is worth 
about $3000. A modern fashion of killing whales 
is by means of harpoons shot from guns in the bow 
of small steel steamers. The bolt ejects a bomb 
containing prussic acid, which in less than a minute 
paralyses the monster attacked. When the bone 
and oil are removed at the shore factory, the car- 
casses are processed to produce fertilizer and ani- 
mal meal. 

A tour of the Harbor by boat includes Bay City 
and the summer beaches on the ocean front. South 
of Cohasset the beach forms a broad firm boule- 
vard to Tokeland on Willapa Harbor, a name 
which signifies oysters to the Northwesterner. 
The distance between these two great salt-water 
bays is not more than 20 miles- over the connect- 
ing sands, and during the resort season is covered 
daily by auto stage. A branch of the Northern 
Pacific unites South Bend, at the head of Willapa 
Harbor, with Chehalis and Centralia (62 m.), on 
the main line. 

This southern deep-water haven, whose area is 
about 150 square miles, is especially known for its 
shell-fish industry. A million dollars' worth of 
oysters and crabs are taken each year, there being 
15,000 acres of oyster grounds alone on the bay 
and its rivers. The beds about Toke Point are 
renowned for the quality of their yield. A long 
peninsula, 2 miles wide, protects the bay from the 
incoming billows of the Pacific. 

Nahcotta, the most northerly of the twenty water- 
ing-places on this narrow sheltering arm, has 
steamer communication every week-day with Toke- 
land and South Bend. With the hotel and cottage 
communities below it, Nahcotta is served by the 



LOWER SOUND. SOUTHWEST COUNTIES 233 

Ilwaco Division of the Oregon - Washington Rail- 
road from Megler, opposite Astoria. North 
Beach is the inclusive name of the long lancet of 
land borne down by the Columbia, which is to the 
Washington Coast what Clatsop Beach is to Ore- 
gon, except that the elongated gulf of Willapa 
Harbor substitutes the cool trout streams that 
entice anglers to Gearhart and Seaside. Straight 
away for 25 miles flows an unbroken line of surf 
which spends its force on the gently declining floor 
of a neck of land thronged from June to October 
with bathers, motorists, clam-diggers and fisher- 
men, and with pedestrians whose goal is a fantastic 
cliff or sea-side grove, a cranberry bog, or a knoll 
from which amphibians are visible at play about 
an isolated rock. Long Beach is the most popu- 
lous centre of holiday pleasures. At the mouth of 
the Columbia, beyond Ilwaco and Baker's Bay, 
is Fort Canby. Further west is North Head 
whose splendid pharos shares with the light on 
Cape Disappointment the guardianship of this 
southwestern sea-board of Washington. 

Megler — Kalama — Kelso — Castle Rock — Mt. 
St. Helens. 

Because of its proximity and convenient trans- 
portation, North Beach is as much patronised by 
Oregonians as by those who seek the sea from west- 
ern and eastern Washington. Ferries leave Meg- 
ler, the station on the north shore of the Colum- 
bia which is the point of rail departure for North 
Beach, twice each week-day for Astoria, distant 
4» miles across the river. Oregon coast resorts 
accessible from Astoria, and rail and steamer 



234 THE TOURIST'S NORTHWEST 

routes to Portland are given in detail toward the 
end of the chapter entitled, " The Columbia 
River." 

The steamers of the Oregon - Washington Rail- 
road and Navigation Company call at small ports 
on the Washington shore en route between Astoria 
and Portland. 

Landing at Kalama, below the mouth of the 
Cowlitz River, one can go north 10 miles by rail 
or Pacific Highway to Kelso, a village half-way 
between Chehalis and Portland which is of interest 
for its smelt fisheries. Three " runs " occur at 
the estuary of the Cowlitz each December, except 
in the December of every seventh year, when no 
smelt enter the river. In good seasons, 30 tons 
a day are taken by the Kelso fishermen. The name 
of the town has been given to a sea-worthy, tor- 
pedo-shaped log raft whose design was originated 
here and whose appearance is familiar to voyagers 
on the Columbia. 

Proceeding another 10 miles north toward Cheha- 
lis and Centralia, from .which junction points we 
idisgressed to the Harbor Country, we arrive at 
Castle Rock, outfitting base for Spirit Lake and 
Mt. St. Helens. A road which bears 50 miles 
directly east from the main railway line ends on 
the upper shore of the lake. From the camp-site 
the symmetrical cone of the white-shrouded vol- 
cano is seen at nearly its full height of 9700 feet. 
Baker, Rainier and Adams exceed it in altitude, 
but no peak in the State has a fairer outline. Its 
rounded vertex is still intact, no cataclysm hav- 
ing yet demolished it, though proof that its fires 
still smouldered was manifested by eruptions 
which were recorded somewhat less than a century 
ago. 



LOWER SOUND. SOUTHWEST COUNTIES 235 

Vancouver — White Salmon — Mt. Adams — 
Wailula — Pasco. 

The rail and motor road, Seattle - Tacoma - Cen- 
tralia — Chehalis - Castle Rock — Kelso - Kalama, 
has its Washington terminus at Vanconver, 175 
miles south of the metropolis of the Sound. From 
Kalama, the east bank of the Columbia is followed 
to the gracious site opposite the confluence of the 
Willamette and the River of the West which was 
chosen in 1825 for the location of an important 
Hudson's Bay post by Chief Factor Dr. John 
McLoughlin. 

The point of land created at the angle of the 
Columbia, which here turns east again after fol- 
lowing a southerly direction for 40 miles, was 
named for Captain Vancouver by his aide, Lieu- 
tenant Broughton, who in the year the river was 
discovered explored its beaches 100 miles inland 
from the bar. As a centre for fur barter, a mart 
for grain, a refuge for travellers from beyond the 
mountains and from beyond the seas, and as the 
administrative headquarters of the Hudson's Bay 
governor west of the Rockies and north " through 
Okanogan and Kamloops and Cariboo to the limits 
of the Yukon," Fort Vancouver had first rank 
among the early settlements of the Oregon Coun- 
try. Of all the towns within the present limits of 
Washington, Vancouver is the civic ancestor. Its 
first dwellings and warehouses were picketed by 
spruce planks as high as the eaves to ward off In- 
dian assailants. In the meeting-hall scenes were 
enacted whose description reminds one of the 
frontier councils and festivities which took place a 
century before at the first Annapolis fort, on the 
other side of the continent. 



236 THE TOURIST'S NORTHWEST 

Dr. McLoughlin, the strong-willed Canadian who 
controlled with wisdom and forethought eminently 
difficult situations arising from the joint tenancy 
of surrounding valleys by Indians, Britishers, 
Frenchmen and Americans, received at his hospit- 
able hearth autocratic official, trader, priest and 
travel-worn immigrant ; here he bargained with 
trappers and bade farewell to motley fur brigades, 5 
dispensed medicine to fever-stricken natives and 
outfits to the plundered, despatched soldiers to 
quell uprisings, listened to the tales of the ship- 
wrecked and way-laid, wrote valiant replies to pro- 
tests of his superiors against his giving assistance 
and supplies to Americans who had taken up lands 
in the Valley of the Willamette — assistance which 
cost him his office after years of service at Fort 
Vancouver. 6 

The first school in the Oregon Country was es- 
tablished at Vancouver. The first sermon was 
preached by Jason Lee within its stockade. The 
first vessel built on the Columbia was launched 
from its banks. The first shipments of wheat and 
flour across the Pacific were made from its gran- 
aries. The Hudson's Bay coaster, the Beaver, 
first steamer in Pacific waters, called at this chief 
port of the Northwest on her maiden trip from 
Gravesend, where in 1835 King William of Eng- 
land had witnessed her christening. 

5 Volume II of Agnes Laut's fascinating Conquest of the 
Nortkioest contains extracts from the Journals of Peter 
Skene Ogden, a Montreal barrister turned explorer and 
fur-trapper, who in his reports to the Hudson's Bay Com- 
pany portrayed in detail typical experiences of the bands 
that went out from Vancouver and other posts of the 
Northwest in search of peltries. 

o See under Oregon City, Chapter IV, an account of Dr. 
McLoughlin's residence on the Willamette following his 
resignation as governor in 1846. 



LOWER SOUND. SOUTHWEST COUNTIES 237 

Vancouver and all the territory north of it as 
far as the present Canadian boundary were lost 
to the British at the signing of the final agree- 
ment between American and English commission- 
ers, seventy years ago. 

The rise on the river-bank was created a United 
States military post in 1860, and Sheridan, 
Kearney and Grant were stationed here during the 
first years of American possession. Vancouver 
Barracks is the present headquarters for the De- 
partment of the Columbia, and a garrison of 1400 
regulars is maintained. 

The town of Vancouver is more occupied with its 
future than with its stirring past. It deals no 
longer in beaver-skins, but makes very good tiles 
and bricks, packs prunes, saws big trees and mar- 
kets the produce of Clarke County farms. Its 
streets reflect energy and good taste. Even from 
train or passing boat, one gets an impression that 
Vancouver would be a pleasant place to live in. 
Not a few of its residents come back by trolley 
or steam road every night after a business day in 
Portland, half an hour away. (For Portland 
description, see Chapter Four.) 

The north and the south banks of the Columbia 
are united by " the largest double-track railway 
bridge in the world," and by the new inter-state 
bridge for foot passengers and vehicles. The story 
of how the latter span came to be built has been 
told in Chapter Five under " Portland — Dalles, via 
Steamer." As the river is the joint possession 
of Washington and Oregon, so all that is related in 
that chapter concerning the voyage over its sur- 
face between the palisades on the south and the 
rocks and hills of the north shore applies to the 
excursion which may be begun at Vancouver, where 



238 THE TOURIST'S NORTHWEST 

the Portland boat calls on both the up and the 
down trips. From Vancouver one can also go by 
the Spokane, Portland and Seattle Railroad along 
the southern border of the State, keeping the 
Columbia in sight all the way to Pasco, 220 miles 
to the east. Vancouver - Spokane, 367 miles in 10 
hours. A secondary state highway links Van- 
couver to Sunnyside in the lower Yakima Valley. 

Beyond Cape Horn and Castle Rock the railway 
makes its way at the foot of capricious declivities 
which define the north wall of the Columbia's 
gorge. The hamlets Stevenson and Carson, on the 
river-bank above Cascade Locks, are visited for 
their mineral springs. Campers and mountain 
climbers turn off the highroad here for Government 
Hot Springs, situated in the foothills of the Cas- 
cades. Tourist interest on the Washington side 
of the river centres about the rapids over-looked 
by the riven abutment of the Bridge of the Gods, 
and historically notable for the existence here of 
Sheridan's block house on the scene of his first 
battle. 

White Salmon is a station opposite Hood River, 
portal to Mt. Hood. A ferry serves the two 
towns, each of which is a distributing-point for 
the bountiful fruit products of valleys leading 
down to the main river highway. Vistas of the 
Columbia's channel and its guardian peaks are 
especially fine from the " Hood View " road on 
the bluffs above the outlet of the White Salmon 
River. Two admirable inns offer hospitality amid 
these delightful surroundings. 

The chief scenic tour in southern Washington is 
the 100-mile circuit which begins at White Salmon 




THE ROAD FROM TACOMA TO RAINTER NATIONAL PARK 



LOWER SOUND. SOUTHWEST COUNTIES 239 

in sight of the Columbia, passes up the verdant 
White Salmon Valley, and touches Trout Lake, 
Glenwood and the timber limit on Mt. Adams be- 
fore looping back toward the great river that 
flows below Mt. Hood. Trout Lake (25 m.) is 
the centre of a hilly Eden much in favour with 
Waltonians, and numbers among other near-by 
attractions a group of strange caverns formed of 
ice and lava, which are situated near the base of 
Mt. Adams. Glenwood, a dozen miles from the 
lake, is but an hour's ride by motor from the 
snow line of the great volcano, which stands back 
50 miles from the Columbia on an even range east 
from St. Helens. Adams approximates within 
2000 feet the elevation of Rainier, but is of later 
date geologically. Its cauldron has not yet cooled, 
as steam issuing from the depressed cone gives 
evidence. Camping-places are found in pine 
forests cropped by sheep and watered by hurried 
brooks, and in rolling parks such as beautify the 
borderlands of all these super-mountains of the 
northern Cascades. Though a thousand feet 
higher than its companion peak across the Colum- 
bia, Adams is less difficult to climb than Hood, 
and presents no serious obstacles to parties prop- 
erly equipped and guided. 

When the road now projected between Glenwood 
and North Yakima is completed through the 
Yakima Indian Reservation, automobile tourists 
will be enabled to drive direct from the Mt. Adams 
region into the Yakima Valley. 

The return trip from Glenwood to the Columbia 
may be made by stage or private motor-car via 
the canyon and valley of the White Salmon River 
to its mouth. From White Salmon village, the 



240 THE TOURIST'S NORTHWEST 

state road leaves the Columbia shore and turns 
northeast by way of Goldendale and the Klickitat 
River to Sunnyside, a fruit-growing centre mid- 
way between North Yakima and Pasco. The 
Klickitat Valley presents typical contrasts of 
mountain scenery, wheat-laden plateaux and 
heavy-bearing orchards. A short spur of the 
railway follows the river from Lyle to Goldendale, 
the county seat. The daily stage between Golden- 
dale and Maryhill may be employed for the return 
to the trunk line of the Spokane, Portland and 
Seattle Railway. Maryhill is the station at which 
guests alight w r ho come to visit the agricultural 
estate of Samuel Hill, prime mover in the Washing- 
ton Good Roads Association. A demonstration 
highway built at an expense of $100,000 traverses 
a domain comprising several thousand acres. 

The passenger who travels by rail from Lyle to 
Maryhill will gain from the car window a good im- 
pression of the curiously narrowed and impeded 
passage-way of the Columbia, the cause of which 
is related in Chapter Five, under the subject head, 
" The Dalles." At Grand Dalles station a ferry 
crosses the river to Dalles City, on the Oregon 
shore. 

Beyond Maryhill the channel broadens, several 
islands are noted in the centre of the stream, and 
the river cleaves the barrier of the Umatilla high- 
lands. The undulated bunch grass plains en- 
compassed by the Columbia and the Yakima, and 
descriptively named Horse Heaven, border the rails 
on the north. The bed of the Columbia, which 
throughout its entire length of 1400 miles, extend- 
ing from a lake in eastern British Columbia to the 
Pacific Ocean, is distinguished by numbers of em- 
bracing curves, bends abruptly to the west at 



LOWER SOUND. SOUTHWEST COUNTIES 241 

Wallua. 7 2l few miles beyond, the international 
stream receives the tribute of the Snake River, 
which wends its way north in a similar series of 
twists and turns from the hills of Eastern Idaho, 
just outside the bounds of Yellowstone National 
Park. 

Pasco, which surveys the wedding of the rivers, 
is seat of a county which had in 1900 a popula- 
tion of 486. By the next census the number of its' 
inhabitants had increased 960 per cent. New rail- 
roads and irrigation plants have been the influen- 
tial factors in the progress of this southern sec- 
tion of the vast Columbia Basin, and the recent 
completion of the Celilo locks, permitting 
river navigation from Pasco to the Pacific, is 
bound to further affect the resources of this and 
adjoining counties. River-boats also ply up the 
Columbia 70 miles to Priest Rapids, and on the 
Snake as far east as Lewiston, Idaho*. 

The great circular plateau that usurps the heart 
of Washington is surrounded for nearly three-quar- 
ters of its circumference by the Snake and the Co- 
lumbia, and enclosed by foothills of the Cascades, 
by the Okanogan Highlands, by spurs north and 
east of Spokane, and by the Blue Mountains. In 
its uncultivated state it comprised sagebrush 
prairies, coulees, or dry river-beds, sandy plains, 
guiltless of any trees, and bare bench-lands. By 
the artificial introduction of water, acres by the 
hundred thousand have been redeemed for the grow- 
ing of wheat, alfalfa, hops, fruits and vegetables on 
this warm, sunny table-land, which those versed in 

TWallula — Walla Walla, 31 miles by O.-W. R. & N. 
branch. For railway from Seattle via Wenatchee, North 
Yakima and Pasco, see " Routes across the Cascades to the 
Columbia Basin," Chapter VII. 



242 THE TOURIST'S NORTHWEST 

the structures of the earth believe to have been 
the bed of a long-since evaporated sea. 

The Palouse wheat plains in the southeast are 
matched in the north by the Big Bend prairie in the 
production of grains. The total wheat acreage 
of the Columbia Basin yields an average crop of 
55,000,000 bushels a year. Barley and oats add 
another 20,000,000 bushels to the annual output 
of the Inland Empire. 

By Northern Pacific or Oregon-Washington Railroad, 
Pasco is 90 miles distant from North Yakima. The route 
from Seattle to the Columbia Basin is detailed at the end 
of Chapter VII. 

Kennewick (across the Columbia from Pasco) -Wallula 
(16 m.) -Walla Walla (47 m.), by Oregon - Washington 
line. The distance is 20 miles longer by a branch of the 
Northern Pacific from Pasco to Walla Walla. 

Pasco -Walla Walla by motor highway, 50 m. 

Pasco - Spokane, 146 miles by Northern Pacific trans- 
continental line and by Spokane, Portland and Seattle 
Road, in 4 to 4>y 2 hours. By Oregon - Washington line 
via Attalia, Ayer Junction and Marengo, 167 miles. 

By Inland Empire Highway via Walla Walla, 200 miles. 



CHAPTER X 

EASTERN WASHINGTON. THE IDAHO LAKES. 

Wallula — Walla Walla.— Through the Palouse Country to 

Spokane. — 'Spokane and its Environs. — Lake Coeur 

d'Alene, Hayden Lake and Lake Pend d'Oreille. — - 

En Route to Glacier National Park. 



Wallula — Walla Walla. 

It is recorded that an English surveyor, by name 
David Thompson, a recruit from the Hudson's 
Blay Company to the service of their keen-headed 
rivals, the Nor'westers, explored the Columbia 
" from source to sea " in the years 1810 and 1811. 
Below the Columbia's junction with the Snake, he 
erected, according to his own report said to be 
preserved in the archives of Ontario, " a small pole 
with a half sheet of paper tied about it, with these 
words : ' Know hereby this country is claimed by 
Great Britain and the N W Company from Can- 
ada do hereby intend to erect a factory on this 
place for the commerce of the country — D. Thomp- 
son.' " 

Where the Walla Walla River merges with the 
sovereign stream, a fortified centre for trapping 
expeditions was established seven years later, on 
the present site of Wallula village, by a voyageur 
of the Northwest Company. The interlopers, as 
they were deemed by the Hudson's Bay Company, 
were already intrenched on the Rivers Spokane and 

Okanogan. The huts at the mouth of the Walla 

043 



244 THE TOURIST'S NORTHWEST 

Walla became the southern outpost of their 
domain in 1818. Before the creation of the fort 
above Point Vancouver, the successors of the 
" Gentlemen Adventurers of England Trading on 
Hudson's Bay " consolidated with the " Nor'west- 
ers," a defiant band of fur traffickers who had 
organised at Montreal late in the eighteenth cen- 
tury, about a hundred years after the older com- 
pany was chartered. Fort Walla Walla, overlook- 
ing the outlet of the " River of Many Wat its," and 
half-way house between Vancouver and the posts in 
the north, flew the Hudson's Bay flag between the 
years 1821 and 1846. In 1841 the frontier for- 
talice was destroyed by fire. It was later rebuilt 
and was a familiar assembly point for immigrants 
starting down the Columbia Valley by boats, or by 
wagons over the Barlow trail. 

In 1835, Marcus Whitman, a physician from New 
York State, was appointed by the American Board 
of Foreign Missions to undertake a journey to the 
Far West River with a ministerial companion, for 
the purpose of determining the best locality in 
which to organise a mission to the Indians. The 
political status of the Oregon Country was not 
decided until a decade later. To the Easterner 
this was still a foreign land. A preliminary re- 
connaissance in the west was followed by a longer 
journey in 1836. In September of that year, Dr. 
Whitman, accompanied by his bride of a few 
months and a party of missionaries, arrived at Fort 
Walla Walla. Their decision to labour first among 
the tribes of the Walla Walla Valley was influenced 
by Dr. McLoughlin, with whom the new arrivals 
conferred at Vancouver. The place definitely 
chosen was Waiilatpu, 25 miles east of the Hud- 
son's Bay fort and 6 miles west from the site of 



EASTERN WASHINGTON. IDAHO LAKES 245 

the flourishing 1 city which stands to-day on the 
banks of the Walla Walla River. 

The first American baby born in the Oregon 
Country lifted its infant voice in the cabin of Dr. 
Whitman and his saintly wife, Narcissa. The new 
mother and the wife of a companion missionary 
were the first white women to come west over the 
Rocky Mountains. 

The mission at Waiilatpu had not long been es- 
tablished when difficulties arose which threatened 
its dissolution. Dr. Whitman, a stalwart, up- 
standing man of magnetic personality, and earn- 
estly desirous for the Americanisation of Oregon, 
determined in the fall of 1842 to return east to 
urge upon his Board the continuation of the mis- 
sion, to apprise the Government of Oregon's ad- 
vantages in regard to colonisation, and to organise 
a company of emigrants to make the journey back 
with him to the Columbia Valley. Though the 
month was October, the missionary-physician, 
stricken with a responsibility which no one else 
shared, dauntless, resourceful and careless of all 
danger, undertook to cross the mountains already 
choked with snow, with only such equipment as 
could be carried strapped on the back of his horse. 
A friend accompanied him as far as Colorado. 
The rest of the journey to Boston and Washing- 
ton he made alone, most of it in the saddle, and dur- 
ing the stormiest months of the winter. 

What to do about Oregon was already a serious 
consideration at the Capitol. For thirty years in- 
termittent reports of pioneers had advised the peo- 
ple and the Government concerning its resources. 
Previous to Whitman's advent, families had been 
urged to migrate thither, with the hope that 
increased American population would outweigh 



246 THE TOURIST'S NORTHWEST 

British commercial influence in the Far West, where 
at that time two flags waved over a common 
ground. The courage of the Oregon missionary 
in crossing the continent on horse-back at an un- 
favourable season, and for a high purpose, drew 
further attention to Oregon. Horace Greeley 
wrote a " sympathetic editorial " about the modest 
hero, and the Secretary of War in the cabinet of 
President Tyler accorded him an interview. The 
American Board of Foreign Missions agreed to 
continue the Waiilatpu station, which Dr. Whit- 
man urged was not only of moment in the civilisa- 
tion of the Cayuses and Walla Wallas, but a post 
at which incoming caravans from the east might be 
succoured. 

Abandoning his intention of assembling by his 
own efforts a company of emigrants, he offered 
the experience he had gained during three trans- 
continental journeys for the benefit of the would- 
be settlers who were already preparing to cross the 
mountains under the convoy of Lieutenant Fre- 
mont, whom Congress had designated their path- 
finder. This migration of a thousand pioneers 
in the memorable year of 1843 had a lasting effect 
upon the ultimate occupation of Oregon. Because 
it coincided with the heroic pilgrimage of the de- 
voted Whitman, his Mission Board, in re-telling 
the story of the Ride a quarter-century later, con- 
strued this movement to colonise Oregon as directly 
attributable to his energy and influence, and ex- 
aggerated the interest with which he was received 
by those in high places. What Whitman did might 
very reasonably have stirred officials at Washing- 
ton and the people at large to definite action re- 
garding the populating of the disputed territory. 
But chronological facts plainly indicate that senti- 



EASTERN WASHINGTON. IDAHO LAKES 247 

ment favourable to emigration to the Northwest 
had already taken material form before he reached 
the East, and that he subsequently played a minor 
part, though a helpful one, in the winning of Ore- 
gon for the United States. 

Volumes have been written eulogising the sturdy 
apostle of Waiilatpu as the saviour of Oregon. 
Other volumes dispute his right to even a humble 
place among Oregon's heroes, and denote his ride, 
the " Whitman myth." The truth, as a Canadian 
writer puts it, " probably exists half way between 
the critics' scepticism and the old legend." 

During Dr. Whitman's absence the natives had 
threatened his wife, who had been compelled to seek 
the protection of the British posts, and had burned 
the mill attached to the mission. The decision had 
just been taken to remove further down the Co- 
lumbia, following other hostile demonstrations dur- 
ing the years 1843 to 1847, when the Indians of the 
W T alla Walla Valley were attacked by a virulent 
plague of measles. Primitive methods of treat- 
ment were not easily combated by white men whom 
the Cayuses distrusted and disliked because they 
stood for a new order which ignored ancient tra- 
ditions and rights. Evil hints were bruited that 
the medicine-man of the missionaries was adminis- 
tering harmful remedies, if he was not actually to 
blame for the spread of the epidemic. On a day 
late in November of 1847, savages entered the 
Whitman home and slew the Doctor and his wife 
with tomahawks and bullets. That day and dur- 
ing the next week a dozen others at the station were 
murdered, and fifty women and children were 
dragged into shameful captivity. The factor at 
Fort Vancouver, on hearing the news, sent the fear- 
less Peter Ogden to free the captives and give aid 



248 THE TOURIST'S NORTHWEST 

in all ways possible. But the factor at Fort Walla 
Walla refused the refuge of his stockade to Ameri- 
can families who fled the scene of massacre, and at 
least one victim of his brutality died in conse- 
quence. 

Volunteer troops were despatched from the Will- 
amette Valley to do battle with the tribes responsi- 
ble for the massacre. Followed the Cayuse War, 
during which five of the murderers were captured 
and hanged. During a brief truce, Governor 
Stevens of Washington held council on the site of 
Walla Walla City with five thousand enemy natives 
and their chiefs all in savage array. A treaty 
was signed, only to be violated before the ink was 
dry. The War of 1855-56 was waged by the 
ferocious Klickitats, Walla Wallas, Umatillas, 
Cayuses, Yakimas and Palouses against settlers 
in all the valleys south of the Columbia 
plateau. A great battle was fought near the 
exterminated mission west of Walla Walla, and 
won by the Oregon militia. A second council 
was held on the former treaty ground, but without 
result, and another conflict took place in the Val- 
ley, in which Colonel Steptoe of the regulars was 
victorious. In the winter of '56 an American 
Fort Walla Walla was raised on the banks of Mill 
Creek. About this feeble defence a village grew 
which is mentioned in Washington annals as the 
second town in the commonwealth in point of age. 
During the year 1857, the Walla Walla Valley was 
opened to settlers. The grassy plains, "always 
good pasturage for horses," were thereafter 
browsed by cattle and sheep. The village of Walla 
Walla acquired wealth and population, augmented 
by the stampede of 1860-61 to the mines of east- 
ern Washington and Idaho. In twenty years it 



EASTERN WASHINGTON. IDAHO LAKES 249 

had become the most important town in the State. 

The Walla Walla of the present is queen of a val- 
ley fabled for its production of wheat, of which the 
yield is 5,000,000 bushels a year, of wool, whose 
clip averages two pounds to a sheep more than is 
ordinarily obtained elsewhere in the United States, 
and of fruits famed for their size and flavour. 
The oldest banking institution in the State is in 
Walla Walla. With four others it receives the 
deposits of principal centres in southeastern Wash- 
ington and northeastern Oregon. 

Blossom-time in the valley and harvest-time are 
seasons that many come from far to enjoy. The 
county fair is a wondrous exhibition of fine live- 
stock, blue-stem wheat, flowers, cowboy feats and 
ruddy apples. So broad are the plains of eastern 
Washington and so rich this particular section 
that it was proposed in 1861 to create the Terri- 
tory of Walla Walla as distinct from the division 
west of the Columbia, which was still to be called 
Washington. The first railroad built between two 
State towns is the one over which we ride from 
Wallula to the valley metropolis. Its construc- 
tion was financed by Dr. Baker, an Illinois settler 
in Walla Walla, and its completion was celebrated 
there in 1875. Says Meany : " Weird and humor- 
ous tales are told about that old road. At first 
the rails were of wood, and Governor Mead has 
said that on these rails were tacked strips of raw- 
hide. One hard winter the railroad was put out 
of commission by the starving coyotes eating those 
rawhide rails. Later strap iron was nailed to the 
wooden rails. Frequently the train was stopped 
to allow the fireman and engineer to run ahead and 
drive down the loosened spikes in the iron straps. 
For all that, the road was a financial success." 



250 THE TOURIST'S NORTHWEST 

Whitman College is the outgrowth of a prepara- 
tory school founded some sixty years ago by a 
farmer-missionary. Visitors to Walla Walla are 
free to inspect the historical museum maintained 
in one of the college buildings. The site itself is 
worthy of observation as the spot upon which the 
Governor of Washington, attended only by fifty 
white men, bravely met and treated with several 
thousand treacherous Indians, in whose minds plans 
for renewed warfare were already forming. Old 
Fort Walla Walla, erected on Mill Creek in 1856, 
occupies an honoured position in the centre of the 
well-built, modern city. Few strangers leave the 
valley before driving the six miles to the mourn- 
ful hillock whereon stands a monument to the 
massacred missionaries and settlers whose bones 
are entombed at its base. 

For outdoor pleasures and valley views of wide 
scope, Walla Wallans recommend the Blue Moun- 
tains, "a reft and jagged range" which slopes 
from the uplands of the Columbia Basin and sheds 
its snows on the east side into the Snake River. 
Southeast of Walla Walla, horse-back parties cross 
the Oregon line and go by way of Toll Gate Pass 
into the Wallowa Valley, and on to Wallowa Lake 
by train or trail. Good but hilly roads lead from 
Walla Walla to Bingham Hot Springs (59 m.), in 
the Blue Mountains, and to Pendleton, Ore. 
(54 m.). Walla Walla - Pendleton by Oregon - 
Washington Railroad, 49 miles. For Wallowa and 
Pendleton description see latter part of Chap- 
ter V. 

Walla Walla is the rallying point of a dozen rail 
and motor-roads that ramble hither from Oregon, 
and wander in from cities and villages on the Wash- 




A FOREST LANE TN EASTERN WASHINGTON 



EASTERN WASHINGTON. IDAHO LAKES 251 

ington side of the border that have local impor- 
tance as distributing stations for the abundant 
crops of surrounding counties. A county without 
a railroad is hilly Asotin, which fills the southeast- 
ern angle of the State. Walla Walla — Waits- 
burg — Clarkston - Lewiston, Idaho, by highroad, 
89 miles. 

A confusion of routes is presented the traveller 
who turns north from Walla Walla toward 
Spokane. The most direct way over the wheat- 
fields is by the Oregon - Washington Road, Walla 
Walla — Grange City Junction - Hooper Junction 
— Spokane (159 m.). By another O.-W. route 
Walla Walla is distant 198 m. from Sqokane, via 
Grange City Junction, Riparia, Winona and 
Tekoa. 1 

From Riparia, branches of both the O.-W. 
and N. P. R'ys turn east and south to Lewiston 
(70 m.), on the Idaho border. Steamboats also 
run up the Snake River from Riparia to Clarkston, 
Asotin County, which is joined to the Idaho city by 
suspension bridge across the boundary-mark of 
the river. In this torrid corner of Washington, 
sub-tropical fruits are produced in immense 
quantities. The Vineland irrigated district yields 
nectarines, apricots and fine grapes, besides peaches 
and cherries. Lewiston, Idaho, is situated at the 
confluence of the Clearwater River with the Snake. 
In the Kamiah Valley on the Clearwater River, 50 

i The Northern Pacific leads west by north to Attalia and 
Pasco, and from Pasco via Ritzville through miles of wheat 
lands to Spokane (210 m.). The general direction of the 
Spokane, Portland and Seattle Road, Pasco - Spokane 
(150 m.) is the same as that taken by the Northern Pacific. 

By Inland Empire Highway, Walla Walla is distant 
from Spokane 150 miles, via Bolles, Delaney, Penewawa 
ferry across the Snake River, Colfax, Thornton, Rosalia 
and Spangle. 



252 THE TOURIST'S NORTHWEST 

miles east of Lewiston, the explorers Lewis and 
Clark rested for a month at Camp Chopunnish in 
the spring of 1805, until the snow had sufficiently 
melted to allow them to cross the Bitter Root 
Mountains on their homeward journey. Not far 
from this region gold was discovered fifty-five years 
later, which resulted in an excited influx of miners 
through Walla Walla and Lewiston. Over $7,- 
000,000 worth of ore was taken from the Orofino 
district in two years. 

North from Riparia, on the secondary Oregon - 
Washington line to Spokane, a branch turns east 
at Winona through the heart of the rolling Pa- 
louse Country to the rich little town of Colfax, and 
to Pullman (44 m.), seat of the State College, 
whose practical courses in the scientific cultivation 
of the soil attract a large number of students. 
The terminus of the spur is at Moscow, a few miles 
across the Idaho boundary. Pullman and neigh- 
bouring towns are also served by branches of the 
Northern Pacific, and the Spokane and Inland Em- 
pire Electric Railway. The Palouse Highway is 
the motor-road link with Spokane. At Garfield a 
Washington - Idaho Round-up is held late in the 
summer. In this vicinity is Pyramid Butte, also 
called Steptoe Butte, a barren and tragic landmark 
of the Palouse Country, which witnessed the defeat 
of troops sent out from Walla Walla in May, 1858, 
under command of Colonel Steptoe, to subdue hos- 
tile natives of the northeast. The white forces 
would have been exterminated by the Spokanes, 
Cceur d'Alenes and other tribes but for the friend- 
ship and craft of a Nez Perce chief who led the rem- 
nant of Steptoe's command by a circuitous trail 
back to the Snake River under cover of the dark. 
At Rosalia, 20 miles north of Garfield, a park 



EASTERN WASHINGTON. IDAHO LAKES 253 

has been created to mark the battle-ground. 
In the fall of 1858, Colonel George Wright, 
commandant at Walla Walla, decisively conquered 
the victors of Steptoe on the lake-dotted plains 
between Spangle and Spokane, and on near-by 
Hangman's Creek he executed a number of chiefs 
and their tribesmen. Fort Wright, which occupies 
a thousand acres on the river east of Spokane, is 
named in memory of this courageous and skilful 
fighter. 

Spokane. 2 

Posed against a background of snowy hills, Spo^ 
kane is mistress of prairies that flow from the west 
and the south and pay her tribute of cattle, fruit 
and grain beyond the riches of many a king's em- 
pire. To the north and the east are mountains 
fraught with precious metals. Like Seattle, Spo- 
kane has profited as the repository of wealth taken 
from streams and ledges, and much of her treasure 
has been inherited from a region beyond the con- 
fines of the United States. The Yukon Territory 
helped build Seattle. Nearly a decade before her 
golden ships came in, the Kootenay District of 
British Columbia had dowered Spokane with a for- 
tune in silver. 

The " Spokan Country," first mentioned in the 
journals of Lewis and Clark, was enlivened in 1811 
by the establishment of rival trading posts at the 
junction of the Spokane River and its tributary, 
the Little Spokane. Spokane House, important 

2 For routes to Spokane, see " Transportation " and 
"Motorways," Chapter I. Also end of Chapter VII and 
middle of Chapter VIII for rail and motor routes from 
Puget Sound; and end of Chapter IV for railroads from 
Portland. End of Chapter IX for routes thither from 
southern Washington. 



254 THE TOURIST'S NORTHWEST 

base for the operations of the Northwest Company, 
was taken over by the Hudson's Bay Company in 
1821. The Astor post, organised by the short- 
lived Pacific Fur Company, had been sold to the 
NorVesters when Astoria passed out of the Ameri- 
cans' hands, during the War of 1812. To this 
rendezvous in the remote interior, moccasined 
bands, — Scotch, Canadian French, American, 
English, — came by canoe and on foot bringing 
from the Pacific or from distant parts of Canada 
munitions, blankets, traps and beads to clinch with 
the Indians bargains in skins. Trapping crews 
outfitted here, and factors of the British companies 
were entertained at ambitious social affairs that 
were gay, not to say roysterously reckless. 

The name Spokane as spelled to-day first ap- 
peared on a War Department map in 1838. An 
era of missionary effort by Protestants and Ro- 
manists, dating from this year, had a satirical 
climax in the bitter Indian wars of '53-'58. In 
1860 and 1861, miners came to the diggings on 
Washington rivers, Idaho being until 1863 a part 
of Washington. Camps as wild as those of Cali- 
fornia succeeded the desultory bivouac of a group 
of prospectors whose horses disclosed what lay be- 
neath their pasture by pulling up grass that had 
gold clinging in yellow clods to its roots. Farm- 
ers came in the wake of the miners. In 1872 three 
clairvoyant millers set up sawing machinery on 
the brink of the twin falls formed by the Spokane 
River, at a point 14 miles east of the abandoned 
site of the Britishers' fur post. Eight years later, 
according to N. W. Durham, a local historian, 
there were fifty houses on the south side of the 
river. Transportation across its frothy bed was 
by " a rope ferry and two canoes." On the hill- 



EASTERN WASHINGTON. IDAHO LAKES 255 

sides before their tepees, " blanketed braves loafed 
and stalked in the shade of the silent pines." 

The town of Spokane Falls was incorporated in 
1881. Its permanency was insured when the 
builders of the Northern Pacific laid their rails 
this way across the continent, and when gold was 
discovered in the mountainous region about Cceur 
d'Alene Lake in the year 1883. Another six 
years, and the Hercules lead mine divulged its 
store. It is said that the preliminary work on 
this mine was paid for out of the savings of a 
young woman teacher, a relative of the original 
discoverer. Since 1889, over $5,000,000 worth of 
lead has been taken from its pits. 

The great fire of '89 left two buildings standing 
on Spokane's principal street. Strangely enough, 
the same year witnessed the destruction of the 
main portions of Seattle and two other Washing- 
ton towns by the same agency. The ashes were 
scarcely cool when a new Spokane was conceived. 
The city's progress from that day to this is a mat- 
ter of pride to all the Northwest. The develop- 
ment of farms and orchards within the past score 
of years has augmented the importance of this 
chief city between the Rockies and the Cascades. 
If Washington should be divided, as was attempted 
fifty years ago, the plains east of the Columbia 
would assuredly now be known as the State of 
Spokane. 

A shining star in a constellation of steam roads, 
electric roads, wagon roads, Spokane glows in a 
very transport of transportation. Take passage 
in the East on any one of seven main railways, 
and you may arrive at the City of Rushing Waters 
without so much inconvenience as a change of cars. 
Rails turn to Spokane as metal to a magnet. 



2S6 THE TOURIST'S NORTHWEST 

Rails to the left of her, rails to the right, rails 
above and below lead to her gates, then speed 
one away again to peaks, forests, lakes and rivers, 
to all-wheat kingdoms and to kingdoms where the 
apple-tree is the reigning emblem. No sort of 
outing may be conceived, short of a swim in the 
sea, to which wheels will not carry one in a hun- 
dred minutes from Spokane. 

Two days or three will suffice to give you casual 
acquaintance with the restless streets, the faultless 
boulevards, the acres of gardens and some of the 
fifty parks, the prosperous villas, cottages and 
mansions that compose the city. You will stroll 
amid herders, farmers, students, leather-fringed 
rangers, apple magnates, modish women and silver- 
lined autocrats on Riverside Avenue, inspect its 
shops, see a play or two. At the new Davenport 
you will while agreeable hours in irreproachable 
salons and tea-rooms, and find diversion in gay 
functions that speak of New York or Frisco. If 
your visit is in September or November (and in the 
summer you may find Spokane parched and un- 
bearably hot), you will enjoy the famous Inter- 
state Fair or the festive Apple Show. You will of 
course see the cascades that founded the city. In 
two spans separated by a mass of rough rock, they 
plunge over ledges 200 feet wide and 150 feet high. 
Electricity's demands and the season affect the 
volume. Work-a-day falls like these may not 
crush wheat, turn lathes, run railways, operate 
mines without sacrificing something of pristine 
energy and form. 

The falls and the river's bridges, drives and re- 
sorts, the level lawns of the north side, the opulent 
crests of the south, the city's hundred churches, 
its colleges, handsome public buildings, schools and 



EASTERN WASHINGTON. IDAHO LAKES 257 

library, its natural and landscaped recreation 
grounds, will be pointed out from the motor 
carry-all that leaves twice a day from the prin- 
cipal hotels, and from the headquarters of the 
Chamber of Commerce. The latter organisation 
not only starts tourists on their sight-seeing way, 
but provides exhaustive pamphlets which give more 
fully than this chapter has space to do facts con- 
cerning the half-hundred excursions to be taken 
from Spokane by private automobile, public stage, 
traction or interurban line, trolley and train. 
The Automobile Club gives further assistance, and 
the Motorists' Travel Service Bureau of the Na- 
tional Parks Transcontinental Highway will advise 
concerning longer trips. The Travel Bureau of 
the Washington Water Power Company may also 
be consulted as to interurban and local journeys. 

For a five-cent fare one can circle by trolley the 
hillside estates that survey the heart of the city 
and the homes spread on the plain below Mt. Spo- 
kane, a peak 6000 feet high whose summit is at- 
tainable by a 20-mile motor and trail expedition. 
A nickel also buys the joys of Manito Park, ini- 
tiates one into the aboriginal mysteries of Indian 
Canyon, and gives one a view of Fort Wright, the 
most spacious Government post in the Northwest. 
Inland Empire Traction Car and motor bus com- 
bine to show one the ornate dwellings, the country 
club and promising college that adorn the banks 
of the Little Spokane. 

A motor-car may be driven straight out the same 
Waikiki Road to Deer Park, a station on the 
Great Northern Railway, 25 miles north from Spo- 
kane. The attraction here is an orchard 7500 
acres in expanse, owned by one company. Fifteen 
miles beyond is Loon Lake, fished for its perch and 



<258 THE TOURIST'S NORTHWEST 

Dolly Varden trout. Continue 60 miles further in 
the same northerly direction, by motor-road or 
Great Northern, past Deer Lake, through a cop- 
per mine district and the richly timbered Colville 
Valley, and you will come to the junction of the 
Kettle River with the River of the West, here 
bound due south from the Arrow Lakes in British 
Columbia on its way to the " Big Bend." A few 
miles below Marcus, at Kettle Falls, British trad- 
ers had a post in 1833, and the Catholic Fathers a 
mission. If disposed to adventure, you can hire 
an Indian or two from the near-by Reservation and 
trace the vacillating stream in a bateau from the 
Falls to Wenatchee, 150 miles to the southwest. 

From Marcus, rail and wagon-road press on 25 
miles to the Canadian boundary along opposite 
banks of the Kettle River. The Great Northern 
takes one this way from Spokane to Oroville (227 
miles). 

A Great Northern fork from Marcus gives access 
to the Kootenay mines about Rossland and ends 
at Nelson, B. C. (100 m.). Spokane - Nelson, 
200 miles. See Note 3, this chapter, for routes 
out of Nelson, over Canadian Pacific rail and 
steamer lines. 

Westward from Spokane there are drives which 
lead to lakes utilitarian, pastoral, curative, pis- 
catorial. One has only to name his mood and a 
lake can be found to match it. On the road to 
Long Lake, reached by a drive along the shady 
Spokane River, strangers like to turn off at the 
ninth mile to see the spot where the Nor'westers 
and the Astorians appraised beaver skins at so 
many for a blanket, and the Hudson's Bay factor 
despatched trapping brigades after the year 1821, 



EASTERN WASHINGTON. IDAHO LAKES 259 

The river, but a highway for fur traffickers a cen- 
tury ago, becomes a powerful generating agency 
at the thirtieth mile, where it pours in four great 
streams over a dam 150 feet high and forms Long 
Lake. Below the concrete spillway is the plant of 
the company which operates Spokane's street car 
system. Running south 20 miles to Reardon on 
the Sunset Highway, the trip back to Spokane is 
via Medical Lake, reputed for its anti-rheumatic 
properties. Several other lakes lie to the south 
which serve no purpose but to freshen the land- 
scape. Lakes garnish the route of the Oregon - 
Washington Railroad all the way from Spokane 
to Marengo. Rock Lake, shut in by high sheer 
walls, stretches for 15 miles along the continental 
track of the Chicago, Milwaukee and St. Paul Road 
out of Spokane to the southwest. 

Through Spangle and Rosalia the Inland Empire 
highroad winds over billowy plains, black at seed- 
time, green in the spring, yellow at the harvest. 
No wheat sprang here in the day when Steptoe's 
feeble force met the bloody attack of merciless sav- 
ages on this prairie below the grim pointed butte 
which beckons to the south. 



Lake Coeur d'Alene, Hayden Lake 
and Lake Pend d' Oreille. 

Eastward from Spokane runs the premier high- 
way of the County of Spokane, which boasts within 
its limits a road mileage nearly equal to the width 
of the continent. The " Apple Way " is a paved 
straight path through a flumed park of orchards 
whose area is computed by the square mile and 
whose trees by the hundred thousand. For two- 
thirds of the way to Coeur d'Alene Lake (33 m.) 



260 THE TOURIST'S NORTHWEST 

the Apple Road keeps pace with the Spokane River. 
A little way west of the Idaho border a detour is 
made at Mile 14 to Liberty Lake, a popular centre 
for summer sports, — camping, fishing, boating, 
bathing. 

The Inland Empire Traction road proceeds in 
the direction of the Apple Way to the town of 
Cceur d'Alene, a frequented resort at the source 
of the Spokane River. Another route to Cceur 
d'Alene is via the Northern Pacific through 
Post Falls. The O.-W. R. line to Wallace from 
Spokane crosses the foot of the lake at Harrison 
(43 m.). The Red Collar steamboats traverse its 
length from Cceur d'Alene town, at the northern 
end, and in a little over three hours (43 m.) arrive 
at St. Maries on the lofty River St. Joe. The 
most delightfully diversified day trip out of Spo- 
kane (180 miles in 12 hours) is the one which 
leaves the Inland Empire terminal daily at 7:40 
a. m., goes down the lake to Chatcolet and St. 
Maries, continues 10 miles over the mirroring sur- 
face of the famed St. Joe to the head of river navi- 
gation, and returns over the same course to Spo- 
kane. The Sunday price for this interstate jour- 
ney by land and water is $2.50. 

The Chicago, Milwaukee and St. Paul offers pas- 
sengers the option of going without extra cost by 
electric train and steamer to St. Maries, and there 
joining the trunk line, Spokane - Avery, Ida. - 
Missoula, Mont. - Deer Lodge - Butte - Chicago. 

The mining camps of the Cceur d'Alene hills are 
reached by the Oregon - Washington branch, Spo- 
kane-Harrison-Wallace (92 m.). In this re- 
gion is produced a third of all the lead output of 
the United States. From a narrow gulch in the 
Wardncr district is taken ore to the value of $10,- 



EASTERN WASHINGTON. IDAHO LAKES 261 

000,000 in an average year. The Bunker Hill and 
Sullivan mine at Kellogg is the biggest producer 
of lead anywhere known. Wallace is the trade 
centre of a net-work of mines which since their 
discovery have given to the world $200,000,000 
worth of lead, silver, gold, copper and zinc. 

The name Coeur d'Alene, " heart like an awl," 
was given to the tribes of this section by French 
voyagers to express their sharp practice in trade. 

A road 7 miles in length unites the upper end 
of Lake Cceur d'Alene with Hayden Lake. Motor- 
ists like to go out the Apple Way, touch the 
shores of both these mountain jewels, and return 
to Spokane by the Trent Road, which parallels 
the Spokane River on the north. 

By Inland Empire tri-daily electric trains, Hay- 
den Lake, via Cceur d'Alene, is distant an hour 
and a half (40 m.) from the corner of Main and 
Lincoln Streets, Spokane. Regular round trip 
fare, $2. This comparatively small but exceed- 
ingly pretty Idaho lake, 15 miles beyond the inter- 
state border, is the resort of the tourist, the sum- 
mer sojourner, the trout fisherman and the hunter, 
whose game is in adjacent forests. Principally, 
it is the happy golfing ground of enthusiasts who 
appraise their skill by the score they are able to 
make over its exacting course. A pleasant chalet 
surrounded by tents and cabins provides entertain- 
ment for those who spend a day or a season on the 
edge of this lake, known throughout Eastern 
Washington for its limpid charms. 

A trip north through the mountains from Spokane 
to Metaline Falls, a point of scenic interest on the 
Clark Fork of the Pend d'Oreille River, may be 
accomplished in a day by an Idaho, Washington, 



262 THE TOURIST'S NORTHWEST 

Northern train which leaves Union Station early 
in the morning and returns to Spokane by dinner- 
time. The same route may be followed nearly all 
the way to Metaline Falls by automobile. A 
stretch of lake-embellished highland beguiles the 
distance through Idaho to the roads' junction with 
the river at Newport (4<6-62 m.). Newman Lake, 
also reached from Spokane by daily stage, is an 
anglers' delight. Twin Lakes offer fishing and 
fresh-water bathing from a sandy beach. Spirit 
Lake, like the lake of the same name across the 
Cascades, serves as crystal foot-stool for a moun- 
tain. An easy trail through the forests of Mt. 
Spokane achieves the summit of this snow-top 
whose view includes three States and a foreign 
province, and a profusion of fair vales and water 
levels. The wagon-road up this Mount of the Sun 
Children approaches from the west side by way of 
Chattaroy, and reaches to within three miles of the 
crest. This is the route ordinarily chosen from 
Spokane. 

From Newport on the State boundary, the rails 
follow the Pend d'Oreille, a river which is both 
interstate and international in its geography. 
The course from Newport to Metaline Falls is 
northward through Washington, and ends where 
the stream cataracts over a rough bed between 
craggy walls. Pend d'Oreille County is bounded 
on the east by Idaho and on the north by Canada. 

Newport lies on the main line of the Great North- 
ern route to the east. At Priest River, Ida., 7 
miles beyond, an automobile stage makes daily con- 
nection for the lower end of Priest Lake (25 m.), 
which has fame among sportsmen and lovers of the 
Wild. 



EASTERN WASHINGTON. IDAHO LAKES 263 

At Sand Point, on the upper shores of Lake Pend 
d'Oreille, three railroads meet — the Great North- 
ern on its way to Glacier National Park; the 
Northern Pacific en route for Thompson Falls, 
Helena, the Yellowstone and St. Paul; and the 
Spokane International, over whose rails Canadian 
Pacific passengers travelling to Calgary, Kootenay 
Landing, et cetera, are routed north to Kingsgate, 
on the British Columbia frontier. 3 Any one of 
these railways, or the National Parks Highway, 
may be used for an excursion from Spokane to 
Lake Pend d'Oreille (70 m.). As a rule it is 
made a stop-over point on the way to or from 
Spokane. 

The French trappers who blazed the thickly 
wooded passes of Northern Idaho on expeditions 
back and forth between Spokane House and the 
buffalo prairies of Montana, remarked the length 
and narrow shape of the wavering lake which hangs 
down for 55 miles between two looping rivers. To 
them it resembled an ear-ring — a pend d'oreille, 
and so they called it. They might have thought it 
a pendant of malachite at the throat of the moun- 
tains, with the rivers as neck chain. But Ear- 
ring Lake it will always remain in memory of their 
passing. The north fork of the Clark River 
comes in below Sand Point, and the south fork en- 
ters 25 miles to the east at Garfield Bay, where the 

3 Spokane - Sand Point (70 m.) - Bonner's Ferry - Kings- 
gate (140 m.) - Cranbrook - Colvalli - Fernie - Macleod (360 
m.) -Calgary (468 m.). Kingsgate - Cranbrook - Colvalli - 
Bull River - Athalmere - Golden, 250 miles northeast. (See 
Note 4.) AC. P. R. branch to the west, Kingsgate - 
Kootenay Landing, connects with boat to Balfour, on 
Kootenay Lake, and Nelson, B. C. From Nelson, a rail- 
road and a steamer up the Arrow Lakes lead to Revel- 
stoke, on main C. P. R. transcontinental line, west of 
Golden. 



264 THE TOURIST'S NORTHWEST 

Northern Pacific trunk line swings around the up- 
per shore of the lake. Numerous other streams 
flow in from the wild ridges that divide Idaho from 
Montana, and which present a forbidding face to 
the water. There is no larger lake this side the 
Rockies, and few are more lovely. A steamer 
which sails from Sand Point village to Lakeview 
on the south bay, and to Bay View, connected by 
branch with the International trains, permits a 
leisurely accounting of its component beauties. A 
still lazier and a more rewarding means of trans- 
port is a boat, hired at Sand Point, or at the 
southern landings, and piloted as the will invites 
among restful coves, with a troll bobbing behind 
to bait the red-bellied char. 

.Spokane - Belton, west gate of Glacier National Park, by 
Great Northern Railway, 298 miles in 10 hours by morning 
express, via Newport, Sand Point, Bonner's Ferry, Libby, 
Mont., Rexford (213 m.) and Columbia Falls. 

Spokane -Glacier Park station (east gate) 358 miles. 

By National Park Highway, Spokane - Sand Point - Bon- 
ner's Ferry - Libby - Kalispell (in the Flathead Valley) 
-Belton (267 m.)-Lake McDonald (Apgars, 271 m.), 
over a superb piece of road-building, amid fine scenery all 
the way. From Belton, motor cars are freighted 57 miles 
to Glacier Park station at a cost of $10. 

At Bonner's Perry, situated in the lee of the 
Cabinet Mountains, east of Sand Point, the rails 
of the Great Northern cross the Kootenay River. 
This Anglo-American stream heads near the 
source of the Columbia, but flows south while the 
Columbia trends north. At Bonner's Ferry it has 
made its Big Bend into the United States and is 
on its way north to the lower Kootenay Lake. 
It is navigated from Bonner's Ferry to Kootenay 
Landing, Balfour (Canadian Pacific steamers) 
and Nelson, beyond which city it joins the Colum- 



EASTERN WASHINGTON. IDAHO LAKES 265 

bia. A Great Northern branch links Bonner's 
Feny with Creston, B. C, a station east of 
Kootenay Landing on the Canadian Pacific Crow's 
Nest Route. 

The route of the Spokane International Railway 
from Bonner's Ferry has already been indicated 
in Note 3. A Great Northern branch leads from 
Rexford into Canada. 4 Rexford is at the eastern 
junction of the main track with the riotous 
Kootenay, which here courses due south. The 
river takes three distinct directions during the 
span of a hundred miles between Bonner's Ferry 
and Rexford. 

The mountain views which the Bitter Root and 
Cabinet Ranges provide to the south are sue- 

4 This branch extends to Fernie, on the Crow's Nest Route 
of the Canadian Pacific Railway. Great Northern trans- 
continental expresses arrive at Rexford daily from the 
west and from the east. Every week-day the branch train 
leaves at 7 a. m. The route connecting the trunk line of 
the Great Northern with the trunk line of the Canadian 
Pacific is, Rexford -Elko (43 m., see below) - Fernie (62 
m.)-Macleod (167 m.) -Calgary (275 m.). Spokane - 
Calgary over this route, 488 miles. Calgary - Banff, 82 
miles west. Calgary - Edmonton, 193 miles north; Edmon- 
ton-Jasper on Grand Trunk Pacific, 234 miles west, en 
route to Prince Rupert, B. C. 

Passengers detraining at Elko, B. C, can proceed by the 
C. P. R. Wednesday or Saturday afternoon, 26 miles north- 
westward to Bull River. From this station, near which 
there is a country inn, a train leaves at 7:30 Thursday and 
Monday morning for Athalmer, 83 miles due north, in 
the Columbia Valley. Near-by there is an excellent hotel 
at Invermere. An automobile highway leads from this 
point through the Rockies to Banff, via Sinclair Canvon. 
Athalmer station - Golden, on main C. P. R. line, *100 
miles. Golden - Glacier, B. C. (50 m.) - Revelstoke (95 
m.)» en route west to Vancouver (475 m.). Golden -Field 
(35 m.)-Lake Louise (55 m.) - Banff (90 m.), en route 
east to Calgary (172 m.). 

From Bull River or Cranbrook (Note 3), a smooth high- 
way follows the Kootenay and Columbia Valleys to Inver- 
mere and to Golden. 



966 THE TOURIST'S NORTHWEST 

ceeded by the majestic Rockies as we speed east- 
ward and upward from Rexford to Trego, Vista 
and Whitefish (3000 ft). The hills all about are 
sought for their minerals and big game. From the 
forest and orchard region that surrounds Col- 
umbia Falls, a short spur gives rail transporta- 
tion to Kalispell, a busy industrial town near the 
upper shore of the great Flathead Lake. 

Beyond Columbia Falls, the railway bridges the 
main stream of the southward-flowing Flathead, 
and follows the Middle Fork to Belton (3200 ft.). 
Gradually ascending along the edge of the branch 
stream which forms part of the south boundary 
of the National Park, the railroad reaches Java 
(3985 ft.) and Marias Pass (5200 ft). Through 
the latter gap it crosses the Rocky Mountains. 
Glacier Park station, 700 miles from Puget Sound, 
1100 miles from St. Paul, is on the east slope of 
the Divide at an altitude of 4800 feet. 

Beyond Glacier Park, the Great Northern traverses Mon- 
tana and crosses southward through North Dakota to St. 
Paul. Branches from stations east of the Park serve Great 
Falls, Helena and Billings, Montana. 

A short route into Canada is provided by the Great North- 
ern branch from Virden, 70 miles east of the Park. The 
terminus is at Sweet Grass, from which there is connection 
with Lethbridge, Alberta, Macleod and Calgary (see Notes 
3 and 4, this chapter). 



CHAPTER XI 

GLACIER NATIONAL PARKi 



A segment of the Rockies sixty miles long by 
forty wide, extending from the Canadian boundary 
through an upper corner of Montana to the rails 
of the Great Northern Road, and from the Flat- 
head River on the west to the Blackfeet country 
on the east was in 1910 decreed a vacation reserve 
for the nation. Longer ago than brown men's 
annals can define, this tract of invincible crests 
and icy ravines, of lakes and alpine meads was 
the range of hunting and warring Blackfeet. 
Among secret crags and on the banks of milky 
rivers they surprised antelope, goat, moose, bear 
and sheep; on the mountain slopes they slaugh- 
tered buffalo, " herds at a single chase," and by 
all tribes of prairie and hill were envied for their 
prosperity. 

To-day, something less than 3000 descendants 
of this once autocratic race are immured on a bar- 
ren Reserve where they breed and rope bands 
of cattle instead of pursuing wild game and are 
instructed in the cultivation of irrigated farms. 

i See under " Transportation," " Routes " and " Motor- 
ways," Chapter I, and under " Hotels," Chapter II. For 
routes from Canada, see Notes 3 and 4 of Chapter X, and 
last paragraph in fine print at end of same chapter. 



268 THE TOURIST'S NORTHWEST 

Gorgeously feathered and beaded, they some- 
times appear at the Glacier Park hotels. 

In the 1914 number of the official organ of the 
" Mountaineers " of Washington, Willis Gibson 
gives the following interesting chronology con- 
cerning this northernmost section of the United 
States Rockies. 

" Eighteen hundred and fifteen is the first au- 
thentic date that can be set down in the history 
of the Glacier Park country. In that year Hugh 
Monroe, a youth of seventeen, commissioned to 
establish trade relations with the Blackfeet hunt- 
ers, arrived from the north ; with a Blackfeet party 
he visited the St. Mary Lakes, and became the 
first white man to glimpse the mountains of Glacier 
Park. Monroe took up his abode with the Black- 
feet, married a Blackfeet maiden, and was given 
the name of Rising Wolf — for him, in later years, 
Rising Wolf Mountain was named. In 1846, 
while accompanied by the missionary Father de 
Smet, Monroe christened the St. Mary Lakes. 
During the sixties and seventies Monroe, now be- 
came a free trader, in company with his family, 
maintained a permanent camp at the mouth of the 
Swiftcurrent. Monroe, however, at no time was 
an explorer or a mountain climber ; during his life 
he penetrated into the present park only for in- 
significant distances. 

" In 1869, a little party of prospectors, Joseph 
Kipp, John Wrenn, Charles Thomas, and another, 
bound from Fort Benton to Canada and following 
the Rocky Mountain trail, made a detour to the 
head of Upper St. Mary Lake — after Monroe, 
the first white men to glimpse the peaks 'round- 
about Going-to-the-Sun Camp. 



GLACIER NATIONAL PARK 269 

" The years of the late seventies and the early 
eighties were important years in the history of the 
Glacier Park region. They marked the passing 
of the Blackfeet as the overlords of the Montana 
Rockies, the establishing by Uncle Sam of that 
tribe on the Blackfeet Reservation, and the mak- 
ing of treaties between the several interested tribes 
and the Government that transformed northern 
Montana, and Glacier Park's mountains along with 
it, from Indian territory into Government lands, 
and led, later on, to the mountains being incor- 
porated into the Flathead National Forest. 

" The early eighties were notable also because 
it was in this period that J. W. Schultz and Dr. 
George Bird Grinnell took the first steps toward 
the exploration of the Glacier Park mountains. 
Schultz, a sportsman, writer, and " out-of-doors " 
man, in 1882 settled on the Blackfeet Reservation 
with the purpose of making a book about that 
tribe, and in the autumn of that year paid a visit 
to the St. Mary Lakes, and climbed and named 
Flattop Mountain. Much impressed with the re- 
gion, Schultz interested Grinnell, then the owner 
of Forest and Stream, and between 1883 and 1888 
Schultz and Grinnell in successive expeditions — 
accompanied at different times by George Gould 
of Santa Barbara, Henry L. Stimson, in after 
years Secretary of War ; Lieut. J. H. Beacom, U. 
S. A.; J. B. Monroe, William Jackson, Wm. 
H. Seward, Jr., and Yellow Fish of the Blackfeet 
tribe — thoroughly explored a good share of the 
Park on the eastern side of and along the summit 
of the Continental Divide, scaled a great many of 
the Park's mountains and glaciers, and gave to 
many of the peaks the names that they bear to- 
day. A Schultz-Grinnell party in 1884 accom- 



270 THE TOURIST'S NORTHWEST 

plished a successful expedition to the headwaters 
of the Swiftcurrent, in the course of which Grin- 
nell Glacier and Grinnell Mountain were named 
in honor of Grinnell, and Appekunny Mountain 
was christened after Schultz, Appekunny ( Spotted 
Robe) being the name given him by the Blackfeet. 
In 1888, again, a Schultz-Grinnell expedition car- 
ried out another noteworthy exploration — this 
time of the mountains about the headwaters of the 
St. Mary River. Gould Mountain, Stimson 
Mountain, Seward Mountain, and Mount Jackson 
perpetuate the members of these parties. By 
their writings concerning their discoveries and ad- 
ventures during these years Schultz and Grinnell 
did much to acquaint the people of the United 
States with the wonders of the Glacier Park re- 
gion. 

" In the early nineties the Great Northern Rail- 
way came to the Glacier Park country. On its 
way westward from St. Paul to Seattle the Great 
Northern carried its transcontinental track up 
the Marias River to Marias Pass in the Continen- 
tal Divide, and thence pushed it on westward 
through the main range of the Rockies, following 
first Bear Creek and afterward the middle fork 
of the Flathead River, and so for some sixty miles 
skirted the south peaks of Glacier Park's moun- 
tains. 

" As a result of the coming of the railway Lake 
McDonald, on account of its nearness to Belton 
station, became the objective for occasional sports- 
men and sightseers ; the Glacier Park region began 
to become more or less known as the Lake Mc- 
Donald country. 

" In 1895 Dr. Lyman B. Sperry, a pioneer c See- 
America-First ' man, originally a professor at 




ROAD AND TRAIL MAP OF GLACIER NATIONAL PARK 



GLACIER NATIONAL PARK 071 

Oberlin College, and later a writer and lecturer 
of note on travel, visited Lake McDonald. For 
eleven years after that Dr. Sperry was a tireless 
and invaluable campaigner on behalf of the Glacier 
Park region — through the summers an enthu- 
siastic guide to the mountains and glaciers, and 
through the winters, both from the lecture plat- 
form and in the press, an eloquent disseminator 
of publicity concerning them. Dr. Sperry super- 
intended and with his own hands built much of the 
horse-trail from Lake McDonald up to the glacier 
which was named for him, and also co-operated 
with the forest rangers in the construction of the 
first trail across Gunsight Pass. He was one of 
the first to advocate Glacier Park. 

" In 1905 the movement toward the creation of 
Glacier National Park began to take shape in 
earnest. Because of the relative familiarity of 
the people at large with that section of the re- 
gion, it was at first proposed to set aside only 
Lake McDonald and the peaks immediately on the 
north and east of it ; however, through the efforts 
of those who had adventured through the wonder- 
ful land along the crest of the Divide and on the 
east side of it, the boundaries of the proposed na- 
tional playground were presently fixed as they are 
to-dajr. The original bill for the creation of the 
Park was introduced in the United States Senate 
by Senator Carter of Montana in 1907. After 
nearly three years of strenuous effort on the part 
of its friends, the Park bill became a statute on 
May 11, 1910, and Glacier National Park became 
an actuality." 

As the Government is the parent, so has Louis 
W. Hill of St. Paul been the genial and sagacious 



m THE TOURIST'S NORTHWEST 

god-father of the newly created concourse of 
mountain resorts. Under his wise ruling the 
Great Northern Railway first devised a massive 
rustic caravanserai at the eastern entrance, and 
then erected at subsidiary touring bases nearly a 
dozen groups of lodges within a day's walk of one 
another, and three tepee camps, each provided with 
a communal living room and kitchen free to camp- 
ers. Fifty miles north of the east gate, another 
hotel, remarkable in design and spacious in size 
and welcome, commands trails to the Divide and to 
many glaciers, whose proximity influenced the be- 
stowal of its name. On either side of the Con- 
tinental Ridge which marks the centre of the Park, 
bridle-paths have been fashioned to link lakes, 
passes, glaciers and principal peaks to the scat- 
tered inns. A short wagon-road connects Belton 
Chalets, at the west gate, with an independent 
cabin resort at the foot of Lake McDonald (stage 
from the station) ; and a long highway with its 
branches, joins Glacier Park Hotel to the chalets 
on Two Medicine Lake, Cut Bank River and St. 
Mary Lake, and goes all the way from the main 
entrance to Many Glacier Hotel, on Lake Mc- 
Dermott. For a great part of its 50-mile course, 
the latter road runs outside the bounds of the 
Park through the Indian Reserve, but in full view 
of the massed ridges of the Divide. 

Passengers from the west may leave the train 
at Belton and cover the Lake McDonald territory 
by boat and pony-back (see page 275) before con- 
tinuing to Glacier Park station, 57 miles distant 
by rail, where popular excursions are begun by 
stage, supplemented by launch and saddle-horse 
as desired. If trails from Lake McDonald are to 
be pursued on foot or in the saddle to camps on 



GLACIER NATIONAL PARK 273 

the eastern slope of the Divide, all baggage ex- 
cept mountaineer kits and costumes should be for- 
warded from Belton to Glacier Park station, there 
to be picked up at the end of the tour. 

The Lake McDonald country was discovered by 
Sir John McDonald, the Canadian statesman who 
in blazing a primitive trail founded the work con- 
tinued by Dr. Sperry. The launch ride of 10 
miles from the settlement at the lower end of the 
narrow strip of dazzling water to Lewis' Hotel and 
Geduhn's at the upper end (fare one way, 75 
cents) is notable for the reflections of overshad- 
owing heights on the clear surface, and for views 
of the noble summits which compose the range 
about Gunsight Pass. This is the shortest route 
to Sperry Glacier and to Avalanche Lake, which 
receives the outflow of the great ice-pack. Sperry 
Chalet, on the road to the Glacier, is situated 7 
miles from Lewis' Hotel, 2 under the eaves of the 
stratified wall which forms the south side of the 
amphitheatre. An ingenious path leads to the 
crest and down upon the snowfields which cover an 
area of 3 square miles at an elevation of over 
8000 feet. This chalet is also the half-way house 
to Lake Ellen Wilson, to Gunsight Pass and to the 
Gunsight Chalets. The latter, and the magnifi- 
cent heights above are usually reached by saddle- 
trail from Going-to-the Sun Chalets, at the west 
end of St. Mary Lake. 

Routes less frequently travelled from Lake Mc- 
Donald lead off to the moose barrens about the 
Flathead River, to fishing waters below the sub- 
lime Heaven's Peak, and less far afield, up the Mc- 
Donald River to Swiftcurrent Pass (14 m.), 
through the meadows below the radiant steep called 

2 Horse, guide and guide's horse $7 a day. See page 276. 



274 THE TOURIST'S NORTHWEST 

the Garden Wall. This way, by Granite Park 
Chalets, continues the frequented trail to McDer- 
mott Lake and the Many Glacier Hotel (8m.). 

Reference to the map of the Park will indicate 
with what facility leisurely semi-circular tours 
may be achieved from Lake McDonald, across the 
Divide and southeastward to Glacier Park station, 
or in the reverse direction. 

Tourists, in haste, or tourists disinclined to the 
trail have but to command a seat in a covered 
motor-bus to gain a comprehensive vision of the 
eastern half of this luminously tinted, stupen- 
dously cragged, God-planned and man-improved 
pleasure ground. Stages leave Glacier Park 
Hotel twice every day for the St. Mary Lake 
Chalets (82 m.) and the Many Glacier Llotel, 18 
miles beyond. Return fare, $11. From the 
chalets a double-deck launch leaves on the arrival 
of the morning and the afternoon stage for an 
hour's run of nine enchanting miles westward to 
Going-to-the-Sun Chalets. Round trip, $1.50. 
Passengers by the morning launch may return to 
the east end of the lake in time to continue the 
same day to the Many Glacier. If the lake trip 
is omitted, tourists very much hurried can leave 
Glacier Park Hotel in the morning for the Many 
Glacier Hotel, remain there a half hour and re- 
turn in time to dine and catch an evening train 
out from Glacier Park station. Though it is little 
less than sacrilege to suggest so brief a trip, yet a 
hundred-mile drive among such glories as these 
is not to be scorned, if one is so unfortunate as to 
be confined to a schedule which permits only a 
fleeting day's view. A week of tours will scarcely 



GLACIER NATIONAL PARK 275 

acquaint one with more than the high lights of the 
Park picture. 

A short stage trip may be taken from Glacier 
Park Hotel to Two Medicine Lake, and so ar- 
ranged as to consume one or two days. The dis- 
tance one way is 12 miles, and the fare $3. The 
road to the lake branches from the main highway 
a short distance beyond the Hotel. Another fork 
of the highway reaches Cut Bank Chalets (22 m.), 
and a third turns off near St. Mary Lake to Red 
Eagle Lake. Seven-passenger touring cars may 
be rented at the rate of $6 an hour. 

Regular tours by saddle-horse are conducted 
daily from the chief tourist centres at a fixed rate 
per capita, including guide. Guides and horses 
are also for hire by the day. 

Rates for lodging and transportation within the Park 
are given in minute detail in the " Hotel and Tours " 
folder distributed free to inquirers by the Great Northern 
Railway, St. Paul. (Chicago office, 210 South Clark Street; 
New York office, 1184 Broadway.) Minimum American 
plan terms at the two large hotels are $4 per day; at the 
chalets, $3 per day. At the hotels, European rates are 
$1 each for bed and meals; at the chalets, 75 cents is 
charged for the same accommodation. At the tepee camps 
on St. Mary Lake and Lake McDermott, a heated tent 
for two may be rented furnished for $1 a day (single cots, 
50 cents), and a completely equipped cabin is provided 
where meals can be prepared and served by guests who 
prefer to enjoy the Park an nature!. Stores are attached 
to all chalets from which campers, fishermen and pedestri- 
ans stock their larders at moderate prices. 

Walking tours are suggested in a booklet, "With the 
'Mountaineers' in Glacier National Park," issued by the 
railway. Walking tourists are not required to take a guide. 

One-day saddle-horse tours from hotels and chalets, in- 
cluding tourist's horse, guide and guide's horse, are sched- 
uled at an average fixed rate of $3.50 per person. Saddle 
tourists who choose their own routes pay $2 per day for 
a horse, but in every case the Government stipulates that 
a guide must be taken, which increases the cost by $5 a 



276 THE TOURIST'S NORTHWEST 

day. This charge for the guide, his horse and board may- 
be divided among six persons. On half a dozen of the 
shorter excursions a guide is permitted to accompany up 
to nine persons, one such trip being the one from the Lewis 
Hotel on Lake McDonald to Sperry Chalets, and another, 
the one from Many Glacier Hotel to Iceberg Lake. 

The chalet groups are so arranged in respect to their 
distance apart that tourists a-horSe or a-foot, can lodge 
under cover each night, and take with them basket lunches 
prepared at the inn. (See the "Hotel and Tours" folder 
for an outline of such an excursion by horse-back lasting 
twelve days.) Or, if preferred, pack-horses may be en- 
gaged at $2 a day each to carry camping equipment. Eight 
persons or more can camp and ride together for ten days 
at a cost per capita of $68. This rate provides for guides, 
packers, cooks, all necessary horses, tents and provender. 
Bedding is extra, but may be rented from the outfitter. 
If the party includes less than eight, the proportionate 
charge is greater. The rate for four persons is $9.10 per 
day for ten days or more up to thirty days; the rate for 
one person $19.50. The Park Saddle Horse Company will 
also quote terms for camping trips of less than ten days 
or more than thirty days' duration. 

Daily tours between June 15th and October 1st at a fixed 
inclusive price for transportation by stage, by stage and 
launch, or by stage, launch and saddle-horse are adver- 
tised from the Glacier Park Hotel, lasting from one to 
seven days. A two-day tour much in favor includes the 
stage ride of 30 miles to the eastern end of St. Mary 
Lake, and around Lower St. Mary Lake to the Many 
Glacier Hotel; the return ride by stage to St. Mary, the 
lake excursion to the Going-to-the-Sun Chalets and back, 
and the final lap by road to Glacier Park Hotel. The 
cost for auto-stage and launch is $12.50 and the expense 
for lodging and four meals en route, $4.75. 

A five-day excursion especially to be recommended is the 
one which comprises the stage trip from Glacier Park 
Hotel to Many Glacier Hotel on Lake McDermott; sad- 
dle-horse to Iceberg Lake, to Swiftcurrent Pass and Gran- 
ite Park Chalets; along the top of the Divide by Piegan 
Pass trail and down to Going-to-the-Sun Chalets, at the 
west end of St. Mary Lake; launch to St. Mary Chalets, 
and stage back to Glacier Park Hotel. For this tour the 
transportation expense is $19.25 and the living expense 
for four days and a fraction, about $15. A week's tour, 
which adds to the foregoing the trips to Cracker Lake, 
Gunsight Chalets and Blackfeet Glacier, costs $27.75 for 
transportation and $22 for lodging and meals. At an ex- 
pense of $7 a day for seven days, one may therefore see 
the outstanding features of the Park. 



GLACIER NATIONAL PARK 277 

A three-day fishing trip taken in parties of three or more 
by horse from Glacier Park Hotel to Cut Bank Chalets 
and River is scheduled at $11 for the horse, and $6.75 
for food and bed. Under "Sports," Chapter Two, some- 
thing is said of the fish to be caught in Park waters and 
information is given concerning Montana licenses. The 
Great Northern also publishes a pamphlet for anglers. 
Glacier National Park has been called "the greatest elk 
range on the continent." Big-Horn sheep, bear, goat, ptar- 
migan and other game abound, but all hunting is forbidden 
by the Government. 

Riding attire, stout boots, sweaters and shade hats are 
appropriate for Park trails, and are permissible at even 
the hotel dinner-table. 

A charge is made for all baggage transferred, excepting 
one piece weighing 20 pounds or less, which is allowed 
each stage passenger. Storage charges are waived at the 
station, while passengers are touring the Park, a detail 
which is characteristic of the Railway Company's thought 
for the convenience of its guests in all things. 

Automobilists arriving at the east entrance may drive their 
own cars from the Glacier Park to Many Glacier Hotel 
and back, ship them by freight at a cost of $10, from the 
east to the west entrance, and from Belton continue 3 
miles to Lake McDonald, or to Spokane via Kalispell. 

Something of the magnitude of this mountain 
realm is indicated by the statement that within 
the Park limits, which bound 1500 square miles, 
there are fifteen named peaks having an altitude 
of over 7000 feet, forty over 8000 feet above the 
sea, twenty-five over 9000 feet and four whose 
elevation is 10,000 feet and over. More than 
seventy glaciers small and large fill cirque and 
gully from which countless creeks, lakes and catar- 
acts arise. Swung between the ice-hung granite 
of mighty elevations are rounded valley floors, 
wrought with ferns and slender pines, and banked 
with varied mosses, queen's cup, heather, holly- 
hock, paint-brush, lily and flowering grass so thick 
that in certain glacier-watered meadows one must 
guide his horse carefully not to crush beds of nod- 
ding blooms. 



278 THE TOURIST'S NORTHWEST 

The white air of these altitudes deepens the 
colours of the rocks which rise like citadels above 
the wild swards, and accents their sharp outlines. 
These are not the harmonious cones capoted in 
white that the Cascades show us. The Rockies 
are masculine in gender, as Hood and St. Helens 
are the female of the mountain race. Here we 
consort with brusque big brothers, stubborn, thick- 
ribbed, with shoulders broad and knurly jostling 
shoulders with high straight blades. In summer 
their crowded pates are nearly bare of snow and 
stand in dark relief against the Rocky Mountain 
hue of the arch above. If we would become famil- 
iar enough with the stalwarts to hail them as fel- 
lows we must dwell long enough upon them and 
about their feet to understand their structure, to 
fathom their moods in sun and shadow, to detect 
in their rough-hewn sides the tender tones that 
dawn reveals, as some soft memory gentles the lines 
of a strong man's face. 

The blue brides of the mountains are the lakes 
that lie in their tense embrace. A sparkling co- 
terie entices us to the triple expanses where chiefs 
had their Medicine Lodges, and beyond Rising 
Wolf Mountain to the lakes below Dawson Pass 
and Cut Rank Pass. The largest of the Twin 
Medicine Lakes is girded by a rugose range that 
thrusts in acute angles from the water and doubles 
on the glossy surface. The result is a row of 
rough grey diamonds, with the shore line drawn 
through their middle. A little way from the lodge 
is a high rocky dell with a magic waterfall. In 
the late summer it hangs from the centre of a cliff 
like a frothy tongue from some creature's wide 
mouth, but in May or June it romps over the brim 
of the cliff and tumbles near a hundred feet. The 



GLACIER NATIONAL PARK 279 

stream is the Two Medicine River. When its 
flood is low. it seeks a lower level through a chan- 
nel under the earth and emerges by a short cut 
through the rock. 

The Mountaineers laid their course during the 
trek of 1914 past Two Medicine Lakes, over the 
Divide by Dawson Pass (7500 ft.) and Red Eagle 
Pass, and on to Gunsight Lake in sight of Black- 
feet, king of the Park glaciers. Those who fol- 
low their trail must go at least part of the way on 
foot. Mt. Stimson, second highest of the Park's 
pinnacles, towers above the path to the south, 
Triple Divide Peak to the north. The latter con- 
tributes a creek to three seas, Cut Bank to Hud- 
son's Bay, Red Eagle to the Gulf of Mexico, and 
Xyack to the Pacific. The road from the main 
highway to Cut Bank Chalets leads toward this 
eccentric summit. The Continental spine curves 
directly to the west here to Blackfeet Glacier and 
swerves north again at Gunsight Pass and Sperry 
Glacier. 

Gunsight Pass and the astounding views that 
have made it known to mountain wayfarers the 
world over is the principal excursion from the 
head of St. Mary Lake. This slim waterway, 
reached by road, as already outlined, penetrates 
the east slope from the hilly plains of the Reser- 
vation to the base of the loveliest rainbowed ramp 
of all, — Going-to-the-Sun. Following the mas- 
sive shores from St. Mary Chalets, we discern 
above us peaks Indian-named, lofty, abrupt, 
spurred and turreted — Single Shot, because here 
Grinnell brought down a mazama with one try, 
Whitefish, Red Eagle, Little Chief, Goat. South 
of the windy crown of Red Eagle runs a road 
to a lake, and a trail from the lake to a glacier 



280 THE TOURIST'S NORTHWEST 

and pass that also bear the name Red Eagle. By 
this route one arrives at Chief Falls, one of the 
Park's two cataracts whose leap is three-quarters 
the height of Yosemite Falls. Behind Little Chief 
Mountain looms Almost-a-Dog, named for a brave 
66 who growled at his small portion of bear meat," 
if one accepts the tale of a certain Stetson-hatted 
" outer," always willing to oblige with a legend, 
punctuated by a twinkle of his mountain blue eye. 
The gabled cabins, above the St. Mary's landing 
cling to a gnarled slope that faces the organ pipes 
of Little Chief, and is sentinelled by Going-to-the- 
Sun. 

The Blackfeet say this rock of tangled hues, 
banded with lavender, meshed with saffron and 
trimmed about the base with bottle-green trees, 
was chosen by the Great Spirit as the medium 
which should keep in memory his visitation from 
the Sun Lodge to the Earth, when all things wise 
and good were taught the Blackfeet. The profile 
outlined upon the inclined ridge represents the 
features of the one who-went-back-to-the-Sun- 
after-his-work-was-done among his tribes. 

A 9-mile trail follows the St. Mary River past 
Citadel Mountain and the Piegan Pass trail to 
Gunsight Chalets and Gunsight Lake, an ice-fed 
little pool at 5000 feet elevation, enclosed by a 
wall of awesome height and splendid chiselling. 
The path that winds 3 miles up the slope of 
Mt. Jackson (10,023 ft.) leads away from the 
inn to Blackfeet Glacier, a vast spread of ice on 
the east face of Jackson, and goes on to the far- 
viewing Gunsight Pass (6800 ft.). Harrison 
Glacier lies below the south crest of Mt. Jackson. 
Four miles over the Pass and down the west side 
of the Divide is Sperry Glacier. Though insig- 





Kiser Photo. Co. for Great Northern Railway 
LOOKIXG FROM GUNSIGHT LAKE, GLACIER NATIONAL 
PARK. FROM LEFT TO RIGEIT, PIEGAX ML, GOING-TO- 
THE-SUN ML, GOAT ML. MT. CITADEL 



GLACIER NATIONAL PARK 281 

nificant little spots of moraine-dusted ice com- 
pared with the largest glaciers of Alaska, these 
grinding ice rivers offer as good a lesson as any 
in glacial processes. Snow, as Coleman 3 reminds 
us, " accumulates only on the gentler slopes or in 
the higher valleys. . . . The final disposal of the 
snowfield, turned to ice in its lower parts, comes 
by a slow creep downwards. . . . Remembering 
that ice is a hard and brittle solid, it comes as a 
surprise to find that it can flow like a plastic body 
under the pull of gravity. . . . 

" At a sudden descent, where a river would leap 
as a waterfall, a glacier simply breaks across in 
what are called crevasses, fissures which may be 
several feet wide and hundreds of feet long, going 
down to blue-black depths appalling to the inex- 
perienced climber. As the glacier advances these 
crevasses are bent out of shape and may be crossed 
by fresh crevasses, splitting up the ice into wild 
lumps and pinnacles called seracs. . . . 

" When the sun shines warmly on the glacier, 
melting begins and water trickles down the ice 
ridges, and towards afternoon torrents of pale 
blue water are racing downwards in ice channels, 
here and there plunging into a crevasse. This 
becomes hollowed into a tube like the penstock of 
a water power and the foamy torrent springing in- 
to the blue chasm is called a 6 moulin,' or mill. In 
this way the waters thawed from the surface reach 
the bottom and there roar along through an ice 
tunnel to the end of the glacier, bursting into day- 
light as a full fledged river. 

3 A. P. Coleman, M.A., Ph.D., F.R.S., author of The 
Canadian Rockies, and of a pamphlet, Glaciers of the Rock- 
ies and Selkirks, published under the direction of the Cana- 
dian Minister of the Interior. 



282 THE TOURIST'S NORTHWEST 

" One of the most interesting points in a glacier 
is its carrying power. Though it is in motion 
like a plastic substance it is solid and strong 
enough to support any weight loaded upon it. 
Debris quarried by frost from the mountain side 
buries its edge so that often one may walk 50 
3'ards out before the ice can be seen. This fringe 
of broken rock carried on the edge of the glacier 
is called a marginal moraine. When two glaciers 
join, the marginal moraines between them unite 
to form a medial moraine, and when several tribu- 
taries combine to make a large glacier the dark 
lines of the medial moraines can be followed by the 
eye for long distances upwards to rocky peaks 
rising out of the neve, the source from which the 
train of rocks was derived. 

" Blocks even as large as cottages now and then 
roll down upon the ice and are transported without 
trouble. Medium sized blocks a few feet across 
called ' glacier tables ' are left standing on pedes- 
tals of ice, as thawing goes on all round them, 
since they protect the ice beneath from the sun. 

" The whole mass of stony material is carried 
steadily onwards until the end is reached where 
melting is complete and no more burdens can be 
borne. Then a terminal moraine is piled up, a 
steep and rugged crescent of loose blocks by no 
means easy to scramble over. 

" Work just as important is going on out of 
sight beneath the glacier, where fragments of stone 
frozen into the bottom of the ice form tools for 
gouging, carving and scouring the rocky floor, 
both tools and rock being ground up into the 
6 rock flour ' that makes the glacier streams so 
milky and opaque. 



GLACIER NATIONAL PARK 283 

" Cur glaciers, like those of other countries, are 
now almost all in retreat, either because the cli- 
mate is slowly growing warmer so that thawing 
goes on faster or because the snowfall is lessening 
so that the neve fields no longer feed the glaciers 
as substantially as before. On this account one 
can often see several terminal moraines down the 
valley below the one now forming. The nearest 
to the present end of the ice is almost bare, the 
next, a few hundred yards away, may have bushes 
growing on it, and others a mile or two away may 

be covered with ancient forest. 

• ••■•«•• 

" Glaciers once filled all the mountain valleys and 
even pushed out through the passes into the 
prairies and through the fiords to the sea, for 
everywhere one finds boulder clay and moraines 
and valleys with U shaped cross sections that can 
only be accounted for by glacial action on a large 
scale. This work was done during the Ice Age, 
and one may truly say that the higher mountains 
are still in the Glacial Period. 

" One of the most beautiful results of former ice 
action is to be found in the cirques, half Kettle or 
arm chair valleys, high up among the mountains 
overhanging the main valleys and enclosed by 
vertical cliffs on all sides except in front. These 
are the deserted nests of cliff glaciers, hollowed 
out by the ice itself and often deepened so that a 
turquoise blue lake lies within rock rims. If not 
too high up these cirque lakes are surrounded by 
evergreen forest, behind which rise the grey or 
purple walls of rock with some snow in the ravines 
above, the whole mirrored in the lake, until some 
catspaw of breeze shatters the reflection." 



284 THE TOURIST'S NORTHWEST 

As indicated in the paragraphs relating to tours 
in the Lake McDonald country, Sperry Chalet is 
close by the glacier, and distant 7 miles from the 
head of the lake down which one may sail to Bel- 
ton. 

East of the Divide again, and half-way be- 
tween Gunsight and Going-to-the-Sun Chalets, we 
turn into a ravishing meadow-path to Piegan Pass, 
and travel the Divide from south to north. From 
Piegan Mountain the panorama includes a covey 
of serrated domes dominated by Siyeh (10,000 ft.) 
and ,the sheer Continental crest of the Garden 
Wall. Lakes glimmer in their bowl-like beds, the 
ragged steeps about us are flecked with lingering 
drifts. Something we mistake for a speck of snow 
moves on a distant ledge and rises to survey us. 
Hornaday says the mountain goat is in some 
respects " the bravest and hardiest of our hoofed 
animals, and the only one that is practically de- 
void of fear." He asserts that " no animal hoofed 
or clawed " can surpass the feats of " the crag- 
master." " Certainly there is no American quad- 
ruped, not even the bold and hardy mountain 
sheep," this authority declares, " which will with 
the utmost indifference climb an eighty-degree 
precipice, or jog across the face of a five-hun- 
dred-foot wall on a footing so narrow and uncer- 
tain that the strongest glass cannot detect it." 

Glacier Park goats are particularly callous 
to intrusion now that the Government has barred 
the gates to hunters and the tourist has taken 
up the Blackfeet's trail. But our snow-patch 
stands stiffly with head lowered, menacingly re- 
sentful of our passage. . . . Then we perceive the 
reason. Two smaller specks move into view and 



GLACIER NATIONAL PARK 285 

share the cranny with the shaggy bulk that is their 
mother. . . . 

Below the mazama's lair the path divides. One 
way leads by Cracker Lake to Altyn and the Many 
Glacier; the other follows past Grinnell Glacier 
to Lake McDermott and the pleasant rambling 
hospice. 

Those who come to the Many Glacier Hotel by 
the stage road have lakes by the wayside for many 
of the miles from St. Mary. But lakes of moder- 
ate attraction compared with McDermott. The 
latter's chief inspiration is the mountain Grinnell, 
whose eastern face is a pyramidal tower which 
makes an inverted V against the sky. Other 
mountains keep their distance. It stands alone, 
and from the road behind the hotel seems to rise 
like a steeple such as never was above a roof. 
Of the purest contour mountain could attain, it 
reproves the irregular cumulations which crowd 
about the lake. In Altyn Peak it has a fair imi- 
tator, another in Mt. Rockwell on Two Medicine 
Lake, and still another in Tusselade Mountain, 
which lifts its cleft spire above St. Mary Meadows. 
But none of these rivals in pointed symmetry the 
peak that faces the Many Glacier. 

Whether housed in the novel hostelry whose 
linked units long drawn out extend a tenth of a 
mile from an assembly court, tapestried in bear- 
skins and pillared by trees and totem poles, to a 
white and copper kitchen, or whether a neighbour- 
ing chalet claims you down by the falls, or a floored 
tepee by the upper shore of the lake, whether you 
spend your days in the saddle or on a foot-path, 
or sit dreamily on a balcony seeing visions em- 



286 THE TOURIST'S NORTHWEST 

bodied in rock and bright water, you will keep in a 
separate memory chest your stay in the heart of 
Glacier Park. If the trail lures you, let it lead 
one day to the lakelet in a marvellous concave 
basin where a miniature glacier plays at making 
bergs, and on another day to Cracker Lake whose 
source is in Siyeh's glacier. Perhaps you will 
climb Siyeh for the overwhelming view of crests 
unnumbered. 

No one will willingly miss the best trip of all, 
up the Swiftcurrent River between Grinnell and 
Wilbur to Swiftcurrent Pass (9000 ft.), which 
commands the master view obtainable from a Park 
trail. To the east is a giant trough of gleaming 
oval ponds separated by strips of forest, and 
stretching from the biggest pond, which is Lake 
McDermott, to the Indian lands. On either 
side stand crags on parade arrayed in Joseph 
coats of red and yellow strata. Turning to the 
north, Chief Mountain and Mt. Cleveland are 
glimpsed on lonely picket-post. Cleveland (10,- 
400 ft.) is the highest and the most remote of the 
Park's rugged legion. Westward, nun-like as its 
name, Heaven's Peak breaks from the embrace of 
clambering pines and lifts its white head in placid 
contemplation of restless juts and pinnacles. 

Granite Park Chalets, just west of the Pass, 
offer the typical hospitality of all these Great 
Northern inns. Like the others they are the resort 
of anglers, mountaineers, tourists, guides, — all 
brothers in the broad fraternity of the mountains. 
Conversation dwells on trout and botany, glacier 
climbs, flap-jack recipes and how best to set a 
tepee's poles. A thrilly bear story is matched 
against a Blackfeet legend, as twilight passes and 
Heaven's Peak puts off her hood of white for one 






GLACIER NATIONAL PARK 287 

of mauve. Night softens the angles that mark the 
Garden Wall and blots out its mighty cliff. . . . 
The group yawns and climbs to snug chambers 
beneath the weighted roof. Soon the inn is still 
with the stillness of high places. The only sound 
is the distant speech of many waters, and the 
tinkle of the bell-mare moving in the field. . . . 



BRITISH COLUMBIA AND ALBERTA 



CHAPTER XII 

GENERAL INFORMATION CONCERNING 
THE CANADIAN NORTHWEST 

Transportation — Routes — Customs. 

Railways and Steamers in the Canadian Northwest. 

Tours — Tourist Bureaux — Conveyances. 

Money — Postage. 

Climate and Seasons. 



Transportation and Routes. 

Across Canada, and into Canada from the United States. 

Canada has three transcontinental railroad lines. 
One, the Canadian Pacific, traverses plain and 
mountain daily on its own rails from Halifax to 
Vancouver. A second, comprised of two Govern- 
ment roads and the Grand Trunk System, now 
offers through connection by a northern route be- 
tween the Nova Scotia capital and Prince Rupert 
on the Pacific. The new Canadian Northern line 
across the continent runs from Toronto to Van- 
couver. The inaugural express was despatched 
in October, 1915. 

In the phrase of Sir Wilfred Laurier, the Grand 
Trunk and the Canadian Northern Roads have 
by their completion " rolled back the map of 
Canada two hundred miles." Within ten years 
the Dominion's railway mileage has increased fifty 
per cent., and its passenger traffic doubled. When 

it was proposed in 1880 that the Canadian Pacific 

291 



292 THE TOURIST'S NORTHWEST 

Railway Company construct for the Government 
a highway to the coast, it was declared by some 
" a useless enterprise, to go down in history as one 
of the greatest blunders in the Dominion," because 
it was believed that " nothing — not even a blade 
of corn " would ripen in the country to be crossed. 
Steel was laid despite pessimistic prophecy and 
huge engineering difficulties, and laid within five 
years instead of the ten stipulated in the con- 
tract. In November, 1885, the first trains 
crossed the Canadian Rockies over the completed 
$300,000,000 road. The Company now con- 
trols 18,000 miles of railway, owns its own tele- 
graph line, builds its own cars, and operates fifty 
steamers on the Great Lakes, on British Columbia 
lakes and rivers, and on the British Columbia 
coast, besides fleets on two oceans. The Great 
Lakes service is maintained in conjunction with 
eastern Canadian Pacific lines. Steamers run be- 
tween Port McNicoll on Georgian Bay, Lake 
Huron, and the Lake Superior ports, Port Arthur 
and Fort William, on the main transcontinental 
route, four times a week between the end of May 
and the first of October. 

The Minneapolis, St. Paul and Sault Ste. Marie 
Railroad (" Soo — Pacific " line) sends trains 
across the boundary and over the Canadian Pacific 
tracks through the Rockies to Vancouver. 

An eastern section of the Grand Trunk Rail- 
way grandfathered the railroads of Canada, hav- 
ing been built in 1853. Its western extension, the 
Grand Trunk Pacific, was opened to traffic a little 
more than sixty years later. In 1915, the Gov- 
ernment took over the Grand Trunk Pacific prop- 
erties east of Winnipeg. The Canadian Govern- 









1/ 




/ 


lay Ty/ 


A Tort 







GENERAL INFORMATION — CANADA 293 

ment Railways extend from Moncton, New Bruns- 
wick, to Quebec, Cochrane and Winnipeg; the 
Grand Trunk Pacific from Winnipeg to Edmonton 
and Prince Rupert. The Intercolonial from Hali- 
fax to Quebec and Montreal, also Government- 
owned, gives connection at the latter point with 
the Grand Trunk Railway, which is joined to the 
continental Government line by a road running 
north from Toronto. The route, Toronto — 
Cochrane — Winnipeg — Prince Rupert is desig- 
nated as the National Transcontinental Line. 

Says a writer in Leslie's Magazine : " B. B. Kel- 
liher ... is the greatest mountain engineer in 
America. He helped to build both the Union 
Pacific and the Northern Pacific. But his great- 
est achievement has been the building of the Grand 
Trunk Pacific. 

** Mechanical and engineering experts will re- 
member what a sensation was created in their 
circles when it became known what Kelliher was 
about to undertake in the construction of the 
Grand Trunk Pacific. To build a great railroad 
through the Rockies with only a four-tenths of 
one per cent, grade was considered not only impos- 
sible, but the idea itself was looked upon as the 
mad vision of an idealist. Yet Kelliher accom- 
plished this, and as a result the Grand Trunk 
Pacific has the lowest mountain grade of any road 
in the world, and the great engineer himself has 
become doubly famous as * Four-tenths of One Per 
Cent Kelliher.' 

" Just what such a grade means can be under- 
stood when the fact is stated that the highest ele- 
vation the Grand Trunk Pacific reaches in cross- 
ing the Rockies is 3,712 feet, while, in compari- 



294. THE TOURIST'S NORTHWEST 

son, the Canadian Pacific reaches an altitude of 
5,329 feet at Kicking Horse Pass. 

"... It was the ambition of the great builders 
of the road, generaled first by President Hays, 
and later by President Chamberlain, to build a 
road-bed from coast to coast over which trains 
would travel 6 as smoothly as rubber-tired auto- 
mobiles over a paved road.' This 6 idealistic 
dream of making a feather bed out of hard steel ' 
was actually laughed at by men who had already 
become famous as railroad builders. But Kelli- 
her accomplished the fact, and to-day riding over 
the Grand Trunk Pacific from Winnipeg to the 
coast is an experience which proves that dreams 
sometimes come true. At a recent meeting of 
great railroad builders in London it was con- 
ceded that for workmanship, smoothness, and 
grade, the Grand Trunk Pacific was the greatest 
road in the world." 

Allied with the Grand Trunk Railway, the 
Northern Navigation Company provides a link 
from Sarnia and other Ontario ports, by way of 
the Great Lakes, with the Canadian Government 
Railways (Transcontinental Line) at Fort Wil- 
liam, on the north shore of Lake Superior, 450 
miles east of Winnipeg. During the tourist sea- 
son steamers connect at Port William with the tri- 
weekly express to the west, this being an optional 
route of the Transcontinental Line. Steamers of 
the same company come north to Sarnia from De- 
troit and Cleveland, and others run between 
Mackinac Island, Duluth and Fort William. Buf- 
falo, Detroit and Chicago are also connected with 
Sarnia by international Grand Trunk Railway 
lines. 

The Canadian Northern Railway, most recent 



GENERAL INFORMATION — CANADA 295 

entrant in the transcontinental field, claims to have 
laid over a mile of track a day since the begin- 
ning of the present century. " Thirty individual 
railroads, built and acquired " have been united 
in one system. The tracks of the Canadian 
Northern between Winnipeg and the Coast may be 
said in a general way to run between the main 
lines of the Grand Trunk Pacific and Canadian 
Pacific Railroads. 

The best time to the Coast from Montreal is 
made by the " Imperial Limited " which leaves the 
Canadian Pacific station every night and in four 
and a half days completes the trip, Montreal - 
Port Arthur - Winnipeg (1411 m.) — Regina - 
Moose Jaw — Dunmore — Medicine Hat — Calgary 
( 2248 m. ) - Banff - Lake Louise - Field - Gla- 
cier - Revelstoke — Sicamous - Kamloops — Mis- 
sion Junction (Seattle) -Vancouver (2895 1 m.). 
A morning express from Toronto makes about 
the same relative time. 

The tri-weekly expresses of the National Trans- 
continental Line cover the following route in five 
days : Toronto - Cochrane - Graham (junction for 
Fort William) -Winnipeg (1256 m.) - Saskatoon 
— Edmonton (2049 m.) - Jasper -Mt. Robson - 
Hazelton - Prince Rupert (3002 m.). 1 Trans- 
continental passengers change to Grand Trunk 
Pacific at Winnipeg, there being no through cars 
from Toronto. 

A Canadian Northern tri-weekly express fol- 
lows this route in five days : Toronto - Port Ar- 

l For time from Montreal, add seven and a half hours 
by "the fastest train in Canada," the Grand Trunk "In- 
ternational Limited." Arrive in Toronto from Montreal 
5 :45 p. m. Leave Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday on the 
National Transcontinental Line five hours later. 



296 THE TOURIST'S NORTHWEST 

thur - Winnipeg (change for Vancouver) —Saska- 
toon-Edmonton (2136 m.) -Jasper - Mt. Rob- 
son — Kamloops Junction - Port Mann - Vancou- 
ver (2909 m.). 

The daily express trains of the Canadian Pa- 
cific Railway carry day coaches, through Standard 
and Tourist sleeping-cars, compartment-observa- 
tion cars and dining-cars from Montreal and To- 
ronto to Vancouver. The other two roads attach 
observation cars at Winnipeg for the run through 
the mountains, between Edmonton and the Coast. 
The National Transcontinental Line operates a 
Tourist sleeping-car tri-weekly between Toronto 
and Winnipeg, and weekly over the Grand Trunk 
Pacific between Winnipeg and Prince Rupert. 
Day coaches and first-class sleeping-cars and din- 
ing-cars are carried on expresses of all the con- 
tinental lines. The furnishings of the Tourist 
or second-class sleeping-cars are similar to those 
on American trains, 2 and in Canada are espe- 
cially comfortable and well-served. The Standard 
(first-class) rate for a lower berth between Mont- 
real and Vancouver is $17; between Toronto and 
Prince Rupert, $17.50 ; between Winnipeg and the 
Coast, $10; between St. Paul and Vancouver, $11. 
The rate in the Tourist car is about half the fore- 
going. 

The fare between Montreal, Vancouver, Vic- 
toria, Seattle and Portland during the tourist sea- 
son, beginning May first, is $72 single, and about 
$125 return, over any of the Canadian roads and 
their connections. This fare by Grand Trunk in- 
cludes meals and berth for 1*4 to 2 days on the 
steamer from Prince Rupert. Holders of Tourist 

2 See under " Transportation by Rail," Chapter I. 



GENERAL INFORMATION — CANADA 297 

sleeping-car reservations may purchase one-way 
second-class tickets at a lower rate. 

As Dominion railroads do not interchange pas- 
sengers, those who wish to go west from a Can- 
adian city by one line and return by another must 
buy single-fare tickets. A very advantageous rate 
is made, however, from American transportation 
centres through Canada one way and back by an- 
other via Vancouver, B. C. A round trip first- 
class ticket purchased in New York for approxi- 
mately $115 entitles the passenger to go west by 
Montreal, Toronto and Winnipeg, or by Chicago, 
St. Paul and Moose Jaw, through Canada via the 
Canadian Pacific to Vancouver; thence to Prince 
Rupert by Grand Trunk Pacific steamer, and 
from Prince Rupert back to New York by one of 
several routes. The journey may similarly be 
made to the Coast by the Grand Trunk and its 
connections from New York, Detroit and Chicago 
to Winnipeg, through Western Canada by the Na- 
tional Transcontinental Line and homeward by 
the Canadian Pacific, or diversified by a trip over 
the Canadian Northern. The route may also be, 
New York — Seattle via any one of several lines 
mentioned in Chapter One, and back by a Canadian 
road. 

A route for which no excursion rate is made 
comprises the trip to Glacier National Park, 
thence to Calgary (see Note 4, Chapter X) and 
through the Rockies by way of Banff to Vancou- 
ver, and the trip east via Prince Rupert, the Skeena 
River and the northern Rockies. The delights of 
such an American-Canadian Rocky Mountain 
Tour will compensate any one for the expenditure 
of additional time and money. A visit to the 
cities of Washington and Oregon may be made as 



298 THE TOURIST'S NORTHWEST 

an excursion from Mission Junction or Vancou- 
ver. 

Stop-over is allowed on application to conductor 
to holders of first-class one-way tickets, and such 
other tickets as the company designates. 

Passengers who elect to enter Canada from the 
United States by Great Lakes steamers may choose 
a route from Buffalo, Cleveland, Detroit, Chicago, 
Milwaukee or Duluth and disembark at Fort Wil- 
liam or Port Arthur for trains of all Canadian 
continental lines. 

Connections with the Northern Navigation Com- 
pany's steamers at Sarnia have been indicated at 
the beginning of this chapter. Branches of the 
Grand Trunk Railway from Toronto have their 
termini at ports on island-bowered Georgian Bay 
(Lake Huron), served by the Northern Naviga- 
tion Company on regular trips, and on summer 
cruises from Cleveland. Steamers of the same line 
connect with the Northland at Mackinac Island, 
on its run between Buffalo and Chicago. 

The Canadian-built steamers of the Northern 
Navigation Company's main route are admirably 
arranged as to cabins, parlour suites, upper-deck 
dining and observation rooms and broad promen- 
ades. The Noronky Hamonic and Huronic in the 
perfection of their house-keeping and in the con- 
siderate attention of even the humblest members 
of their staffs equal the best class of hotels, and 
surpass average steamers of trans-oceanic lines. 
" Make your guests feel a warm sense of welcome," 
is one of the printed instructions issued by the com- 
pany to its employes. This atmosphere domin- 
ates the ship. To go down the gang-plank after 






GENERAL INFORMATION — CANADA 299 

a sojourn aboard is like leaving the threshold of a 
congenial mn., 

Tlie Canadian Pacific Great Lakes fleet has been 
mentioned as supplementing the cross-continent 
rail lines of this corporation between Port Mc- 
Nicoll, Ontario, Sault Ste. Marie and Port Ar- 
thur. " C. P. R. standard " is the sterling mark 
of North American transportation. Whether on 
boat or train the service is uniform, which is to 
say always cleanly, always polite, always precise 
in whatever affects the patron's enjoyment. 

Brusqueness and indifference are as exceptional 
among Canadian officials and employes as they 
are common with us. The soothing manners of 
quiet and efficient servants increase a hundred-fold 
the pleasures of travel across the border. Guards 
and porters point out passing features of inter- 
est with tactful brevity. News bulletins are un- 
obtrusively placed on the seat. A freshly cased 
pillow replaces the mussed one, a table is sug- 
gested for games, books or portfolio, a blind 
is lowered against an annoying beam, a paper 
bag is forthcoming for Madame's hat, a patent 
screen is fitted which admits of the window's being 
wide open without letting in the cinders, occasion- 
ally an inquiry is made concerning ventilation. 
One is cared-for as by a well-trained personal at- 
tendant. The Grand Trunk System employs 
■ Train Agents " who act as the pursers of the 
express, the conductors being the captains. Par- 
ticularly pleasing fellows they are — sturdy Can- 
adians, lean dark Scots, soft-spoken Irish, with a 
salnte and a smile for all whose tickets they take. 
Amid the wilds of the North where until lately no 
railroad ran, an express paused one morning at 



300 THE TOURIST'S NORTHWEST 

an unpainted station. In a trice the Agent was 
off down the track. He " knew a lovely garden," 
he had hinted to some one in the car, and had tele- 
graphed the owner some fifty miles back. In five 
minutes he returned with proof of his knowledge — 
pansies and hardy asters, which from an Indian 
basket were distributed to the ladies of the train 
to the last seat in the day coach. 

There was the master of the Imperial Limited 
who spent his between-station periods on a dusty 
summer day fanning a sick lad, bringing water to 
old folks, helping mothers with their broods and 
bundles quite as though he were the father of the 
train. Human and helpful, these Canadians, — so 
monstrously more human and helpful than we 
Americans to the passer-by. 

A delightful and little-travelled way to reach 
Winnipeg without the fatigue of the Eastern over- 
land journey is by way of Great Lakes steamer to 
Duluth, thence north by the Duluth, Winnipeg 
and Pacific Railway 1*70 miles to Fort Frances, 
on the border of Minnesota and Ontario. Fort 
Frances, named for the wife of Sir George Simp- 
son, first governor of the amalgamated Hudson's 
Bay and Northwest Fur Companies, is by Cana- 
dian Northern main line 230 miles west of Port 
Arthur. From Fort Frances a steamboat of the 
Rainy River Navigation Company 3 departs thrice 
a week for the lower end of the Lake of the Woods, 
where passengers are transferred to a larger craft 
for a hundred-mile voyage through romantic 
waters thickly starred with wooded islands to the 
town of Kenora, on the transcontinental route of 

s General Passenger Agent, Great West Permanent Build- 
ing, Winnipeg, Man, 



GENERAL INFORMATION — CANADA 301 

the Canadian Pacific. By this route the tourist 
embarking at Buffalo on a Lake Erie steamer may 
arrive in Winnipeg, half-way across the continent, 
with but eleven hours' travel by rail (Duluth — 
Fort Frances, seven hours ; Kenora — Winnipeg 
four hours). A branch of the Northern Pacific 
connects Minneapolis with Fort Frances, and a 
Great Northern branch touches the southwest cor- 
ner of the Lake of the Woods. 

No more idyllic water journey can be imagined 
than the one across wide reaches and through 
shady channels of the Lac des Isles. De Noyen 
and Verendrye paddled this highway in quest of 
furs on the ancient route from Lake Superior to 
Hudson's Bay. On the banks are Ojibway vil- 
lages, and burying grounds marked by crude totem 
poles and low grave-houses. If you pass this way 
early in June you will find wigwams on the slope 
above Manitou Rapids and hear the torn toms 
beating for the war dances of the Treaty Pay- 
ment, when every man, woman and child of these 
" Queen Victoria Indians " receives from the 
Crown a gift of five dollars. Perhaps Chief 
Blackbird is your pilot through the chute, and 
Maketch e geezick, Three-quarters of a Cedar 
(because he is so tall), may come down with other 
braves in festal paint to watch from a nest of 
beached canoes the passage of the boat. At the 
junction of the Rainy River with the Big American 
River is a mound 325 feet in circumference about 
the base and 45 feet high which Mexican tribes are 
presumed to have built 800 years ago. This and 
smaller mounds of the vicinity contain pottery, 
amulets, bones, pigments and implements of a for- 
gotten race. 

Many of the islands which strew the upper half 



302 THE TOURIST'S NORTHWEST 

of the lake and create changing, exquisite pictures 
have been chosen for summer camps, and fast 
motor-boats by the score add life to the scene. 
At Kenora, which once bore the historic name of 
Rat Portage, citizens have erected the Tourist 
Hotel with modern facilities for entertaining sum- 
mer guests. Kenora — Winnipeg, 133 miles. 
\ A daily steamer carries passengers up the Winni- 
peg River from Kenora 35 miles to Minaki, on the 
National Transcontinental Line. Here there is a 
charming inn where one may rest en route, situated 
on picturesque Sand Lake and recently constructed 
by the Grand Trunk Pacific. Minaki - Winnipeg, 
114 miles. 

By rail Winnipeg is accessible from United States 
terminals by fast through trains. Edmonton and 
Calgary are 800 miles to the west, and at these 
two cities the journey into the Canadian North- 
west may properly be said to begin. 

Rail and steamer connections between the Ameri- 
can Northwest and the Canadian Northwest have 
been outlined in preceding chapters ; also infor- 
mation concerning Motorways into Canada. 4 

Passports. 

Passports are not required in Canada. A docu- 
ment of this nature is, however, a convenient form 
of identification. 

4 Concerning Transportation and Routes, see Chapter I: 
" Transportation — By Rail," and "By Steamer"; refer 
Canadian connections via Great Northern, etc., under "Lo- 
cal Railways — Washington " ; and refer to " Routes." 

See Chapter VIII: fine print following Lake Chelan for 
route, Oroville - Penticton, B. C- Sicamous ; and end of 
chapter for route, Bellingham - Blaine - Vancouver, B. C. 

See Chapter X: Notes 3 and 4 for routes from Eastern 
Washington, Idaho, and Montana to Macleod, Calgary, 
Kootenay Valley and Kootenay Landing. 



GENERAL INFORMATION — CANADA 303 

Customs. 

Travellers entering Canada submit their baggage 
for inspection at ports of entry or frontier sta- 
tions unless, by request, it has been bonded through 
to some other Customs station. Canadian Cus- 
toms inspectors will examine baggage destined for 
Canada at Portland, Maine, Buffalo and Chicago 
(Central and Dearborn stations), and bond it 
through to the passenger's destination. Hand 
baggage is inspected at the frontier. 

Personal effects, including wearing apparel enter 
Canada free of duty, also 40 cigars and 100 
cigarettes in open packages. A deposit is re- 
quired on firearms, fishing tackle and like impor- 
tations, but is returned if the traveller leaves 
Canada within six months. Regulations govern- 
ing motorists entering Canada are given under 
" Motorways," Chapter One. 

United States Customs officers are at St. John, 
N. B., Quebec, Montreal, Ottawa, Toronto, Lon- 
don, Winnipeg, Banff (during summer season) and 
Vancouver stations to examine baggage destined 
for Canada. For United States Customs regula- 
tions, see " Customs," Chapter One. 

Railways and Steamers in the Canadian North- 
west. 

Edmonton, Calgary and Macleod, Vancouver and 
Prince Rupert are the outer boundary posts of 
that part of the Canadian Northwest which princi- 
pally concerns the tourist. Within this realm of 
canyons and mountains, lakes, rivers, cities and 
vacation resorts the transcontinental lines are the 
chief means of transport. Calgary and Edmon- 
ton are united by the Grand Trunk Pacific and 
Canadian Pacific, the latter being the more direct 



304 THE TOURIST'S NORTHWEST 

route. Each of these cities is in frequent railway 
communication with Winnipeg, the Central Cana- 
dian fountain-head of transportation. The Cana- 
dian Pacific main line traverses the prairie to Cal- 
gary, via Regina and Dunmore. The Crow's 
Nest Route passes from Dunmore to MacLeod on 
the south. A second subsidiary line of the Cana- 
dian Pacific, and the trunk lines of the Grand 
Trunk Pacific (National Transcontinental) and 
Canadian Northern Railways cross from Winnipeg 
to Edmonton (800 m.) over a level wheat tract 
north of the plains which spread so opulently, and 
monotonously, about Regina and Calgary. 

Calgary is the principal eastern portal to the 
scenic regions of lower Alberta and British Co- 
lumbia. From Edmonton one enters the Rocky 
Mountains 200 miles further north. 

The section of mountainous country bounded by 
the Canadian Pacific main line (Calgary - Banff - 
Lake Louise - Field - Glacier — Revelstoke - Sica- 
mous — Vancouver, 650 m.) and the Crow's Nest 
Pass Route (MacLeod — Kootenay Landing 250 
m.) is crossed from north to south by Canadian 
Pacific rail and steamer lines. Calgary and Mac- 
Leod, 100 miles apart, are joined by rail. From 
Golden, 170 miles west of Calgary, a new road 
runs south through the Columbia and Kootenay 
Valleys to stations on the Crow's Nest Route. 
The Columbia is navigable from Golden to Win- 
dermere. From Revelstoke, 100 miles west of 
Golden there is rail connection to Arrowhead, 
where steamer is taken through the Arrow Lakes. 
Canadian Pacific steamers and trains connect 
Kootenay Landing with the foot of the Arrow 
Lakes, via Balfour and Nelson. 




E- 
H 
C W 



GENERAL INFORMATION — CANADA 305 

Sicamous, west of Revelstoke, is at the junction 
of the main C. P. R. road with a branch which 
reaches the head of Okanagan Lake. A steamer 
runs the length of Okanagan Lake to Penticton. 
Penticton is on the Kettle Valley Railway, a newly 
constructed link between the Kootenay country 
and the transcontinental route, Sicamous — Van- 
couver. The Great Northern line, Oroville — 
Princeton passes west of Penticton. 

From Mission Junction, 600 miles west of Sica- 
mous, passengers enter Washington State over the 
Canadian Pacific and Northern Pacific Railways. 

Victoria, distant by steamer 83 miles from Van- 
couver, is united with east shore towns on Van- 
couver Island by the Esquimalt and Nanaimo 
Railway, and with Port Alberni on the west shore 
by a new Canadian Northern line. 

The British Columbia Electric Railroad operates 
300 miles in and around Vancouver. Branches 
extend to Steveston and New Westminster, and to 
Sumas, Wash. On Vancouver Island the same 
company operates short lines. 

North of Edmonton, a Canadian Northern branch 
extends to Athabasca Landing. Another railway 
chiefly patronized by colonists, the Edmonton, 
Dunvegan and British Columbia, reaches from a 
point outside the limits of Edmonton to Peace 
River Crossing. Once a year about the middle of 
June, tourists may leave by the Peace River for 
a trip down the Mackenzie River through North- 
Alberta to Fort McPherson, by Hudson's Bay 
Company steamers. Fort McPherson is on an 
outlet of the Arctic Ocean. 

West of Edmonton and Mt. Robson Park, the 
Canadian Northern lays a diagonal track down 
the Thompson and Fraser River Valleys to Van- 



306 THE TOURIST'S NORTHWEST 

couver, spanning territory which stretches between 
the Grand Trunk and Canadian Pacific Roads and 
which until lately had no rail communication. 

The Grand Trunk Pacific, bridging by a direct 
route the 950 miles between Edmonton and its 
port on the Pacific Ocean, will be connected with 
Vancouver by rail upon the completion of the 
Pacific Great Eastern Railway now building north 
from Vancouver to Prince George. Prince 
George — Edmonton, 485 miles ; Prince George — 
Vancouver, 810 miles. Rails have already pierced 
a primitive country as far as Lillopet, ISO miles 
from the sea. 

Steamers on the British Columbia Coast. 

Arriving in Prince Rupert the second evening 
out from Edmonton, passengers over the Grand 
Trunk Pacific leave the next morning by Prince 
Rupert, Prince George or Chelohsin for Vancou- 
ver (l 1 /^ days), Victoria and Seattle (2 days). 5 
Twice a week during the summer a Grand Trunk 
Pacific steamer goes north to Any ox (Granby 
Ray), through Observatory Inlet, one of the finest 
fjords on the Northwest Coast. According to a 
schedule effective for the first time in June, 1916, 
the S. S. Prince Rupert, northbound from Seattle 
and Vancouver, will leave Prince Rupert every 
Wednesday for Ketchikan, Wrangell, Juneau and 
Skagway, Alaska. 

Telegraph Creek, B. C, at the head of the Sti- 
kine River, is reached by steamer to Wrangell, 
Alaska, and launch up the Stikine. Atlin, B. C, 
is accessible from Skagway, Alaska, by railroad 

6 See under " Transportation by Steamer," Chapter I. 
Through passengers are transported from Prince Rupert 
to Vancouver, Victoria and Seattle without additional cost. 
Meals and berth on the steamer are included. 






GENERAL INFORMATION — CANADA 307 

and steamers of the White Pass and Yukon Route. 

Prince Rupert is a port of call for the Alaska 
steamers of the Canadian Pacific and Pacific Coast 
Steamship Companies, and for steamers of the 
Union Steamship Company which run between 
Vancouver and points on Observatory Inlet and 
Portland Canal, and fortnightly to Queen Char- 
lotte Islands. The Canadian Pacific also has sail- 
ings to Anyox. 

Vancouver is the home port of a Canadian Pacific 
fleet which plys on frequent schedule to islands in 
the gulf; to Powell River; to Victoria and other 
points on the east and west coast of Vancouver 
Island ; to Seattle, 5 and to British Columbia ports 
between Vancouver and Prince Rupert. 

The Union Steamship Company gives weekly 
service to logging camps, fish depots and resorts 
on inlets, islands and rivers too numerous to men- 
tion. Tourist excursions to Powell River and 
Howe Sound are made daily by small craft of 
sundry lines, sailing from Vancouver. 

Trans-Pacific Steamers. 

Empress of Russia and Empress of Asia, with a 
gross registered tonnage of 16,850, and a sea speed 
of 20 knots maintain a regular service between 
Vancouver and Yokohama, Kobe, Nagasaki, 
Shanghai and Hong Kong. Manila is included in 
the round trip, and a new arrangement enables the 
passenger for an additional fare to travel over- 
land from Yokohama to Shanghai, via Korea, Muk- 
den, Peking and Nanking. 

Steamers of the Canadian - Australasian R. M. 
Line leave Vancouver on fixed schedule for 
Honolulu, the Fiji Islands, Auckland, N. Z., and 
Sidney, Australia. 



308 THE TOURIST'S NORTHWEST 

Tours in British Columbia and Alberta. 

Calgary, Edmonton, Vancouver or Prince Rupert 
may be taken as bases for a circular tour which 
will include the principal features of the main 
routes in the Canadian Northwest. But as Van- 
couver is the chief rendezvous of Western Cana- 
dian rail and steamer lines, it will hereafter be 
named as the centre of excursions. A majority 
of American tourists to Western Canada (the 
term used in the Dominion to designate British 
Columbia and Alberta) arrive in Vancouver fol- 
lowing a trip through the United States and en 
route east by a Canadian line. In the tourist 
months, the Canadian trains going east are usually 
more crowded than the Canadian trains going 
west. American travellers making a continental 
tour for the first time do well to see part of their 
own country and at least one representative sec- 
tion of the Canadian Rockies. As a rule those 
who express a wish to do this are routed wesjt 
by the American railway from whom the tickets 
are purchased, over a southern, central or north- 
ern United States line, and east by way of 
Canada. 

If an all-Canadian round-trip tour is chosen the 
traveller will arrive at the beginning, the end or 
the middle of such a tour in Vancouver. Two or 
three exceptions to this may be cited: — Travellers 
from Seattle who join the Canadian Pacific line 
at Mission Junction may proceed east to Calgary 
through the Selkirks and Rockies without touch- 
ing Vancouver. From Calgar} T a circle maj T be 
completed as follows : Calgary to Edmonton by 
Canadian Pacific or Grand Trunk Pacific ; Edmon- 
ton to Jasper Park and Mt, Robson Park by 
Grand Trunk Pacific or Canadian Northern; 



GENERAL INFORMATION — CANADA 309 

Canadian Northern from beyond Mt. Robson down 
the Thompson River to the Canadian Pacific at 
Kamloops, and out of Canada by Mission Junc- 
tion. Or the three continental roads may be em- 
ployed in going from Calgary or Edmonton to 
Mt. Robson, Kamloops, and east. Travelling 
to Calgary from Montana, Idaho or Eastern 
Washington, the route might be: Rexford, Bon- 
ner's Ferry or Spokane — Calgary — Glacier — 
Kamloops — Mt. Robson Park — Edmonton — Win- 
nipeg. Between Spokane and Winnipeg, an op- 
tional route is available to holders of C. P. R. 
round trip tickets, via Kingsgate, Kootenay Land- 
ing, Nelson, West Robson, Arrow Lakes, Revel- 
stoke, Glacier, Banff and Calgary, at an addi- 
tional cost of $13.15. 

The foregoing tours eliminate the noble Skeena 
River scenery on the Grand Trunk Pacific and the 
coast views between Prince Rupert and Vancouver ; 
ignore Vancouver City, Vancouver Island, and the 
beautiful valley of the lower Fraser between Mis- 
sion Junction and Vancouver. And these it is 
regrettable to miss. 

Vancouver is an impartial centre for local coast 
excursions, and the goal of rail and steamer lines 
from the United States and Canada. 

Besides the circle trip, and one-way trips east or 
west through the Rockies, exclusively Canadian 
Pacific tours may be arranged as follows : 

(a) Vancouver to Coast rivers and inlets by 
steamer. 

Vancouver to Victoria by steamer (thrice a day). 
Victoria by train up the east coast of the Island, 
and back to Vancouver via Nanaimo. Or steamer, 
Vancouver to Victoria and up the west coast and 
back to Vancouver. 



310 THE TOURIST'S NORTHWEST 

Vancouver - Victoria — Seattle and back. 
Vancouver — Alert Bay — Prince Rupert — Anyox 

— Vancouver. 

(b) Vancouver - Revelstoke — south through the 
Arrow Lakes by C. P. R. steamer and back to 
Revelstoke via Arrow Lakes or Kootenay Lakes. 
Revelstoke - Glacier — Field - Lake Louise - Banff 
-t Calgary. 

(c) Vancouver — Sicamous - south through Ok- 
anagan Lake to Penticton. Penticton - West 
Robson by Kettle Valley and C. P. R. scenic 
branches. West Robson north to Revelstoke via 
the Arrow Lakes, or via Nelson and the Kootenay 
Lakes. Revelstoke - Glacier — Calgary. 

(d) Vancouver — Revelstoke 6 - West Robson by 
Arrow Lakes — Nelson by rail. Nelson — Balfour 

— Kootenay Landing by C. P. R. steamer. Koote- 
nay Landing — Cranbrook by Crow's Nest rail 
route. Cranbrook north to Golden through the 
valley of the Kootenay and Columbia Rivers. 
Golden — Calgary. 

(e) Vancouver — Spence's Bridge (or Vancouver 

— Hope by a new road) . Spence's Bridge or Hope 

6 An excursion may be made from Revelstoke to Glacier 
and back to Revelstoke. Round trip 85 miles. Otherwise 
Glacier, surrounded by some of the most splendid peaks 
of the Selkirks, must be omitted if this lake and valley 
tour is taken. 

Between Revelstoke and Dunmore, tickets are good with- 
out extra cost to holders of C. P. R. round trip tickets: 

Via main line, through Banff and Calgary. 

Via Kootenay line through Revelstoke, Arrowhead, West 
Robson and Nelson. 

Via Kootenay line through Revelstoke, Arrowhead, Na- 
kusp, Rosebery (upper Kootenay Lake), Slocan Junction 
and Nelson. 

Between Revelstoke and Winnipeg, via Arrowhead, Nel- 
son, Kootenay Landing, Macleod and Calgary, at a cost 
of $9.50 in excess of the round trip ticket. Meals and 
berth are extra on lake steamers. 



GENERAL INFORMATION — CANADA 311 

— Penticton by the recently constructed Kettle 
Valley Road. Penticton - West Robson by Kettle 
Valley and C. P. R. West Robson - Nelson - 
Kootenay Landing — Cranbrook — Macleod — Cal- 
gary. Calgary — Banff — Revelstoke — Spence's 
Bridge - Hope - Mission Junction - Vancouver. 

In reading time-tables for routes off the main 
tourist track, care must be used to note on what 
days trains are scheduled to run. Service over the 
Kettle Valley and Columbia Valley rail routes is 
tri-weekly. Lake steamers usually run daily ex- 
cept Sunday. Trains on the Crow's Nest Route 
run daily. Unless precautions are taken, it is 
quite possible to arrive at an uninteresting junc- 
tion only to discover the necessity of remaining 
there one or more full days before the journey can 
be continued. 

A ten-day excursion from Vancouver at an in- 
clusive cost of $40 is advertised by the Union 
Steamship Company to include Prince Rupert, 
Observatory Inlet, Portland Canal, Queen Char- 
lotte Islands and quaint harbours and Indian vil- 
lages on the coast north of Vancouver. 

A tour of five-days' duration from Vancouver, 
including several hours in port at Victoria, Seat- 
tle, Prince Rupert and Anyox, is available by the 
swift modern steamers of the Grand Trunk 
Pacific Company. The channel for the whole dis- 
tance up and down the coast is, with the exception 
of a few miles, sheltered by islands from wind and 
ocean swell. 

Vancouver — Victoria — Seattle, 160 miles. Van- 
couver — Prince Rupert, 550 miles. Prince Ru- 
pert— Anyox, 104 miles. Cost of a circular tour 
including Anyox, but not including meals and 



312 THE TOURIST'S NORTHWEST 

berth on the Any ox (Observatory Inlet) route, 
$50; total distance, 1628 miles. The time and 
cost are of course the same from whatever port 
the excursion is begun. Sailings tri-weekly, ex- 
cept to Anyox, which by the Grand Trunk 
Pacific steamers has a bi-weekly summer service. 

Tours to northern British Columbia are con- 
veniently made by Grand Trunk Pacific or Can- 
adian Pacific steamers to Skagway, Alaska, and 
from that port by the White Pass and Yukon 
Route to Lake Atlin, B. C, over a superlatively 
beautiful and increasingly popular rail and 
steamer course. Time from Seattle or Vancouver 
to Atlin and return, including side trip to White 
Horse, and a day or two each at Atlin and Skag- 
way, 16 days. Distance 2400 miles. Approxi- 
mate cost, not including maintenance at stop-over 
points, $100. From White Horse, Yukon Ter- 
ritory, excellent steamers of the White Pass and 
Yukon Route frequently sail down the Yukon 
River to Dawson, Y. T., and continue to Nome 
on the northwest coast of Alaska. In summer 
there is a direct service between Nome and Seat- 
tle. For further information concerning brief or 
protracted tours in Alaska, northern Britisli Col- 
umbia and Yukon Territory, address any of the 
following: General Passenger Agent, White 
Pass and Yukon Route, Conway Building, Chi- 
cago ; General Agent of the same line, Alaska 
Building, Seattle ; or General Manager, Skagway, 
Alaska. 

At Skagway the hotel most patronised by tour- 
ists is the Pullen House. An omnibus meets all 
steamers. American plan rates, $3 a day up. 

Wrangell, Alaska, a port of call on the way be- 
tween Prince Rupert and Skagway, is the point 



GENERAL INFORMATION — CANADA 313 

of departure for tours by launch up the Stikine 
River to Telegraph Creek, B. C, in the heart of 
a renowned hunting district. The Stikine River, 
bordered by glaciers and high peaks, is one of the 
great picture streams of the world. Rising in 
British Columbia, it passes through Alaska to the 
sea. Mr. Farquhar Mathewson, Wrangell, Alaska, 
will reply to inquiries concerning the hire of nec- 
essary equipments, launches or guides for the 
Stikine River trip, which consumes three days be- 
tween Wrangell and Telegraph Creek, and one 
day in the opposite direction. 

Very comfortable electric-lighted, steam-heated 
rooms and good board are provided at the 
Wrangell Hotel, at the end of the steamer dock, 
opposite Mr. Mathewson's store. 

Tourist Bureaux. 

Information concerning local tours is obtain- 
able in the lobbies of Canadian Pacific hotels in 
Calgary, Vancouver and Victoria, and at the com- 
pany's mountain hotels. Also at the Grand 
Trunk Pacific hotel in Edmonton, and at the head- 
quarters of the Grand Trunk System, the Can- 
adian Pacific and Canadian Northern Railways in 
New York, Chicago, Montreal, Toronto, Winni- 
peg and Vancouver. 

Cottrell's Bureau at 334 Granville Street, Van- 
couver, sells tickets and advises concerning excur- 
sions. The British Columbia Electric Railway, 
office Carrall Street Depot, Vancouver, issues a 
folder containing a map of the city and suburbs 
and several pages of information as to local and 
interurban trips by electric car. 

For general information concerning Vancouver 
Island, the tourist is invited to address the Pub- 



314 THE TOURIST'S NORTHWEST 

licity Commissioner, Board of Trade Building, 
Victoria, B. C. 

At Revelstoke, B. C, the Secretary of the Tour- 
ist Bureau of the Women's Canadian Club solicits 
correspondence regarding the Mt. Revelstoke 
Drive, the Arrow Lakes, and vacation opportuni- 
ties in the vicinity of which Revelstoke is the trans- 
portation centre. 

Conveyances. 

Apart from cabs, street cars and jitneys in Van- 
couver and Victoria, there is a well-organized 
" sight-seeing " service in both cities which includes 
observation trams, automobiles, tally-hos and 
boats. Cars meet certain steamers and. trains for 
the convenience of visitors whose stay in the city 
is limited. 

Of the several " Seeing Vancouver " and " See- 
ing Victoria " motor-buses and tally-hos those 
which leave from Canadian Pacific hotels are espe- 
cially recommended for comfort and polite at- 
tendance. 

At Banff, Lake Louise, Field and Jasper Park, 
the Brewster Transport Company provides horse 
stages, surreys and saddle-horses for mountain 
trips, and pack outfits for those bent upon climb- 
ing, camping or hunting. The tourist service is 
in connection with the Canadian Pacific hotels at 
Banff, Lake Louise and Field, and is allied with 
the camp near Jasper, in Jasper Park. In Banff 
are numerous other concerns which supply horses 
and vehicles. Tariffs are under control of the 
Department of the Interior in all Government 
Parks. At Glacier, the Outfitter is S. H. Baker. 

Motor-cars are for hire by the day or excursion 
in Vancouver, Victoria, Prince Rupert, Revel- 






GENERAL INFORMATION — CANADA 315 

stoke, Nelson, Calgary, Edmonton and many 
smaller places. The two last-named cities have 
municipally owned street railways. 

Motorways. 

The Island Automobile Club of Victoria, with 
the co-operation of motor organisations through- 
out the Dominion, is promoting a campaign for 
the improvement and construction of roads which 
it is proposed shall in combination form a trans- 
Canada motor route. The completed highway will 
eventually cross nine provinces during its course 
of 4000 miles. The most interesting mountain 
section of this continental highroad is the motor- 
way recently built by the Dominion and Provin- 
cial Governments and the Canadian Pacific Railway 
Company between Calgary, 7 Banff and Winder- 
mere Lake, across the Rockies in the Columbia 
Valley (150 m.). 

Motor-cars are now admitted to the Rocky 
Mountains Park, of which Banff is the centre, so 
that tourists by automobile may enjoy in their 
own cars the delightful roads of the National Re- 
serve. A 500-mile circuit from Calgary to Wind- 
ermere and back to Calgary via the Columbia- 
Kootenay Valley and Macleod is rich in wonderful 
views and stretches of smooth highway. 

Lake Louise and Field, the two Canadian Pacific 
resorts between Banff and Golden, are not yet 
accessible by automobile, though local roads are 
expertly constructed and well maintained for 
wagon traffic. 

South from Golden runs the highway which con- 

7 Motor-cars make the run from Calgary to Edmonton in 
about 12 hours. The motor-road mileage about Edmonton is 
limited to a few attractive drives in the immediate vicinity. 



316 THE TOURIST'S NORTHWEST 

nects near Windermere Lake with the road from 
Banff and by which one continues down the 
Kootenay Valley to Cranbrook, or goes east to 
Macleod. A trans-provincial highway is building 
through southern British Columbia from the moun- 
tains, via Cranbrook, Nelson, Penticton (foot of 
Okanagan Lake) and Princeton, to Hope in the 
Fraser River Valley, 90 miles east of Vancouver. 
The section, Penticton to Hope, 165 miles, is com- 
pleted and, like most British Columbia roads, is 
substantially laid. The trip can be made through 
hilly country in nine or ten hours. 

South of Penticton motorists may enter the 
United States near Oroville, Washington, or fol- 
low the international boundary eastward and go 
south to Spokane via Cascade and Marcus. Cus- 
toms regulations are given on a later page. 

Revelstoke, west of Golden and Glacier, boasts 
one of the finest scenic roads in the Northwest — a 
new highway, 17 miles in length which winds from 
the base to the summit of the imposing mountain 
which bears the name of the pleasant little city 
at its feet. Other roads through the Columbia's 
gorge and eastward along the Illecillewaet River 
are also used by automobiles. 

In the Okanagan Valley, south of Sicamous, good 
natural roads connect the settlements and irri- 
gated orchards of fruit growers on either bank of 
the lake, and at Penticton join the highway run- 
ning east and west. 

Ashcroft, 130 miles west of Sicamous, is the 
point on the main railway from which the " old 
Cariboo trail " starts north. The Lillooet branch 
of the road starts from Lytton. As early as 1858 
gold-seekers travelled this way to Barkerville. 
Forty years later men bound for the Klondyke 



GENERAL INFORMATION — CANADA 317 

packed their goods over the famous road built by 
Royal Engineers whose headquarters were at Sap- 
perton, near New Westminster. Until compara- 
tively recent times, canvas-covered wagons car- 
ried men and provisions into the Cariboo gold- 
fields. Motor-stages now run from Vancouver to 
Quesnel, a distance of 400 miles or more. The 
road continues to Prince George, on the Grand 
Trunk Pacific Railway. Between Prince George 
and Hazelton, on the Skeena River, the road has 
lately been building. Upon the completion of a 
few short links, a motor tour will be possible from 
the Mexican border to Yukon Territory, via San 
Diego, San Francisco, Seattle, Vancouver, Ash- 
croft, Prince George, Hazelton, Telegraph Creek 
and Atlin. From the latter point, on wondrous 
Lake Atlin, excellent motor-roads serve the mines 
of neighbouring creeks. 

South of Ashcroft and Spence's Bridge a well- 
travelled road passes through the verdant Nicola 
Valley to Merritt, and continues to Princeton. A 
circuit may be made from Vancouver to Ashcroft, 
north into the Cariboo Country, back to Ash- 
croft, south to Princeton, and west to Hope and 
Vancouver. 

Good roads follow the Lower Fraser to Agassiz, 
Mission, New Westminster and Vancouver over the 
level valley floor, in view of Mt. Baker. 

Vancouver is the centre of many agreeable drives 
to seashore, forest parks and canyons, and to out- 
lying towns. The road to New Westminster is 
famously good. A favourite tour from Vancouver 
is to Harrison Hot Springs and back (190 m.). 

Details and diagrams of mainland and Vancou- 
ver Island roads, road-houses, traffic and Customs 
regulations are given in the Pacific Coast Auto- 



318 THE TOURIST'S NORTHWEST 

mobile Blue Booh, which may be had from the pub- 
lishers, Pacific Building, San Francisco, for $2.50. 
Chicago office, 910 South Michigan Avenue; New 
York office, 243 West 39th Street. 

The Pacific Highway (see under " Motorways," 
Chapter I) enters British Columbia at Ferndale, 
beyond Blaine, Washington, and proceeds via New 
Westminster to Vancouver. Customs stations are 
maintained at Blaine and Ferndale, and at Sumas, 
Wash., and Abbotsford, B. C. Also at Seattle and 
Port Angeles, Wash., and Victoria, B. C, for 
travellers who employ the international steamer 
service. 

Canadian motor tourists entering the United 
States are governed by regulations similar to those 
which affect motorists entering Canada. Local 
financiers may be found who will arrange the bond 
covering the value of the automobile. A small 
cash deposit is also required. Touring permits 
are issued for seven to fourteen days by the Cus- 
toms departments of both countries, for which no 
bond is required. At the rear of the Pacific 
Coast Automobile Blue Book is given a summary 
of information concerning Customs stations and 
regulations. For the information of automobil- 
ists there are also appended reproductions of va- 
rious official forms in use at the border. 

In British Columbia, vehicles take the left side of 
the road, reversing the rule of the United States. 

Steamers which cross from Vancouver to Nan- 
aimo and Victoria, V. I., and run to Seattle and 
Port Townsend, carry automobiles for a moderate 
fee. 

A leaflet issued by the Victoria and Island 
Development Association describing the Georgian 
Circuit (see under "Motorways," Chapter I) and 



GENERAL INFORMATION — CANADA 319 

various side trips will be mailed to applicants who 
address the Publicity Commissioner, Board of 
Trade Building, Victoria. 

Vancouver Island calls itself an Auto Paradise 
and advertises its hundreds of miles of exceptional 
roads and its marine and mountain scenery. One 
of the really splendid motorways of the Pacific 
Northwest is the Island Drive which climbs high 
ridges and skirts sea cliffs on the way from Vic- 
toria to Campbell River, 225 miles out the east 
coast, and to the Government Park named for Lord 
Strathcona. The Malahat Drive comprises a sec- 
tion of the Island Drive from Victoria to Malahat 
Beach (27 m.). 

At Parksville, beyond Nanaimo, the Canadian 
Highway Route turns off the Island Drive to 
Alberni and Great Central Lake (150 m. from Vic- 
toria). Following the shores of Cameron Lake, 
the road pierces a magnificent forest of typical 
British Columbia trees. Alberni, 52 miles from 
Nanaimo, is at the head of an inlet which enters 
the sea coast of the Island, and is the most west- 
erly point in Canada touched by a motor-road. 

The Saanich Inlet Drive and the drives to Shawni- 
gan Lake and Sooke Harbor are also popular 
routes out of Victoria. 

A tour of the Island begun at Nanaimo, 40 miles 
from Vancouver, may be completed at Victoria, 80 
miles from Vancouver ; from both these ports 
there are frequent fast steamers to the mainland. 

Money. 

The dollar is the unit of currency in Canada, 
and United States notes and silver are accepted at 
par. Only the nickel and copper coins of the 
United States are refused. The Canadian five- 



320 THE TOURIST'S NORTHWEST 

cent piece is a small silver coin, the cent a large 
bronze one. The 20-cent piece is easily confused 
with the silver quarter of both Canada and the 
United States. Besides paper notes of 25 cents, 
$1, $8, $5, $10, $20, $50 and $100 denomination, 
the Dominion issues a $4 note; also gold coins 
which until late years were done at the Royal 
Mint in England. 

There is a discount of one to two per cent, (mini- 
mum, ten cents) on all Canadian bills changed in 
the United States. 

Coppers are not in general circulation west of 
Calgary. Employes at railway news and curio 
stands are instructed to refuse them, and tourists 
relate incidents of their being declined at Gov- 
ernment post offices. Stamps are often given in 
change if the price of an article is an odd amount. 
Nothing costs less than five cents, not even a vil- 
lage newspaper. 

In all but exceptional instances, merchandise and 
wearing apparel are more expensive in Canada 
than in the United States, quality for quality. 
The only exceptions of importance are furs, and 
rugs and garments made of wool, which may be 
of either British or Canadian manufacture. Many 
articles of daily consumption are imported from 
the United States. 

A list of principal banks in the chief tourist 
towns of the Canadian Northwest is given at the 
rear of this volume. The Travellers' Cheques and 
Letters of Credit issued by reliable banks, tourist 
agencies and express companies are recommended 
as a safe and convenient means of carrying funds. 
As a precaution against contingencies, travellers 
are advised to have a local banker attest their 
signature before leaving home. 




UNITY FALLS, PRINCESS LOLHSE INLET, ON THE BRIT- 
ISH COLUMBIA COAST, NORTH OF VANCOUVER 



GENERAL INFORMATION — CANADA 321 

Postage. 

Letters: £ cents per ounce to Canada, New- 
foundland, the United States, Mexico, Great Brit- 
ain and her colonies. Five cents per ounce to 
other countries. 

Postal Cards: 1 cent to Canada, the United 
States and Mexico ; other countries, % cents. 

Newspapers: 1 cent for each 4 ounces to Can- 
ada, the United States and Mexico. 

Books, Photographs and Printed Matter: 1 
cent for each & ounces to all countries. 

Merchandise: 1 cent per ounce to Canada and 
the United States. 

Registration, 5 cents. Special Delivery, 10 
cents. 

Visitors are warned against thoughtlessly using 
United States stamps in Canada. Post office 
officials complain of this error on the part of tour- 
ists. 

Climate and Seasons. 

The climate of Western Canada is as varied as 
its elevations. The configuration of the country 
affects winds, snow, rainfall, heat and cold. 
Among the Rocky Mountains and the Selkirks and 
at scattered places on the coast summer rains are 
frequent, the weather often being unsettled until 
mid-season. On bright days the sun's rays beat 
hot in unsheltered places but are never prostrat- 
ing, and nights are comfortable everywhere in 
Western Canada. 

Edmonton, on the high plains, has a cool sum- 
mer, Jasper and Banff, in basins between snow 
mountains, a warm one. Little wind blows 
at Banff in any season. In winter, 20° below 



322 THE TOURIST'S NORTHWEST 

zero is not bitter, but only invigorating in this 
tranquil valley of the Bow. In other parts of 
southern Alberta and British Columbia, " the 
Chinooks," moist warm winds that drift through 
the mountains from the far-away sea, lessen the 
severity of the frosty months. 

At Lake Louise, nearly 6000 feet in the clouds, 
one may go to sleep with a June moon shining on 
poppies and green lawns, and waken to find grass, 
pines, paths and amber beds deep beneath a heavy 
pall of snow. These beautifying visitations are 
rare, but do sometimes occur once in a summer, 
and as late as July. 

Glacier in the heart of the Selkirks rivals 
Agassiz in the Lower Fraser Valley in annual rain- 
fall. The average precipitation of each, based on 
the official record for three consecutive years, is 
66 inches compared with 10 inches at Banff, Kam- 
loops and Penticton, 12 at Edmonton, 26 at Vic- 
toria and Nelson, 38 at Revelstoke, 55 at Vancou- 
ver, and 107 at Clayoquot on the rainy west 
coast of Vancouver Island. 

Kamloops and Ashcroft in the Thompson River 
dry belt, Princeton among the hills between 
Okanagan Lake and the Fraser River, and Cran- 
brook on the rolling plains south of the Kootenay 
Valley, are according to record the hottest towns 
of British Columbia in mid-summer, and among 
the coldest in winter, the extremes in a given year 
being 101° and -30°. The Okanagan Valley 
also has a high July and August temperature, but 
is refreshed with uncanny regularity by a strong 
breeze, not to say hurricane, which blows through 
the funnel of the long narrow lake about five 
o'clock each afternoon. The sun shines on Sum- 
merland, in the Okanagan Lake Valley, during 



GENERAL INFORMATION — CANADA 323 

more than half of the daylight hours of the year. 

Vancouver has a delightfully equable climate, the 
variation in a year between maximum heat and cold 
being but 60 degrees. Victoria, 80 miles nearer 
the sea, has half the rainfall of Vancouver, and is 
sunnier and warmer at all seasons than its neigh- 
bour on the mainland. Clayoquot, rainiest town 
of Western Canada and 100 miles toward the sea 
from Victoria, has the warmest January and Feb- 
ruary of any place in British Columbia, the low- 
est average temperature being but a few degrees 
below freezing. 

Prince Rupert, a very rainy spot, is one of the 
coolest in summer and one of the mildest in winter 
of all Provincial towns. Balmy days throughout 
the year are the rule on the Queen Charlotte 
Islands, and spring vegetation is always far in ad- 
vance of that on the mainland. 

Jasper Park has long stretches of bright weather 
in July and August, occasionally interrupted by 
rain. In June and September, as might be ex- 
pected among mountains in a northern latitude, 
brief snow storms and some uncomfortably cold 
days are experienced by campers. Indian Summer 
among the Rockies is a season of unmatched de- 
light. 

All things considered, Victoria has the most 
agreeable climate of any place on the coast of 
Western Canada, and Edmonton the pleasantest 
weather of the region on the other side of the 
mountains. 

In nearly all parts of the Canadian Northwest 
the best touring season is from the middle of July 
to October. Those who travel in June are as- 
sured of cool days, but may encounter periods of 
rain. 



CHAPTER XIII 

HOTELS — CUISINE 
SPORTS — FESTIVALS 



Hotels. 

Not the least enjoyable feature of travel in Can- 
ada is the excellence of its tourist hotels, which 
like the railways form a chain from the East to 
the West. The houses of greatest pretension 
have the railways as proprietors. Visitors to Que- 
bec and Montreal know the world-famous Fronte- 
nac, and the Place Viger Hotel, both owned by 
the Canadian Pacific. Travellers who stay at Ot- 
tawa are superbly housed at the Grand Trunk 
Chateau Laurier, quite as beautiful a hotel as 
exists on our continent, and the centre of gaieties 
at the Capital. 

The Highland Inn, Nominigan Camp and Camp 
Minnesing at Algonquin Provincial Park, Ontario, 
and the new Minaki Inn and Annex at Minaki, on 
the way to Winnipeg, are part of the Grand Trunk 
chain. The Canadian Northern Railway operates 
the modern Prince Arthur at Port Arthur, On- 
tario, and the Prince Edward at Brandon, Mani- 
toba. 

Winnipeg's chief inducements for tourists to 
pause in the prairie metropolis on their way 
through Canada are the uncommon hotels of the 
Canadian Pacific and the Grand Trunk Pacific 
Systems. The Royal Alexandra, erected some 

324 



HOTELS — CUISINE — SPORTS — FESTIVALS 325 

years ago, is in keeping with the most luxurious 
traditions of Old Country hotels as to arrange- 
ment and decoration. The topaz salon on an up- 
per floor is as gorgeous an apartment as may be 
found in a house of entertainment; the lobby is 
reputed for its size and the dining-room for its 
painted frieze of historical subjects. There are 
a great number of private dining-rooms and a beau- 
tiful Imperial Suite. 

A most excellent reason for remaining at length 
in Winnipeg is the Fort Garry Hotel, which takes 
its name from the vine-covered relic in an adjoin- 
ing park, and is a few moments' walk from the 
Grand Trunk Pacific station, on a green-bordered 
boulevard. No hotel on either side the boundary 
surpasses this lofty hostelry in fastidious and 
stately charm, in appointments, cuisine and re- 
finements of attendance. 

Every one has heard the bon mot of Conan 
Doyle and the repartee of Lady Doyle anent the 
Fort Garry and the Chateau Laurier. It remains 
for some one of equal wit to celebrate the latest 
achievement of the Grand Trunk Pacific in hotel- 
making — the Macdonald at Edmonton. Placed 
on the banks of the Saskatchewan River with a 
broad look-off to highland forests and the spread- 
ing city, this chateau, grey stone as to walls and 
turreted as to roof like a French manor-house, has 
the personality of a host practised in hospitality, 
the bouquet of good wine matured. 

The joy of the Macdonald is its blend of mel- 
low manners with a punctilious equipment, and a 
service in bed-chambers, halls and public rooms 
beyond all cavilling. As to its cooking . . . 
When a waiter, whose name will be Andre or Hen- 
drik, seats you by the high terrace window — or 



326 THE TOURIST'S NORTHWEST, 

perhaps it is warm and you are dining on the 
terrace — command of the Franco-Flemish kitchen 
a breast of duck from the Alberta prairies. Let 
it be served with fried hominy and souffle sweet 
potatoes and a sauce of orange juice, currants 
and wine. Or let the piece de resistance be a 
mousse of Prince Rupert salmon dressed with 
mushrooms and truffles, and medallions of lobster 
poached in oyster juice. ... A frontier city's 
crude vigour clamours beyond the next block, but 
here a magic carpet is spread. One is served, one 
dines as well as any gourmet might dine in the 
city of gourmets across the water. 

At Regina and Prince Rupert and among the 
Rockies west of Edmonton, the Grand Trunk 
Pacific promises other hotels for the future, which 
are however still in prospect. 

A tent camp near Jasper, three miles by road 
from the station on the way to Medicine Lake and 
Maligne Lake, was first opened in the summer of 
1915. Well-floored and heated tents accommo- 
dating two to four persons form a most attractive 
settlement on the lake shore. A canvas pavilion 
of generous dimensions comprised the camp's first 
dining and sitting-room. So many appreciators 
of the Park sought entertainment in the first year 
that many improvements are to be made by the 
Edmonton lessees. 

Like Winnipeg, Calgary has little to reward a 
stay beyond a sumptuous hotel. The Palliser is 
one of the latest additions to the Canadian Pacific 
group, which comprises in all seventeen hotels ex- 
tending from New Brunswick to Vancouver Island. 
Built at an outlay of not less than $25,000,000, 
they represent the most important hotel enterprise 
in the world, and reflect endless credit upon the 



HOTELS — CUISINE — SPORTS — FESTIVALS 327 

company by whose foresight they have been placed 
at strategic travelling centres. All that has been 
said heretofore concerning the Canadian Pacific 
train and steamer service applies in equal measure 
to the hotel system. The furnishing and provis- 
ioning of inns, often far removed from market 
centres, and the securing of great numbers of 
servants for a limited period of time, are tasks 
for the stout-hearted. But commendation is the 
rule, serious complaint the exception among the 
company's thousands of tourist guests. 

Banff to the average traveller who has yet to 
know its charms signifies two things: very high 
mountains and the Canadian Pacific hotel. The 
village with its bright shops and tea-rooms, homes, 
gardens, museum and other hotels is a surprise to 
most arrivals. At the end of the bridge beyond 
the main street is the beautifully situated house 
misleadingly called the Sanitarium Hotel. The 
C. P. R. Banff Springs Hotel is a mile further on 
— a castle-like pile of stone with a view worth 
crossing two continents to see. 

The Chateau Lake Louise and its two large 
chalets is perhaps the most popular of the moun- 
tain inns. Successive wings have been added to 
make room for all who in a summer wish to stay 
here. Thousands of reservations are received in 
advance. In July and August, tourists who have 
not applied for rooms had best before descending 
at the station make inquiry of train officials — or 
indeed train officials often announce the probabil- 
ity or improbability of securing accommodation 
at the Inn of the Lake, high within its mountain 
fastness at the end of a three-mile road. 

At Field the Canadian Pacific built the first of its 
mountain hotels. Additions have been made from 



328 THE TOURIST'S NORTHWEST 

time to time, but here as at Banff, Lake Louise 
and Glacier, it is well to look to your rooms in ad- 
vance, if you are a midsummer tourist. 

Seven miles from the Mt. Stephen House at Field 
is Emerald Lake Chalet, a little place of unusually 
pleasant demeanour, and if a certain cook is still 
retained, a most unusually tasty home cuisine. 
The Canadian Pacific is also in charge of a 20- 
tent camp up the Yoho Valley, a dozen miles from 
Field, where guests are made comfortable for a 
month or a night in view of mighty cataracts and 
glaciers. 

Of the hotels south of the main railway one may 
speak with enthusiasm of the one at Invermere 
which is presided over by Mr. George Stark, and 
is reached from Athalmer station in the Winde- 
mere Valley, south of Golden. Motorists going to 
or from Banff by the new transmontane highway 
regard the journey incomplete which does not in- 
clude at least a night under the Invermere roof. 

East of Nelson, above Kootenay Lake, the 
Canadian Pacific has recently constructed the 
Kootenay Lake Hotel at Balfour, B. C, facing 
the Kootenay River. Guests especially remember 
this summer inn for its verandahs, for its interior 
decoration, reflecting the taste of Mrs. Hayter 
Reed, wife of a retired chief of the hotel depart- 
ment, and for its pink roses and old-fashioned 
garden. 

On the Arrow Lakes are a number of resort ho- 
tels and camps, but strangely no hostelry com- 
mensurate with their touristic importance. 
Those who journey to the foot of Okanagan Lake 
discover in the new Hotel Incola at Penticton a 
pleasant stopping-place, with an outlook directly 
upon the water. Both Kelowna and Naramata 



HOTELS — CUISINE — SPORTS — FESTIVALS 329 

have hotels for the accommodation of winter and 
summer vacationists. 

At Revelstoke, on the main line beyond the Sel- 
kirk-circled Glacier House, Mr. MacDonnell, a 
kindly host, keeps a hotel which perches high 
above smoothest lawns, and they in turn above the 
railway station. From this commanding plat- 
form Begbie and all the cordon about Revelstoke 
are revealed, and one looks far down the pass 
through which the rails run to Vancouver. 

The railway hotel at Sicamous stands between the 
track and the lakes called Shuswap. Though com- 
paratively small it is one of the most frequented 
houses on the line, as tourists often stay the night 
here en route east from Vancouver in order to see 
the best of the mountain scenery in the daylight. 
Other lodgers are passengers by the morning train 
for Okanagan Landing, and sportsmen attracted 
by the good hunting and fishing of the environs. 

In the Cariboo Country north of Ashcroft are 
taverns which are interesting because characteris- 
tic of picturesque days of the past and present of 
which the railway traveller gets no flavour. On 
Lake Atlin, B. C, reached via Alaska, are hotels 
which receive tourists and sportsmen. 

Five miles from Agassiz, a station on the main 
line south of Ashcroft and east of Vancouver, is the 
St. Alice Hotel at Harrison Hot Springs, well up 
in the hills below Mt. Che-am, and on the edge of 
the trout-lovers' Lake Harrison. 

Vancouver has a dozen hotels which house tour- 
ists. Some of them have promising names — the 
Castle, Lotus, Elysium, St. Francis, Grosvenor, 
but these are but lesser lights to make the mas- 
sive and elegant namesake of the city shine the 
brighter. The Hotel Vancouver and the Empress 



330 THE TOURIST'S NORTHWEST 

Hotel at Victoria, across the Strait of Georgia, 
are the pride of the Canadian Pacific System in 
the West, lavishly furnished, and maintained in 
every way according to the best standards of the 
company. Both hotels are strikingly situated in 
the centre of the communities they so capably serve. 

Within sight of the Hotel Vancouver is a guest- 
house which is sometimes mistakenly called the 
Vancouver Annex. Glencoe Lodge has an in- 
dividuality of its own, as has its mistress, the same 
Miss Jean Mollison who helped establish the re- 
nown of Chateau Lake Louise, who planted its 
rows of white and orange poppies, and frescoed 
the Maple Room with autumn leaves. Her gifts 
of management, well developed during years of 
association with the premier landlord of Canada, 
the Canadian Pacific Railway, are supplemented 
by a talent for collecting objects rare and beauti- 
ful, and placing them advantageously in her hotel 
homes. The drawing-rooms at Glencoe Lodge are 
well-ordered museums of oriental crafts — Indian 
stuffs, prayer-rugs, pottery, brasses, carved teak, 
pictures exquisitely wrought in thread by a fa- 
mous Japanese. The dining-room of this unusual 
hotel is decoratively served by stoic Chinese in 
native silks. 

Miss Mollison is also proprietor of the Glenshiel 
Inn at Victoria, near the Canadian Pacific docks 
and hotel, and of Strathcona Lodge on Shawnigan 
Lake, one of the gems of Vancouver Island. 
Braemar Lodge, Calgary, is another of the Mol- 
lison chain, there being a sister in charge of each 
house. 

The Wigwam, at Indian River Park, is one of sev- 
eral good resort hotels among the inlets and can- 
yons north of Vancouver. 



HOTELS — CUISINE — SPORTS — FESTIVALS 331 

At Cameron Lake, on Vancouver Island, the Ca- 
nadian Pacific has erected a lodging-place with 
tents for passers-by — motorists, tourists by rail, 
fishermen, mountaineers, drawn hither by the great 
beauty of surrounding water and a forest of sky- 
reaching firs, and by the proximity of Mt. Arrow- 
smith. 

A strange little ark, " twenty bedrooms on a 
raft," moves with the fish on Great Central Lake, 
beyond Alberni, in the centre of the Island. 

An attractive and somewhat modish inn receives 
guests at Qualicum Beach. There are other hotels 
at Cowichan Lake, and along the Island High- 
way to Campbell River. The Willows, at the last- 
mentioned point on the coast, is a rendezvous 
for world sportsmen, who discuss on its ver- 
andahs the excitements of the day's salmon fish- 
ing- 

Saanich Inlet, which penetrates for miles the 
coast north of Victoria, affords at its head a rare 
site for the roomy and congenial Brentwood Ho- 
tel, an inn reminiscent of England, as befits the 
favourite woodland resort of Victorians, and of a 
particularly pleasing air. An Englishman, Mr. 
Herbert Cancellor, plays host for a British syndi- 
cate, and his wife, all who go there like to know, 
is another Mollison sister. 

As to hotel terms in Western Canada, city hotels 
of the best class make a European plan rate of $2 
and up per day for a single room. Rooms with 
bath, $3 a day, suites of parlour, bedroom and 
bath from $8 upward. Meal service is a la carte, 
or at a prix fixe, but charges are sufficiently rea- 
sonable to enable a guest to live at the Macdonald, 
the Vancouver, the Empress, and other hotels 



332 THE TOURIST'S NORTHWEST 

of the same grade, for $5 or $6 a day including 
room and three meals, and use of bath. 

The Canadian Pacific mountain hotels make a 
minimum American plan rate of $4 a day, with 
the exception of Chateau Lake Louise, where the 
minimum charge is $5 a day. 

A rear page of the railway time-table gives a 
list of all the hotels of the system, with rates per 
day and per single meal. 

At resorts like Balfour, Penticton, Qualicum 
Beach, Brentwood and Shawnigan Lake, $2.50 to 
$3.50 is asked, the former rate applying to Strath- 
cona Lodge, and, as well, to Glenshiel Inn. Glen- 
coe Lodge provides bed and meals for a minimum 
charge of $3 a day, or a bed alone for $1. 

The Yoho Valley (Field) camp rate is $4 a day; 
that at Jasper Park camp a dollar less. 

Some European plan hotels give lodging for 
75 cents to $1 a night. In Vancouver are a num- 
ber of restaurants and tea-rooms in the Granville 
Street district where well-cooked meals are served 
at very moderate rates. 

Cuisine. 

The wild game and fish of Western Canada 
offer the novelties of the menu. On a certain 
Christmas Day the King Edward Hotel, Banff, 
meeting-place of guides and mighty hunters, 
served, with the assistance of its guests, the fol- 
lowing meats on the holiday bill of fare: Buf- 
falo, antelope, mule deer, bear, moose, Rocky 
Mountain sheep and goat, wild geese, ducks and 
prairie chicken — all stuffed with reminiscence and 
spiced with hazards of the chase. 

If one asks a specialty of the chef at the Mt. 
Stephen House, Field, he will serve in season a 



HOTELS — CUISINE — SPORTS — FESTIVALS 333 

moose steak with chestnut sauce, or a mountain 
trout " broiled on the flesh side, then on the skin 
side, just enough to make the skin brown and 
crisp," and served on a hot platter with sprin- 
klings of paprika and parsley. 

Laurent at the Fort Garry stuffs fillets of 
speckled trout with lobster, stews them in sau- 
terne, and enriches them with white wine sauce 
and Beluga caviar. A recipe " of an excellence," 
but no better than " Spring chicken Saute Grand 
Trunk," for which Laurent demands not only a 
chicken in its first youth, but portions of cham- 
pagne, cream, little shallots and fresh mushrooms 
to smother it with. 

At the Macdonald one may have a venison chop 
cooked with Virginia ham and served on an island 
of buttered toast. With this nothing goes bet- 
ter than a potpourri salad contrived by Dierken 
of romaine, endive, lettuce, tomato and chilled cu- 
cumber, and dressed with a mayonnaise specked 
green and red with peppers, parsley, shallots and 
chili sauce, to which an epicure's portion of Tara- 
gon vinegar has been added. 

The St. Alice Hotel, Harrison Hot Springs, has 
an individual way of doing lake trout. In this 
connection it is impossible to ignore the Lake Su- 
perior trout au gratin served on the steamers of 
the Northern Navigation Company, which rivals 
in delicacy the planked whitefish that is another 
specialty of the line. 

Pacific Coast hotels offer many excellent sea- 
foods. The iced cracked crabs of Prince Rupert 
restaurants, luscious giants related to the Dun- 
geness species, compensate weary hours of waiting 
in a most uninteresting town. Paul Maury, chef 
at the Hotel Vancouver, prepares fillet of sole by 



334 THE TOURIST'S NORTHWEST 

wrapping each strip about a native oyster and 
baking slowly in a sauce worthy of a Frenchman 
— - and the Hotel Vancouver. 

If you are fond of Chop Suey, Wong Gen Ming 
will make you a dish at Glencoe Lodge of chicken, 
pork and mushrooms, onions, celery stalks and 
bamboo shoots, and Sing Song will bring it you 
with a silver boat of strange black liquor that en- 
hances both mystery and flavour, and gives palates 
a new sensation. 

On lake steamers and at hotels in the Okanagan 
Valley, summer menus are refreshed by home- 
grown peaches, grapes, apples, plums and cher- 
ries. In July, the tables at the Sicamous Hotel 
are gay with compotes of red Okanagan berries 
served on mats of fresh leaves. The Revelstoke 
region grows famous cherries small and sweet, and 
acres of wild raspberries. Vancouver Island spe- 
cialties are good fruit and an unfailing variety of 
fish and crustaceans. 

The dining-car service of the Canadian Pacific 
Railway has several unique features. A number 
of farms are owned by the company at convenient 
points along the line from which garden produce 
is received, besides dairy and hot house products. 
At principal division points, Montreal, Winnipeg, 
Moose Jaw, Calgary and Vancouver, shops are 
established from which cars are daily supplied with 
rolls, bread of several sorts, and cakes and ice 
cream, — neat and floury, crisp-scented places that 
one likes to remember when he orders coffee and 
rolls, or regales himself on an ice in one of the 
company's wheeled restaurants. Here are re- 
frigerators full of poultry, fish and meats, cooling 
rooms for wines, fruits and green vegetables, and 



HOTELS — CUISINE — SPORTS — FESTIVALS 335 

store-rooms for condiments, preserves, tinned veg- 
etables, syrups and cheeses that would strike with 
envy any housewife. 

Data supplied by courtesy of the General Super- 
intendent of the Canadian Pacific Dining-car Ser- 
vice at Winnipeg, gives some further facts of in- 
terest to railway patrons. On the 140 dining, 
cafe and buffet cars operated by the company 
are served an average of over 8000 meals a day. 
Of meat and poultry over a million and a half 
pounds are consumed in a year, of bread 700,000 
loaves, of milk and cream over a million quarts, 
of potatoes 50,000 bushels, with other foodstuffs 
in proportion. Special baking potatoes, having a 
smooth clear skin and weighing on an average one 
to one and a half pounds each, are wrapped sep- 
arately and delivered by supply farms in bushel 
boxes. Cakes are boxed in individual portions, 
biscuits and after-dinner mints in dust-proof en- 
velopes, milk in bottles which hold a glassful or 
two glassfuls each. Eggs are not more than seven 
days old, are non-fertile and white-shelled, and 
each is stamped with the date of issue from farm 
or supply house. At the end of every trip all food 
supplies remaining on a car are withdrawn and 
closely inspected in the division storeroom. 

No steward, cook, waiter, sleeping-car conductor 
or porter is put on a Canadian Pacific train with- 
out having graduated from one of the schools 
of instruction held at various employment points. 
Dining-car employes are governed by rules as to 
portions and service contained in a 200-page book- 
let, " Standard of Orders, and Table Service," 
issued by the company. At " lay-over stations " 
stewards and porters have the use of dormitories, 
baths and recreation rooms without cost. In the 



336 THE TOURIST'S NORTHWEST 

company tailor shop, all uniforms are pressed and 
cleaned free at the end of each trip. 

The latest departure of the Canadian Pacific 
Dining-car Department relates to dietetic menus 
prepared for the company by Dr. Harvey W. 
Wiley, as an aid to the patron in ordering prop- 
erly blended meals suited to his needs when travel- 
ling. 

Canadian Pacific station restaurants and lunch 
counters are reasonable in price and conform in 
cuisine and attendance to the company's high 
standard. 

In general, the cookery of Western Canadian 
restaurants is good, in a few places where Euro- 
pean cooks are employed, superlatively good. 
Chinese chefs spoil the broth in some hotels, but 
in justice to their employers it may be said that 
only Chinese can be hired in certain localities. 
Occasionally a Wong Gen Ming, or a Li such as 
presided for years over the culinary regions of 
the Hotel Vancouver and now influences patron- 
age at the Alberta, Calgary, is discovered by a 
fortunate hotel-keeper. But it may be put down 
as a rule that a kitchen where one glimpses a Chi- 
nese staff will yield tasteless concoctions, neither 
Canadian nor Celestial, but vapid watery foods, 
scantily seasoned and sparsely buttered: in other 
words, Oriental misconceptions of North Ameri- 
can dishes which discourage the appetite, and de- 
prive meal-time of all its anticipations. 

On the contrary, Japanese cooks embellish 
Western foods with a racy and artistic touch. 
The best apple pie it is possible to conceive is made 
by an American-trained Japanese at the Pullen 
House, Skagway, Alaska. 



HOTELS — CUISINE — SPORTS — FESTIVALS 337 

Sports. 

Hunting and Fishing Licenses. 

Alberta: Residents, $2.50; non-residents, $25; 
for birds, $5. Collector's license for birds, $5. 

British Columbia : General License, fee $100, 
for all species of game in season, also fishing. 
Bear license, $25 ; birds, $50 ; special weekly bird 
license (for British subjects only) $5, obtainable 
at the discretion of the Provincial Game Warden 
at Vancouver. Fishing license, $5. Officers of 
the Army and Navy, both British and Canadian 
who are on actual duty in the Province are exempt 
from all fees for hunting and fishing licenses. 

It is not lawful to hunt on Sunday, nor between 
one hour after sunset and one hour before sunrise. 

Licenses are issued by the Provincial Game 
Warden at Edmonton, Alberta, and Vancouver, 
British Columbia, and by Government and railway 
agents at various centres, such as Calgary, Banff, 
Field, Golden, Cranbrook, Nelson, Princeton. 
Revelstoke, Ashcroft, Nanaimo, Alberni, Prince 
Rupert, Hazelton, Telegraph Creek and Atlin. 

Provincial Wardens and railway company head- 
quarters will send on application exhaustive book- 
lets concerning game laws, open seasons, bag limits, 
penalties, and the best districts for hunting and 
fishing. Railway folders also give the names of 
outfitters, guides and hotels in sporting localities. 

A leaflet may be had of the Brewster Transport 
Company at Banff, Lake Louise, Field or Jasper 
station, Alta. James Simpson, head packer for 
the Alpine Club's yearly outings, and guide, phi- 
losopher and friend of many noted sportsmen, may 
also be addressed at the King Edward Hotel, 
Banff, for advice concerning every sort of expedi- 
tion among the mountains of Alberta. 



338 THE TOURIST'S NORTHWEST 

There are a number of game preserves in Alberta 
and British Columbia for the repair of past rav- 
ages by Stony Indians and unscrupulous white 
men, but fishing is everywhere permitted and hunt- 
ing is permitted outside these scattered preserves 
in all that great reach of semi-wild territory which 
extends from the Kootenay River to Atlin, and 
from the Waterton Lakes, Calgary and Edmonton 
to Alberni and Prince Rupert, — a territory equal 
to the total area of the United Kingdom, abound- 
ing in big and small game, game birds and gamy 
fish. 

Prized more than those of moose or caribou are 
the heads of the Rocky Mountain goat and sheep 
which are sought by hunters north of Banff and 
Lake Louise, in the Kootenay Districts, in the Sel- 
kirks, and sheep above all in the Lillooet hunting- 
grounds, and in the Cassiar country about the 
source of the Stikine River, 1 " the best all-around 
district on the continent." 

This far north range is inhabited by moose, cari- 
bou, sheep, goat, grizzly bear, black bear and foxes. 
Hunters report in normal years an average of 
seven or eight heads a gun. A 60-inch spread of 
moose antlers is not uncommon, and heads with a 
spread of 66 inches are said to have been taken. 
" Forty-point " caribou, Stone's sheep heads with 
a 14-inch horn base, and goat with an 11-inch 
spread of horn are trophies commonly secured. 
Bear are enormously prolific along the tributaries 
of the Stikine River. Cassiar is an expensive dis- 
trict to hunt in because of the cost of provisions, 
horses and guides. 

In the vicinity of Atlin, B. C., 1 near the Yukon 

i For routes see last paragraphs under " Tours," this chap- 
ter. 



HOTELS — CUISINE — SPORTS — FESTIVALS 339 

border, is another " best game region in North 
America." Here horses cost $3 a day each, 
the wages of a guide are $7.50 a day and 
board, a packer who is also the horse-wrangler, 
must be hired at $5 a day. A cook receives $3.50 
a day, and provisions per person for each day 
cost about a dollar. Schultz and Sinclair, hotel 
proprietors and outfitters at Atlin, supply bed- 
ding without charge to patrons. Here, if you are 
a miner, you may hunt free in the hills. Moose 
antlers measure 60 to 68 inches in this vicinity. 
The world's record was established by two moose 
heads taken near Cordova, southeastern Alaska, 
which had a spread of 84 inches each one. In that 
region there are no low-limbed trees to retard 
growth. 

The District of Cariboo is hunted for sheep, 
bear, moose, deer, caribou and wild fowl. For the 
grounds about the Frazer River's source, Prince 
George, B. C, on the Grand Trunk Pacific, is the 
best outfitting point. For the Skeena District, 
deer and bear hunters outfit at Hazelton. 

In Alberta, moose are found in large numbers 
on the North Saskatchewan River and the Atha- 
basca River, and caribou north of the fifty-fifth 
parallel. 

The American elk, called wapiti by the Indians, 
are a large species of the European red deer. 
They grace the ranges of Vancouver Island, the 
East Kootenay District and Alberta, and have 
greatly increased under protection. Deer of sev- 
eral kinds are hunted on the coast and in the in- 
terior. Fine trophies are obtained in the Fraser 
River country and about the head of Pacific in- 
lets. 

Hundreds of cougar, also called pumas or moun- 



340 THE TOURIST'S NORTHWEST 

tain lions, are killed each year on Vancouver Is- 
land, a bounty of $15 a head being in force. A 
profitable going-in point is on the coast of the 
Island opposite Alert Bay. Mr. Angus of the 
Brentwood Hotel shot a cougar eight and three- 
quarter feet long on Malahat Mountain. Alert 
Bay, on an island at the entrance of Queen Char- 
lotte Sound, is also a base for cougar, bear, goat 
and wolverine hunting on the mainland. 

The timber-wolf particularly infests the Atlin 
and Skeena districts, but is present in disconcert- 
ing numbers in many other parts of Canada. This 
is the long-limbed, prowlish creature with thick 
greyish-yellow pelt which devastates big game 
haunts and stock ranges, and is believed to have 
had its origin in the wolf family of Siberia. Ex- 
cellent specimens may be seen in the zoological 
garden at Banff. Just outside the village are 
paddocks for Big-Horn sheep, buffalo and moose. 

The author of Camp-Fires in the Canadian 
Rockies, a classic among books on American game, 
relates hunting adventures in southeastern British 
Columbia " where the true Big-Horn reaches its 
maximum development." It is known that 
throughout the wide range of the Ovis Canadensis 
the largest horns are found within a radius of two 
hundred miles of Banff. Dr. Hornaday gives the 
measurements of five specimens. The largest one 
has a circumference about the base of the horn of 
seventeen and one half inches. Matured horns 
true to type curve out and downward, then almost 
back upon themselves in a pointed graceful coil. 
The eyes of the Big-Horn are set wide between 
small ears that turn obliquely to the head. The 
nostrils are slender and sensitive, the shoulders 
narrow and sloping, the back well saddled and the 



HOTELS — CUISINE — SPORTS — FESTIVALS 341 

haunches trimly placed. The flesh, moreover, is 
surpassingly good to eat. Other animals have 
greater height and power, the mountain goat has 
a heavier, softer fleece and greater skill in scaling 
perpendicular walls, but the Big-Horn is the most 
alluring of mountain creatures. 

Says Dr. Hornaday, " the Big-Horn sheep is an 
animal of nervous-sanguine temperament, not so 
insanely foolish as the mule deer and white-tailed 
deer, nor yet so lymphatic as the goat. It is a 
far more graceful walker and runner than the goat, 
and also more agile and fleet of foot. A mountain 
sheep can run over rough ground, or leap through 
the mazes of down timber, as nimbly as any deer, 
and as rapidly. A goat runs on level ground with 
the grace and ease of a fat yearling calf. . . . 

" The natural enemies of the mountain sheep in 
British Columbia are the golden and the white- 
headed eagle, and further south, the puma or 
* mountain lion.' In the western Kootenay coun- 
try, a guide . . . saw a golden eagle bearing off a 
mountain sheep lamb. He followed the bird, and 
finally found its nest, and its brood of eaglets. 
Around the nest lay the skulls of several lambs, 
showing that the mother bird had been making 
a specialty of that kind of food for her young." 

The author affirms the mountain goat to be " the 
most picturesque and droll-looking of all our 
large game animals. . . . The pelage of the 
mountain goat is the finest and softest, and also 
the warmest, to be found on any North Ameri- 
can hoofed animal except the musk-ox. 

" The hoofs," says this student of goats, "are 
like big, twin masses of india rubber — a ball of 
soft rubber, encased in a strong shell of hard 
rubber. It is chiefly the soft rubber which en- 



342 THE TOURIST'S NORTHWEST 

ables this strange animal to climb as it does. . . . 
The long, straight beard of a male goat always 
imparts to the animal an uncanny, and even hu- 
manlike appearance. When he sits down, dog- 
fashion, and turns his head first one way and 
then another . . . his appearance is strongly 
suggestive of patriarchal humanity. ... 

" The true abiding-place of the mountain goat is 
from timber-line to the tops of the summit divides, 
and the precipices which buttress the peaks," says 
Hornaday, and quotes the statement of Warbur- 
ton Pike, that " the goat is the most widely dis- 
tributed animal in British Columbia, and except 
the black bear is the only animal found through- 
out the length and breadth of the Province." 

One of the camp-fire talks relates to the grizzly 
bear, now almost extinct in the United States, 
but still to be shot in Western Canada if the right 
season and district is chosen. The end of May 
is the propitious period in which to discover the 
" silver-tip " just emerging from his winter 
snooze. The coat, however, is not at its plushy 
best until autumn. " September is the month of 
bear migration, from the lower valleys upward, 
feeding on berries all the way. . . . After the 
berries are gone, the bears dig for * gophers.' 
. . . When digging becomes impossible, they seek 
their winter dens, and hibernate." 

As to the ferocity of the grizzly, " Like the 
wolves of the Northwest, the grizzly bears of to- 
day know well that a deadly rifle is the natural 
corollary to a man. Nine grizzlies out of every 
ten will run the moment a man is discovered, no 
matter what the distance may be from bear to 
man. The tenth will charge you fearlessly, espe- 
cially if you make your attack from below, . . . 



HOTELS — CUISINE — SPORTS — FESTIVALS 343 

" Both in the United States and British Colum- 
bia, the grizzly bears of to-day are not extremely 
large. . . . Seven years are necessary to the 
production of specimens of the largest size. To- 
day any grizzly that will weigh seven hundred 
and fifty pounds may fairly be called a very large 
one. 

" Eliminate the bears from the Canadian Rock- 
ies," says the final paragraph of the chapter, "and 
a considerable percentage of the romance and wild 
charm which now surrounds them, will be gone. 
So long as grizzlies remain to make awesome tracks 
and dig 6 gophers,' just so long will brain-weary 
men take the long trail to find them, climb moun- 
tains until they are half-dead of precious physical 
fatigue, and whether they kill grizzlies or not, they 
will return like new men, vowing that they have 
had the grandest of all outings." 

Minor members of the great game family of the 
Northwest are the raccoon, land-otter, marten, 
mink, badger, porcupine, the whistling marmot, 
Little Chief hare, rabbit, weasel and wolverine. 
The last-named is minor in size only. In vicious- 
ness and in persistency in gnawing at a trap, he 
is said by mountain savants to surpass his big- 
ger fellows. 

Wild fowl include ducks and geese, especially 
numerous on the Alberta plains, in the Windermere 
Valley, on the Okanagan marshes and near Mas- 
sett, Queen Charlotte Islands ; snipe, blue grouse 
and ruffed grouse about Vancouver, Victoria and 
the Lower Fraser Valley; the Chinese pheasant, 
imported in 1882 and thrifty in many districts ; 
quail, capercailzie and prairie-chicken, 



344, THE TOURIST'S NORTHWEST 

Salmon and trout are the aristocrats of the Brit- 
ish Columbia and Alberta game fish. The Pacific 
salmon is not of the family Salmo like its distant 
cousin, the salmon of Atlantic seas and rivers, 
but is classified as of the oncorhynchus species, 
peculiar to the Western coast. Of the several 
varieties, the cohoe is the most common. It is 
taken by trolling and weighs up to 15 pounds. 
Campbell River, V. I., and other places on the 
Strait of Georgia, are the resort of cohoe fisher- 
men in July and August. 

In mid-summer the tyee or king salmon also 
runs strong in Valdez Straits north and south 
of the mouth of the Campbell River, but no longer 
in the river, according to those who know, because 
of the impediment of a logging camp and its rafts. 
Fish weighing up to 70 pounds are taken here 
on a " Wobbler " spoon, with a rod varying from 
the length of a tarpon rod to one 18 feet long, 
and a 150-yard enamelled line. Ninety-pound fish 
are landed with a hand-line. 

Prince Rupert and Port Simpson see splendid 
fishing for spring salmon in early March and for 
cohoes in the summer. 

Many names are given to the trout of the West- 
ern provinces. A Classified Guide to Fish and 
their Habitat in the Rocky Mountains Park, is- 
sued by the Department of the Interior, Ottawa, 
specifies the Cut Throat, the Lake, the Brook, the 
Dolly Varden and the Bull Trout as inhabiting 
the waters of the Park, and gives the Lake Trout 
of Lake Minnewanka, a few miles from Banff, 
precedence as to weight, 47 pounds being the rec- 
ord. We are assured that it is not unusual for 
anglers of park streams to get two or three Cut 
Throat on their cast at one time. Consolation 



HOTELS — CUISINE — SPORTS — FESTIVALS 345 

Lake, near Lake Louise, " gives only Cut Throat 
fishing, but plenty of that. At Moraine Lake 
you get them all — Dolly Varden, Silver, Cut 
Throat and Grayling, also Nipigon Trout." 

The Waterton Lake National Park, near the 
borders of southwestern Alberta, offers excellent 
fishing for trout of many kinds, including the 
namaycush, which weighs at its maximum thirty 
pounds. Trout are caught in Jasper Park, in the 
lakes about Edmonton, in many parts of the 
Kootenay, Kamloops and Okanagan Districts, in 
the region either side of Sicamous, at Harrison 
Lake, and in Cowichan, Cameron, Shawnigan and 
Great Central Lakes, Vancouver Island, and at 
Qualicum and Alberni. 

In sum, it would be a shorter task to name the 
districts of the " mountain provinces " in which 
no fish, fowl or game awaited the sportsmen, than 
to enumerate the centres where one or all three 
abound. 

Bulletm Number Seventeen, prepared by the 
Provincial Game Warden and published by the 
British Columbia Bureau of Provincial Informa- 
tion, contains a fascinating summary of a the- 
oretical sport tour lasting through all the months 
of a year, which is so suggestive of routes, game 
habitats, game behaviour and multitude that it 
is quoted herewith almost in full. 

First we are reminded as to hunting clothes. 
In the writer's opinion the suit should be " of 
some soft material that will not rustle. It should 
be of a light-brown or grey colour, with the coat 
big enough to wear a sweater underneath and 
still be loose. It should have plenty of pockets. 
You cannot beat knickerbockers, but be sure they 
are loose, especially at the knee, as you require 



346 THE TOURIST'S NORTHWEST 

perfect freedom to climb in comfort. ' Putties ' 
are splendid at any time of the year, and with 
snow on the ground they are especially good. 
On no account wear leather leggings or field-boots ; 
low boots, preferably oil-tanned, of only medium 
weight, with broad soles and heels, capable of 
carrying a few nails, are by far the best. Most 
of Kootenay and parts of the coast will necessi- 
tate the wearing of nailed boots for hunting, but 
almost everywhere else it is absolutely necessary 
to wear rubber-soled shoes or boots, as you will 
make too much noise in nailed boots, however care- 
ful you may be. A couple of flannel shirts and 
sweaters and a goodly supply of socks will also 
be needed, in addition to some good woollen under- 
wear. Do not forget a couple of big silk hand- 
kerchiefs, and always keep one in your pocket 
if you are going after sheep ; and even if it is a 
fine warm day, get your guide to carry your 
sweater, you may need them both badly before 
you get back to camp. On the coast you will 
require gum boots or thigh-waders as well as oil- 
skins." 

Under the title, " Sport the Year Round," these 
paragraphs follow: 

While British Columbia is pretty generally known as a 
splendid game country, very few people actually realise its 
true value, and that from year's end to year's end either 
gun, rifle, or rod can be used, so that a man who is fond 
of shooting and fishing can always find something to tax 
his skill. Of course, the amount of success met with will, 
to a certain extent, depend on the man himself, and even 
with the best of men there will be biank days; but there 
is no country in the world where so many different varieties 
of sport can be successfully enjoyed. 

It does not matter at what time of the year you come, but, 
presuming you are going to start on big game, it would be 
as well to be here early in August. This would enable you 
to get into the Cassiar country, presuming, of course, you 



HOTELS — CUISINE — SPORTS — FESTIVALS 347 

have engaged your guide and horses beforehand. The C. P. 
R. and Grand Trunk Pacific boats leave Vancouver every 
week for Wrangell, Alaska, and the one that leaves nearest 
to August twelfth would be the best to take. At Wrangell 
you will probably go up the Stikine River to Telegraph 
Creek on a river-launch. You should then be in camp on 
your hunting-grounds ready for September 1st. You will 
not get any wapiti or deer there, but, if you can do a good 
day's walk and are even a moderate shot, you could hardly 
fail to get specimens of moose, Osborn's caribou, Stone's 
sheep, and mountain goats, with a good chance of a grizzly 
or black bear or a wolf or fox. Do not spend any time 
actually hunting for bear, as you will have a better chance 
at them in the spring, when their fur is prime. 

Get your sheep first. You are allowed to kill three in all, 
but only two of any one species; and while you might get 
specimens of all the so-called species, the Ovis stonei, fannini, 
and dalli, they are so closely related and grade so much 
from one to the other that it is best only to kill two, as you 
may have a chance at a brown sheep (Ovis canadensis) later 
on. Stick to your sheep till you have got what you want, 
and do not tie yourself down to so much time to get each 
species, or you are liable to find you are hurrying, which 
is a most fatal thing to do. If you get your sheep easily, 
then go after goats; but if you have spent much time over 
your sheep, do not bother about goats, as you can easily 
get them anywhere later on. 

By the third week in September you should have got both 
your sheep and goats and have moved camp to the moose- 
grounds, which are generally in close proximity to the sheep ; 
they now have their horns quite free of velvet, which is not 
the case early in September. Unless you are extremely par- 
ticular about your heads, ten days at the outside ought to be 
enough to get a couple of moose, but it greatly depends 
which country you are in: as a general rule, the farther 
north the more moose, the farther south the more sheep, and 
farther east the more caribou? so if you have a particular 
fancy for any one of these species you can govern yourself 
accordingly. 

Unless you are very unlucky you will get your caribou 
easily, and if you are to the east of Dease Lake should be 
able to pick almost any sort of a head you choose. 

The end of the third week in October should find you on 
your way back to Vancouver, and if you do not waste any 
time you can get into the Lillooet District and have a couple 
of weeks after the Ovis canadensis. Sheep-stalking in Lil- 
looet is grand work, as, while there are plenty of good rams 
left, they are very wild and will tax your utmost skill; still, 
considering the excellent supply of guides Lillooet is blest 
with, you ought to have no difficulty in getting a man who 
will give you a fair chance at a nice ram. The season for 



348 THE TOURIST'S NORTHWEST 

sheep closes on November 15th, and then is the time for 
mule-deer; the season for mule-deer does not close till De- 
cember 15th, and as the Lillooet District is the pick of the 
Province for this game, you have plenty of time to get all 
the heads you are allowed, and a goat or two as well, if 
you have not already got them. 

This trip should be over by the end of November, and if 
you contented yourself with two caribou in Cassiar you 
might go on up the line to Sicamous, and from there on the 
Vernon line to Mara, from which point you can get into 
the caribou-grounds in a day's ride. In this district you 
could get a specimen of the black or mountain caribou and 
a good chance of a shot at a grizzly if the winter has not 
come on early. The season for caribou closes at the end of 
December, and you will now have to return to the coast and 
hunt wolves and cougars. On Vancouver Island the latter 
are very numerous, but you must have a man with a regular 
cougar-dog, as there is very little use trying to stalk them. 
You may also get a shot at a wolf, especially if you go to 
the west coast. 

During January there is a good deal of bad weather, and 
you will probably be tired of being out in camp, so you had 
better go to Campbell or Oyster River, at both of which 
places there are hotels, and do a little wildfowl-shooting. 
If, however, you really want good sport at these birds, you 
must hire a launch and go to out-of-the-way places. Wild- 
fowl-shooting generally lasts till the end of February, but if 
you are a keen fisherman you will also have been able to 
get a few salmon any time during or after December. 

During March there is generally excellent salmon-fishing 
in many places, but about as good a place as you could go 
to would be Port Simpson, and you could catch fish almost 
at the hotel door. The best water, however, is in Work 
Channel, a few miles away. The fish at this time are not as 
plentiful as in the fall months, but they make up for it in 
size and gameness; you may catch them anywhere from 15 
pounds up to 60 or 70 pounds. If you do not feel like go- 
ing so far north, there are numbers of places all along the 
coast where fair sport can be obtained; even in Vancouver 
harbour a number of salmon are taken every year, but if 
you want the big fish you must go north. The run of salmon 
lasts well on until after the season for trout, which opens 
on March 26th on the coast, but not until May 1st in the 
interior. As soon as the trout are in season you had better 
fish for the famous steelhead (Salmo gardnerei), which runs 
from about 8 to 20 pounds in weight, and is one of the 
gamest fish that swim. They will not rise to the fly until 
the summer months, but will have to be caught by spinning. 
There are numerous streams frequented by these fish, but 
probably the Vedder Creek, near Chilliwack, the Cheakamus, 
up the Squamish Valley; and the Coquihalla, at Hope, are 




IN OLD MASSETT, QUEEN CHARLOTTE ISLANDS. BRITISH 
COLUMBIA 



HOTELS — CUISINE — SPORTS — FESTIVALS 349 

the pick. At all these streams you can also obtain sport 
with Dolly Varden and a few sea trout, but the fly-fishing 
will not be on until later. 

By the middle to end of April, according to whether there 
is an early or late spring, you should be ready for bear; 
and remember it is better to be on your ground early even 
if it is necessary to wait a week or ten days for them to 
come out of their dens. At this time of year there is gen- 
erally snow still left in the dense forests, but it has left the 
old " slides " (places where there have been avalanches are 
locally called "slides"). As soon as enough grass has 
grown on the slides to make them look green is the time 
to watch them. You must also remember that the growth 
on these slides varies a week or a fortnight, according to 
the exposure; and while one slide may be quite green, 
another may still have snow on it. The black bears come 
out of their dens first and have their pelts in prime con- 
dition ; they are very hungry after their long fast and spend 
a good deal of time feeding, and may often be found right 
down on the beach feeding on the young grass growing just 
above the high-water mark, or hunting for a small fish called 
" oolachans," of which there is a run about this time. 

The grizzlies are generally out about a fortnight later 
than the black bears, and usually keep farther back from 
salt-water, though they are occasionally seen on the beach. 
In some places they frequent the creeks and river-bottoms, 
looking for the remains of last year's salmon; in other 
places they are only to be found on the slides, and are then 
always higher up than the black bears. The evenings are 
by far the best, early mornings are good too, but you 
are liable to see them at any time of day if it is fine. 
Good binoculars are essential, as you must examine all 
slides and grassy places from a distance. Do not do any 
shooting at targets, as a few shots will send any bear that 
happens to be close five miles away. Above all, remember 
to watch the wind, as the bear's scent is as good, if not 
better, than the sheep's. 

As to the best places to go, there are thousands of black 
bear all along the coast, and their pelts are better than 
those of the interior. Up all the long inlets there are 
grizzlies; their fur, on the other hand, is not equal to those 
of the interior, and you seldom or never find one of the 
so-called silver-tips on the coast. If you want really good 
grizzly, perhaps it would be as well to go to Kootenay or 
Lillooet; but if you are not so particular as to the quality 
of your grizzly, any of the streams at the head of the long 
inlets will do. The Iskoot, a tributary of the Stikine, is 
most excellent, but it requires a regular crew of Indians to 
navigate the rough water. 

After the end of June you will have to content yourself 
with the trout-fishing. Go first to the lake near Kamloops 



350 THE TOURIST'S NORTHWEST 

for a few days; from there you might go on to Procter, on 
the Kootenay River, and catch one of the big landlocked 
salmon, or you could go back and fish for trout on the 
Campbell River until the big run of salmon begins. The 
cohoe salmon begin to run in July, but the famed "tyee" 
salmon not much before the end of that month, and their 
run continues on to the beginning of the next shooting 
season. 

This sketch of how a man can spend his time can, of 
course, be varied a great deal to meet individual tastes. For 
instance, some men might not care about so much big-game 
shooting; they could exercise their skill on snipe, pheasant, 
prairie-chicken, or grouse; others might get tired of fishing; 
there is a wide field for mountaineers in the Rockies and 
Selkirks; yachting amongst the countless islands in the gulf. 
There are a thousand-and-one ways of spending time, so 
that a man, whatever his tastes may be, is sure to find some 
sort of sport to suit him. 

Mountaineering. 

The year 1888 is given as the birth-date of Cana- 
dian mountaineering. Three years earlier, the 
summit of Mt. Stephen had been reached by J. J. 
McArthur, a member of the Dominion Land Sur- 
vey, and as far back as 1793 the northern Cordil- 
lera had been traversed by various passes for pur- 
poses of trade and discovery. But climbing for 
the sport of it had its inception in the exploits of 
Green and Swanzy, two clergymen, members of 
the American Alpine Club, who spent some weeks 
exploring the Selkirks in the year mentioned. 
Green's book, Among the Selkirk Glaciers, " had 
much to do with the first awakening of interest in 
the American Switzerland," writes Sir James 
Outram, himself an author and climber of inter- 
national repute. " Two years later, Messrs. 
Huber and Sulzer, of the Swiss Alpine Club, made 
the first ascent of Mt. Sir Donald, the most con- 
spicuous and noted peak of the Selkirk Range. 
...In 1893, Messrs. W. D. Wilcox and S. E. S. 



HOTELS — CUISINE — SPORTS — FESTIVALS 351 

Allen, both Yale students, commenced the valuable 
series of explorations in the neighbourhood of the 
Divide, which opened up a vast area of new 
ground and introduced the rope and ice-axe with 
conspicuous success. . • . 

" The next year was signalised by the appear- 
ance of the Appalachian Mountain Club, of Bos- 
ton, headed by Professor Charles E. Fay, and to 
the Club, and pre-eminently to the Professor . • • 
no tribute of praise and admiration can be too 
lavishly bestowed by all who love the peaks and 
other noble features of this wild home of Nature's 
grandest works. . . . 

" 1897 also is conspicuous amongst the years of 
Alpine chronology in Canada, by the arrival of 
the first professional Swiss guide to bring to bear 
upon the problems of Canadian peaks the experi- 
ence and skill evolved in his native Alps. . . . 

" The name of Professor J. Norman Collie is 
writ large upon the tablets of Canadian mountain 
exploration : no less than four times has he in com- 
pany with members of the Alpine Club, journeyed 
all the way to Canada from England. . . . 

" Two other names there are which cannot be 
omitted in any resume of mountain history. . . . 
The late Mr. Jean Habel, a veteran alpinist of 
Berlin, to whom is due the opening up of the 
Yoho Valley, was an enthusiast on the subject of 
the opportunities and the delights of the Canadian 
Rockies. . . . Mr. Edward Whymper, another vet- 
eran of world-wide fame, spent six months in 1901 
amongst these summits, and returned to England 
full of enthusiasm and admiration for the immens- 
ity of the alpine area, the grandeur of the peaks, 
and the sublimity of the scenery throughout the 



352 THE TOURIST'S NORTHWEST 

entire region, and they have drawn him yet again 
across the ocean to pay another visit to their 
neighbourhood." 

In September, 1901, Outram, accompanied by 
two Swiss guides, reached the apex of Assiniboine, 
the great Matterhorn which rises highest of all the 
Canadian peaks south of Lake Louise and Banff. 
This notable first ascent was followed in 1902 
and 1903 by first ascents of Columbia, Forbes, 
Lyell, Bryce, Goodsir, Hungabee, Deltaform, 
Freshfield, Howse Peak, and other massifs of the 
north, by Outram, Collie, Stutfield, Fay, Parker, 
et cetera, most of whom climbed the individual 
objects of their enthusiasm with the aid of Swiss 
professionals. All of the above group, excepting 
the last three named, are between 11,000 and 
12,500 feet in altitude. The elevation of Mt. 
Assiniboine is 11,860 feet, of Columbia, 12,500 
feet. 

The ascent of Mt. Robson, which stands many 
miles to the north and excels Columbia by 1200 
feet, was accomplished first by the Reverend 
George Kinney and Donald Phillips in 1909. 
Two members of the Alpine Club of Canada, en- 
camped at Robson Pass in 1913, were guided to 
the top by Conrad Kain, an Austrian mountaineer 
known from the Tyrol to New Zealand. " Plenty 
gamble with your neck on Robson," says Kain. 
And plenty gamble on Whitehorn, Robson's com- 
panion peak, on Resplendent, and on the newly 
christened Mt. Cavell, south of Jasper station, 
which two Americans, Dr. Andrew J. Gilmour and 
Professor E. W. D. Holway, conquered without 
guides in August, 1915. The summit of Mt. 
Geikie, on the Divide, has been attempted, but so 
far without success. 



HOTELS — CUISINE — SPORTS — FESTIVALS 353 

The latest Rocky Mountain peak to invite ex- 
ploration is one " almost rivalling Mt. Robson 
itself," which was sighted by Collie and Mumm 
in 1911 during an expedition north of ftobson, 
and which under the names Mt. Alexander and 
Mt. Kitchi, has within the past two years been 
made better known by Prof. Fay of Boston and 
Miss Jobe of New York, though its ascent is yet 
to be recorded. 

A. O. Wheeler, Howard Palmer, Professor Hol- 
way and other explorers have done pioneer work 
among the Selkirks, where adverse weather condi- 
tions must frequently be combatted in addition 
to the rigours of the climb. In 1912 Mr. Palmer 
and Professor Holway reached the crest of Mt. 
Sir Sandford (11,590 ft.) with two Swiss guides. 
This sovereign of the northern Selkirks had pre- 
viously been attempted by more than a score of 
alpinists. 

Quoting again from Outram's In the Heart of 
the Canadian Rockies, published in 1905 by the 
Macmillan Company, " Hunt as we may amid the 
upland solitudes of Colorado's sea of lofty moun- 
tains, the noble peaks and canyons of the Cali- 
fornian Sierras, or the icy fastnesses of Mt. 
Shasta and the Cascade Range, the more closely 
they are studied, the more intrinsically are they 
found to differ from Switzerland. Each contains 
some of the splendid features that are all combined 
within the scanty limits of the little European 
Republic, but the wondrous glacial fields, the mass- 
ing of majestic ranges, the striking individuality 
of each great peak, the forest areas, green pas- 
ture lands, clear lakes, and peaceful valleys, are 
nowhere found harmoniously blended on the west- 
ern continent until the traveller visits that section 



354 THE TOURIST'S NORTHWEST 

of the Rocky Mountains which lies within the 
wide domain of Canada. 

" Following the Continental watershed from Colo- 
rado northward, the ranges of Montana begin 
to display the characteristic features which cul- 
minate in the Switzerland of the Western Hemi- 
sphere. . . . 

"... Though the highest individual peaks and 
the greatest mean elevation are found south of the 
Canadian border-line, the general character be- 
comes more abrupt and rugged, more alpine in its 
vast areas of glacier and striking grandeur of pin- 
nacle and precipice, till, in the region between the 
50th and 53d parallels, the only real counterpart 
of the Alps is found. The culminating point is 
reached in the centre of this section, where . . . 
the huge Columbia ice-field, containing an area of 
about 200 square miles of solid ice, at a mean ele- 
vation of nearly 10,000 feet above the sea, forms 
the hydrographical centre of a quarter of the 
Continent, and supplies the headwaters of streams 
that flow to three different oceans. . . . 

" The width of the Rocky Mountains proper 
averages about sixty miles, but the whole moun- 
tain system, often designated loosely by the same 
title, stretches from the plateau of the North- 
west Territories to the Pacific Coast. . . . In- 
cluded in this wider system are the Purcell and 
Selkirk Ranges (frequently referred to under the 
latter name alone), the Gold and the Coast 
Ranges, running roughly parallel to the line of 
the Divide. 

" The Selkirks, separated from the Rockies by 
the low-lying valley of the Columbia River, are 
wholly different in structure and considerably 
older. The rainfall is much greater, the vegeta- 



HOTELS — CUISINE — SPORTS — FESTIVALS 355 

tion richer, and their mineral capacity is consid- 
erable." 

" No sport," declares this brilliant cragsman, 
" appeals to all the aspirations of complex man- 
hood in so satisfying a degree as mountaineering, 
besides the great advantage it possesses in hav- 
ing practically no age limit. All the artistic 
instincts are aroused. . . . Hundreds of pictures 
. . . charm the eye of the climber amidst the lofty 
ice-bound peaks, the ruined crags, the glittering 
glaciers, the dense dark forests, flower-strewn 
meadows, sunny lakes and streams and waterfalls, 
that everywhere abound. The scientist finds in 
the structure of the mighty ranges and the fas- 
cinating phenomena of the desolate glaciers a con- 
stant source of interest. The botanist has his 
trees and shrubs and flowers. . . . The athlete, 
pure and simple, finds scope for all his energies 
and love of conquest in the battle against snow 
and ice, precipice and pinnacle, cornice and ava- 
lanche. . . . What the mountaineer delights in is 
bringing skill and science so to bear upon the diffi- 
culties that would be dangers to the less gifted 
or experienced, that their hazards are eliminated. 
. . . Added to all, in Canada there still exists that 
chiefest charm of novelty and adventure, the thrill 
of climbing virgin peaks, of traversing untrod- 
den valleys, of viewing regions never seen before 
by human eyes." 

The Alpine Club, with headquarters in Phila- 
delphia and a membership composed of eminent 
mountaineers from all the world, has a progressive 
namesake in the Alpine Club of Canada. Founded 
in 1906 by Mr. A. O. Wheeler, whose skill as a 
climber and achievements as topographer for the 



356 THE TOURIST'S NORTHWEST 

Dominion have brought him into intimate rela- 
tion with the main Canadian ranges, the Club 
now has upwards of eight hundred members, 
among whom are representatives from nineteen 
states of the Union. Specified objects of the or- 
ganization are " the promotion of scientific study 
and exploration of Canadian alpine and glacial 
regions ; the cultivation of art in relation to moun- 
tain scenery; the encouragement of the mountain 
craft and the opening of new regions as a national 
play ground; the preservation of the natural 
beauties of the mountain places and of the fauna 
and flora in their habitat." The Club by its ef- 
forts has gathered literary material and photo- 
graphs concerning Canada's alpine tracts, which 
are preserved in the library of the Club House 
at Banff and disseminated in publications, and in 
connection with its annual pilgrimages to moun- 
tain regions has organized a corps of reliable 
guides and outfitters. 

Membership is of five grades, Honorary, Active, 
Associate, Graduating and Subscribing. Active 
Members are described in the constitution as 
" those who have made an ascent of a truly alpine, 
glacier-hung peak rising at least two thousand 
five hundred feet above the timber line of its re- 
gion," also eligibles who are " distinguished in lit- 
erature, science or art relating to mountains, in- 
cluding alpine exploration or travel." Active 
members pay an entrance fee of $7.50 and annual 
dues of $5. 

The courtesies of the Club House and its tent 
dormitory, and of the Summer Camp, usually at- 
tended by about a hundred persons, are extended 
to all members and, with certain limitations, to 
wives, husbands and friends of members. 



HOTELS — CUISINE — SPORTS — FESTIVALS 357 

Correspondence addressed to the Secretary, at 
Banff, or to A. O. Wheeler, Director of the Club, 
at Sidney, B. C, will receive attention. 

With parallel railways piercing the main and 
subsidiary ranges, and a horse trail 125 miles in 
length uniting the steel highways, and scores of 
shorter trails ramifying in every direction, few 
mountain regions are inaccessible to the prac- 
tised climber, and many lofty pleasure grounds 
are available to the traveller whose enjoyment 
of mountain peaks is confined to wandering at 
their bases on foot or in the saddle. Transport 
companies and individual outfitters at Morley, 
Banff, Lake Louise, Field, Michel, Fernie, Balfour, 
Glacier, Revelstoke, Jasper Park and Mt. Robson 
Park, are prepared to supply all necessary equip- 
ment, horses, men and provisions for camping 
trips, which may have as their object climbing, 
hunting, fishing, botanising, the painting of fauna 
or collecting of butterflies and birds, or mere 
pleasuring of an idle loll-by-a-stream, stroll-to-a 
glacier, sleep-in-a-tepee sort. Where horses and 
guides are taken, the cost is from $10 to $15 per 
day according to the number in the party, the 
duration of the expedition, and the distance to 
be travelled. The charge for Swiss guides, who 
may be hired at principal mountain hotels, is $5 
a day ; for guides not from Switzerland, $4 a day 
with pony. 

Campers can spend three days on the Lake 
O'Hara trip from Field or Lake Louise; or five 
days on the Jasper— Maligne Lake trip in Jasper 
Park; or ten days going to Assiniboine south of 
Banff, and return; or twenty days on the rail 
to rail trip from Lake Louise to Maligne Lake 



358 THE TOURIST'S NORTHWEST 

and back, over Wilcox Pass. Each resort has 
its organised tours, or independent outings may 
be arranged to cover a day or a summer. 

The Brewster Transport Company catering 
largely to tourists, has printed guides' reports 
which list members of party, names of guides, 
packers and cook, and hoof number of each horse. 
The outfit of provisions and equipment is checked 
— staples, canned fruits and meats, baking pow- 
der (for bread made in Dutch ovens), tepees, 
tents, utensils, slickers, bells, hobbles, hackamores 
(Western for braided halters that govern the 
nostrils of obstreperous horses), lash ropes, grub 
box (the cook's cupboard for the first meal in 
each camp), and alforgas (Spanish for pack- 
bags). If three persons are to be out three days, 
two or three pack horses will be needed. Burros 
are not used in the Canadian Rockies because 
their hoofs are not suited to mud, which must be 
traversed in the meadows. 

Parties camping along a trail leading to some 
objective point, start out in the morning and 
travel five hours, averaging three miles an hour 
on a mountain trail with a pack train. At the 
end of five hours a halt is called for the day. 
The cook catches the " kitchen-horse," ties it to 
a tree near the fire-place, and pretty soon bacon 
and coffee scent the air. If the party has broken 
last night's camp at eight o'clock, luncheon odours 
will arise by one o'clock ; if the members have been 
slothful, or rain has delayed the start, two or 
even three o'clock will arrive before the grub box 
is unlashed and the fire is laid. For one halt a 
day is the inviolable rule. When the horses are 
turned out — bells on leaders and hobbles on those 
that are hard to catch — the thirteen tepee poles 



HOTELS — CUISINE — SPORTS — FESTIVALS 359 

are set, and the two " breeze poles " that control 
the ventilation flaps adjusted to catch whatever 
wind is blowing up or down the valley. On cold 
or damp nights there will be a fire inside the round 
canvas shelter from which the smoke will rise 
through the wing-like flaps, and drift in ghosty 
wreaths to the hills. The guides and camp men 
may sleep on the ground about the big central 
fire outside, feet to the flame, like Indians. But 
being a guest, your bed will likely be of boughs 
spread with a blanket thick and brown, or thick 
and red, and probably your head will emerge 
like a cork from a flask, your limbs being encased 
in a snug sleeping-bag. The smell of flapjacks 
is the greeting fragance of the morning. Toilets 
are hurried to test their crispness. . . . Horses 
are unhobbled, the fire put out, " alfokices " rolled 
and diamond-hitched. A new day on the road is 
begun — a day of guide's tales and cayuse drol- 
leries, of narrow trails and broad petalled alp- 
lands, and glinting tarns, out of which come fish 
for supper, and views of summits, alone or in com- 
bination, to whose beauty you respond by a catch 
in the throat, a thrill in the spine, and tears that 
burn beneath startled lids. 

The British Columbia Mountaineering Club, 
founded at Vancouver in 1907, has as its object 
the exploitation of the imposing peaks north of 
Burrard Inlet, west of the Capilano River, and 
east of the Squamish and Cheakemous Rivers. 
Garibaldi (8700 ft.), and its glacier are conveni- 
ently reached via steamer up Howe Sound and 
trail from Newport. About Jervis, Bute and 
Knight Inlets are groups of peaks varying from 
5000 to 8300 feet in altitude, and removed only 50 



360 THE TOURIST'S NORTHWEST 

miles from the Strait of Georgia. In the imme- 
diate vicinity of Vancouver, the mountaineers be- 
take themselves for outings to Grouse Mountain 
(4200 ft.), Goat Peak (4700 ft.), and Crown 
Mountain (5500 ft.), most interesting of the three. 
The Club House is situated on Grouse Mountain, 
behind Capilano Canyon. 

The Secretary at Vancouver will supply informa- 
tion concerning membership requirements, routes, 
equipment for climbing the coast mountains, and 
general conditions affecting them. Annual dues 
are $2, initiation fee $3. Mt. Baker, Washington, 
is easily accessible from Vancouver via Sumas. 

At Cameron Lake, Vancouver Island, the 
Monks Transport Company may be addressed for 
information concerning the ascent of Mt. Arrow- 
smith, whose summit (5960 ft.) is reached by a 6- 
mile pony trail and a 2-mile foot trail from the 
edge of the lake. The climbing is best in April. 
A two-day trip can be made at an inclusive cost 
of $15 per person. 

Miscellaneous Sports. 

Throughout Canada there is keen interest in 
baseball. Games of the Northwestern League are 
played regularly at Athletic Park, Vancouver, also 
lacrosse matches and soccer and rugby football 
games at the same park. Cricket is especially 
popular on Vancouver Island, polo in southern 
Alberta, among the horsemen of the plains. Curl- 
ing tourneys are played on open rinks at Banff in 
the winter; Medicine Hat, east of Calgary, has a 
$25,000 curling rink. Rinks for skating are 
found in all large towns. Calgary enthusiasts 
play over a golf course 110 acres in extent, Ed- 
monton has beautiful links, likewise Banff. The 




SERACS OF THE ILLECILLEWAET GLACIER, XEAR GLACIER 
STATION', ON THE CAXADIAX PACIFIC RAILWAY 



HOTELS — CUISINE — SPORTS — FESTIVALS 361 

Oak Bay course outside Victoria, on downs over- 
looking the water, is noted among golfists and 
affords all-the-year sport. Qualicum Beach, Van- 
couver, Vernon and other resorts and cities offer 
golfing facilities to the resident and visitor. Ten- 
nis is a sport everywhere in favour. Summer 
tournaments are a feature at Balfour. Ski-jump- 
ing is good on Mt. Revelstoke, also in the Ptarmi- 
gan Valley near Lake Louise, and in the mountains 
behind Vancouver. 

Yachting, motor-boating, rowing and canoeing 
are promoted by the presence of numerous shel- 
tered inlets on the coast, and extensive lakes and 
rivers in the interior. Both Victoria and Van- 
couver have yacht clubs with a large membership. 
The Victoria Hunt Club follows renard on Van- 
couver Island. The Calgary Hunt Club pursues 
the coyote of the prairies with coyote hounds, 
bred for fleetness from the Russian wolfhound and 
the greyhound. 

Festivals. 

The organised celebrations of Western Canada 
principally consist of Indian games and cowboy 
round-ups, which are advertised in the summer 
and fall at Calgary, Banff, Vancouver, and other 
centres. On the King's Birthday and Dominion 
Day there are regattas and Indian canoe races, 
baseball games, shooting tournaments and picnics. 
Alert Bay and other Indian villages of the British 
Columbia coast are occasionally enlivened by Pot- 
latch or Give-away festivals, at which the Indian 
host bestows his worldly goods upon his invited 
amid formal dancing and feasting beneath rows 
of totem poles. 



CHAPTER XIV 

CHRONOLOGY OF THE CANADIAN 
NORTHWEST 



Thzee is a tradition among the Indians of Can- 
ada that when their forefathers were created by 
the Great Spirit they were "placed somewhere 
in the distance, whence thev journeyed toward the 
sun-rising." In general, the natives of the con- 
tinent refer to the West as the original dwelling- 
place of the race on this hemisphere. The belief 
is common among both white and red men that the 
Pacific Coast was the first division of North Amer- 
ica to be populated. Theories as to Oriental ori- 
gin have been briefly cited in the chapter on the 
chronology of Oregon and Washington, which 
share the ethnological history of the Canadian 
Northwest. 
More than two centuries after Yasco de Balboa 
Lad crossed the Isthmus of Panama westward 
from the Caribbean Sea, and Magellan had named 
the "wonderful ocean" Balboa had found, Vitus 
Bering, a Dane in Russian service, made known 
the existence of a strait dividing northeastern 
Asia and northwestern America. By this nar- 
row passage, Russian adventurers crossed the 
North Pacific to Alaska, and a generation after 
B^ring-'s final explorations (1741) had made their 
way down the coast as far as Vancouver Island, 
which had then (1778) begun to attract fur trad- 
from all the = :~ -faring nations. 



CHRONOLOGY 363 

Juan Perez, exploring from Monterey in 1774, 
weighed anchor in the harbour of Nootka, an In- 
dian settlement on the west coast of Vancouver 
Island. A year later, Heceta and Quadra claimed 
Nootka Sound for Spain, with all the coast from 
California to Alaska. 

Captain Cook mentions in Book IV of his 
Voyages the presence of over a hundred Indian 
canoes about his ship when he called at Nootka, 
his North American landfall, in March, 1778. 
For thirty years after its discovery by Perez, this 
island harbour was the most frequented centre of 
trade in northwestern America. 

As successor to Cook, his former chief in Pacific 
explorations, Captain Vancouver was delegated to 
confer with Quadra in 1792 for the adjudication 
of hostilities which had arisen following the seizure 
by the Spaniards of Captain John Meares's ships 
at Nootka. Meares, formerly a lieutenant in the 
Royal Navy, had arrived at Nootka in May, 1788, 
the same year in which Columbia Redivvva, the 
name-giver to river and province, and the Lady 
Washington from Boston wintered in the Sound. 
The British officer subsequently explored and 
traded in the territory over which the Spanish 
claimed exclusive sovereignty. 

War was barely averted between England and 
Spain. That it was averted was due to the diplo- 
macies of Vancouver, and to the presence in North- 
west waters of " one of the noblest fleets Great 
Britain ever saw." The contest over the rights 
of the opposing nations was settled by arbitra- 
tion. England became definitely established on 
the west coast of North America, which in its 
entirety Sir Francis Drake had bestowed upon 
Queen Elisabeth a hundred and ninety-five years 



364, THE TOURIST'S NORTHWEST 

before the voyages of Perez, Heceta and Quadra. 

Vancouver, having previously determined that 
the resort of the beaver-traders was an island, 
and not an extension of the mainland, he sealed 
the pact of peace with Spain's emissary in the 
gracious manner related in the following letter, 
despatched from Nootka in September, 1792. 1 

" Next morning after breakfast we embarked on 
our return." (Quadra and Vancouver had been 
paying a friendly visit to Chief Maquinna at 
Tahsheis.) "The weather was pleasant, but the 
wind though light was contrary. The afternoon 
was cloudy, attended with some rain, thunder and 
lightning: about 5 o'clock we reached Friendly 
Cove, having dined by the way. In the course 
of conversation which passed this afternoon, Sigr. 
Quadra requested that in the course of my farther 
exploring this country I would name some port 
or island after us both, in commemoration of our 
meeting and the friendly intercourse that on that 
occasion had taken place ; which I promised to do ; 
and conceiving no place more eligible than the 
place of our meeting, I have therefore named this 
land (which by our sailing at the back we have 
discovered to be an extensive island), The Island 
of Quadra and Vancouver: which compliment he 
was exceedingly pleased with, as also my retaining 
the name of Port Quadra to that which in May 
last I had called Port Discovery, but finding it 
had been explored and named after this Officer, I 
had since adopted that name." 

Thereafter the Island was mentioned on maps as 

i See page 11, The First Circumnavigation of Vancouver 
Island, by C. F. Newcombe, M.D., a paper contributed to 
the Provincial Archives Department of British Columbia, 
and printed at Victoria. 



CHRONOLOGY 365 

Quadra's Isle, as the Island of Quadra and Van- 
couver, as Vancouver's Island, and finally as Van- 
couver Island. 

One year after Britain became indisputable mis- 
tress of this part of the Northwest coast, Alex- 
ander Mackenzie reached the Pacific following a 
nine months' journey through forests, and across 
the plains and mountains that lay between the 
ocean and Lake Athabasca. Born at Inverness, 
Scotland, supposedly in 1755, Mackenzie as a lad 
was employed by a branch of the Northwest Fur 
Company in Canada. He was sent to Detroit to 
trade, then he explored and traded in the north, 
and then went with Indians and voyageurs in 
canoes by way of Great Slave Lake to Mackenzie 
River for " a long deep plunge into the wilder- 
ness," finally arriving at the Arctic Ocean. He 
returned to Fort Chippewayan on Lake Atha- 
basca in 1789, and from this point started three 
years later west across the Rockies. " Led by 
commercial views, . . . endowed by nature with an 
inquisitive and enterprising spirit . . . and a con- 
stitution and frame of body equal to the most 
arduous undertaking," he was the first European 
to cross the continent. When he arrived on the 
coast north of Vancouver Island he inscribed with 
vermilion mixed with melted grease this legend 
on a rock: 

" Alexander Mackenzie, from Canada by land, the 
twenty -second of July, one thousand seven hun- 
dred and ninety-three." 

As a result of this journey up the Peace River to 
its source, across the Divide in latitude 54° %V 
north, and so to the Pacific, the transcontinental 
path was soon strewn with trading-posts. " The 



366 THE TOURIST'S NORTHWEST 

moving force in that vast region," says a historian 
of Canada, 2 " was the fur-trade. The Hudson 
Bay Company, with its lonely posts at the mouths 
of rivers, on the shores of the great sea from 
which it took its name, was forced by its active 
Montreal rival, the Northwest Company, to push 
its power all over the interior. Northward to the 
Arctic Circle, westward to the Rockies, and at last 
to the very Pacific, spread the stockaded posts 
of the rival companies, sometimes rising almost 
side by side, but always with fierce jealousies that 
too often broke out in bloodshed. The employes 
of the Hudson Bay Company were chiefly men 
from the Orkney Islands, those of the Northwest 
Company French Canadians. These hardy ad- 
venturers took themselves wives from among the 
tribes of the land ; and there sprang up in time a 
race of half-breeds, almost as wild as their savage 
mothers, but capable in affairs, and susceptible to 
education. They came to be a mighty factor in 
the making of the Northwest." 

In 1610 Henry Hudson, seeking the Pole, found 
Hudson's Bay. Fifty years later, Pierre Radis- 
son and Medard de Groseillers, " the most re- 
nowned and far-travelled wood-runners that New 
France had yet produced," reached the same sea 
by canoe-ways from the south. The treasure of 
600,000 beaver-skins they brought back, and the 
tales they related at Oxford to Charles II of 
England influenced the granting of a charter in 
1670 for a company of noblemen headed by Prince 
Rupert, son of the King of Bohemia and grandson 
of James I, to trade " in all waters lying within 
Hudson Strait, and in all lands drained by streams 

2 Charles G. D. Roberts in A History of Canada. 



CHRONOLOGY 367 

flowing into those waters not already possessed 
by other British subjects, or subjects of any other 
Christian Prince, all the minerals, and all the fish." 
The payment for sole trading rights in a terri- 
tory more than half as large as Europe was to 
be two elks and two black beavers " when the King, 
his heirs and successors entered the country 
granted." Prince Rupert was Governor of the 
Hudson's Bay Company for twelve years, and the 
country of unknown area over which he had dic- 
tatorship was called Rupert's Land. 

For a hundred years the Hudson's Bay Com- 
pany were lords of the west — they made laws, 
established courts, built forts — and none dis- 
puted their dominion until late in the eighteenth 
century the Nor'westers of Montreal " overran 
the sacred territory of the Hudson's Bay Com- 
pany as though royal charters were a joke and 
trading monopolies as extinct as the dodo." 
Miss Laut in inimitable style relates the thirty 
years' exploration which coincided with the " Com- 
ing of the Pedlars," — the invasion of the Sas- 
katchewan country through which the river flowed 
" for twelve hundred miles . . . freighted with the 
argosies of a thousand canoes," and of the un- 
charted tract " from Lake Superior to the Pacific, 
from the Missouri to the Arctic." 

Forts were set up on the sites of Calgary, Ed- 
monton and Banff, and trade and immigration 
increased in the years that immediately followed 
Mackenzie's journey to the Pacific. Fraser and 
Thompson in 1805-1808 explored the mysteries of 
forest and raging river across the Rockies — ■ 
Thompson as far as the sea by way of East and 
West Kootenay and the Columbia River, Fraser 



368 THE TOURIST'S NORTHWEST 

within twelve miles of the sea by the river he 
thought the Columbia, but which we know by his 
name. 

Lord Selkirk's colonists came to the Red River 
country in 1812. The region of which Winnipeg 
is now the capital became populated with Scotch 
and Irish immigrants. In 1821 the Hudson's Bay 
Company and the Nor'westers ended their bloody 
disagreements, united under one head, and exerted 
their forces to extend their power beyond the 
mountains and discourage Pacific Coast immigra- 
tion. Under the governorship of Sir George 
Simpson, with McLoughlin as the administrator, 
posts in the Oregon country and in the vast ter- 
ritory to the north, broadly called New Caledonia, 
became centres of prosperous exchange, — beads 
and blankets for skins worth their weight in silver. 
The trappers going north set out from Fort Van- 
couver, 3 seat of control west of the Rockies. 
" Sixty or seventy voyageurs manned the large 
canoes that stemmed the floodtide of the Colum- 
bia, the pilot's canoe flying an H. B. C. flag from 
its prow, the steersman of each boat striking up 
the tune of a voyageurs' song, the crew joining 
in full-throated chorus, keeping time with the rap 
of their paddles, and perhaps some Highlander 
droning his bagpipes as the canoes wound up the 
rocky canons of the great river." 

At Okanagan, horses substituted canoes. On 
toiled the brigades to Kamloops and its palisaded 
post, and from Kamloops up a trail to the Fraser 
River, thence in canoes to Fort George, Fort St. 
James, Fraser Fort in the Nechaco Valley and 
Babine. 

3 See Chapter III, and under "Vancouver," Chapter IX. 



CHRONOLOGY 360 

In 1827-1833 forts were placed at the mouth of 
the Fraser River, and on Puget Sound. Nis- 
qually House was the Hudson's Bay stronghold 
mid-way between the Columbia and the Fraser. 
Other posts rose on Vancouver Island and about 
the mouth of the Skeena River. The Company 
coveted trade in Russian America and made a one- 
sided contract with Baron Wrangell at Stikine. 

Since the War of 1812 and the evacuation of all 
trading-posts by Astor's representatives in the 
Pacific fur trade, the British and Canadians had 
controlled the Oregon Country and New Caledonia 
as well. The arrival of several thousand Amer- 
ican colonists in the Williamette Valley early in 
the forties was regarded as a menace to Hudson's 
Bay Company domination, and Dr. McLoughlin, 
Chief Factor at Fort Vancouver, later came under 
suspicion of disloyalty for his benevolence to the 
incoming farmers, whose presence London so much 
deplored. 

In 1841, Sir George Simpson, "in the course of 
the first overland journey round the world from 
east to west," crossed the Rockies by approxi- 
mately the same route as the Canadian Pacific 
rails now follow. A year later he built a fort on 
Vancouver Island where Victoria now stands. 

The year 1846 witnessed the determination of the 
49th parallel as the division line between Ameri- 
can and British possessions. The dual occupancy 
of the Oregon Country, in force for a quarter- 
century, came to an end. 

The fur-traders perforce withdrew their base of 
operations from the Columbia River and Puget 
Sound to the Valley of the Fraser and Vancouver 
Island. In 1849, the Hudson's Bay Company 



370 THE TOURIST'S NORTHWEST 

undertook the colonisation of Vancouver Island 
and appointed as its Governor Chief Factor 
Douglas. 

A post for trade was established in 1855 at Mas- 
sett, on Queen Charlotte Islands, an archipelago 
discovered by early navigators and named in 1787 
by Captain Dixon for the spouse of King George 
III. 

An era of gold discovery was inaugurated in 
1856 on Queen Charlotte Islands, about Lillooet, 
and most spectacularly in the Cariboo District, 
north of Kamloops, along the Eraser and Thomp- 
son Rivers. Under the auspices of the British 
Government the Rockies were explored for new 
passes by an expedition led by Captain Palliser. 
In all, five routes were investigated, and wagon 
trails were laid out, over which immigrants passed 
to the new West. 

In 1865, Viscount Milton and W. B. Cheadle fol- 
lowed the Jasper trail, used by the Hudson's Bay 
Company to carry buffalo meat to the Cariboo 
miners, and looking on Mt. Robson named it " a 
giant of giants, . . . immeasurably supreme." 

New Caledonia comprised all the territory west 
of the Rocky Mountains and north of the 49th 
parallel as far as the southern limits of Alaska 
and Yukon territory. Together with the pre- 
viously independent colony of Vancouver, it was 
proclaimed in 1866 the Crown Colony of British 
Columbia, with Victoria as capital. Five years 
later British Columbia joined the Federation of 
Canadian provinces. 

In 1863, the Hudson's Bay Company sold out 
its rights and properties, and a new stock com- 
pany was formed under the same name. Six years 
more elapsed and the original charter was relin- 



CHRONOLOGY 371 

quished to the Dominion in return for £300,000, 
one-twentieth of the arable land in its territory, 
and the land on which its forts were built. " How 
valuable one-twentieth of the arable land was to 
prove," comments Miss Laut, " the Company it- 
self did not realise till recent days, and what 
wealth it gained from the cession of land where its 
forts stood, may be guessed from the fact that at 
Fort Garry (Winnipeg) this land comprised five 
hundred acres of what are now city lots at metro- 
politan values." 

The year 1873 is memorable in Canadian annals 
as the date of organisation of the Royal North- 
West Mounted Police, a remarkable body of men 
whose primary mission was the control of hostile 
Indians. This office was later extended to the 
pursuit of criminals in Saskatchewan, Alberta, 
Yukon Territory and the Northwest Territories, 
and the policing of outlying districts, Government 
Parks, mining camps, et cetera. The force now 
numbers about 1300 officers and men. Applicants 
for membership must have a sound constitution, 
be able to ride, be active and able-bodied, of good 
character, aged between eighteen and forty years, 
and able to read or write either English or French. 

The North-West Mounted Police and the 
Guardia Civile of Spain are the most picturesque 
and efficient constabulary of the New and the Old 
World. 

Alberta, formerly part of the Northwest Terri- 
tories, was created a new sub-division in 1882, and 
named for H. R. H. Princess Louise Alberta, who 
'visited the country with her husband, the Marquis 
of Lome, in 1883. In 1905 it assumed the dig- 
nity of a province, and Edmonton was made the 
seat of government. 



THE TOURIST'S NORTHWEST 

The history of the Canadian Northwest since 
1S85 is the history of railway construction and 

i&ation, of mines, fisheries and trade inert 
and the history of towns and cities magically up- 
sprung. Each year new tracts are opened to the 
settler, new riches of soil and mineral discovered, 
new opportunities developed for traffic on the 
ocean, new rails laid through fertile valleys and 
mountain passes that, once tracked by Indian 
and trapper, are now traversed by travellers who 
come by the million to enjoy Western Car. 
greatest heritage — splendour of landscape and 
sea. 



' HAPTEB XV 

:ovvz?. — c;ast v:;;v:«:;ys 

VANCOUVER tSLAl 



7 is :ne of three Northwest! 
born in a wilderness within 150 miles of each c 
less than four decades ago, that are possessed 
now of a population exceeding a hundred thou- 
sand. The chief city of the upper coast, like 
Seattle and Tacoma, has one view on for:* :>. 
:v:.::;:.i:r> .-.r.. : . ::. rr. v.: ^ v.-.ll:ys. :-."i ..:.::> ;r ;r 
the sea. As on Puget Sound, splendid heights 
are visible which grow in ma; with 

salt-' aits and inlets flowing At their 

Ay::-;" iiuc ::v v. :'/.; - ;>:. r.-.^^^i cut/ir.;? :;v ". 
in the mist or stand abrv. 
:;-.: S:r.iit ;:' Gjor^i.i. 

it? not: ::' ^v /."/.: ::r .::;;>>:: £ :? ;:' :" ; 

I.o-v;r F - V::;: ' .i :\c? — t; : 

0.>;.-.. : .: K. : ."c>". i-".:^ "\i/.- *::-..- :::":*-'? :: :'~: 

sea enter deeply, 

:v.ot::-.t.-.i:>j':.-.vi:— river, b:.-.//:? ;:::"■::•; .-.: it? 

door and washc. 

e":r? i:::":vcr.-.V".: cv.t'.yir.^ excursions. 

A? ■ city, the busi i] of Br 

k::v.Vi "->--- \ . 

are large and nev> 

•• r.-.- ■■;•: ■• -;-■■■-■• •-. . - •;• 
and Note 4, Chapter XII. 



374, THE TOURIST'S NORTHWEST 

green and numerous ; there are residential sec- 
tions stiffly pretentious and rich in big houses, 
and others that have a greater appeal because 
less desirous of being acclaimed the nobbiest quar- 
ter. But these qualities all lately built North 
American cities share. Vancouver has no history 
not concerned with its commerce. It rose in a 
clearing on Burrard Inlet thirty years ago, was 
burned, and rose again. Miles of stumpage were 
plotted on the main peninsula and across the 
Inlet. Miles are still plotted, and no more. 
There are fields in distant environs that bear no 
crop but thickly sown little stakes which mark 
land agents' hopes for the city's future, and 
clients' credulity. But climbing from the harbour 
the city proper comprises substantial rows of the 
sorts of buildings that go to the making of a 
metropolis, among them some very sightly exam- 
ples of architecture on Hastings and Granville 
Streets, and at least one structure which would 
be notable in New York or London — the Van- 
couver Hotel. With late additions, it is composed 
of a soaring unit from which at either corner of 
the face two square, carved, flat-roofed towers of 
varied height descend, one below the other, leaving 
an airy space between the upper floors of the 
tiered wings, and forming many sunny corner 
rooms that would otherwise be ranged across a 
flat wall. 

The hotel is at the junction of Granville and 
Georgia Streets adjacent to the classic Court 
House and surrounded by other hotels, by many 
enticing shops and attractive theatres, by banks, 
railway offices and travel agencies. The Can- 
adian Pacific docks and station are at the foot of 
the Granville Street hill, below Hastings Street, 



VANCOUVER CITY AND ISLAND 375 

which is a prominent commercial thoroughfare 
running parallel with the Inlet. The Grand 
Trunk Pacific docks are a few blocks further east. 
At neighbouring piers are ships for Japan and 
Hawaii, for Alaska, and ports down the coast. 
Also stocky craft that run across the Strait and 
up long fjords and highland rivers toward the 
Cascades, and swift ferries that unite the city 
with its northern suburb. 

The traveller who has but a day or so to spend 
in Vancouver can most quickly acquaint himself 
with its predominant features by engaging a seat 
in one of the electric omnibuses which leave hotels 
and tourist bureaux several times daily, and give 
miles of pleasure for a dollar or two each trip. 
The Organised Service of the Terminal City Motor 
Company picks up passengers at the Hotel Van- 
couver, Glencoe Lodge and other tourist houses 
for runs to Stanley Park, English Bay, the much- 
vaunted Shaughnessy Heights, et cetera, and pro- 
vides tally-hos and automobiles for independent 
trips to Capilano Canyon, out to the sea point 
of the peninsula by the Marine Drive, and to 
Fraser River towns. Red cars and green cars 
offer similar excursions at a fixed rate. The Brit- 
ish Columbia Electric observation cars give for 
a very small fee a round-trip about the city, but 
do not enter Stanley Park. Park automobiles 
make the tour at regular intervals. 

The trees of British Columbia attain greater 
luxuriance the nearer they grow to the ocean. In 
Stanley Park one sees them as they have stood 
these many centuries, immensely straight and ta- 
pering, deeply green, superbly tall — kingly trees, 
impossible of comprehension even when one has 
looked on them by the forestful. The mystery of 



376 THE TOURIST'S NORTHWEST 

their size rather increases with familiarity. At 
first view one's sense of measurement is incapable 
of adjustment. If we could set within a woodland 
like Stanley Park an Eastern forest, these Pacific 
giants would soar above the trees of the Atlantic 
Slope as they in turn dominate saplings and un- 
derbrush. Vancouver's pride in the Park, which 
occupies a thousand-acre tip of land projected 
into the harbour, extends to its perfect roadways, 
its gardens, lakes, picnic grounds and animal pad- 
docks. The motor pauses for glimpses of Bur- 
rard Inlet and the mountains that stand behind. 

Within a dim bower at a curve in the road is the 
mortuary urn of Pauline Johnson, the Canadian 
poet of royal Indian blood, whose verses and rare 
personality won wide recognition before her un- 
timely death a few years back. She knew and 
loved this wood, and wished her ashes to rest in 
its midst. 

Driving southwest from the Park, a beautiful 
road leads on past the British-looking " first 
beach," and the bathing resort and residences in 
the Kitsilano quarter to the Gulf of Georgia, over- 
looking which is the lately opened Provincial Uni- 
versity, and inland again along the upper outlet 
of the Praser River to the city via Shaughnessy 
Heights. This twenty-mile tour, which may be 
made in a public car for a dollar, gives distant 
views of the Olympic Mountains, of the ridge-pole 
of Vancouver Island, of the Gulf and its traffic, 
of the Cascades and the bays between, and pene- 
trates shady hill-roads to excellent vantage- 
points, from which an even greater extent of the 
city's surroundings can be seen. 

Continuing to New Westminster and Steveston 
t>y highway (electric cars or motors make the trip 



VANCOUVER CITY AND ISLAND 377 

to the former town by any one of three routes in 
less than an hour), the visitor gains successive 
pictures of prospering farms enriched by the silt 
of the Fraser River, of fish-laden scows and hurry- 
ing smacks, of canneries and the shacks of In- 
dians and Orientals, of mills on the river-bank 
that disgorge new-smelling boards and shingles. 

New Westminster, then a mining town, was made 
the headquarters of the British Columbia Gov- 
ernment in 1858 when " for convenience in con- 
trolling the lawless clement which had taken pos-, 
session of the mainland," Vancouver Island had 
been created a separate Crown Colony. Ten 
years later the two colonies were reunited, 
and Victoria became the capital of British 
Columbia. Like many another community, New 
Westminster, which has the only fresh-water har- 
bour in Western Canada, dates its period of 
greatest prosperity from a year in which it was 
devastated by fire. The well-built little city is 1% 
miles from the mouth of the river. 

Motor omnibuses and electric trains proceed from 
New Westminster back to Eburne, and cross a 
bridge to Lulu Island, where commercial interests 
are divided between farming and fishing. Steves- 
ton, on the main outlet of the mighty Fraser, is 
given over to salmon canning, and rivals Belling- 
ham, Washington, in this enterprise. The chief 
hotel in this little world of fish is named the 
Sockeye. On every hand one is confronted by 
squirmy heaps of salmon and groups of rubber- 
booted men pronging the freshly gathered harvest 
from boat to warehouse. The spring, the cohoe, 
dog and hump-back varieties are inferior to the 
sockeye in quality and numbers. The run of the 
latter is heaviest every fourth year. The entire 



3T8 THE TOURIST'S NORTHWEST 

annual British Columbia pack of salmon averages 
50,000,000 pounds. Of this amount the bulk is 
canned on the Fraser and Skeena Rivers. 

Seventy-six miles of electric railway span the dis- 
tance between Vancouver and Chilliwack, up the 
fertile Eraser Valley. From New Westminster, 
daily steamers are available for the trip which 
has abundant reward in intimate views of the 
stately stream first discovered about a century 
ago, of peaks green and white that over-top it, 
of meadows fat with grain and cattle. Three 
trains from the British Columbia Electric station 
make the run to Chilliwack and back to Vancou- 
ver every day. Fare, $2.80. 

Best of all the short road excursions from Van- 
couver, and one which can be made at small ex- 
pense of hours and dollars is the visit to Capilano 
Canyon. Three parallel streams traverse the un- 
tamed highlands between the North Arm of Bur- 
rard Inlet and Howe Sound: Seymour, Lynn and 
Capilano. To Seymour Canyon, which is princi- 
pally the resort of fishermen, there is a Govern- 
ment motor-road from North Vancouver. To 
Lynn Canyon and Falls one may go across the 
Inlet by ferry to North Vancouver and from there 
by electric car direct. Capilano Canyon is most 
conveniently reached by motor-car all the way 
from Vancouver, but ferry and electric road, and 
motor-car from the terminus of the line, may be 
employed by those more economically inclined. 
The return trip fare by the latter route is 75 cents 
to the upper, or " second," gorge ; by automobile 
from Vancouver to the same point and back, $2. 
Distance about 12 miles one way. 

The road to Capilano is without especial interest 
until the car reaches the gate to the lower gorge. 




EN SINCLAIR CAM \ V rHE NEW HIGHWAY FROM 
rHI COLUMBIA RIVER VALLEY, TO BANFF. ACROSS 
THE ROCKIES 



VANCOUVER CITY AND ISLAND 3T9 

A nominal fee is charged for admission to a flow- 
ery vestibule which faces a rustic tea-house and 
leads to a famous hanging bridge across the ex- 
traordinary bed of the river. 

The gorge of the glacial stream is narrow, but 
above all it is steep, and faced on either side with 
a wonderful wall of trees. Swung between the 
banks is an unsupported loop of planks and cables 
450 feet long and 200 feet above the water, which 
is anchored at either end to stumps buried deep 
in the ground. An inventive Frenchman con-' 
structed the bridge. The entrance charged to 
the garden serves as toll for those who entrust 
themselves to the sloping, buckling, swaying path 
that carries across stream to a cool, high forest. 
One begins to descend the loop with confidence, but 
even an ordinary pace sets the suspended walk to 
swinging with a combination of sidewise, rotary 
and up-and-down motions which prove so discon- 
certing that the centre of the bridge is seemingly 
a long way off when one is glad to grasp the cable 
rail and pause — hoping the while that others 
will keep off until the exciting journey is finished, 
for each person's weight adds momentum to this 
careening fabric spun of steel and wood above a 
whirling gorge. The sober walk of two or three 
pairs of feet has produced an effect sufficiently 
taxing for average nerves. . . . With stealthy 
and unwilling glimpses at the surge below — very 
much below — one arrives at the bottom of the 
loop and begins to crawl up the far slope, con- 
trolling each movement in an effort to moderate 
the oscillations of this airy foot-path. The re- 
turn is even more discomposing, for frivolous fe- 
males disregarding a printed warning, run down 
the first hundred feet from the garden end, then, 



380 THE TOURIST'S NORTHWEST 

startled at the cavorting and sidling they have 
rashly brought about, clutch each other and the 
handrails and cry for help. Everybody stills his 
foot. The limber contortions cease when no one 
walks. So, one at a time, the passengers make 
their way with eyes concentrated on the boards 
beneath their feet. And at last the journey ends. 
Orange pekoe, fresh scones and apricots console 
one on the verandah of the tea-house. Here there 
is an excellent view of the Canyon, and of the re- 
curring comedies of the Frenchman's bridge. But 
one cannot say he has fully seen the gorge of 
the Capilano until he goes on another mile or so 
to the Canyon View Hotel, and there leaves the 
car, descends a sylvan trail that circles tree trunks 
and boulders, and comes to a natural outlook upon 
the 100-foot channel of the river. Coolness is 
the reigning sensation here. The sun has but a 
narrow gap to shine through. Black forests and 
grey rocks, cramped, cool-running water, air that 
blows off white summits not many miles up-river 
moderate the temperature. Sound is another sen- 
sation : ripples clinking over stones, currents swish- 
ing around recumbent logs, debris crashing from 
the banks, voices echoing from wall to wall, all 
chime with the heavy over-tone of water falling, 
leaping, coursing among resounding crags. A 
wooden flume makes a footway a little above the 
churning river. Walking it gives one the sensa- 
tion of crawling like a fly on the face of the cliff. 
One can follow the scantling all the way back to 
first canyon and get an awesome impression by 
looking up to our bridge instead of down. Or 
one can write finis to the expedition by continuing 
from the Canyon View Hotel to the foot of Grouse 
Mountain, and climbing it by trail. 



VANCOUVER CITY AND ISLAND 381 

Trains run every hour over a section of the new 
Pacific Great Eastern Railway, 1% miles north 
from North Vancouver to Whytecliff, near the 
mouth of Howe Sound on a delectable little bay, 
among whose surrounding woods are camps and 
summer homes. Howe Sound is the Hood Canal 
of this part of the coast. Excursions by steamer 
(return fare $1) are scheduled daily by the Ter- 
minal Steam Navigation Company as far as 
Squamish, on the line of the Pacific Great Eastern 
Railway, projected from North Vancouver to 
Prince George and bej^ond. The Union Steam- 
ship Company- has bi-weekly sailings to islands and 
resorts on Howe Sound. On the whole Atlantic 
coast of Canada or the United States there is 
no water trip in any way to be compared with 
this which proceeds from the sea shore and greets 
at close hand snow- and ice-capped mountains. 
Yet it is but one of several such journeys within 
a short distance from Vancouver. 

At Squamish Dock, after a three-hour sail by 
Terminal Navigation Company morning steamer, 
a train awaits which carries one 120 miles to Lil- 
looet among scenes that breathe of the primitive 
in all things — canyons, cataracts, mines, game, 
lakes brimming with fish — lakes " where one 
catches more fish in a day than one cares to carry 
back to town." Lillooet is known for the amount 
of gold it ships from neighbouring mines, for its 
sunny climate and for its rich farming possibili- 
ties. Quartz, placer and hydraulic methods are 
all capable of operation in this district. The Pa- 
cific Great Eastern Railway will eventually tra- 
verse the Cariboo country far north of Lillooet. 
In this region gold has been mined without cessa- 
tion for sixty 3'ears, the total value of the yield be- 



382 THE TOURIST'S NORTHWEST 

ing about $50,000,000. This is a land of great 
expectations since the railway survey was made 
which will give the Grand Trunk Pacific an en- 
trance into Vancouver via Prince George, Quesnel, 
Soda Creek, Lillooet and Squamish. The names 
are redolent of mining romance which still clings 
about the road-houses and camps on the famous 
highway to the north, the Cariboo trail* 

A week of short water journeys will not exhaust 
those possible of enjoyment within a day or two 
of Vancouver. Steamers leave daily for a tour 
of Burrard Inlet and the North Arm to its head, 
where at the outlet of the Indian River the Wig- 
wam Inn offers hospitality amid characteristically 
imposing scenery. 

By the Union Steamship Company there are com- 
fortable though not luxurious facilities for visiting 
Jervis Inlet and Bute Inlet settlements, Powell 
River, Campbell River (V. I.), Alert Bay, Bella 
Coola and Ocean Falls, the last two ports being 
well up the coast toward Prince Rupert. The 
same general route to the north is covered more 
expeditiously, but with no detours, by Canadian 
Pacific and Grand Trunk Pacific steamers, as out- 
lined under " Railways and Steamers in the Cana- 
dian Northwest " and under " Tours," Chapter 
Twelve. 

Jervis Inlet, 60 miles above Vancouver, is a fa- 
vourite cruise of power-boats sailing from North- 
western ports. An excursion in such waters, in- 
spiring enough from a steamer deck, is trebly so 
when there is leisure to search coves and con- 
tributing arms where undreamed-of pictures await 
discovery. A voyage made in 1915 is thus de- 
scribed by a member of an amateur crew : 2 

2 The author is indebted to Dr. O. W. Daly of Kingston, 



VANCOUVER CITY AND ISLAND 383 

" We threaded our way among wooded islands 
to the entrance to Jervis Inlet — a waterway 
about two miles wide which runs in a zigzag course 
for over fifty miles eastward, flanked by tree-clad 
mountains with here and there a bold granite mass 
sharply piercing through glaciers and snowfields 
thousands of feet above us. The whole coast from 
Seattle to Skagway presents the transverse por- 
tion of a partially submerged range, and this ac- 
counts for the numerous islands, many rambling 
inlets and profound and gloomy fjords which enter 
into the very heart of the ' sea of mountains.' 

" When nearing the head of Jervis Inlet we 
turned sharply to the right, and dodging behind 
a guarding island dashed with the rapids of the 
inflowing tide between the interlacing folds of the 
mountains into the Princess Louise Inlet. This 
windless water is about a mile wide and six miles 
long, with its apex turning slightly to the east, 
so that its beauties are hidden from first view. Its 
walls rise abruptly from the water to the ever- 
present glaciers and snows over eight thousand 
feet above, and are bedecked by numerous cas- 
cades of great beauty. 

" About the shores of one or two islands and an 
occasional moraine dwell a few hardy frontiers- 
men in their axe-hewn shacks in the depths of 
this greater Yosemite, while from its waters and 
precipices they gather their precarious livelihood. 
Being unable to possess himself of land, one young 
stalwart thought to conserve his limited capital 
by making a raft of cedars and anchoring it to 

Ontario, for this admirable " log," and to Mr. H. A. Dod- 
son of Bellingham, Washington, for the photograph taken 
in Princess Louise Inlet which is included among the 
illustrations of this volume. 



384 THE TOURIST'S NORTHWEST 

the shore in this paradise valley. Equipped only 
with an axe, a saw and a hammer, he split boards 
from cedar logs and in two weeks built a home for 
his equally sturdy bride on the raft. In four 
days more he made a 16-foot dug-out, and his 
house furniture. Their needs are few which can- 
not be supplied with a little exertion. The cliffs 
about abound with deer, bear, goat and sheep, and 
the waters furnish the best of salmon, herring and 
clams. For vegetables they go with the dug-out 
to various little shore gardens, while staples come 
from a supply house some miles down the main 
inlet. With no taxes or rents to worry over, 
no trains to catch, or polluted air to breathe — 
there Sam and Mary put in their happy days ' far 
from the madding crowd's ignoble strife.' Their 
home turning with the tide or resting on the slop- 
ing shore lends charm and variety, while within 
are abundance of fuel and the comfort of animal 
rugs." 

Beyond the broken shore pierced by Jervis and 
Bute Inlets, and the upper end of the Strait of 
Georgia (called also the Gulf of Georgia), the 
channel between the mainland and Vancouver Is- 
land becomes so narrow that navigators must look 
well to tides and steering-gear. Where the Island 
draws away, Queen Charlotte Sound is formed. 
On a dot of an island is Alert Bay, near the en- 
trance. While the steamer is discharging cargo, 
passengers saunter the single totem-lined street 
and exercise ingenuity in attempting to bring rea- 
son out of the chaotic postures of Indian symbols. 
A totem is a " crest column." The word is de- 
rived from an Algonquin root meaning " clay," 






VANCOUVER CITY AND ISLAND 385 

because the Algonquins used clay to paint face and 
body with emblems significant of a tribe or group, 
eventually called a totem. The essential element 
of totemism is " the concept of a ghostly helper 
or tutelary spirit." According to Charles Hill 
— Tout of the Canadian Ethnological Survey, to 
adopt or receive the name of an animal is to be 
endowed with its spirit, to be under its protection, 
and allied with it. Personal totems are acquired 
by dream or vision, or by direct contact with 
the object when hunting. The totem poles of 
Pacific Coast Indians are much more elaborate 
than those of interior tribes. They reflect legends 
more or less poetical, and incidents in the lives of 
those who raise them more or less true, though 
usually beyond the comprehension of white men. 
The figures carved on a tree trunk and set before 
the doors of Alert Bay, Bella Bella, Skidegate, 
Massett, or settlements on the Skeena River, sig- 
nify brave deeds of the owner, or odd happenings 
explainable in vague legendary form. The clan 
is represented by raven, crow, wolf, bear, or other 
native creature. Interwoven in the rude painted 
carvings are salmon and thunder-bird, grizzly, 
killer-whale, mountain hawk, deep-sea frog, devil- 
fish and beaver, symbols of the sun and moon, and 
of preternatural exploits. 

The Haida nation are the best totem pole carvers 
in both wood and slate. What remains of their 
handiwork in native environment is best seen on 
Graham Island, the most important and the far- 
thest north of the Queen Charlotte group. Con- 
nection is by steamer from Prince Rupert on bi- 
monthly schedule of the Union Steamship Com- 
pany. No boat runs direct to the archipelago 



386 THE TOURIST'S NORTHWEST 

from Vancouver. Description of the islands will 
be found following " Prince Rupert," Chapter 
XVIII. 

Beyond Alert Bay and old Fort Rupert, when 
Queen Charlotte Sound has been crossed, the 
steamer course holds among islands all the way 
to Prince Rupert. Villages of the Salishan, Bella 
Coola, Kwakiutl and Tsimshian Indians dot the 
coast, which is riven with fjords and surmounted 
by pine-covered cliffs and heights of striking 
beauty. 

Vancouver - Prince Rupert, 550 miles in 1% days 
by Grand Trunk Pacific steamers, three times a week. 
Canadian Pacific steamers call at Prince Rupert twice 
a week on the Northern British Columbia Coast Route 
and the Alaska Route. One steamer of the Union Steam- 
ship Company sails from Vancouver for Prince Rupert 
every fortnight, and a smaller one every week. 

Vancouver - Vancouver Island: By Canadian Pacific 
steamers to Victoria, 83 m., 5-7 hrs., fare* $2.50; to 
Nanaimo twice daily, except Sunday, 40 miles in 2 
hours; to Comox via Powell River weekly; to West 
Coast of Vancouver Island, thrice a month. 

To Victoria by Grand Trunk Pacific steamers, three 
times a week in the evening, 4% hours, en route, Prince 
Rupert — Vancouver — Victoria — Seattle. 

Vancouver - Seattle, 160 miles via Victoria. In 9-11 
hours by C. P. R. steamers night and morning. Night 
steamer makes no stop at Victoria. Tri-weekly in the 
evening by G. T. P. steamers in 12 hours, calling iy 2 hours 
at Victoria. 

By Canadian Pacific Railway or Soo-Pacific Express, 
via Mission Junction and Northern Pacific from Sumas, 
177 miles in about 8 hours. By Great Northern Railway, 
156 miles in 5% hours. 

Vancouver — Mission (42 m.) — Agassiz (71 m.) — 
Hope (89 m.) — North Bend (129 m.) — Spence's 
Bridge (178 m.) — Kamloops (251 m.) — Sicamous (335 
m.) — Revelstoke (385 m.) — Glacier (423 m.) — Golden 
(475 m.) — Field (510 m.) — The Great Divide (525 m.) 
— Lake Louise (530 m.) — Banff (565 m.) — Calgary 



VANCOUVER CITY AND ISLAND 387 

(647 m.), by Canadian Pacific Railway, twice daily. By 
Soo-Pacific, once daily. 

Time, Vancouver — Sicamous, 14 hours ; to Glacier, 19 
hours; to Field, 23 hours; to Banff, 27 hours; to Calgary, 
30 hours. 

Vancouver - Calgary (647 m.) — Winnipeg (1484 m., 
2y 2 days) — Toronto - Montreal, 2895 miles in 4% days, 
by Canadian Pacific. 

Vancouver - Dunmore (834 m.) — St. Paul, 1814 miles 
in 3 days, by Soo-Pacific daily. By way of Revelstoke, 
Arrow Lakes, Kootenay Lakes and Crow's Nest Pass, add 
2 days or more, according to connections, and 185 miles. 

Vancouver - Kamloops (254 m.) — Mt. Robson (478 m.) 
— Jasper - Edmonton (773 m.) — Winnipeg (1600 m.) — 
Toronto, 2909 miles by Canadian Northern Railway, in 
5% days, three times a week. 

Vancouver - Prince Rupert (by Grand Trunk Pacific 
steamer, 550 m.) — Hazelton (726 m.) — Prince George 
-Mt. Robson (1217 m.) — Jasper (1269 m.) — Edmonton 
(1503 m.) — Winnipeg (2296 m.) —Toronto, 3552 miles 
by National Transcontinental Line (G. T. P., Canadian 
Government and Grand Trunk Railway), three times a 
week. Time, seven days. 



Vancouver Island. 

If the day be fine and no malaise disturbs the 
journey through the sometimes restless gulf, the 
crossing to Western Canada's major isle will prove 
an agreeable excursion, with mountains of two 
countries beckoning from beyond the blue water, 
and the range on the mainland bidding farewell. 
Some 300 miles long and on an average 60 miles 
wide, the body of land whose identity as an island 
was fixed by Captain George Vancouver in 1792, 
is composed of several distinguished elevations, of 
high cliffs, lakes, low-lying valleys and deeply in- 
dented beaches. Barkley Sound and Alberni 
Canal cut the island nearly in two from the ocean 



388 THE TOURIST'S NORTHWEST, 

side. Clayoquot Sound and Nootka Sound form 
other broad harbours up the west coast. 

Directly opposite Vancouver on the east coast is 
Nanaimo, port of an extensive coal area. The 
passage to Victoria, at the lower end of the is- 
land, follows the international boundary north- 
west of the San Juan Archipelago. For the lat- 
ter half of the distance the channel is beautified 
by many long fragments of rock and forest known 
as the Gulf Islands, whose little farm and fishing 
settlements have a steamer service of their own 
from both Victoria and Vancouver. Victoria, the 
provincial capital by reason of age and historical 
precedent, is secluded within a well-sheltered bay 
with southern exposure, and is singularly free from 
wind, fog and rain. 

Victoria. 3 

" The most westerly city in the British Empire " 
excels all the ports of the Northwest in the dig- 
nity of its entrance. James Bay forms an inner 
gate of the harbour. Within hail of the in- 
coming steamer are the magnificent Empress 
Hotel, opened in 1907, and the impressive pile of 
the domed Parliament Buildings. 

On either side stretch business and residential 
streets. The former have little interest for the 
tourist except for shops which sell foreign wares. 

3 Daily steamer service from and to Vancouver, Port 
Townsend, Washington, and Seattle. Time to Port Town- 
send across Juan de Fuca Straits, 2y z hrs.; to Seattle 
through Puget Sound, 4y 2 hrs. For Vancouver and Prince 
Rupert connections, see paragraphs in fine print preceding 
" Vancouver Island." 

Weekly sailings between San Francisco and Victoria by 
Pacific Coast S. S. Company. 



VANCOUVER CITY AND ISLAND 389 

A certain candy merchant is known far and wide 
not only for the excellence and high cost of his 
sweets, but for his custom of locking the doors 
at whatever hour the day's supply may be sold out, 
and going about his pleasure. This Arcadian 
mood dominated Victoria commerce more in other 
days than now, when Vancouver's vigorous rise 
is reflected from across the Strait. But British 
mannerisms still prevail in speech, social and busi- 
ness customs and architecture, and for the last- 
ing charm of provincial Victoria, may they always 
prevail. West of Quebec there is not a Canadian 
city with an individual personality until one 
reaches the holly-hedged capital of British Co- 
lumbia. 

Tally-hos, motor-buses and rakish touring-cars 
surround the exit of the Canadian Pacific dock and 
solicit fares from among the " stop-overs " who 
purpose seeing Victoria between sailings to or 
from Vancouver. It is not unusual for a steamer 
to bring a thousand passengers from Seattle. 
Within ten minutes after landing, the greater part 
have been whirled away in some sort of convey- 
ance to get a blurred vision of homes withdrawn 
among gardens that smack of those on another 
tight little isle we know, and of the heights, dells, 
sheep-pastures, rose-walks and floral borders of 
beauteous Beacon Park. 

Retired officers of His Majesty's Army and 
Navy, professional men, land-owners, sportsmen, 
attracted by the South England balm of Victoria's 
climate, and by the all-winter cricket, golfing, 
motoring, cruising, hunting and fishing to be had 
in the neighbourhood, ask no better boon than an 
ivied cottage or walled estate within its precincts, 



390 THE TOURIST'S NORTHWEST 

or on the outskirts where berry patches thrive 
early and late, and fresh produce is picked all the 
year. 

On this island " ever green in a climate ever mild," 
James Douglas, having arrived in March, 1843, in 
the The Beaver, whose hulk now lies in Vancouver 
harbour, and " having determined on a site, . . . 
put his men to work squaring timbers and digging 
a well " for the Hudson's Bay fort at Camosun. 
When it was explained to the natives " that he 
had come to build among them," relates Bancroft 
in Douglas's own words, " they were greatly 
pleased, and pressed their assistance on the fort 
builders, who employed them at the rate of a 
blanket for every forty pickets they would bring." 
Though Songhies, Clallams and Cowichans seemed 
friendly, the new post, garrisoned by fifty men, was 
" armed to the teeth " and " constantly on guard." 
The trading-station, first designated as Fort Al- 
bert, was re-named for Victoria, Queen of Eng- 
land. 

James Douglas, associate of Dr. John McLough- 
lin, and Hudson's Bay man-of-all-work, became 
Governor of Vancouver Island in 1851, and later 
was created a baronet. The Provincial Archives 
Department, established in 1910 by the Hon. H. 
E. Young, Provincial Secretary and Minister of 
Education, acquired in the year 1913 a collection 
of autograph letters and diaries of Douglas, Mc- 
Loughlin, Sir George Simpson, David Thompson 
and many important figures in early Vancouver 
Island and mainland history. The Archives also 
contain two autograph letters of Captain Cook 
written at the Sandwich Islands in 1778, letters 
and reports by Captain Vancouver and Senor 
Quadra relative to the cession of Nootka, and 






VANCOUVER CITY AND ISLAND 391 

further narratives of Spanish explorers, most of 
which have never been printed, except in official 
reports of the Department. Among other rare 
possessions are illuminated " mappes " done two 
and three centuries ago, and " sea-cardes " which 
express the primitive impression of the Pacific sea- 
board, also sets of Hudson's Bay Company's coins, 
and old-time photographs and sketches of the 
British Columbia that was. 

The Archives, containing " the largest existing 
collection of material covering the Northwest of 
the continent " are housed in the Provincial Li- 
brary, whose corner-stone was laid by the Duke 
of Connaught in 1913. 

The Provincial Museum displays so important 
an assemblage of objects native to the Pacific 
Northwest that tourists whose stay is short will 
spend their time more instructively examining the 
contents of this treasure-house than climbing to 
the dome of the Parliament Buildings for a view 
no matter how charming, or motoring in the park. 
The wise will remain long enough to do all three. 
The Government has collected since 1886 a vast 
number of examples of Indian crafts — ceremonial 
blankets, dance instruments and head-dresses, 
feast dishes and funeral masks; utensils of wood, 
jade and horn graven with traditional designs of 
eagle, beaver, killer-whale and raven; fire-making 
apparatus ; heraldic or totem poles ; communal 
house and mortuary models; carved and inlaid 
cradles, coffins, and chests for the storing of robes 
and paraphernalia ; chiefs' " copper," which repre- 
sented wealth; nose-pins and labrets; fish hooks 
and clubs, fish traps and nets, cod and halibut lines 
of twisted spruce or kelp; hunting appliances, 
stone tools, bone knives; baskets of split spruce 



392 THE TOURIST'S NORTHWEST 

root and matting of woven cedar bark, and sleep- 
ing and wall-mats of rushes ; canoes with vertical 
cut-water and stone anchor; seal hunters' boxes 
to hold ammunition and tackle; looms for the 
weaving of cloaks of cedar bark or wool; games, 
including " dolls " carved to represent animals 
or mythical beings ; brass and copper ornaments ; 
hiaqua, or tubular " money-shells . . . collected 
alive or soon after the death of the mollusc . . . 
fished for by means of a special apparatus . . . 
in the quiet waters of the fjords of the west coast 
(of the island), notably between Nootka and 
Kyuquot," and used as an article of trade, " not 
only on the Pacific Coast from California to 
Alaska, but also . . . far inland beyond the 
Rocky Mountains." 

Here are blankets made by river tribes of dog's 
hair and wild goat's wool. The process of blan- 
ket-making by Salishan women is thus described 
in the Guide to the Anthropological Collection of 
the Museum: 

The dried skins of native white-haired dogs, or of the 
mountain goat being ready, a quantity of burnt diato- 
maceous earth is crumbled over the woolly hair and well- 
beaten in with sword-shaped sticks of maple, so as to absorb 
the grease and allow the threads of wool to bind well dur- 
ing spinning. The wool is then removed with knives, or 
pulled out after moistening the skins and " sweating " them 
to loosen the roots. It is now made up into loose threads, 
by rolling either on the actual thigh, or on an artificial one, 
covered with sheeting. Two baskets are filled with the 
thread, and from each is taken an end to be twisted to- 
gether by means of large spinning wheels, which seem to 
have invariably been made of the large-leaved maple, many 
of them well-carved with designs of the protecting spirit 
of the owner. To get sufficient tension, the combined 
threads before being attached to the spinning apparatus, 
are passed over a beam, or through a perforated stone or 
carved bird, fastened to the end of the loom. 

British Columbia mammals, birds, shells and 




Mary E. Yaimtuui 
MIRROR LAK 



ONE OF THE LAKES IN 
ABOVE LAKE LOUISE 



THE CLOUDS, 



VANCOUVER CITY AND ISLAND 393 

fishes are realistically exhibited in the Provincial 
Museum of Natural History and Ethnology, in a 
wing of the Parliament Buildings. Witness the 
white bear, the Big-Horn sheep, the Northwest 
Coast heron, the pied-bill grebe groups, arranged 
with native background. The salmon's life is 
shown from eggs to fish, and all the many varieties 
of Pacific salmon are represented in the Fisheries 
Department. 

Little Saanich Mountain, near Victoria, a short 
drive by motor-road, has been selected by the 
Provincial authorities for the new Astronomical 
Observatory, which is to shelter the largest reflect- 
ing telescope in the world. 

Victoria is the transportation centre for a num- 
ber of by-trips that would easily consume a month 
if justice were done them all. Electric cars reach 
Oak Bay and the Golf Links (4 m.) ; the former 
naval station at Esquimalt (5 m.) ; Deep Cove 
(25 m.), and points on Saanich Inlet. The tran- 
quil shore and forest retreat at Brentwood (12 
m.), has already been given some notice under 
"Hotels," Chapter XIII. The Inlet creates a 
long water playground where one canoes, bathes 
or fishes in salt water as calmly as on a country 
creek. Delightful social conditions prevail of 
which the inn is the focal point. By favour of the 
manager, entrance may be gained to a near-by gar- 
den estate which speaks more effectively than 
words of the mild temper of the Saanich Penin- 
sula climate, and its influence on growing things. 
Brentwood is an objective point on one of the 
main motor tours of the Island. 3 

Locally popular water-trips within a short dis- 
tance of Victoria have as their goal Cordova Bay, 

s See under " Motorways," Chapter XII. 



394 THE TOURIST'S NORTHWEST 

Mayne Island, and "the Gorge," which is to Vic- 
toria boatmen what the Northwest Arm is to Hali- 
gonians. Indian canoe races are run in this tide- 
ripped inlet on Dominion holidays. 

Victoria is the southern terminus of three steam 
railways. The Victoria and Sidney road runs 16 
miles north through Saanichton to Sidney, where 
there is a colony of pleasant people given to coun- 
try sports. The new Canadian Northern line 
serves the west coast as far as the head of Alberni 
Canal and crosses the Island to the east coast. 

Trains leave the unpretentious station of the 
Esquimalt and Nanaimo Railway, a subsidiary of 
the C. P. R., for Malahat, Shawnigan Lake (26 
m.), Duncan (40 m.), Cowichan Lake, 4 Lady smith, 
Nanaimo (72 m.), Wellington, Qualicum Beach 
102 m.), 5 Courtenay (140 m.), 5 Cameron Lake 
(108 m.), 5 and Port Alberni (134 m.). 5 The 
rails of the main line follow for the first 20 miles 
the general direction of the notoriously beautiful 
Island Highway, climbing among thickly clad hills 
and surprising intermittent views of Saanich Inlet 
and the Gulf Islands. 

Shawnigan Lake, 5 miles off the Malahat Drive, 
is directly accessible from the railway. Indeed 
the first platform of the two lake stations leads 
directly to the entrance of Strathcona Lodge. 
Beyond the entrance, one traverses the broad 
drawing-rooms with their East Indian draperies, 
descends from the verandah to the lawn, and pass- 
ing the prideful patch of the Chinese gardener, 
arrives at the launch landing. The lake, long, 
winding, and surrounded by a high ridge of hills, 

4 Twice a week. 

5 Three times a week. 



VANCOUVER CITY AND ISLAND 395 

is a veritable paradise of leafy banks and smooth 
waters that many little cottages survey from con- 
tented crannies among the trees. 

Motorists may return from Shawnigan Lake to 
Victoria via Sooke Lake, or go on in the direction 
of the railway to Duncan, 40 miles north of Vic- 
toria, and £2 miles east of Cowichan Lake. 

Duncan is the market centre for a region of dairy 
farms, fruit lands, deep woods, mines, and fishing 
waters that gives pleasant homes to an increasing 
population from Canada and over-seas, and at- 
tracts vacationists all the year. Strangers are 
welcome to visit the grounds of Cedar Chine, the 
estate of the Honourable R. M. Palmer, former 
Deputy-Minister of Agriculture in British Colum- 
bia, which skill and taste have evolved from the 
forest. 

It is said on good authority that the enormous 
dimensions attained by the Douglas fir, the cedar 
and hemlock of Vancouver Island " are unequalled 
by any trees occupying corresponding latitudes 
in other countries." A certain big tree which, 
stands by the road at Westholme, 7 miles beyond 
Duncan, is worth staying over a train to see. 

Nanaimo (pronounced Na-m-mo) has been a coal 
mining centre since 1850, when seams were dis- 
covered through following directions given by In- 
dians. During the early period of development, 
coal was sold to San Francisco at $28 a ton, a 
" strong rich coal, full of sulphurous matter." 
Under the regime of the Hudson's Bay Company 
there was a trading post here. 

Omnibuses meet trains and convey passenger to 
the dock of the triple turbine screw steamer 
Patricia, which makes two round trips every week- 
day between Nanaimo and Vancouver. For those 



396 THE TOURIST'S NORTHWEST 

inclined to seasickness this is the best route in 
rough weather, as the crossing time is only about 
a third of that from Victoria to Vancouver. 

At Parksville Junction the rails turn off to Quali- 
cum Beach whose alluring features are a sunny 
white strand two miles long, temperate water for 
bathing, a sheltered course for yachting, an 18- 
hole course for golfing, excellent fishing and shoot- 
ing, extensive mountain views and an exception- 
ally attractive hotel. 

The next point of interest beyond Qualicum 
(" much fish ") is Campbell River, reached part 
way by rail, or all the way by motor, or by steamer 
from Island or mainland ports. Eventually the 
railroad will continue beyond this famous fishing 
resort to the Pacific end of the Island, traversing 
a territory 150 miles long now given over for the 
most part to a vast timber land and the beasts 
and rangers that inhabit it. Scattered through 
this domain are several peaks 6000 to 7500 feet 
in altitude, Mt. Victoria being the highest. 
Campbell River is the gateway to Strathcona 
Park, the virgin reserve through which the Gov- 
ernment is laying roads for the future enjoyment 
of the people. 

Cameron Lake is 13 miles northwest of Parks- 
ville Junction, near the base of Mt. Arrowsmith 
(5960 ft.), a peak as effective, if not so tall, as 
many a more famous mountain. By launch from 
the Chalet you can border the lake's gentle coves, 
fair cliffs and looming firs, and reach a beach 
from which five minutes' scramble through ferns 
and wood-fall will bring you to the three-mile lane 
of glorious trees which is one of the Island's chief 
lures for the tourist. If you are going on to Al- 
berni by motor you will thread this silent lane of 



VANCOUVER CITY AND ISLAND 397 

nature where pillars stand erectly and with sur- 
passing symmetry more than two hundred feet 
above the road. They stand so close, these royal 
firs and cedars, five to nine feet in diameter, that 
the very atmosphere takes on the reflected green of 
their foliage. The forest is inexpressibly beau- 
tiful, but there are flies in the ointment — clouds 
of mosquitoes — of whose attacks one is more than 
usually impatient because they distract peaceful 
contemplation. The most ardent tree-worshipper 
cannot remain beauty-struck under the surgery 
of the most diligent of pests. So a car is ad- 
vised for the pilgrimage — one that can go faster 
than wings. 

Fishermen, motorists, and climbers of Arrow- 
smith form the majority of the guests at Cameron 
Lake. But other visitors find themselves very 
happy basking among the shade trees on its beach, 
paddling over its serene surface, visiting neigh- 
bouring camps 1 . They enjoy the simple tasty 
dishes prepared by the tiny inn's English cook, 
and the cosy chintz-ness of the wee sitting-room, 
and at night sleep in a tent or a balconied bed- 
room made cool by lake and mountain breezes. 

Alberni, 20 miles over a ridge beyond Cameron 
Lake, by rail or road, is nearer the east coast than 
the west, yet down the canal of the same name one 
may sail in three hours to the open Pacific through 
Barkley Sound. Port Alberni, the new town, is 
the terminus of the railway. Sproat Lake and 
Great Central Lake attract fishermen and tourists 
by automobile, who pursue the road from Alberni 
12 miles to reach the latter resort. 

Great Central Lake, 26 miles long, is surrounded 
by typical island forests and has an outlook on a 
range of glacier peaks to the north. The Ark, a 



398 THE TOURISTS NORTHWEST 

floating anglers' hotel, provides plain but exceed- 
ingly novel entertainment for the transient. 

Port Alberni is a call-port on the route of the 
steamer which leaves Victoria twice a month for 
Holberg, at the northern end of the Island. The 
round trip is made in six days via Juan de Fuca 
Straits and the Pacific. Inlets and protected sea 
channels are numerous, but the trip is not likely 
to prove agreeable to bad sailors, unless the 
weather is altogether favourable. 

At Bamfield, the first important stop west of 
Victoria, is the station of the Australian cable, 
" longest single stretch in the world." On Al- 
berni Canal are native villages and a whaling sta- 
tion, one of three on the Island. A Provincial 
booklet reports 1100 whales caught in a recent 
year, and " manufactured " by the Pacific Whale 
Company. The value of the catch was $536,000. 
Whale meat and pickled whale's tails, so Heaton's 
manual informs, are exported to Japan. We 
learn also that the sulphur bottom is the most 
common species, that its average weight is 60 tons 
and its value over $500. Hump-backs and fin- 
backs are smaller. There is great rejoicing when 
a " right " whale succumbs to harpoon or prussic 
acid bomb, for one of ordinary size is worth several 
thousand dollars. 

Clayoquot is notable for the amount of rain 
which descends upon it, in occasional years as 
much as twelve feet. It also has fine mountain 
and forest scenery. Indeed this whole west coast 
reminds one of Newfoundland's southern fjords, 
though the Pacific isle is greener and less forbid- 
ding. Beyond Nootka Sound there is another 
whale factory at Kyuquot, which we think 



VANCOUVER CITY AND ISLAND 399 

rivals Kwakiutl in eccentric Indian spelling. 
Rounding Cape Cook, the little steamer breasts 
the Pacific undefended by island wave-breaks, and 
continues to the Scandinavian settlement of Hol- 
berg, its westward destination. 

Nootka has greater significance than any other 
one name in the history of the Pacific Northwest. 
Perez, first of the discoverers to sail into the far 
north from California, entered the sound in 1774, 
and marked it for settlement by the Spanish, and 
from its banks Heceta and Quadra took sweeping 
possession of all the coast for their sovereign, 
Charles the Third. In 1780 a Spanish fort was 
planted at Friendly Cove. Nootka Island was the 
first port in North America touched by Cook and 
Vancouver, and was later very nearly the cause 
of war between Spain and England. In this har- 
bour traders from all the world congregated dur- 
ing the years when a beaver skin secured from an 
Island Indian for a kettle or a pound of shot, 
twelve buttons or a string of fish hooks could be 
sold in China for twenty to thirty dollars. In the 
year of Vancouver's second voyage to Nootka 
(1792), seventeen ships, sloops, brigs and schoon- 
ers from London, Bristol, Bengal, Canton, Bos- 
ton, New York and Lisbon were engaged in com- 
merce on this coast — the beaver traders' El Do- 
rado. Until the end of the nineteenth century's 
first decade Nootka Sound was the best known 
harbour on the Northwest seaboard. 

In 1803, and again in 1811 the crews of two 
American vessels were massacred in Nootka waters 
by Indians. The villainy of the natives who at- 
tacked the Tonquin, which had brought Astor's 
men to the mouth of the Columbia in the latter 
year, was speedily avenged by the clerk of the 



400 THE TOURIST'S NORTHWEST 

Tonqum, who blew up the ship's magazine when 
the savages crowded on board the day following 
the massacre. 

The first tragedy in Nootka harbour is dramati- 
cally narrated in a little volume printed at Mid- 
dletown, Connecticut, in 1815, and put forth as 
the personal reminiscence of the " Adventures and 
Sufferings of John R. Jewitt, Only Survivor of 
the Crew of the Ship Boston, During a Captivity 
of Nearly Three Years Among the Savages of 
Nootka Sound." Jewitt, when a youth of nine- 
teen sailed with the, captain of the Boston from 
" The Downs," England, direct for the Vancouver 
Island port, with a cargo of " English cloths, 
Dutch blankets, looking-glasses, beads, knives, 
razors, sugar, rum, ammunition, cutlasses, pis- 
tols, muskets and fowling-pieces." After a voy- 
age of six and a half months around the 
Horn the vessel anchored off Friendly Cove in 
March, 1803. The Nootka Chief, Maquinna, 
came aboard dressed " in a mantle of the black 
sea otter skin " with a belt of yellow fabric made 
from bark. He and his attendants dined with the 
Boston's crew, particularly enjoying bread dipped 
in molasses, and offering salmon and ducks in ex- 
change. One day Captain Salter loaned Ma- 
quinna a fowling-piece. Upon its being returned 
slightly broken, the captain expressed displeasure, 
whereat the chief took offense. When next he 
came out to the ship he wore a wooden mask, the 
head of a wild beast. The day after, Jewitt being 
below heard a commotion, ran on deck, and found 
the Indians slaughtering his mates. He himself 
was caught by the hair and lifted from his feet, 
but the hair " being short, and the ribbon with 
which it was tied slipping," he fell from the sav- 



VANCOUVER CITY AND ISLAND 401 

age's hold into the steerage, and thus escaped 
by the length of a ribbon decapitation with an axe 
already wet with blood. Soon there arose over 
the quiet harbour of Nootka a barbarous song of 
triumph and yells from naked fiends who danced 
upon a deck rolling with the heads of their victims. 

When Jewitt was finally discovered he was spared 
at the command of Maquinna, because as an ar- 
mourer he was skilled in mending muskets and 
making daggers and knives. At the triumphal 
feast in Friendly Cove, all dined on " dried clams 
and train oil." The following day Jewitt, having 
obtained permission to return on an errand to the 
Boston, still riding in the sound, he found the 
ship's sail-maker, John Thompson, who had se- 
creted himself in the hold. Declaring that 
Thompson was his father, the youth influenced 
Maquinna to spare the elder man's life. 

At the time of their captivity there were twenty 
houses on the hill above Friendly Cove " on the 
ground occupied by the Spaniards when they kept 
a garrison here." Jewitt's diary records the cere- 
monies, costumes an$ living conditions of the Noot- 
kas of that period. Once he conversed with a 
chief who as a boy remembered the arrival of Cap- 
tain Cook's ships, saying the natives thought them 
" two monstrous birds swimming towards them 
with wings expanded." 

Jewitt accompanied his captors on errands of 
war, and married under Maquinna's compulsion 
the daughter of A-i-tiz-zart, a neighbouring chief. 
Few ships dared enter the harbour because of the 
Boston's fate. It was not until the brig Lydia 
arrived in July, 1805, that by strategy Jewitt se- 
cured the release of himself and his companion. 

On returning down the coast, they entered the 



402 THE TOURIST'S NORTHWEST 

mouth of the Columbia River and heard from the 
inhabitants of the recent departure from Fort 
Clatsop of " Captains Clark and Lewis, for the 
United States of America," and saw medals they 
had given the natives. 

At Nootka may be seen a remarkable allegorical 
monument to the great grandson of Chief Ma- 
quinna, who, in Vancouver's time, was lord over a 
great portion of the Island's west coast. 



CHAPTER XVI 

VANCOUVER TO REVELSTOKE 

BY THE CANADIAN PACIFIC, WITH 

EXCURSIONS INTO SOUTHERN BRITISH 

COLUMBIA 

THROUGH THE OKANAGAN, ARROW AND 

KOOTENAY LAKES. 
TO MACLEOD BY THE CROW'S NEST PASS 

Vancouver — Mission — Agassiz — Hope — Yale — North 
Bend — Lytton — Spence's Bridge — Ashcroft — Kam- 
loops — Sicamous — Revelstoke — Nelson — Kootenay 
Landing — Cranbrook — Fernie — Macleod. 



During the tourist season, travellers by the Cana- 
dian Pacific from Vancouver to Calgary have a 
choice of three daily transcontinental trains. 1 
The Imperial Limited leaves at night, passes 
through the Fraser and Thompson River Canyons 
in the dark, and through the mountains as far as 
Field in the day-time. Passengers by the Trans- 
canada start in the morning, and view the valley 
and gorges before night falls. They miss the 
Selkirk scenery about Glacier and Roger's Pass 

i For equipment, time, route, etc., see " Transportation," 
Chapter XII, and fine print preceding " Vancouver Island," 
Chapter XV. C. P. R. steamers from Seattle and Victoria 
make close connection with trains of the same line leaving 
Vancouver. 

The 24 hour system is in use on the C. P. R. between Van- 
couver and Fort William, Ontario; hours from noon to 
midnight are numbered 12 to 24 o'clock. To reduce to the 
figures of the clock subtract 12. Thus, 21:30 — 12 = 9:30 

P. M. 

Pacific Time changes to Mountain Time (an hour later) 
at Field. 

403 



404 THE TOURIST'S NORTHWEST 

(this if they are going direct without stop-over), 
but from Golden on to Field, Lake Louise, Banff 
and Calgary there is daylight for the mountain 
views. The Soo-Pacific Express is operated over 
the C. P. R. rails independent of the Imperial 
Limited in the summer-time, and gives a daily 
afternoon service from Vancouver. From this 
train much of the valley and canyon scenery, and 
all of the best mountain scenery (Revelstoke to 
Banff), is disclosed in the daylight. 

Passengers leaving Vancouver in the morning by 
the Transcanada frequently stay the night at Sica- 
mous (335 m.), and proceed the next morning by 
the Imperial Limited to Revelstoke, Glacier or 
Field (510 m.). Another night may be spent at 
Field, and the remainder of the run through the 
Rockies to Lake Louise and Banff completed the 
following day. By this procedure the entire 
scenic portion of the main route can be seen to best 
advantage. 

By consulting the_ time-table, tourists stopping 
at the various mountain resorts can arrange inter- 
mediate day trips by using at their convenience 
the foregoing trains, through tickets being inter- 
changeable. 

Between Vancouver and Mission Junction the 
journey is diverted by glimpses of Burrard Inlet 
and broad views of the Fraser coursing its last 
miles to the sea. Pitt Lake is visible from West- 
minster Junction. A multitude of hills, capped 
by Mt. Baker, roll to the south and the north. 
Ambitious townsites, mapped far beyond their 
population, reach on either side the track, and 
rich farms fill the space between. Travellers go- 






VANCOUVER TO REVELSTOKE 405 

ing to Seattle turn off the C. P. R. lines at Mis- 
sion. 2 

Chilliwack, '30 miles beyond, at the end of the 
British Columbia Electric Railway from Vancou- 
ver, is across the Fraser from Agassiz station. 
In this region of rich pastures over 500,000 
pounds of butter are annually produced. Agas- 
siz is the point of departure for the hot springs 
and fishing resort on Lake Harrison, a long body 
of water stretched at the base of Mt. Che-am which 
once had a visit from that ardent angler, the au- 
thor of Kim. 

From Agassiz the river swerves northward and 
the rails follow, mounting gradually. At Hope, 
the trans-province motor-road leaves the valley 
and proceeds to Princeton, Okanagan Lake and 
the Kootenay Country. The Kettle Valley Rail- 
way, operating in conjunction with the Canadian 
Pacific Railway, has recently completed a short 
route to southern British Columbia. 



Hope - Penticton, at the foot of Okanagan Lake, via 
Princeton, 180 miles, three times a week. The scenery 
through the mountains has some bold and beautiful aspects 
— switch-back climbs, wide views from high elevations, 
gorges, waterfalls, agricultural valleys newly settled, and, 
near Penticton, sloping orchards bordering the lake. At 
Princeton, passengers leave the train en masse, rattle 
through the main street of the Western-looking lumber and 
mining town in a free omnibus and dine with more or less 
haste on roast meats and sundry kinds of pie. Thus sus- 
tained, the journey via omnibus and train is renewed to 
Penticton, 70 miles distant. (See under "Okanagan Lake," 
this chapter.) 

By Great Northern Railway, there is direct rail access to 
Spokane, 300 miles to the south, via Keremeos, Oroville 
and Marcus. 

2 See paragraph, " Vancouver - Seattle," in fine print pre- 
ceding " Vancouver Island," Chapter XV, 



406 THE TOURIST'S NORTHWEST 

Yale, named for a redoubtable little adventurer 
who traded on the Upper Fraser a century and 
more ago, lay in the path of the gold-seekers who 
first surged up this valley in the late fifties. 
Those were boisterous days at Fort Yale. Fes- 
tivities were enlivened by pistol arguments and 
broken heads. Duels begun with rifles at forty 
paces, were finished with bowie knives. The river 
was thronged with freight boats. Provisions were 
at an exorbitant price. New Westminster, a hun- 
dred miles away, was the centre of supply, and to 
reach the Cariboo goldfields another three hun- 
dred miles must be traversed afoot or by perilous 
canoe. 

In 1863 Royal Engineers began to build the Cari- 
boo Road north from Yale. Remnants of the trail 
discarded since the railway came are visible all the 
way to Lytton, " clinging to the mountain like 
basket-work stuck on a huge wall." At Spuzzum 
the old road reaches the opposite bank by a slen- 
der hanging bridge. Arrived at this point we 
have entered the gorge of the Fraser, where the 
river battles with the granite of mountainous cliffs, 
and the rails are laid on shelves of rock and dis- 
appear at intervals through protruding buttresses, 
about which the water gnaws and foams. 

On a night in June, 1808, Simon Fraser and his 
crew of " Nor'westers " camped at Spuzzum on 
the way to the sea from Fort McLeod, " first fur 
post west of the Rockies." Thus far he had de- 
scended the great river of the north, thinking it 
the famed Columbia. A day's journey further on 
he came to the realisation that his six weeks' 
canoe journey, fraught with daily hazards, had 
been upon a stream which turned Pacific-wards 
much to the north of the Columbia — was indeed 



VANCOUVER TO REVELSTOKE 407 

one hitherto unknown to white men, though 
thickly settled along its banks with treacherous 
Lillooets and Shuswaps. 

The towns on this part of the river have still 
their quota of salmon-fishing Indians whose meek 
brown faces appear on the platform eager for cus- 
tomers. Occasionally they find takers for a ten- 
pound salmon at two or three cents a pound. 
These are the sons of savages who " swarmed like 
hornets " around Fraser's camp, so that " every 
man kept guard with back to tree and musket 
in hand." 

Beyond Spuzzum the grandeur of the river pas- 
sage increases as ragged walls draw closer. The 
channel is clogged with fallen debris. From Hell 
Gate to Boston Bar the car windows survey its 
rapids and frowning black heights at an elevation 
of 200 feet. In the spring the outpouring of the 
mountains raises the water here to a point half 
way up to the rails. 

North Bend, midway through the canyon, greets 
the crag-awed traveller with fountains and velvet 
lawns blue-bordered with tiny flowers. The hotel 
principally entertains guests bent upon sport, but 
affords pleasant accommodation for tourists at- 
tracted by the vigour of the surroundings. 

For still another 25 miles the railway conforms 
to the splendid turnings of the stream as it cork- 
screws a path through the obstinate barriers of 
the upper Coast Range. On the opposite side 
from the Canadian Pacific track gleams the steel 
of the Canadian Northern. The roar of the river, 
'the shriek of the train fill the rock and forest- 
faced valley with an echoing tumult. The climb 
is steady to Keefers and Lytton. From here the 
ascent of the stream is made by road to the town 



408 THE TOURIST'S NORTHWEST 

of Lillooet, also reached by the Pacific Great East- 
ern from Vancouver. Rails draw away from the 
Fraser to the east, and plunge into yet another 
gorge. Fraser named the river we now follow for 
David Thompson, the surveyor in the employ of 
the Northwest Fur Company, who at the time of 
his associate's explorations was tracing the Co- 
lumbia from beyond the Selkirks to its mouth. 

The effectiveness of the Thompson Canyon is due 
to its depth and restricted span, but more espe- 
cially to the vividness of the cliffs which hem the 
hurtling flood of the river, and to their extra- 
ordinary sculpturing. Between the towns of 
Thompson and Spatsum the spectacle is at its 
height. Half-way to the latter station the dreary 
village of Spence's Bridge intervenes between the 
track and the river. 

South from Spence's Bridge a fork of the Canadian Pa- 
cific extends to Merritt (40 m.) and Nicola (47 m.) in the 
high rolling country of the Nicola Valley, where farming 
and stock raising are successfully pursued. One of the 
noted cattle ranches of the Province is in this region. Mer- 
ritt is the northern terminus of the Kettle Valley Railway 
to Penticton, this upper extension joining the road from 
Hope about 30 miles to the south. In the heart of an ex- 
cellent fishing and shooting district, Merritt is also on the 
motor route between Ashcroft and Hope, and Ashcroft and 
Penticton. 

Beyond Spence's Bridge the rails thread a gloom- 
ing alley whose scant width is shared by the agi- 
tated river. The shadows grow deeper as the 
Black Canyon contracts. The tops of the cliffs 
are hundreds of feet above the bed. The sunlight 
that bathes the bare hills about Ashcroft is in 
welcome contrast. Through the gorge of the 
Thompson we have reached the east side of the 
range. Ashcroft is in the dry belt in the centre 



VANCOUVER TO REVELSTOKE 409 

of the Province. Here water is so much a thing 
of commerce that the columns of local newspapers 
are filled with announcements that a certain 
ranching company, or Yenzabaro Moriyama, or 
John Jones purposes to divert and use a stipulated 
number of miners inches or cubic feet from a 
named stream for irrigation, and advising that 
objections to the application for license so to di- 
vert must be filed with the Comptroller of Water 
Rights within thirty days after first publication 
of the notice. 

When the caravans came this way by road for 
the Cariboo mines, Ashcroft was surrounded by 
dust and bunch grass. Thanks to irrigation, 
some of its desolation has been redeemed by the 
planting of farms and orchards. 

The motor stage to Barkerville (287 m.) offers an excur- 
sion to the adventurous scarcely to be equalled elsewhere 
on the continent. Stops are made in the Fraser Valley at 
Clinton, " 150-mile House," Soda Creek, and Quesnel before 
reaching Barkerville, the first gold camp in 1858, and still 
the centre of activities. As in the Yukon, some of the 
argonauts who went in at the first report of " colour " have 
never cared to come out. Mining conditions have changed. 
The individual has surrendered to the corporate miner. 
The frenzied hordes have long since gone, but the veterans 
who are left have tales to tell that would illuminate many 
a page if set down by a skilful hand. 

Prospecting in the summer of 1915 was resumed with some 
semblance of aforetime enthusiasm when it was discovered 
that gold fields supposedly exhausted still held rich stores. 
Some had been abandoned because of their inaccessibility 
and these also are now opening up, due to facilities for 
transportation offered by the Grand Trunk Pacific. Wil- 
liams Creek, the Bonanza Creek of this district, and con- 
tiguous meadows and streams are yielding startling returns 
under the persuasion of modern machinery. 

The prize nugget taken from the Cariboo country was 
picked up on Lightning Creek in August, 1864, and weighed 
thirty ounces. 

Prince George, on the Grand Trunk Pacific, is connected 
with Soda Creek by river steamer. 



410 THE TOURIST'S NORTHWEST 

The Cariboo hunting range has been touched upon under 
"Sports," Chapter XIII. 

The thirstiness of the Kamloops belt is relieved 
by the refreshing expanse of Kamloops Lake 
which makes a 20-mile crescent beside the rails be- 
yond Ashcroft. The sizeable town of Kamloops 
marks the former site of an important Hudson's 
Bay Company fort. Northwest from this point 
the Canadian Northern ascends to the Rockies 
and crosses them through Yellowhead Pass, en 
route to Edmonton. (Kamloops — Edmonton, 
258 m., via Mt. Robson and Jasper Park.) 

The North and South Thompson have their 
junction at the east end of the lake. From Kam- 
loops, a launch trip of 54 miles may be taken by 
following the river through Shuswap Lake and 
Salmon Arm to Sicamous. 

Sicamous is a cross-roads station for rail and 
waterways which lead in many directions, and to 
pleasant places. There is no village, nor is there 
room for one between the cliffs and the inland 
fjord called Salmon Arm, which with Shuswap 
Lake and Adams Lake compose a branching lyre 
of waters embosomed amid the northern hills. 
Trout, duck, grouse, caribou and deer invite the 
sportsman to distant research through these 
tapering inlets enclosed between the North 
Thompson and the Columbia Rivers. The Sica- 
mous boat livery provides the means for days of 
en j oyment. 

The railway hotel is cool and dainty with ver- 
andahs overhanging the water, and gay window 
boxes and green and white hangings to make it 
homelike. The pleasantest rooms are at the back, 
above the water and away from the noise of pass- 



VANCOUVER TO REVELSTOKE 411 

ing trains. As the house is usually crowded, 
rooms should be reserved in advance. 

Okanagan Lake. 

A tourist trip with certain phases of interest 
begins at Sicamous by branch train, follows Mara 
Lake and the Shuswap River south as far as 
Okanagan Landing (50 m.) via Enderby and Ver- 
non, and continues 76 miles through Okanagan 
Lake to Penticton by Canadian Pacific steamer. 
Leaving the head of the lake about two in the 
afternoon, the journey is ended at eight, or a little 
later on " flag days." The comfortable stern- 
wheeler touches first the right, then the left bank 
in performing its week-day service to the estates 
and settlements which have as their cause for 
being the peach, the plum, the cherry and the 
apple tree. Some sand-coloured hills which are in 
effective contrast with very blue sky and jade- 
like water have their level tops or " benches " 
speckled with orchards. Where no fruit trees 
grow, there are scattered groves of evergreens on 
burned, moistureless bluffs. The lower half of 
the lake shows grey prairie weed tufting putty- 
coloured cliffs. Occasionally a hill of beautiful 
formation is composed of violet-coloured rock. 
Or a knoll with yellow carpet has trees filing over 
a succession of humps and down, like a train of 
dusty marchers, into the crevices. There are no 
mountain streams, but a slight accumulation of 
moisture in ravines is indicated by a brightening 
of the tints of trees and herbage, and slender 
tricklings from storage reservoirs streak the 
parched hillside with pale green. 

At Kelowna there are beaches, an aquatic club 
and a shady parklet that have an out-of-the-way, 



412 THE TOURIST'S NORTHWEST 

foreign air. All the feminine population comes 
down in white dresses to meet the steamer — 
dresses bought with crops of apricots, tobacco and 
apples, for of such diverse products are these 
irrigated acres capable. This district has won 
cups, medals and money prizes at fruit shows in 
Canada, the United States and Great Britain. 

Peachland is across the lake on the high west 
bank. The next landing below is Summerland, 
where many orchards are owned by bachelor " re- 
mittance men," and retired lawyers and mer- 
chants. A number of miniature, terraced estates 
are in exceptionally pleasing taste. Baron 
Shaughnessy of Montreal and Ashford is an 
orchardist at sunny Summerland. 

Naramata has two hotels frequented by visitors 
in search of cultured and peaceful environment. 
Eleven miles to the south lies Penticton on a sandy 
flat facing up the lake. In 1906 it had one hun- 
dred inhabitants. During the past ten years its 
population has increased twenty-five fold. Fruit 
shipments now average 160 carloads a year com- 
pared with 8 carloads in 1911. Surrounding 
slopes present an unbroken spread of orchard, 
with here and there a new bungalow. So great 
is the zeal for neighbouring fruit lands that $200 
an acre is readily obtained for pine-grown 
benches. Cleared and stocked, an acre is expected 
to bear in six years fruit worth $2000 a season. 
This, if fire blight does not attack over-watered 
apple trees, or peach-curl does not reduce the 
peach crop, or cherries are not affected by scanty 
pollination. 

Penticton specialises on peaches, but Bing and 
Lambert cherries (meaty red mouthfuls), huge 
apricots, muscat and Flame Tokay grapes, ap- 



VANCOUVER TO REVELSTOKE 413 

pies, plums and nectarines are shipped in great 
quantities. Water is " laid on " in the orchards 
at a cost of $3 a year per acre. 

The Hotel Incola ("Foot of the Lake") was 
erected by railroad interests in 1912. Near-by 
is a club for water sports whose privileges are 
available to visitors for a fee of 25 cents a day. 
Good hard clay roads with a topping of shale 
lead among the hills above the lake; south to 
Okanagan Falls (14 m.); and on through the 
Similkameen district to the boundary, 50 miles 
away. Auto stages run to British Columbia and 
Washington towns. 3 

Penticton is distant 135 miles from Midway by 
the newly opened Kettle Valley Railway, which 
joins Hope, on the main C. P. R. line, to the 
Kootenay country. Hope - Penticton — Midway, 
215 miles. Trains leave Penticton early in the 
morning of Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday, 
and arrive in eight hours at Midway, where im- 
mediate connection is made over a branch of the 
C. P. R. to West Robson (100 m.), at the foot 
of the Arrow Lakes. From this point daily 
steamers will leave in the summer, according to 
the latest advice, for Arrowhead, 125 miles by 
water to the north. (West Robson to Nelson by 
rail, 27 miles; to Rossland, 20 miles.) 

Those who make the Okanagan Lake excursion 
will find this a most enjoyable way of returning 
to the main line at Revelstoke, 45 miles east of 
Sicamous. The Kettle Valley route has remark- 
able features, in themselves worth a trip into the 
southern part of the Province. The line climbs 
above the east bank of Okanagan Lake for 45 

s For route between Penticton and Oroville, see following 
"Lake Chelan," Chapter VIII. 



414 THE TOURIST'S NORTHWEST 

miles between Penticton and Kelowna Siding. 
Beyond the Arlington Lakes awaits an astonish- 
ing prospect from Hydraulic Summit over far- 
reaching crests and the long " rough water " ex- 
tending north and south. The way by C. P. R. 
from Midway is through mineral-laden hills and 
gorges to the Columbia. 

Sicamous — Revelstoke. 

The main line between Sicamous and Revelstoke 
runs for 16 miles beside the Eagle River to 
Craigellachie, a spot historic in Canadian chron- 
icles because at this point the Government-built 
road from the coast joined the Canadian Pacific 
line from the east. Lord Strathcona, then Don- 
ald Smith, wielded the sledge that united the 
transcontinental links. 

Revelstoke, at an elevation of 1500 feet, lies in a 
broad plain beyond Eagle Pass, which provides 
a favourable crossing through the Gold Range 
to the Columbia Valley. This most important 
railway and commercial centre between Vancouver 
and Calgary is putting forth strong claims as a 
pivotal point for tourist excursions. For a re- 
gion of so great attraction and accessibility it 
has been surprisingly little advertised. In an- 
other part of the continent where glacial domes, 
mighty canyons, and mountain- rimmed lakes 100 
miles in length are less a matter of course, Begbie 
and Mt. Revelstoke, the Columbia's gorge, and 
the great water-course to the south would be pub- 
licised to all the world as features of pre-emi- 
nent interest. 

Begbie is the guardian spirit of the plain. 
From street, or hotel verandah, or river garden 
one looks up more than 7000 feet to its triple 



VANCOUVER TO REVELSTOKE 415 

crown. Other summits form a white-ridged bar- 
rier with slopes robed in evergreens encroaching 
upon the trim borders of the little city. Every 
avenue has its culminating vista. From the road 
behind the Hotel Revelstoke, ascent may be made 
by motorway to the crest of the forested monarch 
that watches on the north. The experience of 
being lifted in sharp spirals above the wide, en- 
closed and level valley with a new view at every 
curve of the seventeen-mile drive, brings a sense 
of exhilaration unique among motor climbs. This 
is one of the indescribable excursions of Western 
Canada which no transcontinental tourist should 
forego. The summit is a billowy tract of bal- 
sams, lupin, daisy and Indian paint-brush, of 
waterfalls and lakes, 7000 feet above sea level. 
At this altitude all the mountain glory is dis- 
closed which spreads from the apex of the Colum- 
bia's Big Bend to the Arrow Lakes, and from the 
Gold Range to the Selkirks. For the shelter of 
tourists and mountaineers a small chalet is pro- 
vided in this newly proclaimed National Park. 

Long before wheels mounted the flank of the 
peak, people from the town came by trail to revel 
in its contrasted visions of flowered slopes, for- 
ests, ice fields and young streams. One who 
climbed by the aid of a certain buckskin pony, 
Mrs. Coursier, mistress of " Ballynahinch " on 
the Columbia's banks, has with art rarely excelled 
imprinted these scenes in water colours. 

With the friendly aid of the tourist committee 
organised in 1915 by the Revelstoke branch of 
the Canadian Women's Club, other excursions in 
the vicinity may be arranged. The Canyon Drive 
by the fast sweeping flood of the Columbia is sup- 
plemented by a ramble in a forest gorge to Silver 



416 THE TOURIST'S NORTHWEST 

Tip Falls, fed by Gordon Glacier. Driving east 
from the town, past the junction of the Columbia 
and the Illecillewaet, and past fresh-cleared 
patches planted by Chinese, Scandinavian, Swiss, 
English, Scotch and Irish gardeners, the narrower 
stream is followed beneath the brow of Begbie 
and Macpherson to the box canyon it has forged 
through the rock. 

See Chapter XVII for description of main line route, 
Revelstoke - Calgary. 

Through the Arrow and Kootenay Lakes to 
Kootenay Landing, and by the Crow's Nest 
Pass to Macleod. 4 

The " swollen, rolling, milky " Columbia having 
ascended from its source to a wilderness of north- 
ern passes and gathered the waters from the great 
ice sea below Jasper Park, comes south again and 
for a space of more than a hundred miles loses its 
name and identity in flowing through the glacial 
trough of the Arrow Lakes. A hundred years 
ago, we are told by a chronicler of the river's 
story, it was " the peculiar joy of the voyageurs, 
after having toiled over the snowy and wind-swept 
Athabasca Pass and buffeted the foamy descent 
of Death Rapids, to reach the Arrow Lakes and 
lazily paddle down their tranquil deeps." The 
explanation of the name is somewhat vague. In 
the time of the Indians, bundles of arrows were 
discovered stuck in the banks at the upper end of 
the first lake. How or why, the record does not 
state. 

Travellers who have elected to go east through 

4 See « Tours," Chapter XII. 



VANCOUVER TO REVELSTOKE 417 

the lakes and over Crow's Nest Pass transfer at 
Revelstoke, and with day excursionists proceed 
to the bank of the expanded river by morning 
train. Arrowhead is an hour and a half's ride 
south of the main line. The steamer waits at the 
wharf beside the rails. When passengers and 
freight have come aboard, the prow gently cuts 
the green flow, and the trip down lake is begun. 

Embarked on such a stream as this one recalls, 
perforce, boastful phrases as to certain rivers, 
lakes and mountains of the East. The Atlantic 
seaboard's showiest water and boldest hills are 
scenic baubles in comparison. The best the Hud- 
son can do is surpassed at every bend. Surmount 
Storm King with soaring prongs of snow and pile 
still higher prongs behind. Narrow the Hudson, 
make its bed more tortuous, tint its rocks and 
water with a vivid brush, and you will approxi- 
mate the glamour of the upper Lake of the Ar- 
rows. At its head a river plunges in from the 
vast Illecillewaet neve below Sir Donald, and dis- 
charges its vial of absinthe hue into the whitened 
waters of the Columbia, powerful consort of dis- 
tant glaciers. The colour is mystical, green like 
no other green. 

At Halcyon Hot Springs guests have a broad- 
side view on Halcyon Peak, whose hoary cap is a 
mile and a half above the lake shore, and two miles 
above the sea. As the steamer draws away, the 
king summit plays will-o'-the-wisp with the 
shaggy, beast-haunted ridges that wait upon it. 
One subtle composition is succeeded by another. 
Each vista is lost only to be forgotten in one still 
finer. New crests step into view or etch them- 
selves faintly in the far background. On the 



418 THE TOURIST'S NORTHWEST 

shore, projecting battlements are linked by se- 
cluded coves, forests open wide their sanctuary 
to our silent gaze 

From Nakusp, trade town for acres of fruit 
farms, a 60-mile rail line crosses a mountainous 
interior peninsula, bounded by the Arrow Lakes 
and Kootenay Lake and on the south by the 
Kootenay River. The route is via Rosebery to 
Kaslo, a centre of orchards and silver-lead mines 
near Kootenay Lake. 

Below Nakusp round-sided conical hills on one 
bank and out-thrust prows on the other diminish 
the width of the channel to a crooked thread that 
unites the north lake with the south. When the 
path broadens we are among softer reaches where 
snows disappear and mountain cliffs descend in 
height. 

A voyage of enchantment draws to a close at twi- 
light. At the foot of the lake (West Robson) 5 
the Kootenay River, flowing west from its ex- 
panded valley, the Kootenay Lake, joins the Co- 
lumbia and mingled with the latter's tide for the 
third time crosses the boundary of the United 
States. 

South from Castlegar, across the river from West Robson, 
a rail extension of the C. P. R. winds 30 miles to Rossland 
along the west bank of the Columbia, Mines of fabulous 
wealth are hidden in the adjoining hills. At Trail, 7 miles 
from Rossland, a smelter employing several hundred men 
refines silver and lead, treats copper, and makes lead pipe. 
Rossland is the supply centre for immense gold, silver and 
copper operations, including the Le Roi Group, the Le Roi 
No. 2, the War Eagle, Centre Star, and Richmond Consoli- 
dated Group. Le Roi founded the wealth of many Spokane 

s Excursionists returning to Revelstoke by the same 
steamer remain on board (lower berth, $1.50; cabin for two, 
$2.50), and begin the northbound trip at 11 p.m. (daily in 
summer), arriving in Revelstoke the next afternoon. 
Round trip fare, $10. Excellent meals, 75 cents and $1. 



VANCOUVER TO REVELSTOKE 419 

millionaires. In the centre of the town is a monument to 
"Father Pat," the Reverend Henry Irvine, Anglican mis- 
sionary and rector of St. George's, who died in 1902 at the 
age of forty-one. An Oxford graduate, he was noted for 
his quickness of wit and fists, for his generosity, and self- 
sacrifice. During the height of the discoveries excitement 
he frequently walked miles into the mountains to minister to 
those who needed him. 

Rossland lies on a branch of the road which connects Spo- 
kane with Nelson, and is 5 miles from the boundary. 

For an hour the train runs from West Robson 
to Nelson along the banks of the hoydenish Koote- 
nay, black-green in colour and remarkable for its 
cascades and continual agitation. Occasionally 
fertile flats spread between the road and the deep 
rush of the stream, which falls 200 feet in the 
25-mile passage. 

As darkness slowly descends one descries groups 
at the little flag stations that suggest Russia. 
Even in the half-light, head kerchiefs, full skirts, 
broad hips and faces are unmistakably Slav. The 
brakeman explains. These are Doukhobor lands. 
Thousands of acres are under cultivation. Fruit 
and grain are marketed on the communal system, 
and the Prophet is the wily treasurer. Besides 
farms and gardens there is a successful jam fac- 
tory near Brilliant. Each workman receives 
lodging, sustenance and clothes, but the religious 
and business chief controls all expenditures. 

South Slocan is the point of departure for trains which 
leave every week-day morning for Slocan City, 32 miles 
north. A C. P. R. steamer connects at the terminus for a 
23-mile trip of striking beauty through Slocan Lake to 
Rosebery. Over this little-travelled by-way one may return 
to the Arrow Lakes by train from Rosebery to Nakusp, or 
reach upper Kootenay Lake at Kaslo. This is a region of 
interest both to the sight-seer and angler. 

The splendid torrent of Bonnington Falls is 
faintly visible to the right as we draw on to Nel- 



420 THE TOURIST'S NORTHWEST 

son. Travellers who return this way see the 
rapids and crescent plunge in the daylight. 
Those who know the Columbia and its tributaries 
proclaim it the finest waterfall of the entire sys- 
tem, with the exception of the Snake River Falls 
at Shoshone, Idaho. Power is generated here for 
the operation of mines at Rossland and elsewhere. 

The Silver King mine on the heights above Nel- 
son has yielded over $10,000,000 worth of ore 
since discovery about fifteen years ago. The 
total value of the gold, silver, copper, lead, coal, 
zinc and marble annual output of the Kootenay 
and Boundary districts, of which Nelson is the 
capital, is estimated at $25,000,000. The Do- 
minion has established an electric zinc smelter at 
Nelson for the separation of the alloy from gold, 
silver and copper ore with which it is commonly 
associated. 

The city is commandingly situated on a slope 
overlooking the broad gorge of the Kootenay. 
Hundreds of motor-boats are owned in the neigh- 
bourhood, and all kinds of aquatics are popular. 

Passengers by train usually spend the night on 
the connecting C. P. R. steamer, which early the 
following morning leaves Nelson for Procter and 
Balfour (32 m.). Between these two settlements 
the West Arm of Kootenay Lake opens from the 
magnificent glacier-wrought excavation which is 
filled with the waters of the northward-flowing 
Kootenay River. As in the Arrow Lakes, this 
lake is merely a river broadened out. 

The new Canadian Pacific hotel on the exposed 
hillside above Balfour faces the Arm (which is 
the river turning west) and overlooks on the east 
the long body of Lake Kootenay, which extends 
for over a hundred miles above and below the 




5£ 



VANCOUVER TO REVELSTOKE 421 

mouth of the branching stream. Few who wander 
this southern maze of alpine lakes and rivers to 
reach the East, or come this way to the Pacific, 
ignore the hospitality of the Kootenay Lake 
Hotel which so invitingly offers its porches and 
look-outs, its tennis courts and exquisite rooms 
for the pleasure of tourist and sportsman. This 
is a region of hot noons and cool nights, and lazy 
hours pass quickly. Trails by water and land 
explore the lake's wild shores. Famed pools 
provide angling for devotees of the rod, and 
launch and rowboat are for hire at the landing. 
Several mountains are within convenient climbing 
distance. All about are frosted summits with 
altitudes of 7000 to 9000 feet, which look east 
and north to the still higher summits of the 
Selkirks. 

The steamer ride up the lake to Kaslo and! 
Lardo reveals scenic effects surpassing even those 
of the upper Arrow. Boats from Nelson give 
a service every week-day to Kaslo, and twice 
a week to Lardo. By rail, and steamer on Trout 
Lake one enters from Lardo deep into the fast- 
nesses between the Selkirks and the south-cours- 
ing Columbia. From Kaslo the circuit back to 
the main transcontinental line may be completed 
via rail (three times a week) to Nakusp and 
Arrow Lake steamer (probably daily in summer) 
to Revelstoke. The circular tour, Revelstoke - 
Nelson - Balfour ( 24 hours ) — Kaslo — Na- 
kusp - Revelstoke can be made in two and a half 
to four days, according to connections at Nelson, 
Balfour and Kaslo, and comprehends the best 
scenery in southern British Columbia. 

Through passengers continue early in the morn- 



422 THE TOURIST'S NORTHWEST 

ing from Balfour down the lake to Kootenay 
Landing (2% hrs.) and there make connection 
with the Crow's Nest Pass express. The line 
passes through Creston, Yakh, Cranbrook, Col- 
valli, Caithness, Elko, Fernie, Michel, over the 
Rockies beneath Crow's Nest Mountain, and 
so to Macleod (250 m.), on the way to Leth- 
bridge, Dunmore (392 m.) and St. Paul (1370 
m. ) . Vancouver — Revelstoke — Kootenay Land- 
ing — Macleod — Dunmore - St. Paul, 2000 miles. 

The tedium of the miles between Kootenay Land- 
ing and Yakh is distracted by the sight of or- 
chards, truck gardens and berry fields about Cres- 
ton, 6 by the gorge of the Goat River, and the 
ascent to the pass through the Selkirks. Yakh 
is at the junction of the Canadian Pacific • — Spo- 
kane International route to Washington. 7 

At Cranbrook we have descended the east slope 
of the range and arrive on a broad, high prairie 
bounded by the Selkirks and the Rockies. Rich 
mines and a noted hunting and fishing region are 
tributary to this important farm and railway 
community. Good motor-roads radiate in several 
directions. The one of greatest interest to tour- 
ists leads up the valley to Lake Windermere and 
Golden, with views of both ranges and the new- 
born Columbia and Kootenay Rivers to beguile 
the way. 

The rail line through the valley to Golden 
branches at Colvalli, beyond the Kootenay River 
bridge. Here the river is on its way to the bound- 
ary, which is crossed at Gateway, Montana. 

e Great Northern to Bonner's Ferry, Idaho. See closing 
paragraphs of Chapter X. 

7 The route via Kingsgate is indicated in Note 3, Chap- 
ter X. 



VANCOUVER TO REVELSTOKE 423 

Making a great loop, the stream re-enters British 
Columbia below Kootenay Landing, 100 miles to 
the west. These erratic waters therefore traverse 
the international border three twines — twice 
under the appellation of the Kootenay River, and 
once when merged with the Columbia. 

Caithness and Elko are portals to Montana and 
Glacier National Park, via Canadian Pacific and 
Great Northern rails. 8 

The close-walled valley of the Elk River makes 
a path among majestic snow-caps which the track 
ascends to Fernie (3300 ft.). This is one of the 
notable coal-producing districts of the continent. 
Over a million and a half tons are mined annually, 
and 2000 men are in the employ of the Crow's 
Nest Pass Coal Company. Fernie gives proof of 
its energy in its good hotels, handsome public 
buildings and hospitals, athletic clubs and fac- 
tories. Hunters go north into the mountains 
from this point, or from Michel, for big game, 
especially goats and sheep. 

The abrupt pinnacles above Fernie have their 
replicas in the sharp steep summits which add 
splendour to the zigzag climb to Crow's Nest Pass 
(4427 ft.), S3 miles to the east. Above this par- 
ticular vertebra of the continent's backbone and 
above Crow's Nest Lake towers aloof and in sin- 
gular majesty the pillar of Crow's Nest Moun- 
tain. Its altitude (9125 ft.) is not exceptional 
in this ocean of peaks, but it has a personality 
which none who look on it soon forget. Turtle 
Mountain, east of the Divide, is in brusque con- 
trast — an angular lift of rock with a broken spire 
at the top that discourages encroachment. 

s See Note 4, Chapter X ; also under " Transportation and 
Routes," Chapter XII, thirteenth paragraph. 



424 THE TOURIST'S NORTHWEST 

The railway, and the Government motor-road, 
which parallels it a short distance north, de- 
scend from the Provincial boundary line and run 
down grade in the direction of Old Man River, 
through Alberta coal mining towns and across 
numberless racing creeks and brooks to the 
plateau below the foothills, wheron is situate 
Macleod. The ranges hereabouts feed the cattle 
which supply Canada and countries far beyond 
with beef. Macleod, site of the first station of the 
Royal North-West Mounted Police, has had fame 
for forty years as a typical " cow town." 

From the plains we look back to the Indians' 
" Crest of the World," where in their belief Wa- 
condah, master of life, dwelt in the " Land of 
Souls." 

On the border of Alberta and Montana lies the 
smallest of the Dominion National Parks, enclos- 
ing the Waterton Lakes. It is reached from 
Macleod by road, but more conveniently from 
Pincher, a rail station 80 miles west of Macleod. 
Pincher is about the same distance north of this 
Rocky Mountain tract, from which there is trail 
connection with the upper borders of Glacier Na- 
tional Park. There is a hotel on the north lake 
and comfortable arrangements have been made for 
the entertainment of the increasing numbers of 
tourists and fishermen who each year seek out this 
corner of Alberta, as beautiful as it is remote. 

Macleod - Calgary, via Canadian Pacific, 108 miles. At 
Dunmore, 140 miles east of Macleod, the Crow's Nest 
Route joins the main line of the Canadian Pacific. 

Macleod - Calgary - Edmonton, 300 miles. 



CHAPTER XVII 

REVELSTOKE TO CALGARY 

THROUGH THE SELKIRKS 

AND THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, 

WITH AN EXCURSION INTO 

THE WINDERMERE VALLEY 

Revelstoke — Glacier — Golden — Field — Lake Louise — 
Banff — Calgary. 



Within the embrace of the Columbia and Koote- 
nay Rivers is confined the tumult of peaks de- 
fined as the Selkirk and the Purcell Ranges. The 
apex formed by the rails of the Canadian Pacific 
does not include the Purcell Range, which borders 
the natal valley of the rivers further south. But 
the master summits of the Selkirks — a system 
" more massive than the Rockies . . . whose . . . 
assemblage of peaks show no arrangement along 
definite lines," are involved in a stupendous whirl- 
pool that seethes above the railway and carries in 
its eddies immense glaciers, and gorges narrow 
and large of terrific depth. 

East of the inter-mountain trench of the Colum- 
bia — Kootenay Valley the Rockies rise tier on 
tier above lesser ranges, and above profound val- 
leys, which have been designated by an imagina- 
tive writer, " inverted elevations." 

The North American Cordillera 1 is a collocation 
of granite giants corresponding to the Andes of 

i See quotation from Outram, under " Mountaineering," 
Chapter XIII. 

425 



426 THE TOURIST'S NORTHWEST 

the southern continent, and trending parallel with 
the coast as far north as the Arctic regions. The 
Building of the Mountains is lucidly expounded 
in a " Guide to the Geology of the Canadian Na- 
tional Parks," published by the Dominion Gov- 
ernment. 

" Since no one has seen mountain ranges in 
actual process of formation the manner in which 
they are built must be deduced from a study of 
their structure. 

" The Rocky Mountains and the Selkirks along 
the railway lines are built out of thick series of 
sedimentary strata which must have been laid 
down originally one on top of the other in the 
sea in a horizontal or approximately horizontal 
attitude. The first step in the formation of 
the mountains then was the accumulation of these 
sediments in a sea which covered the present site 
of the mountains, and the floor of which was 
gradually subsiding. The position of this sea 
was determined as far back as the Cambrian pe- 
riod, and from that time down to the end of Cre- 
taceous it received sedimentary material mainly 
from a land area on the west until a thickness of 
over 50,000 feet of material was laid down and 
afterwards consolidated into rock. 

M The second stage in the building of the moun- 
tains was the upheaval of this thick mass of strata 
into a series of parallel folds striking slightly 
west of north. This was produced by lateral 
compression directed from the Pacific side and 
acting very slowly but with enormous force. As 
the compressing force increased, the folds were 
arched higher and became more tightly crowded 
together until they were either overturned, or 
broken and thrust one over the other towards the 



REVELSTOKE TO CALGARY 427 

east. The greatest disturbance in the strata of 
the Rocky Mountains appears to be in the east- 
ern ranges and as one goes eastward to the prai- 
ries this disturbance decreases until it dies out 
altogether. 

" The elevation of the Rockies is believed to have 
taken place at the beginning of the Tertiary pe- 
riod. Its subsequent history is a record of ero- 
sion and denudation. 

" The mountains are not now in the shape that 
they would have been left if upheaval had been the 
only agent concerned in their formation. But it 
is evident that their ridges, peaks, and valleys 
have been carved out of other forms by the agen- 
cies of denudation. 

" As upheaval is a slow process, denudation 
must have begun its work as soon as the crests of 
the folds made their appearance above the sea, so 
that the mountains probably never had the full 
height which the strata, if free from denudation, 
would have given them. 

" The agents of denudation are running water, 
frost, wind and glaciers, and by these the ridges 
are carved into various shapes, valleys eroded out, 
and a general destruction of the ranges is carried 
out. For a long time the effect of denudation is 
to increase the ruggedness of the mountains and 
this is the stage at which the history of the Rocky 
Mountains now is. As time goes on however they 
will be worn lower and lower until they are eventu- 
ally reduced to the level of the plains. Geologic- 
ally speaking the wearing down of a mountain 
range to the level of the plain takes place in a 
comparatively short time, but from a human point 
of view the process is exceedingly slow. 

" During the Glacial period the Canadian Cor- 



428 THE TOURIST'S NORTHWEST 

dillera is believed to have been covered by an ice 
cap much as that which covers Greenland or the 
Antarctic continent at the present day. Through 
this ice cap only the higher peaks of the moun- 
tain ranges projected. The evidence that has 
been obtained by a study of the record left by 
this ice cap shows that it extended from the 48th 
to the 63rd parallels of latitude or a distance of 
about 1200 miles, and covered the region from 
the Rockies to the Coast Range. . . . 

" Elevation of the whole Canadian Cordilleran 
region above the level that it now has is believed 
to have been one of the causes at least which 
brought on the conditions of a glacial period. • . . 
Whatever the cause the Canadian Cordillera ap- 
pears to have become at this time the condenser 
of the moisture from the Pacific. Precipitation 
occurred upon it mainly in the form of snow and 
was so much in excess of the influence of the heat 
of the summer that the snow was not melted, but 
accumulated from year to year. Glaciers prob- 
ably formed first in the higher mountains of the 
Coast Range, but eventually almost the whole of 
the region became covered and buried beneath 
glacier ice. The direction of the ice flow was first 
along the valleys, but at a later date when the 
Cordillera became completely buried, a general 
movement northward as well as southward was 
started from a central point about the head 
waters of the Stikine and Skeena rivers. . . . 

i6 Notwithstanding its great size the main ice 
cap, because of its slow rate of movement, was 
not as active an agent for the erosion of the rocks 
as the more swiftly moving valley glaciers. It 
was however active enough to erode and carry 



REVELSTOKE TO CALGARY 429 

away the decomposed and disintegrated surface of 
the bed rock and deposit this material on its outer 
edges as terminal moraines. Its traces are to be 
seen in the rounding, smoothing, and striation of 
rock knobs and a general levelling of the surface, 
by erosion as well as by filling up of hollows and 
irregularities. 

" The valley glaciers on the other hand were 
more active as eroding agents, both because of 
their more rapid movement and their occupying 
lines of more concentrated flow. By the aid of 
rock fragments carried along the bottom of the 
glaciers they were able to broaden and deepen to 
valleys, and by this means to produce hanging 
valleys . . . and to gouge out the cirques which 
are now occupied by those many beautiful rock- 
bound lakes so common throughout the Cor- 
dillera. . . . 

" The present-day glaciers, which lie at the head 
of many of the valleys, both in the Rockies and 
the Selkirks, are merely the shrunken remnants 
of the greater glaciers of the Glacial period. . . . 

" Not a great deal has been done since the final 
disappearance of the ice sheet to modify the shape 
of the land surface as left by it. The most strik- 
ing changes have been effected by the rivers in cut- 
ting down their valleys through the glacial de- 
posits left in them on the retreat of the ice." 

Revelstoke — Glacier. i 

At Albert Canyon, we come upon what are said 
to be the oldest rocks of the whole Canadian sys- 
tem. The Illecillewaet River, through whose 
valley the ascent of the Selkirks is begun from 
Revelstoke, breaks apart a barrier at a place 20 



430 THE TOURIST'S NORTHWEST 

miles east, and pours with the impetuosity of a 
freshet far below the over-hanging platform at 
which the train makes pause. 

Sir Donald (10,808 ft.) crowns the pageant of 
the " many-headed multitude " that waits above 
Ross Peak. By this galaxy we gauge what lies 
beyond. With dexterous loops and double loops 
the road forges up the slope and 20 miles east of 
Albert Canyon arrives at Glacier (4086 ft.). 

At the bottom of a bewildering basin there is 
barely room for the track, the rambling hotel, and 
a green grass plot with fountains of glacial spray. 
A belt of trees dips to the east. Above it, so near 
that the breath of the ice comes cold, is the prod- 
igious terrace of the Great Glacier, spread out 
below Sir Donald with its ridge against the clouds. 
The Childs and Miles Glaciers near Cordova, 
Alaska, are the only other ice tongues of im- 
portance that approach so near to a North Amer- 
ican railway. To the Childs Glacier a shot can 
be fired from the car window. To the snout of 
the Illecillewaet, a trail less than two miles long 
leads from the hotel door. 

On the path, changing views unfold of the high- 
wrought pinnacles which mark the brim of the 
basin — Sir Donald, " a superb prism shooting its 
slender apex far above all its royal mates," Uto 
of the sheer crest, Eagle, Avalanche and Mac- 
Donald toward the north, Mt. Cheops across the 
valley below the ragged cohort of the Hermit 
Range, of which Rogers (10,536 ft.) is chief, and 
Mt. Abbott, the green background of the inn. 

The retreat of the glacier from its valley has 
since 1887 been recorded with more or less regu- 
larity; likewise the varying ratio of its flow. 






REVELSTOKE TO CALGARY 431 

Miss Mary Vaux of Philadelphia and her brothers 
George Vaux, Jr., and the late William Vaux, 
prepared a great part of the scientific data now 
available on the subject. It is asserted that a 
large rock to the left of the trail was as recently 
as 1899 "firmly imbedded in the glacier." Be- 
tween August, 1890, and August, 1898, " the total 
amount of this retreat up the valley had been 452 
feet, or an average of 56 feet per year. During 
the succeeding five years, ending in 1903, the aver- 
age recession per year was about 35 feet. Then 
a marked change occurred, for till August, 1904, 
the recession was reduced to about five feet and 
for 1905 the amount was only about two and one- 
half feet. Since then the recession has varied 
from year to year, that for the year ending in 
August, 1913, having again increased to about 
seventy-four feet. The future of this glacier 
tongue will be observed with much interest. Pre- 
dictions as to its future action seem quite im- 
possible." 

An instructive day may be spent upon the ice in 
the company of the Swiss guide attached to the 
hotel, studying " tables " and seracs, the course 
of moraines, 2 and other glacial manifesta- 
tions. 

Mt. Sir Donald is climbed several times a season 
with and without guides. Leroy Jeffers of New 
York, a mountaineer with dozens of ascents to his 
credit in the United States and Canada, holds the 
hour record for the climb to Sir Donald's apex 
and back. In the year 1914, Mr. Jeffers left 
Glacier House at two on a summer morning, 

2 In this connection read the exposition on glaciers quoted 
from Dr. Coleman in Chapter XI. 



432 THE TOURIST'S NORTHWEST 

climbed by the northwest face to the summit in 
seven hours, and returned to the hotel in time for 
a one o'clock luncheon. 

Howard Palmer, in the chapter, " Mount Sir 
Donald and its Neighbors," relates in his Moun- 
taineering and Exploration in the Selkirk s the es- 
sential features of the routes of ascent. By the 
northwesterly arete these are the rock conditions 
near the top as described by this indomitable and 
gifted climber. 

" Instead of more or less well-defined ledges, the 
face now presented an array of projecting rocky 
points. Our advance, therefore, resolved itself 
into a series of strides from one protuberance to 
another. As a counter-irritant to the possibly 
disconcerting effect of a glance into the abyss 
below, the deus ex machina had craftily fashioned 
the only handholds (the next higher set of points) 
at the awkward level of one's own head, so that 
our gymnastics as we worked our way across out 
onto the face, must have strongly resembled a 
cross between the antics of a monkey, swinging 
from branch to branch in a tropical forest, and 
the motions of a man getting over a stream on 
stepping-stones. Fortunately the rocks were not 
icy, although at this altitude they were well 
sugared with snow. A particularly precarious 
bit of work occurred at the end of the traverse, 
when it became necessary to strike directly up- 
ward towards the ridge. . . . Feuz had to make 
repeated trials before he could locate a satisfac- 
tory route." 

The summit was reached " eight hours from the 
col." The view from the crow's nest of Sir Don- 
ald, as photographed by Palmer, embraces a roll- 
ing sea of argent billows to the limits of the range, 






REVELSTOKE TO CALGARY 433 

and afar among the Purcells and the Rockies. 
Miles to the north, just under the great curve of 
the Columbia, Mt. Sir Sandford (11,600 ft.), 
King of the Selkirks, rules alone. " The most 
prominent single feature of the prospect," says 
the author, " is easily the Illecillewaet neve with 
its ten square miles of shining unbroken snow, 
and shattered ice stream, crawling ponderously 
into the valley." 

Besides the pony trail to the Great Glacier, other 
paths have been built to points comparatively 
near-by in this dazzling 470-acre Dominion park. 
Half a day is consumed in the saddle on the 
Asulkan Glacier trail with its super-views of prec- 
ipice and snow monarchs above a wooded wild- 
flower valley. One of the eminent outlooks of the 
Selkirks is obtained from Asulkan Pass (7700 
ft.), which is reached without great difficulty on 
horse-back, but entails several hours' climbing. 

The finest field of view accessible from Glacier 
by trail is at Roger's Pass, on the Selkirk Divide. 
A trip much simpler, but with its special reward, 
is made in three hours to Cascade Summerhouse 
and back. From the hotel, the pavilion and 
near-by cataract are visible a thousand feet above 
against the flank of Mt. Avalanche. The trav- 
eller who breaks the continental journey at Gla- 
cier will need a week of sunny days (a boon not 
often granted in the storm-ridden Selkirks) to 
achieve even the neighbouring " primer trips," as 
they are termed by an alpine steeple- jack disdain- 
ful of tourist excursions. 

The Nakimu Caves of Glacier Dominion Park, 
discovered a dozen years ago by a Revelstoke 
hunter, comprise a series of subterranean tunnels 
on the north slope of Mt. Cheops above the valley 



434 THE TOURIST'S NORTHWEST 

of the Cougar, a vale pre-eminently typical of the 
Selkirks " in scenery, geology, natural history and 
botany." The caves are distant but 5 miles from 
the hotel by carriage-road and saddle trail. For 
their extent, origin, architecture and decoration 
they are each year the object of increasing inter- 
est. The three main arteries are the Gopher 
Bridge Series, the Mill Bridge Series and the 
Gorge Series. The first-named group of under- 
ground corridors is formed by Cougar Creek drop- 
ping, like a lesser Guadiana, through a hole in 
the earth, to emerge some distance further on from 
a secret errand 30 feet below the surface of the val- 
ley. A. O. Wheeler, topographer and chronicler 
of the Selkirks, 3 and explorer of the caves, de- 
scribes in a vivid way his pioneer expedition into 
this series of thoroughfares by the light of 
acetylene bicycle lamps and an ignited magnesium 
wire. 

"... Standing on a narrow ledge that over- 
hangs a black abyss, the eye is first drawn by a 
subterranean waterfall heard roaring immediately 
on the left. It appears to pour from a dark 
opening above it. Below, between black walls of 
rock, may be seen the foam-flecked torrent hurt- 
ling down the incline until lost in dense shadows. 
Overhead, fantastic spurs and shapes reach out 
into the blackness and the entire surroundings are 
so weird and uncanny that it is easy to imagine 
Dante seated upon one of these spurs deriving 
impressions for his inferno. As the brilliant light 
goes out the thick darkness makes itself felt, and 

3 See The Selkirk Range, published by the Department of 
the Interior, Ottawa, and The Selkirk Mountains, a Guide 
for Mountain Pilgrims and Climbers, published by the Stovel 
Company, Winnipeg, Man. 



REVELSTOKE TO CALGARY 435 

instinctively you feel to see if Charon is not stand- 
ing beside you. This subterranean stream, with 
its unearthly surroundings, is somewhat sug- 
gestive of the Styx, and incidentally supplied the 
name i Avernus ' for the cavern of the waterfall." 

A second time this creek rampant of haunting 
habits vanishes from above ground to bore a way 
through the earth, but at this stage a depth three 
times greater than that of the upper series is at- 
tained. 

"... Cougar Creek in its flow beneath Mill 
bridge passes through the Auditorium, and as it 
falls 75 feet in a distance of 200 feet, from its 
entrance beneath Mill bridge to the Auditorium, 
the chamber is replete with its roar. . . . Faint 
daylight enters through the passageway of the 
waters and serves to make the surroundings look 
dim and mysterious. The frosts of winter also 
reach this spot, and in the spring stalactites and 
stalagmites, formed of huge icicles, are seen in 
columnar groups surrounding the dashing waters 
and extending some distance into the chamber 
itself. In this particular spot disintegration has 
created much havoc and the walls no longer show 
the marks of water erosion, while the floor is 
heaped with rock debris fallen from the ceiling. 
The passageway, however, that connects it with 
the surface is still intact as a sample of the power 
of water erosion. It is composed of a series of 
potholes, connected one with the other by short 
narrow passages. 

"... The exit of Cougar Creek from Mill 
bridge takes place at the bottom of a narrow 
crack, or gorge, running at right angles to the 
general direction of the stream. The Gorge is 
300 feet in length, about 50 feet wide, and is 



436 THE TOURIST'S NORTHWEST 

spanned by two natural rock bridges. ... On 
emerging from its subterranean course beneath 
Mill bridge, the creek flows through the Gorge 
80 feet below the floor of the valley. At the 
lower or north end is the opening that leads to 
the largest and most interesting of the series of 
passageways forming the Nakimu Caves. The 
Gorge forms a very striking feature of the ex- 
ternal scenery, and several places are accessible 
from which views may be had into its depths that 
are wild and impressive in the extreme. The 
opening is a dome-shaped break in the wall form- 
ing the north end. Into this the stream tumbles 
with wild fury over a confusion of huge fragments 
of rock piled up in the passageway. It creates 
leaps and falls and a dissemination of spray that 
makes the opening to the outer w T orld, as seen 
from below, appear through a luminous mist. 
The aperture is some thirty feet wide and about 
the same height." 

Surrounded by eerie echoing walls are the cham- 
bers described by their explorers as the Dropping 
Cave, the Witches' Ball-room, the Pit, the Marble- 
way, the Art Gallery, the Gimlet, the Carbonate 
Grotto, " hung with rock shelves, and spotted 
with lime incrustations," the Judgment Hall, the 
White Grotto, and the Bridal Chamber, so named 
for " the purity of its lime draperies and the 
general beauty of its floral decorations." 

Concerning the age of the caves, Mr. W. S. 
Ayres, the engineer commissioned by the Do- 
minion to report on the phenomena, believes the 
marble formations belong to the Devonian period, 
and estimates that 88,000 years have so far been 
consumed in eroding the channels. 

C. H. Deutschman, discoverer of the " Grum- 



REVELSTOKE TO CALGARY 437 

bling Caves," and an adventurer credited with an 
important share in their development, is custodian 
of the natural wonder, and may be addressed at 
Glacier, B. C, concerning camping arrangements 
at the Government cabin and mountain excursions 
north of the railway, of which the grandest is the 
one to Baloo Pass. 

Glacier — Golden. 

The railway leaves the path of the Illecillewaet 
River at Glacier. The original route follows 
Bear Creek and surmounts the range by Roger's 
Pass. Look well upon the visage of Tupper and 
MacDonald, you who travel this road before 1917, 
and upon the hooded phalanx arrayed on north 
and south. Print deep this memory of titan walls 
that narrow the east gate of the Selkirks, and the 
acute slopes of green valleys in shine and shadow 
beneath glittering glaciers. . . . These words will 
not long be written when an engineers' tour de 
force will rob the Selkirk journey of its excelling 
view. With the economical object of eliminating 
pusher engines, snow ploughs and miles of snow 
sheds, and reducing the length and degree of maxi- 
mum grade, the railway is expending $12,000,000 
to lay a double track from the loop near Glacier 
down an incline for 5 miles through the interior 
of MacDonald, hundreds of feet below the sum- 
mit track, and up the valley to Six Mile Creek. 
The bore is said to exceed by three-fourths of a 
mile the longest existing tunnel in America. It 
will decrease the summit elevation of the line's 
Selkirk division from 4330 feet to 3791 feet, and 
shorten the route four and a half miles. " In 
short," says an engineering magazine, " one of 
the most costly sections of the whole system, from 



438 THE TOURIST'S NORTHWEST 

an operating point of view, will be entirely elimi- 
nated." But a mere tourist may be allowed his 
little plaint. 

However, backward views will inspire as the train 
issues from the portal and climbs by the Beaver 
River across a succession of steep-bedded creeks 
— Stony, Surprise, Cedar, Mountain, all pitch- 
ing down the parapet of the Hermit Range to 
meet the transverse stream. 

At Beavermouth we again greet the Columbia, 
confined here by the lower rungs of the Selkirks 
and the main range in a cribbed and cabined 
passage, whose eastward opening swings wide 
upon the Rockies. The station of Beavermouth 
is the furthest to the north of any on the Cana- 
dian Pacific line. The direction from here to 
Golden is southward, while for nearly 400 miles 
the trend has been toward the north. 

The chalets at Edelweiss are as Swiss as the 
name. For years Canadian Pacific guides from 
the little kingdom of mountaineers returned each 
year to their villages across the water, but now, 
due to the railway's provision, they form a con- 
tented colony with their families among pleasant 
acres a mile west of Golden. 

Golden is at the meeting of the Kicking Horse 
River with the Columbia. Sportsmen know it as 
an outfitting base for big game hunting. Tour- 
ists alight here who are going by the Kootenay 
Central branch through the " Columbia trench " 
to Lake Windermere and the Crow's Nest line. 

For route, Golden -Field see after the following heading. 

The Windermere Valley. 

The excursion south of the main line to Lake 
Windermere was until late years made exclu- 






REVELSTOKE TO CALGARY 439 

sively by river steamer. A train now leaves Golden 
on Mountain Time twice a week (Tuesday and 
Friday) for Athalmer station, where it arrives in 
less than five hours. A Government motor-road 
also runs the length of the valley. 

Broad green flats are surmounted on both' sides 
of the Columbia's lagoon-like channel by the foot 
ranges of the two great mountain chains, which 
climb to immensely high summits. The cham- 
pions of the Purcell Range cluster beyond the 
west bank, Bruce, Farnham, Jumbo, Delphine, are 
all over 11,000 feet in altitude above the sea, and 
more than 8000 feet above the river. The scen- 
ery is especially remarkable for its contrast be- 
tween these silvery crests, the lazy stream in its 
winding, tranquil bed, and the well stocked 
ranches which occupy shore and hillside. The 
railway company has cleared the land about new 
townsites and offers settlers irrigated fruit farms 
in ten-acre blocks ready for planting. 

Windermere Lake is a body of water ten miles 
long and two miles wide, which is joined with 
Upper Columbia Lake, the actual source of the 
river. At the north end of Windermere is Athal- 
mer station with a near-by hotel where sportsmen 
and tourists meet. From Invermere there is a 
hunting trail up Toby Creek to Earl Grey Pass, 
under Mt. Gleason (10,537 ft.), and through the 
verdant canyon of Hamill Creek to the head of 
Kootenay Lake. Iron Mountain, back of Inver- 
mere, is reached by the interesting Horse Thief 
trail. A historic relic at Windermere, visited by 
many who come through the valle}^, is the grass- 
grown trench of Upper Kootenay House, erected 
in 1810 by David Thompson, explorer of the 
river. 



440 THE TOURIST'S NORTHWEST 

The lately built motorway from Windermere to 
Banff penetrates the mountains by way of Sin- 
clair Hot Springs and Sinclair Creek, where the 
road is forced between bright-coloured cliffs, 100 
feet high. At Sinclair Pass, streams drain both 
east and west. The valleys of the Columbia and 
the Kootenay are visible from the ridge (4850 
ft.). Descending the east slope, the Kootenay is 
followed for 1& miles. North of this point is 
the Ottertail Range where it has its source. Past 
the mouth of Simpson River and Tokum Creek 
the ascent is made to Vermilion Pass (5650 ft.) 
through the canyon of Vermilion River. Toward 
the south is a trilogy of 10,000-foot mountains, 
of which Ball (10,825 ft.) is the most conspicu- 
ous. This road of many wonders meets the rail- 
way below Castle Mountain and skirting the Ver- 
milion Lakes arrives at Banff, a day's journey 
from the Columbia River. 

The railway, Golden — Athalmer — Colv alii (166 
m.), continues south through the sunny Kootenay 
Valley. At Canal Flats near Upper Columbia 
Lake, the river comes in from the north, flows 
within a mile and a half of the Columbia (which 
after hundreds of miles of divergent journeying 
it joins near the foot of the Arrow Lakes), and 
at Colvalli is crossed by the Crow's Nest line. 4 

Either by rail or excellent highroad the journey 
from Windermere Lake may proceed to Macleod 
and Calgary, or to Cranbrook, west of Colvalli, 
from which point the West Kootenay District is 
accessible by the southern railway and steamer 
route. 

4 See description following " Revelstoke," Chapter XVI. 



REVELSTOKE TO CALGARY 441 

Golden — Field. 

The canyon of the Kicking Horse, an expressive 
name whose origin has nothing to do with the 
river's tumultuous action, forms a resonant corri- 
dor for the passage of the rails between the Van 
Home and Beaverfoot Mountains. Beyond Pal- 
liser the road coils about Mt. Hunter and reaches 
the plinth of the splendid Ottertail group, whose 
capsheaf is the triple-spired Goodsir (11,676 ft.). 
Mt. Chancellor and Mt. Vaux are in the immediate 
foreground to the south. 

Nearing Field the valley broadens out, and 
stately vistas open on the left from the Van Home 
slopes to the basin of the President Range, in 
which is hidden Emerald Lake. The Kicking 
Horse flows over a flat bed that below the hamlet 
is in summer but sparsely covered, and may in 
some seasons be followed a good distance on foot. 
Above this level floor of sand and drift-wood and 
the vacillating stream which changes its course 
every year, lifts the rock of Mt. Stephen (10,520 
ft.), colossal in stature and untrammelled about 
the base with inferior heights to diminish the 
effect of its ponderous soaring. With Mt. 
Stephen rising from its back yard, the hotel, 
grandmother of the mountain inns, looks directly 
across to Mts. Burgess and Field, each with an 
elevation above the verandah of close on a mile. 
Occasionally goats are seen at evening on 
Burgess. 

Mt. Stephen is the highest peak skirted by the 
rails of the Canadian Pacific. Outram says it is 
" the most climbed mountain in the Canadian 
Switzerland, with Mt. Sir Donald, in the adjacent 
Selkirk Range, an easy second." As mentioned 



442 THE TOURIST'S NORTHWEST 

in the paragraphs on " Mountaineering," Chapter 
XIII, it was first ascended by a member of the 
Dominion Land Survey in 1887. The climb to 
the top and back usually consumes about ten 
hours. 

Travellers arriving at Field in the morning can 
accomplish the drive to Emerald Lake before 
luncheon, and if in haste, return to Field and leave 
early in the afternoon for Yoho Valley. The 
night express leaves at a convenient hour, going 
both east and west. But it is advisable to spend 
at least a night at Field or Emerald Lake, or in 
the Yoho Valley camp. One cannot too highly 
extol the wonder of these trips. The Yoho drive 
is longer and more fearsome, but the excursion to 
Emerald Lake is after its own kind equally fine, 
and neither trip should be omitted from the trans- 
continental itinerary. 5 

The road to the Yoho Valley (22 m. return; 
stage fare, $2.50) crosses the bridge below the 
station and turning up the Kicking Horse, passes 
beneath a rocky wall heavily overlaid with dead- 
fall, moss and boulders. A little way up-stream 
Stephen's glacier comes into view, and the turrets 
of Cathedral Mountain, which throughout most 
of the drive are seen at one or another angle. 
The shacks of a galena mine grasp the precarious 
ledges of Mt. Stephen, and the chutes are also 
visible down which the ore is sent. The river in- 
creases in turbulence, and is chalky-white from 
glacial deposits. At the 5-mile post the carriage- 

s The tariff of rides and drives from the C. P. R. stations 
is given in detail in the railway pamphlet, " Resorts in the 
Canadian Rockies," and in the Brewster folders. The rates 
vary according to the road, the means of conveyance and 
the number in the party, and are never exorbitant. 



REVELSTOKE TO CALGARY 443 

road overlooks the joining of the Kicking Horse 
and the Yoho, one as mad as the other. 

From the maelstrom of the rivers the way leads 
north beside the Yoho, which for a great part of 
its plunging course is chafed by encumbering 
rocks into a very fury of leaps and falls. 

As the road begins a sharp ascent, the chasm 
deepens. Tremendous cliffs are on either side. 
The roar of the river rumbles through the gorge 
like the bellow of a diapason. Walls are so sheer 
that to lay a path wide enough for wheels a ledge 
has been artificially constructed, and as this 
doubles back and forth to reach a higher grade 
imperial vistas are glimpsed ahead and in retro- 
spect. At the top of the thrilling spiral the river 
has dropped out of sight, and one alights and 
descends a by-path to get a far-down view of it. 

About 8 miles from Field the scene has so 
changed in character that meadow-banks of wild 
forget-me-nots and crimson paint-brush, white 
violets, columbine, yellow daisies and purple asters 
tempt one to stray afield. If a copy of Mrs. 
Henshaw's book on the mountain flora of Canada 
is at hand, a most delightful hour may be spent 
in this natural garden studying the flowers she 
so beautifully illustrates and explains. 

Toward the end of the drive, the road is again 
forced near the brim of the river's abyss. Spruce 
trees 80 to 100 feet tall rise straight as pillars 
and make a dark alley for the carriage. Fre- 
quently white peaks show above the forest spires. 
Brooks race under culverts to meet the Yoho, and 
in June and July veins on the mountain sides are 
streaked with heavy lines of melted snow. 

The Takakkaw ("It is Wonderful") Cascade 
is the glory of the valley. In three main descents 



444 THE TOURIST'S NORTHWEST 

it falls 1100 feet from the forefoot of Daly Gla- 
cier. Spray rises like smoke out of the boiling 
caverns, and strews the side of the yellowish rock 
with little streams. By walking over a rustic 
bridge and crossing a rather rough, though level 
space, one can pay homage at the very foot of the 
torrent. 

The best view of its glacial source is from the 
trail behind the stationary camp, which is most 
advantageously situated facing the falls. 

Mountaineers use the camp as a base for ex- 
peditions. Excursionists stay a night here who 
are making the three-day or two-day carriage and 
pony trip via Emerald Lake and the Valley from 
Field, whose total cost for transportation and 
living expenses is about $7 a day per person. 
Guides are not required, but may be secured at 
Field. A smaller camp is situated at the upper 
end of the valley. 

The carriage road extends a mile beyond the 
bridge of the falls. The drive should by all 
means be continued to the end for the view of 
Yoho Glacier, enthroned 8 miles beyond at the 
head of the valley, and for the rainbow on Takak- 
kaw, if it is afternoon. The glacier, with its re- 
markable arch, and Twin Falls, whose name de- 
scribes them, must be visited by trail. 

On the way to Emerald Lake (14 m. return; 
stage fare, $2) a short detour reveals the Kick- 
ing Horse performing characteristic caracoles in 
an impeded channel. Beneath the regal gaze of 
Mt. Stephen it most unceremoniously dips be- 
neath a flinty arch and tumbles among pot-holes 
to another level — "a fine display of lashing 
spray and turbulent disorder." The rapids and 
the Natural Bridge with up-reared mountain 



REVELSTOKE TO CALGARY 445 

background would be a head-line feature in any 
region but this munificent Northwest. Here it is 
suggested as a casual side trip. 

" Snow-peak Avenue " is a long spruce road 
with mountains at each end. By it one comes in 
an hour to a lake girt by a ring of mountains — 
a jewel dropped in a bowl with jagged nacreous 
rim. Early in the summer, avalanches plunge with 
loud report from the slopes and falling into the 
lake pale the customarily deep hue of the water. 

At the back of the Chalet are Mt. Burgess and 
Mt. Field, which we see here from the north. Be- 
tween Burgess and Wapta is the superb vantage- 
point of Burgess Pass, from which all the con- 
spicuous units of the clustering ranges can be 
identified. Michael Peak is above the trail to 
Yoho Pass. The latter joins the saddle route 
from Field over Burgess Pass to the head of Yoho 
Valley. To the left of Emerald Lake Chalet are 
the majestic shapes named President (10,287 ft.) 
and Vice President (10,049 ft.) which with Em- 
erald Peak complete the gorgeous circle. 

There are those who prefer the broader field of 
vision at Emerald Lake to the flawless but re- 
stricted prospect at Lake Louise. As a place to 
stay Emerald Lake is more agreeable because, 
selfish reason, fewer people come here, and the 
precious vistas of the lake are more intrinsically 
one's own. 

The Ottertail Road along the grass-grown bed 
of a former C. P. R. grade west of Field brings 
one into intimate relation with flower patches, 
rangers' cabins, busybody streams, scurrying 
wild things — within the enveloping splendour of 
the steepled Ottertail Range and the purplish, 
burned-over slopes of the Van Home summits. 



446 THE TOURIST'S NORTHWEST 

W. D. Wilcox, F. K. G. S., author of The Rock- 
ies of Canada, names Lake O'Hara " in all the 
mountain wilderness the most complete picture of 
natural beauty. To me," he says, " the domi- 
nant impression at O'Hara Lake is tranquillity 
and peace. Secluded in a deep pocket of the 
mountains, an almost perpetual calm prevails, 
the wind when it blows is gentle, and even the 
sound of falling rock and crashing avalanche is 
rare. The stream, beside whose brawling course 
you have ascended the valley, yields finally to this 
persistent spell and, at the vestibule of one of the 
finest spots in all Nature's realm, becomes hushed 
in a shallow pool. . . . 

" Of all the finer lakes O'Hara presents the 
greatest variety of pleasing views," asserts Mr. 
Wilcox, and describes it in mid-summer haze and 
angry storm. A short walk from the meadow 
where Colonel O'Hara first camped in 1887, " lies 
McArthur Lake. Nearly two miles long, it is 
one of the largest lakes in the mountains at such 
high altitude, which is approximately 7300 feet 
above sea level. There are absolutely no trees or 
shrubs in the valley where lies the lake, so that 
the effect is thoroughly Arctic. A glacier enters 
the water at the upper end and even till the end 
of July or later, there are usually cakes of ice 
drifting over the lake. The water is exceedingly 
clear, and there is no apparent difference between 
its colour and that of the sky." 

Pony trails are ascended from both Field and 
Lake Louise to reach green O'Hara Lake and blue 
Lake McArthur just under the Divide south of 
Hector. Some who make the trip go to Hector 
by rail and continue to the lakes by ponies which 
have been despatched in advance. Cataract 



REVELSTOKE TO CALGARY 447 

Brook, headwater of the Kicking Horse, is fol- 
lowed from the railway. There are good camp- 
ing-grounds both below and above O'Hara. 
From either side the Great Divide the excursion 
ordinarily consumes about three days. 

Field — Lake Louise. 

The heroic breadth of the scene about Field is 
best appreciated as the railway executes a series 
of distracting evolutions in climbing from river 
base to the garret of the continent. By spiral 
tunnels, and gigantic twistings and crossings that 
defy all points of the compass, a fifty per cent, 
grade reduction has recently been achieved. 
Twice the train turns completely around inside 
two different mountains, four times it passes over 
bridges, and on three road beds at different ele- 
vations it makes its way to the summit. 

Hector, which has its name from one of the ex- 
plorers of the Canadian Pacific route, and the first 
president of the company, is 5199 feet up in the 
world on the water-parting of the chain. An 
arch of boughs announces the Great Divide. Im- 
mediately we scan the rather level tract for a 
stream to give visible proof that here the fate of 
waters is decided. And suddenly, near Stephen, 
some one discovers twin rills divorced by the 
continental tilt turning in opposite directions. 
Says a parson mountaineer (it is surprising how 
many parsons have been eminent mountaineers), 
" A fraction of an inch to one side or the other 
at this ' parting of the ways ' determines the 
future course of many a little drop ; thousands of 
miles sum up the distance of their goals. A mo- 
ment in the balance, the slightest swerve, an influ- 



448 THE TOURIST'S NORTHWEST 

ence almost imperceptible, and the decision is 
irrevocable." 

The Lakes in the Clouds are three. The first is 
Lake Louise, at an elevation of 5645 feet. First 
in its beauty, it is a matter for congratulation that 
it is also the easiest to come to. A citified tram 
ascends from the railway platform through three 
miles of deer forest, over which hover the ghostly 
crowns of Fairview and Temple. At the top of 
the road, a woodland curtain suddenly drawn 
shows us what we have climbed to see — a pool 
with the hues of turquoise in its matrix, a wall of 
white, a half-moon of cliffs that reflect evanescent 
rose-brown scarfs across the mirror — Lake 
Louise! Were a scene painter gifted with an 
Urban sense of line and a Leonard Davis knowl- 
edge of alpine colour commanded to do a stage set, 
he could not surpass the symmetry and immacu- 
late tints of this tableau. The white back-drop 
is the Victoria Glacier. High tree-covered scarps 
enclose it at the base but spread apart to give a 
wide view on the embankment of ice. Where the 
hotel is placed, directly facing the glacier across 
the round dream-lake, there is room on the shore 
for a few dark pencilled evergreens, an emerald 
lawn, and many paths with borders of Iceland 
poppies that add to the colourful picture their 
dyes of lemon and orange. 

The hotel buildings are of conglomerate archi- 
tecture. The older of two main sections is in the 
style of a country inn. A new structure is of 
concrete with towers somewhat Spanish in mode, 
and quite incongruous in this place. The chalets 
standing a little apart offer a homely refuge from 
the surge of new arrivals in the larger buildings, 




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REVELSTOKE TO CALGARY 449 

where lounge and sun parlour, porch and recrea- 
tion salon resound all day with chattering praises 
of the lake. The total capacity of the hotel is 
about six hundred. Many visitors, whose sched- 
ule is fixed, throng up the mountain-side, hastily 
impress the view, row or walk around the shore to 
look on Mt. Lefroy abutting Victoria, take the 
drive to Moraine Lake or follow the breath- 
shortening trail to Louise's sister pools, and be- 
fore night-fall, or early in the morning, are off to 
Banff or Field. 

The road to Moraine Lake in the Valley of the 
Ten Peaks is the only one that extends from Lake 
Louise to the realm beyond its walls, except the 
wagon-road that was until recently the sole means 
of access from the station. But of trails there are 
almost as many as there are passes and valleys 
among the mountains of this immediate region. 

Stages leave twice a day for Moraine Lake 
(fare, $2.50). The road for the first part 
of the 9 miles goes up and down between tall trees 
that limit the outlook to narrow vistas directly 
ahead or behind. A far finer way to reach the 
same goal is by pony trail to Saddleback, with its 
supreme pictures near at hand and far down the 
Bow Valley, thence through Paradise Valley with 
a detour to one of the most remarkable of all 
waterfalls, the " Giants' Steps," and so around the 
slopes of Mt. Temple (11,626 ft.) and beneath 
the eaves of other two-mile summits to the ten- 
towered rampart, whose melting snows feed the 
oval lake at its base. 

The carriage road, 6000 feet below Temple's 
" gabled top," emerges at last from a screening 
forest of gloomy spruce to run out on a stunning 
estrade, which surveys the Bow River's high- 



450 THE TOURIST'S NORTHWEST 

sentinelled valley, and gives an uninterrupted look- 
off to the heights that shut in Banff. The wheels 
follow what is in effect a cliff with towering tree- 
less bulk on one hand, and a spacious gorge be- 
low. A marmot whistles from his rock, gophers 
pop in and out of their holes, a rabbit runs before 
the horses' feet, and " last week," the driver from 
Ayrshire tells you, a bear crossed with leisurely 
amble this identical place. 

The Valley of the Peaks, at the foot of a long 
incline of broken stone, is as depressingly formid- 
able a work-shop of Nature as the Rockies can 
show. The debris of glacial carving, heaped in 
high knolls at the edge of the lake, " was shattered 
and thrown down many centuries ago by an earth- 
quake, transported for a distance, and rudely 
piled up by a glacier," in the opinion of Mr. Wil- 
cox, whose chronicles and photographs first made 
this region known. Aloft on a sombre precipice 
is a bastion of chiselled-out rock called the Tower 
of Babel. Stretched in a semi-curve from this 
astoundingly realistic formation is the ridged and 
tortured, goat-inhabited wall whose ten incised, 
sky-piercing wedges give the desolate vale its name. 

In the midst of this chill and haunting melan- 
choly there is a little tea-house with tents adjoin- 
ing, where people stay if they are lured by the 
fishing in Moraine Lake or in Consolation Lake, 
sequestered high up under the Tower. From this 
camp trails may also be essayed to Boom Lake, 
to Wenkchemna Lake and Pass, to Larch Valley 
and Sentinel Pass. 

The trails from Lake Louise to Mirror Lake and 
Lake Agnes (called the " Goat's Looking-Glass " 
by the Indians), to the Little Beehive and Mt. St. 
Piran, lead to altitudes exhaustive in their pros- 






REVELSTOKE TO CALGARY 451 

pects, and in some persons productive of mountain 
sickness in its varied and distressing forms. The 
lake furthest up in the clouds is within a few feet 
of 7000 feet elevation. Practise walks and rides 
are advisable before this excursion is taken. 

A Swiss guide will demonstrate glacial forms on 
Victoria, 4 miles distant from the hotel by foot- 
path, or accompany climbers up its flank, or to 
the brow of Lefroy, Aberdeen, the Mitre, es- 
pecially known for its " crag-work," Hungabee, 
Deltaform, Temple, Biddle. Temple was first 
climbed in 1894 by S. E. S. Allen, L. F. Frissell 
and W. D. Wilcox. Collie and Fay made the 
virgin ascent of Victoria three years later. These 
two renowned mountaineers with several compan- 
ions and a Swiss guide reached the apex of Lefroy 
two days before the climb on Mt. Victoria. 
Outram gives a chapter in his book on the Rockies 
to " The Tragedy of Mt. Lefroy " —the accident 
which in August, 1896, resulted in the horrifying 
death of Philip Abbott, a climber of notable skill, 
and a member of the Appalachian Mountain Club 
of Boston. 

A trip recommended by trail guides is the one 
to Ptarmigan Lakes, a net-work of water above 
timber-line 10 miles north of Lake Louise. A 
curiosity of the Ptarmigan Valley is a fossil bed 
of shell-fish. This expedition may be extended to 
the Pipestone River (3 days), where there is ex- 
cellent camping-ground and Cut-throat fishing 
near " Jim " Brewster's ranch. This great range, 
8 miles long and 3 miles wide in the valley, " draws 
up " the mountain where Brewster-bred horses and 
ponies feed. The trail swings on to the Sawback 
Lakes via Panther River and Cascade Creek, and 
by way of Mt. Edith Pass reaches Banff. The 



452 THE TOURIST'S NORTHWEST 

total distance, 110 miles, may be covered in ten 
days. Variations of the same route permit of a 
return to Lake Louise in shorter time. 

The twenty-day excursion from Lake Louise to Jasper 
Park is designated by Jim Simpson and Conrad Kain as 
one of the two or three " big trips " of the Canadian Rock- 
ies. Brief reference has already been made to this rail to 
rail route under " Sports — Mountaineering," Chapter XIII. 
Also to camp equipment and cost of other trips. The Bow 
River is followed to its source among beautiful lakes and 
glaciers. Beyond the boundary of the Rocky Mountains 
Park, goat and sheep may be hunted. Glaciers many square 
miles in extent are sighted in the vicinity of Hector or 
Lower Bow Lake. Over Bow Pass is Waterfall Lake, sur- 
rounded by mountains 10,000 feet high, belted first with 
forest, then with rock, then with snow. All through here 
the Alberta forests are very fine. Descending to the 
Saskatchewan River one of the grandest scenes is at the 
junction of its three forks, 60 miles from Lake Louise sta- 
tion. This is the domain dominated by Mt. Forbes (12,100 
ft.) and the Freshfield group (11,000 ft.). Mt. Lyell 
(11,950 ft.) and Mt. Bryce (11,750 ft.) lie to the north. 
Mt. Columbia (12,500 ft.), crowning the immense ice-fields 
of the Saskatchewan's West Branch, is the second highest 
peak of the Rockies and was first climbed in 1902 by Sir 
James Outram and a Swiss guide. 

The North Branch is the one followed toward Maligne 
Lake. Any one wanting a thrill can swim it on horseback, 
says Simpson. A side trip is made from a camp established 
15 miles up the Branch to Wilcox Pass (8300 ft.), a long 
open stretch of alpland, near which bands of mountain 
sheep are seen in summer. Beyond Nigel Pass, the trail 
party descends the Brazeau River and ascends by Indian 
paths through the big game range about Jonas Creek. 
Across the boundary of Jasper Park a creek shows the way 
to Maligne Lake, 20 miles from Jasper Park station, and 
by many thought to be the most impressively beautiful lake 
in the Rockies. Elevation, 5000 feet; distance from Lake 
Louise, 120 miles. 

Lake Louise — Banff. 

Between Lake Louise station and Banff, the 
mountains withdraw a little distance from the 
valley, and manoeuvre in shining legions about a 



REVELSTOKE TO CALGARY 453 

welcome plain. The aerial spectacle is enhanced, 
and at the same moment a sense of relief pervades 
the traveller, who without a mile's surcease in ten 
hours' riding has been overwhelmed, crowded upon 
by titanic views. Those who have journeyed the 
by-paths from the resorts on the way have in- 
creased by days this mountain orgy. Complete 
enjoyment has been alloyed by the conviction that 
one was not enjoying and appreciating enough. 
There were not hours, perhaps, to sense all that 
the eyes beheld, and dissatisfaction has sometimes 
arisen with individual capacity to gauge the full 
measure of beauty because the scale of sumptuous- 
ness was over-weighed, the feast was too lavish. 

Coming from the west, one arrives in Banff with 
scenic indigestion. With positive relief he sees 
the too-eager summits draw off a little and de- 
crease in height. Mountains there are in plenty 
about Banff, and of most dignified size, but 
glaciers and arrogant walls give way for a river, 
not too restless, to flow among pastures browsed 
by a comforting cow — occupied also by timber 
wolves and grizzlies, but these well caged. The 
first paved avenue seen since leaving Golden opens 
a way through a brisk little town. Curio win- 
dows and cinema theatres, postal card shops, 
vine-covered cottages, galloping, woolly-trousered 
guides, a man with golf clubs running an auto- 
mobile, give a certain satisfaction to our peak- 
surfeited eyes. The village occupies an open 
space at the foot of stolid Cascade Mountain, 
which with capricious Mt. Edith blocks the north 
view. Rundle of the whitened prow and green- 
robed Sulphur Mountain form the arena's main 
east and south bulwark. Standing alone, and in 
such position that it gives a tower view both up 



454 THE TOURIST'S NORTHWEST 

and down the Bow River is Tunnel Mountain, 
almost in the village. 

Banff, irrelevantly named for a Scottish town, 
is the only resort on this side the sea that rivals 
the attractions of Swiss tourist centres. Amid 
an environment of varied and ever satisfying 
grandeur, there is one conspicuously good hotel, 
besides several of medium class, there are superla- 
tive motor-roads, carriage drives, walks and pony 
trails, a river and exquisite lakes for power-boat- 
ing, rowing and canoeing, picturesque facilities 
for tennis and golfing, extra fine fishing and every 
sort of winter sport, luxurious pools for outdoor, 
glass-enclosed, hot and cold baths, opportunities 
for mountain climbing adapted to both novice 
and expert, unsurpassable camping-grounds with- 
in a few miles' radius, big game hunting at no 
great distance, and for one's amusement and edu- 
cation a splendid natural history museum, a 
zoological garden of Rocky Mountain animals and 
birds, and a paddock of bison, moose, deer, sheep 
and goats on the edge of the orderly, thoroughly 
charming little town. 

The crowds which come and go make a stir in the 
streets, and here there is plenty of room for all 
who are abroad. Surreys, stages and tally-hos 
dash back and forth to the hotels. Scarlet- 
jacketed Mounted Police, guides and outfitters in 
typical costume, add a Western note. Range 
ponies trot along the river-bank or up the moun- 
tain roads with happy children on their backs, or, 
escorted by a tanned young " wrangler," file 
knowingly through the streets packed with camp 
equipment. Knickerbockered pedestrians, groups 
of alpinists with stocks and well nailed shoes, 
canoeists with their paddles, photographers 



REVELSTOKE TO CALGARY 455 

equipped for distant expeditions, scientists, sur- 
veyors, hunters, artists, writers, tourists here for 
a day and gone, contribute individuality to the 
everyday life of this mountain Eden. 

At Banff, not an element is lacking for an ex- 
hilarating vacation, and everything one does is 
amid scenes so inspiring that the mind is uplifted 
and the feet made light. The Government and 
the railway are never done improving and beauti- 
fying this principal section of the Rocky Moun- 
tains Park, whose establishment very nearly coin- 
cided with the completion of the Canadian Pacific 
road, and whose area comprises 1800 square miles 
of mountain, alpland and valley extending from 
the Kananaskis Range below Banff, to Bow Pass, 
north of Lake Louise. Previous to 1887 the Bow 
Valley was scarcely known except to Indians, 
traders and railroad builders. In 1841, an Eng- 
lish missionary, the Reverend R. T. Rundle, 
camped for a month at the foot of Cascade Moun- 
tain, and this first prolonged visit of a pleasure- 
seeker in the neighbourhood of Banff is commemo- 
rated in the name of the 9800-foot terminal of a 
range which, strongly based but ever so graciously 
pinnacled, rises abruptly above the Bow River at 
its junction with the Spray. 

The town, the museum and gardens are placed 
on the north side of the Bow. A new bridge 
spanning the river enters the grounds of the Sani- 
tarium Hotel. This was the first guest-house in 
Banff. Though rather old-fashioned, it is chosen 
by many for its proximity to the village, and its 
convenient situation in relation to walks and river 
excursions. The Sanitarium (which is in no sense 
what its name implies) occupies a shady rise fac- 
ing across the village toward the grim, scarred 



456 THE TOURIST'S NORTHWEST 

pile of Cascade (9796 ft.), up which it is proposed 
to build an incline railway. 

A road continues a mile up-hill from the bridge 
to the great stone structure of the Canadian 
Pacific Banff Springs Hotel, an establishment of 
international fame. Situated at the base of 
Sulphur Mountain, it overlooks to the east a com- 
position of mountain scenery as harmonious in its 
way as that surrounding Lake Louise. The Bow 
River descends in a noisy waterfall below the broad 
terrace and is joined directly in front of the hotel 
by the Spray. Together they flow down the 
centre foreground and pass through a natural 
gate formed by the rending of Bundle from Tunnel 
Mountain. Beyond is a transverse pyramidal 
wall surmounted by the brow of Mt. Aylmer (10,- 
365 ft.), highest of all the Banff coterie. 

Below the terrace are the palatially equipped 
baths, the warm sulphur plunge and cold water 
swimming pool provided by a prodigal manage- 
ment. A nine-hole golf course is laid out on the 
river-bank between the rock portals. 

Behind the mammoth hostelry, well up on the 
mountain-side, there are other bath houses at an 
elevation of 5550 feet, and a modest hotel where 
guests are received. Here the hot sulphur water 
may be seen cascading down a yellowed channel 
from its spring. The bridle trail to the Govern- 
ment Observatory on the summit of Sulphur 
Mountain (12 m.) leaves the road at Grand View 
Villa and ascends 2000 feet. 

Descending the road to the Alpine Club House, 6 
through a forest of white spruce and lodge-pole 
pine, Cascade Mountain, Aylmer, Stony Squaw 
Mountain and Mt. Edith come more prominently 

e See under " Sports — Mountaineering," Chapter XIII. 



REVELSTOKE TO CALGARY 457 

into the picture. Rundle is at the right, and up 
the river to the left is the Bourgeau Range. This 
view with those from Grand View Villa and the 
Canadian Pacific Hotel, from the bridge, and from 
Tunnel Mountain, are the most comprehensive to 
be obtained in the immediate environs of beautiful 
Banff. 

The visitor who stays but a day or two, and he 
is unfortunate who cannot remain at least a week, 
is recommended to spend part of the day in walk- 
ing, part in driving or riding, and the evening on 
the river and the Vermilion Lakes. Besides the 
walks already outlined are those which lead to Bow 
Falls from the bridge, and from the bridge up the 
valley to the costly baths lately constructed by 
the Government. Adjoining is a curious cave, 
whose phenomena are expounded by a patriarchal 
guide. 

Near the bridge and the boat livery is a shop 
where game heads and birds of the Rockies are 
exposed in such profusion and variety as to form 
a most interesting museum. Here one may see a 
timber wolf skin, 7 feet 6 inches long from nose to 
tip of tail, and also (if it has not been sold since 
the summer of 1915) a wolf of the same species 
which before it was caught had killed 16 horses. 
The taxidermist at the Sign of the Goat Curio 
Shop is Charles Prior, a pupil of the late 
Rowland Ward and member of a family known in 
England, Australia and America for their knowl- 
edge of natural history and their skill in animal 
preservation. 

Across the river is the Dominion museum, whose 
exhibits are most illuminatingly explained in the 
handbook gratuitously distributed. Admission is 
free, and the hours are from nine to six daily. 



458 THE TOURIST'S NORTHWEST 

The two floors of the attractive little building are 
devoted to an exposition of mounted mammals, 
fish, reptiles, amphibians, shell-fish, insects, plants, 
minerals, rocks, fossils (some of them from Cas- 
cade Mountain), antiquities and Indian crafts of 
the Rocky Mountains of Alberta and British 
Columbia. 

Down a lane between the museum and the bar- 
racks of the Royal North-West Mounted Police is 
a fascinating community of live monkeys, bears, 
foxes, wolves, coyotes, lynx, panthers or pumas, 
badgers, martens, porcupines, gophers, marmots, 
hawks, eagles, Canada geese, pheasants and pea 
fowls. One is apt to forget that there are other 
things to do in Banff and linger here by the hour. 
The restless Polar bear has an invariably inter- 
ested group before his pool, but most absorbing 
of all are the beasts native to the country. 

Below the station, two miles from the museum, is 
the paddock wherein are herded the buffalo, or 
more properly bison, purchased in 1906 by the 
Dominion Government from the Allard-Pablo 
ranch in Montana. On the Flathead range, in- 
dividual experiment, inaugurated by an Indian, 
increased during twenty-three years a herd of 
thirty-six head to eleven hundred ; " a fact," says 
the author of an interesting pamphlet concerning 
the breeding, round-up and sale of these Flathead 
buffalo, " which proves how rapidly nature may, 
in a measure, restore the noble animals decimated 
by wanton slaughter, and removes largely the fear 
generally felt for the ultimate extinction of the 
buffalo. If such can be accomplished by private 
enterprise, simply protecting nature, surely the 
efforts of a paternal government may be confi- 
dently expected to be even more eminently success- 



REVELSTOKE TO CALGARY 459 

ful, especially when an ideal range has been pro- 
vided. The herd will undoubtedly increase to a 
degree which will make the extinction of the buffalo 
a very remote possibility. The Canadian Govern- 
ment has anticipated this, and is providing pastur- 
age ample for 10,000 head. 

" An idea of the average increase is given by a 
careful computation that about half the cows give 
birth to calves every year, while twin calves are 
evidently not uncommon, inasmuch as in one herd 
of 100 head corralled last fall, there were two 
cows each having their two calves at foot, thus 
affording positive proof of the fecundity of their 
species. 

" The percentage of loss among the calves is not 
heavy, averaging about the same, or even lower 
than ordinary range stock. They are invariably 
strong and vigorous, and instances are known to 
the herders of a buffalo calf being on its feet 
thirty seconds after being born and actually show- 
ing fight while yet scarcely twenty minutes old." 

Visitors may enter the corrals and observe at 
close hand the buffalo, young and old, and several 
specimens of Rocky Mountain goats and sheep, 7 
elk, deer, moose, Persian sheep, Four-Horned 
sheep, Angora goats and yak. 

A favourite drive by coach (fare $1.50— $2) in- 
cludes " the Corkscrew " on the side of Tunnel 
Mountain, the animal paddock, a traverse of the 
village, the Bridge View and the Government 
baths. The excursion to Lake Minnewanka is 
popular because it combines a drive of 18 miles 
(return) with a 22-mile launch ride on the " Devil's 
Lake," beneath imposing cliffs. (Inclusive fare 

7 See Hornaday's description of the native goat and sheep 
under " Sports — Hunting," Chapter XIII. 



460 THE TOURIST'S NORTHWEST 

from village $2, from C. P. R. hotel, $2.50. See 
Note 4, this chapter.) Other pleasant drives em- 
brace the views from Mt. Edith, a " loop " of the 
Bow Valley, the valley and canyon of the Spray 
River, and Sun Dance Canyon. The last, which 
is featured in one of Ralph Connor's late novels 
of Western life, is 3 miles beyond the Government 
Baths ("Cave and Basin"). 

The water excursions at Banff have been com- 
paratively little publicised for reasons affected by 
local transportation conditions. Yet in all the 
Canadian Rocky Mountain tour there is no trip 
by river-boat just like the one from the bridge 
to the head of Bow navigation. Thirty-pas- 
senger launches leave the Mather landing at 10 :30, 
3 and 4:30 each day for the hour and a half run. 
Fare 75 cents. A twilight trip (50 cents) is made 
each evening, beginning at 8 o'clock. Going up- 
river, different aspects of the mountains loom at 
each curve of the stream, and appear the more 
striking because one's eyes are raised from a low 
bank to elevations a mile above the river. Astern 
to the east is the broadside of Bundle, then 
Peechee and the Fairholme Range behind Tunnel 
Mountain. Ahead and to the right is the Saw- 
bank Range with the " Sleeping Duke " on his 
catafalque striped with white. Mt. Edith, a 
haughty crag, lifts its thumb of rock from behind 
a barrier, and beyond is the mighty donjon and 
parapet of Castle Mountain. Occasionally, 
needle pines stand straight against a distant 
background of rock and snow. These trees of the 
Rockies are so eminently suited to the pictures 
they adorn. Clouds roll high, setting peaks on 
rounded mountains. From their nest in the top 
of a hollowed trunk young owls look down with 



REVELSTOKE TO CALGARY 461 

uncurious gaze at the gliding boat. As the river 
winds, lake effects are obtained between curves ; 
familiar mountains drop bafflingly from sight, then 
rise again like gleaming phantoms to mock us from 
another quarter. Where the launch turns there 
is excellent fishing-water. Parties can be put off 
here and called for later in the day. There are 
also camps and camp-grounds to hire in this 
vicinity. 

These water scenes that enchant us in the day, 
put upon us a still more potent spell when the day 
is fading. Push off in row-boat or canoe at the 
first dimming of the sun's afterglow. Between 
sunset and summer dark you will have a long two 
hours in this northern latitude. Over a glassy 
course let the oars or paddle take you up the Bow, 
then into the Echo River where the grassy banks 
draw closer. A mile and a half from the bridge, 
enter the narrow leaf-hung alley of Willow Creek. 
The tinkle of a cow-bell . . . musk-rats swim- 
ming . . . the mountain world shut out. . . . 
Here is a strange transition. Near your home 
town there are little passage-ways just like this 
where boughs no higher than your head obscure 
the sky. ... At the end of the alley is the first 
of four lakes called Vermilion for the hue that 
sometimes tinges them by reflection from the rocks. 
Flat sedgy banks, reed-grown reaches — and when 
one turns there is Rundle's pointed eminence, and 
at the boat-side, if no breeze stirs the water, its 
pure image. Above the fourth lake is a precipice 
where the Big-Horn sheep are often seen. 

The mountain summits lose their sunset dyes and 
change to steel-white, then to blue haze. Grad- 
ually, as the blue deepens, there is no form below 
the snow, and crests hang in mystic suspension, 



462 THE TOURIST'S NORTHWEST 

at one with the atmosphere, above " the great 
world's altar-stairs, that slope through darkness 
up to God." 

The late train comes in, the coyotes in the zoo 
howl their echo to the engine's shriek. The new 
moon shows its horn above the rounded outline 
of Sulphur's flank. And so falls a night in Banff. 

Brewster's men, or Simpson, or Unwin, or Wilson 
(son of Tom, " father of all the guides ") will ad- 
vise as to pleasure trips of several days' duration 
on pony-back. 8 One of the best is to the Spray 
Lakes, 30 miles south. Going to Assiniboine the 
trail can be followed out by Simpson Pass and 
back by Spray Pass (100 miles return). A ten- 
day trip of unparagoned delight, according to the 
best-versed guides, is the one to Assiniboine, the 
supreme monolith of the southern Canadian 
Rockies. Within the vision of this lonely peak, 
whose altitude above the sea is 11,860 feet and 
whose difficult summit was first attained by 
Outram and two Swiss guides in 1901, are hun- 
dreds of lakes, and miles of alpland paved with 
wild flowers whose species alone are almost with- 
out number. Only Outram's and Wilcox's books 
describe the Assiniboine country. Other scenic 
stars of this southern paradise beyond Spray 
Lakes are the Kananaskis Lakes, almost unknown 
to tourists, but accessible by fairly good trail of 
fire and game wardens. Beyond the lakes and 
Assiniboine there is a wonderful 60-mile excursion 
to be made through the big game district and 
forests of the Elk River, near the British Colum- 
bia border to Michel, on the Crow's Nest Route. 

s See following " Mountaineering," under " Sports," Chap- 
ter XIII, for general information concerning camping ex- 
peditions. 



REVELSTOKE TO CALGARY 463 

The route of the new motorway over Vermilion 
and Sinclair Passes, between Banff and the Wind- 
ermere Valley is given under " Windermere Val- 
ley," following " Golden," this chapter. 

Banff — Calgary. 

Following the foot of Cascade Mountain the rail- 
way passes east through what is known as the 
" Cascade trough " as far as the coal mining town 
of Bankhead. West of the Gap the Bow River 
flows through a broad valley over-shadowed by 
Peechee and the Fairholme group. Above Can- 
more curious rock pillars are to be noted, known 
as " hoodoos." " These are remnants of glacial 
material," a geologist tells us, " that have resisted 
the erosive action of rain and wind, often by the 
aid of a boulder which now caps the hoodoo." 
At Exshaw, £5 miles from Banff, beyond the Gap 
or gorge-like exit of the Bow from the Rocky 
Mountains Park, is a limestone quarry and 
cement plant. At Kananaskis we have left the 
main range of the Rockies, demarked here by 
precipitous walls, and soon hear but cannot see 
the cataract of the Bow where it drops over a 
horseshoe ledge of conglomerate. Cochrane, 59 
miles east of Banff, is at the gate of the prairie, 
from which the steeps of the Rockies are upreared 
like gigantic fortifications. Calgary is 23 miles 
beyond in the midst of a plain which rolls north, 
south and east — a sea of grass and grain. 

Calgary is the oldest and the largest of Al- 
berta's municipalities. It grew from 5000 to 
85,000 in ten years, and until caught in a morass 
of financial depression, due principally to over- 
speculation in city lots and oil wells, was among 
the richest cities of Canada. Frenchmen estab- 



464 THE TOURIST'S NORTHWEST 

lished a fort here on the Bow in 1752. The pres- 
ent city dates its history from 1875 when the 
Canadian Pacific Railway sponsored its future. 
It was named for the Scotch birth-town of Colonel 
Macleod, chief of the Royal North- West Mounted 
Police. All public utilities are municipally owned. 
On Bow Island is a natural gas field which sup- 
plies cheap illumination. East of Calgary at 
Bassano, is the great dam built by the railway to 
further the irrigation of Southern Alberta prairies 
so that wheat and still more wheat may be grown. 
The Palliser Hotel, adjoining the station, and 
the Hudson's Bay Company store are the chief, 
nay the only " sights " in Calgary. From the 
roof of the triple-winged and extravagantly beau- 
tiful hotel one can see in clear weather the white 
ridge of the Rockies. The Calgary Herald Build- 
ing is another good vantage-point, and a broad 
view of the Bow is obtained from Crescent Heights, 
the most pretentious residence quarter. 

Calgary - Medicine Hat (180 m.) -Dunmore, 188 miles. 
At Dunmore the Crow's Nest Pass Route (see end of Chap- 
ter XVI) joins the main railway. Calgary - Dunmore - 
Moose Jaw (438 m., junction of the main line with the Soo- 
Paeinc route to St. Paul) - Regina (480 m.) - Brandon 
(704 m.) -Winnipeg (837 m.)-Fort William (1256 m.) - 
Toronto (2069 m.) -Montreal, 2248 miles, in 314 days. 

Medicine Hat has its heat, light and power from gas wells 
owned by the city, and is known to fame as the town Kip- 
ling said "was born lucky, with all hell for its basement." 
Kipling was there in 1890 and again in 1907. When it was 
proposed to change the appellative of "the Hat" to one 
less conspicuous for its oddity, he wrote a forceful and 
witty argument favouring the retention of the old name. 
Said he, " It echoes the old Cree and Blackfoot tradition 
of red mystery and romance. . . . The very name is an 
asset. ... It has no duplicate in the world; it makes men 
ask questions . . . above all it is the lawful, original, sweat- 
and-dust-won name of the city." And they left it Medi- 
cine Hat. 

Calgaey - Edmonton, 194 miles in 7 hours by Canadian 



REVELSTOKE TO CALGARY 465 

Pacific, via Red Deer. By Grand Trunk Pacific, 242 miles 
in 10 hours, via Mirror and Tofield. 

Didsbury, 48 miles north of Calgary, is the nearest station 
to the fossil beds of the Red Deer Canyon, 90 miles east, 
which Barnum Brown of the American Museum of Natural 
History has recently spent six years in exploring. Clam 
shells and mammal jaws and teeth were found which are 
believed to be of a geological period begun 3,000,000 years 
ago, and some of which are said to be " new to science." 
The Alberta prairies have enriched the museum by tons of 
fossils and several complete skeletons of dinosaurs. 



CHAPTER XVIII 

PRINCE RUPERT, 

WITH EXCURSIONS UP THE 

BRITISH COLUMBIA COAST AND TO 

QUEEN CHARLOTTE ISLANDS. 

PRINCE RUPERT — EDMONTON 

Prince Rupert — Hazelton — Prince George — Mt. 
Robson — Jasper — Edmonton. 



Prince Rupert. 1 

A photograph of Prince Rupert made in 1908 
shows a clearing on the shore of its winding har- 
bour, and a scattered shack or two in sight of 
snow-laden hills. Two years before, the water- 
front of the future city on Kaien Island had been 
surveyed, the landing party stepping from their 
boat into muskeg " up to their thighs " and facing 
a thicket of immense trees through which they had 
to " hack their way ashore, fighting the scrub with 
the axe, and floundering in three or four feet of 
bog." A rough wharf was put together, squat- 
ters flocked in — and were promptly ejected, for 
this was the Government's land and the Grand 
Trunk Pacific's. By 1909 the joint landlords 
were ready for purchasers. Lots were offered at 
auction and found takers to the value of more 
than a million dollars at the first sale. Most of 
the lots had bulky occupants in the form of house- 

i See under " Transportation " and " Tours," Chapter XII, 
and " Vancouver — Prince Rupert," preceding " Vancouver 
Island," Chapter XV; also description of coast trip follow- 
ing " Vancouver," same chapter. 

466 



PRINCE RUPERT TO EDMONTON 467 

high boulders and solid mounds and walls of rock 
which nothing short of dynamite would dislodge. 
But between the water-front and a ridge two miles 
back a shelving ledge was laboriously hewn on 
which the semblance of a town took shape. 
" Down by the water-side," says F. A. Talbot in 
his New Garden of Canada, published by Cassell 
in 1911, " the mountain shoulder was being blown 
away in huge chunks to provide a perfectly level 
plane upon which a magnificent terminal station 
could be erected, together with hotels, sidings, and 
all the paraphernalia of a modern port handling 
merchandise from and for all parts of the world. 
The splitting roar of dynamite was heard from 
early morn to late at night." Warned by a siren 
of an imminent blast, " workmen would be seen 
tumbling across the ragged ground. ... A few 
seconds of intense silence. Then a violent shiver- 
ing under foot, and a tremendous bellow, accom- 
panied by plumes of smoke, dust and debris rising 
gracefully in the air. . . . Dodging rocks as they 
descended was an exhilarating pastime. . . . Rid- 
dled houses and shops were the penalties exacted 
for being in a hurry to settle down in the new 
hub of commerce before the fabric had been 
fashioned." 

In the meantime, while Prince Rupert's founda- 
tion was being carved out of a granite hill, a 
furore of speculation waged. Extravagant re- 
ports seeped to the outer world of prices paid for 
thin-soiled ridges worth nothing an acre before the 
railway survey, and the feverish ratio of their 
increase. A San Francisco barber built a shop in 
1909 on a lot bought on installments, for which 
three years later he flouted an offer of $50,000. 
Mysterious strangers came in on the Vancouver 



468 THE TOURIST'S NORTHWEST 

boat, scattered speculative thousands over the 
townsite, took their deeds, and sailed away. Land 
fetched in a few months after purchase many-fold 
its original price. In November, 1911, the Grand 
Trunk Pacific placed parcels on the market which 
sold for $600,000, and the streets were not yet 
laid. A year later the town had a population of 
6000. 

In April, 1914, the first through train arrived 
in Prince Rupert from Winnipeg, and tri-weekly 
expresses now give the newest Pacific port regular 
rail connection with the East. But in the year 
that crowned Prince. Rupert's dreams, the world 
war burst, and with it, the real estate balloon. 
The heights of optimism are supplanted now by 
a plodding hopefulness in the steep ungainly 
town — a town remarkable in its present stage of 
progress only for its harbour, deep, wide and 14 
miles long, for its commanding outlook, and for 
its numbers of beautiless buildings, rainy days, 
and vagrant dogs. 

The railway has completed a drydock at a cost 
of nearly $3,000,000 which can handle a ship hav- 
ing a displacement of 20,000 tons and a length of 
600 feet, drawing 30 feet of water, and where 
every sort of ship repairing can be done, and 
fishing and other boats up to a length of 200 feet 
can be built. With the hinterland's development, 
heavy wheat, ore and lumber shipments are antici- 
pated. Expectations as to Oriental traffic await 
fulfillment. At present fish is the staple of trade. 
The establishment of huge storage plants and 
branch fisheries by firms of wide connection have 
augmented Prince Rupert's hope that, if it is not 
to rival Vancouver, Seattle and San Francisco as 
a shipping centre, it may at least capture and 



PRINCE RUPERT TO EDMONTON 469 

hold an enviable position as a port of entry and 
distributing point for salmon, halibut, cod and 
herring caught in the teeming waters of northern 
British Columbia. Millions of pounds of frozen 
fish are hauled by the Grand Trunk Pacific each 
year. The total quantity of " green " fish landed 
at Prince Rupert in an average twelve-month is 
valued at nearly $2,000,000. 

This part of the coast has an average maximum 
summer temperature of 77° ; in winter the ther- 
mometer rarely falls below freezing, except for a 
few hours on occasional days. The rainfall aver- 
ages 105 inches in a year, and the snowfall, less 
than 2 inches. 

The most attractive short excursions from 
Prince Rupert are those by steamer up Observa- 
tory Inlet and Portland Canal. 2 The Grand 
Trunk Pacific, Canadian Pacific and Union 
Steamship lines have regular sailings to Anyox 
at the head of Observatory Inlet. The fort- 
nightly steamer of the last-named company serves 
Stewart, at the north end of Portland Canal. 
The distinguishing feature of both these inland 
salt-water journeys is the superb fjord scenery 
culminating in snow-limned crags of the Coast 
Range, which lift a mile above the upper stretches 
of the long sea arms. The approach to both 
inlets is by way of Chatham Sound, in view of 
a splendid cyclorama of distant bluish heights. 
Metlakahtla, 4 miles from Prince Rupert, recalls 
the labours of Father Duncan, who at New Metla- 
kahtla, Alaska, founded an Indian colony and 
barred from it all white settlers " for the good of 

2 See under " Railways and Steamers in the Canadian 
Northwest," and closing paragraphs of "Tours," Chapter 



470 THE TOURIST'S NORTHWEST 

his charges." At the plotting of the village, 
corner lots were in such clamorous demand that 
the peace of the infant settlement was menaced. 
Whereupon the diplomatic missionary ordained 
that there should be four lots only on each square 
of land, and thus he put an end to rivalry. Port 
Simpson, near the Alaska boundary, is the his- 
toric site of a Hudson's Bay fort founded in 1833 
by the " Gentlemen Adventurers," following the 
establishment of trading posts and Indian de- 
fenses on Puget Sound, at the mouth of the 
Eraser, and on Vancouver Island. The popula- 
tion at Port Simpson, nearest British Columbia 
port to the Orient, consists of nine times as many 
Indians as Whites. 

The steamer proceeding to Anyox passes the 
mouth of the Nass River, which rises near the 
source of the Skeena River and is reputed for its 
mineral wealth. Numerous small boats hold 
Japanese and Indian salmon fishermen. For 
their catch they receive ten cents a fish regardless 
of size. Half-way up Observatory Inlet, peaks 
appear above the bordering crags with nests of 
azure-tinted ice lying in the hollows. Across the 
head of the 30-mile channel stretches a barrier 
high crested with white. To the left of the 
steamer, smoke rising lazily above the trees de- 
stroys the illusion of remoteness which up to this 
moment has enhanced the trip. Around a bend 
leading west from the main inlet are wharves, a 
settlement sharing a hillside with new-felled 
stumps, and higher up the slope, the smelter of 
the Granby Mining and Smelting Company. 
Within the recesses of the mountain above the bay 
is one of the richest treasures of copper in North 
America. On the dock on a certain July day in 



PRINCE RUPERT TO EDMONTON 471 

1915 were ranged edge to edge 2250 ingots weigh- 
ing 320 pounds each, and valued at $135,000. 
The smelter has a capacity of 2500 ingots a day, 
and each ingot represents ten tons of copper ore. 
Six hundred workmen are employed in this out- 
of-the-way niche of the Coast Range. 

Portland Canal is narrower and longer than Ob- 
servatory Inlet, and the crags which barely 
give way for the sea to enter push higher and 
range in deeper rows than do those of the parallel 
waterway on the east. From ocean level one 
looks to the apex of mountains which thrust 5000 
to 7600 feet toward the sky. This passage, 
marking for 50 miles or more the division between 
the Province and the most southerly part of 
Alaska, gives entrance to still another store-house 
of minerals — gold, silver, copper, lead, in un- 
known quantities. Stewart, the centre of half 
a dozen important operations, is a modern camp 
with electric lights, telephone, waterworks, hos- 
pital, schools and hotels, and is the terminus of 
a Canadian Northern spur that runs to the mines. 

The route up the Stikine River through north- 
ern British Columbia, and to Atlin, B. C, via 
Alaska ports, has been outlined in the final para- 
graph under " Tours," Chapter XII. These ex- 
cursions, in the judgment of many travellers, are 
superior in scenery to any of similar nature on 
the coast. Though in British Columbia, they are 
usually taken in connection with the Alaska trip. 
Something of the big game ranges about Tele- 
graph Creek (Cassiar) and Lake Atlin has been 
said under " Sports — Hunting," Chapter XIII. 
The Cassiar gold-fields were the scene a genera- 
tion ago of a rush comparable to that of the 



472 THE TOURIST'S NORTHWEST 

Klondyke. About the time of the Yukon stam- 
pede, valuable mines were discovered near Atlin, 
and recently many remunerative properties have 
again been opened up. The Engineer Mine, on 
the extraordinarily beautiful steamer route be- 
tween Cariboo, Y. T., and Lake Atlin, is one of 
the phenomenal gold deposits of the world, indi- 
vidual specimens assaying at the rate of thou- 
sands of dollars per ton. Skagway, port of 
entry for Atlin, is a two-day sail north of Prince 
Rupert. Wrangell, at the mouth of the Stikine, 
is half-way between Prince Rupert and Skagway. 

Queen Charlotte Islands. 

A fortnightly steamer of the Union Steamship 
Company calls at Prince Rupert en route to and 
from the Queen Charlotte Islands on the northerly 
run from Vancouver. The passage through 
Dixon Entrance to Massett on the north coast 
of Graham Island consumes less than half a day. 
Passengers may remain a few hours in the inter- 
esting Haida town while the steamer proceeds up 
an inlet which penetrates for 18 miles into this 
largest island of the Queen Charlotte group, and 
in the centre widens into a tidal lake about 12 
miles in length. Graham Island is separated 
from the long broken spit of Moresby Island by 
Skidegate Channel. Returning to Prince Rupert 
the steamer discharges and loads cargo and 
crosses Hecate Strait to the port of Skidegate. 
Other landings are made during the two or three- 
day tour of the mountainous archipelago, com^ 
prised of 150 islands and islets, but tourist inter- 
est centres chiefly at Massett, the capital of the 
fast disappearing Haida nation. The islands 
were discovered by Perez in 1774 and later vis- 



PRINCE RUPERT TO EDMONTON 473 

ited by Dixon and Vancouver. In 1840 there 
were 7000 Haidas and thirty villages; by 1865 
the population had decreased to 5000 and only 
about 1000 of this brave, war-like, clever and 
likely-looking race remain, " due to wars, small- 
pox, and a change from old to new ways." Like 
all seaboard Indians who for centuries have spent 
much time in canoeing, their legs are short and 
their arms long. Their skin is comparatively fair 
because of the temperate sun-rays on Queen Char- 
lotte Islands, and light hair is occasionally seen. 
A volume recently published by Dutton, In the 
Wake of the War Canoe, by the Venerable W. H. 
Collison, Archdeacon of Metlakahtla, dwells in an 
exceedingly readable manner upon conditions 
among the " piratical head-hunting Haidas " 
forty-five years ago, and gives an account of their 
evangelisation. 

Massett has about 400 inhabitants, who dwell 
in modern frame buildings. In quaint con- 
trast there are a great number of remarkable 
totem poles, most intricately and skilfully 
carved. 3 The principal industries are fishing and 
canoe building. The making of jewellery, barbaric 
in design, and the carving of slate totem poles for 
the tourist trade is a profitable occupation. Yan, 
one of many abandoned villages, is across the 
inlet from Massett, and is visited for its totem 
poles and ruined community houses. Mr. Nigel 
Sherwood of Massett informs the author, " the 
Indian of to-day despises these relics of the past 
and I have seen great axe-marks, showing that 
kindling wood is sometimes taken from the totem 
poles to heat the mid-day meal while groups are 
working in near-by gardens." 

s See under "Alert Bay," following "Vancouver," Chap- 
ter XV. 



474 THE TOURIST'S NORTHWEST 

New Massett is 3 miles south of Old Massett. 
Along the inlet are other villages populated by 
white men attracted by the fishing and the agri- 
cultural wealth of Graham Island. In the neigh- 
bourhood of Massett Inlet and Langara Island 
are the most prolific halibut banks known. 

Passing up the inlet to Port Clements charac- 
teristic views are disclosed of snow ranges and 
dense, almost unbroken forests of extremely large 
spruce, hemlock, cedar and yellow cedar trees. 
In the jungle beyond Port Clements and Yagwun 
there are no habitations, but black bear and sal- 
mon abound. 

On the east shore of Graham Island is Juskut- 
lah, 35 miles from Massett, " a little known, but 
truly wonderful place connected with Massett 
Inlet by a single channel of about twenty chains 
in width. The inlet forms a lake of about 8 miles 
by 4, and the tides flowing in or out through the 
narrow entrance are a splendid sight and sound." 
" Here," says Mr. Sherwood, " camping-places 
are ideal, and the fishing and shooting practically 
untouched." Many bays and 1 mountain-rimmed 
channels open to the canoeist a great region on 
the west coast " still in its primeval loveliness and 
loneliness." 

At Naden Harbor, 15 miles from Old Massett, 
there is a whaling station, a cannery, and a de- 
serted Haida village with interesting totems. 
Langara Island, off the northwestern coast of 
Graham Island, presents lively fishing scenes in 
summer, the fish being caught with trolling line, 
and hundreds of eager anglers assembling at a 
time. 

Surf-bathing, cycling, tennis, horse-back riding 
and motoring are enjoyed along the sandy coast 



PRINCE RUPERT TO EDMONTON 475 

between Massett and Rose Spit, and duck shoot- 
ing is unrivalled among inland ponds. 

In the district about Tow Hill, cattle abandoned 
many years ago are hunted by settlers as wild 
game. The soil of Graham Island is adjudged 
better than that of Vancouver Island, and rich 
beyond description in potential yield. Timber, 
fur-bearing animals, precious minerals, coal, 
slate, copper, iron and commercial clays are 
among other resources of the islands which await 
development. The climate is exceedingly temper- 
ate and favourable to the early maturing of vege- 
tables and flowers. Roses bloom till Christmas 
in Massett gardens. 

Skidegate has some good totem poles and lesser 
relics of Indian occupation. Moresby Island is 
mountainous and luxuriantly forested. The en- 
tire archipelago presents a labyrinth of inlets, 
coves, lakes and rivers with some rolling meadows 
and fertile valleys, the whole crowned by heights 
which ascend from 500 to 6000 feet. Unpre- 
tentious hotels exist at the principal ports, and 
the Government Agents of Graham and Moresby 
Islands will assist intending tourists and sports- 
men in making holiday plans. 

Prince Rupert 4 — Jasper. 

The journey from the coast over the line of the 
Grand Trunk Pacific is an adventure into new 
lands which carries with it a novel and pleasur- 
able thrill. The terminus is recently built, the 
villages en route but lately wrested from the 

4 Prince Rupert - Hazelton (176 m.)-ENDAKO (351 m.) 
-Prince George (465 m.)-McBruDE (611 m.)-MT. Rob- 
son (667 m.) -Jasper (719 m.)-MiETTE Hot Springs (748 
iii.)-Edson (823 m.) -Edmonton, 953 miles. By tri- 
weekly express in 2 days. 



476 THE TOURIST'S NORTHWEST 

Indian to make a white man's stopping-place. 
Construction camps, empty but still intact, sug- 
gest how lately the track was laid over which we 
progress amid forests unhewn, peaks un-named 
and as yet scarce sung, tracts unploughed which 
shaH feed future thousands, rivers never until 
now skirted by a railroad. 

For a hundred and fifty miles the snow-born 
Skeena is our j ourney's companion — a river of 
vigorous mien which breaks into rapids, contracts 
to high walled gorges, or flows with spacious tran- 
quillity among low islands and among the grassy 
banks of broad intervales. Dr. D. D. Cairnes of 
the Dominion Geological Survey remarks the steep 
and craggy character of the summits which fol- 
low above the lower reaches of the river, but be- 
lieves they have been " toned down by the moving 
ice of the Glacial period." Where the railway 
crosses the Coast Range the width is approxi- 
mately 60 miles. Quoting Dr. Cairnes : " The 
valley of the Skeena, where it cuts the Coast 
Range, is a deep, steep-sided trough, precisely 
similar to the fjord-like depressions filled with salt 
water so prevalent along the coast. It has how- 
ever, been gradually silted up by the river down 
to about Mile post 40, and is bottomed with 
alluvial flats and islands. Above the mouth of 
the Kitsumgallum its character changes. The 
valley above this, at the end of the Glacial period 
was floored for some distance by estuarine, and 
farther up by glacial deposits, and in place of 
depositing its load the river is scouring out, and 
along most of its course is sunk in a secondary 
valley. 

" . . . The district at the height of the Glacial 
period was covered everywhere up to an elevation 



PRINCE RUPERT TO EDMONTON 477 

of about 6000 feet by a great confluent ice sheet. 
The general movement of the ice east of the Coast 
Range was southerly, but a huge stream, as shown 
by numerous strong groovings along the moun- 
tain slopes, poured westward to the sea down the 
valley of the Skeena. 

At the close of the Glacial period, the district 
was depressed, and Skeena valley was occupied 
by a long arm of the sea which extended through 
the Coast Range into the Interior region. Since 
then there has been a gradual elevation of at 
least 500 feet, the sea has retreated and the 
mouth of the river has progressed steadily down 
the valley. . . . 

" East of the Kitsumgallum valley a second wide 
range of high nameless mountains, mostly built 
of schist and granite, is crossed. These connect 
to the south with the Coast Range and may be 
considered a spur from it. After passing them 
the dry interior district is reached, and a change 
in the topography is immediately noted. The 
valleys of the Skeena and its tributaries become 
much wider, are frequently terraced, and the relief 
is expressed in long even ridges, or in isolated 
groups of high peaks mostly built of upturned 
Jurassic and Cretaceous strata surrounding 
granite cores." 

The river valley is entered opposite Port Essing- 
ton, where until Prince Rupert's rise a Hudson's 
Bay post flourished. The estuary is alive with 
fishing-craft, mostly manned by natives and Ori- 
entals, who find a market for their catch at numer- 
ous canneries situated on islands and mainland. 
The Skeena salmon industry is now said to exceed 
that of the Fraser in importance. Besides fish, 



478 THE TOURIST'S NORTHWEST 

fresh and frozen, several hundred thousand cases 
of canned salmon are despatched in a year to 
ports all over the globe. The " iron chink," 
employed for heading and cleaning the fish, sub- 
stitutes hand labour in these preliminary proc- 
esses, while other knowing machines cut and pack 
them with fascinating precision. The season lasts 
about five months. 

Beyond Sockeye the river loses its estuarial 
character and heights forested almost to their 
rounded tops stand well above the shore. In 
boldness and altitude the precipices increase as the 
train approaches the Kwinitsa River's mouth. 
Snow lies heavier on the mountain shoulders. 
Rocks show glacial scoring. From Kwinitsa and 
Salvus beautiful peaks adorn valleys which open 
at right angles to the Skeena, with a single white- 
hooded watchman standing guard at some distant 
curve of the tributary stream. The action of the 
tides is noticeable as far as the sixtieth mile, but 
from Kwinitsa east the water is fresh. Small 
glaciers are descried on the face of the range op- 
posite Exstew. The river, maintaining a uniform 
breadth of about a mile, " swings from bank to 
bank washing alternately the slopes on either 
side " — slopes of hemlock, fir, towering cedar 
and broad-girthed Sitka spruce tangled about the 
base with a thicket of saplings and Devil's Club. 
Opposite Shames and extending to the Kitselas 
Canyon the rocks of the south bank resemble a 
baronial defence with parapet, keep, barbizan, 
portcullis, ranged a mile in the air. Above the 
Kitsumgallum Valley the Coast Range descends 
in height. 

Before the railway came, Hudson's Bay Com- 
pany stern-wheelers gave precarious transport 



PRINCE RUPERT TO EDMONTON 479 

between Port Essington and Hazelton, head of 
Skeena navigation. Subtle currents, changing 
channels, fluctuating water gauge, rocks and 
vicious rapids tormented the navigator of the 
upper course. Talbot in his entertaining book, 
written when the flat-bottom " alligator " boats 
were still in service, relates a typical experience in 
the Kitselas Canyon, " the Scylla and Charybdis 
of the Skeena." Running down-river, approach 
to the mile-long passage between 100-foot walls 
was announced " by the officer coming round and 
inquiring if any one desired to get off to avoid its 
passage. This canyon," the author explains, 
" has captured so many vessels, and has built up 
such a death-roll, that many people prefer to land 
at the upper entrance and walk across country 
over the well-beaten portage to Kitselas. Some- 
times the boats cannot go through at all — to 
make the attempt would be certain death. . . . 

" Above the canyon the river is about 150 yards 
wide . . . then a spur from the range makes a 
dart and cuts across the waterway, narrowing it 
down to a mere ditch, and littering its bottom 
with sharp rocks. . . . The speed of the water 
is terrific. ' Sometimes it rattles through here at 
about twenty miles an hour,' remarks one of the 
crew. . . . 

" The passage of this bad piece of water is a 
master-piece of navigation. . . . The prow 
swings into the jaws bristling with black teeth, 
which appear ready to crush the frail humanity- 
laden shell. . . . Everything is strained to the 
utmost; if anything gives, 'thar's goin' to be an 
unrehearsed somersault into hell,' as one of the 
sourdoughs aboard growled." Then, as a nar- 
row fissure was negotiated where the Mount Royal 



48Q THE TOURIST'S NORTHWEST 

was smashed in two, and every one watched breath- 
lessly the present manoeuvre, the sourdough was 
heard again, " ' Git yar checks ready, boys. All 
ready to hand in? Oh, we've cheated the old she- 
devil again!' as the telegraph rang out, the boat 
came round, cleared the bend and bounced 
through the rest of the gorge, with sundry knocks 
against the walls, at full speed." 

"Hard Scrubble" and the "Hornet's Nest" 
were other dreaded " streaks of hell " which in 
days not long back made hull-patching on the 
Skeena " one of the busiest and most regular of 
occupations." But in the new evolution, steel 
rails transport sourdough and settler, tourist and 
even the canoe-wise Indian ; the " river j uggling " 
steamboat captain has for all time disappeared 
from the Skeena. 

Between Pacific and Dorreen, 125 miles east of 
Prince Rupert, three very high mountains group 
in a glorious trinity. The peak which appears 
for a moment within the surplice of the foothills 
southeast of Dorreen, and is lost at the bend of 
the track, is Sir Robert, recently named by the 
Dominion Geographic Board for the Premier of 
Canada. The ice stream, a mile in width, which 
floods the mountain-side with tints of greenish 
white, is to be henceforth known as Borden 
Glacier. 

Beyond Dorreen a snowy crest rises like a splen- 
did wraith from behind a burned-over ridge. One 
peak becomes two, and two are succeeded by five 
other cusps on a soaring palisade turned obliquely 
to the curving stream. Outlined against a broad 
snow-afield in the middle foreground is a little 
mountain symmetrically pointed, which rests at the 
feet of the taller Seven Sisters like a younger 



PRINCE RUPERT TO EDMONTON 481 

child posed in a family group. Here we have 
crossed the Cascade Range and according to 
geologists' analysis are among the upturned rocks 
of the Interior region. Approaching the Indian 
village of Kitwanga the track follows a peculiar 
grey range wrinkled and folded like the hide of 
elephants. To the right of the rails, half a dozen 
boldly carved totem poles and a cemetery notable 
for its elaborate grave-houses announces Kit- 
wanga, where dwell members of the ancient Kiti- 
shan tribe. The dialect they speak differs from 
that of the Tsimpsians and Haidas. Immured 
for centuries in this remote realm, the white man's 
advent was vigorously resented by these villagers 
and their neighbours. The railway surveyors 
were run off the land and pursued their mission 
only after some dramatic scenes with the pro- 
testing Kitwangans. Salvation Army lasses and 
contact with modern conditions as introduced by 
the railway have brought a measure of civilisa- 
tion. Occasionally, as the train draws on, the 
window frames fascinating genre studies of root- 
gatherers digging by a brook, heads bound in red 
or yellow kerchiefs, or fagot-bearers, often very 
old and grizzled, coming slowly through a wood 
bent beneath an overladen basket. 

The next important view above the narrowing 
river is a long battlement uplifted in two daring 
pikes. A little way on, a most picturesque 
Indian settlement appears across the river from 
the railway. The bank is picketed with a row of 
cottonwood heraldry poles, and there is the usual 
colony of graves fenced and roofed in, with tradi- 
tional tokens exposed under the ornamental 
shelter. 

The Skeena is seen now on the left. Heavily 



482 THE TOURIST'S NORTHWEST 

timbered tracts give way to open woodlands of 
Northern Birch. At Tramville is an aerial ore- 
carrier that runs through the trees to a mountain 
of copper owned by the Montana Development 
Company. The ore is shipped to Prince Rupert 
by the Grand Trunk Pacific and from there by 
barge to the Granby smelter. Twenty carloads 
leave the mine every day. Across the valley are 
other mines of copper, silver and lead, now pos- 
sible of development because of the newly arrived 
railway. 

The Babine Range shows to the north before 
reaching Hazelton, which sits on a wide flat 3 
miles down from the railroad. Fur traders out- 
fitted here and gold-seekers have for 50 years 
passed over this trail. This old town had made 
history before cities which now flourish in the 
south had cut their municipal eye-teeth. Mining 
and farming have usurped interest in peltries, just 
as the steamboat supplanted the canoes of the fur 
brigades, and the railway has done away with 
the steamboat. Four hundred miles to the north 
is Telegraph Creek, and more than half as far 
again, Lake Atlin. Some day a road will join 
Hazelton to the Yukon. 

The track turns away from the Skeena, which 
has its source in the north near the headwaters 
of the Stikine, and enters the valley of the raging 
Bulkley at Hazelton. On the southwest the 
castellated range known as the Rochers Deboules 
rises 7000 feet above the meeting of the rivers. 
As altogether charming a scene as the Skeena 
offers is of these cloud-wreathed rocks viewed 
from the gate of the inflowing Bulkley, with 
Indian canoes lying on a pebbly beach and a ter- 



p 




PRINCE RUPERT TO EDMONTON 483 

race of trees making a dark velvet band against 
the weather-scarred pile. 

New Hazelton, a hamlet by the rail-side, is 
young, but not too young to be writ in the thrill- 
ing annals of the far Northwest. Two or three 
years ago the treasure of its bank, a modest 
branch of the Union Bank of Canada, tempted 
" Bohunk " robbers, whom the natives vaguely de- 
fine as Russians. In banking hours they gained 
entrance, secured $16,000 and got away before 
the astonished cashier could alarm the citizens. 
A year had scarcely passed when a second foray 
was attempted, also in daylight, and also with suc- 
cess, though this time only a few thousands lay 
at hand. Making their exit the bold Bohunks 
fired a volley to scare off the townsfolk. But 
undaunted, the New Hazeltonians, who had been 
sleeping on their guns since the previous attack, 
seized arms, scurried behind protecting stumps, 
and let fly a rain of bullets. Two of the bandits 
they wounded. One died. But the man with the 
money made his way to the hills and was never 
caught. There are no scarlet-coats in British 
Columbia. 

The gorge through which the Bulkley runs like 
a mill-race resembles in its siding of smooth, even 
slabs a well constructed canal lock with chiselled 
masonry. Two bridges cross the wild gap, one a 
modern affair lately built by the Province, the 
other an ingenious wooden footway contrived by 
Indians on the cantilever principle, with project- 
ing timbers supported on the brow of the precipi- 
tous banks meeting in a crazy central span. 
Lashings of supple twigs hold the miracle to- 
gether. 



484 THE TOURIST'S NORTHWEST 

Moricetown, named for a missionary to the Cer- 
rier Indians, spells salmon. The fish running in- 
land to spawn crowd from the Skeena through 
the canyons and riffles of the Bulkley, and at the 
boulder-strewn passage below Moricetown are 
halted by a formidable cataract. The more agile 
leap it, but the great mass of the gleaming batal- 
lions arrived here on their summer pilgrimage 
tumble back and fall a prey to the deft gaff of 
Indians poised on an over-hanging rock or 
wooden scaffolding. Eye-witnesses declare the 
fish are impaled in mid-air by Babine experts, and 
as fast as the spear can shoot out. 

The Bulkley Valley contains leagues of undulat- 
ing fields capable of producing oats, barley, tim- 
othy (jO-fa tons to the acre), and every sort of 
farm produce. Hot summers and long days give 
ideal maturing conditions, and the soil, loam on 
a clay sub-soil, is so fertile that settlers' tales of 
quick profits read like gold miners' narratives. 
Smithers is the market-town of this agrarian para- 
dise. Four miles west is the uncommonly lovely 
lake called Kathlyn, whose shore is barricaded by 
the interfolding ice-hung pyramids of Hudson's 
Bay Mountain. 

Beyond Smithers, at Mile 235, the railway over- 
looks the junction of the Bulkley with the tor- 
rential Telkwa. The latter's short path through 
the mountains on the south is inlaid with minerals, 
and littered with the claims of hopeful pros- 
pectors whose chances for future fortunes are, 
like those of ranchers and lumbermen, greatly 
augmented by the coming of the railway. The 
southern valley of the Bulkley grows huge and 
delicious berries, immense turnips and potatoes, 
cabbages and parsnips, and spreading fields of 



PRINCE RUPERT TO EDMONTON 485 

luxuriant oats and hay. Two Scotchmen, set- 
tled here a dozen j^ears, have many hundreds of 
prolific acres under cultivation. In the Fraser 
Lake and Endako River Districts is a vast pastur- 
age where cattle and horses feed all winter. East 
of Fraser Lake is the level Nechako Valley which 
only needed the scream of the engine to wake it 
to life. 

Prince George presides at the joining of the 
Nechako and the Upper Fraser. Going east, 
one arrives here in the morning to discover the 
waters flowing with the train, a divide having 
been crossed in the night. Prince George has as 
good cause as any town in this agricultural king- 
dom to expect a thriving future. Its citizens put 
it stronger than that. They cite the coming of 
the Pacific Great Eastern by way of Lillooet, Soda 
Creek and Quesnel from Vancouver, and the unit- 
ing at this point of two trunk lines and two rivers. 
The Cariboo mines are only a hundred miles 
south. Stages and Fraser River steamers now 
serve them. An expansive area but awaits the 
railway and the plough to burst into blooming. 
And Prince George will be the outlet through 
which the harvest of wheat and gold will reach 
the East. The town shines cheerfully in its new 
paint. While the train pauses a quarter of an 
hour one has time to walk up the main street, and 
resolves to fix this promenade in his memory so 
that when Prince George attains its growth as the 
interior metropolis of northern British Columbia, 
he may recall how it looked in short dresses. 

Old Fort George, erected in 1807, was the post 
to which New Caledonia traders pushed on by 
canoe when they had ridden from Kamloops to 
Alexandria and left their horses at the latter sta- 



486 THE TOURIST'S NORTHWEST 

tion until they returned with their treasure of 
furs. Beyond Fort George they paddled the 
Stuart River to Fort St. James on Stuart Lake, 
and to Fort McLeod, Fraser Fort, Babine and 
Connolly, which commanded the beaver marshes 
and the maze of lakes and forests between the 
Kispiox River and the Parsnip, an area as large 
as Germany. It was here, a historian of the 
Northwest tell us, " Simon Fraser, the discoverer, 
had planted the flag of the fur trader and estab- 
lished posts in the land that reminded him of 
Scottish highlands." In times of Indian treaty, 
or when Sir George Simpson, Governor of the 
allied Hudson's Bay and Northwest Companies, 
arrived on a visit of inspection, Fort St. James, 
" capital of this mountain kingdom," wore " an 
air of military pomp, the sentinel going on duty 
at 9 p. m. and with monotonous tread calling 
out 6 all's well' every half hour till 5:30 a. m., 
when a rifle is fired to signal all hands up." 

At Stuart Lake was stationed between the years 
1822 to 1826, the youth, James Douglas. " He 
who was to become titled governor of British 
Columbia, had now to keep the books, trade with 
the Indians, fish through ice with bare hands, 
haul sleighloads of furs through snowdrifts waist 
deep — in a word, do whatever his hand found to 
do, and do it with his might." Here, at the age 
of twenty-one, Douglas, who was of West Indian 
Creole and Scotch parentage, married a girl part 
Indian, " according to the rites of the Company 
— which simply consisted of open avowal and 
entry on the books." During one of many 
rugged dramas played at Fort St. James, Doug- 
las' bride snatched at the hand of a savage whose 
dagger was already poised to thrust her husband's 






PRINCE RUPERT TO EDMONTON 487 

heart, and knowing the ways of Indians was able 
WTth gifts of clothing and tobacco to divert him 
and his tribesmen from their murderous purpose. 

Fifteen years before Fraser set out from Fort 
George to explore the great river south to its 
mouth, Alexander Mackenzie passed this way on 
his epic journey to the Pacific, which he first saw 
near Cape Menzies, south of Prince Rupert. 
Where the Bad River comes in east of Prince 
George we are reminded of the furious passage 
recorded by Mackenzie through the rapids of this 
wicked stream, the link between the Parsnip and 
the Fraser. 

All day we run through the can} r ons and beside 
the terraced banks of the Fraser, flowing among 
the western foothills of the Rockies. To pole a 
boat up the turbid stream from Fort George to 
the present station of McBride used to consume 
as many days as the engine now needs hours to 
cover the 150 rail miles, which have however a 
much more direct course than the river. McBride 
is a few miles west of the boundary of Mt. Robson 
Park. Late in the afternoon the river valley 
takes on a new interest. The Rockies are at 
hand. . . . The railway rides higher on its wall, 
the stream makes its way in a deeper bed. At 
Tete Jaune Cache, where the old canoe and land 
trail meet, and the Canadian Northern comes up 
from the south, we have climbed from sea level to 
an elevation of 2400 feet by a road smooth as a 
skating floor and with only a nominal grade, de- 
spite a consistent ascent for 650 miles. 

To the north there wheels a cohort of grena- 
diers in sun-gilded helmets whose file and counter- 
file shield from view the captain of them all, Mt. 
Robson. So might a chief seek seclusion among 



488 THE TOURIST'S NORTHWEST 

his troops until the majestic moment fixed for his 
appearance. The ranks recede as the train fol- 
lows along the cliff. Our eagerness increases. 

... At last the gleaming bulk of Robson's 
crown starts up with splendid vigour, then rapidly 
is unsheathed, until, between the little stations of 
Albreda and Swiftwater, the massif throws off 
its attending summits and exposes its full stature, 
with base upon a broad plane of river-flats and 
clustering evergreens. Look from the ledge down 
into the vale, then let the eyes measure steep by 
steep the stupendous shape, its Vertical ridges 
projecting like the flying buttresses of a transept, 
its swelling dome, 10,000 feet above the river, 
ribbed with lateral white bands, and its deep rock 
basins filled with snow. Behold Robson " immeas- 
urably supreme," with apex the loftiest in the 
Dominion and sides perpetually paved with ice. 
If the clouds in this meeting-place of storms have 
withheld their curtain, and from foot to cap the 
monarch shows himself — then one commands here 
the finest single view of a Rocky Mountain, for 
frame, for form and altitude. 

Mount Robson station is the place where 
campers and mountaineers descend who are going 
up the Grand Fork Valley by the 17-mile trail 
which admits one to close intimacy with the won- 
ders about Robson Pass. A parkland between 
Robson (13,700 ft.) and Mt. Whitehorn (11,101 
ft.) extends for 5 miles through the river valley 
beyond Lake Helena. Bedecked with forty falls 
which cast their sheen upon the mural precipices 
in leaping lines of white, this part of the upward 
journey is a magnificent prelude to Berg Lake, 
the source of the Grand Fork, and to views from 
the pass of Mt. Resplendent, Whitehorn, The 



PRINCE RUPERT TO EDMONTON 489 

Dome, Helmet, Rearguard, Lynx, Mumm, Kain, 
and other summits of wildest splendour. When 
the Tumbling Glacier casts its pinnacled shafts 
of ice into the lake at the foot of Robson the 
tranquillity of the water is sometimes disturbed 
for half an hour and waves rise to the crags like 
sea billows. 

Beyond the pass is Lake Adolphus, remarkable 
for colossal out-standing sentinels with conical 
peaks and glaciated wedges that express the ulti- 
mate in rock power. 

Mountaineers avow this Robson-land 5 the finest 
field of sport in the Rockies, the main peaks re- 
quiring skilful climbing on all sides. Dr. Cole- 
man, an ex-president of the Alpine Club of Can- 
ada, thinks " from some low mountains to the 
northwest there is perhaps the most splendid view 
in North America of mountains, glaciers and 
lakes. The blue seracs of the Tumbling Glacier 
seem to be rushing down thousands of feet from 
the Helmet and the main peak of Robson to 
plunge into Berg lake, which doubles them by re- 
flection. To the left the main glacier, starting in 
great icef alls on the northeast of the peak, sweeps 
a curve of five or six miles round the dark rocks 
of the Rearguard. Behind the main glacier to- 
ward the south rises the unbroken snow slope of 
Mt. Resplendent ending with a projecting cornice 
of snow at 11,000 feet. . . . 

" There are other striking mountains in the 
region, such as Mt. Geikie to the south of the 
Yellowhead Pass and the Whitehorn to the north, 

s For mention of some ascents, see under " Sports — Moun- 
taineering," Chapter XIII. 

Consult the Brewster Company at Jasper, Alberta, con- 
cerning excursions in Mt. Robson Park. 



490 THE TOURIST'S NORTHWEST 

though none rival Mt. Robson itself; but much 
remains for exploration and it will be years before 
this northern region of the Rockies, all the Al- 
berta side of which is in Jasper Park, is thor- 
oughly known and mapped." 

The awesome beauty of Robson's slow gliding 
toboggan of ice, of milky blue lakes enclosed by 
slopes whose fantastic domes and minarets rise 
sheer 5000 to 9000 feet, of a river dropping in 
full stream down a granite battlement, is enhanced 
by contrast with winsome woodlands, with thickets 
of flowering bushes, with mossy bosks, and wide 
flowing meadows of pink and mauve and blue and 
lavender that glow unabashed amid the stern 
grandeur of granite and ice that is here held in- 
violate for all time by a protecting Government. 

Beyond Resplendent we bid the Fraser a some- 
what sentimental farewell. If we have travelled 
in its boisterous company along the southern 
route, we have by now been diverted by it's moods 
for several hundred swift passing miles. Moose 
Lake replaces its gleam below our window. As 
we ascend the last rise to Yellowhead (3720 ft.), 
lowest of the Rocky Mountain passes crossed by 
a railroad, a great lake of the same name, one of 
the sources of the Fraser, lies on our way, and at 
the continental ridge the Miette River turns with 
us down the slope. It is interesting to note that 
the route through the Rockies via Yellowhead 
Pass now followed by the Grand Trunk Pacific 
and the Canadian Northern was originally chosen 
by the Canadian Pacific, but in 1883 was aban- 
doned in favour of the Kicking Horse Pass. The 
Yellowhead was one of the earliest traverses 




c 






PRINCE RUPERT TO EDMONTON 491 

known to the doughty fur-seekers who journeyed 
back and forth between the Athabasca and Colum- 
bia Valleys. The significant peaks of the Atha- 
basca Pass, directly south of Yellowhead and Mt. 
Geikie (11,000 ft.), are Brown and Hooker, each 
about 9000 feet high. Wilcox relates that for 
many years these were believed to excel all North 
American summits in altitude. In the The Rock- 
ies of Canada, he tells the story of a voyageur 
who in 1817 crossed the Athabasca Pass with Ross 
Cox on the return from Astoria, and who, con- 
templating in silence the prospect from this out- 
look, exclaimed with vehemence : " I'll take my 
oath, my dear friends, that God Almighty never 
made such a place." David Douglas, the bota- 
nist, not the Hudson's Bay factor, named Brown 
and Hooker ten years later and recorded that the 
height of the former " does not appear to be less 
than 16,000 or 17,000 feet above the level of the 
sea. The view from the summit is of too awful 
a cast to afford pleasure." 

" Jasper's House " was originally a way-station 
for travellers across the mountains. Three mis- 
erable log huts were used by " comers and goers " 
— Indians, voyagewrs, and traders, men, women 
and children. Jasper was the inn-keeper and 
" Tete Jaune," Yellowhead, a huge red-haired 
Indian, who in Jasper's employ used to carry his 
furs over this trail and hide them at the place 
still called the " cache," until the time was oppor- 
tune for their shipment by canoe down the Fraser. 
The Jasper House of the Hudson's Bay Company, 
and Henry House of the Northwesters were the 
frequented trading posts of the Athabasca River. 
The latter was on the bank opposite the mouth 



492 THE TOURIST'S NORTHWEST 

of the Maligne River. Twenty-five miles to the 
northeast, scattered relics still exist of the older 
company's occupancy. 

The Divide marks the boundary between the 
provinces of British Columbia and Alberta, and 
between Mt. Robson Park and Jasper Park. On 
either side the railway from the Pass to Parkgate 
the Dominion has set aside territory to the extent 
of 4400 square miles for a national reserve, which 
in scenic attraction and in wealth of hot springs 
rivals the Rocky Mountains Park. The principal 
thoroughfare of the recently created public recre- 
ation ground is the valley of the Athabasca River. 
On the banks of this fabled stream is Jasper sta- 
tion, seat of the Park's direction, and rendezvous 
of tourists. 

Three miles from the station by road, or two 
miles by trail, is a charmingly environed and well- 
appointed tent settlement. Here on the edge of 
a little lake of wondrous hues the visitor finds 
informal accommodation thoroughly in harmony 
with the wilderness which he has come to see. 
Sunny foot-trails lead to lake-girdled knolls that 
show the broad valley and the lustrous range dis- 
posed above it. The mountain, which in height 
and symmetry transcends all others visible on the 
south, bears by official edict the name of Edith 
Cavell, the Englishwoman who at Brussels, on 
October 12, 1915, gave her life for her country's 
cause. Previous to the pronouncement of the 
Geographic Board early in 1916, the Cavell mon- 
ument had been confusingly known as " the Jas- 
per Park Mt. Geikie." Rightfully, the latter 
name belongs to the 11,000-foot crest on the 
Divide south of Yellowhead Pass. It was the 



PRINCE RUPERT TO EDMONTON 493 

peak now called Cavell which Professor Holwaj 
and Dr. Gilmour conquered in August, 1915. 

North of the tent colony is Pyramid Mountain, 
reached by a 4-mile wagon-road which terminates 
on the edge of a lake of tinted reflections. 

Another road to the north, but trending east, 
brings us by an inspiring 6-mile climb to the ec- 
centric gorge of the Maligne River, which has no 
equal among tourist haunts. The river of 
strange habits has taken its rise far to the south 
below Mt. Brazeau, has passed beneath the Ram- 
parts and entered Maligne Lake, from Maligne 
Lake it has expanded into Medicine Lake, and 
contracting again, draws near to its end in the 
Athabasca. Where we come upon it through the 
forest, the Government has erected a shelter, and 
two bridges, neither of which is more than a few 
feet long. Under these insignificant spans, 
which form advantageous platforms from which 
to witness its seething, chiselling, resounding de- 
scent, the maddened river grinds its way through 
a barrier suddenly thrown across its course. The 
display by the upper foot-bridge is impressive for 
evidences of water's centrifugal force. Rocks 
are hollowed like a dead stump, are turned out 
like basins from a potter's wheel, are grooved and 
gored with circular markings. Down this extra- 
ordinary terrace the water dashes, swirling in and 
out of tiny coves, leaping from ledge to ledge in 
the narrowing channel, burrowing always deeper 
in the rock. At the lower bridge the river is com- 
pressed through a spout from which it emits a 
roaring, straight-hung gush of spray that gouges 
out a cauldron far below. Deeper grows the 
flume as the fall gains force and weight, and closer 
draw the walls until one standing on the brink 



494 THE TOURIST'S NORTHWEST 

can no longer see the frantic plunging but only 
hear the clangour that ascends 130 feet or more 
from the depths of the gloomy fissure. Boulders 
rolled over the edge carom from side to side for 
seconds before they reach the bed. Enticed by 
the wizardry of the stream which before our eyes 
has sunk into a granite hill, we pursue the inclined 
cleft down a grassy slope, and there suddenly 
readjusting the focus of our vision and of our 
mental range, look as from a great stadium on a 
reach of infinite breadth and height that embraces 
the Valley of the Athabasca and the grandees 
above the Divide. An unparalleled transition, 
which leaves a permanent mark on the memory. 

These marvels and many more the traveller sees 
who takes the trail for Medicine Lake and its still 
more sumptuous neighbour, the lake called 
Maligne. 

The round trip from Tent Town to Medicine 
Lake consumes two days, and the total cost in 
parties of one or two persons is $18 each, includ- 
ing horses, camp equipment, provisions and 
guides. The ratio of cost decreases in propor- 
tion to the number of " guests " in the party. 

Via Medicine Lake and return through Shovel 
Pass the excursion to Maligne Lake requires five 
days. Cost, $45 each person in parties of one or 
two, or $25 each in parties of more than five. 

A trip for which six days must be allotted con- 
tinues northeast from Medicine Lake to Jack 
Lake and Rocky Canyon — by many considered 
the most rewarding trail expedition in this part 
of the Rockies. 

The author is indebted to Mr. Jack Brewster, 



PRINCE RUPERT TO EDMONTON 495 

Jasper, for assistance in compiling detailed de- 
scription of the foregoing routes. 

Medicine Lake. 

Medicine Lake is distant about 18 miles from Tent Town. 
Travelling by Government wagon-road about 6 miles to 
Maligne Gorge, the traveller thereafter enters the Maligne 
Valley with the Colin Range on his left, and the Maligne 
Range on his right. Taking the mountain trail he follows 
the Maligne River, and passes the Lesser Canyon, 4 miles 
above the Maligne Gorge. Here the scenery changes; tall 
pines and moss-covered ground make a pretty picture. 
Emerging from this miniature park with Medicine Lake, 
4 miles long and 1 mile wide, coming into view, a beautiful 
panorama is presented. On the shore of the lake the 
Government has erected another log shelter, about 16 miles 
from Tent Town. A peculiarity of this lake is that there 
is apparently no outlet, the Maligne River here disappear- 
ing through a subterranean channel; this is always a source 
of interest to geologists. On the left of the lake the moun- 
tains rise sheer from the water, while on the right the 
green slopes running up into the mountain sheep pastures 
are in direct contrast to the rugged grandeur of the moun- 
tains on the opposite side. 

Maligne Lake and Return by Shovel Pass. 

From the Medicine Lake shelter the trail follows along 
the east shore of the lake through magnificent timber which 
here runs down to the high water mark, yet the trail is so 
close to the lake that it is constantly in view, and on a calm 
day one gets wonderful mountain reflections. 

From the south end of Medicine Lake the trail follows up 
the east bank of the Maligne River, which, in its own quite 
peculiar way, grows larger the nearer to its source it gets. 
Maligne Lake, about 10 miles from Medicine, is not visible 
from the trail until it literally bursts into view in all its 
incomparable grandeur. The lake itself is about 18 miles 
long and varies from two miles wide down to 200 feet at 
Seymour Narrows, about half way up the lake. On both 
sides the shores are timbered to the water's edge, while on 
the east side are the wonderful Opal Mountains. No one 
who has once seen them, and especially their reflection in 
the lake as the sun is setting on a calm summer's evening 
can even think of any other name as being fit for them. 
Every colour of the rainbow in eveiy imaginable tint is 
shown. 



496 THE TOURIST'S NORTHWEST 

On both sides of the lake are glaciers reaching almost to 
the water. As a perfect example of all that is most won- 
derful and beautiful in mountain and lake scenery, it seems 
to be universally admitted that Maligne Lake is unequalled, 
certainly unexcelled in any part of the world. 

The first to give this opinion was Mrs. Mary T. S. 
Schaffer who records in Old Indian Trails the impression 
of her party, the first of the white race, so far as is known, 
to see this lake of the glowing turreted shores. In 1908 
an informal expedition set forth from Lake Louise to dis- 
cover the whereabouts of a mysterious, unmapped lake 
somewhere to the north which Indians had reported.s 
When at last the lake was found, not by Mrs. Schaffer as 
usually stated, but by a masculine member of the party 
whom she designates as " K.," plans were immediately 
matured for a sail upon it. The craft was a raft. The 
seats, bags of flour and bundles of blankets. " In about 
an hour," writes Mrs. Schaffer, "there burst upon us that 
which, all in our little company agreed, was the finest view 
any of us had ever beheld in the Rockies. This was a 
tremendous assertion, for, of that band of six of us, we 
all knew many valleys in that country, and each counted 
his miles of travel through them by thousands." 

Leaving the lake we ford to the west bank of the Maligne 
River and turning to the left work our way over Shovel 
Pass, alt. 8800 ft. (approx.), through the Maligne R,ange, 
and across green open summits, ideal grazing ground for 
mountain sheep. From the summit the traveller can see 
two lakes, at over 1000 ft. above timber line, which gives 
some idea of the height of the Pass. The Pass derives its 
name from a party who while crossing the summit were 
forced to dig their way through the snow by means of im- 
provised wooden shovels. A short distance after crossing 
the summit, we turn sharply to the left, which brings into 
sudden view the Athabasca River Valley, lying some 4000 
ft. below, and camp at timber line. Leaving there the next 
day some three hours brings us to Buffalo Prairie, an old 
Indian camping ground; from here we have a magnificent 
view of Mount Cavell, 11,033 ft., and Mount Hardisty, 
10,000 ft. The distance from Tent Town to this point up 
the Athabasca River is only 10 miles. 

Jack Lake and Rocky Canyon. 

On leaving the Government shelter at Medicine Lake, we 
pass along the left hand shore of the lake, and leaving the 

6 For description of the trail between Lake Louise and 
Maligne Lake, see fine print following " Lake Louise," 
Chapter XVII. 



PRINCE RUPERT TO EDMONTON 497 

Maligne River turn into a narrow winding valley which 
leads to Jack Lake. The mountains on the right side of 
this valley rise to a height of some 8000 ft., while the 
formation on the left side of the valley is entirely different, 
the mountains showing effects of the vast upheaval that at 
some time must have taken place. From here the trail 
continues through a forest of green timber to Jack Lake, 
at the far end of which camp is made. From here a mag- 
nificent view of snow-capped mountains and glaciers can 
be seen. The fishing in the lake is of the very best (lake 
trout and Dolly Varden). 

Leaving Jack Lake we follow down the stream which drains 
the lake, and where excellent fishing can also be had, to 
the Rocky River, and proceed down the river some 5 
miles to camp. The next day takes us down the valley, 
from whence many beautiful view points are reached, and 
at night camp is made near the upper end of the Rocky 
Canyon, and mountain sheep licks. 

On the following day we pass along the edge of the Rocky 
River Canyon. This is 500 ft. deep and 3 miles long, and 
is one of the finest canyons in Canada. Entering the main 
valley early in the afternoon we arrive at the G. T. P. 
station of Hawes, and reach Tent Town the following day, 
travelling up the east side of the Athabasca River. 

The trail of a two-day trip to Athabasca Falls crosses 
Buffalo Prairie and the Valley of the Lakes, passes the 
base of Mt. Cavell and reaches the falls at the base of Mt. 
Hardisty, "the greatest goat-breeding spot in the Rockies." 
At the falls the river is but 40 feet wide and plunges 100 
feet into a fine canyon. The night is spent at one of the 
Park Chalets, and the next day the trail is pursued down 
the west bank of the river to the crossing of the Whirlpool 
River, which has the unsavoury reputation of being the 
most treacherous creek in the mountains. The return to 
Jasper is by way of the Miette Bridge. 

A voyage of uncommon experiences employs 
canoes to go down the Athabasca River to Hinton 
(60 m.) or Whitecourt (170 m.), en route to 
Edmonton. Fellow-guests of the author at Jasper 
in the autumn of 1915, Dr. and Mrs. Stanley Cobb 
of Boston, give the following engaging report of 
this canoe run through the wilds: 

From Jasper to the head of Jasper Lake is a half day's 
run, and very beautiful with Mt. Cavell behind, the Maligne 
Valley on the right, and the Snaring River Valley on the 



498 THE TOURIST'S NORTHWEST 

left. The river is swift and exciting, but not at all dan- 
gerous. One of the finest sights is the northwest side of 
Pyramid Mountain, a mass of ice and snow, in sharp con- 
trast to the bare, sun-baked, southern exposure seen from 
farther up the river. The September foliage was won- 
derful — all the aspens had turned bright yellow, and as 
these trees grow only in protected places on the mountain- 
sides, every valley seemed brimming with molten gold, 
coursing down between the gray rocks to empty onto the 
lower slopes where gold and green mingled in the rolling 
foothills. 

Jasper Lake, which we crossed the next day, was broad 
and shallow, with sand bars, making navigation difficult 
even for canoes; it was hard work, but the view of Roche 
Miette, which stands up boldly at the lower end of the lake, 
is splendid. Then comes a two hours' run of swift water 
into the head of Brule Lake; the forest here is of large, 
hard-wood trees, with Roche Miette ever towering behind. 
Brule Lake is much like Jasper Lake, but if anything more 
beautiful, especially as one looks back from the far end. 
There we camped, and had a gorgeous sunset and full moon, 
which after dark shone ghostlike on the snow-fields of Roche 
Miette — the last real mountain we saw, for the next day 
the river plunged into the evergreen forests of the foot- 
hills, and thereafter we could only see the "backbone of 
the continent" by climbing up from the river to some high 
bank or butte. The water from the foot of Brule Lake to 
Hinton is fast, and in places exciting to run, but only one 
place is at all dangerous, and that is where the Canadian 
Northern crosses the river at a sharp turn. Here the 
water boils under the trestle and around the piers, but by 
keeping close to the right bank we made the passage with 
only a slight wetting from spray. At Hinton the Atha- 
basca has changed its character from a mountain torrent, 
to a swift river of the foothills, running between high clay 
banks, in places raw and naked where the current has 
undermined them, but in general thickly covered with small 
timber. Back from the river are undulating hills with 
occasional plateaux, most of which are unfortunately burned 
over, making a terrible tangle of deadfall and young growth. 

At Hinton, therefore, I would advise most people to end 
their trip, making the sixty odd miles of river in three or 
four days. Beyond this point the Athabasca turns away 
from civilisation, and runs through unbroken wilderness 
to the settlement at Whitecourt where we "pulled out." 
The one hundred and ten miles of river between Hinton 
and Whitecourt was swift, but easily navigable, except for 
a series of short choppy "pitches," where high waves made 
some danger. These are about ten or fifteen miles above 



PRINCE RUPERT TO EDMONTON 499 

the point where the river is crossed by the trail from Edson 
to Grand Prairie. 

For a hunter this trip below Hinton would be worth 
while during the open season on moose, for these animals 
abound, and seem quite fearless. We approached one big 
bull to within sixty yards; we also saw two bears, one of 
which we wounded but lost in the forest. Of small game 
there was a most surprising dearth; we saw only two flocks 
of duck during the whole trip, not more than fifteen grouse, 
and few rabbits. In fact, anyone relying on the country 
for his meat might easily have starved. The natives said 
it was a particularly bad year for grouse, and the scarcity 
of ducks was doubtless due to the fact that they stayed in 
the upland sloughs, back from the river. In November, 
when these still-waters are frozen, the ducks are said to 
resort to the river in plenty, but when one takes into con- 
sideration the thousands of ducks to be seen a hundred or 
two miles farther east in the prairie country, it seems 
strange that so few were observed along this river. Small 
forest birds were almost as scarce as game — in fact be- 
tween Hinton and Whitecourt we saw only a few Chica- 
dees, Kinglets and Juncos, so from an ornithologist's point 
of view, this wilderness was barren indeed. 

Whitecourt was a characteristic frontier town of home- 
steads, and the fifty-six mile drive into the railroad at 
Sangudo was interesting. This country, too, was heavily 
wooded, wild and abounding in moose, but desolate and 
monotonous beyond description. 

Jasper 7 — Miette Hot Springs — Edson — 
Edmonton. 

Eight miles east of Jasper the rails pass the site 
of Henry House on a low bench above the Atha- 
basca, and an hour's run further on, the aban- 
doned graves of Jasper House are sighted beside 
Jasper Lake. The territory lying between the 

7 Going either way between Jasper Park and Edmonton 
(234 m.), passengers by Grand Trunk Pacific tri-weekly 
expresses cover most of the journey after dark, trains 
leaving both stations about ten at night. The Canadian 
Northern transcontinental, which follows up the Thompson 
River from Kamloops and parallels the G. T. P. from near 
Tete Jaune (Cache) to Edmonton, passes over the route 
between Jasper and Alberta in the day, and gives a service 
three times a week. 



500 THE TOURIST'S NORTHWEST 

once busy posts witnessed many a lawless struggle 
between the rival fur gatherers a century ago. 
Jasper Lake (the broadened stream of the Atha- 
basca) and Fish Lake provide beautiful views 
either side the track between Interlaken and the 
station at Hawes. In retrospect the lakes make 
a rare picture with the savage pinnacles of the 
Fiddle Back Range rearing to the westward. 
Beyond Hawes the Rocky River and the wide- 
branching Stoney River come in from the south 
and the north. Between their confluence with the 
main stream and Miette Hot Springs station, the 
Athabasca meanders into half a dozen rambling 
channels, broken by islands, and over-watched by 
the serrated pile of Roche Miette (7500 ft.). At 
Pocahontas station travellers sometimes alight to 
follow the bridle path built by the Government 
to the canyon of the curiously out-poured Punch 
Bowl Falls, 3500 feet from the railway. Here 
the formation in the cliff is not unlike that sur- 
rounding the fall in Maligne Gorge. 

The Miette Hot Springs are in the hills 10 miles 
south of Brule Lake. At present they are 
reached by trail through the valley of Fiddle 
Creek. The canyon of the creek is in itself an 
attraction, being walled high with rugged preci- 
pices and marked by a turbulent disorder of rocks 
and pebbles. Eventually the sulphur springs, 
three in number, whose waters are almost taste- 
less and are said to be of higher temperature than 
those at Banff, will be developed by the Govern- 
ment and the railway, and imposing baths, sani- 
taria and hotels will rise on this sequestered 
height beneath the frown of Roche Miette. 

Skirting Brule Lake — the Athabasca in still an- 
other manifestation — Parkgate is approached be- 



PRINCE RUPERT TO EDMONTON 501 

tween Roche a Perdrix and Boule Roche Moun- 
tain. 

At the fortieth mile post from Jasper the Park 
bounds are crossed. Beyond Hinton the Atha- 
basca swerves to the north, the train descends an 
incline to Edson, continues down grade across a 
green plateau, borders Chip Lake and Waba- 
mun, 8 a favourite water-course of Alberta holiday- 
makers, and ten hours out from Jasper draws into 
Edmonton, perched high on the banks of the Sas- 
katchewan. 

Edmonton is that rara avis, a frontier town good 
to look at. Fine hills well timbered, stately 
bluffs, a far-famed river, are its scenic attributes. 
As a phenomenally fast growing centre of trade 
its streets show a lively prosperity — shops are 
good, buildings pretentious, a delectable hostelry 
graces the river-bank, residential avenues are 
adorned with tasteful and ambitious homes, and 
river-side boulevards are a-whirr with motor 
wheels. Moreover, Edmonton has culture. It is 
no prouder of its wholesale trade and expanding 
industries than of its Provincial University, its 
several secular institutions and its thirty public 
schools. Two possessions held dear by Edmon- 
tonians are " Janey Canuck" (Mrs. Arthur 
Murphy) and Mrs. Nellie McClung, known far 
beyond the Saskatchewan as sympathetic inter- 
preters of Canadian border life. 

And romance Edmonton has, stored in archives 
of the fur traders who stood sponsor at its chris- 
tening. Below the handsome Parliament Build- 

s Here the Canadian Northern turns northeast and a few 
miles further on makes its entry into Edmonton by way of 
St, Albert. 



502 THE TOURIST'S NORTHWEST 

ings, near the north side of the great bridge that 
crosses to Strathcona, is the hexagonal structure 
of white-washed logs, which symbolises the ancient 
regime, when " pickets and bastions and battle- 
mented gateways " guarded this route to the 
mountains by way of the Saskatchewan. Both 
the fur companies had collecting stations on these 
banks. The eighteenth-century relic now used as 
a Provincial store-house was the Hudson's Bay 
headquarters where pelts were gathered for de- 
spatch to Fort Garry. At that time, fox skins 
were rated at twenty-five to fifty cents each. 

Paul Kane, an American artist who travelled 
the western plains in the fifties, and wrote a book 
of his wanderings which now has great value in 
the eyes of bibliophiles, found at Edmonton House 
half a century ago " about a hundred and thirty 
people, who all live within the pickets of the fort." 
The motley assemblage was composed of factors, 
clerks, canoe travellers, Cree and Assiniboine 
traders, and Indian or half-breed squaws who 
spent their days making moccasins and clothing, 
and converting dried buffalo meat into w pim-mi- 
kon." The buffalo was hunted with ash spears 
ten feet long having iron heads, and with bows 
and arrows. Kane, in approaching Edmonton, 
saw the buffalo in " immense numbers ... we 
saw nothing else but these animals covering the 
plains as far as the eye could reach, and so nu- 
merous were they that at times they impeded our 
progress, filling the air with dust almost to suf- 
focation." 9 

9 These were not the progenitors of the thousand head of 
buffalo, "the largest herd in the world," which the Govern- 
ment has fenced in and fire-guarded at Buffalo Park, half 
a mile south of Wainwright, a station 126 miles east of 
Edmonton. The Wainwright herd is related to that at 



PRINCE RUPERT TO EDMONTON 503 

The Hudson's Bay Company and Revillon 
Freres, among the oldest established fur manufac- 
turers on any continent, have their Northwestern 
headquarters at Edmonton. If entry can be 
gained to the ware-rooms, the tourist will find 
much to interest him in the methods of handling 
and shipping raw and dressed pelts. Revillon 
Brothers issue gratuitously a fascinating quin- 
tette of booklets covering the firm's history and 
the conduct of its far north trading posts, served 
by light-draft river boats, flat six-oared freight 
boats, and horse and dog sledges. Other sub- 
jects briefly treated are fur-trapping in the north, 
the selection of furs, and their dressing and dye- 
ing. Concerning the art of dressing, the follow- 
ing quotation is made: 

In the raw-skin stage, a few weeks or months before, these 
same skins were anything but inviting. The leather was 
harsh and stained, the fur matted and soiled and the odour 
so unpleasant that few but accustomed handlers of furs 
would be willing to touch them. To reclaim for the human 
wearer the natural beauty of a skin, as it appears on the 
living animal, requires many skilled operations. ... A 
typical illustration of the way fine skins are dressed is 
furnished by the process of treating mink skins, from the 
time they reach the dressing establishment till they are 
ready to make up. 

The skins come in with the leather side turned out just 
as the trapper has stripped them from the animal. Skin- 
ning is itself a process requiring skill and experience as 
many an amateur trapper securing his first prize has found 
out to his cost. 

The mink skins are first scraped to rid them of bits of 
dried flesh and then given a preliminary treading in the 
foot tubs with butter, to supply more oil in which mink 
skins are somewhat deficient. With oily skins, like skunk, 
this preliminary treading is omitted. 

Treading skins in tubs is a picturesque and laborious 
process used from very early times, but no easier and 

Banff, and was transported from the Flathead plains of 
Montana. 



504 THE TOURIST'S NORTHWEST 

equally satisfactory method for leathering fine furs has 
ever been found to supersede it. The strongly made wooden 
tubs, reaching about waist high, stand in a long row — not 
flat on the floor, but tipped backward at a sharp angle. . . . 
During his working hours the skin treader lives like Dio- 
genes, entirely in his tub. . . . 

After this preliminary tubbing the mink skins are soaked 
over night in salt water to soften them for the fleshing 
machines (which clean the skin and reduce its thickness). 

After fleshing, the skins go back to the tubs for leathering. 
This process is simply prolonged treading in mahogany 
sawdust until the skin is as pliable as a finely woven fabric. 
At this stage they begin to assume something of their final 
beauty. They are flexible, the fur has taken on life and 
vigour, and to the inexperienced eye they look ready to 
make up. 

There remains, however, the process of cleaning in drums. 
The skins are placed with more sawdust in great wooden 
drum-shaped containers and revolved by power for several 
hours. With skins of light color the sawdust is changed 
several times to remove every particle of grease or grain 
of dust which could mar their delicate purity. After this 
final cleaning the skins are ready for the grader and sorter. 

Though the gathering and manipulation of furs 
is Edmonton's oldest industry, the city's future is 
founded upon the development of the agricultural 
and mining resources of the empire of which it is 
the commercial as well as the administrative capi- 
tal. In 1901, the city had a population of %6%5. 
Fifteen years later its civic census records give 
the number of its inhabitants as close on 70,000. 
Edmonton is mistress of four-fifths of Alberta's 
area, or about 200,000 square miles. Immigra- 
tion is trending to the north. Railways are pene- 
trating the Athabasca and Peace River Valleys 
and will eventually open up thousands of acres, 
fertile and well watered, to incoming settlers from 
Canada and from the United States. 

An absorbing phase of Edmonton history is 
bound up in the story of the Roman Catholic 
missionaries who first ministered to the Indians 



PRINCE RUPERT TO EDMONTON 505 

and half-breeds of this part of the Northwest 
three-quarters of a century ago. The rites of the 
Church were celebrated on the banks of the Sas- 
katchewan in 1838 by two French priests, who 
in travelling the prairies and mountains set up 
the cross at each camping-place, and baptised the 
natives dwelling about the Hudson's Bay posts. 
One priest, the Reverend F. N. Blanchet, later be- 
came the first Bishop of Oregon City. His com- 
panion, the Reverend Modeste Demers, was ap- 
pointed the first Bishop of Vancouver Island. 

In 1842, the pioneer mission of the Canadian 
Northwest was established on Lake St. Anne, west 
of Edmonton, by Father Thibault, who before be- 
ginning his journey afoot, in the saddle, and by 
ox-cart across the plains from Red River had 
mastered an aboriginal language similar to Cree. 
After ten years of heroic labour he was succeeded 
by a young cleric from Quebec, whose arrival at 
Fort Edmonton was greeted by a salute from the 
bastions. During the decade that followed, 
Father Albert Lacombe spent himself zealously in 
an effort to Christianise the warring Crees and 
Blackfeet, and constantly travelled to and fro 
in the wilderness, going by dog-team as far north 
as the Peace River. 

A History of the Catholic Churches and Missions 
in Central Alberta, compiled for private circula- 
tion by the Most Reverend Emile J. Legal, 
O'. M. I., Archbishop of Edmonton, relates the 
circumstances of the founding of the romantic 
Mission of St. Albert. In January, 1861, the 
Bishop of St. Boniface (Red River), on a visit 
to his remote foothill parishes, left Lake St. Anne 
with Father Lacombe. " About nine miles from 
Edmonton they stopped on a hill, at the foot of 



506 THE TOURIST'S NORTHWEST 

which flows the Sturgeon River. They cleared 
away the snow, lighted a fire and rested a while. 
It was there and then that Bishop Tache, after 
cutting down a young sapling, made a staff, and 
planting it firmly into the snow addressed his com- 
panion, thus : * Father Lacombe, here is the site 
of the new mission ! It shall be called by the name 
of your Holy Patron, St. Albert ! You will un- 
dertake the work as soon as possible, and you will 
found this new mission ! ' " 

On the spot where the staff was planted were 
laid the primitive foundations of the chapel which 
tourists go from Edmonton to see — a " poor 
hut, which even at its best allowed the snow and 
rain to enter it as their kingdom." About the 
chapel grew the mission buildings, the orphanage 
and school organised in 1863 by the Grey Nuns 
of Montreal, the house of the Oblate missionaries, 
the shops of shoemaker, carpenter and blacksmith 
conducted by lay brothers, the grist-mill, built by 
Father Lacombe's own hands, and the cabins of the 
half-breeds who stayed near the Mission in the in- 
tervals bebween their long buffalo hunts. 

The missionaries lived in a one-room log hut, 
the first Bishop's Palace at St. Albert. They 
u slept on shelves arranged like bunks at sea . . . 
with a beast's skin for covering." Pemmican, " a 
kind of pulverised meat mixed with fat, and com- 
pressed in skin sacks for ten or twelve months," 
was the staple food. 

Father Lacombe for his devotion to the Indians 
became known as their Apostle. The Blackfeet 
called him, Man-of-the-Good-Heart. He wrote a 
Cree Dictionary on Government grant, and made 
many translations in that language. In 1865 he 
left St. Albert to become a travelling missionary. 



PRINCE RUPERT TO EDMONTON 507 

In the years between then and now he has not 
ceased to give his great talents to the cause of 
Indian evangelisation and education, and, ap- 
proaching the age of ninety, has founded a home 
for poor of all ages at Midnapore, south of 
Calgary. 

In 1909, a concourse of celebrities of Church and 
State assembled at St. Albert to celebrate the six- 
tieth anniversary of the ordination of the " Black- 
robed Voyageur." Father Lacombe's biography 
has been well written by Katherine Hughes, who 
dwells with sympathy upon the honours paid him, 
and the remarkable achievements of his long and 
hallowed life — a life ever lit with the fires of 
humour and humanity. 

A new church and seminary building, and a com- 
modious Diocesan residence have succeeded the 
rude structures of frontier days at St. Albert. 
Visitors who make the pilgrimage to the hill-top 
community, and many illustrious visitors have 
come here in the past fifty years, are free to wan- 
der among the various buildings and to enter the 
historic Mother Cathedral. A nun in grey habit 
makes a tranquil picture sewing beneath a tree. 
Bearded, French-Canadian Oblates form animated 
groups on the shady walks. In the enclosure be- 
side the Archbishop's Palace a wrinkled Brother 
in moccasins and broad hat tends his roses and 
artichokes. If you find the proper word of praise 
for his immaculate borders, you may be rewarded 
with a flower. Beware, however, treading too 
close upon the path-lined beds, or Frere Letour- 
neur will scold you as he scolds the Archbishop if, 
in passing, his robes but graze a trim patch of 
the jealously nurtured garden. 



508 THE TOURIST'S NORTHWEST 

The Hudson's Bay Company issue a pamphlet detailing 
the route down the Athabasca, Peace and Mackenzie 
Rivers, the three sovereign waterways of the north, which 
once a season is open to the tourist as far as Fort 
McPherson, a few miles south of the Arctic Ocean. The 
Company may be addressed at Edmonton for yearly dates 
of sailing, steamer connections, cost, and duration of this 
many-sided trip into the realm of the fur trader and 
trapper. 

Edmonton - Calgary, 194 miles by Canadian Pacific; 242 
miles by Grand Trunk Pacific. 

Edmonton - Wainwright (Buffalo Park 126 m.) — Sas- 
katoon (326 m.) — Winnipeg (793 m.) — Minaki (901 m.) 

— Graham (junction for Fort William and Northern Navi- 
gation or Canadian Pacific Great Lakes steamers, 945 m.) 

— Cochrane (1569 m.) — North Bay (1822 m.) —Toronto 
2049 miles, in 3 days by the Transcontinental Line (see 
under "Transportation," Chapter XII). 

Edmonton - Saskatoon (311 m.) — Brandon (691 m.) — 
Winnipeg (827 m.) — Fort Frances (1034 m.) — Port 
Arthur (1265 m.) — Toronto, 2136 miles in 3 days by 
Canadian Northern. 

Trains over the Grand Trunk Pacific and Canadian North- 
ern lines run daily between Edmonton and Winnipeg, and 
tri-weekly beyond. 



TOURIST TOWNS AND RESORTS 

OF THE 

NORTHWEST 

POPULATION i — HOTELS 2 — BANKS 3 

(The presence of a British Consul or Consular Agent is 

designated thus*; an American Consul or 

Consular Agent thus f ) 



OREGON 

Albany; pop., 4600; hotel, Albany. 
Ashland; pop., 5500; hotel, Oregon. 
Astoria*; pop., 12,240; hotels, Merwyn, Occident. 
Baker; pop., 7500; hotels, Geiser Grand, Antlers. 
Bavocean; hotel, Bavocean. 
Bend; hotel, Pilot Butte Inn. 
Cottage Grove; pop., 1860; hotel, Cottage Grove. 
Crater Lake; hotels, Crater Lake Lodge, Camp Arant. 
Eugene; pop., 12,200; hotels, Osburn, Hoffman. 
Forest Grove; hotel, Michigan. 
Gearhart Beach; hotel, Gearhart. 

Grant's Pass; pop., 4600; hotels, Josephine, Camp at Jo- 
sephine Caves. 
Heppner; pop., 1000; hotel, Palace. 
Hillsboro; pop., 2550; hotels, Tualatin, Washington. 
Hood River; pop., 2500; hotels, Oregon, Mrs. Howe's hotel, 

1 According to civic estimate, 1915. 

2 The best hotels in principal cities are conducted on the 
European plan; in smaller towns, and at resorts and camps 
on the American plan. A few houses offer accommodation 
on both plans. European terms, $1 to $2 and up; Ameri- 
can plan, $2.50 to $5 and up. Furnished kitchenette apart- 
ments are to let in the principal cities by the day or week. 
See under " Hotels," Chapter II. 

s Banks are given only in the larger tourist centres. 
509 



510 THE TOURIST'S NORTHWEST 

cottages and tents at Cottage Farm. On north slope 
of Mount Hood, Mount Hood Lodge and Cloud Cap 
Inn. 

Joseph (Wallowa Lake) ; inn for tourists and sportsmen. 

Klamath Falls; pop., 4080; hotels, White Pelican, Hall. 

Lakeview; pop., 1390; hotel, Lakeview. 

McMinnville; pop., 2900; hotels, Elberton, YamhilL 

Medford; pop., 11,000; hotels, Barnum, Medford. 

Newport; hotel, Abbey. 

Oregon City; pop., 4840; hotel, Electric. 

Pelican Bay, Klamath Lake; hotel, Harriman Lodge and 
cabins. 

Pendleton; pop., 4980; hotels, Bowman, New Pendleton. 

Portland*; pop., 255,700; hotels, Benson, Portland, Im- 
perial, Multnomah, Perkins, Nortonia. Furnished 
rooms and apartments for transients at the Wheel- 
don Annex and Alexandra Court; banks, First Na- 
tional, Ladd and Tilton, U. S. National, Lumbermen's 
National. 

Prineville; pop., 1150; hotel, Prineville. 

Riddle; hotel, Riddle. 

Rowe P. O. (west slope of Mt. Hood) ; hotels, Rhododen- 
dron Tavern, Government Camp. Other inns at 
Welches, Tawney's and Arrah Wannah. 

Roseburg; pop., 5000; hotel, Umpqua. 

Salem; pop., 18,500; hotel, Marion. 

Seaside Beach; hotels, Moore, Holladay. 

The Dalles; pop., 5500; hotel, Umatilla. 

Tillamook; pop., 1490; hotel, Todd. 

Troutdale ; hotel, sportsman's inn on the road to Mt. Adams. 

WASHINGTON 

Aberdeen; pop., 18,400; hotel, Washington. 

Anacortes; pop., 5250; hotel, Taylor. 

Bellingham; pop., 30,500; hotels, Leopold, Laube. 

Blaine; pop., 2550; hotels, Del Monte, Blaine. 

Brewster; hotel, Gamble. 

Castle Rock; station for camp at Spirit Lake, at base of 

Mt. St. Helens. 
Centralia; pop., 8160; Centralia, Wilson. 
Chehalis; pop., 4800; hotel, St. Helens. 
Chelan; two small hotels at the foot of the lake. At the 

head of Lake Chelan (Stehekin), Hotel Field. 
Cohassett Beach; summer hotels. 
Colfax; pop., 3050; hotel, Colfax. 
Eatonville; hotel, Lakeside Inn. 
Ellensburg; pop., 4700; hotel, Antlers. 
Everett; pop., 32,700; hotel, Mitchell. 



TOURIST TOWNS AND RESORTS 511 

Friday Harbor, San Juan Islands; hotel here and at other 
villages and summer resorts in the archipelago. 

Glacier (foot of Mt. Baker); inn. 

Goldendale; hotel, Central. 

Hood Canal (by steamer from Seattle) ; many hotels and 
summer camps along this waterway, at Duckabush, 
Quilcene, etc. 

Hoquiam; pop., 10,650; hotels, Grayport, New York. 

Index; summer hotels. 

Kalama; hotel, Kalaina. 

KennewiCk; pop., 1350; hotel, Kennewick. 

La Grande; hotel, Canyada Lodge. 

Lake Crescent; hotels, Tavern, Ovington's. 

Lake Cushman; summer inn. 

Lake Keechelus ; hotel, Lake Keechelus Inn and tents (C. M. 
& St. P. R'y). 

Lake Quiniault; camps and log hotels. 

Long Beach; summer hotels, boarding-houses and cottages. 

Marcus; hotel, Columbia. 

Medical Lake; pop., 1900; hotel, Medical Lake. 

Mineral; hotel, Mineral Lake Inn. 

Moclips; summer hotels and cottages. 

Nahcotta; summer hotels and cottages here and at neigh- 
bouring resorts on North Beach. 

Newport; pop., 1310; hotel, Martin. 

North Yakima; pop., 18,900; hotels, Commercial, Tieton, 
Yakima. 

Olympia; pop., 7600; hotel, Mitchell. 

Oroville; hotel, Hotel de Grubb. 

Pacific Beach; summer hotels and cottages. 

Pasco; pop., 2290; hotels, Cunningham, Pasco. 

Port Angeles*; pop., 2510; hotel, Commercial. 

Port Townsend*; pop., 4610; hotels, Centralia, Delmonico. 

Rainier National Park; hotels, National Park Inn, Long- 
mire's. Tent Camps at Indian Henry's Hunting- 
ground, and Paradise Valley. 

Scenic; hotel, Scenic Hot Springs (G. N. R'y). 

Seattle*; pop., 319,000; hotels, New Washington, Perry, 
Frye, Rainier-Grand, Savoy, Butler, Sorrento, Lin- 
coln, Seattle. Furnished apartments for transients 
at the McKay Apartment Hotel, 7th and Pike Streets; 
banks, Dexter Horton National, Seattle National, 
First National, National Bank of Commerce. 

Snohomish; pop., 3570; hotel, Penobscot. 

Sol Due; hotel, Sol Due Hotel and Sanitarium. 

South Bend; pop., 4080; hotel, Albee. 

Spokane; pop., 136,500; hotels, Davenport, Spokane, Rid- 
path, Victoria, Fairmont; banks, Exchange National, 
Old National. 



512 THE TOURIST'S NORTHWEST 

Sumas; hotel, Swail. 

Tacoma; pop., 103,600; hotels, Tacoma, Donnelly, Mason; 

bank, National Bank of Tacoma. 
Vancouver; pop., 12,150; hotel, Columbia. 
Walla Walla; pop., 23,700; hotels, Grand, Dacres. 
Wenatchee; pop., 4480; hotels, Wenatchee, Elman. 
Whidbey Island (steamer from Everett); summer hotels 

and boarding-houses. 
White Salmon; hotels, The Eyrie, Jewett's Farm. 

IDAHO 

Bonner's Ferry; hotels, Idaho, West. 
Coeur d'Alene; hotels, Antler, Idaho. 
Hayden .Lake; hotel and cabins. 
Lewiston; pop., 6300; hotel, Bollinger. 
Moscow; pop., 4100; hotel, Idaho. 
Priest River; camps. 
Sand Point; hotel, Idaho. 
Wallace; pop., 3570; hotel, Ryan. 

MONTANA 

Glacier National Park; hotels, Glacier Park, Many Glacier, 
Two Medicine Chalets, Cut Bank Chalets, St. Mary 
Chalets, Going-to-the-Sun Chalets, Gunsight Chalets, 
Sperry Chalets, Many Glacier Chalets, Granite Park 
Chalets, Belton Chalets. Tepee Camps at the foot of 
St. Mary Lake, at the head of St. Mary Lake, at Lake 
McDermott. 

Kalispell; hotel, Kalispell. 

BRITISH COLUMBIA 

Alberni, V. I.; hotels, Alberni, Arlington. 

Ashcroft; pop., 800; hotels, Grand Central, Ashcroft. 

Atlin; pop., 350; hotel, Royal. 

Balfour; hotel, Kootenay Lake (C. P. R.). 

Brentwood, V. I. (12 miles from Victoria) ; hotel, Brent- 
wood. 

Cameron Lake, V. I.; hotel, Cameron Lake Chalet (C. 
P. R.). 

Campbell River, V. I.; hotel, The Willows. 

Chamainus, V. I.; hotels, Horseshoe Bay, Lewisville. 

Chilliwack; pop., 2000; hotels, Empress, Royal. 

Courtenay, V. I.; pop., 800; hotels, Riverside, Courtenay. 

Cowichan Lake, V. I.; hotels, Riverside, Cowichan. 

Cranbrook; pop., 3090; hotels, Cranbrook, Cosmopolitan, 
Royal. 



TOURIST TOWNS AND RESORTS 513 

Creston; pop., 600; hotels, Creston, King George. 

Duncan, V. I.; pop., 1500; hotels, Tzouhalem, Quamichan. 

Esquimalt, V. I.; pop., 4700; hotels, Coach and Horse, 
Esquimalt. 

Fernie; pop., 4000; hotels, Napanee, Fernie. 

Field; pop., 300; hotels, Mount Stephen House (C. P. R.); 
Emerald Lake Chalet (C. P. R.). 

Glacier; pop., 45; hotel, Glacier House (C. P. R.). 

Golden; hotels, Columbia, Queen's. 

Goldstream, V. I.; pop., 1100; hotel, Goldstream. 

Halcyon Hot Springs (upper Arrow Lake) ; hotel, Hal- 
cyon Hot Springs and villas. 

Harrison Hot Springs (Agassiz station) ; hotel, St. Alice. 

Huntington; pop., 250; hotels, Alexandra, Huntington. 

Invermere (Windermere Lake, Athalmer station); hotel, 
Stark's hotel. 

Kamloops; pop., 6000; hotel, Leland. 

Kaslo; pop., 1200; hotels, Kaslo, King George. 

Kelowna; pop., 3097; hotels, Lakeview, Palace. 

Lillooet; pop., 500; hotels, Excelsior, Victoria. Mrs. 
Craig's Camp, Cayoosh Creek. 

Merritt; pop., 2000; hotels, Adelphi, Coldwater. 

Midway; hotels, Midway, Crowell. 

Mission; pop., 1300; hotels, Belleview, Matsqui. 

Nakusp; pop., 475; hotels, Leland, Grand. 

Nanaimo, V. I.; pop., 8420; hotel, Windsor. 

Naramata; pop., 400; hotels, Syndica, Naramata. 

Nelson; pop., 7500; hotels, Strathcona, Hume. 

New Westminster; pop., 20,000; hotel, Russell. 

North Bend; pop., 250; hotel, Fraser Canyon. 

Oak Bay, V. I. (see Victoria). 

Penticton; pop., 3000; hotels, Incola (C. P. R.), Penticton. 

Port Alberni, V. I.; pop., 1250; hotels, Somass, Beaufort. 

Prince George; pop., 2500; hotels, Fort George, Northern. 

Prince Rupert; pop., 6500; hotels, Prince Rupert, Royal, 
Savoy, Bay View, The Samovar Tea Rooms (also 
breakfast, lunch and dinner), Fourth Street; banks, 
Montreal, Commerce, British North America, Royal, 
Union. 

Princeton; pop., 900; hotels, Similkameen, Tulameen. 

Qualicum Beach, V. I.; hotel, Qualicum Inn. 

Revelstoke; pop., 4000; hotels, Revelstoke, King Edward. 

Rossland; pop., 3500; hotel, Allen. 

Salmon Arm; pop., 3500; hotel, Montebello. 

Shawnigan Lake, V. I.; hotels, Strathcona Lodge, Koenig's. 

Sicamous; pop., 75; hotel, Hotel Sicamous (C. P. R.). 

Sidney; pop., 600; hotel, Rest Haven. 

Sooke Harbor, V. I.; hotel, Sooke Harbor. 

Stewart (Portland Canal) ; hotels, Empress, King Edward. 



514 THE TOURIST'S NORTHWEST 

Summerland; pop., 1800; hotel, Summerland. 

Union Bay, V. I.; hotel, Wilson. 

Vancouver f ; pop., 207,000 ; hotels, Vancouver, Glencoe 
Lodge, Elysium, Castle, Lotus, St. Francis, Gros- 
venor. Furnished apartments for transients at Royal 
Alexandra Apartments, 1086 Bute Street; banks, 
Commerce, Montreal, British North America, Royal, 
Molsons Nova Scotia. 

Vernon; pop., 3500; hotels, Kallemalka, Royal. 

Victoria, V. I.f ; pop., 65,000; hotels, Empress (C. P. R.), 
Dallas, King Edward, Glenshiel, Oak Bay; banks, 
Commerce, Montreal, British North America, Royal, 
Nova Scotia. 

ALBERTA 

Athabasca Landing; hotels, Athabasca, Grand Union. 

Banff; pop., 1200; hotels, Banff Springs Hotel (C. P. R.), 
Sanitarium, King Edward, Mount Royal; bank, 
Imperial. 

Calgary f ; pop., 81,161; hotels, Palliser (C. P. R.), Braemar 
Lodge, Alberta; banks, Commerce, Montreal, British 
North America, Royal, Nova Scotia. 

Edmonton; pop., 76,243; hotels, The Macdonald (Grand 
Trunk Pacific), Selkirk, King Edward, Cecil, Blue 
Moon Tea Rooms; banks, Commerce, Montreal, Brit- 
ish North America, Royal, Nova Scotia. 

Jasper; hotel, Tent Camp (3 miles from station). 

Lake Louise; pop., 100; hotel, Chateau Lake Louise (C. P. 
R.). Moraine Lake Fishing Camp (9 m.) 

Macleod; pop., 2000; hotels, American, Queens. 

Medicine Hat; pop., 15,288; hotels, American, Assiniboia, 
Cecil. 

Peace River Crossing; hotel, Peace. 

Wainwrighi; hotel, Wainwright. 



INDEX 



Abbott, Philip, 451. 
Abernathy, George, 135. 
Adams Lake, 413, 417. 
Agassiz, 317, 322, 405. 
Agate Carnival, 133. 
Agriculture, 241-2, 249, 482, 

484-5. 
Alaska, 163, 164, 281, 370, 
471. 

gateway of, 164. 
Alaska - Yukon Exposition 

Grounds, 171-2. 
Alberni, 319, 397. 
Alberni Canal, 387, 397, 

398. 
Albert Canyon, 429, 430. 
Alberta, 289-508. 

cuisine, 332-6. 

festivals, 361. 

hotels, 324-32. 

sports, 337-61. 
Alki Point, 161. 
Allen, S. E. S., 351. 
Allen, Tom, 117. 
American Board of Foreign 
Missions, 244-5, 246. 

Colony, first, 66. 

Lake, 217. 

Switzerland, 350-5. 
Amusements and festivals, 

49-53. 
Any ox, 306, 307, 311, 312, 470. 
Apples, 95-6. 

"Apple Way," 259-60, 261. 
Argonauts, 175, 409. 
Arrowhead, 413, 417 c 
Arrow Lakes, 304, 309, 314, 

413, 415, 416-18. 
Arctic Ocean, 305, 426. 
Ashcroft, 316, 317, 322, 408, 

410. 
Ashford, 217, 218, 219. 



515 



Ashland, 138, 143-5. 
Assiniboine Mountain, 462. 
Astor, John Jacob, 60, 104, 

120, 121-2, 254. 
Astoria, 60, 63, 103, 118, 

120-4, 132, 233, 254. 
Asulkan Glacier, 433. 

Pass, 433. 
Athabasca, Landing, 305. 
Pass, 416, 491. 
River, 491, 492, 493, 497. 
Valley, 491, 492, 494. 
Athalmer station, 439. 
Atlin, B. C, 306, 312, 317, 
472. 
Lake, 312, 317, 471-2, 
482. 
Avalanche Mountain, 430, 

433. 
Ayres, W. S., 436. 

Babine Range, 482. 
Baby, first American, 245. 
Bad River, 487. 
Bainbridge Island, 174, 175. 
Baker, 115-6. 
Doctor, 249. 
Baker's Bay, 123. 
Baloo Pass, 437. 
Bamfield, 398. 
Bandon, 133. 
Banff, 295, 303, 304, 309, 

311, 314, 315, 321, 322, 

367, 404, 449, 450, 451, 

452-65. 
Bankhead, 463. 
Banks, 509-14. 
Barkerville, 316. 
Baths, 457. 
Bay City, 231, 2. 
Beaches, 124-6, 177, 189, 

229-33, 411. 
Bears, 338, 339, 342. 



516 



INDEX 



Beaverfoot Mountain, 441. 
Beaver Marshes, 486. 
Bellingham, 199-200, 203- 

209. 
Benson, Simon, 92. 
Berg Lake, 488, 489. 
Bering, Vitus, 362. 
Berries, 96, 129-31. 
Big Bend, 241, 258, 264, 415. 
game, 338, 339, 342, 423, 

471. 
Horn, 340-1, 461. 
Black Canyon, 408. 
Blanchet, Reverend F. N., 

505. 
Blanket factory, 110. 
Blue Mountains, 113, 116, 

241, 250. 
"Bohunk" robbers, 483. 
Bonner's Ferry, 264-5. 
Borden Glacier, 480. 
Boston Bar, 407. 
Boule Roche Mountain, 501. 
Boundaries, 61, 203, 418, 

492. 
Bow, Falls, 457. 
Pass, 452, 455. 
River, 449, 454, 455, 456, 

461, 463. 
Valley, 449, 455, 460. 
Brazeau River, 452. 
Bremerton Navy Yard, 174- 

5. 
British Columbia, 201, 240, 
253, 263, 291-508. 
climate and seasons, 321- 

3. 
cuisine, 332-6. 
festivals, 361. 
hotels, 324-32. 
money, 319-20. 
motorways, 315-9. 
postage, 321. 
sports, 337-61. 
tours, 308-13. 
tourist bureaux, 313. 
Broughton, Lieutenant, 97, 

235. 
Bruce Mountain, 439. 



Buffalo, 267, 458-9, 502. 

Park, 502. 

prairies, 263. 
Building, L. C. Smith, 162, 

168. 
Bulkley River, 4-82, 483. 
Burgess Pass, 445. 
Burrard Inlet, 374, 378, 382. 

Cabs and street cars, 18, 72, 

73, 79, 88, 183, 314. 
Cairnes, Dr. D. D., 476. 
Calapooia Mountains, 138. 
Californian,, 136. 
California Star, 136. 
Calgary, 263, 295-7, 303-4, 
308-10, 315, 367, 403, 
404, 414, 463-5. 
Cameron Lake, 319, 396, 397. 
Camping, 217, 239, 357-8, 

437, 474, 488. 
Canadian Cordillera, 427-9. 

Highway, 319. 
Canadian Northwest, 291- 
508. 
chronology, 362-72. 
cuisine, 332-7. 
hotels, 323-32. 
Rockies, 292, 293, 297, 
304, 308, 309, 321, 351. 
sports, 337-61. 
steamers, 303-7. 
Canneries, 120, 122, 205, 

337-50, 377. 
Cape Blanco, 133. 
Disappointment, 123, 233. 
Mendocino, 133. 
Capilano Canyon, 378-80. 
Carbon Glacier, 224. 

River, 216, 217. 
Cariboo gold-fields, 317, 406. 

Mines, 409, 485. 
Cariboo, Y. T., 472. 
Caribou, 338, 339. 
Carver, Jonathan, 58. 
Cascade, Creek, 451. 

Range, 87, 89, 94, 107, 129, 
137, 150, 179, 184-8, 191, 
201, 278, 353, 456. 



INDEX 



517 



tunnel, 193. 
"trough," 463. 
Cassiar (see Telegraph 

Creek). 
Castle Rock, 233-4, 235. 
Cathedral Mountain, 442. 
Catholic fathers, 84. 
Cattle raising, 267. 
Cavell, Edith, 492. 
Caves, Josephine County, 

139-142, 143. 
Cayuse War, 101, 248. 
Celilo Locks, 241. 
Centralia, 229, 234, 235. 
Central Oregon, 103-6, 137. 

Highway, 104. 
Chaboneau, Toussaint, 75. 
Chamberlain, President, 294. 
Champoeg, 84, 85, 86. 
Charles III, 399. 
Chase, Salmon P., 180. 
Chatham, 175, 177. 
Chehalis, River, 229, 230, 

234, 235. 
Valley, 229-30. 
Chelan, 193, 194, 195, 196, 

198. 
Childs Glacier, 430. 
"Chinooks," 322. 
Chronology, American 

Northwest, 54-65. 
Canadian Northwest, 

362-72. 
United States Rockies, 

268-71. 
Clackamas, 79, 80. 
Clark, William, 59, 76, 91. 
Clatskanie, 119. 
Clayoquot, 322. 
Climate and seasons, 26-9, 

96, 144-5, 193, 321-3, 

475. 
Cloudcap, Bay, 152. 
Coal mining, 420, 423, 424, 

463. 
Coast Range, 129, 132, 428, 

469, 477, 478. 
Coeur d'Alene, 255, 259, 261. 
Coleman, A. P., Dr., 281, 

489. 



Colorado, Canyon, 195. 

River, 90. 
Columbia, 59. 
Columbia, Basin, 184-8. 

Crest, 221. 

Department of the, 237. 

Highway, 88-98, 119. 

Ice field, 354. 

Valley, 244-5, 315, 491. 
Columbia River, 87-126, 132, 
234-7, 242-3, 304, 406, 
408, 414, 420, 425. 

Discovery of, 58-60. 
Colvalli, 422, 440. 
Consolation Lake, 450. 
Cook, Captain, 56-7, 363, 

390. 
Coos Bay, 132, 133. 
Coquilla Valley, 133. 
Corvallis, 132. 

Cougar Creek, 339, 434, 
435. 

Valley, 434. 
Cow Creek Canyon, 139. 
Cowlitz, 234. 

Glacier, 221, 223. 

River, 226. 
Craigellachie, 414. 
Cranbrook, 422, 440. 
Crater Lake, 143, 146, 153-9. 

Geological History of, 
149. 

National Park, 145-159. 
Cree dictionary, 506. 
Crescent City, 139. 
"Crest of the World," 424. 
Crown Colony, 370, 377. 

Crown Point, 89-91. 
Crow's Nest Pass, 304, 417, 

423. 
Cuisine, 35-7, 332-6. 
Customs, 6-7, 303, 318. 

Dalles City, Methodist set- 
tlement, 101. 

wool shipment, 101. 

The, 88-103, 106-7, 187. 
Dam, irrigation, 464. 
Dawson, Y. T., 312. 



518 



INDEX 



Day, John, 104-5. 
Death Rapids, 416. 
Delphine Mountain, 439. 
Demers, Reverend Modeste, 

505. 
Denny, Arthur A., 161, 162, 

172. 
Deschutes, River, 229. 

Valley, 104-5. 
Deutschman, C. H., 436. 
Devonian period, 436. 
Diller, J. S., 149, 151. 
Discoveries, Spanish, 207. 
Discovery, 175, 177. 
Divide, Great, 271-2, 423, 

433, 447, 448, 492-501. 
Dixon, Captain, 370. 
Dominion Geological Sur- 
vey, 476. 

Land Survey, 442. 

Museum, 457-8. 

National Park, 424. 
Douglas, David, 491. 

Governor James, 370, 390, 
486-7. 
Doukhobor lands, 419. 
Drake, Sir Francis, 363. 
Dry Belt, 408-9. 
Duluth, 294, 298, 300. 
Duncan, Father, 469-70. 

Eagle Mountain, 222, 430. 

Pass, 414. 

River, 414. 
Eastern Oregon, 106-126. 
Edmonton, 295, 296, 303-9, 
321-3 367, 410, 499, 
501-8. 

Parliament Building, 501. 

population, 504. 

Provincial University, 501. 
Elizabeth, Queen, 363. 
Elk River, 423. 
Emerald Lake, 441, 442, 
444, 445. 

Peak, 445. 
Emmons, S. F., 221. 
Engineer Mine, 472. 
Esquimalt, 305, 393, 394. 
Eugene, 132, 134. 137, 138, 
155. 



Eureka, 134. 
Everett, 189-209. 
Excursions, 172-4, 189-203. 
Expedition, Lewis and 

Clark, 59-60. 
Exploration and discovery, 

American, 58, 59, 207. 

Chinese, 55. 

English, 56-7, 58. 

Japanese, 55. 

Spanish, 54, 58, 207, 472- 
3. 
Explorers, 362-372, 472-3. 



Fairholme Range, 460, 463. 
Farnham Mountain, 439. 
" Father Pat," 419. 
Fay, Professor Charles E., 

351, 353. 
Fernie, 423. 
Field, 295, 304, 403, 404, 

441-52. 
First American Pacific set- 
tlement, 120. 
Fishing, 122, 137, 153, 155, 
200, 205, 206, 233, 257, 
337-50, 469, 477, 484. 
Flathead Range, 458, 9. 
Florence, 132. 

Forests, 137, 190, 474, 486. 
Formation of mountains, 

426-9. 
Fort Canby, 123, 233. 

Chippewayan, 365. 

Frances, 300, 301. 

George, 486, 487. 

McLeod, 406. 

McPherson, 305. 

Rock, 158-9. 

Steilacoon, 221. 

Stevens, 123. 

St. James, 486. 

Wright, 253, 257. 

Yale, 406. 
Fraser Canyon, 403, 404, 

405, 406. 

River, 90, 220, 322, 369, 

406, 487, 490. 

Simon, 406, 408, 486, 487, 



INDEX 



619 



Fremont, Lieutenant J. C, 
106, 118, 157, 246. 

Freshfield group, 452. 

Fruit industry, 95-6, 107, 
130, 230, 251, 412-13. 

Fur trading, 120-2, 366, 406, 
485-6. 

Game, 338, 339, 340-3, 423, 

471. 
Gateway, Montana, 422. 
General information, 1-28, 

291-323. 
" Gentlemen Adventurers," 

470. 
Geological, The Survey, 149, 

151. 
George III, 57, 189, 370. 
Georgian Bay, 292. 
German Federation, 203. 
Giants' Steps, 449. 
Gilmour, Dr. Andrew J., 

352, 493. 
Glacial period, 283, 427-9, 

476-7. 
Glacier, B. C, 295, 304, 309, 

310, 314, 316, 322, 403, 

404, 429-38. 
National Park, 263-6, 

267-87, 423, 424, 433. 
Peak, 149, 151, 191, 192, 

198. 
Glaciers, 217, 220-5, 277, 

281-3, 313, 414, 428-38, 

442, 444, 446, 452. 
Explorations, 269-70. 
Glass Buttes, 159. 
44 Goat's Looking-Glass," 

450. 
Going-to-the Sun, 268, 273, 

276, 279, 280, 284. 
Gold deposits and mining, 

63, 143, 163, 252, 255, 

370, 381-2, 406, 409, 420, 

471, 472. 
Range, 354, 414, 415. 
Golden, 315, 316, 437-4.7. 

Eagle, 341. 
Gopher Bridge Series, 434. 
Gordon Glacier, 416. 



Gorge Series, 434, 435. 
Government Baths, 457, 460. 

Experimental Farm, 204. 

Observatory, 456. 

Park, 319. 
Graham Island, 472, 474, 

475. 
Grand Fork River, 488. 

Valley, 488. 
Grant Peak, 207, 208. 

Ulysses S., 101, 203, 228, 
237. 
Grant's Pass, 138, 139, 140, 

142. 
Gray, Captain, 58-9. 

Nuns, of Montreal, 506. 
Gray's Harbor, 229-31. 
Great Britain, 243. 

Divide, 271-2, 423, 433, 
447, 448, 492-501. 

Glacier, 430, 433. 

Lakes, 294, 298, 300. 
Greeley, Horace, 426. 
Grinnell, Dr. George Bird, 

269-70, 279. 
de Groseillers, Medard, 366. 
"Grumbling Caves," 436-7. 
Guardia Civile of Spain, 

371. 
Gunsight Lake, 280. 

Pass, 271, 273, 279, 280. 

Haida, 472. 

Nation, 385, 472, 473, 474, 
481. 
Halcyon Peak, 417-18. 
Hand-press, 135-137. 
Hanley, "Bill," 116-8. 
Harbor Country, 229-33, 234. 
"Hard Scrubble," 480. 
Harney Valley, 116-7. 
Harriman, E. H., 154. 
Hays, President, 294. 
Hazelton, 475, 479. 
Hecate Strait, 472. 
Heceta, Captain Bruno, 56, 
57, 58, 132, 363, 364. 

Head, 132. 
Hector, 446, 447, 
Helena, 363, 



520 



INDEX 



Hell Gate, 407. 
Hercules mine, 255. 

Pillars of, 91. 
Hermit Range, 430. 
Highway, Canadian, 319. 
Central, 104. 
Columbia, 88-98, 119. 
National Park, 263. 
Olympic, 178, 229. 
Pacific, 137, 143, 165, 208, 

229, 234, 318. 
Palouse, 252. 
Sunset, 174, 259. 
Hill, Louis W., 271-2. 

Samuel, 88-9, 240. 
Himes, George H., 70-1, 

135. 
Holoway, Professor E. W. 

D., 352, 353, 493. 
Hood Canal, 175-7, 178, 229, 
381 
River, 95, 96, 98, 101. 
Hop lands, 129-30. 
Hoquiam, 230, 231. 
" Hornet's Nest," 480. 
Horse Thief trail, 439. 
Hotels, 29-35, 324-32, 509- 

14. 
Howard, General O. O., 114. 
Howe Sound, 307, 378, 381. 
Hudson Strait, 366. 
Hudson's Bay, 301, 366. 
Company, 60, 63, 80, 203, 
220, 229, 235, 236, 243, 
244, 254, 258, 366-7, 368, 
369, 370-1, 410, 464, 470, 
478, 491, 503. 
Hunt, Wilson, 104-5. 
Hunting, 337-50, 439. 

fishing licenses, 37-42. 
Hydraulic Summit, 414. 

Ice Age, 283. 

fields, 354. 
Idaho Lakes, 261-6. 
Illecillewaet, 416, 417. 

River, 316, 429. 
Index, 191, 192. 
Indian burial ground, 101, 
119, 301, 



colony, 469-70, 481. 
reservations, 111, 113, 115, 
153-4, 174, 214, 231, 
239, 258, 267, 269, 272. 
squaws, 502. 

tribes. 75, 76, 93, 94, 111, 
114, 115, 139, 142, 143, 
144, 153, 154, 162, 210, 
230, 231, 239, 248, 267, 
268, 280, 284, 338, 384, 
385, 386, 472, 474, 481, 
502, 505, 506. 
wars, 248, 252-3, 399-401. 
Interior region, 477, 481. 
Iron Mountain, 437. 
Irrigation, 179, 186, 251, 409, 

464. 
Irvine, Reverend Henry, 

419. 
Island Drive, 319. 
"Isle of Sepulture," 101. 
Isom, Mary Frances, 72. 

Jack Lake, 494, 496-9. 

Jacksonville, 140, 143. 

James I, 366. 

"Janey Canuck," 59. 

Jasper, 321, 326, 475-95, 
499-500. 
Park, 314, 323, 416, 492. 

"Jasper's House," 491-2. 

Jeffers, Leroy, 431-2. 

Jefferson, President Thom- 
as, 59, 120. 

Jervis Inlet, 382-3, 384. 

Uessup Narth Pacific Ex- 
pedition, 214. 

Jewitt, John R., 400-2. 

Jobe, Miss, 353. 

John Day River, 104, 120. 

Johnson, Pauline, 376. 

Joseph, Chief, 114-5. 

Jumbo Mountain, 439. 

Juneau, 306. 

Kaien Island, 466. 
Kalama, 233-^, 235. 
Kamiah Valley, 251. 
Kamloops, 235, 295, 296, 309, 
322, 410, 485. 



INDEX 



521 



Kananaskis Lakes, 462, 463. 

Range, 455. 
Kane, Paul, 502. 
Kautz, Lieutenant, 221. 
Kelliher, B. B., 293, 294. 
Kelowna. 411, 414. 
Kelso, 233, 234, 235. 
Kerr Notch, 149. 
Ketchikan, 306. 
Kettle, John, 230. 

Valley, 405, 408, 413. 
Kicking Horse Canyon, 
441. 

Pass, 294. 

River, 438, 441, 442, 443, 
444, 447. 
Kincaid, H. R., 136. 
King William, 236. 
Kinney, Reverend George, 

352. 
Kitselas Canyon, 478-9. 
Kitsumgallum River, 476, 

477, 478. 
Kitwanga, 481. 
Klamath Basin, 143, 155. 

Falls, 153-159. 

Fort, 146, 153, 154. 

Lake, 153, 154. 
Klickitat River, 240. 

Valley, 240. 
Klondvke, 163, 316, 472. 
Kootenay, 263, 304, 305, 405, 
423. 

Lake,*264, 418-21. 

River, 264, 418, 423, 425, 
440. 

Valley, 322. 
Kwinitsa River, 478. 

Lacombe, Father Albert, 

505-7. 
La Grande, 113-5. 
Lake Adolphus, 489. 

Athabasca, 365. 

Harrison, 405. 

Helena, 488. 

Louise, 295, 304, 314, 315, 
322, 404, 447-63. 

McDonald, 270-274, 284. 

of the Woods, 300. 

Washington, 171, 173. 



Windermere, 438-40. 
Lakes in the Clouds, 448-52, 
Lancaster, Samuel C, 89. 
"Land of Souls," 424. 
Land speculation, 467-8, 

470. 
Lane, General Joseph, 62, 

142. 
Language, 25-6. 
Larch Valley, 450. 
Laurier, Sir Wilfred, 291. 
Lee, Reverend Jason, 127, 

236. 
Lewis, Meriwether, 59-60. 
and Clark expedition, 59- 

60, 74, 75, 76, 101, 120, 

252, 253. 
Lewiston. 103, 251. 
Licenses, 37-42, 337. 
Lillooet, 306, 370, 381, 408, 

485. 
Lincoln, Abraham, 62, 180. 
Livermore, Lot, 110. 
Local railway and steamer 

lines, 7-15. 
Long Lake, 258, 259. 
Longmire, John, 220. 

Springs, 218, 226. 
Louise Alberta, H. R. H. 

Princess, 371. 
Louisiana Purchase, 59. 
Lumber industry, 190. 
Lytton, 316, 406, 407. 

McArthur Lake, 446. 
McClung, Mrs. Nellie, 501. 
McDonald, Sir John, 273. 
McLaughlin, Dr. John, 61, 
80, 81, 82, 83, 84, 235, 
236, 368, 369, 390. 
Mackenzie, Alexander, 365, 
487. 
Pass 137. 

Rive'r, 131, 137, 305, 365. 
Mackinac Island, 294, 298. 
Macleod, 304, 311, 315, 424. 

Colonel, 464. 
Malheur County, 117-8. 
Maligne Lake, 452, 493, 494, 
495-6. 
River, 492, 493, 495. 



522 



INDEX 



Manito Park, 257. 
Manitou Rapids, 301. 
Marquis of Lome, 371. 
Massett, 472, 473, 474, 

475. 
Mathewson, Farquhar, 313. 
Mazama Club, 150. 
Mead, Governor, 249. 
Meares, Captain John, 363. 
Medford, 138, 140, 142, 

143, 145, 146. 
Medicine Hat, 295. 

Lake, 326, 493, 494, 495. 
Meek, Joe, 85. 
Megler, 233. 
Meier, Julius, 88. 
Metlakahtla, 469, 473. 
Midway, 413, 414. 
Miette Hot Springs, 500. 
Miles Glacier, 430. 
Military camping grounds, 

217. 
post, 237. 
Mill Bridge Series, 434, 435, 

436. 
Miller, Joaquin, 138. 
Mining and minerals, 252, 

420, 470, 471, 475, 482, 

484. 
Mirror Lake, 450. 
Mission Junction, 305, 308, 

309, 311, 404, 405. 
Missions, Methodist, 81, 84, 

86, 101, 127, 254. 
Roman Catholic, 84, 86, 

254, 504-7. 
Money, 25, 254-5, 319-20. 
Monroe, Hugh, 268. 
Montana, 424. 
Monument Expedition, 214- 

15. 
Moose Lake, 490. 
Moowich Glacier, 217, 224. 
Moraine Lake, 449, 450. 
Moresby Island, 475. 
Motor-boating and yachting, 

47-8. 
Motorways, 18-25, 131, 139, 

146, 153-4, 156, 180-2, 

207, 31£-9, 



Mountain flora, 129, 443. 

formation, 426-9. 
Mountaineering, 42-7, 221, 
224, 350, 451, 462, 488, 
489. 
record, 431. 
Mountainous archipelago, 

472-475. 
Mounted Police, Royal 
North-West, 371, 424, 
454, 458, 464. 
Mt. Abbott, 430. 

Adams, 78, 90, 93, 94, 97, 

101, 186, 234, 279. 
Ashland, 143. 
Assiniboine, 352. 
Aylmer, 456. 

Baker, 160, 175, 201, 

203-8, 234, 404. 
Baldy, 231. 
Ball, 440. 
Begbie, 414, 416. 
Brazeau, 493. 
Bryce, 452. 
Burgess, 445. 
Cavell, 352, 492, 493. 
Chancellor, 441. 
Che-am, 405. 
Cheops, 430, 433. 
Cleveland, 286. 
Cloudcap, 152. 
Coffin, 119. 
Columbia, 352, 452. 
Edith, 451, 453, 456, 460. 
Field, 445. 

Geikie, 352, 489, 491. 
Gleason, 439. 
Goodsir, 441. 
Grinnell, 285, 286. 
Hood, 77, 79, 89-95, 97, 

102, 104, 238, 239, 278. 
Illecillewaet, 431, 433. 
Jackson, 280. 
Jefferson, 78, 104, 131. 
Lefroy, 449, 451. 
Lyell, 452. 

Macdonald, 480, 437. 
Olympus, 179. 
Pilchuk, 190. 

Pitt, 154, 



INDEX 



523 



Rainier, 78, 119, 160, 175, 

201, 210-16, 220, 223, 

234, 239. 
Resplendent, 488, 489, 

490. 
Revelstoke, 314, 414. 
Robson, 309, 352, 488, 490. 
Robson Park, 305, 308, 

309, 492. 
Rundle, 460, 461. 
Shasta, 353. 
Shuksan, 208. 
Sir Donald, 350, 417, 430- 

3, 441. 
Sir Robert, 480. 
Sir Sand ford, 353, 433. 
Siyeh, 284. 
Spokane, 257, 262. 
Stephen, 441, 442, 444. 
Stimson, 279. 
St. Helens, 78, 90, 94, 233, 

234, 239, 278. 
St. Piran, 450. 
Sulphur, 453, 456, 462. 
Temple, 449, 451. 
Vaux, 441. 

Washington, 104, 137. 
Whitehorn, 488, 489. 
Whitney, 216. 
Muir, John, 225. 
Multnomah County Library, 

71-2. 
Creek, 92. 
Falls, 88, 92. 
Nation, 94. 
Murphy, Mrs. Arthur, 501. 

Naden Harbor, 474. 
Nakimu Caves, 433. 
Narada Falls, 218. 
Nass River, 470. 
National Forest, 134. 

Park, 145-152. 

Highway, 263. 
Natural gas, 464. 
Navy Yard, Bremerton, 

174-5. 
Nelson, 413, 419, 420. 
New Caledonia, 368, 370, 
485. 



Hazelton, 483. 

Market, 227. 

Massett, 474. 

Metlakahtla, 469-70. 

Westminster, 317, 318, 
376-8, 406. 
Newport, 132. 
Newspapers, 135-7, 169. 
Nicola Valley, 317. 
Nisqually Glacier, 221, 222, 
223 225 

River, 218, 222, 227. 
Noocksacks, 204. 
North Alberta, 305. 

American Cordillera, 425. 

Bend, 407. 

Yakima, 106, 186, 187, 188, 
239, 240. 
Northwest Company, 243, 
254, 300, 366, 408. 

Territories, 371. 

Observatory Inlet, 306, 307, 

311, 469, 470, 471. 
O'Hara, Colonel, 447. 

Lake, 446, 447. 
Oil wells, 463. 

Okanagan Lake, 305, 322, 
405, 411-6. 
Valley, 316, 322. 
Okanogan Highlands, 235, 
241. 
River, 243. 
"Old Cariboo Trail," 316, 
317. 
Fort George, 485-7. 
Man River, 424. 
Olympia, 227-9. 
Olympic Highway, 178, 229. 
Mountains, 221, 231. 
Peninsula, 174-84, 229. 
Ore deposits; copper, 420, 
471, 475, 482. 
gold, 470. 
iron, 475. 

lead, 255, 261, 420, 471. 
silver, 420, 471. 
smelters, 418, 420, 470, 482, 
Oregon, Agricultural Col- 
lege, 132. 



524. 



INDEX 



Caves, 139-42. 

Central, 103-6, 137. 

City, 80, 83, 84, 127, 

135-6. 
Eastern, 106-26. 
gold harvest, 143. 
Historical Society, 70, 86, 

135. 
Institute, 127. 
organization civil govern- 
ment, 84. 
Pioneer Association, 85. 
State constitution adopt- 
ed, 128. 
Territory of, 62 9 228. 
trail, 100. 

University of, 135, 136, 
137. 
Oregonian, 137. 
Orient, gateway of, 164. 
Ottertail Range, 440, 441, 

445. 
Outram, Sir James, 350, 

352, 353, 451, 452. 
Oyster grounds, 228, 232. 



Pacific Fur Company, 120-1. 
Highway, 137, 143, 165, 

208, 229, 234, 318. 
Palmer, Howard, 432. 
Palouse Highway, 252. 

wheat plains, 242. 
Panther River, 451. 
Paradise Glacier, 223, 225. 
River, 224. 
Valley, 218, 219, 220, 224, 

225, 226, 449. 
Parkgate, 492, 500. 
Pasco, 241. 
Passports, 302. 
Pelican Bay, 153, 154. 
Pend d'Oreille River, 261, 

262, 263. 
Pendleton, 107-113. 
Penticton, 305, 316, 322, 405, 

411, 412, 413. 
Perez, Juan, 56, 363, 364, 

472. 
Phillips, Donald, 352. 



Pickett, Captain, 203. 
Piegan Pass, 284. 
Pillar Rock, 120. 
Pioneers, 161-2, 214-5, 227, 

350-3. 
Pipestone River, 451. 
Pittsburgh Landing, 103. 
Point Loma, 132. 
Polk, President James K., 62. 
Population, 67, 128, 134, 
139, 163, 241, 463, 468, 
470, 473, 504, 509-14. 
Port Alberni, 397, 398. 

Angeles, 179, 180, 229. 

Arthur, 295, 296, 299, 300. 

Essington, 479. 

McNicoll, 292, 299. 

Orford, 133, 134. 

Simpson, 470. 

Townsend, 178, 180, 200. 
Portland, 66-86, 87-126, 
132, 136, 234, 237. 

Canal, 296, 307, 311, 469, 
471. 

Centennial Exposition, 67, 
73. 

City Park, 74. 

Forestry Building, 73. 

Multnomah County Li- 
brary, 71-2. 

Pacific terminal, 68. 

population, 67. 

School of Law and Medi- 
cine, 135. 
Postage, 321. 
Powell River, 307. 
Prairies, 463-4. 
President Mountain, 445. 
Products, 35-7. 
Prospectors, 268, 409. 
Priest River, 103. 
Prince George, 485, 487. 

Rupert, 296, 297, 303, 
306-9, 323, 466-72, 475- 
87. 

drydocks, 468. 

harbor, 468. 

land speculation, 467-8. 

settling of, 466-7. 
Princeton, 317, 322, 405, 



INDEX 



525 



Provincial University, 376, 

501. 
Provisional Government, 61. 
Ptarmigan Valley, 451. 
Publicity commissioner, 314. 
Puget, Lieutenant Peter, 57. 
Sound, 160, 161, 167, 177, 

186, 189, 209-29, 369. 
Purcell Range, 354, 425, 

433, 439. 

Quadra, Commander, 56, 

363, 364. 
Qualicum, 345, 396. 
Queen Charlotte Islands, 
307, 311, 323, 370, 472-5. 
Sound, 384. 

" Victoria Indians," 301. 
Quiniault River, 231. 

Radisson, Pierre, 366. 
Rail transportation, 1-4. 
Railroad connections, 119, 

126, 127, 160, 182-4, 

199, 251, 260, 264-5, 

386-7. 
fares, 296-8. 
first, 249. 
Rainier, Rear Admiral, 211. 
Rainier National Forest, 

216-217, 220. 
Park, 216-27. 
Routes to, 217-27. 
Rearguard Mountain, 489. 
Red River country, 368. 
Revelstoke, 295, 304, 305, 

309-11, 314, 316, 403- 

24, 425-37. 
Riparia, 251, 252. 
Rising Wolf Mountain, 268. 
River of the West, 235. 
Roche a Perdrix, 501. 
Rochers D^boules, 482. 
Rock accumulation, 93-4. 
Rockies, chronology of, 

268-71. 
Rocky Canyon, 494, 496-9. 
Mountains, 235, 245, 264, 

267, 268, 278, 308, 309, 

321, 351, 421-9. 



Park, 315, 455, 492. 

Roger's Mountain, 430. 
Pass, 403, 437. 

Rogue River, 134. 
Valley, 142-7. 

Rooster Rock, 91. 

Roseburg, 138, 139. 

Rosslands, 418, 419, 420. 

Ross Peak, 430. 

"Round-up," 108, 110-113, 
175, 252, 361. 

Routes, 15-17, 145-7, 156, 
184-8, 189, 217-27, 228- 
9, 294-302. 

Royal Engineers, 406. 
North- West Mounted Po- 
lice, 371, 424, 454, 458, 
464. 

Rundel Mountain, 456, 457. 

Rupert, Prince, 366. 

Russian settlements, 419. 

Saanich Inlet Drive, 319. 
Sacajawea, Statue of, 74-5. 

story of, 75-6. 
Sacred fire, legend of, 93-4. 
Saddleback Mountain, 449. 
Salem, 127-132, 134. 

population, 128. 

State House, 128. 

Willamette University, 
128. 
Sand Point, 263, 264. 
San Francisco, 132, 133, 137, 

317. 
San Juan Islands, 199-203. 
Saskatchewan, 371. 

River, 325, 452. 
Saskatoon, 295, 296. 
Sault Ste. Marie, 299. 
Sawback Lakes, 451. 
Scenic, 192. 
Schickulash Pete, 230. 
School, first, 236. 
Schultz, J. W., 269-70. 
•Scott, Lieut.-General Win- 
field, 203. 

Peak, 152. 
Seattle, 160-75, 178, 186, 
216, 235, 253, 296. 



INDEX 



shipping, 164, 166-7. 

State University, 171-2. 

typography of, 164. 
Seining grounds, 119. 
Selkirk Divide, 433. 

Lord, 368. 
Selkirks, 321, 322, 350, 353, 
354-5, 404, 408, 425-38. 
Sentinel Pass, 450. 
Seven Sisters, 480. 
Shasta, 152. 

Shaughnessy, Baron, 412. 
Shawnigan Lake, 319. 
Sheep, 338, 339, 423. 
Sheridan, Philip Henry, 101, 

228, 237. 
Sherman Peak, 207. 
Shoshone, Idaho, 420. 
Shovel Pass, 495-6. 
Shuswap Lake, 410. 

River, 411. 
Sicamous, 295, 304, 305, 316, 

410, 411, 413. 
Silver King Mine, 420. 
Simpson Pass, 462. 

River, 440. 

Sir George, 300, 368, 369, 
452, 486. 
Six Mile Creek, 437. 
Skagits, 204, 208. 
Skagway, 306, 312, 472. 
Skeena River, 309, 317, 428, 

470, 476-9, 481. 
Skidegate Channel, 472, 475. 
Skins, treatment of, 503-4. 
Skohomish Valley, 177. 
Smelters, ore, 418, 420, 470, 

482. 
de Smet, Father, 268. 
Smith, Donald, 414. 
Snake River, 103, 117, 118, 
188, 241, 243, 251, 252. 

Falls, 420. 
Snohomish, 191, 192. 
Snoqualmie, 192. 

Falls, 173. 

River, 173. 
Sockeye, 478. 
Soda Creek, 485. 
Sodaville, 131. 



Sooke Harbor, 319. 
Soto, Hernando, 54. 
Spanaway Lake, 217. 
Spatsum, 48. 
Spectator, 135-6, 137. 
Spence's Bridge, 408. 
Sperry, Dr. Lyman B., 270- 
1, 273. 
Glacier, 273, 279, 280. 
Spokane, 188, 238, 241, 252- 
65. 
Falls, 173. 
fire of '89, 255. 
Interstate Fair, 256. 
River, 243, 254, 258, 260. 
Sports, 37-53, 337-350. 
Spray Lakes, 462. 

Pass, 462. 
Spuzzum, 406, 407. 
Stage robbery, 110. 
State Journal, 136. 
State Normal School, 135, 
206, 252. 
University, Washington, 
171-2. 
Steamer transportation, 4-6, 
98-101, 118, 127, 133, 
160, 177-8, 183-4, 199, 
232, 238, 251, 260, 307, 
386-7. 
Steel, W. G., 150. 
Stehekin, 197, 198, 199. 
Stephen's Glacier, 442, 447. 
Steptoe Butte, 252. 

Colonel, 248, 252-3. 
Stevens, General Hazard, 
221. 
Governor Isaac, 63, 227- 
8, 230. 
Stewart, 469, 471. 
Stikine River, 306, 313, 338, 

428, 471, 472. 
Stock raising, 408. 
Stony Squaw Mountain, 456. 
Storm King Mountain, 417. 
Strathcona, Lord, 319, 414. 
St. Mary Lakes, 268, 269, 

273, 275, 279. 
Stuart Lake, 486. 
River, 486. 



INDEX 



527 



Sun Dance Canyon, 460. 
Sunset Highway, 174, 259. 



Tache, Bishop, 506. 
Taconia, City of, 211-4, 216, 
217, 235. 

Mount, 210-1. 
Takakkaw Cascade, 443-4. 
Talomeco, 54. 
Tatoosh Range, 226. 
Telegraph Creek, B. C, 306, 

313, 317, 471, 482. 
Telkwa River, 484. 
Temperature, 96, 144-5. 
Territory of Columbia, 228. 
Tete Jaime Cache, 487, 490, 

491. 
Thibault, Father, 505. 
Thlinget Pole, 166. 
Thompson, David, 243, 408, 
439. 

River, 370, 408. 

Canyon, 403, 408. 
Three Sisters, 104, 131, 137. 
Timber, 96, 134, 230, 258, 

475. 
Toronto, 291, 293, 296, 297. 
Totem poles, 384-5, 473-5, 

481. 
Tourist Bureaux, 17, 313-4. 

towns and resorts, 509-14. 

Alberta, 514. 

British Columbia, 512. 

Idaho, 512. 

Montana, 512. 

Oregon, 509-10. 

Washington, 510-2. 

trains, 296, 297. 
Tours, 308-13. 
Tower of Babel, 450. 
Townsites, Government, sale 

of, 180. 
Tracy the Outlaw, 128-9. 
Trading posts, 253-4, 258. 
"Tragedy of Mt. Lefroy," 

451. 
Trails, 450, 451, 452, 462. 
Trans-Pacific steamers, 14- 
5, 307. 



Transportation, 1-6, 294- 

302. 
Trappers, 84, 263. 
Travel Bureaux, 89, 95, 168, 

257. 
Treaties, Indian, 63. 
Treaty Payment, 301. 
Tumbling Glacier, 489. 
Tumwater, 227, 229. 
Tunnel Mountain, 454, 456, 

457, 459, 460. 
Tupper Mountain, 437. 
Turtle Mountain, 423. 
Tyler, John, 246. 

Umatilla, 107, 110, 116. 

Reservation, 113. 
Umpqua River, 132, 138. 
Upper Fraser River, 406, 

485. 

Valley of Ten Peaks, 450. 
Vancouver, 80, 236-8, 244, 
291, 295-7, 305-9, 323, 
373-87, 403-24. 
Barracks, 237. 
Captain George, 57, 59, 
175, 179, 189, 235, 363- 
5, 387, 473. 
Fort, 61, 235, 236, 244, 

247. 
Island, 201, 202, 305, 308, 

387-8. 
Provincial University, 

376. 
Van Home Mountain, 441, 

445. 
Van Trump Park, 219, 221, 
226. 
P. B., 221, 224. 
Vaughn, Hank, 108-110. 
Vaux, George, Jr., 431. 
Mary, 431. 
William, 431. 
Vegetables, 129, 241-2. 
Vermilion Lakes, 440, 457. 
Pass, 440. 
River, 440. 
Vice President Mountain, 445. 
Victor Rock, 149. 



528 



INDEX 



Victoria, 396, 306, 308, 318, 
323, 369, 388-94. 

Beacon Park, 389. 

Glacier, 448, 449, 451. 

Parliament buildings, 388. 

Provincial Museum, 391-3. 
Villard, Henry, 64. 
Virgin Graces, 137. 

Waiilatpu Mission, 245-248. 
Wallace Prairie, 127. 
Walla Walla, 106, 110, 113, 
115, 188. 

City, 248. 

Fort, 244, 248, 250. 

River, 243, 245. 

Valley, 244, 247, 249. 
Wallowa, 250. 

Lake, 250. 

Valley, 114, 115, 250. 
Wallula, 243-9. 
War Department, 254. 

of 1812, 254. 

of 1855-6, 248. 
Washington, 235. 

Eastern, 243-61. 

George, 228. 

Good Roads Association, 
240. 

Northern, 189-209. 

Territory, 63, 227, 228. 
Waterton Lake National 
Park, 345. 

Lakes 424. 
Wenatchee, 192, 193, 194. 
Wenkchemna Lake, 450. 

Pass 450. 
West Robson, 413, 418, 419. 
Whales, 231-2. 
Wheat acreage, 107, 241-2. 
Wheeler, A. O., 434. 
Whidbey Island, 189, 190, 

191, 200. 
White Glacier, 221, 223. 

Headed Eagle, 341. 

Horse, 312. 



Pass, 312. 

River, 221, 223. 

Salmon River, 238, 239. 
Whitman College, 250. 

Marcus, 61, 62, 244-7. 

Narcissa, 245, 247. 
Wilcox, W. D., 350, 450. 
Wild fowl and game, 339, 

343, 475. 
Willamette River, 68, 84, 
131, 132, 134-6, 235. 

"Settlement," 61. 

University of, 128. 

Valley, 129-31, 152, 236, 
369. 
Willapa Harbor, 232, 233. 
Williams Creek, 409. 
Willis Glacier, 224. 
Windermere Lake, 153, 156. 

Valley, 438-41. 
Winnipeg, 293, 294, 295, 296, 

297, 300, 303, 304, 368. 
Winter sports, 47-9. 
Wrangell, 306, 312, 313, 472. 

Baron, 369. 
Wright, Colonel George, 
253. 

Yachting and motor-boat- 
ing, 47-8. 
Yakima Valley, £38, 239. 
Yale, 406. 
Yellowhead, 490, 491, 492. 

Pass, 489, 490, 492. 
Yellowstone, 195, 263. 
Yeon, John, 89. 
Yoho Glacier, 444. 

Pass, 445. 

River, 443. 

Valley, 328, 351, 442, 445. 
Yosemite Falls, 92, 195, 280. 
Yukon River, 90, 312. 

Territory, 253, 317, 370, 
371, 409, 472, 482. 

Zinc, 420. 




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